I've done this to a couple of new guitars with Pau Ferro and Indian Laurel boards. I have generally had the best success using the following method. First I clean the board with Naptha to remove anything that may have been applied at the factory. It does a great job of dissolving any crud or conditioners. The good thing about Naptha is that it evaporates quickly. As it evaporates, it tends to pull some moisture out of the board making it a little dry. This in turn, allows the fret board to absorb more dye or stain. After I stain the board, I wait until the next day to apply any sort of conditioner. Applying conditioner right after you stain tends to remove some of the stain...even if the fretboard appears dry. The wood can only absorb so much moisture before it becomes saturated. If you continue adding stain or conditioner to it past that point, you really aren't accomplishing anything. You want the stain and the subsequent conditioner to be absorbed by the wood...not sit on top of it. That is why sometimes you will see fretboards with a cloudy...waxy looking residue. Just my humble opinions and what has worked for me.
The best way to do this is oxidisation. Laurel or Pao ferro. Mix 50/50 Pure tung oil and Pure gum turpentine. Apply , let sit 30 min and wipe. Do again in several hours and then the next day. You are done. It will darken over natural time. About three or so months
I used simple wood stain I got at wal-mart on the fret board of an Epiphone korina V that has a laurel board, I wanted it to more closely match the rosewood board of my Epiphone korina Explorer so I would have a matching set. I did two coats with q-tips and it turned out quite well. Oh, and also I use Dunlop 65 lemon oil to nourish the boards on all my non maple guitars.
It looks very good to me. I wish I had found and seen this video before I stained the laurel fretboard I have. Though I don't dislike the result I got with Higgins India ink from Stewmac, I like your result better. The laurel fingerboard I stained was about the same lightness as your test piece.
Looks awesome! I just did my Epi 335 with Fiebings Dark Brown Leather Dye and man, it came out amazing. Glad to see other methods work as well. Nobody likes a light fretboard!
@@DavidImrie It seemed to seep in rather than sit on top. Bodes well for future playwear. After a nice conditioning it came out well. Luckily the laurel board on mine wasn’t the streaky kind so it all dyed evenly
It may not pass for ebony, but it’s probably the best mock Brazilian rosewood I’ve seen. And I was surprised how much better the inlays look. I’ll be trying this soon. Great job!
I preferred the more reddish colour of the Danish Oil with Rosewood Stain, the second one you tried on the test piece. Either way the one you chose Did make a marked improvement. I have an 'affordable' Gretsch witha Laurel board and I quite disliek it's yellowish hues. A treatment that wil redden it is what I will probably go for.
It looks great- your choice was what I thought to be the best. So, I got to see how my preference turned out. I confess the initial application was a bit scary, but you dialed it in nicely. Very useful information.
The fretboard on my Epi Firebird is laurel as well, and it's not too bad - but I agree, a nicely darkened board simply looks better... 😀👍 I've done this before with leather dye, since that really permeates the wood. Done it in 2 stages, first one quite thickly applied, then wiped down. The second layer somewhat thinned down, and that evened it out really well.... Every time I took all excess off, and let it dry. After the last I buffed it all out with a piece of cloth, because you definitely don't want to end up with dyed fingertips 🤣 That rosewood danish oil looked absolutely stunning, I'd say...
I darkened the pau ferro fretboard of my Player Strat with dark gun stock oil, i used that oil instead of usual lemon oil at each string change. Now the fretboard is much darker then before, not black but very dark brown. Looks not like Pau Ferro anymore.
I think it turned out well. I just got an acoustic Epiphone but I like the light and dark streaks that are on my Laurel fretboard. I’ll change the strings soon and use more lem oil then I normally would and let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes so it brings out the streaking that I like and maybe darkens it up a little bit. Thanks for putting this video out.
Great video David and to be honest the best I’ve seen on the subject. I have a Rory Gallagher custom shop Strat and the rosewood fretboard is quite light. It’s started to darken through playing but still quite light compared to the original 61 Strat of Rory’s. I’m thinking of using danish oil with a dye, the last one you used looks absolutely perfect. I’ve looked at the leather dye but I honestly think a proper oil, like the danish would be superior. The one you used is also known as Jacobean dark oak.
