Good video. Replicated. Put speaker correctly on adapter plate first, then attached to sprinter panel. I also took out the A pillar airbag panel to run the tweeter wire. That was easier than fishing a tape for an hour and getting lucky. Thanks for the video!
Fast method to snake speaker wire to tweeter: 1) Starting from the tweeter side, snake wire straight down to the open area under the dash (easily accessible on my 2019), 2) Find the pass through to the door using one hand on each side (you don't even need a wire snake for this, but I still removed the wire cover between the door frame and the door). This works on both sides and takes only 2 minutes. Thanks for posting this!! Sound is much better.
Great video. I think because you mounted the plastic bracket first you block the movement of the speaker. The bracket should sit behind the woofer, not in front of it.
Thanks. A 2 minute job to fix a miserable failure of Mercedes. We now enjoy the sound of our Mercedes motorhome. Will upgrade later the door speakers, but already very pleased.
Just finished upgrading my speakers. Sound is better. Deeper bass, cleaner highs, and less distortion at higher volume. Stock speakers are cheap paper cones and foam surround which won't last long. I found it was easier to feed the tweeter wire down from the dash speaker hole and reach up and grab it under the dash and feed it through the disconnected door tube. I also found that these speakers line up exactly with the door if you use the adapter to hold the speaker from the back. Added a lot of Thinsulate to the door while I had it apart. Haven't driven it yet but I expect it will cut down on the road noise based on how it sounds just closing the door.
Thank you for this video. I will be updating my 2019 as shown. Mercedes should be embarrassed by the cheap speakers and poor sound they provide for this price range. I’ve had far better systems in vehicles that cost 1/3rd the money. For base stereo I’d give them a pass, but for the top of line option with NAV and 360 cameras it’s unbelievable. Especially since MB sells many vehicles into the RV and conversion market. And who says tradespeople don’t want good quality sound given the amount of time they spend in their vehicles? This tells me MB doesn’t monitor customer feedback on the various social media’s, or they just don’t care. Come on Mercedes! It’s not 1984 anymore and I shouldn’t have to grab the Crutchfield catalog and tear my van apart, possibly voiding some warranty on the electrical “brains” of this vehicle. And 7 Recalls in the first year-half of them software-are enough!
Just finished my set up. Jbl worked great! Pulled the wire from the center speaker and wired up a jbl amp sub combo under the passenger seat. I’m going to have to open the passenger door panel and add some sound deading mat. Getting some mega rattle. And it’s actually not from the sub.
For those with a 2019 2500...the center speaker seems to be already redesigned to eliminate music. The center speaker only had one set of wires, and they seem to be for only the MBZ Roadside calls.
@Andy Vo Fair enough! I too am suffering along with the most basic system, but wasn't getting music out of that center channel. Or perhaps, mine is just their sub-basic system ;). Regardless, I didn't need to replace or disable the center speaker.
@Andy Vo Can you provide more info on this firmware fix? We have a 2020 Sprinter with the MBUX 10" display, and my dealer says there isn't anything available. Thank you!
Thanks for the video - I'd leave the stock tweeters in, forget a crossover (it's just going to minimize highs from the "bass" speaker, which it can't really reproduce anyway), and find some way to baffle the driver. These doors buzz with bass vibration and color the sound in a bad way. car. Baffles are cheap and can really help with plastics.
Great video, very informative, thanks for walking us through the steps to make the stereo sound better. I disconnected the center speaker, wow what a difference!
2020 Sprinter - thanks for the video, just disconnecting the center speaker made a big difference. Ordering my speakers next. Is it possible to connect to the front door speakers and add rear speakers? Thanks again!!
Finished the install last weekend on my 2020 Sprinter. It was a immediate noticeable upgrade. A couple of tips I learned from the process, when putting the door panel back on start at the inside of the door on the bottom and work your way up and over to the outside of the door (keeps the pins set in place, I figured that out somewhere around the fourth attempt). I also used bailing wire rather than a traditional fish tape to pull the tweeter wires. Once the tweeter is out you can see daylight from the underside of the dash and easily pull the rigid smaller wire into the bottom of the hole. Thanks again for the great video.
Hi Thanks for posting this it sounds way better. You posted in the video that disconnecting the front speaker disconnects the SOS system. Can you clarify. Great Videos.
