Good content, as usual. Another guy I watch is Mike Haduck who is a masonry UA-camr. Very informative and therapeutic, but, as he likes to say, "he's not gonna be winning any awards." Anyway, he has a technique he uses that I find intriguing. He screws the frame into the wood header if there is one. He then puts little 3/4" screws just barely into the frame for the mortar to hold onto. He then fills the void with mortar and finishes it. He explains how you need to we your surfaces first or apply a cement paint, otherwise it won't stick. I recently did a job where I removed the steel bucks. On that job, I made new PVC buckframes to set the windows into and foamed the PVC buckframes in. I then trimed it out with butt jointed PVC trim boards. It was overkill but the customer liked it. Removing steel bucks is not for quitters or the faint of heart. The Corners are the hardest. Looking at another job with brick sides, steel lintel on top and an angled concrete foundation on the bottom. The existing windows are steel and mortared in. I think I may do a more Haduckesque install. The top is steel, so no screws. The sides are brick, and who knows how that will hold up to screws. And there is no real boom. Going full on masonry is probably the best bet.
Great video Rob. I work in the DC area and the most common scenario I've encountered is walls that are 12" to 16" thick with the windows being recessed to the inside. So we normally hold the replacements as far in as possible to keep them away from rain and water sheathing down the wall face. Several times I've trimmed the exteriors with PVC trim boards that are held in place with a combination hot melt glue and quad caulk. It works good and it usually conceals the old caulk line wich looks good and clean.
That is exactly how I have d ne this work in the past - last time 30 years ago and need to re-do - the newest part is the foam. thx - great video - on target
Very in depth video and as a carpenter myself I can see that you know what you are talking about, this video is spot on! Thanks for making great videos and teaching the public the right way of doing things!
I just replaced a couple of 50 year old windows in my basement. I was able to find a window supplier on the internet that specializes in retrofit window inserts for houses with old steel bucks. In my house's case, the steel bucks were made by Kewaunee and were an odd size 31x11.5". This window supplier had all the information to help identify the manufacturer of my steel buck and had really nice double pane vinyl and aluminum window options. He's right, if the steel bucks are not rusted through, you are better off just painting the steel and finding replacements. We love the new double pane vinyl windows that replaced the leaky old single pane aluminum insert windows. I don't want to come off like a shill for the company that sold me the windows so I'll omit it but I'd be happy to share it for those that need windows.
Good video Rob. Just did a window like that at my daughters house and repaired the sill and a beam. Either the builder or someone else didn’t put a door exiting the rear of the basement and decided to make one by busting out the concrete to make the opening. There was no header below the sill plate and they made the opening right in the middle of where the sill plate had a seam where the sill plate wasn’t long enough and they used another board to finish the sill plate. Normally not a problem but since they cut (correction... they busted out the concrete which they tried to patch the left side of the concrete wall with broken pieces of brick and mortar. Had to repair that too!) the concrete out up to the sill plate and the first floor wall was dipping and the wall was cracking I had to jack it up and repair it and a cracked beam. What a job. Maybe next time I suggest not buying a house she will listen?? 😊
Been replacing my own windows that were the same as the one that you ripped out... however, they were already re-done sometime in the late 90's seems like. They ordered the windows to fit into the original wooden framing of the original windows. Ever see basement windows with an 8" frame (combination of original and remodel) surrounding the actual sliding insert? 24x36" window roughin, with only 14.5x27" glass space. 😂
Good explanation! It's obvious you know what you're doing. I can't believe all of the idiots doing DIY installations. I'm sooo glad I bought my house long before the internet was here.
is there any reason why you diid the insulation around the window before the mortar? Can I do the mortar first? I have successfully put three windows in with your instructions and now I just have to finish mortar and insulation. Very grateful for the info.
Thanks, I’m working on mine today. Where did you get that foam sprayer nozzle? Also, how did you attach through the metal lintel? I see you ran screws but I’m assuming you predrilled the metal?( not mention)
Damn, great video. Took me a long time to find a video talking about the mortar application. It would be great if you mentioned the mortar product used..? Thanks, well done!
Use Rapidset! Either "mortar mix" AKA the red bag (≈$18.00) or "cement all" aka the blue bag (≈$26.00) they set really fast so mix just a little at a time and/or buy "set control" (≈$2.00) it's a tiny bag you put in the mix to slow the curing time just a bit.. They're both available at any H-Depot. Good luck ✌🏻
The one with least amount of psi strength, as all mortar expands and contracts. If you have a old home and used type S to fill/repair mortar joints between bricks, it will eventually expand with a high psi and cause spalling.
