If you are running hobbywing there is a racing feature that is called "Coast". It will add a minuscule amount of throttle when you let go of the throttle to eliminate motor/gearing drag.. You can add 10% and it will eliminate that pronounced drag of the belt.
How do we access those settings? I'm about to order a G2 combo and wanna know if I need to order something else to do all that goodness (I'm very new to the hobby, running a Sledge)!
Since its a tooth belt u dont need a lot of tension, and then it should not increase drag that much. Get a reinforced quality belt with kevlar instead of over tensioning would be my suggestion for the drag.
For belt drives you want very little tension on the belt, as the motor torques up the belt it will get super tight by nature. We use HTD drive belts on our 1:1 race cars that have dry sump oil pumps and you would be surprised at just how loose you can run the belts.
Heat from a belt drive is pretty normal. And they can take quite a bit of heat before it becomes an issue. I've bullied some belt drives in my life and I can tell you they're hard to kill 😉
Watch how tight you make it… As that style belt heats up they shrink. Same belt a roots blower runs on a engine. I have 1.5” total deflection both ways when cold, and when it’s fully warmed up there’s zero!
@@Hobz79 blower belt is nylon reinforced… Ever cut a tow strap and melt the end with a torch to fix the frayed end? It shrinks… The engine and blower don’t expand 1.5”…
@@Hobz79 blower belt is nylon reinforced… Ever cut a tow strap and melt the end with a torch to fix the frayed end? It shrinks… The engine and blower don’t expand 1.5”…
GOTTA be careful! If anything gets under either pulley, it shreds the belt. (OR used to 20 years ago.) Used to use a similar version for offroad & oval. Super EFFICIENT & did add runtime back then. But technology 2 decades ago wasn't what it is now.
Dang Bro !! That motor is the size of a pop can ! Also if you are concerned about heat build up on the belt shroud maybe you could pt a couple of vent holes on the back side of it cause you really didn't run it that hard to get a maximum heat test .
Great video man I love the belt drives I used to get them off of eBay from a guy Stern-CNC who used to sell them from Germany. We use them on all the fifth scales mainly on the red cat 1/5 scales because of how their gears are in perfect alignment you can get overdrive underdrive and one to one ratio. I believe the guy still sells them. From what I hear they’re actually part of some kind of Volkswagen transmissions. I ran these on mine when I lived in Jacksonville years ago. Stern-CNC is still around doing them with all the diff size belts and gear ratios. Keep up the awesome vids man!!!!
Maybe the belt is too tight preventing enough air through the cogs. Like a timing belt on a car with adjustable tensioner…it will creat that howl noise and a to tight belt and overheat the belt. Possibly being aluminum cogs transfer heat into the motor/stator shaft and breaking down the motor bearings..a thought to have. Maybe warming the rubber to de-lamination. Idk a thought from your cable ties underneath the mount. Beautiful build. -and for inflating the industry financially no. I mean a hobby has no priority in life. So for an after market segment that traxxas will most likely pay no attention I would say the cost of vehicles stays where They are at. -this starts from crawlers we say oh they cost so much more. Yes but we get inner fenders full interiors some times dig in transmissions over drives hi steer angles, two speeds abs bodies accents, locking axles. Yes more money but usually cheaper from factory then adding after and under equipped rig.
I’d prefer mechanical brakes with belt drive setup. Seems like a lot of stress on belt to have to brake and accelerate the vehicle but wow absolutely love how smooth it sounds eliminating those metal to metal gears. Large spur gear creates most of the noise. Nice to customize mechanical brakes that will brake the driveshafts keepn the strain off the belt itself helpn longevity of the belt.
Joe - let's be honest there was nothing 12s about this run... Lol you babied that truck unlike you would have if you ran it with gears. But but I still stand behind my Tuesdays live comment. Even if you run it on 8s I wanna see a real Joe aka Mr. Exoplex bash session.