I was told by someone that this would disconnect the SOS system, but I accidentally hit the SOS button a few days ago and it made the call to Mercedes. I’d check it out yourself to be sure.
Nice walkthrough...I needed the panel removal portion, and now I'm headed over to Amazon to buy the speakers! However, I missed the link for the connectors here and on your site...is it listed anywhere?
Thanks for the great video--Your explanations are quite clear. I disconnected the center speaker wire and it has made a world of difference. Much, much better sound. By chance have you looked at changing out the XM-radio antenna? I would like to cover the entire roof with solar panels and the antenna is in the way. With much effort, I was able to get to the back of the MBUX head unit and found the green Fakra Plug but plugging in a couple of different XM-radio antennas is not working. Wonder if that coxial cable with the Fakra plug is for both GPS and XM-radio. Read somewhere awhile back that the XM-radio connection is under the driver's seat along with the fuse panels but that seems odd.
Do you recommend disconnecting the battery while changing out the speakers? Just wondering if there's risk of damaging the head unit or other electronics (w/ battery connected).
I’ve been looking for this. I had already disconnected the center speaker but definitely want to upgrade my other speakers. Do you have a link to the little connectors you got in that package you mentioned that fit the crossover/etc, thanks again!
You noted the SOS feature is disconnected after disconnecting the center speaker but phone will still work. Have you tested the SOS after this mod? Can you hear and be heard in case this system is activated?
You can do that if you are using door speakers that have the tweeters built in. You would then just disconnect the tweeters in the dash. You are correct that this would be an easier install. I used component speakers with a crossover. In this case you need new wires from the crossover to the dash tweeters.
Very nice informative video! My question is: do you know if the factory unit already has a crossover? If the factory unit already has a crossover to send high frequency to the tweeter and mid/low frequency to the woofer in the door, wouldn't you only be getting mid/low from the wire powering the factory woofer? When you use that wire as a source for both of your JBL woofer and tweeter, wouldn't you be still missing the high frequency? I guess the bottomline is does it sound better after your upgrade. Or if you dial up your high frequency in your head unit's equalizer, can you tell from the sound? Thanks ahead for your comment. I am considering upgrading the factory speakers for my 2019
I'm not an expert on this, but what you're saying makes sense. I followed the recommendation of another van builder on my speaker install. It is a big improvement over the stock speakers, and sounds pretty good for the money spent. On my next van build, I will go with separate woofers and tweeters, and just use the stock speaker wire. I think this will sound just as good, but eliminate the need for the crossover and the hassle of running new wires. Good luck!
@@OurThrivingLife Thanks for the quick reply. I really appreciate it. There are so little information I can find regarding this. Your input helps! I have a radio only option on my 2019 and I already swapped it out with an Alpine Halo so I can have Apple Car Play etc. But the sound still pretty bad. So I am thinking of ways to improve on my own. Mine is also a passenger van. So I have 3 pairs of factory woofers and tweeters to contemplate with...... :). I may give Clutchfield a call. I really don't want to re-wire the whole length of the van including the sliding door : ). Thanks again!
Great video. thanks for posting!... Quick question: Since originally there are separate Woofer and Tweeter, is there an external Crossover? Or is the MBUX (head unit) driving them with separate wires (with an internal crossover)? Basically, I'm trying to understand which wires from the MBUX are connected to the new Crossover. Presumably that connection is full-range, and the spilt into Low-Range and Hi-Range at the Crossover.
@@OurThrivingLife OK... But that means that the set of wires going into the external Crossover must carry a full-range (frequency) signal and not just the low-pass filter signal intended for the original Woofer. Basically, the original setup is also "Component" (separate Woofer & Tweeter), so the signal going to the original Woofer does not have the "higher frequency" content that's intended for the Tweeter, and vice-versa. BTW, I presume that you fed the external Crossover with the wires that were intended for the Woofer, is that right?... If so, I'd expect you're missing some high-frequency content, unless you re-configured the MBUX to send a full-range signal to that output... basically bypassing the internal crossover. Does that make sense?
@@hookem7060 Makes sense, but I’m no expert and not sure. I went off the recommendation of a audio guy I know. The stock speakers are so bad, and this made a big improvement.
