I'm getting back into the hobby after about a ten year break, and I've been watching your videos to get a better idea of things. When I first entered the hobby as a teenager, I didn't bother to look into things, I just grabbed the bull by the horns and did my own thing. But your tutorials on under-painting, wet pallets and painting has already given me so many ideas, and I've started to implement them in painting up an old Exorcist I had lying disassembled from 2005. Keep doing what you're doing, it's great to have someone explain these things with a bit of humour and clearly enough that a novice can immediately know what you mean.
It's actually a pretty good idea, even if you can do exactly the same with Gesso, which is like 10$ for 2 pints, dry the same and as basically the same texture as liquid GS. And for that price, you can even take half the Gesso in another can, and put some thin sand with it for basing (that's the way I'm making ground and walls on my DIY terrain). Hope you'll like the cheaper idea ;)
"Certainly NOT over a month later..." Ah! Your wit and radio voice make it really easy to listen to your stuff. Appreciated. (Sorry, back-to-back fanboy comments, ha!)
FYI you can fill cracks waaaay easier, faster and cheaper by just filling the gap with super glue, sprinkle some baking soda over it, sand it down and presto! gap gone
I use Elmer's glue, wipe the excess with my finger. It shrinks a little so depending on the gap it might take two coats. After priming and before painting, and it works really well!
For gap filler that is thin enough to be applied with a brush, try Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer straight out of the bottle, or you can try Squadron White Putty thinned down with Tamiya Extra Thin cement.
i tend to use vallejo filler for smaller gaps, it doesn't shrink much if at all and has a fine nozzle for application, for larger gaps and short shots i break out the squadron green and thin it with a little lacquer thinner. for surface textures it has to be mr surfacer in its various grades.
Sharpies Models Vallejo plastic putty has been pretty good to me but has a lil learning curve as any outside the gap or hole being filled can be a nuisance. But overall I do like it more than trying to be a bricklayer with green putty and a suitable spatula.
Hmm. An interesting adaptation. I have been doing some liquid filth experiments recently too. It's not a great gap filler, but because it's essentially a thickening agent it can be added to texture paints and layered over bases to provide a more malleable layer to play around with. I like the subtle finish on the wraith - you have created a level detail that cannot be achieved simply through fine casting - this is the benefit of smooth surfaces because they allow us to add our own interpretations and fine details.
Liquid green stuff came out about two years before fine cast. Filling Gaps have always been part of model building. Before liquid green stuff I used bondo filler, which comes in a tube and is purchased at the automotive parts suppliers. I do agree that fine cast is one of the worst product that games workshop has shoved down the consumers throats.
9 years later and this video is a great help! I bought some liquid green stuff to fill gaps on my models and was looking up how to use it and unexpectedly found this gem! I'm building an Eldar army that's supposed to be risen from the grave and the bikes/tanks are far too smooth, so happy to hear about this trick to add some texture!
Milliput did it first! i sometimes dissolve both half's of milliput in water untill you end up with somthing paint like then mix the two. You can do a lot with that, you can even use it like resin for making castings of what ever you want to replicate. It dose shrink a bit sometimes no idea why other times it comes out fine; maybe alittle more porous for some people. But for casting/filling/covering what is meant to be cloth it is ideal. one downside is that by mixing so much water into the model you can actually end up with water inside the miniature or whatever you've cast with it. It will evaporate in time however.
@tabletopminions: You can also paint over typhus corrosion to get a similar, but slightly different effect, than what you're talking about in this video. It looks pretty cool in some applications.
I think liquid green stuff actually works fine for filling in gaps. what you're supposed to over fill the gap a bit and then after it's dry lightly sand away the excess. I'd also recommend not wetting your brush prior to applying it since that'll thin it out a bit and probably cause even more contraction.
i've only recently found your channel (and i must say, it fills a long-needed niche in the youtube modeling community) and after watching your video about hoarding unpainted models, ive been listening/watching your videos one after another while i paint so i dont have to listen to myself think like i usually do, like a podcast.
Thanks for the insight and the humor, well done!! For filling cracks and gaps in plastics I use a dental spatula and pack in acrylic Spackle and build it a bit higher than the plastic. It scrapes of quite easily and is very inexpensive. I use the putty Green Stuff on metal models. I just bought a bottle of the liquid Green Stuff to try to fasten an Amazon Blood Bowl team onto their bases. The tabs are tiny and I may wind up using the putty in the end.
Seven years since you made this video, and I just discover not only the video, but a use for a GW/Citadel product I've eschewed since it came on the market. Thanks! I think... ;)
That’s a great idea to use it for texturing. As for filling gaps, don’t thin it with water. Mush it into the gap and build it up so it’s higher than the gap. Let it dry then use ur knife to shave the excess and buff/smooth with fine sand paper.
In the past I have used white-based PVA mixed with a little fine plaster (Linka is ideal) as a thick filler. There is some shrinkage in large gaps but it does dry quickly and can be re-coated again to re-fill. It can be sanded and scraped. If you want extra texture I have also added very fine sand (very fine) or else talcum powder.
