Looks good! I've worked with burners, boilers, and furnaces for most my life, for a home built unit it look very good. For one added safety, not truly necessary, but I'm like being over protected, add a one way back flow valve before you ball valve. I'm a big believer in Murphy's Law! 8 yrs in the Marines proved that to me!! Take care I'm enjoying your videos. My grandson wants to start blacksmithing. He's 14 and they are moving back from the West coast so. His dad is in the Navy!!! God bless him! We get along great! Keep the videos coming! Thanks Randy.
back flow valve... I need one too. I have a fifteen year old working on the forge and I probably should spend 20 bucks to keep everyone alive, Problem : I can't find on amazon. I can find check valves for inert gas and liquid. Does anyone have a link to the right valve I should be using ? Any help would be appreciated.
@@beegreengrowersunionwv.7523 did you ever end up finding one? I'm just starting to get into blacksmithing and I want to make sure I stay safe aswell. Like you said, 20 bucks to keep everyone alive is well worth it lol.
OK, so lm building a ribbon burner. What type of regulator do you use. Also does it matter if the burner is attached at the bottom. It seems like the 2 inch pipe would stay cooler and the work would get hotter faster.
Hi John. I was just wondering if you had any thoughts on burner placement? I've seen some people put them off to the side to create a swirl effect but I think they are using venturi burners not ribbon. Do you know or think it makes a difference with a ribbon burner? Burner placement is pretty much the last thing I need to make a descion on with my forge. Thanks
awesome build!. it's one of the great things about forges, you can custom tailor them to suit your needs. great idea to have that cut off valve for your gas, I've seen some install an automatic cut off in the event of power failures. i have a single 1" venturi burner in a compact firebrick incased in plate steel made by a local manufacturer, really neat design. heats to a welding temp, great to start out with.
That is a neat forge. I'd love to see a full build. Been wanting to make the jump away from solid fuel. . . some of the time and go with gas. I think this might be the way I want to go. Thanks for the great video as always Jon.
What do you consider to be an efficient forge? I run a venturi forge and 20# of propane lasts me about 16-20 hours and I can forge weld in it no problem. It costs me about 70 cents per hour to run. I don't know the psi I need to run off hand to forge weld but it's probably around 3 psi. That large fire brick in your forge is a massive heatsink my brother. If you cut that brick and make it 1/4" thick and made a crumble fire brick floor onto of a thin piece of sheet metal your forge would be a lot more efficient and run at a higher temperature at a lower pressure.
Great videos, this and the burner vid. Couple of questions for you. After a year, how is it running? Would you have changed anything? What type of tank did you use for the body? Thanks for all your videos Rob
Still running great! I do kind of wish I had made the chamber wider and not quite so tall to make doing axes easier. Actually currently working on a new one with that design in mind. The forge body was made from a standard 20 Pound propane tank, like you’d see on a grill.
Wish I’d known about ribbon burners before I started building my forge. Just finished my first venturi burner forge, but I have a blower on hand from another project, so doing this would have not really cost me much more.
hey! just finished my forge build, and thanks for the video! im curious if you could do a video on fuel/air ratio for peak heat output (i would like to forge weld, but cant quite get there. thanks!
Hey John I'm currently pulling parts together to build my first gas forge. I have watched your video on building a forge from a propane tank and took a lot from that. I wanted to know more about the forge you currently use in this video. Did you make that forge? What is the housing made from? Would a ribbon burner that is made from 2''x2''x8'' square make a good burner for a propane tank size forge? This is my first gas forge build and I choose not to do anything half ass, that's the main reason i'm going ribbon burner for the first gas build. Love the videos!!
TOTO UNICORN I did make my current forge. It’s also made of a propane tank. 2 inches of ceramic wool with about half an inch of castable same as the one in the forge building video. I just changed the shape of the chamber a little bit. Rather than round I made it flat on the bottom to make doing wider blades like axes easier. Also a 2x8 ribbon burner should be plenty of power. I use a 3x6.5 one myself and it’s a tad bit overpowered.
