Not a comment about smithing, but about adblockers and skippers. I like this channel a lot, and I subscribed. I hope that if you feel the same way you let the ads play so that modest revenue stream still works for the maker. Sorry to be off-topic but it only seems fair!
Glen @ GS Tongs makes the tube type guillotine tools. Looks like a handy little rig. I think two of the best blacksmithing purchases I've made besides an anvil and a fire pot, have been a well made "double C" style guillotine tool and a commercially made bending jig. Very handy! As a side note, if I'm home for the night (night shift at the hospital), my partner and I will watch your videos together. Now when I go out to the shop, she'll say, "Remember....wear your safety glasses!"
Good video once again John Cheers for sharing. I live in UK and did actually buy a Smithin Magician over here if anyone is interested they are available I think on Amazon
The whole purpose of watching your episodes are to watch you make the tools I understand that there is a lot of time and preparation and doing so and your viewers really appreciate all your hard work and everything else but we also enjoy you making the tools and step by step tutorial when you are making them greatly appreciate it
I appreciate that. It just seems that for the fabricated tools it would be mostly watching sparks fro the saw, grinder and welder. It also would have added enough time to the process in this case that the video wouldn't have been made yesterday. But I will keep that in mind
I've been checking out your channel for the last couple of weeks and I really appreciate what you are doing for the blacksmithing community keep up the good work
For mild steel dies, yes they will mushroom out over time and you need to redress them, but when they get shorter it isn't hard to weld on a new striking surface and extend the die back out instead of making a new die.
Great video. Thank you for showing my adjustable setup 😀, very much appreciated! (btw I'm Dutch 😉). Never knew there were so many option to make this tool, very useful and insightful, thanks!
E BOYD I think. Gary's is a different design than the smith'n magician. It's actually his own (if based on similar) More like the C style John described. But the thick parts fit lego like together. It looks awsome.
Good Evening , John Video was very helpful and Wonderful information ! The 'C' form , you were experimenting with wasa Great Idea and Very much more useful ! Take Care and Be Safe ! KEEP HAMMERING
I recently built a guillotine tool.My dies are mild steel(its what I had) after a quick test I noticed the mushroom effect on the striking end of the die.I simply welded a piece of 3/4'' square stock on top of the striking die about an inch tall.So now I strike on the center everytime and when that 3/4 material gets all mushroomed over I will just wack it off and weld a new piece on...the die stays the same length for its life.
Really like your informative videos you put out there for us. Thanks for the link to blacksmith supply.com. found and ordered a swage block from them. Decent enough price.
A way to get around the weld seam in tubing would be to use PTO (Power Take Off) shaft commonly found on farm equipment. Both shaft and tubing are made for a slide fit and come in many sizes, square, rectangular, even have one that is octagon. I've never spark tested one but would think due to the power transmitted through them they would be tougher then mild steel. Here in farm country PTO shaft can be found in salvage yards. Keep up the great videos.
PTO shafts are likely at least EN16 if not En19 (4140). The steel specs often mention drive shafts like this for suitability. Good call. We've got a broken one about.. Though it's lemon shaped in the UK lol. (oval with two pip like seams either side)
I would love and update on how these have held up. I always put a knock out hole in the bottom in case the absorbed heat swells the die. I'm thinking of making a fuller rig with two adjustable c clamps built in to space where where the fuller is, and where the spine of the blade is. Just a hobbyist, but Thanks much John.
If you face harden the face you strike with a hammer by welding it with like a 70/18 arc weld heck even mig welded and than ground and dressed would be plenty hard for the mild steel to help resist mushrooming the thicker the welded face the better and that’ll hold up a lot better
Options, Options, Options! Bravo, John! I have a couple different kinds and I use the both A LOT. As you said these are handier than a shirt pocket and every blacksmith should have one. Probably my favorite tool after my belt grinders. I am all aquiver with anticipation for the DIES- what do yours do? How did you make them. Which ones are you going to build for us? I know I am missing some really practical uses that I will love as soon as you show them to me :) You stick around, John, I have many,many more things to learn from you, ya hear? Dave
I know this video is 6 years old but I am just getting into smithing. I have made a hardy cut off tool and now working on making a guillotine. My question is. What in your opinion should be the first kind of dies to make? I plan (after I get some good practice in and get proficient) to make knives as well as random decorative work.