I never had any problems filling small gaps and seams (especially on the newer multipart plastic characters with all their undercuts and stuff) with Liquid Green Stuff - dab it on, let it dry for a few minutes, give it a quick sanding and it's done... it's also great to smoothen out some irregularities on casted surfaces, just thin it down real good and give it a quick brushing-over and a light sanding (especially on cloaks).
My best "liquid" Green Stuff is actually some stuff I got about 12 years ago. It is now all gummy and would qualify as a solid, but with a dab of water and a bit of squidging with the end of a paintbrush you get yourself something akin to 'slip' as you would use when bonding bits of clay. To achieve this I needed to let it dry out for 8 years, but it is now totally worthwhile having around.
I've been trying to sculpt with the help of LGS. Didn't realise there'd be a bumpy texture to it dried though so bit sad about that. If you want to add texture that's slightly less noticeable, Typhus Corrosion also works.
I never knew LIQUID greenstuff existed. I just use a bit of regular greenstuff and push it around with the brush from a bottle of liquid cement that I use only with greenstuff. The cement thins the greenstuff, fills gaps, creates texture as mentioned in the video if only thinned a little and can also be thinned more to leave as smooth or smoother a finish going on than anything I can achieve with other fillers by sanding. It makes good anti-slip surfaces and the appearance of cast metal parts on armored vehicles too. It does pay to have a well-ventilated are to work in though. Bob Horning.
Has it really been 10 years?! I was trying out liquid green stuff, and I remembered that you made a video on it. Looked it up, but wow it’s been a long time since.
While I certainly value your information, a (sped up) demonstration would have been even more advantageous for all of us. I thank you for all that you do for us.
On the scale modeling front, something similar to this is done to create the texture of cast metal sections. There are a couple of different ways to do it but closer to the Liquid Green Stuff technique you mentioned is the use of modeling putty thinned down and blotched on with a stiff brush. You can even find modeling putty in green...
This is why I always prefer the green stuff putty for the resin and some plastic miniatures. You have more control when you use the sculpting tool to place the putty in the area or the model if you know how to use it well. The liquid green stuff needs to be more of a paste with some moisture to last longer if not in use for over a year and where it needs to be stored to maintain it's moist for your next assembled models.
I don't have any liquid green stuff but after watching this, the texture reminded me of watercolor ground/gesso I use to paint watercolor on canvas. So I tried it and it had the same effect. I'm excited as this is a cheap solution that gave me a cool texture that I haven't even considered for miniature painting.
For filling gaps in plastics, try Squadron Putty. Citadel's Liquid Green Stuff is basically a copy of Squadron Green Putty - which contains a little bit of the solvent that works on the plastic (sort of like liquid cement). Squadron also makes a white putty which is better from my experience.
Interesting idea! I am going to have to try that on some of my Orks. I wanted to say though that I can tell you from experience that this stuff does work well for what it was intended for (although by no means does that justify the crime that was Finecast). I have actually used this as GW recommends to fix up one of the first runs of a Boss Zagstruck model in Finecast (Failcast). It does work great for filling in small air bubbles, filling in gaps, etc. although regular Green Stuff works fine too for this but it is a bit more tedious as you can't apply it with a brush. I use it on bad glue jobs just like this one all the time. However my experience goes beyond simple bad fits. This Boss Zagstruck was pretty bad. I spent 8 hours repairing the shitty cast job which is by no means acceptable, Finecast was a flipping joke and I am happy to hear it is gone. Part of his chin was missing due to a massive air bubble. It was pretty much the whole left of his jaw just gone. I was actually able to not only fill the massive amount of air bubbles on the model with Liquid Greenstuff, I was able to glob it on that missing part of his chin and "re-sculpt" it with my brush. I little file work after it dried and it is not even noticeable. The trick to using Liquid Green Stuff as it was intended is to apply it thick in my opinion. Not too thick but much thicker than any paint.
I have used Liquid Greenstuff for what it's meant for before, but you have to do it a bit different tha how you use normal green stuff. I always "cake" it on, and then scrape off the excess (LIGHTLY!), and it works. I have used it for "painting" small details on models. It get's a bit rough, but you get cool effects on things like Ogres and Chaos. (Painting chaos stars etc)
+Tabletop Minions oooh, masking, now we are talking next level here! :P I'm tempted to try that on a "flat" shield or something, maybe watering down the Greenstuff a tad to make it smoother as well.
I will also use it when I am attaching parts that are not going together well. Liquid Green Stuff plus CA glue makes a solid join, especially for different material parts(like resin and plastic or different company resin/plastics)
7 years late, but I use Milliput to fill gaps and voids. Takes a few trys to learn how to use it good, but once you get the hang of it. It changes so much!
Thanks for the demo. Inspiring. Regards filling gaps and superfine modeling; I've often improvised tools out of wooden toothpicks or coffee stirrers. They can be cut or sanded to the shape needed. Dipped in water, drawing it up similarly to a brush which helps work regular green stuff more easlily, and because they're wood, no strength to mark or damage the surface of the model, plastic or pewter.
