I'm glad I could help, this was my first time doing it and I think it went pretty well, almost got 100k miles on the bike with no motor work done, I must have done something right, Ride safe
Looking at the possibility of having to do this to my 98 softail custom, everyone ive ever talked to made it seem like swapping a stator was such a huge pain in the neck and you "might as well just replace the whole engine" this dosnt seem like that at all, especially after i just got through replacing the oil breather and all new pushrods. (That WAS a pain in my neck, especially without a service manual, but i got through it ok!) Great video!
It's not as difficult as people make it out to be, get a service manual and it will make it so much easier. Hope all goes well, let me know if you have any questions. I'll try to help out the best I can
When you install a new Stator, be sure when you install the wires and grommet in the hole in the Primary case, to clean the hole very good with carb cleaner (or equivalent) and use RTV silicone sealant on the grommet, before you push it into the hole. If not, it will eventually leak oil.
Hi , good Video , I,ve done this a few times over the yrs on my 1997 softail , I did,nt have to take my clutch out though , you can actually get the stator out without removing the whole clutch , people say no you can,t but you can . One thing i didn,t see you do ( i hope you did ) and that wasn,t tightening up the 2 screws that hold the stator wires inside . Ride safe .
There are 13 different types of connectors used over the years. Upgrade to a higher amp if you can. Doubled check part numbers. Many applications require the removal of the inner primary case & starter components, It can get involved. Start off with the proper troubleshooting procedure.
You have the best video I could find for doing this job. Thank you for posting it. What size socket did you have on the impact gun? Thank you for your time.
You laid it all out with easy to follow steps. Thanks for that. But one detail I missed and can't find any where, including the shop manual... How did you disassemble the stator side of the stator/voltage regulator connector (number 46 in the shop manual) to get the old wires out and the new wires in?
@@ThisOldHarley - The Stator Connector must be removed from the wires. It's called (to de-pin a connector) each wire pin has a locking tab. Electricians use a special tool, depending on what type of pin is crimped onto the end of the wires (it's shown in the back of the Service Manual). You can use a very small flat screwdriver, zip-tie, or something similar to push down the tab. With the right tool, the wire can be easily removed from the Connector. The new Stator wires are simply pushed into the back of the Connector.
Watching this video as my stator went out on my 2000 ultra peace officer edition that is identical to yours. The video helps a lot but the one question I have is what were you doing with the pliers by the clutch? It was sped up and I couldn't quite tell what was happening.
May i ask you something please?I have Electra glide FLHTCUI and i want to put the same seat as yours taking out the top box, do you know from which model of Harleys i can use this seat?Thanks for the video.
It's a Harley Davidson Badlander seat and I think it will fit '97-'07, they look good but not a good seat for riding all day, no support, Thanks for watching. Ride safe my friend.
@@ThisOldHarley thank you so much!! I'm a little nervous about doing this but not as nervous as I would be to see the bill from Harley if they did it!!
If I didn’t ride it for over 24 hours my battery would be dead, it only took a second or two with a battery charger to get it running again, I also replaced my regulator
Test the resistance of the stator (manual details how), and test the output voltage of the stator with the bike running. You can do both before disassembly.
If I remember right, you can simply use a DMM to read the voltage at your battery terminals with everything OFF. Should read around 12.5-12.7 volts. Next, start the bike, rev to ~1,500 RPMs and hold, and you should now read 14.5 volts-ish. If it reads above 15 volts, the stator is good, but the regulator needs attention.
Did anybody else catch that? Why didn't he put the wires in the harness?The wires will probably get cut real soon.Make sure you put the stator wires in the wire harness!
@@ThisOldHarleyI believe he means taking the blue plate out of the old female connector, pulling the tabs and putting the new pins in the female housing so the plug isn’t open and just sitting with exposed tabs. The connection housing is reusable where it plugs into the voltage regulator
This is the closest video that helped me fix my 96 ultra classic. Thank you so very much for uploading.
I'm glad I could help, this was my first time doing it and I think it went pretty well, almost got 100k miles on the bike with no motor work done, I must have done something right, Ride safe
Thank you Sir, this video is going to very helpful in doing my own stator. I appreciate it.
Glad it helped, Ride safe my friend!
Bro best video on this ive seen thank you so much
Glad to hear that, thank you
Man this video is exactly what I needed thanks 🤙🏻
Great to hear
I need to get in behind my stator and replace my crank seal... This made it look easy enough.