@@OurThrivingLife No worries, I'll experiment: I may try using the original wires for the Woofer and Tweeter (using the MBUX internal Crossover), and then compare that to using an external Crossover driven from the Woofer output (there may be a setup in the MBUX to bypass the internal Crossover to send a full-range signal to the Woofer output). Thanks again, you did a really nice job describing your work.
In the process of installing these speakers using the adapter ring. Seems the adapter was designed to work from the backside of the speaker because when I line it up from the front the adapter compresses the rubber surround which moves when the cone produces sound especially on the low end. I'm guessing the surround needs to "float", that's why it's a soft material, sometimes foam, rubber in this case. What does your system sound like with the woofer mounted this way?
You’re the second person to point this out. You may be correct. It’s been a while, and I can’t remember if the ring pressed on the speaker, but I haven’t noticed any problems with the sound on mine.
BTW, the mounting screws for the ring were way too short had to go to longer screws to allow for the foam and get a tight connection. Used the OEM screws to connect the ring to the door panel.
Very helpful! One question - I know your speaker kit came with a crossover and that you used that. Do you have a sense that the Original Sprinter tweeters were NOT behind a (Original) crossover? One would think they'd have a (perhaps stereo system-integrated) crossover already delivering high range to those tweeter wires (and thus save the fishing!) - although given the cheapness of the speakers, perhaps an inferior crossover. Any insights? Did you (or anyone) try out new tweeters on existing wires?
There was a crossover control integrated into the head unit, but I couldn’t hear the stock tweeters, even when treble was turned all the way up. Using better speakers with the stock wiring would probably be an improvement.
Rear speakers perhaps? Do you plan on adding those? I also FIXED the center speaker instead of disconnecting it and it's great. See the factory guidance on swapping the pins on the center or this video: ua-cam.com/video/p4KJKdlroFQ/v-deo.html
Hi I am in the middle of replacing my speakers and am curious why you require the crossover. There are speaker wires for the tweeters and the door speakers why not just use those? Any info is appreciated.
You could probably use the stock wires to connect the new tweeters and control them using the control in the head unit. My only concern with this option is that when I adjusted the treble with the stock speakers I couldn’t hear any difference. There is an option to purchase these speakers with the woofer and tweeter built into the door speakers. In that case, you don’t need a crossover.
@@OurThrivingLife Thank you. I have the asme JBL speakers you do i will put in the crossover as every thing is apart, i was just a little confused. A second question (unrelated) where did you ground your electrical system? Did you attach to the frame/chassis close to your battery bank etc.
I have one speaker that has no ohm reading (drivers side door) however I am getting a 2.3 VdC reading? All the other speakers working. I also get a crackling sound when I first jump into the van. Once the radio is on it works fine. Not sure why the door speaker is not working and why am I getting the crackling sound? Any advice would be appreciated.
Hey There, thanks for the video but after following, I believe there is a problem. The way you install the speaker into the bracket, you’re literally squishing the speaker come into the adapter bracket since the adapter bracket is meant to go around the backside of the speaker, around the magnet. I could show very well with a picture what you’re doing by putting the bracket on the door first and then screwing the speaker in from the backside. No?
You could be right, but from what I recall the bracket wouldn’t fit from the backside of the speaker. I believe it is meant to mount on the front. I didn’t notice the cone touching the door panel after install.
Well the cone would be pushing into the bracket. The hole in the bracket is only about 5” or so wide while the outside of the cone is about 5 3/4”, if I sent a photo you’d see what I mean. I ended up mounting the bracket to the speaker, and then the screws were in the way and hit the circular outline where the stock speaker fit, but just snipped 4 grooves in that to make room for those screws that mount the speaker to bracket and it seems to be working well. Can photos be posted to comments? I could show you what I’m saying or feel free to message me if you are interested. Otherwise, if your sound is good, great! Just looks like you’re essentially squishing the speaker cone into the bracket by screwing the speaker into the bracket. Great video! I mean, how many times in my van build I’ve had 10 different ideas and wish I’d done it slightly differently, that’s what all these videos are for so that we can try and get it all figured out! Way to guinea pig it!!
I agree, the plastic bracket has to go on backside of speaker or it infringes on outer part of speaker cone, speaker should be sandwiched between bracket and door panel. Not to lessen the quality of video, lots of good pointers!