@@OldHickoryForge Thank you for your fast response. Another question, when you made your foundry ribbon burner set up. Where your propane goes into the main air flow pipe, do you have a small orifice hole there? Or is it just a large open hole from you needle valve all the way to the black iron piping?
Jesse Hannah that’s not a good idea. Steel is not a good insulator. It would take an immense amount of fuel to bring it up to working heat and would very quickly degrade.
So, after almost a year how much gas does it save you? I'm looking to build my first forge and efficiency is extremely important to me. But so far all I've heard is people saying forced air is more efficient because of x psi. No one ever says how much more. PSI tells me two things, 1)Jack 2)Squat. I can vent the tank to open air and never achieve 2 psi no matter how much I crank it in. I suppose you would have to know what the flow rate is at your needle valve setting to really know. Anyway, have you found it to be more efficient in daily use? Can anyone who has used both give me any idea of how much, if any, difference is there? Also I don't believe you mentioned in your build videos anything about using ITC 100, plastix or Matricote 90AC which is what I'm planning to use. Do you have any opinions on reflective coatings? Good to see you are pushing 8k subscribers now!
SagerMan67 id say vs my Venturi gorge I probably get about 25-30 percent more run time out of a 40 pound tank at normal forging temps. Maybe about 15 percent more if I’m running it hard. Reflective coatings like itc 100 are great. Satanite works well also. The problem with lower density refractories like that is they aren’t very flux resistant, so I prefer the Mizzou castable. Might try kastolite 30 whenever I re line this one. But the burner itself has held up great, no signs of wear or decreased performance. With as much welding as I do I’d have probably gone through 3 sets of flares at this point. So I guess yes I have found it to be more efficient in gas use, as well as how fast the forge comes up to heat. About twice as fast as my Venturi forge. Much easier to tune down low for lighter work. No dead space in the forge makes doing Damascus a lot easier as well. All in all I’ve been extremely happy with the performance of the forge. Ribbon burner can’t really be beat
Help, help I did build my ribbon burner,much as yourself. Probably run not adding enough gas and air after forge. Running a blue one inch flame as you're till oven linner glows hot but then the sound change and the flame seems to go inside the burner head and it glows red hot
John Jude are you turning it way down after the inside of the forge comes up to heat? It could be a number of reasons that’s happening. Your burner could be too far inside the forge. Not enough air is a likely problem also. It’s hard to say without being able to see your set up for myself
Ernest Sheffield this one is 3x6 and it’s way more than enough burner for the 500 cubic inches or so of the forge. Welds at 5psi. Have accidentally melted thinner stuff in it a few times
Chris Daube the manufacturer says that wiring the blower to any kind of speed control device is bad for the motor and will wear it out a lot quicker. The air gate works good for me. Thanks for watching!
Heyya... could be a dumb question, I don’t care I’ma tenderfoot to these realms. But is that furnace just a hijacked BBQ smoker packed with refractory cement?? I’d like to build my own, I’m assuming those are sufficient materials, PLEASE! Correct if I’m wrong..?? Thanks
John, it's funny I just finish re lining my ribbon forge. The only thing I did different was first I didn't use a needle value I only use a high pressure regulator. The other design change it in stead of a air gate I used a ball value for plumbing which is essentially the same thing and I used a bouncy house blower for my air source. A bit of an overkill on the air but hey it's a lot cheaper that buying one from any Blacksmithing shop. I love my ribbon burner and only did a rebuild because I wanted to add insulation. Now I have 4 in a Kaowool and a thin layer of castable 1/4 in or so. I sill have plenty of room for as much as I want to shove in there. You wil love this design. Absolutely no hot spots, extremely even heat, and you can lower the pressure after you reach a welding heat to two lbs. at least for me I can . Also after I ran all out for four hrs. I was able to touch the out side of my forge and hold my hand on it for a short time. On my next one I am going to use Soft FB Ans two inches of Kaowool with a thin castable lining. Martin
Rick Mayo in that forge it was actually just kind of wedged in there. Held up fine. Eventually I welded on brackets that were drilled and tapped for half inc bolts to hold it in place.