If you use normal green stuff and miniature sculpture tools, you can work the stuff in almost anywhere. I used to love Miliput back in the 90s for that.
Mix a small klot of light filler with a drop of color and a couple drops of water, apply pretty much the same way. Very nice for adding bigger textures to smooth spots, such as terrain and stuff. Might actually work on smooth models too.
Well, I did pick up some Liquid Green Stuff. I had the perfect project for it, "Shadows of Brimstone: City of the Ancients"... Man, some of the models in that game have pretty nasty gaps, even after filing everything down to fit right. I was able to fill in the gaps much easier then with real Green Stuff. It took a little trial and error, however, the stuff works great if you're using it right. One trick I developed was to put it on kind of thick. I'd then use my thumb or finger to clean off the excess by rubbing it towards the gap, not away. I'd let that sit for a min or so, then clean up around the edges with even a damp brush, or towel taking care not to get water where I didn't want it. Really happy I caught this video in time to paint this board game... Too bad I didn't have this the other week for when I painted up "Shadows of Brimstone: Swamp of Death". Though the models in that one really don't need the green stuff like the other one does.
The liquid greenstuff is great for filth over models, however not a gap filler for most models. Again, that's why I mainly use the green stuff putty. This was a good idea for the filth effects on models.
Also a great plastic filler is Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials. Also Mr Surfacer 500 and a stippling brush can achieve some great effects on cloth to show frail or texture material.
Most of my liquid green stuff ended up in the trash. I had several sealed pots and when I opened them up they were completely dry. Lesson learned so I stayed using the two part putty.
I kind of wonder if the "Liquid Green Stuff" wouldn't do well over normal "Green Stuff". In my limited experience filling in gaps, I find I always end up with less then even gap coverage. I'm thinking the liquid green stuff would work well as a filler for that. I might have to pick some of this up.
+All Systems Go! It would work pretty well, I'll bet. I've started stippling with a toothpick (cut the point off) and it works well. Thanks for watching!
i've never liked green stuff, never really tried liquid green stuff. This might seem kinda gross but I use the ash from my smokes, salt,flour all sorts of effects can be achieved but randomly dabbing glue or paint an just flinging random grime at your models..... i made a blood letter demon cutting a zombie in half...the zombie is in two pieces flying through the air, by glueing a strand or hair between the two pieces an then globing it woth red paint i got an amazing "flying gore splatter" it won me $200 in shwag from a local shops paint/sculptung comp.
I honestly just use some clay to fill in gaps and that seems to do a decent job. I'm not sure what kind of clay it is though, I've had it for so long I've forgotten.
Been messing with sculpting lately myself, and by sculpting, I mean actual out-right "Well... I built an armature, and let's do this', been using Azone 1/12th sized dolls as the base for two greater daemons I am making (Keeper of Secrets to look like the old-sexy tentacle-haired daemonettes; and a Lady of Change to be a be-robed, be-beaked, tentacle-horror-thing), 40k for preference... Been having a little difficulty with the 'fine detail' stuff... I saw this, thought about it, and this is GREAT depending on what you want it to do... great for 'building up' if watered down enough, making the 'edge' of things, or building up folds of skin to go over foot-talons, and so on. It shrinks more or less depending on how much water put in, and it is a learning process. ^.^
I use Armageddon dust, Sirland Mud or the concrete one, whatever that's called essentially all three are the same thing different colors. I apply the same type of texture with those. they are much more liquid easier to adjust the grains on the models. idk but the little can of filth is a great idea. I'll try it out 100% cause I have a can I haven't opened to might as well do something with it.
You could also try games workshop's typhus corrosion. Its a fairly thin paint that leaves really small granules of "sand". With a simple dry brush you can make the texture pop from the model. I used it personally on my cairn wraith for texture and I think it looks great.
Mr. Surfacer 500 (and 1000) are much better, and pretty much the only thing needed at this scale. Liquid filler is intended to fill small gaps (that's why its liquid). Spending time with dry fits is important. Even poor models can be fixed, or at least improved drastically so less fillers are needed. Liquid filler will shrink , but small gaps can be filled effectively with one coat if used correctly. The big advantage using it over paste fillers is that it is 'sculptable' with a paintbrush, so you can preserve details. At this scale with modern miniatures it's the only filler I use.
The final model looks great despite the green stuff not working in the way you had anticipated. Just out of curiosity what did you end up using to patch the "zipper" in the Wraith model? Great vid btw.
Next time you have a gap.. Try DAS air dry modeling clay mixed with super glue. It works wonders and you can form it. Not as well as the green stuff but it doesn't shrink.
In the video for liquid green stuff that GW produced for LGS they say that it will shrink and to do two thin coats but I will try it on a future death guard army at some Point
Now in my 30's, I'm coming back to Warhammer after almost 20 years without touching a single mini ... my plan: to build a Deathrattle army. The models are cool but I thought they were missing something : Dirt ! Mold ! Rust ! Rot ! I was looking for a magic trick to make them look the way I like (since my painting skill must have dropped drastically ). Your video blew my mind, and now I can't wait to pimp these Grave Guards ! Thanks :)
Ive never used either but I want to try some soon. I was just wondering if you can mix the liquid and regular green stuff? maybe that would work better for filling.
