This was the best video ever. I've never taken anything on my bike off and repaired it. I actually got the carburetor off, cleaned it, and made the correct adjustments by following manual. My bike was bogging down while going full throttle. Now I can full throttle and keep going. Thanks for this video I would've never attempted due to not knowing what I was doing.
After my 250R was sitting around for a season, the bike would start, but then stop. Since cleaner and compressed air would not allow me to see through the hole that runs the length of the pilot jet, I had to resort to carefully insert a small copper wire through the length of the pilot jet. It took me 1-1/2 days in total to remove, clean, and reassemble, but the learning experience was well worth it. Next time will be a breeze. Thank you for the nice instructional video!
This is a great video, I wasn't confident stripping this carb down at all, but after watching this I stripped, cleaned and reassembled in a couple of hours. Thanks Guys :-)
yeah we easily ordered over $2000 dollars worth of stuff from your website, its the only site we use and I go out and tell all my friends about how fast shipping is and how easy it is to order stuff. No more putting your orders in someone elses hands when its so easy and simple to order parts yourself. I'm in love with your website.
You are correct! Nice catch, we overlooked the float needle! Thanks! Yes the tip of the float needle can also swell and become useless if sprayed with carb cleaner.
If you're working on a carb from a Suzuki motorcycle, be sure to use a JIS screwdriver (Japanese Industrial Standard) and NOT a philips. They look identical (cross style screwdriver) but a philips will strip a JIS screw even if it appears to fit. Just about everyone who has a DR or DRZ motorcycle who tries to open the carb to clean the jets ends up stripping the screws for this reason. I learned this the hard way. You can replace the JIS screws with allen key head or regular philips screw (should be a M4 x 10 automotive screw on the float bowl assembly).
If the bike is hard to start i would check your valve clearances first. A lot of times that will cause the bike to be hard to start and can cause it to backfire. You can refer to our Valve Clearance video for instructions on how to do this. If your timing was off you would know, the bike wouldn't start and if it did you would definitely feel that something was off. Check clearances first and if that doesn't fix it look into jetting. Try adjusting the fuel screw and then move onto the jets...
Rocky Mountain ATV MC my yfz 450 sat for about 2 years without turning it on. Now im trying to turn it on but it won’t start at all. When i push the start button it don’t do anything and the temperature red light comes on as soon as i press the start button. Any ideas what is doing that?. Thanks
That was a Great how to video!! I like how you explained where each of the circuits, bolts, and holes are located on the carburetor while your were spraying it down. It was really helpful when you would state what tools you were using when disconnecting pieces!! Have a Great day man
I'll add it to the list. The 2 stroke carbs are a little different but if you have a service manual for your bike it will show how to disassemble your carb and clean it. As long as it goes back together the same way it came apart you'll be fine
That's going to depend on how dirty and gummed up your carb is. If you've got a plugged jet or circuit clearing that up can make a world of difference! It can help with easier starting and help your bike idle and run like it should. This is basically to clean all the dirt and other stuff out of the carb and to make sure there's not anything plugged up in there.
@5:04 I tried praying carburetor cleaner down the fuel line and it does not squirt out the accelerator/throttle nozzle. How can I trouble shoot a possible clog?
This is literally the best how to I swear. Ive never had time to do the carb myself ive always had someone else doing it , but this time my wallet was empty so what the hell why not right? Followed every step in the video nd long behold the accelerator diaphragm was corroded bad I mean BAD!! Also my main nd starting jets most definitely need to be replaced. Leaving rusty liquid nd rust dust all over the place. Thank God I found out before anything else happened! Thanks much appreciated. ------Andrew
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thanks you guys taught me something no one else could. I have a quick question tho im tring to look for just the diaphragm but seems like no one has it. Is it called acceleration pump diaphragm or gasket? Any help appreciated ______Andrew
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Its a 2006 kawasaki kx250f. You guys did it again man I just found it nd you have it in stock! I couldnt even get the other sites to understand me. Thank you so much! Fer sure a believer of RM now!
Thanks for the help. This worked great for my first time. I'm leaking gas, so i have to try again, but i wouldn't have been able to do anything if it wasn't for you! Thanks again!
