Spark Plug Replacement Toyota Rav4 2006-2012
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- Here is how to change the spark plugs on a Toyota Rav4 from the years of 2006-2012 with the 3.5L V6.
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watching this video gave me the fortitude to do this job. It was not too bad until I got to the rear bolts that attach the intake manifold to the engine. I used a mirror to find the bolts and then blindly found them, but once found, they were easy to take out once they were released. On the passenger side, there is a wiring harness close to the firewall that interferes and I could not figure out how to remove the plastic holder in such tight quarters. After I finally got the manifold off I was able to remove two plastic wire harness holders that got in the way. It made it easier install the 2 bolts to the rear of the intake manifold. The front plugs are the easiest and the rear plugs proved to be a challenge because I could not take the wire connection off the last two coils to the left, fortunately you can take them off carefully with the wires still attached. The last coil on the left cannot be removed unless you loosen a bolt to the piece of metal over them, an offset, I think it is called. Reassembly was also easy and it gave me the opportunity to clean the throttle body on both sides, as I had never ventured to remove it completely. I was worried about the manifold gasket, but I was satisfied that it was in very good condition, I also cleaned the surface of the engine where the manifold sits. Now I need a beer!
Well done! Thank you for watching!
Very helpful video, thanks! You might want to add that the spark plug threads should be lubed with anit-seize to aid later removal from the aluminum head.
Actually the first thing you need to do is change the title of this video to reflect that this is for V 6 Rav 4s. For moment there I thought was having a nervous breakdown! The second thing you need to do is wipe some of the crud off the housings before you start opening up engine ports. If a clean engine is a happy engine a dirty engine is not! The third thing you need to do is explain to viewers that while an experienced mechanic may not need to use a torque wrench to tighten spark plugs going into an aluminum engine DIY mechanics have been know to think that "tight enough" was quite a bit too loose...
Thanks a million! We'll a few hundred at least since that's what you saved me ha ha. Straight forward instructions although ran into a few snags getting the rear bolts off (had trouble identifying them at first) and with those damn tabs holding the spark plug wires... Someone mentioned in another video that when putting the plenum back on to screw the front 6 bolts on lightly to align the rear ones easier. Worked like a charm. Oh I also didn't realize one of hoses went under the plenum and didnt notice till I had the throttle body back on. Some cussing for sure after that mistake as I had to take the plenum back off. So make sure you double check that everyone!
I found several videos describing this procedure, but this one was the clearest, most helpful.
I only had to replace one coil, as identified by my Bluetooth coupled OBD module. I only skinned two knuckles. I slipped a magnet onto the end of a ratchet extension to pull the four hex head bolts out.
Thanks for watching!
Great video and tutorial! We had to remove a additional bracket covering one of the rear spark plugs. The bracket is for the intake manifold. Also, since we didn't have a air ratchet, the rear wire harness had to be un-clipped in three places to provide room to use a 1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchet.
Ive been looking everywhere for a video like this. I appreciate that you didn't cut any video out from the process. You guys savers me $300. Thanks a ton!
AWESOME! We love hearing that! Thank you for watching!
My dad was a mechanical engineer whose mantra was, "A clean engine is a happy engine!" While a mechanic charging $100 an hour doesn't have time to clean stuff a home mechanic would be well advised to do so as all that crud does nothing to improve the performance of the car and it increases the chance of something falling into the ports as it's removed. I also always but anti seize compound on the spark plug thread as aluminum heads and steel plugs tend to seize. Last but not least while experienced mechanics who change plugs day in day out develop a sense of how tight to install spark plugs the DIY mechanic would be well advised to,use a torque wrench. Strip out a spark plug hole by over-tightening and you will think the price of a torque wrench is money well spent!
I did the replacement today, it took approximately 2 hours. A couple of comments though. I noticed on the video that the (4) inner bolts on the intake manifold were socket head, so I made sure I had a selection of metric socket heads. I also realized that on assembly it was helpful to loosely install the intake manifold with the (6) front bolts and then thread the back two before everything was tight. This allowed some compliance and made fitting easier, especially as I had to remove the passenger side rear manifold bolt bracket, as it covered the passenger side spark plug, and knew I wouldn't get it in exactly the right position to insert the bolt. Also, it was mandatory to have two short extensions when removing/replacing the rear plugs; that made it possible to pull the drive half way out, remove a section, and then remove the rest; it's not possible to get a single extension past the firewall and down the plug hole.