It’s not too bad, pretty easy to take apart and put back together, good luck! 👍🏻
Looking at the possibility of having to do this to my 98 softail custom, everyone ive ever talked to made it seem like swapping a stator was such a huge pain in the neck and you "might as well just replace the whole engine" this dosnt seem like that at all, especially after i just got through replacing the oil breather and all new pushrods. (That WAS a pain in my neck, especially without a service manual, but i got through it ok!) Great video!
It's not as difficult as people make it out to be, get a service manual and it will make it so much easier. Hope all goes well, let me know if you have any questions. I'll try to help out the best I can
It’s a bit scary to pull that all a part but you did a very good job covering all the points. Thank you.
Thank you
When you install a new Stator, be sure when you install the wires and grommet in the hole in the Primary case, to clean the hole very good with carb cleaner (or equivalent) and use RTV silicone sealant on the grommet, before you push it into the hole. If not, it will eventually leak oil.
Thanks for the tip, I'll check it and if needed I'll silicone it up
This is gonna help me out. My 97 ultra stator is on its way out!
It’s pretty simple, just make sure you have a manual, thanks for watching
@Josh Long
How can you tell? I’m getting awful smell from the primary side
@@71donkrider battery not charging like it should.
Hi , good Video , I,ve done this a few times over the yrs on my 1997 softail , I did,nt have to take my clutch out though , you can actually get the stator out without removing the whole clutch , people say no you can,t but you can . One thing i didn,t see you do ( i hope you did ) and that wasn,t tightening up the 2 screws that hold the stator wires inside . Ride safe .
Thanks you! I didn’t know you could but it wasn’t too bad anyways, yes I did tighten the screws. Thanks for watching! Ride safe
There are 13 different types of connectors used over the years.
Upgrade to a higher amp if you can. Doubled check part numbers.
Many applications require the removal of the inner primary case & starter components,
It can get involved.
Start off with the proper troubleshooting procedure.
Replaced the stator years ago and it's been working great, I have 97k miles on the bike now. Thanks for the tips
i like the video. would have been nice to see you show that it was charging again with a multimeter.
That would have been a great idea
Should have shown it before too.
Video helped a ton thx
I’m happy to hear that, thanks for watching
Danke
👍🏼
Dude I have the same exact back year and color too!
It's a great bike, I have about 95k miles on it right now, I'll be going back to 0000 this summer, can't wait lol
Thanks for the video bud
Must have done something right, everything works great now, thanks for watching
You should always check clearances, ie Stator to rotor and rotor to stator conector plug, Then shim out accordingly..
Thank you
@@ThisOldHarley Your welcome mate.
You have the best video I could find for doing this job. Thank you for posting it.
What size socket did you have on the impact gun? Thank you for your time.
Sorry I never got back to you, do you still need the size? if so I will look tomorrow and let you know.
It didn't really show you pull the flywheel bolt, is that left handed thread? It just seemed like it would be the way you put that wedge in
@@edmiller575 Yes it is
Did you make your bike stand?
No, It's a Harbor Freight Bike Stand, been using it for 10+ years. Works great
You laid it all out with easy to follow steps. Thanks for that. But one detail I missed and can't find any where, including the shop manual... How did you disassemble the stator side of the stator/voltage regulator connector (number 46 in the shop manual) to get the old wires out and the new wires in?
It’s was fairly simple, I can’t remember if I included It in the video but if I remember correctly it was pretty self-explanatory
@@ThisOldHarley - The Stator Connector must be removed from the wires. It's called (to de-pin a connector) each wire pin has a locking tab. Electricians use a special tool, depending on what type of pin is crimped onto the end of the wires (it's shown in the back of the Service Manual).
You can use a very small flat screwdriver, zip-tie, or something similar to push down the tab. With the right tool, the wire can be easily removed from the Connector. The new Stator wires are simply pushed into the back of the Connector.
When putting the wires back into the plug does it matter how they go back or is there a certain way to do it!???
Yeah, that part was conveniently skipped over too 😂
@@kurtfoulke5130 Again, self explanatory
What was the torque specs for the compensator and clutch?
It’s in my manual, I’ll check when I get home tonight after work
What sizes were the big nuts you used the Milwaukee for?
I’ll check my manual when I get home and let you know, unfortunately I don’t remember at this time. Great question
1 3/16" for the clutch basket an d1 1/2" on the stator side.
