I think I figured out my issue 🤞 I tried again last night to follow your method, and right before I went to brush on the resin, I caught myself going to pinch the brush vigorously with my fingertips in an attempt to pull out any loose hairs. Then it occurred to me that I am essentially just wiping all the oil on my fingertips all over the brush(and the brush was brand new, in an attempt to rule out any variables) so I did not punch or otherwise touch the bristles, I brushed on the resin, put it on the Turner, let it spin, and then turned on the lights. I posted a short on my channel of the result, it turned out OK
This video helped me out. I started using the poly before clear coating because I've seen you do it. What I learned is that I need to cut it 15% and clean my brush better after using it. I was cleaning my airbrush like I would when I sprayed paint through it. I did clean it with alcohol however. But, I noticed the gun does not spray right afterwards. Now I know that I need to scrub that stuff really well, thank you.
Such a great tip. I used this for the first time yesterday after seeing this video. Such a difference. I’ll never do another lure without using polycrylic in the process. Thank you 👍
Hi there, I just wanted to say a massive thank you for this video! I have been having continual trouble trying to get a perfect clear coat for months. Certain paints would react all the time, and moisture problems where constant! I watched this, got some Min Wax, and I simply can't believe the difference. Thank you, this was THE BEST TIP I have ever found from a Lure build video hands down! 🙏
Thanks for all your info. I bought a can and a spray can of the poly acrylic. I’ve used the spray can on about 100 baits so far. It certainly does help with making the UV clear stick good and not have separation over certain areas of the bait. My issue now is trying to figure out how the heck to get rid of those little tiny micro air bubbles I get. I’ve tried heat with my heat gun and it doesn’t seem to get all of them out. When time allows, or should I say when work allows me the time I’ll set up one of my spare airbrushes and try your airbrush technique
I've missed a few episodes over the last couple of months as I've got into building boats but I'm glad I caught this one. My problem was paint running after applying two part epoxy which cleared up after I started sealing the paint with UV resin but when I get back to making lures again I'll definitely try this hack.
Hi , Franko !! It was to my shock, the Minmax which i received was satin finish. Any way it was issue with the vendor packing, and i wanted to give it shot with satin finish on 6 salvage lures. I mixed it with distilled water as suggested by you max 15% by volume. I did 3 coats with a gape of 5 minutes each and after few hours did top coat of envirotex lite . Kept on dry wheel for about 3-4 hours. I was surprise with the results today morning. There were no missing spots , fisheyes , air bubbles, infect i had few small air bubbles on the eyes with the first 3 coats of etx before spraying Minmax, they have gone now. There were few damage spots near the belly eye also which are not be seen now. They turned out to be crystal clear. Fantastic tip, Franko at least for me as i have been struggle all these years and lost so many lures after top coat. You tip came a good time as i was planning to try something else for the top coat. Thank you so much from the bottom of my heart for sharing the tip very which very crucial for all the lure maker. With best Regards, Raghubir
Hi , Franko !! I have been watch your posts for quiet sometime now. By profession i am HR Manager and lure making , hobby developed over a period of time when i caught descent size barracuda on my home made first lure. This lure happens to be a popper and painted with spray paints with 2 part epoxy as top coat. I am expat living in Dubai for last 12-14 years and for last 10 years i am into lure making on my week ends and holidays. I wanted to peruse this hobby to become full time hand made lure maker. The biggest problem i am having since i started this hobby was clear top coat and having been facing problem one after the another. I have been using etx all these years and still have the product. You have rightly point out that after putting lot of efforts in lure making one end up spoiling the lure while doing the top coat. I have no issues with air bubbles but get fish eyes and un even bump of hardening coat, i have been struggling as of now. Second coat does help to over come these issues but adds wt to the lure and thus action . Through this post of yours ,let me try your option of mid coat and if it does the job well like yours i will be on the top of the word. Today i have just received Minmax from USA and will give it a shot this week end, very optimistic on the outcome. Please note i do take care of not touching the lure with bare hands right from painting till the top coat dries. Thanks for sharing your tips based on your hard work of experimenting with a scientific approach. Regards, Raghubir
A couple of other suggestions. You can use an acrylic clear coat spray aerosol can (top coat used on cars) prior to the epoxy layer. Probably a little more expensive but ready to go without dilution or the clean up. I use wet and dry sand paper between coats of epoxy. Ensure that the initial epoxy layer is fully hardened and sand very lightly so that you do not go through the epoxy and into the paint work (speaking from experience).
I don’t want to dwell on how interesting and, above all, very well explained they are. I wanted to ask you, regarding dilution instead of water why not use isopropyl alcohol which reduces drying time. I take this opportunity to ask you if you can make a specialized video as you place the ballast, as you calculate how many grams of lead are needed to put in an artificial. Thank you... from Italy
The manufacturer recommends using distilled water. I go through the process of the weight calculations on almost all my lure design/build videos. Since each type of lure will have a slightly different calculation I think it is best to see the process as part of a build.
Thank you I did buy some product off your Amazon store. I tried spraying foil with lacquer, and it did damage the foil so then I tried a sample with polyacrylic and it worked great. Thank you.
Thanks for sharing the valuable info! I have been making a fairly unique/experimental 4.5" mullet lure with the intention of using it to catch trout inshore. I got everything perfect, used your method to find where to put the weight, and did my first paint job with sprayed on scales - then I was impatient and absolutely ruined the thing with epoxy clearcoat because it was way too cold in the garage and the epoxy didn't flow and self-level before it kicked off. I gotta take another page out of your book and get some uv clear and do the polycyclic trick. Thanks!