Nice! Where did you get that 3rd bearing for the Cush drive input shaft? I couldn’t find it anywhere. I’ve always wondered why Traxxas left the end of the shaft unsupported. Good content
Hello my friend great content plus I love your accent I from NYC and you have such a cool Accent and you would definitely recognize my NYC accent Forgettaboutit lmao And your home track Is perfect you always are so calm and collective, and us your viewer's you explain things so easily and we learn so much R/C stuff from you well done my brother, your good dude my man if no one told your awesome well your awesome. I have been collecting R/C cars and trucks since 2005 and I now have around 35 vehicles or so a lot of nitro trucks I and on road nitro, but then lipos and brushless motors came into play around 2008 and I love your collection as well, just wanted to Say hi thanks your friendly neighborhood Doorman william from NYC forgettaboutit 👊 😀 lol ha ha God Bless you my brother 🙏
Im still not running that belt drive system on my xmaxx, i am very satisfied with my vitavon spyr and pinion set up on a vitavon motor mount with hobbywing 1100kv and a mamba xlx2 esc.
For offroad use, belts are terrible (in my experience) lose or tight it would heat up my motor I run a leopard 1050kv with max 5. To be fair, I did run 1:1 ratio, 30/30. I still believe gears are superior. Belts for speed, gears for bash. Having to adjust the belt is annoying
A How are you keeping that thing from flipping over backwards when you floor it!! It has a problem with that at 8 cells. Only thing I can figure is a setting on your controller or maybe a slipper?!
I tried the belt drive on mine for a hot minute. Ripped it out after the first run. The belt was slipping, and I felt like if I got it any tighter, it would pull at the motor shaft too much.
Thanks for the video. Question: I have the x maxx. 1100kv, max6 and other upgrades. But my diffs keep breaking, center, front and rear. Are you having that problem too? What oil do you use?
I picked up a 6s xmaxx, converted it to 8s, ive got the proline beadlocks and badlands. I can't keep rear ring and pinions in it to save my life. All brand new bearings, any ideas?
Belts need more play then u think it looked almost good the first time maybe half of what u shimed it learned belts from Harleys motorcycle they have more teeth ingagement so u want the play to keep from blowing out bearings and over heating the belt . Good think to watch is tension super charger belt belt drive cycles gives u good info on how much flex a belt need and just down scale u will have to retention time to time and using a temp gun help to show belt heat helps to know if u are to tight .keep up great work and have great day.
Love it deff think I’m going that direction still in the middle of my build going way more stock so I think belt would b perfect just stuck on hatchets or stock leaning twards hatchets what’s your input
Bought a belt drive and was the biggest waste of money. Same gear ratio as I had with gears but it was so stupid slow. With gears I could do about 60mph and wheelie all the time. With the belt I could wide open throttle and barely hit 35mph
i had my belt drive on my xmaxx with the castle 800k was super smooth and fun but after a few runs the belt would stretch and would have to keep adjusting it for tension just was unreliable
i have never had a belt drive RC, but I have a belt on my motorcycle, i think a belt would be a great setup, belts are tough , they can handle alot of power, gears dont have much contact, a belt has so much contact area,
I hope he didn’t rip you off too much, he throws a hissy fit and burns stickers when he’s called out, those are just 3d printer gears, they’re available on eBay, aliexpress and maybe even Amazon
This trucks upgrades are reaching 3x - 5x the original cost. Yes folks are fortunate to be able to do this, but as a man trying to make UA-cam full time he has to continue to invest and upgrade. It's the style of his channel. It's why I love it. All the tinkering. He isn't showboating just building a brand.
@@outlawrc63 you can buy it one piece at a time. ThAts what I do. I just buy something here and there until I get what I want. My ryft has almost everything vitavon offers but it took me awhile to get it all. I just got axle shafts and drive shafts a week or 2 ago.
Heat and rubber don't mix. Belt is to tight. That brushless motor's shaft isn't made for that type of pre-load. All belt systems are made to have deflection in them. Pinion and spur gears have zero pressure on them. What were you thinking about when you install those nylon ties?
Was it always that slow? My E-Maxx would wheel-stand past that thing like its sitting still. It seams to me that everybody that buys an X-Maxx does nothing but dump money into a money pit. I have at least twenty Traxxas RC's 1/16 -1/10 but as soon as they built the 1/7 scale XO-1 and X-Maxx they made it impossible to racing those models with any other brand.
If you are running hobbywing there is a racing feature that is called "Coast". It will add a minuscule amount of throttle when you let go of the throttle to eliminate motor/gearing drag.. You can add 10% and it will eliminate that pronounced drag of the belt.
How do we access those settings?
I'm about to order a G2 combo and wanna know if I need to order something else to do all that goodness (I'm very new to the hobby, running a Sledge)!
