For anyone doing body work on these cars, don’t ever forget to use Black “guide coat” it shows all the high an low spots! Same as with primer after guide coat and block it. I spray the guide coat before even blocking so you can see what you are doing while you block.
I personally think a “guide coat” is overrated. Eye ball and the hand test is good enough. When spray a guide coat a lot of factors come in play. Finger trigger, spraying speed, type of spray can all come in effect when spraying a guide coat and is too inconsistent to use it as a guide.
@@30minforasn personally is use a dry guide coat, its a black powder thats applied with some sort of a sponge. It deffenittely helps with finding scratches from the previous sanding paper and instead of using a masking tape for sharp edges i use this powder to highlight where the edge is. To see if the object is totaly flat without any bumps etc i spray a solvent based cleaner so the object gets shiny and all the unefen parts gets highlighted. Nice to see how every one developes their own way of doing paint jobs.
Hi Brian, really nice “real world” repairs (just the sort I might attempt in my own garage) thank you so much for expert guidance and I just know from previous examples this car will come out great! Live long and prosper buddy 🖖
Currently working at a body shop but for boats kinda the same thing but not really I’ve been wanting to work at an auto body for repairs and paint but maybe pay isn’t all that
It’s poor practice to fill over paint in my Canadian climate. The metal and paint expand and contract at different rates during the cold season, and this can result in the repair showing it’s face 👍🏻
I love your videos and have learned a lot from your content. But I have yet to see a video that someone working out of their garage can do. I'd like to see you use products you can buy from a local shop, in a setting like a garage, on a gun that's not $300+ . I'd like to see you cover the basics; like taping door jams, covering tires, "do & don'ts".
Great video as always. It looks like you are putting bondo right on bare metal. Some people claim that you really should epoxy prime first. What are your thoughts? Thank you.
Depends on the filler. You should use the filler suitable for adhesion to bare metal because not all do, and not all are effective at it. At my shop we never use any surfactant for adhesion between metal bond filler and the metal, it's not necessary. What we do do, is ensure there's plenty of adhesive texture, so we filler to the body at 180 grit and don't bond to primer or paint if you want long term adhesion :) but if you have a filler that recommends a surfactant or epoxy primer first then definitely FOLLOW that procedure! There are sooooooo many brands out there, it's insane. And they all ask for differing methods of application. And if u find one that works for you and gets u good results, then absolutely stick with it.
Hey Brian, i have a dumb question. You mentioned to wait a couple days between priming and painting to allow the primer time to shrink. I understand that part, but should you wait a couple days after priming, and then block sand, after all the shrinking has taken place?; or does it make any difference if i sand it the next day?
Brian- this is a fantastic channel, and is giving me the courage to attempt a refresh on my K1500. Quick question- how many hours/man hours did you have in this Si, start to finish? Looks great! That is a great color!
When you’re talking about making sure to clean with solvent based cleaners can you be specific as to what you’re using ? Is it acetone or lacquer thinner or some type of mineral spirits
Wax and grease remover is most likely what he uses that's what we use at work. Just want to wipe it on wet and wipe it off with a dry cloth to remove contamination not just spreading it
Hi I’m looking to buy my first air compressor and 6” orbital sander 50$ from harbor freight the composite one. How many gallons/hp do you recommend for this cheap sander/air tools maybe basic air ratchet set up? I’m looking for the cheapest possible set up as I’m a weekend diy/UA-cam mechanic. I also own a 2008 Honda civic Si in Fuji blue pearl going to try this myself. Great videos watched all 3 and more thanks for your time.
I’ve been a painter a few years now I was always told prime out to in is there a difference in to out ? Taking my first coat to furthest point working way in on 2nd and 3rd coat.
Nice work Brian. What is your take on not applying body filler to bare metal. I noticed you did but some classic car restoration guys say its not good to apply filler over bare metal because it can introduce moisture. Thanks
so I've been really thinking of painting my car myself. I need to know if what I'm thinking will truly work. I want to have my car be white but have a dark blue, gold and maybe purple shine to it. I'm thinking a satin clear coat or each color wold get the affect I'm looking for with a matte clear coat. basically trying to do a midnight purple effect. any help with trying to get the paint I'm trying would be amazing
That's a very informative sir Brian...can I ask question...if I can. You using primer is 2k primer...and a itchy primer is same as Bondo sir ... hopefully you can answer.. thank you
I dont understand, im looking at a spot you say was sanded with 180. but there's metal showing the middle of the spot? How is the metal not a low spot...............................
For anyone doing body work on these cars, don’t ever forget to use Black “guide coat” it shows all the high an low spots! Same as with primer after guide coat and block it. I spray the guide coat before even blocking so you can see what you are doing while you block.
