Axial SCX10 II clone upgrades (installing a track bar on Austar chassis)
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- Опубліковано 28 січ 2020
- On the last video, I went over the china scx10 ii axial chassis clone. Its called the Austar or Injora 313mm chassis and I got it off ebay for $100. I am adding a track bar or panhard bar in this video to improve performance.
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Had to watch it like 5 times but just did mine today gotta follow every step and works like a charm.
Had to buy a 15.5mm servo horn but got it done ✅
Very helpful video
Glad it helped!
Great video, thanks. I just finished doing this to mine and it worked great. I used the link I removed, cut it down and re-tapped the threads to make it into the track bar.
Great video man. Very thoroughly detailed appreciate it
I did a simple bump steer delete on it. Just mount the servo below the usual mount. No extras needed just screw it in under where you normally would on the same mount and that completely fixed it for me. The servo is a lil bit more visible but i run scale rigs so my standards for that are pretty high and it looks fine.
Pardon, how?
@@Stodgyaban_ hard to explain. Litterally just mount servo below the traditional mounts. No extras needed it is simple. Moves the servo down decreasing bump steer.
@@keqrou but it still doesn’t fix 100% ?
@@Stodgyaban_ 99%
@@keqrou great
Great video man very helpful I was about to throw my car across the room because I couldn't figure it out and then I watched your video for 4 minutes and figured it all out thank you so much i hope mine works great now
Glad I can help!
Great video weather you have Chinese or Axial you explain bump steer very well and why a track bar is needed with a 3 link 🤙
Thank you!
Odds and Ends RC your welcome
Congrats man one real video thats if very well explain.
Thanks!
very important that the draglink and trackbar are at the same angle, if not, you're going to get bump steer.
Great explanations! I’ve a similar chassis but having no panhard bar create mor issues than only bump steering... the car doesn’t steer well in one side because the servo pushes first the whole axle before the wheel!!! I haven’t hear of that much.... 🤔 weird?
Great video! I did part of it from the beginning since the hole steering its invested. How did you managed to reduce the stock rare camber angle on the front wheels?
I shortened the upper link to swing the drive shaft angle down, this helped alot, but you kinda get what you pay for with these things, 10 ii axles is a much better upgrade for it since they are adjustable
This is the first video I’ve see where someone explains rather well how to properly setup a Panhard/3-link suspension. Questions; 1. Ideally the steering link should be the same length as th track bar? 2. Which upper link should I remove? I’ve seen most will remove the driver side link. You did the opposite. Does it makes a difference?
In a perfect world, the steering link and the track bar should be the same length and parallel to each other at the same angle, but the way these are designed you can't always do that. Just try to get it close and adjust as needed. It doesn't matter which upper link you remove, unless you use a off center differential like I do in a newer video when I install the ssd axles.
I've heard that before about the 3 Link with Panhard.... Can't remember where!
It's worth the extra couple of bucks for an Aluminum Mount. 😉 No way you could have put a Spacer on the Plastic Axial Shock Hoops, to move out the Track Bar forward. Would have twisted the Plastic, and possibly snapped.
95mm is about the maximum heighth you'd ever want.
..... But there's always the "Flex Friday" Guys!! 😜
The axle was alot more forward on the clone than a real scx10 ii. If it would have been in the same spot, I wouldnt have had to use a spacer. I will have to change everything to fit the jeep body anyway.
I keep hearing that there's quite a few differences, some major, in the Clone.
I'd still want one.
Great explanation. Not much detailed info out there on these SCXII clones. Thinking about picking one up to mess around with.
I recommend spending a little more money and getting the scx10 ii builders kit. It's a better quality platform to start from in my opinion. The ssd trail king is even better but more pricey
great vid m8 youve explained what i was thginking lol
Thanks!
Bellissimo, potresti dirmi che tipo di barre hai usato ?
so im running 110mm shocks on the same clone chassis in the video would i need to use a 110mm track bar, i did all the same things you did step by step
Mine came with this axle with a trx4 2 speed transmission and 3 link set up?.. the top link is on the passenger side. Would the geometry still work for mine? Thank for this video.
Was wondering thank you
I tried to swap axle hubs but they are notched to stop them from rotating. How did you put the left on the right and vice versa?
Great video, I have one of these too,which I want to rework. Question-would the servo mounted to the axle not be a simpler and better solution? And if no, why? I have to order parts including new metal shock towers but am thinking of going the servo mounted route.
If you have the room in the chassis when the suspension is compressed and the servo won't hit anything above, it should work for you. The chassis mounted servo allows for more room and a more realistic look to their full size counter parts.