I just made 5 lures for Christmas gifts and had this very problem. A few small areas on each lure the clear-coat separated and left small holes in the finish, not sure if that's what everyone calls "fish eyes". I have another lure ready to paint and am giving your tip a try! Thanks Franco!
@@EngineeredAngler Franco, I tried spraying a coat of 85%/15% Polycrylic as you suggested and it worked like a charm. It was on a small Fat Cat style lure, and there were no problem areas with the TrueCoat, and I put two layer of clear coat on it. I will continue doing this just to make sure it wasn't beginner's luck. LOL Thanks for the suggestion!
Great tip! One caution, I have found that polyacrylic damage metallic nail foil if applied directly to the foil surface. The only thing I’ve found that doesn’t damage that surface is epoxy (UV or two part).
@@EngineeredAngler One caveat is that I have only used the aerosol version of the Minwax Polyacryclic....possible that whatever the aerosol/propellant is is the culprit, not the polyacryclic itself?
I think you should check out this channel African lure craftsman. He does this technique to make gills easier on the bait out of cardboard. It would be cool to see on your channel also.
Thanks for the video ! I use acrylic paint, what should I use to clean when paint is dry? If I do the coating right after and spread with a brush, coat is kinda retracting in some small areas, and result is ugly…
Thank you for a year filled with hints, tips, advice etc throughout your journey of building lures. Merry Christmas and a Healthy New Year to you and your family 👍😷👍
nice work Sir, like your little paint booth. We own a pew shop, so having something like this would be a big help. thanks for the idea, may make a video of it
Nicely done video, however after watching it closely, twice, I never did find out what you used for the clearcoat. And that was the whole point in watching it to begin with. Since I 'searched' for Amazing Clear Cast Plus videos, iI'll assume that's what it was. But I don't know.
The video is about using Polycrytic before you clear coat with any clear coat. But in the video I use UV cure epoxy as my clear coat and you can find that in my Amazon store, there's a link in the description.
Great video thank you! You answered a ton of my questions. Before adding the polycrylic midcoat to a bait that has been painted with acrylics can I wipe the bait with alcohol prior to applying the midcoat or will it wipe the paint off the lure? Thank you!
Another great video Franco! Your latest video is the first thing I look for On a Saturday morning. While I know you won't know asking here in the hope that someone else in Aus knows of a source or alternative for minwax polycrylic in Australia? I have looked for it but only found very expensive drop shipping from the US.
Wow thanks so much for Supporting the channel through your purchase. Every little bit helps me get better camera equipment sound equipment, and even keeps me on the water. Thanks so much and have a merry Christmas.
Merry Christmass and Happy New Year, have been watching Your videos,they are amazing,and I always find the great stuff in them. Keep up the good vibe,very good work.
I use that same clear coat you have but I no noticed that the baits get sticky when they get hot later. Like leaving in a tackle box. I’ve had customers bring back the baits cause of this. I have no idea why it’s doing this and I’m wondering if you have experienced this and if you have a solution. Love the videos btw
You're probably not leaving the lure in the lights long enough. But, you can try wiping them down with denatured alcohol when you pull them out. They sometimes have a verry thin oily film and that can become tacky.
Hi, One last question on this. After paint you wipe it down with alcohol before the polyacrilic. So on a wooden plug using a 2 part epoxy should I wipe with alcohol the next day when I clear coat?thank you..
Thanks for the videos! 1. For a point if clarification, to re-paint lures that have tooth marks [I have some that I did but am not happy with paint job], do I lightly sand it, polyacrylic it, and then re-paint it? Or, lightly sand, paint, polyacrylic? 2. If I have lures I've fished with, what would you recommend to re-clear coat? Do I clean the lure with alcohol, polyacrylic, then clear coat? Sorry for the double questions, and TIA.
For old lures give it a light sanding, clean it with alcohol, paint it as you want, then polyeacrylic, then clear coat. Don't try to clean fresh paint or polyeacrylic with the alcohol. Good luck.
Thanks Franco! Been asking for your process details for a while, this answers my questions! Appreciate you sharing them! Wonder if the thinned polycrylic can be applied with a plastic spray bottle (would save wear and tear on the airbrush), will test that and get back with comments. Seasons greetings! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Franco the lure holder when you spray them is that a harbor freight handyhands & if so what did you use to convert the holder so it rotates. Thank you for responding to all questions .👍
Followed you directions exactly with the exact poly and the exact resin. I got horrible fisheye. 😢 Only thing I can think of after watching video again, maybe I didn’t wait long enough for the poly to dry? Only waited 20 mins.
So you have a video of the best clear coat (east coast resins). Do you still only wait 1-2 hours before you coat with that 2 part epoxy over the Polycrylic?
Thanks Franco! I have a spare airbrush with a 0.35mm nozzle and see at least one other question related to needle/nozzle size to spray it adequately, so I'll second that question - does this require a 0.50mm setup or will the smaller size work? Also - how are the fumes? My shop is a shared space with cars, laundry, even a home office corner, so ventilation isn't the greatest. Being water-based I would think it wouldn't be bad, but wanted to ask nonetheless. Thanks again!
Made lures many years ago and this stopped me making the I used the two tun had great results ran out re ordered and the same stuff suddenly bubbled every time no matter what humidity. I never made a one in 10 years but looking to see how things have moved on.