What is the advantage of having such "tall" upper die? I can see that the vertical guide rails need to go high enough that the upper die is supported when your maximum thickness of material is in the guillotine. Is there some other reason I'm not seeing for why the upper die seem to generally be so tall?
Adaptability is the main thing, but it also helps with alignment and the top where you lift the die stays cooler. But I have seen a few with shorter dies, so it can be done
Ah! The heat transmission. That makes sense. I'm going to knock together a bolted together bar stock version to test ideas. Will report back what I find. Glad I found your videos before the stay-at-home orders. Hope my limited amount of propane lets me make some progress while I have the "extra" time teaching remotely. Thanks for sharing!
Can you please stop Mr Jon. I just started smithing 4 months ago and build my own guillotine tool yesterday. One thing I noticed is mine is calapsing at the top starting to binding the upper die. Needs a horizontal support between the guides. The problem is you show me too many great ideas and how to videos. I really like the c frame version and have to make one of those now.... You are truly an inspiration and that you for your time making your videos for us.
Wouldn't a guillotine tool work good for a puch tool to make a hole almost threw on thicker stock and make sure that both ends align perfectly or to start an eye for a hammer or axe
When you mushroom the cold steel it can cause small cracks, forging it out forges those cracks into the tool where they can cause problems. Grinding them flat removes both the mushrooming and the cracks.
i have some questions...one specifically i recently built a new forge with two venturi style burners its made from an old propane tank line with ceramic fiber and satanite the issue im having is the end of my burners are getting red hot ive tried putting them closer to the inside of the forge and ive tried pulling them away from the inside of the forge more ive also read that filling in the gap around the end of burner so there is no airspace can help.......but it seems to have made it get hot faster any tips on fixing this on a lighter note before i noticed this happening i was finally able to reach forge welding temps :D
I haven't done much with gas forge design. But I know the burner tips should not protrude into the forge but should only go about halfway through the insulation. In effect the last inch or so of refractory is the real burner orifice. The combustion should occur in the forge chamber and not inside the burner. But like I say, this is not something I know a lot about, so it may be a good idea to check with some of the forge builders.
Looks like the image from ua-cam.com/video/cCk4tvjudOQ/v-deo.html might have come from the Blacksmiths Journal. www.metalsmith.org/pub/mtlsmith/V16.4/magi.html
Not a comment about smithing, but about adblockers and skippers. I like this channel a lot, and I subscribed. I hope that if you feel the same way you let the ads play so that modest revenue stream still works for the maker. Sorry to be off-topic but it only seems fair!
Gs tongs did a good demonstration of working with a gill tool , worth watching he does great tongs too :)
Thanks for sharing your experience and insight in a very helpful way.
Thank you so much for sharing! I love your videos
Thank you for the chat....
Glen @ GS Tongs makes the tube type guillotine tools. Looks like a handy little rig. I think two of the best blacksmithing purchases I've made besides an anvil and a fire pot, have been a well made "double C" style guillotine tool and a commercially made bending jig. Very handy! As a side note, if I'm home for the night (night shift at the hospital), my partner and I will watch your videos together. Now when I go out to the shop, she'll say, "Remember....wear your safety glasses!"
Thanks
Good options there, thanks John.
On a different note John the Black Bear forge stickers arrived today thanks very much, John 👍🇬🇧
I have done one after watching
Thanks for showing
THOSE LOOK VERY USEFUL THANX FOR TAKIN THE TIME BROTHER
Thanks again John, and ur 100% right ‘ cherish ur time in the shop Cos u will never get that time back’ wise words mate , cheers John 👍🇬🇧
Good video once again John Cheers for sharing. I live in UK and did actually buy a Smithin Magician over here if anyone is interested they are available I think on Amazon
So Awesome John! Very useful and practical information! Thank you Black Bear Forge!