Great video =D I'm glad I came across this video before I bought a pot of this to fill gaps. However your idea for texturing the models is fantastic! Great video and channel mate :) Subscribed =D
when it comes to finecast fromwhat ive heard from people who do some of their own moulding with resin is that much of the defect issues with finecast isnt so much the material as it is that they are trying to mass produce something that needs more time to cure than pewter did. i can understand why they switched so quickly as at the time metals were starting to go up and price and we gamers were already pissing about cost, but looks as tho finecast was there to fill the void until they went full plastic which honestly i can handle that hiccup to get an all plastic line.
Tabletop Minions i knew a lot of people that did, i will admit that with necrons it became hard to tell what was a meant hole and what was air bubble but GW going to all plastic is still nice. and hey gotta find a new use for liquid greenstuff and sometimes it is easier to use it to fill small gaps that even plastic is subject to.
This video make me think to an other use for the Texture range of paint like Astrogranite or Stirland Mud. I used it for my army of nurgle chaos'warrior. you can use it on some parts of the armor plates to add corrosion texture or on the skin to make nice group of bubbons and bubbling rotting flesh. It's not yet painted, but it already look good on the plastic!
"this stuff; liquid greenstuff, is a little tiny can of filth"
the truth unveiled
Honestly, it's the only thing I use it for. Thanks for watching!
Please, don't listen to this idiot. He bought defective green stuff off ebay and thinks he discovered the GW Illuminati or something.
Your comment is EXACTLY the moment in which i moved down to see if someone typed it here. Easily the best part of the video.
I lost at the exact same sentence LMAOOO
I was gonna quote the exact same part, but I'm a tiny little bit late.
"His entire ass is missing"
The common struggle...
Love your channel, btw
He has Hank Hill syndrome...
"A little tiny can of filth..." Have you considered working in advertising?
I technically have worked in marketing for years. Thanks for watching!
"This stuff, liquid greenstuff, is a little can of filth"
my exact response after my first attempt at gap-filling with the stuff...
True use of green stuff:
Giving your Marines a
*T H I C C A S S*
Imagine the sound, 100s of marines charging, dummy thicc cheek clapping as their legs pump them across the battlefield.
*Wak wak wak wak wak wak*
@@heckinmemes6430 no pls
I am an undead ghost thing and I am offended by the attack on my cleanliness
Can you please post a video where you go through a car wash?
I just want to believe you :P
"Liquid Green Stuff - Little tiny can of filth" Great marketing campaign ;)
I'm getting back into the hobby after about a ten year break, and I've been watching your videos to get a better idea of things. When I first entered the hobby as a teenager, I didn't bother to look into things, I just grabbed the bull by the horns and did my own thing. But your tutorials on under-painting, wet pallets and painting has already given me so many ideas, and I've started to implement them in painting up an old Exorcist I had lying disassembled from 2005.
Keep doing what you're doing, it's great to have someone explain these things with a bit of humour and clearly enough that a novice can immediately know what you mean.
Excellent, I'm so glad to hear that you're getting back into it. I'm very glad to be able to help. Thanks for watching!
It's actually a pretty good idea, even if you can do exactly the same with Gesso, which is like 10$ for 2 pints, dry the same and as basically the same texture as liquid GS. And for that price, you can even take half the Gesso in another can, and put some thin sand with it for basing (that's the way I'm making ground and walls on my DIY terrain).
Hope you'll like the cheaper idea ;)
+WasteDawn I have some gesso. I'll have to try that out. Thanks for watching!
"Certainly NOT over a month later..."
Ah! Your wit and radio voice make it really easy to listen to your stuff. Appreciated. (Sorry, back-to-back fanboy comments, ha!)
You had me at, "His entire ass is missing." Subscribed!
FYI you can fill cracks waaaay easier, faster and cheaper by just filling the gap with super glue, sprinkle some baking soda over it, sand it down and presto! gap gone
although you're kinda limited to smooth surfaces, for anything with detail just take regular greenstuff
I use Elmer's glue, wipe the excess with my finger. It shrinks a little so depending on the gap it might take two coats. After priming and before painting, and it works really well!
Cheap ass lol
Liquid nurgle I hear you cry !!!!!
I can confirm the rust/tank effect does work really well. I accidentally stumbled across this when I badly filled in some gaps on my baneblade.
For gap filler that is thin enough to be applied with a brush, try Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer straight out of the bottle, or you can try Squadron White Putty thinned down with Tamiya Extra Thin cement.
i tend to use vallejo filler for smaller gaps, it doesn't shrink much if at all and has a fine nozzle for application, for larger gaps and short shots i break out the squadron green and thin it with a little lacquer thinner. for surface textures it has to be mr surfacer in its various grades.