Hi there Franco,,just wondering about those 2 coats you spray,,,how saturated do you cover the lure ,,after the second coat I can see an uneven finish is that normal?? Cheers Guy 🇬🇧 uk keep up the great vids bud❤
Hey there Franco.. I had a few issues and questions.. Getting Createx / other paints that you've recommended here in Malaysia is impossible as nobody imports them I guess.. Could i substitute that with Lacquer paint (HobbyMio pre-thinned model paints).. Or how do i dilute normal acrylic paints like Reeves, Monami etc to paint or just spray without diluting but it seems thick and won't go well with my airbrush.. A local lure maker did suggest me with some automotive rattle spray paints and yet to try that as it sure takes awhile to finish them.. 2ndly - Clear Coats Similar to the airbrush paint.. Quite hard to find which to use.. Epoxy resins are all from China not sure which are non yellowing/hard enough to withstand a few bites from toothy local game fish (from saltwater Barras to freshwater Giant Snakeheads).. I did find similar China UV Resin like yours on Ebay would that be good enough? And how many layers should i go with.. And if i dont have space for a chamber like yours could i jz do a simple rotating device to get the UV resin even then dry using a nail polish UV device afterwards without spinning.. Finally found a substitute for Minwax Polycrylic from a local seller and gonna try it out to seal and mid coat my paints.. Tried foil then paint using the model paint mentioned and it didn't work well. Paint was peeling off after touching.. btw Minwax is costing RM 350+ for A litre! Gonna go budget as Im just starting and making lures for fun. 😅 Thanks in advance, Douglas.
As far as the durability of uv resin, it sets harder than most resins and does not yellow. The truth is nothing will stand up to the teeth of an angry barracuda or the jaw power of a snake head. Put on as many coats as you have the patience for (3 minimum) and go for it.
Thankks for the tutorial! Just bought my first can of polycrylic based on your other videos. Looking on the back of the can though I was hesitant to put it through my airbrush and make it airborne with the caution labels about inhalation hazards. What precautions do you take to ensure you aren't breathing it in when spraying?
That Polycrylic is £25 for half a pint crazy pricing would not pay that would rather just put the UV resin just straight on top, you could not even dip them as the tin is to small.
If you're getting good results without it....don't use it. I just find that my clearcoat is almost sure to be perfect when I use it. I spray it on and and a pint lasts a long time.
Hi there Franco, Guy here from the uk ,I'm intrested in the polycyclic, the minwax is incredibly expensive,,about 25£ for a half quart,,I bought it anyway ,diluted with15% water ,done every thing you advised,,,really happy with the result,,,one issue though ,I've sourced a cheaper supplier overseas not the USA,,but I then realised there are different types of minwax polycyclic,,,I've got one that says crystal clear topcoat and on examining your vid yours said protective coating ,,,,what's the diffeŕance?? Can you maybe clarify for me ? Thanks again, great vids,guy fishing for sea bass in cornwall uk
Hi, have you tried KBS diamond finish instead of UV resin for the final touch? I found my 3D printed lure is unable to be coated with UV resin as I made a detachable weight chamber on it and the snap part will be over cured.
@@EngineeredAngler im thinking to use the polycrylic as a midcoat and hopefully it will protect my chome-like paint from polyurethane(with may contain thinner/solvant).
Would polyacrilic used as midcoat over foiled baits, provide better bond to 2 part epoxies finishes that follow? Adhering to foiled surfaces have always been a challenge
No. I only use pledge to conserve the chrome look on spray chrome that will dull with normal clearcoat. I'll cover the answer more completely in an upcoming video. Thanks.
I have a bottle of Pledge but I saw this Quick Shine Pure Floor Wax yesterday and will be testing it soon. Wondered if you had tried this one yet as a Pledge replacement?
Hi Franko, I enjoy your channel. I'm not nearly as meticulous or scientific as you and I kinda suck at painting, but I am pretty good at designing lures that perform well in terms of action. My biggest issue continues to be keeping my diving lips clean and free from blemishes - scratches, glue crud and so on. No matter how careful I am with painters tape they nearly always end up blemishes and lexan, tough as it is, scratches really easily. I'm trying to come up with a process where adding the lip is the last or nearly the last step. do you have any advice about this? thanks
Yes, that's what I prefer to do...put the lip in after the Polycrylic dries. This way the paint is protected while you glue in the lip. Use uv resin as glue this way if you're a bit messy you can just wipe it clean before you set it with the light.
You mentioned dipping or spraying. Don't like fuss of cleaning airbrush, paint area not set up for that. Can I just brush on the polycrylic? Straight or diluted?
The results speak for themselves. I am still a bit skeptical probably based off how piss poor the quality of polyacrylic was when it first came out but I might give this a try.
Hey i have a question! Ive been doing this per the instruction and my two part epoxy still seperates on the first coat. Any idea what i can do to stop that?
@@EngineeredAngler yes that is what i mean and no the polycrylic stays put good then i put the epoxy over and it and it seperates. Any pointers would help.
Try this, take a small piece of PVC pipe lightly sand and clean it with alcohol, then apply the Polycrylic let dry and apply the clearcoat. If you get a bad finish, your clearcoat is not compatible with the Polycrylic. If you get a good finish try it again with a new PVC, but paint the PVC with your lure paint, before you apply the mid-coat and clearcoat. Now if you get a good finish the problem is with the wood or casting resin you are using or the material your using to seal it. If you get a bad finish the problem is with the paint. Good luck.
Which particular devcon 2ton epoxy is best for final coat and what is drying time without curing under uv, and which epoxy for quick bill placent ? Thanks in advance !!! What is d drying time of minwax polycrylic for sealing the lure ???
I've seen your other videos on UV clear coating. You said you're able to spray it on... What size airbrush are you using for it? My Iwata's .3mm nozzle has a hard time spraying a balancing medium. Would you recommend a .5mm or should I be looking at a bottom feed airbrush?
