I have the exact same mill...and you'll discover "tricks" the longer you have it. One I'll share with you: You can get a bit more lumber out of a log if you find how high center is on both end of the log off the mill bed, take the difference and divide by two and then brace up the small end of the log that much when squaring your log on the first two sides. I carry different size wood shims with me for that purpose. Good luck man.
Thanks Karl! I did buy the tapered metal wedge from Woodmizer for leveling the ends of the log, but I've only used it once. I like your idea of the wood shims better, and it may be a bit more accurate. The metal one seems to work for when there's a big taper, but it is way too much if there's only an inch or so. I do appreciate the help, as I'm learning every time I run it, and every time I catch a support with the blade! 😣
Oh my god your not going to use 2 clamps on that 6ft. log are you? Some people would use 2 back stop points but thats just some people.. Anyway good vid it was exacltly what I needed to see and dont take my 70 year old sarcasim to heart cause it was a good vid and helpful to someone like me that is thinking about buying that same machine. Good luck chum.
Man it looks so cold there. Since you have had your mill a couple of years now, what are your thoughts on it. Are you happy with it, do you wish you would have bought a different mill, How are you handling blade setting and sharpening? Thanks for taking the time to show us using your mill etc. I hope you have a blessed week.
Good Morning! I still really enjoy the mill, and it was a massive step up from the Alaskan chainsaw mil...however I wish I had a motorized saw head instead of cranking the saw by hand for hours on end. Having a small front loader with forks is a big help for loading the logs instead of cranking them with the included winch. While helpful, it’s a bit silly. I put on a winch from Harbor Freight that was electric and use a wireless key fob to work the winch while I can also work the log going up the ramp. Some days I do wish I would have stepped up and bought the LT28 for doing wider logs as well as having the electric saw head. Turning the logs on the bed by hand is a chore on big logs, but 2 people with cant hooks handle it pretty well. Overall It’s a really great machine that is ALL manual. If that’s what you’re looking for and you have lots of energy or the occasional logs to mill, this would be great. I send my dull blades back to woodmizer to be sharpened and inspected and they send them back to me when they are complete. Thanks for watching and for the questions!
Good Morning to you to sir, I understand completely. As of right now, The manual mill for me fits my budget better, and I promise you, I am not full of energy eheheh, Im am going to be 47 this year, I sometime get tired just watching you mill wood. hehehe, But it will fit my budget. I am actually tossing the idea of this mill or the Timbering 1220 and to keep cost down initially, I am almost thinking of buying it with out the trailer and then add a trailer later one. If I didn't mind a partial loan on the mill, I would be looking at the LT 28 or the TimberKing 1400, Both mills are very close to size and would be mobile. My initial plans for the mill, is to mill up enough lumber for small projects on my little acreage. I don't know the I would try to make any money with it, and I don't know that there is really any opportunity for make much money in my area with one,. The only real upgrade I have been looking at was the engine upgrade, to around the 23 HP for either mill. I will be milling mostly pine and some oak and hickory. I am totally new at all this, my wife would be my only help so I figure I am in for a project that will help me stay in shape or kill me one hehehe. Thanks for such a great reply my friend.
I actually posted another video yesterday where I talk about that. I used the "woodchuck" hookaroon to pull logs down from the side, instead of potentially getting crushed. It's definitely dangerous, but I'm learning all the time
I can assume that your still in business and can still count to ten on different fingers. That first day is murder. I'm not sure I would of shown that one but you did and you get a atta boy for it. Learning to be a good sawyer is a or time thing. I never got good at anything but I could do most anything if you know what I mean. There is money to be made in the wood business but it is tuff to get all the sales that you need at first but then you know that now too. I only hope that your very successful
So far so good! It's a very basic mill so there's not *too much* that can go wrong, but trailering it can loosen nuts and bolts over time so you need to check everything for squareness every so often. It is very fast and does a great job. I've been slacking this winter and haven't even pulled it out to cut, but in the next few weeks I should be getting at my pile of logs and will record a few more videos to upload. Thanks for watching!
@@BlueyesBelow Hey Dusty, any new vids, as in 2019, !!, just found you today, July 31, hope all is well with you, really enjoyed this, wish I found it when you posted.
