The last time I built a 4L60e was back in 2016. I've done a lot of Fords and Dodge's since then. I had to come back for a refresher course so I've been looking at UA-cam for a good two weeks at all 4L60e videos. I will say, YOURS is the best! Man, your camera is focused on the parts and you're talking as you're loading the drum. You show the direction of everything and exactly what you're doing. And it's all RIGHT in the camera. This video deserves a million views, real talk. 6k views doesn't do it justice, just saying. They've got some videos that are maybe 5 out of 10, and yours is a clear 10 out of 10. UA-cam is slacking. This should be recommended the moment someone types 4L60e in the bar.
One thing that could have made this even better was when you mentioned the forward snap ring and said it is thick and fat, I was expecting at least 3 seconds of awkward unavoidable eye contact 🤣🤣
There were so many missed opportunities especially in the intro video!! Im also dissapointed i didnt realize what i said and didnt make a funny. Next time!
I watch many trans build vids and so far your attention to the little details puts you right at the top Ryan, Well done so far. Looking forward to the rest.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I noticed that stock it would downshift through the gears it would get up to 2-3k rpm, sounded good haha. If I remember right. it was tuned back in 2016. I figured he tuned it out for less wear and tear on the transmission maybe it's more for fuel efficiency? I'll have to ask him when I retune it for my stroker motor. Hopefully you'll be building me a stage 3 in a few months. I'm a DIY type of guy but I have never built a automatic transmission and I don't think building a 60 to hold 650hp is a good one to try to learn on haha.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I agree. Don't worry I'll be writing down everything you recommend on tuning and mentioning it to him. It's Ryan Mitchell at KC Maxx performance.
I got a 2004 TrailBlazer EXT 4WD that’s stuck going forward all the time, can go forward in between park and reverse, neutral, wants to go back in reverse but stuck going forward so it just stays there as if it were in park, it drives fine but even when you start it in park it goes forward slightly, i think I have one of the videos covering it on my channel. Some forums claim the input drum is cracked and causing a cross leak feeding forward all the time, another video I can find VERY similar to my issue says it's a clutch pack fried with another, but not fully clear exactly which one it is. Either way it drives perfectly fine but have had instances where I needed another vehicle to push or pull me back. I was thinking maybe it would be one of the check balls in the valve body but I'm most likely only thinking that as I don't want to take the entire trans out lmao. I'm trying to get EVERY possibility why it does that so I know EXACTLY what to look out for as I go in. The day I quit my job was literally the last time it went into reverse. Maybe it was still rolling back as I put it into drive (which I done sometimes (damn me used to newer cars waiting to fully shift to drive automatically until the vehicle stops completely) and maybe it torqued something too hard inside or as I'm thinking maybe might have slammed a check ball somewhere to where it's stuck in there if that's possible.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions From what I been looking at it's definitely something I will check for. I also seen in that forum again with common issues it could be caused by a cracked forward piston, says "Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together." Not sure how old that forum is and how completely accurate it may be but seen it quite a lot but hardly any proof of that being the actual fix. If it's probably also caused by that, Would that symptom possibly be the piston not having any suction due to possibly the O ring finally wearing out or one of the other rubber sealents?
Alum pistons that crack ended in 1995. You have steel molded pistons in your 2004 and ive never seen one of those break and extremely rarely tear a seal.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Little update, took the time to finally look into the issue, turns out one of the clutches got fused together and the rest were on it's way out. The clutch disc was causing it to keep spinning and preventing from going in reverse and going forward in neutral. Was a little froze when I seen the sprag turning normally but stuck the other way, and the other one from a different 4L60E I got was spinning the way it should. Was quite a fun project and the video did help me look out for all the little things before fully reassembling it. My TrailBlazer drives perfectly again and most likely will look into getting a proper rebuild trans in it by spring next year. Thanks again for the info!
So, does 2nd clutch pack need to make contact with the sun gear splines? Ive got 2 clutches that are sitting right below the splines. This is for a 95 gmc yukon 350 tbi 4x4 4l60e.
@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so, it's the 1st forward friction plates. 2 of which aren't splines in line with the forward sprag in my assembly. I'm just trying to see if that's "normal" or are all friction supposed to make contact?
So I have a the 4l65e transmission and my input drum has 7 clutch’s and 6 steels and GM clearance gap for 3-4 clutch pack is around .035-.085 and mines about .020 but I was told to get a end plate that is less thicker since there are different sizes. Any suggestions/ recommendations you can give me ?
Run .020 to .030 thats what we do. If youd like to run a larger clearance to gm spec different plates can be found and ordered at global, wit, trans star
Because this is an oem build. Not a performance build. 4l60 65 and 70 oem had 6 and in some rare exceptions 7 as well as 7 in police/municipal packages
Its the way ive always done it. All they do is just push the 2 apply plates apart so it rly doesnt matter as long as they are there. Never leave them out. But it doesnt matter which way you put them in, you do you.
So you lost me. You explaint the metal pieces just throwing it in there. Thim i was dumb not leaving everything together when taking it all out. After you did the piston its all jibberish to me.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
The last time I built a 4L60e was back in 2016. I've done a lot of Fords and Dodge's since then. I had to come back for a refresher course so I've been looking at UA-cam for a good two weeks at all 4L60e videos. I will say, YOURS is the best! Man, your camera is focused on the parts and you're talking as you're loading the drum. You show the direction of everything and exactly what you're doing. And it's all RIGHT in the camera. This video deserves a million views, real talk. 6k views doesn't do it justice, just saying. They've got some videos that are maybe 5 out of 10, and yours is a clear 10 out of 10. UA-cam is slacking. This should be recommended the moment someone types 4L60e in the bar.
Thank you! Give us a share and tag on social media and help us out!