They are not Phillips head screws they are JIS. A Phillips head screw driver will cam out if the screw is stiff. You see ruined screws on Japanese bikes all the time because of this. The little dot on the screw head is the give away.
Thanks for watching! and we're sorry to hear about your trouble! If you need you can find a parts list in your service manual or on the OEM diagrams of the carburetor so i would refer there to make sure you have all the parts! Good luck!
To make sure you get the correct part, your best bet is to check the OEM parts finder for your bike and locate that brass piece. You can find OEM parts here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts
please, could you tell me if the all piece (its seems like a little car) on the 5:33min is assembled with a plate? I pulled it out and it was separated
Hello and thank you for your in-depth video. I have a Suzuki Vinson 500 and it had Sat without being started for about 2 years. I wanted to get it running again so I bought a carb rebuild kit, tore the carb off and apart and cleaned it, as well as replaced all the jets, springs, and gasket and then reinstalled it. I then replaced the air filter, spark plug, and oil/oil filter. New battery as well. After doing all this, I then completely drained the old fuel and replaced it with 93 oct. When I try to start it now, it'll start but will only continue to run as long as the choke is on. No matter how long I warm it up for, as soon as I try to slowly turn the choke off, it'll stall. It will do the same if I even just touch the throttle as well. I'm not extremely well versed in engine repair and this is actually my first carb clean/rebuild, so I'm assuming I did something wrong when I reassembled the carb. Can you please give me any ideas as to what I can do to maybe adjust something in or on the carb to fix the issue please? Thanks for your time.
shawn Murphy Thanks for checking out our video. What your describing could be caused by a couple different things. Its definitely a carb related issue. It could be because your float is not adjusted right and not allowing enough fuel into the carb. A lot of times after a carb has been sitting, a jet or one of the ports will get clogged again by something that was missed. I would check you jets again and make sure that they are clear and see if that makes any difference. Let us know what you find, so we can get you back on the trail!
I am going to say yes need to get a meter on the plug and get the correct volts. Just need to know what lead goes where. Positive to the center pin and neg to one of the pins o the side?
so, I didn't take mine completely apart like in the video, but still blasted it with carb cleaner, should I be worried about the inner diaphragms seals been compromised?
Do any carb rebuild kits include the Accelerator Pump and Air-cut diaphrams ? mine look like the ones in the video...destroyed from carb cleaner.. Do I have to buy OEM ones separately?
The carb cleaner will generally cause any piece of rubber to swell to a point, it's just those two diaphragm pieces are thinner and are usually ruined if they get a lot of carb cleaner on them. You want to use the cleaner sparingly and try not to spray the o-rings.
What happens if I unbolted the throttle position sensor off the side of the carby? Did I jeopardize anything? Or can I just bolt it back on and it should be fine?
George S If you can't remove it safely without stripping the head of the screw, there are impact driver tools you can buy. The impact driver will come with multiple size screwdriver tips so you can select the best size for the job. We sell a Tusk Impact Driver and its $9.99. Check it out.. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/32614/Tusk-Impact-Driver
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Update: I didn't need to battle the screw after all. The float needle was stuck. Watching the vid I knew instantly when you lifted the floats and the needle came out too. I ordered a new one plus a Tusk fuel screw and a OEM manual from you guys and I'm up and running! Great service, prices and videos. Thanks again.
Ran into a little problem when I put the slide valve plate back in *with a new o ring* it has play back and forth so when I give it gas I can hear it chatter. What am I doing wrong?
Yea, sorry about that. 2-3 turns out is where you should be at with the fuel mixture screw. If you need anymore turns than that you'll want to rejet your bike.
i really need help my bike 05 rmz 250 bike fires when i let off the throttle and i got a aftermarket header pipe with i think stock jetting would it be the jetting that is causing the back fire if so do i go richer or leaner or could it be my timing chain cause my bike is kinda hard to start and its board 40 over. Thanks
Could tell me the number of turns of the fuel(pilot) screw,i install aJD Jetting Jet Kit and i do a airbox mod, and my crf250x used to turn on the first without problems, now discharge the battery and does not start, I have to kick 3 minutes to work, what can i do?
