Thank you! I really appreciated your showing the tools at the start. This really helped! Just finished replacing on my 2016 w/ ~55k mi. I found I had to lower the engine to bolt the mount to the frame because of the piece that attaches to the motor has a part that sticks down into the motor was resting on the motor keeping the mount from sitting right, and it wasn't practical to hold the engine while I put the mount in place. So just lowering the engine back just a bit made it a lot easier, then raised it back up to attach the motor.
Thanks for the video. The Oem repair manual says to evacuate the AC system, remove the low side hose, I followed the steps on here and was much easier.
That's awesome. Glad this helped. Having to open the AC line was my big concern when I started this and was really happy when I found out I could leave it alone.
Great detailed vid! I'm looking to replace all my engine mounts before they go bad. Also thought the same thing when I seen the pully and belt placement. Seems impossible to get off. If you do replace them please upload a video.
Did they improve the mounts on the LCI’s? I don’t have to do this yet, but for everyone else viewing. Make sure to add the Powerflex engine mount inserts.
hi how are things ? First I have to congratulate you on the video, it's very good. I also wanted to ask you if you know how long the wrench is for the screw that goes under the plastic that you had to cut. thank you so much
Great job sir 👍 , how many engine mounts in bmw X1 2017 , 1500cc. ????? And if you start the engine and you feel light vibration , plz you tell me which mount is colaps , crack or faulty !!!!! ??????..
I have the 2.0L and it has two mounts and a link: right top engine, left transmission mount and a torque bar. When I started the car it often had a very noticeable vibration. The right top mount is the easiest to see so I'd start with that one. I had large tears at the rubber so look for that. If you can jack up the engine (not the car) A LITTLE you will be able to see if the top mount is broken as it will come up a lot (at least 2"). Don't jack it up too much as you could damage a good mount. In the video, 3:10 should the mount fully collapsed and 4:47 shows how much it moved when I jacked the engine up.
Can you do a video for the transmission mount please? Cant find any guidance for that one at all. I tried going from the top and it wasnt possible. I think I'll need to access from bottom or wheel well?
I can't say for sure. I think if you remove the washer fluid bottle, after pulling the liner you would be able to get to the sensor on the passenger side.
I purchased an Anchor 10139 from Rock Auto for around $70 shipped. Since the factory one didn't last that long I didn't see a justification to use OEM part. 10K miles later and it's still fine.
I didn't. The balancer was OK and the belt is still fine. Someone below in the comments mentioned using a bar to remove the tensioner and they could get the belt on.
@@shawnbarge1734thanks man. By the way have you had the chance to mess around with any of these: transmission oil change, rear differential oil change, gearbox change, control arm change or bushing, front crank seal change, valve cover gasket or cover change?
I didn't take a hard look at the two parts side by side to see if there were any minor differences. The old one was pretty destroyed also. Overall, they looked exactly the same but I didn't think to look for an alternate.
Remove the underbelly splash shield, get a jack and jack the engine up. Watch the side mount and see how much up it moves. My engine lifted at least 1" inside the mount and I could see the torn rubber on the bottom.
We should class action lawsuit for cheap and weakness design against bmw. Who can explain WHY SOME MODELS IN COMPLEX MARKETS COMES WITH A SHIELD protection against engine heart who happens to be this engine mount killer.
@@shawnbarge1734 To change the belt you can pull down on the old one to get the tensioner to wind back, then you can slip a small hex key to hold it. The BMW way I've read involves removing the mount you replaced and jacking up the engine to get access to the tensioner bolts
Hi, I did one recently, managed to slip a flat spanner onto tensioner from top, very awkward but possible, then using a spanner extender I managed to get enough leverage to release tension and slip belt off. Obviously still needed bottom and wheel arch access to remove belt and refit, again refit from top sliding onto alternator last.
Thank you! I really appreciated your showing the tools at the start. This really helped! Just finished replacing on my 2016 w/ ~55k mi. I found I had to lower the engine to bolt the mount to the frame because of the piece that attaches to the motor has a part that sticks down into the motor was resting on the motor keeping the mount from sitting right, and it wasn't practical to hold the engine while I put the mount in place. So just lowering the engine back just a bit made it a lot easier, then raised it back up to attach the motor.
Thanks for the video. The Oem repair manual says to evacuate the AC system, remove the low side hose, I followed the steps on here and was much easier.
That's awesome. Glad this helped. Having to open the AC line was my big concern when I started this and was really happy when I found out I could leave it alone.
Great detailed vid! I'm looking to replace all my engine mounts before they go bad. Also thought the same thing when I seen the pully and belt placement. Seems impossible to get off. If you do replace them please upload a video.
I made my own special tool. Took a longer 19mm box wrench, heated the closed end and bent it.
Did they improve the mounts on the LCI’s? I don’t have to do this yet, but for everyone else viewing. Make sure to add the Powerflex engine mount inserts.
Ooooh I see this is out of my league she'll be going in the shop so I don't tare ish up😂😂😂. In all seriousness, Great video. Thank you for posting.
hi how are things ? First I have to congratulate you on the video, it's very good. I also wanted to ask you if you know how long the wrench is for the screw that goes under the plastic that you had to cut. thank you so much
Are you asking about the 8mm wrench used around 16 min into the video? That was 4.25" long.