Belt drive is nice my redcat 30cc motor pushes hard been 3 years now n same belt n drive very good stuff
Since its a tooth belt u dont need a lot of tension, and then it should not increase drag that much. Get a reinforced quality belt with kevlar instead of over tensioning would be my suggestion for the drag.
6:09 is why my shelf queens are exactly that. Too many aftermarket parts usually kills reliability.
For belt drives you want very little tension on the belt, as the motor torques up the belt it will get super tight by nature.
We use HTD drive belts on our 1:1 race cars that have dry sump oil pumps and you would be surprised at just how loose you can run the belts.
It would be so cool if they made something like that for the DB XLE
WOW what a Mega X-Maxx! A great idea with the drive and kalsse implemented. I think it sounds great with it
👌
You will make it work some people had a really hard time with it but pretty sure that the installation was not correct...
Would be interesting to see a FULL belt conversion on one of these :)
Heat from a belt drive is pretty normal. And they can take quite a bit of heat before it becomes an issue. I've bullied some belt drives in my life and I can tell you they're hard to kill 😉
Man that was such a light hit, can’t believe that broke it?! Sick build though. 🔥
HI Joe so far so good looking forward to seeing LONG term Sir. Hope you have a great week Joe 🇬🇧🇺🇲🕊️✌🏼👍🏼
Watch how tight you make it… As that style belt heats up they shrink. Same belt a roots blower runs on a engine. I have 1.5” total deflection both ways when cold, and when it’s fully warmed up there’s zero!
Are you sure it's not from the metal engine parts expanding and increasing the pulley distance? Very few materials shrink as they heat up.
Shrink as it gets warm?
@@ExocagedRC blower belt is nylon reinforced… Ever cut a tow strap and melt the end with a torch to fix the frayed end? It shrinks…
@@Hobz79 blower belt is nylon reinforced… Ever cut a tow strap and melt the end with a torch to fix the frayed end? It shrinks… The engine and blower don’t expand 1.5”…
@@Hobz79 blower belt is nylon reinforced… Ever cut a tow strap and melt the end with a torch to fix the frayed end? It shrinks… The engine and blower don’t expand 1.5”…
Nice conversion. I wonder if the belt need to break in some. If it's to tight that might be an issue. It sure sounds good. 👍👍
I would like to see the belt drive in a more stock xmaxx
GOTTA be careful! If anything gets under either pulley, it shreds the belt. (OR used to 20 years ago.) Used to use a similar version for offroad & oval. Super EFFICIENT & did add runtime back then. But technology 2 decades ago wasn't what it is now.
Hydra drive? That's what mine was on the off road!
Awesome stuff Joe!! Thank you sir for the review. Have a great weekend brother
Brilliant video mate lovely truck on 12s lots of power bud 👍👏
Had the Kyosho Turbo Optima Mid 4wd belt in mid-late 90s. Was awesome.
I would put some hole in the belt cover so it can move some air that’s y it’s hot or run a small tube like on sxs for air movement
Dang Bro !! That motor is the size of a pop can ! Also if you are concerned about heat build up on the belt shroud maybe you could pt a couple of vent holes on the back side of it cause you really didn't run it that hard to get a maximum heat test .
Great video man I love the belt drives I used to get them off of eBay from a guy Stern-CNC who used to sell them from Germany. We use them on all the fifth scales mainly on the red cat 1/5 scales because of how their gears are in perfect alignment you can get overdrive underdrive and one to one ratio. I believe the guy still sells them. From what I hear they’re actually part of some kind of Volkswagen transmissions. I ran these on mine when I lived in Jacksonville years ago. Stern-CNC is still around doing them with all the diff size belts and gear ratios. Keep up the awesome vids man!!!!
Maybe the belt is too tight preventing enough air through the cogs. Like a timing belt on a car with adjustable tensioner…it will creat that howl noise and a to tight belt and overheat the belt.
Possibly being aluminum cogs transfer heat into the motor/stator shaft and breaking down the motor bearings..a thought to have. Maybe warming the rubber to de-lamination. Idk a thought from your cable ties underneath the mount. Beautiful build.
-and for inflating the industry financially no. I mean a hobby has no priority in life. So for an after market segment that traxxas will most likely pay no attention I would say the cost of vehicles stays where They are at.