I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw before rotationg the control arm and now the whole arm is stuck and i can't push it back down, How do you fix this?
I have one that runs great for about 10 - 30 seconds then runs terrible and bogs down and barely idles, and it gets worse if I give it throttle but wont quite die no matter what. This was a problem Before and after I cleaned the carb.
starfee990 It's most likely glued and press fit into the body of the carburetor and with it being plastic it's likely to break if you try to remove it. I would just remove the hoses from it and clean that ports out the best you can.
+SlammedBeretta To know whether or not the float is set correctly.. grab the drain hose and raise it up along the carburetor. Loosen the drain screw out and the fuel level should line up pretty close to the top of the bottom bowl.. where it meets the bowl gasket.
Thanks for this great video 👌👌 , I follow step by step your instructions for my outlaw 525s and everything was so easy. Thanks again, you saved me at least $300 , that's how much they charge me for a full service like this at the shop. 🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝. By the way I thought you did only powder coating but I see you are a complete MacGyver .Lol. ☝️☝️☝️
Hello, Iv just received a second hand 39mm FCR to go on a honda air cooled FMX650 lump (same as an xr650), It looks identical to this one. Iis from an 05 bike, looks in good condition but definitely been apart due to the rounded off screws on the bowl. If you don't mind I have a couple of questions... Firstly I have already ordered an upgrade an upgrade accelerator pump spring, is it a good idea to fit it? The one in it does look 'tired' to me. And is there any other internal parts worth changing out at the same time Second, I am looking on ebay at an adjustable leak jet but wondered what it does and if it is something worth fitting while rebuilding the bike, if it counts for anything I'm fitting a 10.5:1 piston, forged conrod, stage1 cam and Kibblewhite complete rebuild kit. Thirdly, and lastly, I am documenting the build as the Ugly Duckling Project and as such want to film the carb rebuild. I was going to use your video as a guide in the background, would you mind me doing this? I will give FULL credit as to what I am following and referring to while performing carb surgery lol Off topic, would you believe that the carb fitted directly onto the Honda intake rubber!! I mean the thing is of a Kwak, not only is it the perfect ID/OD but the locator tap that stops it spinning even fits directly into the notches on the rubber... I could not believe it =D.... As far as air intake goes it will be directly attached to a 150mm mushroom so won't be starved of air, which is a potential issues from what I gather if usng factory air boxes. Anyway, if your reading this thank you for taking the time and if you can answer the questions I would be over the moon. All the best Andy
Doberman Knives Honest, i would recommend you read up on some forums and see what other people have attempted on this bike. As far as the accelerator pump spring you should be fine. The adjustable leak jet i don't really think you'll need unless you are racing? But i've heard good things about them. Thanks for watching our video!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thank you for getting back to me, I have trawled the forums massively with regards to compression upgrades, cams, valves, con rods etc. And tried to find info on the carb but struggled to get the exact answers I was looking for. You have answered them for me though so I am grateful for that :) Thank you. And your video has helped me massively. Totally unrelated, for anyone reading this be careful buying second hand carbs, the one I bought after disassembly showed not only that the hot start cable is jammed in like a b@stard, but underneath the accelerator pump was pitted with corrosion. My guess would be that a channel in the pump could be blocked. It will clean up though thankfully. Thanks again RMATVMC
Great video! Thanks. Looks like I'm going to have to breakdown and buy an air compressor. What would suggest as the smallest (least expensive) size compressor I should looking at. I'm just a backyard hobby type of "mechanic"... I have an old Honda TA200 4 stroke that I'm restoring as a hobby... Thanks for any insights you can share!
I have a 10 gallon craftsman oiled air compressor. Reasonably cheap and does a fantastic job. I cleaned the same carb today. And I even use it for sand blasting
@@tomm.149 tomorrow morning I can. Getting ready for bed soon. I have 2 videos on the air compressor on my channel. One is an unboxing. And another is an oil change
hey, I'm wondering if this will finally start my ATV because I've changed the spark plug, ignition coil, starter solenoid relay, magneto starter coil, and battery but nothing and when I turn on the gas switch gas won't leak even after 30 min. do o have to clean or buy a new carb....Help!!!