When you clamped the log, how far off of 90* did it end up? I've having the same issue with the LT10, and I'm starting to wonder if WoodMizer is going to try to 'cure the problem'.....
I honestly can't remember because I've milled so many logs since then, but I found that the smaller logs always end up a little bit off. There's just not enough to clamp to. I've been saving the small logs to use as posts for my garden or other projects and not wasting my time with them. The bigger logs always end up straight though. Good luck with your mill and thank you for watching!
+Scott Butler Hey, Scott the post is 6 months old but I thought I would share a tip with you that may help others. I'm a manufacturing engineer and I've watched a dozen or so videos of people band milling logs and I've yet to see a single one of them that knows how to properly square a log. In the videos I've watched I see people take the first cut to establish plane then roll the log 90 degrees, make another cut, roll the log 90 degrees in the same direction and make the next cut and then roll the log another 90 degrees to make the final cut. Squaring any material in this manner results in a trapezoidal geometry to varying degrees. I one is using a plane afterward or squareness isn't critical then this method is quick and effective. If you don't have a plane and want better results then a different cutting method must be used. The best method if you want a geometry as close as possible to a true square is as follows: 1. Make your first cut to establish a working plane. 2. Place that first cut working plane against the surface you've established as being perpendicular to the band saw blade. 3. Take the second cut. 4. (This is the most important step) One must now flip the log end over end so that the second cut is now face down on the saw track and the first cut working plane is still against the fence. Then take your 3rd cut. This will establish two parallel faces within the margin of error of the fence and blade perpendicularity. 5. Now (because the 2nd and 3rd cuts are parallel) the first cut working plane can be placed face down on the track with the 2nd or 3rd cut plane against the fence. The 4th cut can now be taken. This will give you almost the most accurate square geometry your tool is capable of producing. At this point the squareness will be adequate for most people. 6. If you want the absolute best your tool can produce the log would need to be flipped end over end again. The same face ( cut two or three) that was against the fence on cut four needs to still be against the fence. Then a small cut would need to be made again to the first surface cut. So 5 cuts total. At this point any out of square condition is from misalignment of the fence and blade perpendicularity. I hope this helps.
+E13Mods Thank you for the post! I have had issues with squareness a number of times and had to make a small correction cut to level out before I start ripping boards, however with rough cut lumber...it is usually cut 1/4 inch over final needed dimension to allow for planing out any imperfections. I have also used rough cut on the walls and ceiling of my barn and garage without any further treatment after cutting. I love a rustic look and feel, so any imperfections are ok with me there...*However* if I were to sell lumber to customers, I would want the squarest boards possible. If I read the post right...when you say to flip the log "end over end" does that mean the head becomes the foot, and the foot becomes the head? These logs are generally way too heavy for me to maneuver by hand (other than rolling with a cant hook) and I do not have a tractor to pick them up, so unfortunately I'm limited to the method you saw in the video. Mind you this was the first day I bought the mill and I have since learned much better how to use everything. Thanks again for the info!
This was literally the first time I had ever used the mill or any mill...I was a rookie. I had nobody to teach me. I had just gotten back from Indianapolis with it. You don’t get it right all at once, and I’m not too proud to say that. Pretty rude of you honestly.
In the later part of the video I realized that and moved the log to use both dogs. I was a bit nervous since this was my first time milling with it and was trying to pay attention and figure out things. Sometimes you overlook the simplest things, as in this case.
Good looking wall you got there.
this was perfect. nice to see someone doing it for the first time instead of the pro's. thanks for sharing it screw ups and all.
Thank you Russel, I enjoy doing the videos and the screw ups are part of it!
I have the exact same mill...and you'll discover "tricks" the longer you have it. One I'll share with you: You can get a bit more lumber out of a log if you find how high center is on both end of the log off the mill bed, take the difference and divide by two and then brace up the small end of the log that much when squaring your log on the first two sides. I carry different size wood shims with me for that purpose. Good luck man.
Thanks Karl! I did buy the tapered metal wedge from Woodmizer for leveling the ends of the log, but I've only used it once. I like your idea of the wood shims better, and it may be a bit more accurate. The metal one seems to work for when there's a big taper, but it is way too much if there's only an inch or so.