@@oddsandendsrc Thanks for your reply. Room isn't an issue, I have a heavily modded LWB Land Rover hard body that it matches up to, this will be a trail truck, no rock crawler. Prefer the chassis mount for neatness but I can see, like you, that there is room for improvement! Will watch your vid again and decide which way to do it. Thanks again for posting, subbed.
Is it as simple as switching the hubs from one side to the other, or did you need a new passenger side hub? I thought I heard "switch"....(I'm a noob). Also, did you make the 95mm track arm or purchase it? BTW, I have zero clue as to what I am doing. I can't even tell you very much about F150 FX4 truck.
I plan on leaving my truck stock when it cornea to suspension so does anyone know how long I should make the link
can i not have a chassis mounted servor for my austar chassis?
Subscribed!
Idk of you will see this but I have just ordered one of these I have no electronics and it's my first it comes with a motor but idk what to run on electronics. But definitely subscribing bud
If your on a budget, I recommend the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 esc, its usually under 20 bucks on ebay or Amazon. If you dont have a radio I recommend the Flysky gt3c, a great budget radio with alot of options. Usually under 50 bucks on ebay or amazon.
@@oddsandendsrc thank you I really appreciate it
Thanks for the great video! I got one and dont know what shock tower suits with this chassis. I bought one but it doesnt fit with the chassis. Could you share where you buy this shock tower?
Being the chassis is made so cheap, quality is not the best. I have 3 of them, 1 I used in the videos and 2 others. The 1st one I used the STRC scx10 ii ones and they fit perfect. The 2nd one I built, it was like the frame rails were fatter and the STRC tower didnt want to fit. I used a dremel on the shock tower and ground on it till it would fit the frame rail.
Odds and Ends RC Thanks mate
Where you get the links for the pan hard?
Hola, en primer lugar gracias por el video. Mi pregunta es......si no se puede colocar la barra panhard en el otro lado con un soporte?????. Gracias.
It has to be moved to the passenger side because the axial and other aftermarket branded shock towers only have the panhard mount on the drivers side.
@@oddsandendsrc Gracias por tu respuesta... Un saludo.
Great video! One question: why does it need to be on the right side? Thank you for the video.
The shock towers you buy only have the mount for the track bar on the left side, thats why I had to move the c-hub with the mount to the right.
@@oddsandendsrc thank you my friend
I have the Injora Clone, with the motor in the front. I shortened and longer steering and panhard link, but it steer a little bit when the shocks are fully extend. I also longer the upper link by 2mm and the lower ones by 5mm to get my clearance and wheelbase. Does this effect anything? I'm a little bit confused. Does the position of the servo effect anything? I was forced to put him further back, maybe 5mm.
The steering link and panhard link need to be close to the same angle, if one is angled more than the other one it throws everything off. It's a game of trial and error. Also remember to remove one of the upper links if you haven't already.
The Injora clone have a 3 link system with panhardbar @@oddsandendsrc
Hi, thanks for the video, very helpful. I was wondering if Axial scx10 ii diff covers will fit this kit. Thanks
No, they are a little different
Looks like the entire diff/axle will slot right in just fine though, probably not a bad idea to just swap over once something breaks
You could just buy the ar44 axles housings and swap the injora internals over. Housings are cheap.
thank you for your info is very beneficial 👍🇲🇾👍🇲🇾👍🇲🇾
No problem!
Do you take out 1 of the rear links as well, like you did for the front one.
No, the rear keeps all 4
Strc part #, jeep body is very hard to mount n been cutting most of floor out. Beware .
The STRC part # is STA31380FGM. The Jeep hard body requires the SSD scale transmission or a forward mount tranny with a transfer case to get it to sit low on the frame without chopping the floor.
That single non simetrical top link messes with my OCD 😱🤣
Just because you were asking, 😉 Panhard-Levassor was one of the earliest car makers, and Rene Panhard invented that bar or rod to stabilise their own vehicle's suspension way back in the 1920s! A genius move for sure! And here's a car they were selling right before WW2 happened, en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Panhard_et_Levassor_Dynamic#/media/File:Panhard_Et_Levassor.jpg Crazy but cool right?
Now, how are you going to address the horrible caster angle? Since you cant clock the hub mounts, the caster is really bad in stock form
I shortened the upper link to swing the pinion angle down to straight. That took care of alot of it, but the best thing you can do, is take these axles out and throw them in the trash! Lol. Replace them with 10 ii axles or equivalent, they are adjustable.
How do you switch the panhard mount from right to left axle?