The whole purpose of watching your episodes are to watch you make the tools I understand that there is a lot of time and preparation and doing so and your viewers really appreciate all your hard work and everything else but we also enjoy you making the tools and step by step tutorial when you are making them greatly appreciate it
I appreciate that. It just seems that for the fabricated tools it would be mostly watching sparks fro the saw, grinder and welder. It also would have added enough time to the process in this case that the video wouldn't have been made yesterday. But I will keep that in mind
Great job John. Awsome information thx
Thank you for taking the time Sir!
I've been checking out your channel for the last couple of weeks and I really appreciate what you are doing for the blacksmithing community keep up the good work
Welcome aboard!
Great stuff John, my smithy is better because of you. Thanks man.
For mild steel dies, yes they will mushroom out over time and you need to redress them, but when they get shorter it isn't hard to weld on a new striking surface and extend the die back out instead of making a new die.
Personally I think that all sounds like more work over the years than just making them once from good steel, but, yes it is an option
Great video. Thank you for showing my adjustable setup 😀, very much appreciated! (btw I'm Dutch 😉). Never knew there were so many option to make this tool, very useful and insightful, thanks!
Glad you approve. Now I don't recall what I said in the video.
Good Video! Your c-frame is what i called my u-shape. More work to build, but in the end the most usefull. Best regards from Germany.
I appreciate all your time and efforts! Thank you.
Great video and lots of information. Thank you!
Over at Gary Huston's, has CAD plans (in the credits)and videos for the Smithing Magician aka blacksmiths helper, guillotine tool.
E BOYD I think. Gary's is a different design than the smith'n magician. It's actually his own (if based on similar) More like the C style John described. But the thick parts fit lego like together. It looks awsome.
Good Evening , John
Video was very helpful and Wonderful information !
The 'C' form , you were experimenting with wasa Great Idea and Very much more useful !
Take Care and Be Safe !
KEEP HAMMERING
Thanks John an other great informational video, now I've got more ideas than time to try them. I'll never be bored again! Lol . Thank bro Anthony Kent
Love your work! Thanks for all the tips and new ideas.
Well new to me anyway.
I recently built a guillotine tool.My dies are mild steel(its what I had) after a quick test I noticed the mushroom effect on the striking end of the die.I simply welded a piece of 3/4'' square stock on top of the striking die about an inch tall.So now I strike on the center everytime and when that 3/4 material gets all mushroomed over I will just wack it off and weld a new piece on...the die stays the same length for its life.
Really like your informative videos you put out there for us. Thanks for the link to blacksmith supply.com. found and ordered a swage block from them. Decent enough price.
Glad it helped. I had not heard of them before.
Very good ideas thanks for the video keep them coming please
A way to get around the weld seam in tubing would be to use PTO (Power Take Off) shaft commonly found on farm equipment. Both shaft and tubing are made for a slide fit and come in many sizes, square, rectangular, even have one that is octagon. I've never spark tested one but would think due to the power transmitted through them they would be tougher then mild steel. Here in farm country PTO shaft can be found in salvage yards. Keep up the great videos.
Interesting idea, I wouldn't have though there would be that much variety.
PTO shafts are likely at least EN16 if not En19 (4140). The steel specs often mention drive shafts like this for suitability. Good call. We've got a broken one about.. Though it's lemon shaped in the UK lol. (oval with two pip like seams either side)
I think I may need one of these.
Very handy tools
👍👍👍👍Yep, gonna need to make one of these
Good options here, love it.
I would love and update on how these have held up. I always put a knock out hole in the bottom in case the absorbed heat swells the die. I'm thinking of making a fuller rig with two adjustable c clamps built in to space where where the fuller is, and where the spine of the blade is. Just a hobbyist, but Thanks much John.