CAN YOU PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR PROFESSIONAL OPINION AND TELL ME IF A SILICONE SPRAY CAN FROM HOME DEPOT GOOD TO WATERPROOF AND GIVE MY OLD BEAT-UP LURES A CLEAR SHINY AND LONG-LASTING FINISH ??
My wife has used Polycrylic on her tumbler cups over white glitter to seal it and it turned yellow in a short amount of time. Does it have uv inhibitors? And have you had that issue on lighter colors?
Thank you Franco I am pouring lead jigs some acrylic paint & others powder coated , want to foil stamp & clear coat over them would this work on them? the jigs are 8-10oz can I foil stamp over powder c & clear coat to help protect them (epoxy) Thank you
I've very recently started carving some lures and need to figure out clear coating them. Does anyone have a process that doesn't involve the UV curing? Being so new to it I can't really justify/plan that at this time. Update: reading these comments it appears the final coating is epoxy? I guess i could try to find a clear epoxy that doesnt require the UV cure for my first few lures?
I just bought an 8 oz. Can of the minwax polycrilic clear satin that says its water resistant but I dont know how long it's going to last, if anyone knows
@@EngineeredAngler I watched 1 of those videos before posting my previous comment, and the results on the spoons were okay but not as mirror finish as I would prefer. I specifically asked about this clear coat out of curiosity, unknowing if you had also previously tested it before.
That end part with Google was funny as HECK! Still laughing about it! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and lure making journey!
I think I figured out my issue 🤞 I tried again last night to follow your method, and right before I went to brush on the resin, I caught myself going to pinch the brush vigorously with my fingertips in an attempt to pull out any loose hairs. Then it occurred to me that I am essentially just wiping all the oil on my fingertips all over the brush(and the brush was brand new, in an attempt to rule out any variables) so I did not punch or otherwise touch the bristles, I brushed on the resin, put it on the Turner, let it spin, and then turned on the lights. I posted a short on my channel of the result, it turned out OK
This video helped me out. I started using the poly before clear coating because I've seen you do it. What I learned is that I need to cut it 15% and clean my brush better after using it. I was cleaning my airbrush like I would when I sprayed paint through it. I did clean it with alcohol however. But, I noticed the gun does not spray right afterwards. Now I know that I need to scrub that stuff really well, thank you.
Such a great tip. I used this for the first time yesterday after seeing this video. Such a difference. I’ll never do another lure without using polycrylic in the process. Thank you 👍
So happy to here it helped. When I discovered using polycrylic it felt like the holy grail.
Hi there, I just wanted to say a massive thank you for this video! I have been having continual trouble trying to get a perfect clear coat for months. Certain paints would react all the time, and moisture problems where constant! I watched this, got some Min Wax, and I simply can't believe the difference. Thank you, this was THE BEST TIP I have ever found from a Lure build video hands down! 🙏
You're very welcome!
Thanks for all your info. I bought a can and a spray can of the poly acrylic. I’ve used the spray can on about 100 baits so far. It certainly does help with making the UV clear stick good and not have separation over certain areas of the bait. My issue now is trying to figure out how the heck to get rid of those little tiny micro air bubbles I get. I’ve tried heat with my heat gun and it doesn’t seem to get all of them out. When time allows, or should I say when work allows me the time I’ll set up one of my spare airbrushes and try your airbrush technique
I've missed a few episodes over the last couple of months as I've got into building boats but I'm glad I caught this one. My problem was paint running after applying two part epoxy which cleared up after I started sealing the paint with UV resin but when I get back to making lures again I'll definitely try this hack.
Hi , Franko !! It was to my shock, the Minmax which i received was satin finish. Any way it was issue with the vendor packing, and i wanted to give it shot with satin finish on 6 salvage lures.
I mixed it with distilled water as suggested by you max 15% by volume. I did 3 coats with a gape of 5 minutes each and after few hours did top coat of envirotex lite . Kept on dry wheel for about 3-4 hours.
I was surprise with the results today morning. There were no missing spots , fisheyes , air bubbles, infect i had few small air bubbles on the eyes with the first 3 coats of etx before spraying Minmax, they have gone now. There were few damage spots near the belly eye also which are not be seen now. They turned out to be crystal clear.
Fantastic tip, Franko at least for me as i have been struggle all these years and lost so many lures after top coat. You tip came a good time as i was planning to try something else for the top coat.
Thank you so much from the bottom of my heart for sharing the tip very which very crucial for all the lure maker.
With best Regards, Raghubir
So happy for you. I know when I discovered the minwax trick I was supper happy with the huge improvement in my clear finishes. Cheers.
Hi , Franko !!
I have been watch your posts for quiet sometime now.
By profession i am HR Manager and lure making , hobby developed over a period of time when i caught descent size barracuda on my home made first lure. This lure happens to be a popper and painted with spray paints with 2 part epoxy as top coat. I am expat living in Dubai for last 12-14 years and for last 10 years i am into lure making on my week ends and holidays. I wanted to peruse this hobby to become full time hand made lure maker.
The biggest problem i am having since i started this hobby was clear top coat and having been facing problem one after the another. I have been using etx all these years and still have the product.
You have rightly point out that after putting lot of efforts in lure making one end up spoiling the lure while doing the top coat.
I have no issues with air bubbles but get fish eyes and un even bump of hardening coat, i have been struggling as of now. Second coat does help to over come these issues but adds wt to the lure and thus action .
Through this post of yours ,let me try your option of mid coat and if it does the job well like yours i will be on the top of the word. Today i have just received Minmax from USA and will give it a shot this week end, very optimistic on the outcome. Please note i do take care of not touching the lure with bare hands right from painting till the top coat dries.