Pretty easy job compared to the Sienna. I was also amazed how good the old spark plugs looked after 130k miles. Beautiful mixture color and no carbon or oil.
Again, thanks for the video.
Senor Mucho Can't tell you how much your advice helped me. Thank you, sir!
dont forget anti seize on threads or war else or or else or else be in big trouble
@@davidmeyer7199 antiseize on what? Im about to do this job want all the help i can get
@@josiahgutierrez6192 tiny bit of antiseze. On treads of spark plugs or they can. Get stuck next time u go to remove them. Some spark plugs come with some on others dont
Excellent video. Could be improved by stating each tool size during use as per Ewing. The most difficult part is the back bolt on the left (as I am right handed). It is particularly difficult to get aligned and started in the thread. In addition to Senor Mucho's advise to do this first. I suggest leaving the bracket a little loose and removing the wire bundle from the nearby standoff. These are easily finished after the manifold is bolted on. You might need something like the 5mm hex head socket used for the 4 inner manifold bolts. In my case they were very tight. I had to use a pipe wrench on a T hex wrench and almost rounded the bolts. I made 3 mistakes that doubled execution time:
1. I discovered one new spark plug after all 6 have been "replaced". Discard old spark plugs immediately after removal.
2. Take your time and don't drop any bolt.
3. Double check electrical connections before replacing manifold.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for this excellent video. I will be having a word of prayer and then starting this tomorrow morning. There were many somewhat hidden bolts that you showed that will save me a ton of trouble. I looked at several videos and this one was far and away the best. Great Job!
Kenneth Coe lol how did it go? I’m looking to do the same
@@JAYBud88 he got electrocuted. How did it go for you?
My spark plug control wire connectors were much harder to remove than in the video. They were also brittle and snapped when pressed. I bent the shaft on a tiny screwdriver to make a little pry bar to lift the catch. This was very useful for the 3 rear connectors.
Same happened to me with the connectors. The catch broke right off. Is this ok? Looks like you did this a few years ago....did the connector slide off the plug over time or no issues?
Work at a shop saw your video one of the best out there clear good quality good info
Perfect! Concise and well filmed...thank you, I’ll be able to do mine with confidence now...the right tools make all the difference. Appreciate your time.
You got this! Thanks for watching!
Essentially a great video for the ignition coils too! I need to replace both. I just order the parts to try and do it myself. This video should save me around $1000 in labor cost. Thanks for sharing. Just wish I had that power wrench. That'd save so much time.
Eric Hooker how did it all workout for you? I'm doing mine this weekend and I'm terrified
Meilani Kaitlyn the
Get a buddy to help remember
Wow. Didn’t even realize I had comment reply’s on this comment. Sorry y’all. So we ended up just having a friend who had the power wrench and extender do them. But the car was falling apart anyways so thankfully we didn’t pay too much for his help.
Great video and THANK YOU for posting it. One tip. Buy black work gloves from a company called Raven. Powder free nitrile 6mil. Dude. they are life changers. A BMW mechanic turned me on to them, and they ROCK. WAY better than any other brand I have used. Do yourself a favor.
Great tip! I have been using 5ml blue gloves for a while now. But I will definitely check out those 6ml. Thanks for watching!
I've been putting this off for a while but just did this job thanks so much for the tutorial. I'm a complete novice but was able to do it taking my time; took me most of the day on and off and had to make a trip to home depot after my cheap sockets broke.. I had a ton more rust on the bolts than in this video. The back manifold bolts were very hard to get off for me; almost seized up and not a lot of room for wrench movement. I sprayed as many as the bolts as I could see with PB blaster and let it sit overnight before doing the job.
The catch on 3 of the ignitor coil plugs snapped off. It was extremely brittle. Hoping this isn't and issue and plug won't work itself out over time. The back 3 plugs were a bit of a pain at first because one of my extenders (3 pack Husky brand from HD) were too short and the other too long. What I did was drop the spark plug socket into the shaft, then use the longer extender to loosen/ tighten the spark plug w/ wrench. The short extender + spark plug socket + drill bit socket adapter was just long enough so I could grab the tip and use it to retrieve the spark plug socket and pull it out.
I agree with a couple of the other posts putting everything back on - leave the left bracket for the back manifold bolt a little loose and use the front 4 to line it up first.
I also replaced the manifold gasket and used a little anti-seize lube on every thread.
I went to change the plugs, but since the engine was already apart I rebuilt it!!!
Lol right?