Most of these went to other smiths, so I don't have them to evaluate anymore. The knock out sounds like a good idea.
If you face harden the face you strike with a hammer by welding it with like a 70/18 arc weld heck even mig welded and than ground and dressed would be plenty hard for the mild steel to help resist mushrooming the thicker the welded face the better and that’ll hold up a lot better
Just put 2gether 1 i bought from uncle bucks forge. Great tool
Options, Options, Options! Bravo, John! I have a couple different kinds and I use the both A LOT. As you said these are handier than a shirt pocket and every blacksmith should have one. Probably my favorite tool after my belt grinders. I am all aquiver with anticipation for the DIES- what do yours do? How did you make them. Which ones are you going to build for us? I know I am missing some really practical uses that I will love as soon as you show them to me :) You stick around, John, I have many,many more things to learn from you, ya hear?
Dave
I will certainly start with basic dies. But hopefully we will make quite a few more
Another option would be to make your dies out of AR500 as they are abrasion resistant
I know this video is 6 years old but I am just getting into smithing. I have made a hardy cut off tool and now working on making a guillotine. My question is. What in your opinion should be the first kind of dies to make? I plan (after I get some good practice in and get proficient) to make knives as well as random decorative work.
I think that butcher dies are what I use the most
What is the advantage of having such "tall" upper die? I can see that the vertical guide rails need to go high enough that the upper die is supported when your maximum thickness of material is in the guillotine. Is there some other reason I'm not seeing for why the upper die seem to generally be so tall?
Adaptability is the main thing, but it also helps with alignment and the top where you lift the die stays cooler. But I have seen a few with shorter dies, so it can be done
Ah! The heat transmission. That makes sense.
I'm going to knock together a bolted together bar stock version to test ideas. Will report back what I find.
Glad I found your videos before the stay-at-home orders. Hope my limited amount of propane lets me make some progress while I have the "extra" time teaching remotely. Thanks for sharing!
Can you please stop Mr Jon.
I just started smithing 4 months ago and build my own guillotine tool yesterday.
One thing I noticed is mine is calapsing at the top starting to binding the upper die. Needs a horizontal support between the guides.
The problem is you show me too many great ideas and how to videos. I really like the c frame version and have to make one of those now....
You are truly an inspiration and that you for your time making your videos for us.
lots of ways to cut the mustard for sure...
Wouldn't a guillotine tool work good for a puch tool to make a hole almost threw on thicker stock and make sure that both ends align perfectly or to start an eye for a hammer or axe
It would going in, but would almost always get stuck in the hole with no good way to strip the punch
Why would you dress the mushroomed end of your die as opposed to heating and drawing it out back to square?
When you mushroom the cold steel it can cause small cracks, forging it out forges those cracks into the tool where they can cause problems. Grinding them flat removes both the mushrooming and the cracks.
i have some questions...one specifically i recently built a new forge with two venturi style burners its made from an old propane tank line with ceramic fiber and satanite the issue im having is the end of my burners are getting red hot ive tried putting them closer to the inside of the forge and ive tried pulling them away from the inside of the forge more ive also read that filling in the gap around the end of burner so there is no airspace can help.......but it seems to have made it get hot faster any tips on fixing this on a lighter note before i noticed this happening i was finally able to reach forge welding temps :D
I haven't done much with gas forge design. But I know the burner tips should not protrude into the forge but should only go about halfway through the insulation. In effect the last inch or so of refractory is the real burner orifice. The combustion should occur in the forge chamber and not inside the burner. But like I say, this is not something I know a lot about, so it may be a good idea to check with some of the forge builders.
Black Bear Forge thanks for the info I'm going to try and pull them out a bit more and see if that helps
John, Are you going to do a video on Die Making,I think that would be Very Useful.Thanks
Yes, I plan to do that this week.
Looks like the image from ua-cam.com/video/cCk4tvjudOQ/v-deo.html might have come from the Blacksmiths Journal. www.metalsmith.org/pub/mtlsmith/V16.4/magi.html