when you torque the plug in the steerer without fitting the stem, doesn't this balloon out, expand the top of the steer tube as it does not have the stems internal diameter to work against as a limit.
Finally! I have an ENVE fork on my Lynskey and I could not get the headset to tighten down when reassembling it... I didn't notice that 6mm hex inside and spent a couple of frustrated hours before finding this video.
Fantastic video, thanks! I had a loose headset which I couldn't tighten and the problem turned out being the compression plug wasn't done up enough. 3:46 and an instant fix :D :D
Really Helped me out watching this, never used a compression plug before so wasn't sure how to fit it, so after trying a few times that resulted in epic fails everytime, i searched n found this video, thank you so much guys!!! My Bike is all good running sweet with new forks thanks to you lot!!!
@@ethansloss6854how do you expect to install it properly, ie that pressure applied by the stem bolts is being resisted by compression plug when the top bolt is higher than the top of the plug?
just make sure to tighten a bit below max indicated torque, and to leave the steerer at least at the same stack height the stem is at, if not longer. that means you'll use a 3 or 5mm spacer above the stem. if you don't do that (leaving the steerer shorter than the stack height of the stem) then the clamping force of the stem will eventually fray the edge of the fork steerer.
Usually how much is the tensile torque (N/m) setting for the headset expander compression plug (by using torque wrench) if i installed in an aluminum fork tube? Thanks..
I was working on my bike and noticed the bulging you are talking about. I didn't crack my steerer tube, at least I can't see any damage. But what I did find out, was that they sell longer compression plugs that will give you better compression with out having to over tighten and create a bulge. Other alternative Alloy steerer carbon fork. but weight weenies don't like that solution.
That's right. Always check first before tightening anything up more than you found it! The expander plug on my Specialized bike needs to go up to 9Nm. It's all dependant upon the design of the plug. Top cap torque is way below. Small screwdriver tight at most. That's less than 2Nm. Since I like to know I checked it out and found that by hand I was using about 2.4 Nm on my top cap using a 'spinner' driver. I've knocked this back to less than 2Nm without any problems to Canyon/Easton's recommendation of 1.6Nm for carbon steerer tubes now that I've got a torque wrench accurate enough at such low torques.
my problem is i take top cap off . them the compression plug comes out with this huge bolt that's in the fork can you please explain that to me and how to reinstalled the fork
I've heard from experts that using a compression plug that short is a bad idea because it can cause the steerer tube to break right under the stem even easier. I always buy plugs of at least 60mm in length. If you think the few grams saving you are going to get will provide enough security then be my guest and use one but I don't trust the bike industry knows as much as they put on.
There is only 1 bolt, the top cap bolt, and this is not used to install the plug. Remove the bolt from the plug and you will see that there is a larger hex key indent machined into the plug (takes a 6mm hex, compared to a 4mm for the bolt). Use the 6mm hex to install the plug, then install the stem and spacers, and finish the top cap with the bolt.
Beau Valera so the carbon steer tube doesn't crack/split/explode from over-tightening, hence the torque wrench for exact tensioning on the compression plug
Wrong. By tightening one bolt, you reduce the torque that's currently on the other bolt. So you need to alternate between the bolts before you get them both equally tight. If you do not do that, one of the bolts will have more tension on it's threads than the other, which can lead to failure or bad fitting. The torque wrench won't get it any tighter than it's set up to.
Yep this will work on a 2020 Emonda. It's worth taking note of the length of the compression plug your bike came with. On my 2020 Emonda, the plug was actually shorter than the stack height of my stem, and in addition, Trek make you run at minimum a 5 mm spacer above the stem and below the top cap. This pushes the lower stem clamping bolt below the bottom of the compression plug such that upon tightening, you're clamping the steer tube where it's not supported from within by the plug. My advice: invest in a longer compression plug to minimize failure risks.
The only torque spec I've ever seen for this is in a Canyon/Easton manual for carbon steerer tubes. This states 'manufacturer's recommended torque' or 1.6 Nm if you can't find your bike manufacturer's recommendation. That's no tighter than you could manage with a small electrical screwdriver-sized handle with a hex bit on the end. That's not very much, easily overdone with even the short end of an Allen key if you're a gorilla, so easy does it!