I do appreciate the help, as I'm learning every time I run it, and every time I catch a support with the blade! 😣
Fantastic machinery!
It truly is amazing how well something so simple works. The wood is produces is beautiful. Thank you for watching !
Great video, thanks for sharing, both pro's and con's, lets the rest of know what to expect!
Oh my god your not going to use 2 clamps on that 6ft. log are you? Some people would use 2 back stop points but thats just some people.. Anyway good vid it was exacltly what I needed to see and dont take my 70 year old sarcasim to heart cause it was a good vid and helpful to someone like me that is thinking about buying that same machine. Good luck chum.
Man it looks so cold there.
Since you have had your mill a couple of years now, what are your thoughts on it. Are you happy with it, do you wish you would have bought a different mill, How are you handling blade setting and sharpening?
Thanks for taking the time to show us using your mill etc. I hope you have a blessed week.
Good Morning! I still really enjoy the mill, and it was a massive step up from the Alaskan chainsaw mil...however I wish I had a motorized saw head instead of cranking the saw by hand for hours on end. Having a small front loader with forks is a big help for loading the logs instead of cranking them with the included winch. While helpful, it’s a bit silly. I put on a winch from Harbor Freight that was electric and use a wireless key fob to work the winch while I can also work the log going up the ramp. Some days I do wish I would have stepped up and bought the LT28 for doing wider logs as well as having the electric saw head.
Turning the logs on the bed by hand is a chore on big logs, but 2 people with cant hooks handle it pretty well.
Overall It’s a really great machine that is ALL manual. If that’s what you’re looking for and you have lots of energy or the occasional logs to mill, this would be great.
I send my dull blades back to woodmizer to be sharpened and inspected and they send them back to me when they are complete.
Thanks for watching and for the questions!
Good Morning to you to sir,
I understand completely. As of right now, The manual mill for me fits my budget better, and I promise you, I am not full of energy eheheh, Im am going to be 47 this year, I sometime get tired just watching you mill wood. hehehe, But it will fit my budget.
I am actually tossing the idea of this mill or the Timbering 1220 and to keep cost down initially, I am almost thinking of buying it with out the trailer and then add a trailer later one. If I didn't mind a partial loan on the mill, I would be looking at the LT 28 or the TimberKing 1400, Both mills are very close to size and would be mobile.
My initial plans for the mill, is to mill up enough lumber for small projects on my little acreage.
I don't know the I would try to make any money with it, and I don't know that there is really any opportunity for make much money in my area with one,. The only real upgrade I have been looking at was the engine upgrade, to around the 23 HP for either mill. I will be milling mostly pine and some oak and hickory.
I am totally new at all this, my wife would be my only help so I figure I am in for a project that will help me stay in shape or kill me one hehehe.
Thanks for such a great reply my friend.
See how easy that log rolled out of the stack. You were just standing there! Even a small log will snap you legs, sawmilling is dangerous be ware
I actually posted another video yesterday where I talk about that. I used the "woodchuck" hookaroon to pull logs down from the side, instead of potentially getting crushed.
It's definitely dangerous, but I'm learning all the time
I can assume that your still in business and can still count to ten on different fingers. That first day is murder. I'm not sure I would of shown that one but you did and you get a atta boy for it. Learning to be a good sawyer is a or time thing. I never got good at anything but I could do most anything if you know what I mean. There is money to be made in the wood business but it is tuff to get all the sales that you need at first but then you know that now too. I only hope that your very successful
I say,,, I know a little bit about lots of things,, and not a whole lot about anything...
Cool I want one
smart guy..nice mill…u will have the money u paid for the mill back quickly
A few tricks to learn what comes to clamping
I've since added a third clamp to the setup and figured out which end to start with ☺️
Nice mill, how's it holding up.
So far so good! It's a very basic mill so there's not *too much* that can go wrong, but trailering it can loosen nuts and bolts over time so you need to check everything for squareness every so often. It is very fast and does a great job. I've been slacking this winter and haven't even pulled it out to cut, but in the next few weeks I should be getting at my pile of logs and will record a few more videos to upload. Thanks for watching!