Watching this video as my stator went out on my 2000 ultra peace officer edition that is identical to yours. The video helps a lot but the one question I have is what were you doing with the pliers by the clutch? It was sped up and I couldn't quite tell what was happening.
19:05 mark
@@marcuslemberger5998 snap ring pliers. There is a snap ring on the clutch that has to come off
I was taking off the snap ring, good luck on your bike, it’s not too bad to do
I have a stator though where the stator plugs in is corroded.
That's not good, I would clean it out as much as possible and use dielectric grease to help connectivity. Good Luck!
Pretty good video, but you should always torque everything internal down to spec, don't use an impact.
Thank you
Using an impact can loosen the magnets on the rotor, they are only glued on.
May i ask you something please?I have Electra glide FLHTCUI and i want to put the same seat as yours taking out the top box, do you know from which model of Harleys i can use this seat?Thanks for the video.
It's a Harley Davidson Badlander seat and I think it will fit '97-'07, they look good but not a good seat for riding all day, no support, Thanks for watching. Ride safe my friend.
@@ThisOldHarley Regards and all the best.
When you put the primary back together did you have to adjust anything? I did mine and now it cuts off when i put it in first gear
Yes, I had to adjust my clutch
ua-cam.com/video/-mj-M4hOayk/v-deo.html
@@ThisOldHarley is it possible to not have to adjust the clutch? I'm getting ready to tackle this same thing on my 93 FLHTC.
@@jamminr7533 you don’t have to adjust your clutch, I just did mine for the video, any questions feel free to ask and I’ll try to comment back ASAP
@@ThisOldHarley thank you so much!! I'm a little nervous about doing this but not as nervous as I would be to see the bill from Harley if they did it!!
@@jamminr7533 I was nervous too, but once I started, everything went fairly smooth, this was my first time replacing mine also
How do you know when your stator is failing?
If I didn’t ride it for over 24 hours my battery would be dead, it only took a second or two with a battery charger to get it running again, I also replaced my regulator
Test the resistance of the stator (manual details how), and test the output voltage of the stator with the bike running. You can do both before disassembly.
If I remember right, you can simply use a DMM to read the voltage at your battery terminals with everything OFF. Should read around 12.5-12.7 volts. Next, start the bike, rev to ~1,500 RPMs and hold, and you should now read 14.5 volts-ish. If it reads above 15 volts, the stator is good, but the regulator needs attention.
I dont have a cltuch adjustment screw on on clutch cable or maybe it's located somewhere else. I'm trying to avoid taking it to harley
There should be a black rubber sleeve, the adjustment is under it, slide it up or down to get to it
You didn't put the wires in the wiring harness dude!
Of course I did, I just didn't show that part, I figured it was common sense,
What year is the bike
1998
I didn't see you reinstall the harness clamp (2 little screws) to the case.
You shouldn't need to remove the clutch basket.
I did reinstall the harness clamp. if I didn't do it on camera, I must have done it after, it's all good
Did anybody else catch that? Why didn't he put the wires in the harness?The wires will probably get cut real soon.Make sure you put the stator wires in the wire harness!
Not sure what you mean, I encourage criticism since I just work on my own bikes.
@@ThisOldHarleyI believe he means taking the blue plate out of the old female connector, pulling the tabs and putting the new pins in the female housing so the plug isn’t open and just sitting with exposed tabs. The connection housing is reusable where it plugs into the voltage regulator
@@kylerooney899 I did reuse the housing, I just didn't show it in the video, I figured it was common sense, Thanks for watching.
I did reuse the old harness. Thanks for the comment.
How many pounds of Torque?
Hubby said best video he has viewed.
Consult your owner's manual for torque specs. All bikes are different. Glad he enjoyed the video.
For Electra glide (flhtcui). 70lbft sprocket nut(righty tighty). And the 70-80 clutch main shaft nut (lefty tighty).
Primary cover is 108-120 inch lbs or 8-10 ft lbs look up torque sequence
@@corydolan5368 Thank you.
About a 3 hour job?
Yes, you could get it done in about 3 hours
😂... 3+3= about an 8 hour job. If you've done it before.
@@ardyrides834 🤣 Why would it take 8 hours? What are you doing the other 5 hours? 🤔You must work for a Harley Dealership
needless annoying audio loop
Not sure what you mean?
I liked the music
Thanks for the comment. Sorry you didn't like the background music, I'm still working on my editing.
I did not like the music. It was annoying. Otherwise, the video was very good.