Turned out a nice job well done mate! I’ve got the epi 59 I use the oils to darken the Laurel but this drys out and short lived but lovely colour on yours , love it !
Likewise. Love mine, but the fretboard is my one complaint. Not playability, but the color only. I have treated my fretboard on every string change with the Music Nomad F-One oil, and it's made it much darker!
Very useful, thanks! I've saved this for future reference. A few times I've bought guitars having researched them on line as much as I can, only to find that the review guitars seen on all the puff videos with nice dark rosewood boards are not representative of the ones that then turn up in quantity in the online shops which invariably come with 'streaky bacon' boards - a look that I really hate. Cort are guilty of this, c.f. the new PRS SE Dave Grissom model. I have had to send guitars back when they've arrived looking nothing like the review and online photos. Almost all retailers use the manufacturer-supplied photos which always show dark, uniform rosewood boards. I try and buy from retailers that show actual photos, e.g. Guitar Village, Peach. Others will sometimes oblige with requests to send photos. Larger box-shifters refuse to do that, e.g. Gear4Music, Andertons DV247, etc.
This guitar only get's light use but it still looks great. I'd say it may have got slightly lighter over time but still looks good/better and has not gone patchy or anything bad like that.
I think it looks great..I'm having trouble getting my fretboard to accept any stain...I've cleaned 3 times now...even sanded it a bit this last time in case there might be any sealer from the cheap guitar factory...cleaned it thoroughly with acetone as well..which dries it up nicely as well....still wont accept stain...it's a laurel neck from what I can tell....fret board woods can be hard to identify...unless it's rose, ebony or maple. Do you have any advice? I'm about to give up.
I'm trying to do same on the laurel fingerboard for my Gretsch. What is the product specifically? I can only find Fiddes Naphta Oils and the tints that seem like they'd be most like what you're using are either Dark Oak or New Brown Mahogany, although the latter looks like it could he quite red. Really not sure which one to go with as it's my first time with this sort of thing.
Thanks for the demo and comparisons! I’m building an ES-335 kit and the rosewood fretboard is fairly light, so would love to darken it especially since I finished the guitar in cherry red. I clean fretboards with naphtha anyway, so this oil combination with it seems like a good bet.
Thanks. I don't use the guitar that often but so far id say it has lightened over time ever so slightly, but no nasty wear patterns or anything like that, so would recommend.
Nice job! I have an Epiphone Lucille with a laurel board and it never sat well with me. Going to give this a go and hope I don't dye the inlays too much!
Not that much difference - maybe should have used the ebony and rubbed it back a bit instead. i've used Keda wood dyes to tint fretboards on a number of guitar builds.
All the videos that I've seen others make look great but how much of that dye is coming off on your hands/fingers when you play it now? That's the question David,I'm afraid of that happening.
What's what I'd be afraid off too and I think it would be the case with a heavy dose of wood stain, but honestly I've been giging with it for a few months and it's been fine. It lightened up (evenly) a little as It dried but it's been fine. Granted I'm not the heaviest of players but no issues so far
@yetigoosecreature8682 You need actual boiled linseed which is what was always used, it will cure but it has to be actually boiled (some are labeled boiled but are chemically altered).