Awesome video, but it is 100% possible to replace the three rear spark plugs without removing the intake manifold for anyone who is facing this repair!
That's a definite no.
@@SamKGrove yeah you can. There's other videos on UA-cam on how to do it 🤔
@@joseluisrobles4936, maybe you can, but why torture yourself? Removing the intake manifold is not difficult and makes the rear coils as accessible as the front coils.
@@SamKGrove This was a misunderstanding, I was referring to the 4 cylinder engine, in the case of the 6 cylinder engine, I agree that removing the intake manifold would be a good thing to do 🤣
We have the Limited which is V6, so that is my experience.
Great video, can you include the recommended torque specs for each screw and plugs. Thanks
Not quite as simple as my '56 chevy was, but thought I would take a look as my RAV4 is due. Your video was very well done and I may take a crack at this. Need to see if I have all the tools before I start.
Thanks! 👍
Thank you guys. I just finished doing this with ur excellent video. You guys saved me 400 bucks. Really appreciate it !
400 bucks well saved! Nice work! Thanks for watching!
Tools needed:
10 and 12mm socket
5mm hex wrench
phillips head screwdriver
When space allows, the above work well with a drill or air ratchet.
Also need a short screwdriver.
Please add anything I missed:
A swear jar
J Ewing Spark plug socket. And I would replace the intake manifold seals/gaskets. They aren’t expensive and will keep you from having leaks. Oh,use a torque wrench on everything when you are reassembling.
You should add this to the description of the video as well. Great video! :)
I put a little anti-seize on every thread.
God bless you for posting this video.
Excellent video. Thank you for putting it together and posting it.
Why didn’t you replace the silicone manifold gaskets? They are only like $20,
Great video! Very detailed with clear pictures and step by step instructions. Way better than the Haynes manual from the library.
Thank you for watching!
Great video with clear and precise demonstration.
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for sharing more repair videos on Rav 4's
If I get one in I definitely will! Thanks for watching!
This is a good video and detailed
I love the video but how did you remove ignition coil wire with out breaking the clips ????
Very carefully. grab the sides with a pliers and the depress the end of the clip with your finger.
That elevator music has GOT to go!!!!!!
Thank you so much for posting this complete video. I needed to change of the ignition coils from the back of the engine and this showed me how...
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Looks a bit complicated you have the right tools
Thank you so much for sharing the video.have a nice day Sir.
Thanks for watching!
i'd like to replace it myself but i am afraid i will forget how to put the pieces back on. i only have 1 car and i dont wanna screw it
Just go slowly and take pictures of stuff to remember how things go back together. You got it!
just rewatch the beginning of this video then...hehe
the night before watch the video 2X save the Beers for when u are done. EGBOK .
Thank you for the detail informative video this helped a lot..❤
Thank you very much for this! excellent video that is clear and concise with great camera angles and lighting!
You're very welcome!
how can you compare the gap with the used plug?! The gaps are gonna be different due to the one being used and worn. Most plugs you buy come pre gapped anyways....great video though!!! Helped me a ton!!!! Thank you!
You are mainly comparing the size and thread type to make sure the plug will fit again. You should always refer to your manual for the gap. If you buy pre gapped and they are the same plug then good to go! Thank you for watching!
Thank you for explaing!!! Great video man!!!!
Thank you so much for watching and commenting :)
Nice video! This could save me like $350. Thanks
Awesome! Thanks for watching!
Would have been nice if you could tell us what size tools you used on each
Back bolt for the manifold won’t come off I feel like it was tightened with a power tool any tips? Thanks ahead of time
So no need to gap or check plug gap before installing? All are factory pre set. Thank You for the Video ;-)
Thanks for the help!!!
Thx you in advance. Is it possible to leave the throttle housing connected and just move the cover fwd enough to see the coils and plugs? Are you taking that step just to make it easier access or is it necessary. Thx.
You might, but I just take it away because it makes to easier in the long run in my opinion. Thanks for watching!
I thank God in heaven that I don't have this model of Toyota mine is the 2011 Rav4 and all you do is take the beauty cover off and the all four coils are right there pull them out in the spark plugs are underneath
Make that a long hex wrench. Six inches should do.
What did you use to clean the intake manifold gasket?
looks like carb cleaner
You don't have to replace the upper intake manifold gasket or throttle body gasket???????????????
Forgot to show two back bolts on throttle body when reassembling ! not good. Also what was the spray cleaner used. Socket sizes, hex size and torques would be nice.
same process with toyota venza 2010? thanks for video.