Thanks for sharing your tips based on your hard work of experimenting with a scientific approach.
Regards, Raghubir
Hope you have As much success with the minwax as I hav. Cheers
Great tips on getting the results I was looking for. Worked perfectly. Thank you!!!
Great to hear!
A couple of other suggestions. You can use an acrylic clear coat spray aerosol can (top coat used on cars) prior to the epoxy layer. Probably a little more expensive but ready to go without dilution or the clean up. I use wet and dry sand paper between coats of epoxy. Ensure that the initial epoxy layer is fully hardened and sand very lightly so that you do not go through the epoxy and into the paint work (speaking from experience).
Not as dear as Polycrylic
Another very informed blog. I can actually get what you use here in the UK.
Great to hear!
I don’t want to dwell on how interesting and, above all, very well explained they are. I wanted to ask you, regarding dilution instead of water why not use isopropyl alcohol which reduces drying time. I take this opportunity to ask you if you can make a specialized video as you place the ballast, as you calculate how many grams of lead are needed to put in an artificial. Thank you... from Italy
The manufacturer recommends using distilled water. I go through the process of the weight calculations on almost all my lure design/build videos. Since each type of lure will have a slightly different calculation I think it is best to see the process as part of a build.
Thank you I did buy some product off your Amazon store. I tried spraying foil with lacquer, and it did damage the foil so then I tried a sample with polyacrylic and it worked great. Thank you.
Glad I could help!
Thanks for sharing the valuable info! I have been making a fairly unique/experimental 4.5" mullet lure with the intention of using it to catch trout inshore. I got everything perfect, used your method to find where to put the weight, and did my first paint job with sprayed on scales - then I was impatient and absolutely ruined the thing with epoxy clearcoat because it was way too cold in the garage and the epoxy didn't flow and self-level before it kicked off. I gotta take another page out of your book and get some uv clear and do the polycyclic trick. Thanks!
The clearcoat is either the thing that makes it or breaks it. It's worth it when you have a gem at the end.
Thanks for the info! I have been having trouble with my clear coat.
Happy to help!
Look forward to all you videos!!!
I have used other things to midcoat and they also helped the top coat. Avoiding fish eyes etc. Good video.
Good to know!
I just made 5 lures for Christmas gifts and had this very problem. A few small areas on each lure the clear-coat separated and left small holes in the finish, not sure if that's what everyone calls "fish eyes". I have another lure ready to paint and am giving your tip a try! Thanks Franco!
I think you'll be surprised how well it works.
@@EngineeredAngler Franco, I tried spraying a coat of 85%/15% Polycrylic as you suggested and it worked like a charm. It was on a small Fat Cat style lure, and there were no problem areas with the TrueCoat, and I put two layer of clear coat on it. I will continue doing this just to make sure it wasn't beginner's luck. LOL Thanks for the suggestion!
definitely want to see that new lure design build... and water action!
Coming soon!
Great tip! One caution, I have found that polyacrylic damage metallic nail foil if applied directly to the foil surface. The only thing I’ve found that doesn’t damage that surface is epoxy (UV or two part).
that's is surprising
@@EngineeredAngler One caveat is that I have only used the aerosol version of the Minwax Polyacryclic....possible that whatever the aerosol/propellant is is the culprit, not the polyacryclic itself?
Thanks for all the information. You answered all my questions.
Great video ++
I think you should check out this channel African lure craftsman. He does this technique to make gills easier on the bait out of cardboard. It would be cool to see on your channel also.
Awesome. ❤
Thanks Franco. I just bought some polyacrylic for sealing but have been looking for a way to make the surface pristine for the epoxy clear.
I’ve been having trouble w peeling and this helps a ton!
Thanks for the tips. Gonna have to give this a go. My lures have been coming out great up until the clear coat :(
Good luck!
Thanks for the video ! I use acrylic paint, what should I use to clean when paint is dry? If I do the coating right after and spread with a brush, coat is kinda retracting in some small areas, and result is ugly…
Thanks for the great tips. Definitely going to use these.
Thank you for a year filled with hints, tips, advice etc throughout your journey of building lures. Merry Christmas and a Healthy New Year to you and your family 👍😷👍
Thank you for the views and the comments and have a Merry Christmas and a healthy holiday season.
Great idea to make the lures really pop. Have a very Merry Christmas and a prosperous new year.
Thanks you too
nice work Sir, like your little paint booth. We own a pew shop, so having something like this would be a big help. thanks for the idea, may make a video of it
Nicely done video, however after watching it closely, twice, I never did find out what you used for the clearcoat. And that was the whole point in watching it to begin with. Since I 'searched' for Amazing Clear Cast Plus videos, iI'll assume that's what it was. But I don't know.
The video is about using Polycrytic before you clear coat with any clear coat. But in the video I use UV cure epoxy as my clear coat and you can find that in my Amazon store, there's a link in the description.
Thanx.
thanks for making this video and all your wisdom EA
Glad you enjoyed it!
Do a video of old cheap baits and upgrading hooks with a new paint job. Or even those cheap clear bodies.
I just came across your channel and I am impressed and intrigued! You do great work!
Thanks so much. Subscribe and let me know what kind of builds you want to see.
Your work is impressive.
Thanks.
Great video thank you! You answered a ton of my questions. Before adding the polycrylic midcoat to a bait that has been painted with acrylics can I wipe the bait with alcohol prior to applying the midcoat or will it wipe the paint off the lure? Thank you!
No...you'll damage the paint. Just be sure your paint is dry and put on the mid-coat.
@@EngineeredAngler thank you!