HarlieJ it does but not really that much because you have more almost as much control with the needle valve as you do with the regulator. Running your gas at a higher pressure with your needle valve not open enough can kind of make your gas and air not mix quite right. I usually run mine about halfway open and then usually run the regulator at about 2-3 psi. 5-7 for welding.
hey there, i don't know where else to ask - maybe you'll see this! you mention you get forge welding heat at 2psi. what size fuel inlet are you using? i've been injecting fuel with a MIG tip into mine and can't seem to get it up to a hot enough temperature, or am getting crazy blowback into the plenum of the burner. it's driving me crazy as all i want to do is forge and i can't get the damn thing to fire properly.
@@OldHickoryForge regardless though, it's a pretty small orifice out of that needle valve, right? I feel like that's fairly comparable to a mig tip and then working off of the regulator to get that 2 psi?
The Bogamin it’s adjustable. There’s no fixed orifice size. You can open it to allow in more fuel. To be fair my old regulator didn’t have a gauge so I was eyeballing it. Now that I do have one I can tell you for certain the fuel delivery system I use will weld at 3-4. I sometimes crank it up to 5 if I’m working a large billet or if I’m in a hurry.
Ronald Fritz Mizzou castabke refractory. It’s available on a few websites but amazon has the best price. A 55 pound bag runs about 100 bucks and will last for over a year easy. Unless you’re building a lot of forges
Lenblacksmith I actually didn’t built the burner itself I know a guy who makes them and for what he sells them for t was cheaper to buy than it was to make it myself
Ok i built a coal forge and re used a bathroom exhost fan for the blower its 50 cfm. I really like the way you do your videos, and the tecniques you share thanks.
Wow... this video demonstration opened up a whole bunch of ideas for me. Glass work. Casting non ferrous metals. Jewelry. Firing small ceramics. Tool making/repairs.
Grandadz Forge I didn’t make the burner itself I know a guy who makes them and sells them for less then I could spend to make it myself. The blower is a 112 cfm blower from blacksmiths depot
But he casts his burners in a mould with crayons to make the holes and when the mold cures he melts out the crayons. So it’s a block of refractory cast onto th manifold
+@@OldHickoryForge , thank you. I'm currently gathering the pieces and parts to build my own forge/foundry. Glad your up n running and having fun! Blessed days, Crawford out
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
What blower are you using? did it last? Im curious to build a setup like this. Fuel costs have been eating my wallet.
Looks good! I've worked with burners, boilers, and furnaces for most my life, for a home built unit it look very good. For one added safety, not truly necessary, but I'm like being over protected, add a one way back flow valve before you ball valve. I'm a big believer in Murphy's Law! 8 yrs in the Marines proved that to me!! Take care I'm enjoying your videos. My grandson wants to start blacksmithing. He's 14 and they are moving back from the West coast so. His dad is in the Navy!!! God bless him! We get along great! Keep the videos coming! Thanks Randy.
back flow valve... I need one too. I have a fifteen year old working on the forge and I probably should spend 20 bucks to keep everyone alive,
Problem : I can't find on amazon. I can find check valves for inert gas and liquid. Does anyone have a link to the right valve I should be using ? Any help would be appreciated.
@@beegreengrowersunionwv.7523 did you ever end up finding one? I'm just starting to get into blacksmithing and I want to make sure I stay safe aswell. Like you said, 20 bucks to keep everyone alive is well worth it lol.
Help support the channel www.patreon.com/user?u=16387344
I'm putting the finishing touches on my ribbon burner this weekend, should be able to fire it up soon
Me and my 8yr old grandson love your channel. One thing we love to say is "nothing to it really". Don't worry we don't say it all the time.
Were did you get the blower? I just got a ribbon burner forge that came with a air mattress blower. I would like to have one like yours.
OK, so lm building a ribbon burner. What type of regulator do you use. Also does it matter if the burner is attached at the bottom. It seems like the 2 inch pipe would stay cooler and the work would get hotter faster.