-this starts from crawlers we say oh they cost so much more. Yes but we get inner fenders full interiors some times dig in transmissions over drives hi steer angles, two speeds abs bodies accents, locking axles. Yes more money but usually cheaper from factory then adding after and under equipped rig.
I’d prefer mechanical brakes with belt drive setup. Seems like a lot of stress on belt to have to brake and accelerate the vehicle but wow absolutely love how smooth it sounds eliminating those metal to metal gears. Large spur gear creates most of the noise. Nice to customize mechanical brakes that will brake the driveshafts keepn the strain off the belt itself helpn longevity of the belt.
Wow, nice mod, gotta love the xmaxx!
Joe - let's be honest there was nothing 12s about this run... Lol you babied that truck unlike you would have if you ran it with gears. But but I still stand behind my Tuesdays live comment. Even if you run it on 8s I wanna see a real Joe aka Mr. Exoplex bash session.
I would say that easy 12S run was pretty much a 8S run...it's gonna work!!
I was getting more confident in it but then the axle broke off.
Awesome video my friend nice 😊 share good stuff on the belt driveshaft great job thumbs up 👍
Track looks great!
Loving that !! Excellent run
I run an electric skateboard with HTD belts it likes them loose let the cogs do the work tight belt robs power
Taking your color set up 🤙🏼
Not bad bro , i lke that it’s simple running
Nice! Where did you get that 3rd bearing for the Cush drive input shaft? I couldn’t find it anywhere. I’ve always wondered why Traxxas left the end of the shaft unsupported. Good content
Hello my friend great content plus I love your accent I from NYC and you have such a cool
Accent and you would definitely recognize my NYC accent
Forgettaboutit lmao
And your home track
Is perfect you always are so calm and collective, and us your viewer's you explain things so easily and we learn so much R/C stuff from you well done my brother, your good dude my man if no one told your awesome well your awesome. I have been collecting R/C cars and trucks since 2005 and I now have around 35 vehicles or so a lot of nitro trucks I and on road nitro, but then lipos and brushless motors came into play around 2008 and I love your collection as well, just wanted to
Say hi thanks your friendly neighborhood Doorman william from NYC forgettaboutit 👊 😀 lol ha ha God Bless you my brother 🙏
Im still not running that belt drive system on my xmaxx, i am very satisfied with my vitavon spyr and pinion set up on a vitavon motor mount with hobbywing 1100kv and a mamba xlx2 esc.
Patton hobbies also does belt drive systems also
For offroad use, belts are terrible (in my experience) lose or tight it would heat up my motor I run a leopard 1050kv with max 5. To be fair, I did run 1:1 ratio, 30/30. I still believe gears are superior. Belts for speed, gears for bash. Having to adjust the belt is annoying
A
How are you keeping that thing from flipping over backwards when you floor it!! It has a problem with that at 8 cells. Only thing I can figure is a setting on your controller or maybe a slipper?!
Driver mod. Plus punch only at 6 and lack of traction.
the worse thing you can do is over tighten a belt . its cogged so it dont have to be . you can buy kevlar cogged belts . this isnt the 80s anymore.
I tried the belt drive on mine for a hot minute. Ripped it out after the first run. The belt was slipping, and I felt like if I got it any tighter, it would pull at the motor shaft too much.
Yeah. I’ll give this another run soon.
Good vids man love my xmaxx
Man that thing is wicked!
Great sound!!!!
Thanks for the video.
Question: I have the x maxx. 1100kv, max6 and other upgrades.
But my diffs keep breaking, center, front and rear. Are you having that problem too? What oil do you use?
I picked up a 6s xmaxx, converted it to 8s, ive got the proline beadlocks and badlands. I can't keep rear ring and pinions in it to save my life. All brand new bearings, any ideas?
Belts need more play then u think it looked almost good the first time maybe half of what u shimed it learned belts from Harleys motorcycle they have more teeth ingagement so u want the play to keep from blowing out bearings and over heating the belt . Good think to watch is tension super charger belt belt drive cycles gives u good info on how much flex a belt need and just down scale u will have to retention time to time and using a temp gun help to show belt heat helps to know if u are to tight .keep up great work and have great day.
Love it deff think I’m going that direction still in the middle of my build going way more stock so I think belt would b perfect just stuck on hatchets or stock leaning twards hatchets what’s your input
Damn nice if only you could put a one way bearing on the drve shaft pulley I mean who needs brakes anyway.