I haven't tried that stuff, I'll have to look into it. Thanks for watching!
Sharpies Models Vallejo plastic putty has been pretty good to me but has a lil learning curve as any outside the gap or hole being filled can be a nuisance. But overall I do like it more than trying to be a bricklayer with green putty and a suitable spatula.
in the UK they send you or give you a replacement...
"His entire *ass* is missing..."
I lost it.
I know it's 2024 but does anyone know what that model is at 3:45? Cool vid years later btw!
It’s a Cairn Wraith from Games Workshop. I think they still sell it, but I’m not sure. Thanks for watching!
"make fine arse models with our green stuff " - GW
Hmm. An interesting adaptation. I have been doing some liquid filth experiments recently too. It's not a great gap filler, but because it's essentially a thickening agent it can be added to texture paints and layered over bases to provide a more malleable layer to play around with. I like the subtle finish on the wraith - you have created a level detail that cannot be achieved simply through fine casting - this is the benefit of smooth surfaces because they allow us to add our own interpretations and fine details.
A very good point about the smooth surfaces. Thanks for watching!
Liquid green stuff came out about two years before fine cast. Filling Gaps have always been part of model building. Before liquid green stuff I used bondo filler, which comes in a tube and is purchased at the automotive parts suppliers. I do agree that fine cast is one of the worst product that games workshop has shoved down the consumers throats.
"He's not dressed for success." Perfect.
Technically, I guess it depends on your definition of "success." Thanks for watching!
Had tp laugh out loud ar the gym at that line!!
I want someone to put a diorama together of a wraith going through a car wash now.
9 years later and this video is a great help! I bought some liquid green stuff to fill gaps on my models and was looking up how to use it and unexpectedly found this gem! I'm building an Eldar army that's supposed to be risen from the grave and the bikes/tanks are far too smooth, so happy to hear about this trick to add some texture!
Milliput did it first! i sometimes dissolve both half's of milliput in water untill you end up with somthing paint like then mix the two.
You can do a lot with that, you can even use it like resin for making castings of what ever you want to replicate. It dose shrink a bit sometimes no idea why other times it comes out fine; maybe alittle more porous for some people. But for casting/filling/covering what is meant to be cloth it is ideal.
one downside is that by mixing so much water into the model you can actually end up with water inside the miniature or whatever you've cast with it. It will evaporate in time however.
Daniel Chalmers Milliput is so versatile. I’ve sworn by it for 25 years and it’s never let me down.
I'm late to the part but... "he's not dressed for success." might be the best usage I have heard in context.
@tabletopminions: You can also paint over typhus corrosion to get a similar, but slightly different effect, than what you're talking about in this video. It looks pretty cool in some applications.
I think liquid green stuff actually works fine for filling in gaps. what you're supposed to over fill the gap a bit and then after it's dry lightly sand away the excess. I'd also recommend not wetting your brush prior to applying it since that'll thin it out a bit and probably cause even more contraction.
i've only recently found your channel (and i must say, it fills a long-needed niche in the youtube modeling community) and after watching your video about hoarding unpainted models, ive been listening/watching your videos one after another while i paint so i dont have to listen to myself think like i usually do, like a podcast.
Many people do that same thing, especially with the recordings of the live shows. Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the insight and the humor, well done!! For filling cracks and gaps in plastics I use a dental spatula and pack in acrylic Spackle and build it a bit higher than the plastic. It scrapes of quite easily and is very inexpensive. I use the putty Green Stuff on metal models. I just bought a bottle of the liquid Green Stuff to try to fasten an Amazon Blood Bowl team onto their bases. The tabs are tiny and I may wind up using the putty in the end.
Seven years since you made this video, and I just discover not only the video, but a use for a GW/Citadel product I've eschewed since it came on the market. Thanks! I think... ;)
That’s a great idea to use it for texturing. As for filling gaps, don’t thin it with water. Mush it into the gap and build it up so it’s higher than the gap. Let it dry then use ur knife to shave the excess and buff/smooth with fine sand paper.
In the past I have used white-based PVA mixed with a little fine plaster (Linka is ideal) as a thick filler. There is some shrinkage in large gaps but it does dry quickly and can be re-coated again to re-fill. It can be sanded and scraped. If you want extra texture I have also added very fine sand (very fine) or else talcum powder.
I never had any problems filling small gaps and seams (especially on the newer multipart plastic characters with all their undercuts and stuff) with Liquid Green Stuff - dab it on, let it dry for a few minutes, give it a quick sanding and it's done... it's also great to smoothen out some irregularities on casted surfaces, just thin it down real good and give it a quick brushing-over and a light sanding (especially on cloaks).
+Mr. Pilgrim I find that it shrinks so much, that it takes layer after layer to fill gaps. Maybe you got a good batch. Thanks for watching!
My best "liquid" Green Stuff is actually some stuff I got about 12 years ago. It is now all gummy and would qualify as a solid, but with a dab of water and a bit of squidging with the end of a paintbrush you get yourself something akin to 'slip' as you would use when bonding bits of clay.