You want a 0-30 psi regulator. I'm not entirely sure what you're asking on the second part
Hi John. I was just wondering if you had any thoughts on burner placement? I've seen some people put them off to the side to create a swirl effect but I think they are using venturi burners not ribbon. Do you know or think it makes a difference with a ribbon burner? Burner placement is pretty much the last thing I need to make a descion on with my forge. Thanks
Newbie with a ribbon burner it doesn’t make much difference. Mounting it top down just makes it the easiest to assemble.
@@OldHickoryForge Cool, thanks for the reply. :-)
awesome build!. it's one of the great things about forges, you can custom tailor them to suit your needs. great idea to have that cut off valve for your gas, I've seen some install an automatic cut off in the event of power failures. i have a single 1" venturi burner in a compact firebrick incased in plate steel made by a local manufacturer, really neat design. heats to a welding temp, great to start out with.
what kind of a blower are you using, seems like some sort of AliExpress offering, could you give a link or some specs?
also, what is your fuel consumption per hour?
Please show how to build it.
Fire start after @1:50
That is a neat forge. I'd love to see a full build. Been wanting to make the jump away from solid fuel. . . some of the time and go with gas. I think this might be the way I want to go. Thanks for the great video as always Jon.
Ukon Rauta Ironworks how does your propane usage compare vs your old forge ?
What do you consider to be an efficient forge? I run a venturi forge and 20# of propane lasts me about 16-20 hours and I can forge weld in it no problem. It costs me about 70 cents per hour to run. I don't know the psi I need to run off hand to forge weld but it's probably around 3 psi. That large fire brick in your forge is a massive heatsink my brother. If you cut that brick and make it 1/4" thick and made a crumble fire brick floor onto of a thin piece of sheet metal your forge would be a lot more efficient and run at a higher temperature at a lower pressure.
Great videos, this and the burner vid.
Couple of questions for you. After a year, how is it running? Would you have changed anything? What type of tank did you use for the body?
Thanks for all your videos
Rob
Still running great! I do kind of wish I had made the chamber wider and not quite so tall to make doing axes easier. Actually currently working on a new one with that design in mind. The forge body was made from a standard 20
Pound propane tank, like you’d see on a grill.
@@OldHickoryForge
Thanks!!!
Wish I’d known about ribbon burners before I started building my forge. Just finished my first venturi burner forge, but I have a blower on hand from another project, so doing this would have not really cost me much more.
I have no interest in building a forge -- but I'm watching anyway.
hey! just finished my forge build, and thanks for the video! im curious if you could do a video on fuel/air ratio for peak heat output (i would like to forge weld, but cant quite get there. thanks!
Hey John I'm currently pulling parts together to build my first gas forge. I have watched your video on building a forge from a propane tank and took a lot from that. I wanted to know more about the forge you currently use in this video. Did you make that forge? What is the housing made from? Would a ribbon burner that is made from 2''x2''x8'' square make a good burner for a propane tank size forge? This is my first gas forge build and I choose not to do anything half ass, that's the main reason i'm going ribbon burner for the first gas build.
Love the videos!!
TOTO UNICORN I did make my current forge. It’s also made of a propane tank. 2 inches of ceramic wool with about half an inch of castable same as the one in the forge building video. I just changed the shape of the chamber a little bit. Rather than round I made it flat on the bottom to make doing wider blades like axes easier. Also a 2x8 ribbon burner should be plenty of power. I use a 3x6.5 one myself and it’s a tad bit overpowered.
@@OldHickoryForge Thank you for your fast response. Another question, when you made your foundry ribbon burner set up. Where your propane goes into the main air flow pipe, do you have a small orifice hole there? Or is it just a large open hole from you needle valve all the way to the black iron piping?
TOTO UNICORN it’s pretty much the same set up as the orifice assembly on my forge. Needle valve is what controls the volume of gas flow
Thanks brother. Good job 👍 quick n clear.
Im upgrading to a ribbon forge soon. I am going to try and make it entirely of steel with no castable refractorym. I hope it will still work
Jesse Hannah that’s not a good idea. Steel is not a good insulator. It would take an immense amount of fuel to bring it up to working heat and would very quickly degrade.