Top and bottom. Doesnt hurt to add some screws to the sides too. If you cant find 1/2" smaller than your opening you can add wood around and go even smaller
Dude your channel is seriously top notch! This video was *EXTREMELY* helpful for me.. THANKS! ✌🏻😎🤙🏻 **PS I like the tool reviews, but this DiY video is on point much better then the tool videos 👍🏻 there's literally MILLIONS of tool review vids out there! And millions of hack job DiY videos.. a very well edited, informative, no tacky music, adult/mature diy video is a REFRESHING change. Thanks again & take care ✌🏻
I'm actually wanting to replace an ugly wood square they used instead of a window on two sides of the basement. Anything special to consider in that situation?
Hi Robert. Nice video. When you attached the window to the sill plate with anchors, did you first apply any caulking, or just screw it directly on? If no caulking, how did you ensure it was water tight? Not sure how you would've squeezed the foam in there
I have windows just like these but I don't want to replace them, they just won't close all the way. Do you think sanding the wood down a little to get them to close would be ok?
I have a basement, cement fountain..no window. How much would it cost to install a window big enough to hold like a basic 5000btu ac? Even a ball park figure please
I have a 1933 Sears kit home. It HAD the original basement windows. The metal frames were rusted and they couldn't open. In the summer the basement was cool and dry. In the winter, I put batting in the well and the basement was warm. Soooo... I had them replaced. The (idiots) that replaced them told me that they couldn't get the size (a lie) so they framed in the opening with (supposedly) pressure treated wood, then place the windows in, made an attempt at spray foam, though some windows I saw daylight through and refoamed myself.... Truth- they wanted the job done NOW, and had to buy off the shelf on their HD credit card. Custom fit would've taken longer. Anyway.... my basement is humid as he!! this summer and cold as he!! last winter. The window brand? Home Depots cheapest sliders. My question is... does the wood framing make a difference in temps of basement? Oh, and they didn't caulk around the frame on the exterior. I ended up doing that, but the 1/4" gap keeps needing to be recaulked. Electric bill is through the roof with basement heat rising to first floor and a dehumidifier constantly running in basement. Could it be the windows? And why would anyone put sliders for a basement? Track gets filled with junk (leaves, etc). SMH
@@ronh9384 enough water, and a few protrudingscrews should be enough to hold new concrete to old....the key is to soak the old mortar so it doesn't pull moisture out of your new mix.
I just replaced my basmemt window. The rough opening was s bit weird and there was really no easy way to fasten it to the masonary as the old mortar was cumbling. I ended up shimming it and jusy foam. It has been pretty solid. Id love to fasten it but sometimes it is not possible
I will not replace any basement windows if the homeowner is going to use or rent the basement without putting a full size window on the opposite side of a exiting door in case of a house fire so no one will be trapped
I followed this for 2 basement windows and the installs went flawlessly. Thanks!
Watched this when it came out, have four to do this weekend - it’s still a great refresher.
Great explanation and tutorial. Much appreciated!
Finally, someone explains how to do this task correctly, simply. Thank you sir. Much appreciated for the advice.
Thanks
Good content, as usual. Another guy I watch is Mike Haduck who is a masonry UA-camr. Very informative and therapeutic, but, as he likes to say, "he's not gonna be winning any awards." Anyway, he has a technique he uses that I find intriguing. He screws the frame into the wood header if there is one. He then puts little 3/4" screws just barely into the frame for the mortar to hold onto. He then fills the void with mortar and finishes it. He explains how you need to we your surfaces first or apply a cement paint, otherwise it won't stick.
I recently did a job where I removed the steel bucks. On that job, I made new PVC buckframes to set the windows into and foamed the PVC buckframes in. I then trimed it out with butt jointed PVC trim boards. It was overkill but the customer liked it.
Removing steel bucks is not for quitters or the faint of heart. The Corners are the hardest.
Looking at another job with brick sides, steel lintel on top and an angled concrete foundation on the bottom. The existing windows are steel and mortared in. I think I may do a more Haduckesque install. The top is steel, so no screws. The sides are brick, and who knows how that will hold up to screws. And there is no real boom. Going full on masonry is probably the best bet.
Just bought my first home and this video was a perfect intro to one of my first DIY projects. Thanks so much!
Great video Rob. I work in the DC area and the most common scenario I've encountered is walls that are 12" to 16" thick with the windows being recessed to the inside. So we normally hold the replacements as far in as possible to keep them away from rain and water sheathing down the wall face. Several times I've trimmed the exteriors with PVC trim boards that are held in place with a combination hot melt glue and quad caulk. It works good and it usually conceals the old caulk line wich looks good and clean.
That is exactly how I have d ne this work in the past - last time 30 years ago and need to re-do - the newest part is the foam. thx - great video - on target
Some great tips! Preparing to install my first window now and this definitely answered a lot of questions. Thank you!
Very in depth video and as a carpenter myself I can see that you know what you are talking about, this video is spot on! Thanks for making great videos and teaching the public the right way of doing things!