honestly, you'd be better to pick a wood stain that can counteract the red. there are a variety of shades, and using some will blast out the red, others will add red. they have that so you can counteract your base wood color which can range from white to yellow to pink to brown. so a very dull/dead looking stain could knock out the red and the combo would be a very nice color. for instance, jacobean was a little more dead like this. versus say american colonial or the color provincial. (these are minwax color names). but basically jacobean has almost an olive, desaturated tone to it. (it's subtle.) and that green helps tone down the red. you can get small pots from home depot or places like that. and, if you wanna get really fancy, you can buy untinted stain, and add just a little bit of whatever you're planning to use to it. to make a diluted version. i think this could be a good approach to an ebony board. then do multiple layers of it. pretty sure it would come out more natural then. layers always look better than a one-an-done, in staining, in painting, and in art-related painting. keep in mind, you'll never truly hide wood grain unless using something opaque, which regular stain is not. the diff grains of the wood don't all take in stain the same, so it can cause the differences. plus, if the base color is striped, your starting color isn't uniform. and since colors LAYER upon each other.... the dark starting color/stripes will always be darker in the end. BUT not all ebony is pure black anyway. some of it is lighter and many examples have some amount of striping. (if you want DARK, the color espresso is very dark. really open up the pores to the wood and try it out so it can take in stain, and do at least 2 passes. some people use lighter fluid as that prep work. and it dries fast. anyway, do your research to see what method works for you but these water based stains i mentioned are good. and they will come out dry so you'll need to oil up your board. never heard of using furniture wax on it. but it's not permanent so there shouldn't be any probs. it's a conditioner. and mostly only fades off in sunlight/outdoor conditions.)
I haven't filmed it since but it's held up well. I do have a very light touch when playing though and it hasn't seen heavy use. If I think on I'll try and include it in another vid.
@@DavidImrie ‘cause I’ve always known that stained or painted woods cannot be treated with lemon oil or similar products. Since laurel can be a little dry it may be an issue later on
That I can't say for sure. I'd say it gets a little lighter as it dries. There is the possibility if you wear the fretboard heavily you could get a light spot but I've not experienced this. The guitar still looks good to me. At the end of the day I'd just do it again if it needed it.
I've an Ovangkol fretboard dyed with Ebony stain. I wore through the stain in 2 weeks of playing. Now, I have freaky, unnatural tiger-striped fretboard...lol
Heres my magic for darkeni g,and keeping it conditioned.First clean board.(acetone).clean board dry off.Next apply POLYMERIZED LINSEED AND BEESWAX.LET SIT AN HOUR WIPE OFF.WAIT A DAY I TAKE ULTRA FINE PAPER TO THE BOARD.THEN APPLY SECOND COAT.WAIT AN HOUR REMOVE .WAIT A DAY LAST TIME REPEAT.THEN WAIT A DAYBEFORE STRINGING.I GARUNTEE YOU WILL LIKE THE RESULT.DYES?INKS?NOPE.
Is the lineseed oil and beeswax combined in a container or how does that work?..and when you wipe it off and let it dry for an hr and apply again.apply what again?..acetone or linseed oil/ beeswax?
Last week in in the Wood i v seen an Offical woodworker my oh my he was busy he does that with all trees indian Laurel trees when he was Ready and back to his car a gold Metallic peterbuildt Truck and again he does the darkening - the Truck looks like choclate to the bone very funny but very crazy meanwhile Richards starts to yoodel ya can``t always get what ya want playing a Stradievarie Banjo with aged plastik parts and a bunch of Lakotas which are the Owners of the Wood start to sing the Wind song. And than the kluklux clan arrived Now they are all hanging on Poplar Trees and their mead is darkening in the Sun😋and smelling like a Case from epihhone napalm in the morning
![How to make rosewood fretboard DARK [Like Brazilian]](/img/n.gif)
I've done this to a couple of new guitars with Pau Ferro and Indian Laurel boards. I have generally had the best success using the following method. First I clean the board with Naptha to remove anything that may have been applied at the factory. It does a great job of dissolving any crud or conditioners. The good thing about Naptha is that it evaporates quickly. As it evaporates, it tends to pull some moisture out of the board making it a little dry. This in turn, allows the fret board to absorb more dye or stain. After I stain the board, I wait until the next day to apply any sort of conditioner. Applying conditioner right after you stain tends to remove some of the stain...even if the fretboard appears dry. The wood can only absorb so much moisture before it becomes saturated. If you continue adding stain or conditioner to it past that point, you really aren't accomplishing anything. You want the stain and the subsequent conditioner to be absorbed by the wood...not sit on top of it. That is why sometimes you will see fretboards with a cloudy...waxy looking residue. Just my humble opinions and what has worked for me.