Bought a belt drive and was the biggest waste of money. Same gear ratio as I had with gears but it was so stupid slow. With gears I could do about 60mph and wheelie all the time. With the belt I could wide open throttle and barely hit 35mph
Sweet bro
Looks Cool
This looks hopeful
i had my belt drive on my xmaxx with the castle 800k was super smooth and fun but after a few runs the belt would stretch and would have to keep adjusting it for tension just was unreliable
WFO has had a belt drive for about 2 to 3 or more years now. And I think you alr4eady reviewed it before.
i have never had a belt drive RC, but I have a belt on my motorcycle, i think a belt would be a great setup, belts are tough , they can handle alot of power, gears dont have much contact, a belt has so much contact area,
Belts rob a ton of power
I hope he didn’t rip you off too much, he throws a hissy fit and burns stickers when he’s called out, those are just 3d printer gears, they’re available on eBay, aliexpress and maybe even Amazon
Yeah idk what they are from but so far they held, granted I didn’t get to do the big jump.
Are you running the Vitavon ring and pinion gears for the front and rear differentials?
Stock right now
Seems to be a lil tight
I wish I had one of those,I'd lower it and make a rat rod out of one.
Top 10 👍🔥
People spend as much on upgrades as the vehicle itself . I go for the cheap upgrades .
For cost of the upgrades he has he could buy couple xmaxes hah
This trucks upgrades are reaching 3x - 5x the original cost. Yes folks are fortunate to be able to do this, but as a man trying to make UA-cam full time he has to continue to invest and upgrade. It's the style of his channel. It's why I love it. All the tinkering. He isn't showboating just building a brand.
The average person in the hobby couldn't afford half that vitavon stuff but its fun to watch.
@@outlawrc63 you can buy it one piece at a time. ThAts what I do. I just buy something here and there until I get what I want. My ryft has almost everything vitavon offers but it took me awhile to get it all. I just got axle shafts and drive shafts a week or 2 ago.
or you could buy a used 1/10 and stop complaining about what others do with money, and get your money up.
can it be used on the regular maxx? or is there a version specific for it?
Chris Olsen is the best, what a nice dude! glad thats working out man.
Hey what weight diff oil are you using in the front and rear ?
is this better than gears?
Just seems that belt would rub smooth fast
Is that a Gates Belt?
Vitabroke!
Belt is too tight (IMHO anyway!)
I bet the person who designed this ,are working on a belt-tensioner.
Those belt drives look so damn clean!! Gear drives are noisy and ugly as hell.
NIIIICE 👍🏻
Man you really need to get rid of those awesome rims they are just too much mass
They are heavy for sure
Awesome 🎉
Gilmer belts work on 12000 hp top fuel cars so no reason it shouldn’t work on a 12s x maxx
Heat and rubber don't mix. Belt is to tight. That brushless motor's shaft isn't made for that type of pre-load. All belt systems are made to have deflection in them. Pinion and spur gears have zero pressure on them. What were you thinking about when you install those nylon ties?
I have been running a belt on my ride for years.....lol....Harley runs forever...lol
Theaters zero chance of that belt drive working on a hard run.
I didn’t really have a chance to do much. I will later though
put 4 motors
Waste of money really..extra weight not fast at all 😂
I have 3, this is my blingy shiny one. The others are lighter by a lot
Still prefer gears😂
ALUMINUM A ARMS ARE JUNK .... RPM ... THE ONLY WAY TO GO
Do you own a losi 5ive t
Ok
@@justonjacoby4455 that's not exo. But he has a 5b I believe
@@rc-daily ok thanks
😁👍
한국에 사는 구독자겸펜입니다 영상잘받써요
Thank you buddy
전영어를못해요
I feel like I was watching a rich 12 year old 😐😐😐
Belt is to tight
Belt is too tight
👍👍👊🏻👊🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
PSA don’t buy anything from Chris. He is rude.
Too heavy BUT totally awesome build and video!
Was it always that slow? My E-Maxx would wheel-stand past that thing like its sitting still. It seams to me that everybody that buys an X-Maxx does nothing but dump money into a money pit. I have at least twenty Traxxas RC's 1/16 -1/10 but as soon as they built the 1/7 scale XO-1 and X-Maxx they made it impossible to racing those models with any other brand.
Why?