Another great video Franco! Your latest video is the first thing I look for On a Saturday morning. While I know you won't know asking here in the hope that someone else in Aus knows of a source or alternative for minwax polycrylic in Australia? I have looked for it but only found very expensive drop shipping from the US.
Hope you find something...share if you do.
Love it..I learn so much on this channel..thanks for everything and merry Christmas..p.s I love your shirts that I ordered 🍻🎣
Wow thanks so much for Supporting the channel through your purchase. Every little bit helps me get better camera equipment sound equipment, and even keeps me on the water. Thanks so much and have a merry Christmas.
Merry Christmass and Happy New Year, have been watching Your videos,they are amazing,and I always find the great stuff in them. Keep up the good vibe,very good work.
Thank you! You too!
I use that same clear coat you have but I no noticed that the baits get sticky when they get hot later. Like leaving in a tackle box. I’ve had customers bring back the baits cause of this. I have no idea why it’s doing this and I’m wondering if you have experienced this and if you have a solution. Love the videos btw
You're probably not leaving the lure in the lights long enough. But, you can try wiping them down with denatured alcohol when you pull them out. They sometimes have a verry thin oily film and that can become tacky.
very informative and well thought out video 5 stars
Thank you
Hi,
One last question on this. After paint you wipe it down with alcohol before the polyacrilic. So on a wooden plug using a 2 part epoxy should I wipe with alcohol the next day when I clear coat?thank you..
I would...almost all resins develop a thin blush on the surface as they set.
Thanks for the videos! 1. For a point if clarification, to re-paint lures that have tooth marks [I have some that I did but am not happy with paint job], do I lightly sand it, polyacrylic it, and then re-paint it? Or, lightly sand, paint, polyacrylic? 2. If I have lures I've fished with, what would you recommend to re-clear coat? Do I clean the lure with alcohol, polyacrylic, then clear coat? Sorry for the double questions, and TIA.
For old lures give it a light sanding, clean it with alcohol, paint it as you want, then polyeacrylic, then clear coat. Don't try to clean fresh paint or polyeacrylic with the alcohol. Good luck.
Thanks Franco! Been asking for your process details for a while, this answers my questions! Appreciate you sharing them!
Wonder if the thinned polycrylic can be applied with a plastic spray bottle (would save wear and tear on the airbrush), will test that and get back with comments.
Seasons greetings! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
That is an excellent way to apply it, it's makes for a bit longer dry time since it has to drip. But it's quicker than dipping.
Franco the lure holder when you spray them is that a harbor freight handyhands & if so what did you use to convert the holder so it rotates. Thank you for responding to all questions .👍
Here are the videos where I make the mod.
ua-cam.com/video/u15UCw1kqx0/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/0HqATmkewOY/v-deo.html
Great info, have a merry Christmas!
Thanks, you too!
Was the clear coat at the end the same as the Polyacrylic?
If you dip to seal the wood is there any reason you can't or don't dip for the mid coat as well?
Spraying is faster
Thank you for your effort
it helps a lot
You are welcome!
New to the channel, do you have any specific techniques for applying glow paint?
Welcome I don't do much with glow in the dark paint but here's a video ua-cam.com/video/02_SAzJHKGI/v-deo.htmlsi=yzEV3PV7627GB-_d
Followed you directions exactly with the exact poly and the exact resin. I got horrible fisheye. 😢
Only thing I can think of after watching video again, maybe I didn’t wait long enough for the poly to dry? Only waited 20 mins.
Wow...I have never had fish eyes with this.
Are you using oil based paints?
@@EngineeredAngler no sir. Acrylic Airbrush paint
I know this is over a year old but yeah i'm experiencing the same, cannot pinpoint what it is.
Great video. Thx
So you have a video of the best clear coat (east coast resins). Do you still only wait 1-2 hours before you coat with that 2 part epoxy over the Polycrylic?
Yes
Thanks for the info.
You bet!
Great video. What PSI do you spray it at?
Around 25 to 30
Thanks Franco! I have a spare airbrush with a 0.35mm nozzle and see at least one other question related to needle/nozzle size to spray it adequately, so I'll second that question - does this require a 0.50mm setup or will the smaller size work? Also - how are the fumes? My shop is a shared space with cars, laundry, even a home office corner, so ventilation isn't the greatest. Being water-based I would think it wouldn't be bad, but wanted to ask nonetheless. Thanks again!
keep the air pressure low...and if that doesn't work dip it.
@@EngineeredAngler thx!
Does the clear coat need to be under the UV light in your chamber to cure? Can it just be turned until dry?
It only cures when exposed to UV
Made lures many years ago and this stopped me making the I used the two tun had great results ran out re ordered and the same stuff suddenly bubbled every time no matter what humidity. I never made a one in 10 years but looking to see how things have moved on.
I’m new to lure painting. My question is, why would you prefer Matte over Gloss? Feedback or suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance…
I prefer high gloss finishes it gives a greater flash in the water.
Would a good lacquer work as well or better than the polycrylic,? "DEFT" lacquer is a quality lacquer.
It might but it will definitely take longer to dry.
Thank you.
Hi there Franco,,just wondering about those 2 coats you spray,,,how saturated do you cover the lure ,,after the second coat I can see an uneven finish is that normal?? Cheers Guy 🇬🇧 uk keep up the great vids bud❤
No, that's just due to the edit. They get at least two complete coats.
@@EngineeredAngler haha ,,no yours look fine,,,I was talking about mine 😁thanks again
Hey there Franco.. I had a few issues and questions..