+raptor _350 It could be that you need to check the valves on it? make sure they're in spec. But i would start with cleaning the carb. first. Let us know how it goes!
I have a 2008 KTM 250 XCF, the bike only runs when the choke is fully open, as soon as I turn the choke off the bike dies, even after letting the bike warm up for a few minutes. I am thinking that maybe one of the jets is plugged up. Do you think that cleaning the carburetor thoroughly will help the bike run with no choke. It has a brand new K&N air Filter so I know that's not the issue. Any help would be appreciated
+Brian Schooping Yes, definitely. Also, check how many turns out you're at on the air fuel mixture screw as well. Let us know what ya find out?! Thanks for the question
+Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thanks for the video and the reply. It helped a lot, the bike seems to be running better now and will run without choke. I found that the fuel screw was 4 turns out, seems like a lot but the bike has high compression, unfortunately I'm not sure what the ratio is. What is your opinion on the fuel mixture?
+Brian Schooping Nice job. I would refer to your service manual for your specific bike.. but generally the manual recommends no more than 3 turns out. If you need to go past that, you would want to address your jetting and jet accordingly. I know there are some forums out there to help you dial in your jetting, but a main factor to jetting is the elevation that you're at as well.
+Otniel Vega I would refer to your service manual for your bike.. but we recommend no more than 3 turns out. If you need to go past that, you would want to address your jetting. Let us know what ya find out!
can anyone help got an 06 yz250f. first of all bike takes forever to start. bike is backfiring and hang idling. wont idle unless idle screw is adjusted pretty high. cleaned and replaced the jets. any other suggestions?
I've been having a problem with my 250 Raptor for a few years now. When it's in N or if I have the clutch in & I give it gas it's fine. When I put it in gear & start to take off, it slowly boggs out. I had a friend of mine who owned an ATV shop fix it & it happened again when he brought it back to me & I test drove it. He took it back, "fixed" it again & it was fine for a few rides. It happened so much that I just stopped riding it all together. Can you please tell me what could possibly causing this to happen? He said it was bad gas but it runs fine in N & when I have the clutch in. I need to drain the gas & clean the carb sometime soon but I know that's not the issue. I'd apprecaite any suggestions. Thanks!
hey, i see this was a year ago.. but mine did the same thing. try taking the gas cap off and see if it works fine. if so the gas cap is not letting air into the tank, causing gas not to flow freely into the carb.
Hey Team, Thank you for making this video. I had issues with my Bike Carburetor. This Video gave me a good understanding about how to go ahead and clean the Carb, The Jets were blocked, once i fixed this my bike staring issue is fixed. :-) how do i get in touch with you over Email ? just in case i've any queries,
@ChennaKeshava KJ You can contact us here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Contact-Us We also have live chat available on our website: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
+Rocky Mountain ATV MC what would us DIYers do without people like the people at RMATV.. live chat motorcycle and atv info.... u guys just nailed it. At certain times i swear i would pay $5 for a pro mechanic to hear me out for a minute but chances are they listen to half of what u say and can tell u the problem!! its crazy bigs up at Rocky Mountain ATV
YeahWeRepTheSameSmartech Really cool to hear! Thanks for sharing your thoughts.. we love to hear them! We're here to help out the motorcycle community anyway we can :)
kurtis bardin You'll want to refer to your service manual for instructions specific to your bike but yes there is one place I know some manuals recommend a special grease for and that is the carb slide wheels.
Please Can anyone tell me why when I crank my fourwheeler all it does is rev very loud as if it were on full throttle and the exhaust gets flaming red from being hot
ugh a friend guided me with pulling my carbs for a clean , didn't finish disassembling it by the time he left. so for a solid week they've been off and he told me to study the shit out of manual, but reassembling it intimidating for me as a newbie. anyway you guys used carb cleaner in this video right? cant that damage the o rings? my friend emphasized to not apply carb cleaner to the o rings but my dad recommended I dont take them off. you didn't take them off. what gives
It is true that carb cleaner can break down the life of the rubber o-ring gaskets. If you wipe them off quickly you'll ok. There are only a couple to watch out for, but carb cleaner cleans the best or a brake cleaner. If you choose to take them off that's fine as well.