Clean with Napta and a toothbrush !
That sounds really good. Personally I would just leave the color alone. I actually like it more than the expensive rosewood
Which stains did you use ?
The best way to do this is oxidisation. Laurel or Pao ferro. Mix 50/50 Pure tung oil and Pure gum turpentine. Apply , let sit 30 min and wipe. Do again in several hours and then the next day. You are done. It will darken over natural time. About three or so months
I used simple wood stain I got at wal-mart on the fret board of an Epiphone korina V that has a laurel board, I wanted it to more closely match the rosewood board of my Epiphone korina Explorer so I would have a matching set. I did two coats with q-tips and it turned out quite well. Oh, and also I use Dunlop 65 lemon oil to nourish the boards on all my non maple guitars.
Did the dye have any toxic ingredients in it? Just curious bc I want to dye some board
I have a guitar coming into my shop that I need to ebonize the rosewood. I like your results, I will definitely try this procedure. Thanks!!!
It looks very good to me. I wish I had found and seen this video before I stained the laurel fretboard I have. Though I don't dislike the result I got with Higgins India ink from Stewmac, I like your result better. The laurel fingerboard I stained was about the same lightness as your test piece.
Looks awesome! I just did my Epi 335 with Fiebings Dark Brown Leather Dye and man, it came out amazing. Glad to see other methods work as well. Nobody likes a light fretboard!
You know what it is.. I had some black angelus leather dye to hand and never thought to include it. No brown though
@@DavidImrie It seemed to seep in rather than sit on top. Bodes well for future playwear. After a nice conditioning it came out well. Luckily the laurel board on mine wasn’t the streaky kind so it all dyed evenly
What did you do to keep the inlays clean and bright...?
@@GlennMarshallRocks Cut out perfect little circles out of painters tape
It may not pass for ebony, but it’s probably the best mock Brazilian rosewood I’ve seen.
And I was surprised how much better the inlays look. I’ll be trying this soon.
Great job!
Nice one David. Thanks very much for these systematic experiments. I'll be doing something similar to my mandolin soon. 🪔
I preferred the more reddish colour of the Danish Oil with Rosewood Stain, the second one you tried on the test piece.
Either way the one you chose Did make a marked improvement.
I have an 'affordable' Gretsch witha Laurel board and I quite disliek it's yellowish hues.
A treatment that wil redden it is what I will probably go for.
It looks great- your choice was what I thought to be the best. So, I got to see how my preference turned out. I confess the initial application was a bit scary, but you dialed it in nicely. Very useful information.
Thanks :)
I think the first two ARE a very safe thing to go with. I do like that last but would have to find the same exact can
The fretboard on my Epi Firebird is laurel as well, and it's not too bad - but I agree, a nicely darkened board simply looks better... 😀👍
I've done this before with leather dye, since that really permeates the wood.
Done it in 2 stages, first one quite thickly applied, then wiped down. The second layer somewhat thinned down, and that evened it out really well....
Every time I took all excess off, and let it dry. After the last I buffed it all out with a piece of cloth, because you definitely don't want to end up with dyed fingertips 🤣
That rosewood danish oil looked absolutely stunning, I'd say...
I darkened the pau ferro fretboard of my Player Strat with dark gun stock oil, i used that oil instead of usual lemon oil at each string change. Now the fretboard is much darker then before, not black but very dark brown. Looks not like Pau Ferro anymore.
From which brand?
I think it turned out well. I just got an acoustic Epiphone but I like the light and dark streaks that are on my Laurel fretboard. I’ll change the strings soon and use more lem oil then I normally would and let it sit for 15 or 20 minutes so it brings out the streaking that I like and maybe darkens it up a little bit. Thanks for putting this video out.
Looks really good. I may try that with my epi J45 slash
Looks killer- great video!