Getting Createx / other paints that you've recommended here in Malaysia is impossible as nobody imports them I guess.. Could i substitute that with Lacquer paint (HobbyMio pre-thinned model paints).. Or how do i dilute normal acrylic paints like Reeves, Monami etc to paint or just spray without diluting but it seems thick and won't go well with my airbrush.. A local lure maker did suggest me with some automotive rattle spray paints and yet to try that as it sure takes awhile to finish them..
2ndly - Clear Coats
Similar to the airbrush paint.. Quite hard to find which to use.. Epoxy resins are all from China not sure which are non yellowing/hard enough to withstand a few bites from toothy local game fish (from saltwater Barras to freshwater Giant Snakeheads).. I did find similar China UV Resin like yours on Ebay would that be good enough? And how many layers should i go with..
And if i dont have space for a chamber like yours could i jz do a simple rotating device to get the UV resin even then dry using a nail polish UV device afterwards without spinning..
Finally found a substitute for Minwax Polycrylic from a local seller and gonna try it out to seal and mid coat my paints.. Tried foil then paint using the model paint mentioned and it didn't work well. Paint was peeling off after touching.. btw Minwax is costing RM 350+ for A litre! Gonna go budget as Im just starting and making lures for fun. 😅
Thanks in advance,
Douglas.
As far as the durability of uv resin, it sets harder than most resins and does not yellow. The truth is nothing will stand up to the teeth of an angry barracuda or the jaw power of a snake head. Put on as many coats as you have the patience for (3 minimum) and go for it.
@@EngineeredAngler Alright there.. Will definitely purchase mine asap to finish my lure.. bout how bout paint as mentioned 🤔
You'll have to experiment with the paint to be sure it interacts well with the clear coat.
@@EngineeredAngler Alright Franc, Thanks for the guidance and advice!
Great video. If I wanted to use a two-part epoxy as the clear coat would there be issues with it bonding to the polycrylic?
Not at all...works perfectly
Just ran across this video. Have used the polyacrylic on just wooden lures or have you used it on plastic blanks as well. Just curious.
I have used it on wood and resin lures but since I use it to seal over the paint, the material of the lure really doesn't matter.
@@EngineeredAngler thanks for the reply. I’m gonna give it a try.
Thankks for the tutorial! Just bought my first can of polycrylic based on your other videos. Looking on the back of the can though I was hesitant to put it through my airbrush and make it airborne with the caution labels about inhalation hazards. What precautions do you take to ensure you aren't breathing it in when spraying?
I have my vent hood running on full and ware a mask.
I have cheapo, crap airbush in addition to my good one. I have dedicated that to putting on the undercoat and don't worry about babying it.
So it'll be like a clear gloss finish. Would it work on spoons?
That Polycrylic is £25 for half a pint crazy pricing would not pay that would rather just put the UV resin just straight on top, you could not even dip them as the tin is to small.
If you're getting good results without it....don't use it. I just find that my clearcoat is almost sure to be perfect when I use it. I spray it on and and a pint lasts a long time.
Hi there Franco, Guy here from the uk ,I'm intrested in the polycyclic, the minwax is incredibly expensive,,about 25£ for a half quart,,I bought it anyway ,diluted with15% water ,done every thing you advised,,,really happy with the result,,,one issue though ,I've sourced a cheaper supplier overseas not the USA,,but I then realised there are different types of minwax polycyclic,,,I've got one that says crystal clear topcoat and on examining your vid yours said protective coating ,,,,what's the diffeŕance?? Can you maybe clarify for me ? Thanks again, great vids,guy fishing for sea bass in cornwall uk
If its the water based polycrylic I do not believe there is a difference, I think my can is so old it has old labeling.
Quick question, does this work over chrome paint without dulling it if you've tried it?
I have done a bunch of videos and tests on chrome paint where I try every clear coat I can think of and everything dulls the chrome paint.
@@EngineeredAngler Sad to hear it but figured you'd be the one person who might know. Thanks for the insight!
Hi, have you tried KBS diamond finish instead of UV resin for the final touch? I found my 3D printed lure is unable to be coated with UV resin as I made a detachable weight chamber on it and the snap part will be over cured.
Yes I have, it works well but is very sensitive to moisture in the air so its impossible to store here in Florida.
@@EngineeredAngler im thinking to use the polycrylic as a midcoat and hopefully it will protect my chome-like paint from polyurethane(with may contain thinner/solvant).
Would polyacrilic used as midcoat over foiled baits, provide better bond to 2 part epoxies finishes that follow? Adhering to foiled surfaces have always been a challenge
I use it over foil and it works well for me...
How many square feet in your painting area not including your wood shop
My little lure shop is about 90 square ft.
Is Pledge Floor gloss a substitute for Polycrylic? If not, when would you use one vs the other?
No. I only use pledge to conserve the chrome look on spray chrome that will dull with normal clearcoat. I'll cover the answer more completely in an upcoming video. Thanks.
@@EngineeredAngler great. Thank you.
I have a bottle of Pledge but I saw this Quick Shine Pure Floor Wax yesterday and will be testing it soon. Wondered if you had tried this one yet as a Pledge replacement?
Hi Franko, I enjoy your channel. I'm not nearly as meticulous or scientific as you and I kinda suck at painting, but I am pretty good at designing lures that perform well in terms of action. My biggest issue continues to be keeping my diving lips clean and free from blemishes - scratches, glue crud and so on. No matter how careful I am with painters tape they nearly always end up blemishes and lexan, tough as it is, scratches really easily. I'm trying to come up with a process where adding the lip is the last or nearly the last step. do you have any advice about this? thanks
Yes, that's what I prefer to do...put the lip in after the Polycrylic dries. This way the paint is protected while you glue in the lip. Use uv resin as glue this way if you're a bit messy you can just wipe it clean before you set it with the light.
