Thank you for this video, I am about to attempt this repair. This will be one of the tougher repairs ive done. This car has been a headache, ive done all the repairs myself because I am too poor to afford a mechanic. New spark plugs Battery connector cleaned New air filter New driver side window motor regulator Tore apart the trunk due to destroyed matt Headlights needed clean Buffered the entire body due to heavy residue Multiple fuses blown including AC charging fuse because the last nimrod put in the wrong fuse Breaks cleaned New radiator tank - Still leaks too due to broken hose Re-seated the window wiper motor as a bullet casing was lodged in the motor damaging it Tore down the back two passanger doors so they would open. Both were so rusted I had to tear apart the door casing and clean the lever on both. One of them has to be left off. Both doors open now New valve cover gasket Ive spent probably 50 hours on this car. This is just another hour to be added. It has 324 thousand miles and its last owner didnt even attempt to take care of it, at all. It wasnt even running when I got it. Most people are amazed I can keep the damn thing running but it would be in far better condition if the last owner properly took care of the damn thing. He ran it until the spark plugs completely burnt out, then said it was the transmission. I took her in and treated her like a queen, I got easily 10k+ miles out of it. But shes about ready for the end. Believe it or not the cost to fix her so far including the IAC has only been about 400$. Thats even including the 3 month oil changes I do on her. If Id have went to a mechanic the cost would easily be over 1500$. Just to do the valve cover gaskets (10 min job for me) it would cost 90$ for labor ALONE. This is why we dont trust mechanics and thats the cheapest price I got. Some wanted over 100$ for labor ALONE. I ran a full test on her and she needs a whole new fuel tank sensor and that's it. I am sure the fuel injectors are going out but after I fix the IAC there isn't anything seriously wrong with her. Truly amazing how long a car will last if you just take care of it. My last car had 270k miles when it died and that was a 2003 dodge grand caravan and those things are nightmares to fix. I finally sold it after realizing the fuel injectors, AC condenser coil, fuel sensor, and the blower motor was all bad. To this day I regret it, I could have fixed all of that for under 100$. I did buy it for 350 and sell it for 800 so I did get a decent profit. I only put like 150$ into it. Still hurts seeing my work gone like that. You get attached to the car when you work on it like I do. If you learn to fix shit yourself you will never be without a car. I speak from personal experience. As long as you have 1000$ you can easily get a car and fix it right up. I often go on facebook or to junkyards to find my vehicles. I need more tools however, you can NEVER have enough tools.
Just got a check engine light, got the code P0505. Thankfully to people like you I don’t gotta pay someone else to do it. Thank you going to attempt this !
thanks for video. gave me a confidence boost knowing theres a specific tutorial out there. only issue i had was removing lock ring cause i wasnt sure what i was looking for, but if you pause video u can see where the bolt is after he takes the filter base out. anyway i took it out using force and it worked out ok.
Great vid. I did this and it fixed my idle problem. But after driving for 15 mins, the check engine light came on and it started driving really choppy- like it wasnt getting enough fuel. When i put it in neutral and open the throttle by hand (or with the pedal), it is not smooth, causing the engine to bounce when it rapidly fluctuates rpms. Any ideas?
@@datbeastlykid14 ya I bought a new IAC valve and it did the trick. I think when I cleaned it, it may have broken the part. It runs perfectly now. You can order the part for 40$ from Walmart (which I did). Most auto stores want around 150
U have a link to the IAC valve? All ones I looked at say compatible with1996-2000 Civic's LX,DX,HX but then right below they say won't fit same models? 🤦🤷 I'm looking for one fit 98 civic DX coupe manual transmission
guy i bought the car from says he replaced the IACV and had paperwork from a shop to prove it, but even months later this'll still flick my check engine light on every now and then. sometimes it comes on, sometimes it turns off, and the idling is rarely very rough at all, but it still feels like an issue with the IACV, and the scanner confirmed it. any idea why that may be?
@@Thndrstrike anytime! If it's not coolant then there might be a vaccum leak somewhere. Next time while it's acting up use a socket extension and tap on the valve, if it evens out after you tap on it then it might be a faulty valve. If it doesn't change then it's probably a vaccum leak somewhere. Did the shop diagnose it? Because if they did you can take it back to the shop with your paperwork and tell them that it's still acting up and make them figure it out for free since they misdiagnosed it.