Great video David and to be honest the best I’ve seen on the subject. I have a Rory Gallagher custom shop Strat and the rosewood fretboard is quite light. It’s started to darken through playing but still quite light compared to the original 61 Strat of Rory’s. I’m thinking of using danish oil with a dye, the last one you used looks absolutely perfect. I’ve looked at the leather dye but I honestly think a proper oil, like the danish would be superior. The one you used is also known as Jacobean dark oak.
Fiebings Leather dye is a good choice many luthiers use to do this.
Yeah I've been using angelus on bodies
Looks good, much darker. Spat my tea out when that black went on the fretboard though 😆
Slap it on... Lol
Turned out a nice job well done mate! I’ve got the epi 59 I use the oils to darken the Laurel but this drys out and short lived but lovely colour on yours , love it !
Likewise. Love mine, but the fretboard is my one complaint. Not playability, but the color only. I have treated my fretboard on every string change with the Music Nomad F-One oil, and it's made it much darker!
Very useful, thanks! I've saved this for future reference. A few times I've bought guitars having researched them on line as much as I can, only to find that the review guitars seen on all the puff videos with nice dark rosewood boards are not representative of the ones that then turn up in quantity in the online shops which invariably come with 'streaky bacon' boards - a look that I really hate. Cort are guilty of this, c.f. the new PRS SE Dave Grissom model. I have had to send guitars back when they've arrived looking nothing like the review and online photos. Almost all retailers use the manufacturer-supplied photos which always show dark, uniform rosewood boards. I try and buy from retailers that show actual photos, e.g. Guitar Village, Peach. Others will sometimes oblige with requests to send photos. Larger box-shifters refuse to do that, e.g. Gear4Music, Andertons DV247, etc.
Came out great. Might try it on my LP Special.
Thanks for the video.
That was a great result, so how does this guitar look today one year later? is it keeping the dark tint? I will def try this on my guitars.
This guitar only get's light use but it still looks great. I'd say it may have got slightly lighter over time but still looks good/better and has not gone patchy or anything bad like that.
Stained my binding pretty good with this. What’s the best way to get the black dye off my binding?
I'm going to try Montys relicing wax on my Epiphone JB Lazarus Les Paul the board is very light.
Let us know how it goes 😊
I think it looks great..I'm having trouble getting my fretboard to accept any stain...I've cleaned 3 times now...even sanded it a bit this last time in case there might be any sealer from the cheap guitar factory...cleaned it thoroughly with acetone as well..which dries it up nicely as well....still wont accept stain...it's a laurel neck from what I can tell....fret board woods can be hard to identify...unless it's rose, ebony or maple.
Do you have any advice? I'm about to give up.
Excellent video. Very thorough. Thanks for sharing your process!
Question for you, do you have any recommendation other than the Fiddes Dark Oak Naptha? I can't find that for sale on the internet.
Permanent Black Magic marker. I used on a Harley Benton, It’s been around a year now and still looks good.
Wow. That's surprising. You'd think it'd look blotchy
I'm trying to do same on the laurel fingerboard for my Gretsch. What is the product specifically? I can only find Fiddes Naphta Oils and the tints that seem like they'd be most like what you're using are either Dark Oak or New Brown Mahogany, although the latter looks like it could he quite red. Really not sure which one to go with as it's my first time with this sort of thing.
Thanks for the demo and comparisons! I’m building an ES-335 kit and the rosewood fretboard is fairly light, so would love to darken it especially since I finished the guitar in cherry red. I clean fretboards with naphtha anyway, so this oil combination with it seems like a good bet.
Thanks. I don't use the guitar that often but so far id say it has lightened over time ever so slightly, but no nasty wear patterns or anything like that, so would recommend.
Hreat job! Hope there will be a follow up of how that bees wax lasted? 👍
Nice job! I have an Epiphone Lucille with a laurel board and it never sat well with me. Going to give this a go and hope I don't dye the inlays too much!
Best of luck. Let me know how it goes.
You could buy a set of stick-on inlays, Thomann offers and cover yours before dying!? 🎸🤘🎸
Not that much difference - maybe should have used the ebony and rubbed it back a bit instead. i've used Keda wood dyes to tint fretboards on a number of guitar builds.