@@ethansloss6854 After 7 years this is the fucking correct answer. Everywhere I check I see like 5 Nm for the top cap, and this is just HORSE SHIT. Anything more than 2Nm literally does not remove any play from the headset and all it does is to start to slide the compression plug upwards.
Apart from the slightly too short compression plug used, this is spot on and by far the most comprehensive and useful video on compression plug in YT.
You must be kidding, terrible instalation
I think you may have just prevented me from wrecking my carbon steering tube!
Thank you for this really useful guide.
when you torque the plug in the steerer without fitting the stem, doesn't this balloon out, expand the top of the steer tube as it does not have the stems internal diameter to work against as a limit.
Finally! I have an ENVE fork on my Lynskey and I could not get the headset to tighten down when reassembling it... I didn't notice that 6mm hex inside and spent a couple of frustrated hours before finding this video.
Same! This video saved me so much frustration.
Great video guys! I understand how it works now!
Concise, clear, excellent video! Thanks for the professional job!
Great video, clear, concise and to the point. Thank you!
Fantastic video, thanks! I had a loose headset which I couldn't tighten and the problem turned out being the compression plug wasn't done up enough. 3:46 and an instant fix :D :D
He mentions everything in this video, great explanation
Shucks. I stripped a bolt head before coming here. At least I know for next time. Great little video. Thanks.
Really Helped me out watching this, never used a compression plug before so wasn't sure how to fit it, so after trying a few times that resulted in epic fails everytime, i searched n found this video, thank you so much guys!!! My Bike is all good running sweet with new forks thanks to you lot!!!
Good clear explanation.......maybe I'll get my local bike shop to do my rebuild!
When using a torque wrench, you're supposed to grip it at the handle to get the proper torque measurement (see the Park Tool video on this topic).
I've been troubleshooting headset play for weeks and finally fixed it with this video, much appreciated!
Really good video for anyone using a compression bung for the first time.
Do I have to use a 5MM spacer between the topcap and plug?
Excellent and very detailed video, thanks guys.
Very clear instructions - really helped me, thanks!
Excellent - really clear, never done this before and now need to install one, so really helpful
I’ve never seen one of those before. I thought it was a star fangled nut that’s used in the steerer tube.
Really clear, helpful video. Thanks!
Is it ok to use compression plug on metal tube instead of starnut??
Don't you need some steerer tube above the stem to prevent the top stem bolt from cracking the steerer?
not if you fit the compression plug properly and follow the torque specs of the stem.
@@ethansloss6854how do you expect to install it properly, ie that pressure applied by the stem bolts is being resisted by compression plug when the top bolt is higher than the top of the plug?
Good day... Was that an aluminium stem? Is the use of aluminium stems 'okay' with carbon steerers? Thanks...
just make sure to tighten a bit below max indicated torque, and to leave the steerer at least at the same stack height the stem is at, if not longer. that means you'll use a 3 or 5mm spacer above the stem. if you don't do that (leaving the steerer shorter than the stack height of the stem) then the clamping force of the stem will eventually fray the edge of the fork steerer.
THANKS...
Tutorial music is the best
I screw the top cap in and it seems to be tightening then it just gives way and loosens the compression plug... Any idea what's gone wrong?
No spacer.
Usually how much is the tensile torque (N/m) setting for the headset expander compression plug (by using torque wrench) if i installed in an aluminum fork tube? Thanks..
8nm for the torque to much?I have heard bulging of the carbon steerer fork and ending up cracking.
I was working on my bike and noticed the bulging you are talking about. I didn't crack my steerer tube, at least I can't see any damage. But what I did find out, was that they sell longer compression plugs that will give you better compression with out having to over tighten and create a bulge. Other alternative Alloy steerer carbon fork. but weight weenies don't like that solution.
+r0adhee The specific torque spec depends on the brand/model of the compression plug. It should be labeled.