I really hope you didnt do that
Great video !!! Will be trying to build one soon. Thanks
So, after almost a year how much gas does it save you? I'm looking to build my first forge and efficiency is extremely important to me. But so far all I've heard is people saying forced air is more efficient because of x psi. No one ever says how much more. PSI tells me two things, 1)Jack 2)Squat. I can vent the tank to open air and never achieve 2 psi no matter how much I crank it in. I suppose you would have to know what the flow rate is at your needle valve setting to really know. Anyway, have you found it to be more efficient in daily use? Can anyone who has used both give me any idea of how much, if any, difference is there? Also I don't believe you mentioned in your build videos anything about using ITC 100, plastix or Matricote 90AC which is what I'm planning to use. Do you have any opinions on reflective coatings? Good to see you are pushing 8k subscribers now!
SagerMan67 id say vs my Venturi gorge I probably get about 25-30 percent more run time out of a 40 pound tank at normal forging temps. Maybe about 15 percent more if I’m running it hard. Reflective coatings like itc 100 are great. Satanite works well also. The problem with lower density refractories like that is they aren’t very flux resistant, so I prefer the Mizzou castable. Might try kastolite 30 whenever I re line this one. But the burner itself has held up great, no signs of wear or decreased performance. With as much welding as I do I’d have probably gone through 3 sets of flares at this point. So I guess yes I have found it to be more efficient in gas use, as well as how fast the forge comes up to heat. About twice as fast as my Venturi forge. Much easier to tune down low for lighter work. No dead space in the forge makes doing Damascus a lot easier as well. All in all I’ve been extremely happy with the performance of the forge. Ribbon burner can’t really be beat
Nice looking forge John.
Woah! Over a thousand? Gosh, I think you were only at like 700 when I subscribed.
Help, help I did build my ribbon burner,much as yourself.
Probably run not adding enough gas and air after forge.
Running a blue one inch flame as you're till oven linner glows hot but then the sound change and the flame seems to go inside the burner head and it glows red hot
John Jude are you turning it way down after the inside of the forge comes up to heat? It could be a number of reasons that’s happening. Your burner could be too far inside the forge. Not enough air is a likely problem also. It’s hard to say without being able to see your set up for myself
4"x8"? I will be building a ribbon burner propane tank forge for making damascus. So I need to know what size burner I need. Thanks a bunch.
Ernest Sheffield this one is 3x6 and it’s way more than enough burner for the 500 cubic inches or so of the forge. Welds at 5psi. Have accidentally melted thinner stuff in it a few times
Hey dude,
Nice build!!tell me though,having a gate valve versus a rheostat to control airflow,what are your thoughts?
Cheers John
Chris Daube the manufacturer says that wiring the blower to any kind of speed control device is bad for the motor and will wear it out a lot quicker. The air gate works good for me. Thanks for watching!
الهدرة ازيد من المعلومة
Heyya... could be a dumb question, I don’t care I’ma tenderfoot to these realms.
But is that furnace just a hijacked BBQ smoker packed with refractory cement??
I’d like to build my own, I’m assuming those are sufficient materials, PLEASE! Correct if I’m wrong..??
Thanks
Looks like it's a 5 gal propane tank insulated with refactory cement.
It is an old propane tank lined with 2600 degree ceramic fiber blanket and then a layer of refractory cement over that to protect the wool
John, it's funny I just finish re lining my ribbon forge. The only thing I did different was first I didn't use a needle value I only use a high pressure regulator. The other design change it in stead of a air gate I used a ball value for plumbing which is essentially the same thing and I used a bouncy house blower for my air source. A bit of an overkill on the air but hey it's a lot cheaper that buying one from any Blacksmithing shop. I love my ribbon burner and only did a rebuild because I wanted to add insulation. Now I have 4 in a Kaowool and a thin layer of castable 1/4 in or so. I sill have plenty of room for as much as I want to shove in there. You wil love this design. Absolutely no hot spots, extremely even heat, and you can lower the pressure after you reach a welding heat to two lbs. at least for me I can . Also after I ran all out for four hrs. I was able to touch the out side of my forge and hold my hand on it for a short time. On my next one I am going to use Soft FB Ans two inches of Kaowool with a thin castable lining. Martin
I ment to say gate valve
Nice video with good description. Thanks.