I know this was 3 years ago and i really appreciate if you can help. I have a 2000 honda civic exact same engine layout as yours, I followed your steps perfectly and I cleaned the part and replaced the IAC. The IAC is confirmed working however after replacing the IAC my Honda is idling at 1600 RPM and the engine begins to faulter on idle. I have checked the ignition switch, I checked the valve that controls the idle RPMs and lowered it dramatically, and I checked my work over. Everything was done perfectly yet it still idles at 1600 RPM and the engine fails. There is just 1 fault code, it says too much fuel and not enough oxygen, however that code dissappeared and may have been due to the cleaner I used. I have a few theories, its either an air pocket formed in the IAC after installation. The valve isnt staying open properly under the air filter. The ignition coil may have loosened as heavy oil was covering it. Ive checked everything else, I was hoping I could get a second opinion. Ill update if I find a fix. Apart from high idle RPMs and the engine was at heavy load 30%, there is nothing wrong with the car. Keep in mind the car was always at high idle 1200 RPM at 15% engine load before the IAC was installed so I am betting it could just be an air pocket that corrects itself in time.
It's really hard for me to say without looking at the car myself. These are older vehicles so there could possibly be some kind of vacuum leak, maybe possible intake gasket so something along those lines.
Not a vacuum leak, if it is its completely undetectable. When I tried revving the engine it would stick at high RPMs like 1800 RPM. It wouldnt go into idle, I think the Idle air controller I installed is faulty. Thats my only guess, so I am going to have to take it apart and put the old one on, ill clean it and see what happens. If that doesnt work, I am out of ideas. Apart from trying to replace the entire throttle body and hoping its that but there are no codes coming out or anything.
I figured it out. Not only was my IAC bad, but my throttle body was also bad. This was due to a leak on the valve cover gasket where oil drenched everything. I need a new car.
Order them online! You find aftermarket IACV’s online, just be sure that the gasket fits properly. They can be a bit wonky at times. With a part like this, I’d go OEM. Use an online OEM store to order it! They’re the same parts the dealer offers but for cheaper and shipping is pretty quick.
Yo man I followed your video got to the point where you take off the hose tube connected to the idle control valve when I was taking it off fluid was coming out of it. Is that normal ? Did you have to bleed anything ? It smelt like clutch fluid I have a manual dx coupe
It was coolant and totally normal, it powers the valve. A little should leak out when it's removed unless you drain coolant first (pointless, just top off after reattaching IAC)
mines turned out to be a p28 ecu which expected another IACV and the throttle body etc and intake man was already swapped. flogged the car ! but that was my reason.@@luizbiersack6664
@buntongm hello friend can you help me? I have a honda civic fair I saw Japanese 2000, d15 engine. I would like to know if the iac valve that you use is the same one that the American version uses?
Question did this cause your car to miss fire for any reason I have a 2000 Honda Civic changed everything in the car an still have miss fire as I drive
This valve doesn't cause misfires, it will cause the car to go up and down in rpm irratically as it controls air flow, if you changed everything and it is misfiring, I would check your valve adjustment, over time the valves get tight and cause misfires.
Good video, all without even speaking lol. I will say whatever you had dangling from your GoPro Or camera was a little annoying as it kept tapping the case of the camera but minor details I suppose. Just some constructive criticism 👍🏻
I changed it and my car first started to go up and down in ideal and then it would go up to 3k and stay there I bleed the coolant from what I heard they said it was air in the system all the videos I see is just how to replace it not how to fix and get the car to relearn the ideal
I like the way you made this video. People always try too hard and over explain everything. Your video is easy to follow
I appreciate it alot, thanks!
Thank you for this video, I am about to attempt this repair. This will be one of the tougher repairs ive done. This car has been a headache, ive done all the repairs myself because I am too poor to afford a mechanic.
New spark plugs
Battery connector cleaned
New air filter
New driver side window motor regulator
Tore apart the trunk due to destroyed matt
Headlights needed clean
Buffered the entire body due to heavy residue
Multiple fuses blown including AC charging fuse because the last nimrod put in the wrong fuse
Breaks cleaned
New radiator tank - Still leaks too due to broken hose
Re-seated the window wiper motor as a bullet casing was lodged in the motor damaging it
Tore down the back two passanger doors so they would open. Both were so rusted I had to tear apart the door casing and clean the lever on both. One of them has to be left off. Both doors open now
New valve cover gasket
Ive spent probably 50 hours on this car. This is just another hour to be added. It has 324 thousand miles and its last owner didnt even attempt to take care of it, at all. It wasnt even running when I got it. Most people are amazed I can keep the damn thing running but it would be in far better condition if the last owner properly took care of the damn thing. He ran it until the spark plugs completely burnt out, then said it was the transmission. I took her in and treated her like a queen, I got easily 10k+ miles out of it. But shes about ready for the end. Believe it or not the cost to fix her so far including the IAC has only been about 400$. Thats even including the 3 month oil changes I do on her. If Id have went to a mechanic the cost would easily be over 1500$. Just to do the valve cover gaskets (10 min job for me) it would cost 90$ for labor ALONE. This is why we dont trust mechanics and thats the cheapest price I got. Some wanted over 100$ for labor ALONE.