All the videos that I've seen others make look great but how much of that dye is coming off on your hands/fingers when you play it now? That's the question David,I'm afraid of that happening.
What's what I'd be afraid off too and I think it would be the case with a heavy dose of wood stain, but honestly I've been giging with it for a few months and it's been fine. It lightened up (evenly) a little as It dried but it's been fine. Granted I'm not the heaviest of players but no issues so far
Well done sir. Looks nice. Job well done. Thanks for sharing.
I was so sure the inlay was going to turn out black, great video!
Haha. Yes it was a little bit dangerous but the glossy plastics seem to be ok with that kind of thing.
My jackson has d same its real light almost Washington out looking
Looks pretty good! I would have used oil instead of wax ,personal preference. Interesting experiment!
Feed n wax has orange oil in it
@yetigoosecreature8682 I love the feel of a bit oil on the fretboard, it makes a kind of silky feeling.
@yetigoosecreature8682 You need actual boiled linseed which is what was always used, it will cure but it has to be actually boiled (some are labeled boiled but are chemically altered).
Hello David,
It's now July 2023. How is that finish holding up?
It only sees light use but fine. :)
When doing this do you have strip off the previous wax from a laurel fretboard?
It depends. If it's a thick layer of true wax then yes otherwise it will not let the dye dink in.
Good result
Need to do this on my Jackson Soloist SLX with a laurel fingerboard. So this won't stain the binding?
Hello,
What is the name of the wax please ?
Great job and well done video 👍🏼
Thanks
So how did it hold up over the past 2 years? Is it rubbing off, revealing unstained wood underneath?
Still fine though it only gets very light occasional use
@@DavidImrie Ah, nice to know. I take it you didn't get discoloured finger tips then?
Nah not at all.
@@DavidImrie So I shall try it then :) Thanks :)
I wonder if a black shoe polish could knock the red out and produce a real ebony look...
honestly, you'd be better to pick a wood stain that can counteract the red. there are a variety of shades, and using some will blast out the red, others will add red. they have that so you can counteract your base wood color which can range from white to yellow to pink to brown. so a very dull/dead looking stain could knock out the red and the combo would be a very nice color. for instance, jacobean was a little more dead like this. versus say american colonial or the color provincial. (these are minwax color names). but basically jacobean has almost an olive, desaturated tone to it. (it's subtle.) and that green helps tone down the red.
you can get small pots from home depot or places like that. and, if you wanna get really fancy, you can buy untinted stain, and add just a little bit of whatever you're planning to use to it. to make a diluted version.
i think this could be a good approach to an ebony board. then do multiple layers of it. pretty sure it would come out more natural then. layers always look better than a one-an-done, in staining, in painting, and in art-related painting.
keep in mind, you'll never truly hide wood grain unless using something opaque, which regular stain is not. the diff grains of the wood don't all take in stain the same, so it can cause the differences. plus, if the base color is striped, your starting color isn't uniform. and since colors LAYER upon each other.... the dark starting color/stripes will always be darker in the end. BUT not all ebony is pure black anyway. some of it is lighter and many examples have some amount of striping.
(if you want DARK, the color espresso is very dark. really open up the pores to the wood and try it out so it can take in stain, and do at least 2 passes. some people use lighter fluid as that prep work. and it dries fast. anyway, do your research to see what method works for you but these water based stains i mentioned are good. and they will come out dry so you'll need to oil up your board. never heard of using furniture wax on it. but it's not permanent so there shouldn't be any probs. it's a conditioner. and mostly only fades off in sunlight/outdoor conditions.)
Did you ever do a follow up to this, I was curious how its worn/held up?
I haven't filmed it since but it's held up well. I do have a very light touch when playing though and it hasn't seen heavy use. If I think on I'll try and include it in another vid.
Looks awesome
Why does it make it sound or better to play I don't get it
Looks great!
Question: after you stain your fretboard can you still polish with lemon oil in the years?