To achieve this I needed to let it dry out for 8 years, but it is now totally worthwhile having around.
I've been trying to sculpt with the help of LGS. Didn't realise there'd be a bumpy texture to it dried though so bit sad about that. If you want to add texture that's slightly less noticeable, Typhus Corrosion also works.
I use it for space marine gaps closing the chest and back plate together.. It's also pretty cool for nurgle models
I never knew LIQUID greenstuff existed. I just use a bit of regular greenstuff and push it around with the brush from a bottle of liquid cement that I use only with greenstuff. The cement thins the greenstuff, fills gaps, creates texture as mentioned in the video if only thinned a little and can also be thinned more to leave as smooth or smoother a finish going on than anything I can achieve with other fillers by sanding. It makes good anti-slip surfaces and the appearance of cast metal parts on armored vehicles too. It does pay to have a well-ventilated are to work in though.
Bob Horning.
Has it really been 10 years?! I was trying out liquid green stuff, and I remembered that you made a video on it. Looked it up, but wow it’s been a long time since.
While I certainly value your information, a (sped up) demonstration would have been even more advantageous for all of us. I thank you for all that you do for us.
On the scale modeling front, something similar to this is done to create the texture of cast metal sections. There are a couple of different ways to do it but closer to the Liquid Green Stuff technique you mentioned is the use of modeling putty thinned down and blotched on with a stiff brush. You can even find modeling putty in green...
This is why I always prefer the green stuff putty for the resin and some plastic miniatures. You have more control when you use the sculpting tool to place the putty in the area or the model if you know how to use it well.
The liquid green stuff needs to be more of a paste with some moisture to last longer if not in use for over a year and where it needs to be stored to maintain it's moist for your next assembled models.
I don't have any liquid green stuff but after watching this, the texture reminded me of watercolor ground/gesso I use to paint watercolor on canvas. So I tried it and it had the same effect. I'm excited as this is a cheap solution that gave me a cool texture that I haven't even considered for miniature painting.
Something about the mood and tone of this old video I just love. Hilarious
It works if you roll it up and push it in then sand it flush with very fine grain but you gotta use more than you think when filling holes and gaps.
For filling gaps in plastics, try Squadron Putty. Citadel's Liquid Green Stuff is basically a copy of Squadron Green Putty - which contains a little bit of the solvent that works on the plastic (sort of like liquid cement). Squadron also makes a white putty which is better from my experience.
Interesting idea! I am going to have to try that on some of my Orks. I wanted to say though that I can tell you from experience that this stuff does work well for what it was intended for (although by no means does that justify the crime that was Finecast). I have actually used this as GW recommends to fix up one of the first runs of a Boss Zagstruck model in Finecast (Failcast). It does work great for filling in small air bubbles, filling in gaps, etc. although regular Green Stuff works fine too for this but it is a bit more tedious as you can't apply it with a brush. I use it on bad glue jobs just like this one all the time.
However my experience goes beyond simple bad fits. This Boss Zagstruck was pretty bad. I spent 8 hours repairing the shitty cast job which is by no means acceptable, Finecast was a flipping joke and I am happy to hear it is gone. Part of his chin was missing due to a massive air bubble. It was pretty much the whole left of his jaw just gone. I was actually able to not only fill the massive amount of air bubbles on the model with Liquid Greenstuff, I was able to glob it on that missing part of his chin and "re-sculpt" it with my brush. I little file work after it dried and it is not even noticeable.
The trick to using Liquid Green Stuff as it was intended is to apply it thick in my opinion. Not too thick but much thicker than any paint.
Good advice! I'll try it for some weathering on some rusty Ork vehicles, bought a can a while back but never got around to opening it
Give it a try, you might really like it. Thanks for watching!
I just subscribed. What made me subscribe was the line "He's not going to the ball!" Excellent!
I have used Liquid Greenstuff for what it's meant for before, but you have to do it a bit different tha how you use normal green stuff.
I always "cake" it on, and then scrape off the excess (LIGHTLY!), and it works.
I have used it for "painting" small details on models. It get's a bit rough, but you get cool effects on things like Ogres and Chaos. (Painting chaos stars etc)
+Magnus Ludvigsen (TheAurgelmir) Making textured details could be cool. I wonder if I could figure out a way to mask it, too. Thanks for watching!
+Tabletop Minions oooh, masking, now we are talking next level here! :P
I'm tempted to try that on a "flat" shield or something, maybe watering down the Greenstuff a tad to make it smoother as well.
I will also use it when I am attaching parts that are not going together well. Liquid Green Stuff plus CA glue makes a solid join, especially for different material parts(like resin and plastic or different company resin/plastics)
I've used regular green stuff to do that, but never the liquid stuff. I'll have to try it. Thanks for watching!
7 years late, but I use Milliput to fill gaps and voids. Takes a few trys to learn how to use it good, but once you get the hang of it. It changes so much!
Thanks for the demo. Inspiring.