I watched your video and disabled the center speaker as you recommended. What a difference! Thanks for the advice and the video on how to do it.
Good video. Replicated. Put speaker correctly on adapter plate first, then attached to sprinter panel. I also took out the A pillar airbag panel to run the tweeter wire. That was easier than fishing a tape for an hour and getting lucky. Thanks for the video!
Great tip on the polarity test! Pop out is +
Well done dude, with the speakers, you showed us everything except how it turned out in terms of an improvement.
Fast method to snake speaker wire to tweeter: 1) Starting from the tweeter side, snake wire straight down to the open area under the dash (easily accessible on my 2019), 2) Find the pass through to the door using one hand on each side (you don't even need a wire snake for this, but I still removed the wire cover between the door frame and the door). This works on both sides and takes only 2 minutes. Thanks for posting this!! Sound is much better.
Great tip. I’ll try this next time.
Great video. I think because you mounted the plastic bracket first you block the movement of the speaker. The bracket should sit behind the woofer, not in front of it.
Thanks. A 2 minute job to fix a miserable failure of Mercedes. We now enjoy the sound of our Mercedes motorhome. Will upgrade later the door speakers, but already very pleased.
Just finished upgrading my speakers. Sound is better. Deeper bass, cleaner highs, and less distortion at higher volume. Stock speakers are cheap paper cones and foam surround which won't last long. I found it was easier to feed the tweeter wire down from the dash speaker hole and reach up and grab it under the dash and feed it through the disconnected door tube. I also found that these speakers line up exactly with the door if you use the adapter to hold the speaker from the back. Added a lot of Thinsulate to the door while I had it apart. Haven't driven it yet but I expect it will cut down on the road noise based on how it sounds just closing the door.
Congrats. Glad it worked out. The stock speakers are awful.
Thank you for this video. I will be updating my 2019 as shown.
Mercedes should be embarrassed by the cheap speakers and poor sound they provide for this price range. I’ve had far better systems in vehicles that cost 1/3rd the money.
For base stereo I’d give them a pass, but for the top of line option with NAV and 360 cameras it’s unbelievable.
Especially since MB sells many vehicles into the RV and conversion market.
And who says tradespeople don’t want good quality sound given the amount of time they spend in their vehicles?
This tells me MB doesn’t monitor customer feedback on the various social media’s, or they just don’t care.
Come on Mercedes! It’s not 1984 anymore and I shouldn’t have to grab the Crutchfield catalog and tear my van apart, possibly voiding some warranty on the electrical “brains” of this vehicle.
And
7 Recalls in the first year-half of them software-are enough!
100% agree.
Just finished my set up. Jbl worked great! Pulled the wire from the center speaker and wired up a jbl amp sub combo under the passenger seat. I’m going to have to open the passenger door panel and add some sound deading mat. Getting some mega rattle. And it’s actually not from the sub.
Nice.
Good job on the video. I was stuck on the removal of the door panel so you video saved me some grief and a few broken clips I’m sure. Thanks!
Really good info! Thank you for this. Seeing the size of the magnets in the stock subwoofers was telling too.
I did this and also added a rockville 800w subwoofer under the passengerseat via hi level inputs. So great lo mid and hi.
how did you connect to the stock stereo?
Thanks, Jeff! You have inspired me to finally upgrade my stock stereo in my work van. Well done!
Good luck!
For those with a 2019 2500...the center speaker seems to be already redesigned to eliminate music. The center speaker only had one set of wires, and they seem to be for only the MBZ Roadside calls.
@Andy Vo Fair enough! I too am suffering along with the most basic system, but wasn't getting music out of that center channel. Or perhaps, mine is just their sub-basic system ;). Regardless, I didn't need to replace or disable the center speaker.
@Andy Vo Can you provide more info on this firmware fix? We have a 2020 Sprinter with the MBUX 10" display, and my dealer says there isn't anything available. Thank you!
Thanks for the video - I'd leave the stock tweeters in, forget a crossover (it's just going to minimize highs from the "bass" speaker, which it can't really reproduce anyway), and find some way to baffle the driver. These doors buzz with bass vibration and color the sound in a bad way. car. Baffles are cheap and can really help with plastics.