Beautiful work. At what mileage do the spark plugs need changed? Thanks, Dave
I'd look at them around 60k-100k miles depending on the engine. Thanks for watching Dave!
2CarPros, thanks, so I need to have a look see. Just bought a 2007 with 137K. Probably just change them out! Thanks for the great video, Dave!
do you have to disconnect the battery before working on any car especially disconnecting any wires like these? and dont you get a engine light after disconnecting everything, and i see 4 cylinder rav4 easier to change the spark plugs.
4 cyl is easier to change plugs, but the V6 is so much more powerful its worth the trouble every 120,000mi.
@@iancraig5471 yeah specially if its running fine... i got mine used so I have no idea,,, its now at 166k,,, I got it at 119k
Thanks very helpful 👍🏼
Great video. I have the 2012 Highlander with the 3.5L. Is it the same engine/set-up? It just looks like I'll have less room on the rear 3 cylinders to get at the plugs. Thanks!
Pretty much yeah, thank you so much for watching!
How long does this take for someone who works on there own engines but never a Rav 4?
Very good video, really helpful. Thank you for saving me $$$!
Question : Why doesn’t anyone show the Front Coil Pack and Spark Plug removal and replacement ?
Should the intake gasket be changed?
If it's in poor condition. Thanks for watching!
Of course the 3rd ignition plug on my RAV4 is misfiring, can't be anything easy like the ones in the front! ;-; I can reach around the air intake and feel the ignition plug and unscrew the bolt on it, but I can't get the dang thing unplugged.
Also what did you use to clean off the intake valves?
We didn't. Thanks for watching!
Very good video.
v6 has 3 easy ones in the front,,, can i go ahead and change those first.. do the back later?
Nothing stopping you from doing that, however I recommend always replacing all plugs at once. Thanks for watching!
Super good video save mucho money mucho dinero tanks muchas gracias
Thanks so much for watching!
Love it......
did you reuse the intake gasket and throtle body gasket?
Yeah if it is in good shape. Thanks for watching Eddie!
thanks great video ,,,i got one plug wet with motor oil how i fix that ,,,any one now please ..thanks
it sounds like you have a broken oil control ring
Awesome! Helpful!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks fellas!
Thanks for watching!
Where is the bolt at the 1:50 mark?
no anti seize or dielectric? interesting
No torque specs for the spark plugs? 🤷♂️
I changed mine yesterday, don’t over think it, just feel how much you had to torque to get them out and torque them about the same going in. I don’t think it’s super specific
Yes this exactly. Thanks for watching!
The gap should NOT match the old plugs for people that don't Know that they are probably not gapped properly.
Good video however.
Thanks a ton!!!!
Thank you so much for watching!
What the. No manifold gasket?
why need gasket? airleak? lol
@@dsrevo79 yes air leak. I made my own gasket,works for a few months then craps out. It could be warped
@@dsrevo79 wait I think this is another video lol. This one is spark plugs lol
Sorry ! Missed it at 5 minutes !
The back plugs are the difficult ones. Why wouldn't you slow down the video to show the technique? The fronts are easy!
How much torque on the plastic intake?
Right around 80ftlb, but if you tighten it with a ratchet by hand nice and tight it should be just fine.
Thank you! :)
Thank you for watching!
@@2carpros think this a typo. Maybe 80 inch-pounds? Or 8 lb-ft? Those little fasteners will shear off well before you get to 40 lb-ft, never mind 80 lb-ft.
I found a Toyota repair manual showing the 5mm Allen heads are 13 lb-ft
That's much things to removed to change the spark plug
Not too bad, just time consuming. Thanks for watching Henry!
what a pain in the butt!!! All this just to replace spark plugs? mercy!
I changed the spark plugs but now the idle rpm is around 1200 . Can anyone help me?
sounds normal if you have A/C on
My 2008 rav4 has a ideal of ~550 rpms and only raises to about 600 with full ac
Putting plugs under the intake manifold is a real stupid idea idk why they design stuff like that
Torque shmorque says this guy...
It’s so dumb they (Toyota) didn’t install the engine in a better orientation to do this without having to remove a bunch of crap
15 thausend followers nice
+twan fokker Thank you for noticing!
Yep, helping the world do car repair, that's our job!
NOT a Rav4 Lies
Is it possible to replace the rear coils without removing the intake ?
I don't think so. Thanks for watching!