@@BlueyesBelow Hey Dusty, any new vids, as in 2019, !!, just found you today, July 31, hope all is well with you, really enjoyed this, wish I found it when you posted.
Keep your clamps low. mine are simpler and are usually set at 1/2 inch except my first three cuts.
When you clamped the log, how far off of 90* did it end up? I've having the same issue with the LT10, and I'm starting to wonder if WoodMizer is going to try to 'cure the problem'.....
I honestly can't remember because I've milled so many logs since then, but I found that the smaller logs always end up a little bit off. There's just not enough to clamp to.
I've been saving the small logs to use as posts for my garden or other projects and not wasting my time with them.
The bigger logs always end up straight though.
Good luck with your mill and thank you for watching!
+Scott Butler Hey, Scott the post is 6 months old but I thought I would share a tip with you that may help others. I'm a manufacturing engineer and I've watched a dozen or so videos of people band milling logs and I've yet to see a single one of them that knows how to properly square a log.
In the videos I've watched I see people take the first cut to establish plane then roll the log 90 degrees, make another cut, roll the log 90 degrees in the same direction and make the next cut and then roll the log another 90 degrees to make the final cut. Squaring any material in this manner results in a trapezoidal geometry to varying degrees. I one is using a plane afterward or squareness isn't critical then this method is quick and effective. If you don't have a plane and want better results then a different cutting method must be used.
The best method if you want a geometry as close as possible to a true square is as follows:
1. Make your first cut to establish a working plane.
2. Place that first cut working plane against the surface you've established as being perpendicular to the band saw blade.
3. Take the second cut.
4. (This is the most important step) One must now flip the log end over end so that the second cut is now face down on the saw track and the first cut working plane is still against the fence. Then take your 3rd cut. This will establish two parallel faces within the margin of error of the fence and blade perpendicularity.
5. Now (because the 2nd and 3rd cuts are parallel) the first cut working plane can be placed face down on the track with the 2nd or 3rd cut plane against the fence. The 4th cut can now be taken. This will give you almost the most accurate square geometry your tool is capable of producing. At this point the squareness will be adequate for most people.
6. If you want the absolute best your tool can produce the log would need to be flipped end over end again. The same face ( cut two or three) that was against the fence on cut four needs to still be against the fence. Then a small cut would need to be made again to the first surface cut. So 5 cuts total.
At this point any out of square condition is from misalignment of the fence and blade perpendicularity.
I hope this helps.
+E13Mods Thank you for the post! I have had issues with squareness a number of times and had to make a small correction cut to level out before I start ripping boards, however with rough cut lumber...it is usually cut 1/4 inch over final needed dimension to allow for planing out any imperfections. I have also used rough cut on the walls and ceiling of my barn and garage without any further treatment after cutting. I love a rustic look and feel, so any imperfections are ok with me there...*However* if I were to sell lumber to customers, I would want the squarest boards possible.
If I read the post right...when you say to flip the log "end over end" does that mean the head becomes the foot, and the foot becomes the head?
These logs are generally way too heavy for me to maneuver by hand (other than rolling with a cant hook) and I do not have a tractor to pick them up, so unfortunately I'm limited to the method you saw in the video. Mind you this was the first day I bought the mill and I have since learned much better how to use everything. Thanks again for the info!
I can't believe it took you 4 tries to get the log clamped adequately!!!! What a rookie !!!
This was literally the first time I had ever used the mill or any mill...I was a rookie. I had nobody to teach me. I had just gotten back from Indianapolis with it. You don’t get it right all at once, and I’m not too proud to say that.
Pretty rude of you honestly.
any uppdate on the WOOD MIZER LT15??any videos off cuurrent situations?
I have a few videos on my channel, but I did sell it to a friend of mine a year or so ago
Why not move the log and use both dogs?
In the later part of the video I realized that and moved the log to use both dogs. I was a bit nervous since this was my first time milling with it and was trying to pay attention and figure out things. Sometimes you overlook the simplest things, as in this case.
Много обрезков маленький выход
That engine sounds like it wants to die when not under load
I always thought it sounded like a Harley with a large cam ☺️👍🏼
junk mizer