Great video, very informative, thanks for walking us through the steps to make the stereo sound better. I disconnected the center speaker, wow what a difference!
Now i just have to figure out how to wire the new tweeters.
It’s not that hard, but it does take patience. Good luck!
2020 Sprinter - thanks for the video, just disconnecting the center speaker made a big difference. Ordering my speakers next.
Is it possible to connect to the front door speakers and add rear speakers?
Thanks again!!
Ordered and stoked for installation. Thanks for the great videos.
Finished the install last weekend on my 2020 Sprinter. It was a immediate noticeable upgrade. A couple of tips I learned from the process, when putting the door panel back on start at the inside of the door on the bottom and work your way up and over to the outside of the door (keeps the pins set in place, I figured that out somewhere around the fourth attempt). I also used bailing wire rather than a traditional fish tape to pull the tweeter wires. Once the tweeter is out you can see daylight from the underside of the dash and easily pull the rigid smaller wire into the bottom of the hole. Thanks again for the great video.
Admire your patience!!...Thank you
Thank you very much for sharing. Really good video
Hi Thanks for posting this it sounds way better. You posted in the video that disconnecting the front speaker disconnects the SOS system. Can you clarify. Great Videos.
I was told by someone that this would disconnect the SOS system, but I accidentally hit the SOS button a few days ago and it made the call to Mercedes. I’d check it out yourself to be sure.
@@OurThrivingLife thank you. I will do a little home work.
While you have the door panels off, why not add a little Kilmat and some insulation?
Good video. Any idea how to add rear speakers?
Wow..that was too easy. Replaced the Bad speaker. Now works.However I still have the crackle(power surge?).it's still come on periodically.
Nice walkthrough...I needed the panel removal portion, and now I'm headed over to Amazon to buy the speakers! However, I missed the link for the connectors here and on your site...is it listed anywhere?
These are the connector I used: amzn.to/35Wmmvc
@@OurThrivingLife Thx, luckily I had some of those lying around. For the smaller one I was able to crimp the larger into a U shape. Worked well!
Thanks for the great video--Your explanations are quite clear. I disconnected the center speaker wire and it has made a world of difference. Much, much better sound. By chance have you looked at changing out the XM-radio antenna? I would like to cover the entire roof with solar panels and the antenna is in the way. With much effort, I was able to get to the back of the MBUX head unit and found the green Fakra Plug but plugging in a couple of different XM-radio antennas is not working. Wonder if that coxial cable with the Fakra plug is for both GPS and XM-radio. Read somewhere awhile back that the XM-radio connection is under the driver's seat along with the fuse panels but that seems odd.
Very helpful. Thank you.
Do you recommend disconnecting the battery while changing out the speakers? Just wondering if there's risk of damaging the head unit or other electronics (w/ battery connected).
I’ve been looking for this. I had already disconnected the center speaker but definitely want to upgrade my other speakers. Do you have a link to the little connectors you got in that package you mentioned that fit the crossover/etc, thanks again!
These are the ones I used: amzn.to/36Bk58P
love you walk through! one question: are you sure the door speakers get a full range signal from the head unit?
I don't know that for sure. I went on the recommendation of a car audio guy, it definitely sounds a lot better.
You noted the SOS feature is disconnected after disconnecting the center speaker but phone will still work.
Have you tested the SOS after this mod? Can you hear and be heard in case this system is activated?
why not just changing the speaker and keep the existing wires and plugs, does it work ? easier ? regards from Switzerland
You can do that if you are using door speakers that have the tweeters built in. You would then just disconnect the tweeters in the dash. You are correct that this would be an easier install.
I used component speakers with a crossover. In this case you need new wires from the crossover to the dash tweeters.
@@OurThrivingLife Thanks for your comment !
The speakers are tuned to the crossover. Results will be less breaking up the set
Exactly what I have been looking for! How big of an improvement did this give you, would you you recommend this setup?
Nothing earth shattering, but for a hundred bucks and a few hours it’s a pretty big improvement.