Thank you for the compliment
I just replaced a couple of 50 year old windows in my basement. I was able to find a window supplier on the internet that specializes in retrofit window inserts for houses with old steel bucks. In my house's case, the steel bucks were made by Kewaunee and were an odd size 31x11.5". This window supplier had all the information to help identify the manufacturer of my steel buck and had really nice double pane vinyl and aluminum window options. He's right, if the steel bucks are not rusted through, you are better off just painting the steel and finding replacements. We love the new double pane vinyl windows that replaced the leaky old single pane aluminum insert windows. I don't want to come off like a shill for the company that sold me the windows so I'll omit it but I'd be happy to share it for those that need windows.
I'd like the name of the company if you don't mind.
What’s the company name?
You covered everything I faced today. Thanks for the direct matter of fact presentation
I watched your video yesterday and installed a window today! Thanks!
I have 5 small windows like the wood one in this video. After a couple estimates of 10-12k I am seriously considering doing it myself. Great video 👏👏
LOL WHAAAATTTT???
Punch the guy!
Good video Rob. Just did a window like that at my daughters house and repaired the sill and a beam. Either the builder or someone else didn’t put a door exiting the rear of the basement and decided to make one by busting out the concrete to make the opening. There was no header below the sill plate and they made the opening right in the middle of where the sill plate had a seam where the sill plate wasn’t long enough and they used another board to finish the sill plate. Normally not a problem but since they cut (correction... they busted out the concrete which they tried to patch the left side of the concrete wall with broken pieces of brick and mortar. Had to repair that too!) the concrete out up to the sill plate and the first floor wall was dipping and the wall was cracking I had to jack it up and repair it and a cracked beam. What a job. Maybe next time I suggest not buying a house she will listen?? 😊
Great video! Clean, simple, and overlay with you talking and showing is really cool
Been replacing my own windows that were the same as the one that you ripped out... however, they were already re-done sometime in the late 90's seems like. They ordered the windows to fit into the original wooden framing of the original windows. Ever see basement windows with an 8" frame (combination of original and remodel) surrounding the actual sliding insert? 24x36" window roughin, with only 14.5x27" glass space. 😂
Good explanation! It's obvious you know what you're doing. I can't believe all of the idiots doing DIY installations. I'm sooo glad I bought my house long before the internet was here.
Great video. I like how you kept it short and simple.
Excellent information, succinct, no BS. Thank you!
Awesome and thorough video!
This was exactly what we needed. Thankyou
Thanks for this. Very helpful.
I'd like to say thank you for a excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Exactly what I needed. Thanks!!!!
Great video Robert, Thank you for sharing.
is there any reason why you diid the insulation around the window before the mortar? Can I do the mortar first? I have successfully put three windows in with your instructions and now I just have to finish mortar and insulation. Very grateful for the info.
How did you do it? I have two windows I need to fill in.
He needed something to grab the mortar...otherwise the mortar would keep filling the whole space.
Great video. This is my next project x5
Right on!
Thanks, I’m working on mine today. Where did you get that foam sprayer nozzle? Also, how did you attach through the metal lintel? I see you ran screws but I’m assuming you predrilled the metal?( not mention)
thanks for the tips!
Damn, great video. Took me a long time to find a video talking about the mortar application. It would be great if you mentioned the mortar product used..? Thanks, well done!
Use Rapidset! Either "mortar mix" AKA the red bag (≈$18.00) or "cement all" aka the blue bag (≈$26.00) they set really fast so mix just a little at a time and/or buy "set control" (≈$2.00) it's a tiny bag you put in the mix to slow the curing time just a bit.. They're both available at any H-Depot. Good luck ✌🏻
What type of mortar do you use to fill in the gaps? I'm reading that mortar has different types such as N, M, S, ect.
The one with least amount of psi strength, as all mortar expands and contracts. If you have a old home and used type S to fill/repair mortar joints between bricks, it will eventually expand with a high psi and cause spalling.
Order it a 1/2 in smaller but I can't even find the window dimensions I need in the first place. Also, you only drill in one side of the window?
Top and bottom. Doesnt hurt to add some screws to the sides too. If you cant find 1/2" smaller than your opening you can add wood around and go even smaller
My basement has poured concrete walls and steel buck. How do you attach a new window with the steel buck in place?
Dude your channel is seriously top notch! This video was *EXTREMELY* helpful for me.. THANKS! ✌🏻😎🤙🏻
**PS I like the tool reviews, but this DiY video is on point much better then the tool videos 👍🏻 there's literally MILLIONS of tool review vids out there! And millions of hack job DiY videos.. a very well edited, informative, no tacky music, adult/mature diy video is a REFRESHING change. Thanks again & take care ✌🏻
Thanks so much! Excellent concise info.