That's right. Always check first before tightening anything up more than you found it! The expander plug on my Specialized bike needs to go up to 9Nm. It's all dependant upon the design of the plug. Top cap torque is way below. Small screwdriver tight at most. That's less than 2Nm. Since I like to know I checked it out and found that by hand I was using about 2.4 Nm on my top cap using a 'spinner' driver. I've knocked this back to less than 2Nm without any problems to Canyon/Easton's recommendation of 1.6Nm for carbon steerer tubes now that I've got a torque wrench accurate enough at such low torques.
Great video, thanks mate : )
Thanks alot for this vid. Very informative.
my problem is i take top cap off . them the compression plug comes out with this huge bolt that's in the fork can you please explain that to me and how to reinstalled the fork
I've heard from experts that using a compression plug that short is a bad idea because it can cause the steerer tube to break right under the stem even easier. I always buy plugs of at least 60mm in length. If you think the few grams saving you are going to get will provide enough security then be my guest and use one but I don't trust the bike industry knows as much as they put on.
Is it the same procedure for the carbon MTB fork??
Great video, thanks
"...but whatever you do, don't get grease on the sleeve." lol
Thanks for the detailed info.
I don’t understand how u have 2 bolts going down the center ?
Is the first one way far down ?
There is only 1 bolt, the top cap bolt, and this is not used to install the plug. Remove the bolt from the plug and you will see that there is a larger hex key indent machined into the plug (takes a 6mm hex, compared to a 4mm for the bolt). Use the 6mm hex to install the plug, then install the stem and spacers, and finish the top cap with the bolt.
what is the purpose of a compression plug and why is it required to have one for a carbon fiber fork?
Beau Valera so the carbon steer tube doesn't crack/split/explode from over-tightening, hence the torque wrench for exact tensioning on the compression plug
Thank you!
Thnx man you made me day :)
Better than the star spangled and reusable.
Will this work on a bmx aswell ?
Good Video
perfect. thanks
My compression plug is too large for the steerer, even though it says 1 1/8?
did you try Squeeze it a little bit?
Incorrect use of torque wrench I'm afraid choking down will affect the torque. It's all about the principal of moments!
very useful comment - NOT!
If you want to torque correctly it's a very useful comment
Wrong. By tightening one bolt, you reduce the torque that's currently on the other bolt. So you need to alternate between the bolts before you get them both equally tight. If you do not do that, one of the bolts will have more tension on it's threads than the other, which can lead to failure or bad fitting.
The torque wrench won't get it any tighter than it's set up to.
Will it work on any modern bike ie 2020 Trek Emonda?
Yep this will work on a 2020 Emonda. It's worth taking note of the length of the compression plug your bike came with. On my 2020 Emonda, the plug was actually shorter than the stack height of my stem, and in addition, Trek make you run at minimum a 5 mm spacer above the stem and below the top cap. This pushes the lower stem clamping bolt below the bottom of the compression plug such that upon tightening, you're clamping the steer tube where it's not supported from within by the plug. My advice: invest in a longer compression plug to minimize failure risks.
Is there no recommended torque value for the top cap bolt?
4nm maybe ;)
Just tight enough to stop play in the headset. It's very low torque.
The only torque spec I've ever seen for this is in a Canyon/Easton manual for carbon steerer tubes. This states 'manufacturer's recommended torque' or 1.6 Nm if you can't find your bike manufacturer's recommendation. That's no tighter than you could manage with a small electrical screwdriver-sized handle with a hex bit on the end. That's not very much, easily overdone with even the short end of an Allen key if you're a gorilla, so easy does it!
@@ethansloss6854 After 7 years this is the fucking correct answer. Everywhere I check I see like 5 Nm for the top cap, and this is just HORSE SHIT. Anything more than 2Nm literally does not remove any play from the headset and all it does is to start to slide the compression plug upwards.
That plug is to short to properly support the deflection>clamping force going through the steerer.
Cheapskates.
how do i learn about this just now. The star nut is such a shitty concept
Really bad use of torque wrench, you have just over torqued the bolts by holding the torque wrench in the wrong place.