Yes, that same one, can it be a 16 e-torx?
@@shawnbarge1734 I see that it is an e-torx screw but I don't know how big it is, so at first glance it looks like a 16 e-torx
The wrench I used was a 12 point box end and I don't remember any difficulty. I'll see if I can get a look at in soon on the car.
And is the 12-point one worth it? The screws in my car are 6-point, well maybe you are right and the 12-point wrench works
Great job sir 👍 , how many engine mounts in bmw X1 2017 , 1500cc. ????? And if you start the engine and you feel light vibration , plz you tell me which mount is colaps , crack or faulty !!!!! ??????..
I have the 2.0L and it has two mounts and a link: right top engine, left transmission mount and a torque bar. When I started the car it often had a very noticeable vibration. The right top mount is the easiest to see so I'd start with that one. I had large tears at the rubber so look for that. If you can jack up the engine (not the car) A LITTLE you will be able to see if the top mount is broken as it will come up a lot (at least 2"). Don't jack it up too much as you could damage a good mount. In the video, 3:10 should the mount fully collapsed and 4:47 shows how much it moved when I jacked the engine up.
Can you do a video for the transmission mount please? Cant find any guidance for that one at all. I tried going from the top and it wasnt possible. I think I'll need to access from bottom or wheel well?
I don't have access to the car right now. I think the best access will be from the bottom.
This is random but do you think you could get to the parking sensors in the bumper after removing that cover?
I can't say for sure. I think if you remove the washer fluid bottle, after pulling the liner you would be able to get to the sensor on the passenger side.
Could you include the part numbers, source, and cost? I am seeing a varying difference in price.
I purchased an Anchor 10139 from Rock Auto for around $70 shipped. Since the factory one didn't last that long I didn't see a justification to use OEM part. 10K miles later and it's still fine.
@@shawnbarge1734 Excellent, thank you so much.
@@shawnbarge1734 second question, what did you do to replace the broken wheel well clips?
Did you manage to change the tensioner or the belt without taking of the mount?
I have not needed to change the belt yet so still don't know what is needed to remove it.
Do you know the BMW part number for those black plastic fender rivets?
I think it's 07147293278. The ones I found on ebay by searching "plastic fender rivet x1".
how many miles did the car had before the mount failure?
61,000 miles
Mine is around 45k, was told by the dealer recently and the amount they want to change is like $1500.
Hi did you figure out how to remove the balancer and release the tensioner?
I didn't. The balancer was OK and the belt is still fine. Someone below in the comments mentioned using a bar to remove the tensioner and they could get the belt on.
@@shawnbarge1734 thanks and did you ever replace the bolts? They still holding up fine? Haha
Everything has been holding up great. No issues with the bolts!
@@shawnbarge1734thanks man. By the way have you had the chance to mess around with any of these: transmission oil change, rear differential oil change, gearbox change, control arm change or bushing, front crank seal change, valve cover gasket or cover change?
No, so far I've been really lucky with no oil leaks and haven't put enough miles for the trans. I need to check the miles. I think I'm close to 60k.
Great vid. How long did it take you?
I think it took around 4 hours. Doing it a 2nd time I think 3 hours.
Anyone know if this is the same for the Countryman?
Also did you get a mount that was updated, did they update it? Need one @ 50k 😁
I didn't take a hard look at the two parts side by side to see if there were any minor differences. The old one was pretty destroyed also. Overall, they looked exactly the same but I didn't think to look for an alternate.
Hello,
How to check this motor mount is bad?
Remove the underbelly splash shield, get a jack and jack the engine up. Watch the side mount and see how much up it moves. My engine lifted at least 1" inside the mount and I could see the torn rubber on the bottom.
We should class action lawsuit for cheap and weakness design against bmw.
Who can explain WHY SOME MODELS IN COMPLEX MARKETS COMES WITH A SHIELD protection against engine heart who happens to be this engine mount killer.
German over engineered to fail so bmw can get more money from us.😂😂😂
Is that yeti eb165?
Haha. Good eye. It's a SB5.5.
I did the belt have to get it from underneath
That's great to know. Did you need any special tool and do you remember where the belt tensioner was? What belt tension tool did you use?
@@shawnbarge1734 To change the belt you can pull down on the old one to get the tensioner to wind back, then you can slip a small hex key to hold it. The BMW way I've read involves removing the mount you replaced and jacking up the engine to get access to the tensioner bolts
@annanowik8764 Thanks, that makes sense to load the belt then lock the tensioner. This will save me a lot of time when I need to change it.
Hi, I did one recently, managed to slip a flat spanner onto tensioner from top, very awkward but possible, then using a spanner extender I managed to get enough leverage to release tension and slip belt off. Obviously still needed bottom and wheel arch access to remove belt and refit, again refit from top sliding onto alternator last.
Bolts should not be reused. They are one-time use and need to be replaced.
Really? The motor mount bolts are torque to yield? That seems unnecessary of BMW. Good to know, thanks.