I haven't oiled it yet since to be honest
@@DavidImrie ‘cause I’ve always known that stained or painted woods cannot be treated with lemon oil or similar products. Since laurel can be a little dry it may be an issue later on
I'd bet knowing that most like darker fretboard,they use something to darkin laurel wood B4 they sell most guitars
Was that wood dye oil or water based ?
The one I used in the end was naptha based. As for the others, fair point, water based I think.
What brand wax did you use?
Howard feed-n-wax
Nice video. thank you
perfect, I have can of danish oil
Great job but can’t get my hands on the stuff you’re using.
Where are you based?
@@DavidImrie America
fiddes-usa.com/shop/wood-finishes/wood-dyes/naphtha-oil-stains/
did it affect the tone
😅
LOL
How long does the darkness stay on the rosewood fretboard? Is it gonna stay forever for only one time?
That I can't say for sure. I'd say it gets a little lighter as it dries. There is the possibility if you wear the fretboard heavily you could get a light spot but I've not experienced this. The guitar still looks good to me. At the end of the day I'd just do it again if it needed it.
I like it
Looks Brazilian now.
I've an Ovangkol fretboard dyed with Ebony stain. I wore through the stain in 2 weeks of playing. Now, I have freaky, unnatural tiger-striped fretboard...lol
Lol. Oh dear. That is the danger.
at least it is unique!
I saw a video using Indian Ink. You’d swear it was ebony.
Looks great
Can i do this to the neck as well and the head?
It wouldn't work on anywhere that has paint. Only bare wood
@@DavidImrie oh okay, i just bought a cheap fender player series Stratocaster, are most fretboards bare wood ?
Usually with fenders if it is a maple fretboard it will have some kind of lacquer on it but if it's a rosewood type it won't have anything on it.
@@DavidImrie oh ok thank you!
@@DavidImrie yes i just looked it up and mine is maple 😬
Heres my magic for darkeni g,and keeping it conditioned.First clean board.(acetone).clean board dry off.Next apply POLYMERIZED LINSEED AND BEESWAX.LET SIT AN HOUR WIPE OFF.WAIT A DAY I TAKE ULTRA FINE PAPER TO THE BOARD.THEN APPLY SECOND COAT.WAIT AN HOUR REMOVE .WAIT A DAY LAST TIME REPEAT.THEN WAIT A DAYBEFORE STRINGING.I GARUNTEE YOU WILL LIKE THE RESULT.DYES?INKS?NOPE.
Is the lineseed oil and beeswax combined in a container or how does that work?..and when you wipe it off and let it dry for an hr and apply again.apply what again?..acetone or linseed oil/ beeswax?
Last week in in the Wood i v seen an Offical woodworker my oh my he was busy he does that with all trees indian Laurel trees when he was Ready and back to his car a gold Metallic peterbuildt Truck and again he does the darkening - the Truck looks like choclate to the bone very funny but very crazy meanwhile Richards starts to yoodel ya can``t always get what ya want playing a Stradievarie Banjo with aged plastik parts and a bunch of Lakotas which are the Owners of the Wood start to sing the Wind song. And than the kluklux clan arrived Now they are all hanging on Poplar Trees and their mead is darkening in the Sun😋and smelling like a Case from epihhone napalm in the morning
So your comparing colors on a piece of wood that's much lighter than the fingerboard your putting it on?...that doesn't make sense
Nice 👍
make new pickup rings with matching laurel.
to me it looks alot better..darker and still see the grain
Leather paint solve this problem ! Best !
Angelus leather dye :)
What sort of dill would ask if the stain would affect the tone , was that real 😂 .
Shhh Billy Corgan will be after you 🤣🤣
This looks like my so called “Ebony fretboard” on my Alpine white Epiphone Les Paul Custom. Epiphone is just false advertising now
So, in conclusion, you've managed to waste a considerable amount of time.
How so? It still looks good 😊
Can’t you just tell us in one minute!
Long format baby 😎🤣🤣🤣
Dirty motor oil
Looks awful................. the dyes don't work.