So no screws on the bottom and sides only the top? How do you get the mortar in a very small crack on the sides is there a special tool?
great video ...
Thanks
Great, thanks Rob!
-Adam
Thank you. Very Helpful
well done..
Thanks for the knowledge Sir
I'm actually wanting to replace an ugly wood square they used instead of a window on two sides of the basement. Anything special to consider in that situation?
Hi Robert. Nice video. When you attached the window to the sill plate with anchors, did you first apply any caulking, or just screw it directly on? If no caulking, how did you ensure it was water tight? Not sure how you would've squeezed the foam in there
My basement windows casement in wood frame we removed them, and replaced with glass block
You used concrete screws, but did you pre drill with the window in place?
Do you need tapcon screws in the side to secure it to the concrete, or is door/window expanding foam around 3 sides enough?
Both
I have windows just like these but I don't want to replace them, they just won't close all the way. Do you think sanding the wood down a little to get them to close would be ok?
Wood is possibly warped
I have a basement, cement fountain..no window. How much would it cost to install a window big enough to hold like a basic 5000btu ac? Even a ball park figure please
$12,500
@fredhammer6413 whoa..I'll suffer w the heat. Can't afford that one lol ty for the reply tho 😊
I have a 1933 Sears kit home. It HAD the original basement windows. The metal frames were rusted and they couldn't open. In the summer the basement was cool and dry. In the winter, I put batting in the well and the basement was warm. Soooo... I had them replaced. The (idiots) that replaced them told me that they couldn't get the size (a lie) so they framed in the opening with (supposedly) pressure treated wood, then place the windows in, made an attempt at spray foam, though some windows I saw daylight through and refoamed myself.... Truth- they wanted the job done NOW, and had to buy off the shelf on their HD credit card. Custom fit would've taken longer. Anyway.... my basement is humid as he!! this summer and cold as he!! last winter. The window brand? Home Depots cheapest sliders. My question is... does the wood framing make a difference in temps of basement? Oh, and they didn't caulk around the frame on the exterior. I ended up doing that, but the 1/4" gap keeps needing to be recaulked. Electric bill is through the roof with basement heat rising to first floor and a dehumidifier constantly running in basement. Could it be the windows? And why would anyone put sliders for a basement? Track gets filled with junk (leaves, etc). SMH
are there typically headers above the basement windows or is it just the sill plate that spans the area?
If you spray water in the gap to be foamed it gets a much much better fixing, I did a few little tests and the holding strength is multiples stronger
Ben Chippy
Yeah Ben it does make that polyurethane foam stronger and it will stick to the concrete like mortar doesn’t it.
@@ronh9384 enough water, and a few protrudingscrews should be enough to hold new concrete to old....the key is to soak the old mortar so it doesn't pull moisture out of your new mix.
Hey, thanks man! This was a great video!
I have bars on my windows very old house. How do I install the windows?
Nice install, but don't be striking those joint with your fingers :)
Does the window need brick moulding or not necessary?
yes it needs molding
Great video ...please do video on doing stucco application i sure would like to see
This
Jim Feaster well see if the opportunity arises
Good job thanks for the advice
I just replaced my basmemt window. The rough opening was s bit weird and there was really no easy way to fasten it to the masonary as the old mortar was cumbling. I ended up shimming it and jusy foam. It has been pretty solid. Id love to fasten it but sometimes it is not possible
kiwiswat what about the house sill above?
Hi how about cutting foundation block to create a window?
@@bellacity01 www.aconcordcarpenter.com/cutting-concrete-block-to-install-window.html
How long does it take to replace a wood framed window. Start to finish?
My wife took a huge crap a blew out all the windows. Have a hard time finding someone to get the windows out with splatter on em.
The M12 Fuel impact driver broke my masonry screws lol. That little driver is rediculus.
You probably didn't predrill deep enough
Don't need ANY screws. Expansion foam will hold that window just fine.
Nailing flanges
I will not replace any basement windows if the homeowner is going to use or rent the basement without putting a full size window on the opposite side of a exiting door in case of a house fire so no one will be trapped
Joseph Malinowski that’s called being a professional carpenter with integrity
A Concord Carpenter / ToolBoxBuzz thank you that means a lot love the channel
Can you buy the windows at Home Depot or Lowe’s? Or do they have to be ordered?
I just picked up some from home depot 54$ for 32" by 14"
Weren't you in 'Home Alone '? Thanks for the video. I have 4 windows I need to replace in a 140yo farm house.
check out mike haduck's installation. Less talk more action.
I did it too. This is what I used Woodglut designs for
No blue skin hmm
Deee rd
this is a stuoid Basementwindow
who wrote your earlier reviews? family. this is terrible
I'm not sure what you are referring to. Can you be more specific?
This was great! Thank you.