I personally think a “guide coat” is overrated. Eye ball and the hand test is good enough. When spray a guide coat a lot of factors come in play. Finger trigger, spraying speed, type of spray can all come in effect when spraying a guide coat and is too inconsistent to use it as a guide.
@@30minforasn personally is use a dry guide coat, its a black powder thats applied with some sort of a sponge. It deffenittely helps with finding scratches from the previous sanding paper and instead of using a masking tape for sharp edges i use this powder to highlight where the edge is. To see if the object is totaly flat without any bumps etc i spray a solvent based cleaner so the object gets shiny and all the unefen parts gets highlighted. Nice to see how every one developes their own way of doing paint jobs.
Your way makes a lot more sense to me. @@lxHUNT3RxHDl
Thank you for always being transparent and honest I've learned more watching your videos than from working at a dealership
😅👍
Thank you!
i was left with suspense wondering what you boy wanted @12:08 haha
Can't wait to see the next episode 🙂. Appreciate the time and effort you take to make these lessons.
Muy bien Bro saludos desde Honduras🇭🇳 excelente trabajo 👍
Nice clip thanks! The part at 12:04 made it so much better!
This set of episodes are awesome. Answers all the basic questions I had.
Excellent series! With a common car and a job that most of us can be able to do !
wonderful job on the rear bumper you use da with 320 was there an interface pad on thank you
Best channel for what it is!
Hi Brian, really nice “real world” repairs (just the sort I might attempt in my own garage) thank you so much for expert guidance and I just know from previous examples this car will come out great! Live long and prosper buddy 🖖
Thank you!
@@PaintSociety can you make a review of Master pro 44 paint gun.
I think it's price is like $180.
Blessings bro!
Nice prep work. I miss painting. A place to spray priceless
Hey Brian, the primer spayed good enough to clear coat😁 enjoying this series🤙
Another cool installment in your series.
Great job Brian!
greetings from a car paint workshop in yogyakarta, indonesia
Good stuff, she's coming along sir!
Once again another great video!
Class Brian another great video
Hey Brian love your videos man. Can you do a review of master pro 44 hvlp spray gun? Blessings and take care bro.
Currently working at a body shop but for boats kinda the same thing but not really I’ve been wanting to work at an auto body for repairs and paint but maybe pay isn’t all that
Is looking good nice job.
Are you using a 3/16 stroke DA sander or 3/32 when sanding the original paint? Thanks in advance!
Really well done thank you
Awesome vid!
I was taught to step primer coats in, not out. You do not want to spray over dry overspray.
It’s poor practice to fill over paint in my Canadian climate. The metal and paint expand and contract at different rates during the cold season, and this can result in the repair showing it’s face 👍🏻
i did body work out of Alaska and did not find this to be an issue, as long as you fill over OEM paint only and not re sprays.
where would you recommend getting paint and clear?
I love your videos and have learned a lot from your content. But I have yet to see a video that someone working out of their garage can do. I'd like to see you use products you can buy from a local shop, in a setting like a garage, on a gun that's not $300+ . I'd like to see you cover the basics; like taping door jams, covering tires, "do & don'ts".
Have you seen his video called "Fixing Car Dents in Your Garage"? ua-cam.com/video/n6t4iQxvKzU/v-deo.html It might be just what you're looking for.
Hi there. Can you do small video on what to do if you get a run in your clear coat?
good work brother!
Thank you!
Love the videos. I am using the Eastwood roll on system on a 65 Corvair. At what point do I use seam sealer.
Thanks and Happy New Year
Great video as always. It looks like you are putting bondo right on bare metal. Some people claim that you really should epoxy prime first. What are your thoughts? Thank you.
Depends on the filler. You should use the filler suitable for adhesion to bare metal because not all do, and not all are effective at it. At my shop we never use any surfactant for adhesion between metal bond filler and the metal, it's not necessary. What we do do, is ensure there's plenty of adhesive texture, so we filler to the body at 180 grit and don't bond to primer or paint if you want long term adhesion :) but if you have a filler that recommends a surfactant or epoxy primer first then definitely FOLLOW that procedure! There are sooooooo many brands out there, it's insane. And they all ask for differing methods of application. And if u find one that works for you and gets u good results, then absolutely stick with it.
Waiting for next episode sir
Hey Brian, i have a dumb question. You mentioned to wait a couple days between priming and painting to allow the primer time to shrink. I understand that part, but should you wait a couple days after priming, and then block sand, after all the shrinking has taken place?; or does it make any difference if i sand it the next day?