I ran a full test on her and she needs a whole new fuel tank sensor and that's it. I am sure the fuel injectors are going out but after I fix the IAC there isn't anything seriously wrong with her. Truly amazing how long a car will last if you just take care of it. My last car had 270k miles when it died and that was a 2003 dodge grand caravan and those things are nightmares to fix. I finally sold it after realizing the fuel injectors, AC condenser coil, fuel sensor, and the blower motor was all bad. To this day I regret it, I could have fixed all of that for under 100$. I did buy it for 350 and sell it for 800 so I did get a decent profit. I only put like 150$ into it. Still hurts seeing my work gone like that. You get attached to the car when you work on it like I do.
If you learn to fix shit yourself you will never be without a car. I speak from personal experience. As long as you have 1000$ you can easily get a car and fix it right up. I often go on facebook or to junkyards to find my vehicles. I need more tools however, you can NEVER have enough tools.
Just got a check engine light, got the code P0505. Thankfully to people like you I don’t gotta pay someone else to do it. Thank you going to attempt this !
Perfect Instructions! I was able to do the job myself in under an hour.
Thanks for watching!
thanks for video. gave me a confidence boost knowing theres a specific tutorial out there. only issue i had was removing lock ring cause i wasnt sure what i was looking for, but if you pause video u can see where the bolt is after he takes the filter base out. anyway i took it out using force and it worked out ok.
thanks
Thanks for posting this, very helpful
Amazing vídeo! Best regards from Belo Horizonte, Brazil! I have a Civic 1.6 LX 2000
Trocasse? Qual comprou?
@@PedroGomes-dn2ti vendi meu carro. Na época uma oficina especializada fez o serviço
Thank you. I followed your instructions and got the job done!
Any time!
Thanks for this video !! I have honda civic lx 99 in my country !! Guatemala city !!thanks bro !!
Great video
You Da Man!!!!!
Do you have a video on replacing fuel injectors?
Thanks 👍
You're welcome!
Thank you 👍🏼😃👍🏼
Anytime!
Is this aftermarket one still working fine for you?
Hi sir 9min first hose it’s air hose and the second hose 10min it’s coolant hose right ?
Where you buy your idle air control valve? Link me please if you can.
I bought it on amazon
P2c yo1 ecu damage l buy p2c 003 ecu . It good runig but rpm 1500 up . Iac valve clean but no ok what do
Great vid. I did this and it fixed my idle problem. But after driving for 15 mins, the check engine light came on and it started driving really choppy- like it wasnt getting enough fuel. When i put it in neutral and open the throttle by hand (or with the pedal), it is not smooth, causing the engine to bounce when it rapidly fluctuates rpms. Any ideas?
Did you ever figure this out?
@@datbeastlykid14 ya I bought a new IAC valve and it did the trick. I think when I cleaned it, it may have broken the part. It runs perfectly now. You can order the part for 40$ from Walmart (which I did). Most auto stores want around 150
@@canuk88does the Walmart brand work ?
@@Davidmtz559 like a dream. still going strong
U have a link to the IAC valve?
All ones I looked at say compatible with1996-2000 Civic's LX,DX,HX but then right below they say won't fit same models? 🤦🤷
I'm looking for one fit 98 civic DX coupe manual transmission
Pretty sure they are all the same for the ek's www.amazon.com/dp/B07SPT5MV2/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_btf_awdb_ytVtFb3HTQBVG
@@buntongm wrong. The D16Y7 auto, D16Y8 auto, D16Y7 manual, and D16Y8 manual are all different.
In this case you’d need it for a D16Y7 manual. Make sure you don’t do a Y7 auto.
guy i bought the car from says he replaced the IACV and had paperwork from a shop to prove it, but even months later this'll still flick my check engine light on every now and then. sometimes it comes on, sometimes it turns off, and the idling is rarely very rough at all, but it still feels like an issue with the IACV, and the scanner confirmed it. any idea why that may be?
Is your coolant all the way filled? Coolant that's low can sometimes cause it to act up
@@buntongm it's not all the way to the max line, but the coolant is pretty high. any other ideas?
(thank you for the quick response btw!)
@@Thndrstrike anytime! If it's not coolant then there might be a vaccum leak somewhere. Next time while it's acting up use a socket extension and tap on the valve, if it evens out after you tap on it then it might be a faulty valve. If it doesn't change then it's probably a vaccum leak somewhere. Did the shop diagnose it? Because if they did you can take it back to the shop with your paperwork and tell them that it's still acting up and make them figure it out for free since they misdiagnosed it.
I know this was 3 years ago and i really appreciate if you can help. I have a 2000 honda civic exact same engine layout as yours, I followed your steps perfectly and I cleaned the part and replaced the IAC. The IAC is confirmed working however after replacing the IAC my Honda is idling at 1600 RPM and the engine begins to faulter on idle. I have checked the ignition switch, I checked the valve that controls the idle RPMs and lowered it dramatically, and I checked my work over. Everything was done perfectly yet it still idles at 1600 RPM and the engine fails.