Awesome video I love the 60 people are just afraid and pay attention to social media to much when done right they hold up to alot of hp& torque.
One thing that could have made this even better was when you mentioned the forward snap ring and said it is thick and fat, I was expecting at least 3 seconds of awkward unavoidable eye contact 🤣🤣
There were so many missed opportunities especially in the intro video!! Im also dissapointed i didnt realize what i said and didnt make a funny. Next time!
I watch many trans build vids and so far your attention to the little details puts you right at the top Ryan, Well done so far. Looking forward to the rest.
Very good video, I appreciate
Very interesting video and above all very well explained, you have one more subscriber!
Awesome, thank you!
Is it better on the transmission to disable engine braking?
My tuner disabled it when tuning. Not sure his reasoning didn't ask.
I didnt think it was possible to disable tbh. Its not controlled by anything rly computer related to a degree.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I noticed that stock it would downshift through the gears it would get up to 2-3k rpm, sounded good haha. If I remember right. it was tuned back in 2016. I figured he tuned it out for less wear and tear on the transmission maybe it's more for fuel efficiency?
I'll have to ask him when I retune it for my stroker motor. Hopefully you'll be building me a stage 3 in a few months. I'm a DIY type of guy but I have never built a automatic transmission and I don't think building a 60 to hold 650hp is a good one to try to learn on haha.
I dont think your tuner is adjusting the correct things for you but i could be wrong. Id double check. Engine braking is only a good thing
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions I agree. Don't worry I'll be writing down everything you recommend on tuning and mentioning it to him. It's Ryan Mitchell at KC Maxx performance.
I got a 2004 TrailBlazer EXT 4WD that’s stuck going forward all the time, can go forward in between park and reverse, neutral, wants to go back in reverse but stuck going forward so it just stays there as if it were in park, it drives fine but even when you start it in park it goes forward slightly, i think I have one of the videos covering it on my channel.
Some forums claim the input drum is cracked and causing a cross leak feeding forward all the time, another video I can find VERY similar to my issue says it's a clutch pack fried with another, but not fully clear exactly which one it is. Either way it drives perfectly fine but have had instances where I needed another vehicle to push or pull me back.
I was thinking maybe it would be one of the check balls in the valve body but I'm most likely only thinking that as I don't want to take the entire trans out lmao. I'm trying to get EVERY possibility why it does that so I know EXACTLY what to look out for as I go in.
The day I quit my job was literally the last time it went into reverse. Maybe it was still rolling back as I put it into drive (which I done sometimes (damn me used to newer cars waiting to fully shift to drive automatically until the vehicle stops completely) and maybe it torqued something too hard inside or as I'm thinking maybe might have slammed a check ball somewhere to where it's stuck in there if that's possible.
fwd sprag in the input drum has shattered and locked. im 99% sure
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions From what I been looking at it's definitely something I will check for. I also seen in that forum again with common issues it could be caused by a cracked forward piston, says "Most likely a cracked input housing, or cracked forward piston means forward clutches are fused together." Not sure how old that forum is and how completely accurate it may be but seen it quite a lot but hardly any proof of that being the actual fix.
If it's probably also caused by that, Would that symptom possibly be the piston not having any suction due to possibly the O ring finally wearing out or one of the other rubber sealents?
Alum pistons that crack ended in 1995. You have steel molded pistons in your 2004 and ive never seen one of those break and extremely rarely tear a seal.
@@PerformaBuiltTransmissions Little update, took the time to finally look into the issue, turns out one of the clutches got fused together and the rest were on it's way out. The clutch disc was causing it to keep spinning and preventing from going in reverse and going forward in neutral. Was a little froze when I seen the sprag turning normally but stuck the other way, and the other one from a different 4L60E I got was spinning the way it should. Was quite a fun project and the video did help me look out for all the little things before fully reassembling it. My TrailBlazer drives perfectly again and most likely will look into getting a proper rebuild trans in it by spring next year. Thanks again for the info!
when I apply air to 3-4 clutch. the check ball leaks air. what would be the corrective action?
Take the drum frictions, steels, and pistons out and replace the checkball and capsule
So, does 2nd clutch pack need to make contact with the sun gear splines? Ive got 2 clutches that are sitting right below the splines. This is for a 95 gmc yukon 350 tbi 4x4 4l60e.
2 clutches below the splines? Mmmm im not following so watch again!
@PerformaBuiltTransmissions so, it's the 1st forward friction plates. 2 of which aren't splines in line with the forward sprag in my assembly. I'm just trying to see if that's "normal" or are all friction supposed to make contact?
So I have a the 4l65e transmission and my input drum has 7 clutch’s and 6 steels and GM clearance gap for 3-4 clutch pack is around .035-.085 and mines about .020 but I was told to get a end plate that is less thicker since there are different sizes. Any suggestions/ recommendations you can give me ?
Run .020 to .030 thats what we do. If youd like to run a larger clearance to gm spec different plates can be found and ordered at global, wit, trans star
@ is there a way I could see you video
Send *^
Will my input shaft need to be replaced? It has some really deep scratches on the outside
Only you can be the judge of that. If theres any scratches on the journal then yes it needs replaced
Hi, why don't you recommend 8 clutches for the 3-4 pack? You say 7 friction with 6 steels. It's O.K.?
Because this is an oem build. Not a performance build. 4l60 65 and 70 oem had 6 and in some rare exceptions 7 as well as 7 in police/municipal packages
Is there a reason you put the 3-4 return springs upside down?
Its the way ive always done it. All they do is just push the 2 apply plates apart so it rly doesnt matter as long as they are there. Never leave them out. But it doesnt matter which way you put them in, you do you.
So you lost me. You explaint the metal pieces just throwing it in there. Thim i was dumb not leaving everything together when taking it all out. After you did the piston its all jibberish to me.