Nice explanation John. Thanks for sharing
How did you affix the ribbon burner into the forge? i can't tell if it is welded in or. . .
Rick Mayo in that forge it was actually just kind of wedged in there. Held up fine. Eventually I welded on brackets that were drilled and tapped for half inc bolts to hold it in place.
Thank you for the info....
What pressure to you run from the propane tank up to the needle valve? Does it even matter?
HarlieJ it does but not really that much because you have more almost as much control with the needle valve as you do with the regulator. Running your gas at a higher pressure with your needle valve not open enough can kind of make your gas and air not mix quite right. I usually run mine about halfway open and then usually run the regulator at about 2-3 psi. 5-7 for welding.
great demo and description of how to operate it
hey there, i don't know where else to ask - maybe you'll see this! you mention you get forge welding heat at 2psi. what size fuel inlet are you using? i've been injecting fuel with a MIG tip into mine and can't seem to get it up to a hot enough temperature, or am getting crazy blowback into the plenum of the burner. it's driving me crazy as all i want to do is forge and i can't get the damn thing to fire properly.
I don’t use a mig tip. I use an adjustable needle valve.
@@OldHickoryForge regardless though, it's a pretty small orifice out of that needle valve, right? I feel like that's fairly comparable to a mig tip and then working off of the regulator to get that 2 psi?
The Bogamin it’s adjustable. There’s no fixed orifice size. You can open it to allow in more fuel. To be fair my old regulator didn’t have a gauge so I was eyeballing it. Now that I do have one I can tell you for certain the fuel delivery system I use will weld at 3-4. I sometimes crank it up to 5 if I’m working a large billet or if I’m in a hurry.
Love it! Cant wait till I build mine!
-Will
how did u get the cast refactory stuff and what is it called so i can get me some?
Ronald Fritz Mizzou castabke refractory. It’s available on a few websites but amazon has the best price. A 55 pound bag runs about 100 bucks and will last for over a year easy. Unless you’re building a lot of forges
Sweet
How much air do you need to move for the burner to perform properly? CFM?
BigAlbertson+1 I have a 112 cfm blower and it works great
@@OldHickoryForge Thanks Brother! Great job.
CFM on the blower? Thanks!
112 I believe.
Nice been looking at these, would have loved to see how you built the ribbon burner.
Lenblacksmith I actually didn’t built the burner itself I know a guy who makes them and for what he sells them for t was cheaper to buy than it was to make it myself
Ok cool.
love videos, keep it up!
How much did the whole forge with the burner cost to build
Oscar LeClair about 400
Thanks
Pretty sweet!
What kind of cfm on the fan do you need for that?
Jacob Rawles the blower I have is 112. It works but I would like a bigger one
Ok i built a coal forge and re used a bathroom exhost fan for the blower its 50 cfm. I really like the way you do your videos, and the tecniques you share thanks.
Wow... this video demonstration opened up a whole bunch of ideas for me.
Glass work.
Casting non ferrous metals.
Jewelry.
Firing small ceramics.
Tool making/repairs.
What blower is that? Specs? And did you take a refractory brick and drill holes or cast it with refractory and a mold?
Grandadz Forge I didn’t make the burner itself I know a guy who makes them and sells them for less then I could spend to make it myself. The blower is a 112 cfm blower from blacksmiths depot
But he casts his burners in a mould with crayons to make the holes and when the mold cures he melts out the crayons. So it’s a block of refractory cast onto th manifold
So you've had it up and running for a lil piece now. Hows it performing for you?
Thank you for sharing. Blessed day sirSir, Crawford out.
It’s amazing. Wish I’d have built it years ago
+@@OldHickoryForge , thank you. I'm currently gathering the pieces and parts to build my own forge/foundry.
Glad your up n running and having fun!
Blessed days, Crawford out