There is just 1 fault code, it says too much fuel and not enough oxygen, however that code dissappeared and may have been due to the cleaner I used.
I have a few theories, its either an air pocket formed in the IAC after installation.
The valve isnt staying open properly under the air filter.
The ignition coil may have loosened as heavy oil was covering it.
Ive checked everything else, I was hoping I could get a second opinion. Ill update if I find a fix. Apart from high idle RPMs and the engine was at heavy load 30%, there is nothing wrong with the car. Keep in mind the car was always at high idle 1200 RPM at 15% engine load before the IAC was installed so I am betting it could just be an air pocket that corrects itself in time.
It's really hard for me to say without looking at the car myself. These are older vehicles so there could possibly be some kind of vacuum leak, maybe possible intake gasket so something along those lines.
@@buntongm thank you, I'll check that. I am thinking it's indeed a vacuum leak.
Not a vacuum leak, if it is its completely undetectable. When I tried revving the engine it would stick at high RPMs like 1800 RPM. It wouldnt go into idle, I think the Idle air controller I installed is faulty. Thats my only guess, so I am going to have to take it apart and put the old one on, ill clean it and see what happens. If that doesnt work, I am out of ideas. Apart from trying to replace the entire throttle body and hoping its that but there are no codes coming out or anything.
I figured it out. Not only was my IAC bad, but my throttle body was also bad. This was due to a leak on the valve cover gasket where oil drenched everything. I need a new car.
Good video, very detailed just wish you would say what you was doing and all, instead get wind tool sound and heavy breathing
Nice work. Bro i want a new idle valve , do you know how can i get one ?
Order them online! You find aftermarket IACV’s online, just be sure that the gasket fits properly. They can be a bit wonky at times.
With a part like this, I’d go OEM. Use an online OEM store to order it! They’re the same parts the dealer offers but for cheaper and shipping is pretty quick.
Yo man I followed your video got to the point where you take off the hose tube connected to the idle control valve when I was taking it off fluid was coming out of it. Is that normal ? Did you have to bleed anything ? It smelt like clutch fluid I have a manual dx coupe
It was coolant and totally normal, it powers the valve. A little should leak out when it's removed unless you drain coolant first (pointless, just top off after reattaching IAC)
You might clean up the coolant. Sometimes pets will drink it and get sick or die.
done exactly this after replacing the part with a new one. car now sits constantly at 3k and before was intermittent between 1-2k. any clues?
Might have bumped the throttle cable?
@@buntongm il be back at it at the weekend. Been reading and it may be a coolant bleeding issue.
@keepinitwheel5920 I have the same issue and I already bleed the coolant
mines turned out to be a p28 ecu which expected another IACV and the throttle body etc and intake man was already swapped. flogged the car ! but that was my reason.@@luizbiersack6664
@buntongm
hello friend can you help me? I have a honda civic fair I saw Japanese 2000, d15 engine. I would like to know if the iac valve that you use is the same one that the American version uses?
Hello! They should be interchangeable
Question did this cause your car to miss fire for any reason I have a 2000 Honda Civic changed everything in the car an still have miss fire as I drive
This valve doesn't cause misfires, it will cause the car to go up and down in rpm irratically as it controls air flow, if you changed everything and it is misfiring, I would check your valve adjustment, over time the valves get tight and cause misfires.
buntongm ya I did that ass well now would a bad cat that’s clogged maybe can that cause miss mofe
Is you check engine light on? What codes do you have?
buntongm po301 po302 po303 po304 po300 mutpile miss fire but I already change spark plugs an wires eveybro
I would double check your timing
Good video, all without even speaking lol. I will say whatever you had dangling from your GoPro Or camera was a little annoying as it kept tapping the case of the camera but minor details I suppose. Just some constructive criticism 👍🏻
I appreciate it! The back cover is loose on the GoPro sorry
Alright so I replaced the iacv and it’s still throwing a code for it?
Did you clear the code?
Yeah 3 times now
Did you use a new part or a used one?
New
Esas mangueras que tiene la válvula iac de donde vienen??
las mangueras son de coolant
dont work my honda civic 2000 i change new ilder valve but still engine display after 5 or 10 days
Do you have rpm fluctuation ? Double check if the coolant is all the way full and see if you have any vaccum leaks in any of your vaccum hoses.
Also did you clear the code with a scanner?
I changed it and my car first started to go up and down in ideal and then it would go up to 3k and stay there I bleed the coolant from what I heard they said it was air in the system all the videos I see is just how to replace it not how to fix and get the car to relearn the ideal
Why are these 175-200$ fml
Looks nothing like my 97 ex