Regards filling gaps and superfine modeling; I've often improvised tools out of wooden toothpicks or coffee stirrers. They can be cut or sanded to the shape needed. Dipped in water, drawing it up similarly to a brush which helps work regular green stuff more easlily, and because they're wood, no strength to mark or damage the surface of the model, plastic or pewter.
One of the best Wraiths I've ever seen... brilliant use of Green Stuff, I'll be sure to put it to use!
It's such a great model. Thanks for watching!
If you use normal green stuff and miniature sculpture tools, you can work the stuff in almost anywhere. I used to love Miliput back in the 90s for that.
Mix a small klot of light filler with a drop of color and a couple drops of water, apply pretty much the same way. Very nice for adding bigger textures to smooth spots, such as terrain and stuff. Might actually work on smooth models too.
Only 5 years late, but what a great idea! I think i will try think on a tank I have waiting to be painted/assembled.
Well, I did pick up some Liquid Green Stuff. I had the perfect project for it, "Shadows of Brimstone: City of the Ancients"... Man, some of the models in that game have pretty nasty gaps, even after filing everything down to fit right.
I was able to fill in the gaps much easier then with real Green Stuff. It took a little trial and error, however, the stuff works great if you're using it right.
One trick I developed was to put it on kind of thick. I'd then use my thumb or finger to clean off the excess by rubbing it towards the gap, not away. I'd let that sit for a min or so, then clean up around the edges with even a damp brush, or towel taking care not to get water where I didn't want it.
Really happy I caught this video in time to paint this board game... Too bad I didn't have this the other week for when I painted up "Shadows of Brimstone: Swamp of Death". Though the models in that one really don't need the green stuff like the other one does.
You present the video very well and simple unlike some who beat around the bush abit! The humour is awesome!
The liquid greenstuff is great for filth over models, however not a gap filler for most models. Again, that's why I mainly use the green stuff putty. This was a good idea for the filth effects on models.
Your meant to layer liquid green stuff on really thick into the gap and then after drying scrap away the excess that way it works really well
Also a great plastic filler is Perfect Plastic Putty by Deluxe Materials. Also Mr Surfacer 500 and a stippling brush can achieve some great effects on cloth to show frail or texture material.
Liquitex flexible modeling paste works great to fill gaps.
+Munson X I'll look for it at my local art store. Thanks for watching!
What about a rough paintbrush, to make fur detail/textures?
+, I left you a comment. That might work out. Thanks for watching!
Just tried this trick out on a Deathguard Bloat drone and it worked a treat, thanks alot!
Great stuff Atom. And I agree, the liquid GS hasn't ever worked as intended for me either.
I know its an old video but i would like ta say that varnish (brush on/airbrush) is great for filing gaps.
Most of my liquid green stuff ended up in the trash. I had several sealed pots and when I opened them up they were completely dry. Lesson learned so I stayed using the two part putty.
My luck hasn't been that bad on Liquid Green Stuff, but I think I did have one older pot dry out on me. Thanks for watching!
I now know that wraith better then my own friends... lol
😂😂
That is a great idea and that "6 minute" lapse was funny you can sure get a lot done in a short period of time I envy you!
I kind of wonder if the "Liquid Green Stuff" wouldn't do well over normal "Green Stuff". In my limited experience filling in gaps, I find I always end up with less then even gap coverage. I'm thinking the liquid green stuff would work well as a filler for that.
I might have to pick some of this up.
Just got a Sylvaneth Tree Lord and wanted to use this technique to give him a mossy look
+All Systems Go! It would work pretty well, I'll bet. I've started stippling with a toothpick (cut the point off) and it works well. Thanks for watching!
My trick for gaps is blue tac (or white) and a toothpick ^^
I now want a bottle of that stuff. Amazing work, thanks.
+Ether ealist It's a staple of my hobby kit. Thanks for watching!
i've never liked green stuff, never really tried liquid green stuff. This might seem kinda gross but I use the ash from my smokes, salt,flour all sorts of effects can be achieved but randomly dabbing glue or paint an just flinging random grime at your models..... i made a blood letter demon cutting a zombie in half...the zombie is in two pieces flying through the air, by glueing a strand or hair between the two pieces an then globing it woth red paint i got an amazing "flying gore splatter"
it won me $200 in shwag from a local shops paint/sculptung comp.
+RH Cannon Honestly, I've heard of people using cigarette ash for that very reason before, so you're not the only one. Thanks for watching!
I'll try this to add some texture to some camo cloaks I'm making
I honestly just use some clay to fill in gaps and that seems to do a decent job. I'm not sure what kind of clay it is though, I've had it for so long I've forgotten.
Many clays shrink as they dry. Have you had trouble with that? Thanks for watching!
So far no, I just used it to fill in a gap on my IG sniper's cloak. So the brown clay fits with the camo at least but so far no shrinkage.