Very nice informative video! My question is: do you know if the factory unit already has a crossover? If the factory unit already has a crossover to send high frequency to the tweeter and mid/low frequency to the woofer in the door, wouldn't you only be getting mid/low from the wire powering the factory woofer? When you use that wire as a source for both of your JBL woofer and tweeter, wouldn't you be still missing the high frequency? I guess the bottomline is does it sound better after your upgrade. Or if you dial up your high frequency in your head unit's equalizer, can you tell from the sound? Thanks ahead for your comment. I am considering upgrading the factory speakers for my 2019
I'm not an expert on this, but what you're saying makes sense. I followed the recommendation of another van builder on my speaker install. It is a big improvement over the stock speakers, and sounds pretty good for the money spent.
On my next van build, I will go with separate woofers and tweeters, and just use the stock speaker wire. I think this will sound just as good, but eliminate the need for the crossover and the hassle of running new wires.
Good luck!
@@OurThrivingLife Thanks for the quick reply. I really appreciate it. There are so little information I can find regarding this. Your input helps! I have a radio only option on my 2019 and I already swapped it out with an Alpine Halo so I can have Apple Car Play etc. But the sound still pretty bad. So I am thinking of ways to improve on my own. Mine is also a passenger van. So I have 3 pairs of factory woofers and tweeters to contemplate with...... :). I may give Clutchfield a call. I really don't want to re-wire the whole length of the van including the sliding door : ). Thanks again!
Great video. thanks for posting!... Quick question:
Since originally there are separate Woofer and Tweeter, is there an external Crossover?
Or is the MBUX (head unit) driving them with separate wires (with an internal crossover)?
Basically, I'm trying to understand which wires from the MBUX are connected to the new Crossover.
Presumably that connection is full-range, and the spilt into Low-Range and Hi-Range at the Crossover.
I used the external crossover that came with the speakers, but you could probably use the one built into the head unit.
@@OurThrivingLife OK... But that means that the set of wires going into the external Crossover must carry a full-range (frequency) signal and not just the low-pass filter signal intended for the original Woofer.
Basically, the original setup is also "Component" (separate Woofer & Tweeter), so the signal going to the original Woofer does not have the "higher frequency" content that's intended for the Tweeter, and vice-versa.
BTW, I presume that you fed the external Crossover with the wires that were intended for the Woofer, is that right?... If so, I'd expect you're missing some high-frequency content, unless you re-configured the MBUX to send a full-range signal to that output... basically bypassing the internal crossover.
Does that make sense?
@@hookem7060 Makes sense, but I’m no expert and not sure. I went off the recommendation of a audio guy I know. The stock speakers are so bad, and this made a big improvement.
@@OurThrivingLife No worries, I'll experiment: I may try using the original wires for the Woofer and Tweeter (using the MBUX internal Crossover), and then compare that to using an external Crossover driven from the Woofer output (there may be a setup in the MBUX to bypass the internal Crossover to send a full-range signal to the Woofer output).
Thanks again, you did a really nice job describing your work.
In the process of installing these speakers using the adapter ring. Seems the adapter was designed to work from the backside of the speaker because when I line it up from the front the adapter compresses the rubber surround which moves when the cone produces sound especially on the low end. I'm guessing the surround needs to "float", that's why it's a soft material, sometimes foam, rubber in this case. What does your system sound like with the woofer mounted this way?
You’re the second person to point this out. You may be correct. It’s been a while, and I can’t remember if the ring pressed on the speaker, but I haven’t noticed any problems with the sound on mine.
@@OurThrivingLife Thanks for the response, I was able to mount the speakers with the ring on the backside, Maybe they've changed the ring?
BTW, the mounting screws for the ring were way too short had to go to longer screws to allow for the foam and get a tight connection. Used the OEM screws to connect the ring to the door panel.
@@raytaylor9659 Thanks for the feedback. I’m going to pull my door panels and check mine.
On the door-mounted Woofer, how deep can the Woofer be?
(That JBL is a bit over 2" deep, just wondering if other options may work)
Wish you wouldn’t have fast forwarded through the door removal. Great job though
Very helpful! One question - I know your speaker kit came with a crossover and that you used that. Do you have a sense that the Original Sprinter tweeters were NOT behind a (Original) crossover? One would think they'd have a (perhaps stereo system-integrated) crossover already delivering high range to those tweeter wires (and thus save the fishing!) - although given the cheapness of the speakers, perhaps an inferior crossover. Any insights? Did you (or anyone) try out new tweeters on existing wires?