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks for the tip, Franko!
You mentioned dipping or spraying. Don't like fuss of cleaning airbrush, paint area not set up for that. Can I just brush on the polycrylic? Straight or diluted?
Yes or you can use a pump spray bottle with the thinned poly, give it a good misting and lit it drip and dry.
Whats that clear coat you brushed on?? Thought it was the poly??
Uv cure epoxy
The results speak for themselves. I am still a bit skeptical probably based off how piss poor the quality of polyacrylic was when it first came out but I might give this a try.
Remember it's just a mid coat it shouldn't be used as a final coat.
@@EngineeredAngler understood!! appreciate the video!
Hey i have a question! Ive been doing this per the instruction and my two part epoxy still seperates on the first coat. Any idea what i can do to stop that?
I assume you mean the clearcoat has fish eyes or is pull away on spots. Is the Polycrylic also separating?
@@EngineeredAngler yes that is what i mean and no the polycrylic stays put good then i put the epoxy over and it and it seperates. Any pointers would help.
Try this, take a small piece of PVC pipe lightly sand and clean it with alcohol, then apply the Polycrylic let dry and apply the clearcoat.
If you get a bad finish, your clearcoat is not compatible with the Polycrylic.
If you get a good finish try it again with a new PVC, but paint the PVC with your lure paint, before you apply the mid-coat and clearcoat. Now if you get a good finish the problem is with the wood or casting resin you are using or the material your using to seal it. If you get a bad finish the problem is with the paint.
Good luck.
Wouldn't rubbing with alcohol before the polycrylic rub the paint off?
That's right...don't need to clean fresh paint. I was cleaning an old clearcoat.
Would you happen to know if the shaker can of that Minwax Polycrylic will do the same job?
I haven't tried it but I would think it would work.
Which particular devcon 2ton epoxy is best for final coat and what is drying time without curing under uv, and which epoxy for quick bill placent ? Thanks in advance !!! What is d drying time of minwax polycrylic for sealing the lure ???
I don't use Devcon. And all those other details are in the videos.
I've seen your other videos on UV clear coating. You said you're able to spray it on... What size airbrush are you using for it? My Iwata's .3mm nozzle has a hard time spraying a balancing medium. Would you recommend a .5mm or should I be looking at a bottom feed airbrush?
I'm using an Iwata with a .3mm tip.
CAN YOU PLEASE GIVE ME YOUR PROFESSIONAL OPINION AND TELL ME IF A SILICONE SPRAY CAN FROM HOME DEPOT GOOD TO WATERPROOF AND GIVE MY OLD BEAT-UP LURES A CLEAR SHINY AND LONG-LASTING FINISH ??
No...silicone will wash off. You can try clear acrylic enamel spray paint.
No silicone spray will wash off. You can try clear acrylic enamel spray paint. Home Depot carries it.
My wife has used Polycrylic on her tumbler cups over white glitter to seal it and it turned yellow in a short amount of time. Does it have uv inhibitors? And have you had that issue on lighter colors?
No not at all. I took a lure I clear coated this way and hung it from my rearview mirror for over a year...now yellowing.
@@EngineeredAngler awesome thanks for the response.
The clear that you brushed on isn't specified on the resin page?? which one did you brush on?
The UV clear I use is on the UV store page...www.amazon.com/shop/engineeredanglerlures/list/2M05EUK1FW7NQ?ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_d
Please help me!!! Wanting a matte or satin finish on my lures. Can u help me??
You can use a matte clear spray from a can or knock off the gloss with 0000 steel wool.
Thank you Franco I am pouring lead jigs some acrylic paint & others powder coated , want to foil stamp & clear coat over them would this work on them? the jigs are 8-10oz can I foil stamp over powder c & clear coat to help protect them (epoxy) Thank you
I don't know of anything that would be a problem.
Bellissimo video. Hai parlato di 10-11 dollari al barattolo, quanto pesa? Qui in Italia chiedono 32 euro per circa 250 gr. Pazzesco.
100g
Thank you.
Where do I get a spinning chamber like that??
I made it
@@EngineeredAngler dang man that's some talent
Do you ever dip your lures
I don't like dipping, it can introduce debris to the resin and opening a container will allow light in.
I've very recently started carving some lures and need to figure out clear coating them. Does anyone have a process that doesn't involve the UV curing? Being so new to it I can't really justify/plan that at this time.
Update: reading these comments it appears the final coating is epoxy? I guess i could try to find a clear epoxy that doesnt require the UV cure for my first few lures?
Table top resins can work really well. That is what I used to use check it out on this video. ua-cam.com/video/GKVrAwFifIA/v-deo.html
What kind of UV cure do you use
you can find it on my amazon store
www.amazon.com/shop/engineeredanglerlures
Thank you bro
What was the sealer you painted on?
Minwax Polycrylic
I just bought an 8 oz. Can of the minwax polycrilic clear satin that says its water resistant but I dont know how long it's going to last, if anyone knows
Well I don't use it as a finish coat so its not really exposed to water...much.
@@EngineeredAngler but would it work to at least preserve the paint?
What clear coat do you use?
UV cure epox6
WHat is the clear coat material?
It's uv cure resin, you can find it in my Amazon store
Have you ever tried a couple of coats of Polycrylic as the top coat?
Yes but it is not very durable
@@EngineeredAngler Thanks
will this work on chrome paint?
I have a few videos testing different products over chrome paint....you'll get a better answer there.
@@EngineeredAngler I watched 1 of those videos before posting my previous comment, and the results on the spoons were okay but not as mirror finish as I would prefer.
I specifically asked about this clear coat out of curiosity, unknowing if you had also previously tested it before.