Been messing with sculpting lately myself, and by sculpting, I mean actual out-right "Well... I built an armature, and let's do this', been using Azone 1/12th sized dolls as the base for two greater daemons I am making (Keeper of Secrets to look like the old-sexy tentacle-haired daemonettes; and a Lady of Change to be a be-robed, be-beaked, tentacle-horror-thing), 40k for preference... Been having a little difficulty with the 'fine detail' stuff... I saw this, thought about it, and this is GREAT depending on what you want it to do... great for 'building up' if watered down enough, making the 'edge' of things, or building up folds of skin to go over foot-talons, and so on. It shrinks more or less depending on how much water put in, and it is a learning process. ^.^
I use Armageddon dust, Sirland Mud or the concrete one, whatever that's called essentially all three are the same thing different colors. I apply the same type of texture with those. they are much more liquid easier to adjust the grains on the models. idk but the little can of filth is a great idea. I'll try it out 100% cause I have a can I haven't opened to might as well do something with it.
You could also try games workshop's typhus corrosion. Its a fairly thin paint that leaves really small granules of "sand". With a simple dry brush you can make the texture pop from the model. I used it personally on my cairn wraith for texture and I think it looks great.
+SweaterJhon I own a pot of that, its neat stuff. Thanks for watching!
Is it thin enough to put in a syringe? Would be interesting to be able to do a bead of greenstuff... like cake frosting...
Mr. Surfacer 500 (and 1000) are much better, and pretty much the only thing needed at this scale. Liquid filler is intended to fill small gaps (that's why its liquid). Spending time with dry fits is important. Even poor models can be fixed, or at least improved drastically so less fillers are needed. Liquid filler will shrink , but small gaps can be filled effectively with one coat if used correctly. The big advantage using it over paste fillers is that it is 'sculptable' with a paintbrush, so you can preserve details. At this scale with modern miniatures it's the only filler I use.
Taimya makes a great gap filler, a bit weird to get used to but it works great.
+TheWikingWarrior I'll have to look into it. Thanks for watching!
The final model looks great despite the green stuff not working in the way you had anticipated. Just out of curiosity what did you end up using to patch the "zipper" in the Wraith model? Great vid btw.
that's a nice effect. Have you tried using the actual texture paints that GW made for basing?
Only the crackle paint for basing. The textured stuff I've only used for mud on tank treads. Thanks for watching!
Next time you have a gap.. Try DAS air dry modeling clay mixed with super glue. It works wonders and you can form it. Not as well as the green stuff but it doesn't shrink.
It works great for gap filling. You just need to apply it with a tiny trowel. I mean like really slap that goop on there and then sand off the excess.
In the video for liquid green stuff that GW produced for LGS they say that it will shrink and to do two thin coats but I will try it on a future death guard army at some
Point
Now in my 30's, I'm coming back to Warhammer after almost 20 years without touching a single mini ... my plan: to build a Deathrattle army. The models are cool but I thought they were missing something : Dirt ! Mold ! Rust ! Rot !
I was looking for a magic trick to make them look the way I like (since my painting skill must have dropped drastically ). Your video blew my mind, and now I can't wait to pimp these Grave Guards ! Thanks :)
Ive never used either but I want to try some soon. I was just wondering if you can mix the liquid and regular green stuff? maybe that would work better for filling.
I am in love with that model. Warhammer has such amazing sculpts.
Yeah, he's part of the reason I'm building a Death army for Age of Sigmar. Thanks for watching!
Just a thought, what about using it for imitating that bony organic look of Eldar armour in the latest DoW3 trailer?
It might work. I've been using it on Vampire Counts capes, too. Thanks for watching!
Or on tyranids
Gonna go to my local GW and ask for a 'little can of filth' and see what they say.
Works pretty great for getting a nice dirt texture on bases too.
Great video =D I'm glad I came across this video before I bought a pot of this to fill gaps. However your idea for texturing the models is fantastic! Great video and channel mate :) Subscribed =D
Wow! You gotta love those happy little accidents. Bob Ross was really on to something there.
when it comes to finecast fromwhat ive heard from people who do some of their own moulding with resin is that much of the defect issues with finecast isnt so much the material as it is that they are trying to mass produce something that needs more time to cure than pewter did.
i can understand why they switched so quickly as at the time metals were starting to go up and price and we gamers were already pissing about cost, but looks as tho finecast was there to fill the void until they went full plastic which honestly i can handle that hiccup to get an all plastic line.
+wakcedout I didn't hate Finecast at the time, as I was playing mostly Nurgle, so some extra pitting and such was unnoticeable. Thanks for watching!
Tabletop Minions i knew a lot of people that did, i will admit that with necrons it became hard to tell what was a meant hole and what was air bubble but GW going to all plastic is still nice.
and hey gotta find a new use for liquid greenstuff and sometimes it is easier to use it to fill small gaps that even plastic is subject to.
How does it do with small bubbles in the casting?
Found your videos a few days ago, thanks for all the advice. Keep up the good work 👍
This video make me think to an other use for the Texture range of paint like Astrogranite or Stirland Mud. I used it for my army of nurgle chaos'warrior. you can use it on some parts of the armor plates to add corrosion texture or on the skin to make nice group of bubbons and bubbling rotting flesh. It's not yet painted, but it already look good on the plastic!