Take them apart and switch them
the bolt that goes through the axle fitting for the Trackbar, is it a 3mm dia? the hole that it has mine is quite small for a 3mm to go through.
It's supposed to be, but with these China clones, sometimes things are off a little. You might try running a 3mm tap through it.
@@oddsandendsrc but the bolt that you used was a 3mm dia, right?
@@ripmax333 I just checked and it is, but if yours don't want to go, don't force it. I have had 3 of these, sometimes they forget to drill holes, or drill them to small, you might need to drill it out a little.
@@oddsandendsrc that what I’m going to do, drill a 2.5mm hole or slightly bigger a use a 3mm bolt. I asked because i didn’t know if there are rod -ends that use smaller dia bolts. And without the track bar, does the axle goes side to side because of slop through the rods balljoints?
@@ripmax333 most rod ends use a 3mm hole. After you remove one of the upper links, the axle will move from side to side without the track bar. The track bar makes it solid.
Does the length of panhard & steerinh link are necessarily the same length?
They are usually close, the angle of both needs to be close also
@@oddsandendsrc understood sir. Thank you very much for the tips. Appreciate that so much👍🏻
This chassis is really cheap like only 70 right now, if i wanted to buy it just as a basher because its so cheap and not do any crawling would it be fine stock? Thank you!
If you were easy on it, but it won't take the abuse of an axial
@@oddsandendsrc thank you!
The caster is negative... How do you get it positive?
Shorten the upper link a little
Hi. I have 3 link setup but i got strange problem. When car is on ground and i turn the wheels to full left and full right then my chassis lean to left or to right. What can be the problem?
Did you install the track bar?
@@oddsandendsrc Yes i did. Can we talk ower whatsapp or discord? So i can apply photos or video.
@@trebor1477 I do not have those. It sounds like your track bar and your steering link are not the same lengths, or at the same angle. If you or a friend has a stock scx10 ii laying around, take a look at how the track bar and steering links are the same length and angle.
@@oddsandendsrc angle is prfect but lenght is little diferent for7mm diference. But funny thing i allready got it in working order. But i went from 270mm to 310mm and i use this yota axles. Ok panhard mounts are DIY. But it was working before. That is strange. And the only diference is longer chassis and front links.
@@trebor1477 When you moved the front axle forward, you changed the geometry of the track bar and steering link. you will need to move the chassis panhard mount forward also.
how did you change of the track bar mount on axle, from left to the right position?
You can switch it from one side to the other.
@@oddsandendsrc it just used screw?
@@lzkids3431 it has been a while since I did that, I no longer have those axles, but it was very simple I think there was just a screw or two that holds it on. You just take them off and switch sides.
@@oddsandendsrc thanks for your help sir. maybe sometimes you will make video for upgrade plug n play parts to metal for scx10 ii.
@@lzkids3431 It gets fully upgraded in newer videos. look for the yellow and orange jeep
RcMudder here plz let me know when you do stuff to your clone its helping me out
Fitting it to a Jeep hard body right now. Waiting on parts, will post a video on it soon.
Did you run this car ? What can you say to the performance? Is it any good or crab?
You get what you pay for. Shocks were too stiff and locking up, poor front end geometry. Plastic gears in the tranny. I upgraded everything except for the frame in newer videos. If it will get very light use, might be ok, buy name brand if you want full potential.
@@oddsandendsrc Fully understood ;-) Unfortunately the good kits are quiet expensive here in Germany. Element, Gen8 or SCX10ii kits cost roughly €250+...do you have an recommendation . good value kit, not for competition, but should have potential from the beginning?
Scx10 ii builders kit if you want just the chassis, its $200, or a scx10 ii deadbolt rtr, its $300 ready to go.
I'm about to buy some links to do this.. is it 95mm from eye to eye or is that without rod ends?
It was 95 from eye to eye. remember, if you have taller shocks it will be longer, shorter shocks and it will be shorter. Just fiddle with it till the axle is center.
@@oddsandendsrc I've got the stock shocks on it.. thanks for the help!
‘Track arm’ = panhard rod
in the offroad world its a track bar.
same piece, different terminology.
Justin BeVier got it...
great video but why so negative ,we all can't afford top end stuff
Sorry if I came off sounding negative. Most china knockoffs will end up costing more money in the long run because of low quality parts used in these will fail quickly.
@@oddsandendsrc yes I understand and getting stuff in UK is hard ,but you would be surprised on how strong the gears are in the gearbox if you pack it with lithium grease ,apart from the crappy shocks mine is super
Castor is baaaad