Brian- this is a fantastic channel, and is giving me the courage to attempt a refresh on my K1500. Quick question- how many hours/man hours did you have in this Si, start to finish? Looks great! That is a great color!
Roughly 60 hours 😀
Do you have to do everything the same day or you can break out the coats to diferent days? Do the clear coat a couple days later?
When you’re talking about making sure to clean with solvent based cleaners can you be specific as to what you’re using ? Is it acetone or lacquer thinner or some type of mineral spirits
Wax and grease remover is most likely what he uses that's what we use at work. Just want to wipe it on wet and wipe it off with a dry cloth to remove contamination not just spreading it
Hi I’m looking to buy my first air compressor and 6” orbital sander 50$ from harbor freight the composite one. How many gallons/hp do you recommend for this cheap sander/air tools maybe basic air ratchet set up? I’m looking for the cheapest possible set up as I’m a weekend diy/UA-cam mechanic. I also own a 2008 Honda civic Si in Fuji blue pearl going to try this myself. Great videos watched all 3 and more thanks for your time.
Was just wondering what the base coat color was and what color red that is
I’ve been a painter a few years now I was always told prime out to in is there a difference in to out ? Taking my first coat to furthest point working way in on 2nd and 3rd coat.
Out to in works as well to keep the edge smoother.
You the man
Nice work Brian. What is your take on not applying body filler to bare metal. I noticed you did but some classic car restoration guys say its not good to apply filler over bare metal because it can introduce moisture. Thanks
Why shoot primer inside out? Rather then outside in? Wouldn't you get a better feather edge doing outside in? I doubt it matter
So would body filler only Crack on plastic bumbers or metal also
Is it best to do body work and welding before completely stripping the car too bare metal??
When filling bumpers do i need to use a flexible filler?
🔥🔥🔥
Do you have any videos on dealing with paint that is deleminating
What tip size for fiji blue pearl base . 08 civic mugen si
Gruß aus Deutschland. So ungefähr arbeite ich auch. Seit ca.30 Jahren.Gr.Harry
so I've been really thinking of painting my car myself. I need to know if what I'm thinking will truly work. I want to have my car be white but have a dark blue, gold and maybe purple shine to it. I'm thinking a satin clear coat or each color wold get the affect I'm looking for with a matte clear coat. basically trying to do a midnight purple effect.
any help with trying to get the paint I'm trying would be amazing
How do you stick the abrasives onto the blocks? Is it stick backed paper.
Yes
So is there no need to use plastic primer before you use regular primer?
That's a very informative sir Brian...can I ask question...if I can. You using primer is 2k primer...and a itchy primer is same as Bondo sir ... hopefully you can answer.. thank you
Itchy ?
@@PaintSociety yes is itchy primer same a filler Bondo ...and surfacer primer you using is 2k primer...
@@PaintSociety you sand block filler320grit and then there's a metal view..so you spray itchy primer...does it mean same as filler right...
@@mahalnidivine7270 you mean self etch primer ? That’s just for metal so it doesn’t rust
@@PaintSociety oh..that's what I mean... thank you sir Brian... Yes I mean Self itch primer....now I know this is for metal..for small spot...
Looking the amount of work, this is gonna be a pretty expensive bill... Nice
Do you need to clean the gun out after every coat? Even if you’re only leaving it 15 mins or so to flash off ?
Nope
If I'm right and I do when I'm going to paint a skateboard or something for someone for free just paying it forward
First??
Muy bueno tu canal. Pero en español por favor sigo a Scorpions painter gracias
Don't you ever get pigtails when you sand so quickly?
Dent guy... wtf is that 😆
Come back the next morning and the dent is mysteriously gone...
I dont understand, im looking at a spot you say was sanded with 180. but there's metal showing the middle of the spot? How is the metal not a low spot...............................
If the metal is showing is actually a high spot.
Это шпаклёвка для пластика или обычная для кузова
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 Órale Gracias 🙏🏼
Where are you guys located?
What stroke sander you used there ?
I'm a painter , beautiful work , i am from Brazil say hello to me
olá
Hello
Is it safe to use body filler in colder weather or should i wait for it to warm up? I have the Evercoat Optex Rage
yea its fine down to a certain point, it just takes forever to be sandable.
You definitely can use it
@@PaintSociety Thanks Brian
Were you using interface pad on the DA?
I was using a 3m prepping pad
Are you ever concerned that with that da you'll cut down the edges of body lines
I thought body filler should not be applied to bare metal?
Hi, still looking the viddeooooo for #giveaway. Compassion!!!! What is this? 🙏😁
👍👍👍👍👍
Judging by the amount of tiny dents Id say that this car was in a hail storm
Giveaway...???7.01
is there a link for that da sander
For the kovax?