There was a crossover control integrated into the head unit, but I couldn’t hear the stock tweeters, even when treble was turned all the way up. Using better speakers with the stock wiring would probably be an improvement.
I installed my tweeters and speakers using the stock wires and had no issues, tweeters sound pretty good
Rear speakers perhaps? Do you plan on adding those? I also FIXED the center speaker instead of disconnecting it and it's great. See the factory guidance on swapping the pins on the center or this video: ua-cam.com/video/p4KJKdlroFQ/v-deo.html
Nice tip on the center speaker. I didn’t add rear speakers.
Hi I am in the middle of replacing my speakers and am curious why you require the crossover. There are speaker wires for the tweeters and the door speakers why not just use those? Any info is appreciated.
You could probably use the stock wires to connect the new tweeters and control them using the control in the head unit.
My only concern with this option is that when I adjusted the treble with the stock speakers I couldn’t hear any difference.
There is an option to purchase these speakers with the woofer and tweeter built into the door speakers. In that case, you don’t need a crossover.
@@OurThrivingLife Thank you. I have the asme JBL speakers you do i will put in the crossover as every thing is apart, i was just a little confused. A second question (unrelated) where did you ground your electrical system? Did you attach to the frame/chassis close to your battery bank etc.
@@stewartcook6684 I grounded it to the chassis using the D-ring bolt hole in the floor just behind the passenger side rear wheel well.
@@OurThrivingLife That is one of my options. Thank you.
The speakers are tuned to the crossover. Results will be less breaking up the set
Do you leave the disconnected tweeter wires abandoned or cap them?
Best to cap them.
I have one speaker that has no ohm reading (drivers side door) however I am getting a 2.3 VdC reading? All the other speakers working. I also get a crackling sound when I first jump into the van. Once the radio is on it works fine. Not sure why the door speaker is not working and why am I getting the crackling sound? Any advice would be appreciated.
I’m no expert, but sounds like you’ve either got a loose wire or a bad speaker.
Hey There, thanks for the video but after following, I believe there is a problem. The way you install the speaker into the bracket, you’re literally squishing the speaker come into the adapter bracket since the adapter bracket is meant to go around the backside of the speaker, around the magnet. I could show very well with a picture what you’re doing by putting the bracket on the door first and then screwing the speaker in from the backside. No?
Sorry, speaker cone. Still plenty of helpful advice, but see what I’m saying??
You could be right, but from what I recall the bracket wouldn’t fit from the backside of the speaker. I believe it is meant to mount on the front. I didn’t notice the cone touching the door panel after install.
Well the cone would be pushing into the bracket. The hole in the bracket is only about 5” or so wide while the outside of the cone is about 5 3/4”, if I sent a photo you’d see what I mean. I ended up mounting the bracket to the speaker, and then the screws were in the way and hit the circular outline where the stock speaker fit, but just snipped 4 grooves in that to make room for those screws that mount the speaker to bracket and it seems to be working well. Can photos be posted to comments? I could show you what I’m saying or feel free to message me if you are interested. Otherwise, if your sound is good, great! Just looks like you’re essentially squishing the speaker cone into the bracket by screwing the speaker into the bracket. Great video! I mean, how many times in my van build I’ve had 10 different ideas and wish I’d done it slightly differently, that’s what all these videos are for so that we can try and get it all figured out! Way to guinea pig it!!
@@BombFootbags Thanks for the info. I’ll check my speakers when I get a chance.
I agree, the plastic bracket has to go on backside of speaker or it infringes on outer part of speaker cone, speaker should be sandwiched between bracket and door panel. Not to lessen the quality of video, lots of good pointers!
how many watts are the factory standard speakers? they must be low.
I don’t know, but they’re so weak you can barely hear them.
@@OurThrivingLife Yer I was looking for some replacements for the door ones that I could just straight swap for the factory ones no wiring needed.
Grey and white is negative and the purple is positive.
Did he say this opposite (incorrectly) in the video?
Those jbl garbage, I installed them in my van, lasted about 3 months
That’s a bummer. Sorry to hear that. I’ve had them for 6 months and still going strong.
The JBLs are just fine, not made to buzz you license plate