Hi, i have a very annoying problem with my honda cr85. if anyone can help me figure this problem out, it would be greatly: My bike has too much smoke coming out from the muffler. WAY too much, It has a hanging idle when i rev it up while its idling. (also while riding). i changed the spark plug to see if it would fix the problem but nothing. i adjusted the air screw to factory specs which is 2 turns out but it didnt make a difference. i even turned the airscrew out more than 3 turns and i didnt notice a difference. then i turned the air screw in till it seated lightly and didnt notice a difference. ironically, the bike didnt stall either time when the screw was too far out or too far in. i thought initially that this problem occured from using fuel from last year but it doesnt seem to be the case. it started happening when i was trail riding. i was going pretty slow so it mustve done something. then there was alot of smoke, and the bike stalled. i started it back up and rode home. i even replaced the spark plug but the problem is still there. i took the carb apart and took all the jets apart and used some carb cleaner. they were clean anyway. i also did notice when tipping the bike over slightly, fuel would leak from the carb. i diagnosed that problem as being a stuck floar bowl and fixed it. please please help me out with whats going on.
doomiz Depends on the experienced mechanic's wage he charges and parts he'll need to replace in the carburetor if any? But most experienced mechanics charge around 30-40$ an hour.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC cool (i hope i find some1 that will actually properly tune mine and not make it worse).Thnx for the input man greatly appreciated :)
I wouldn't recommend it, the brake cleaner is far more toxic when burned than carb cleaner and it's designed to simply degrease and then leave no residue behind. Carb Cleaner on the other hand is designed to break down and cut the varnish and other deposits the fuel leaves behind. It will leave a little residue for longer effectiveness. Both are hard on plastics and rubber but i tend to stick with using what the product was intended for.
Hey RM! i have a problem with my Kawasaki kx250F and the problem is the bike is backfireing like in this video (not my vid) ua-cam.com/video/A3jMlBywZDA/v-deo.html me and my dad has been adjusting the valves 4 times and changing piston and rings every time as the compression is al gone after just 2-4 hour of riding on the track. the 5th time we submitted the bike to a workshop and it did the same thing again after a few hours of riding... what can it be? why is it backfireing? why are the piston rings burned down after just 2-4 h on the track? may it be the carb jetting? or may it be valves in some strange way? or may it be the ignition? only thing i know is that the bike has been working corectly for the first 2 years of my own and that i have paid 1000$ for that "reparation" on that workshop and have been buying piston, rings, gaskets and shims for 620$ every time we adjusted the valves by our own. Im from sweden so i dont have the best writing skills in english ^^
Emil Sverin What year is your KX250F? Jetting or your Air/Fuel Mixture would be the first place to look for a backfire. As far as your loss of compression that could be caused by a number of different things and the backfire issue might be part of it. Have you checked the sealing surfaces of your valves? You could do a leakdown test to determine if that is the problem. It's hard to really isolate a problem without having the bike in front of me but start with the obvious and the process of elimination might be your best bet. Run side by side with the manual and make sure everything is within spec and functioning properly.
is a KX250F year 2009, i set the carb in part a few days ago and cleaned the whole carb, as i found the hotstart stuck in open position... so it may be why the bike runs in wrong fuel/air mix. but the bike wont start now as i have to change piston rings again to get my comp back XD we will see if it works! thanks for answear! =)
This was the best video ever. I've never taken anything on my bike off and repaired it. I actually got the carburetor off, cleaned it, and made the correct adjustments by following manual. My bike was bogging down while going full throttle. Now I can full throttle and keep going. Thanks for this video I would've never attempted due to not knowing what I was doing.
After my 250R was sitting around for a season, the bike would start, but then stop. Since cleaner and compressed air would not allow me to see through the hole that runs the length of the pilot jet, I had to resort to carefully insert a small copper wire through the length of the pilot jet. It took me 1-1/2 days in total to remove, clean, and reassemble, but the learning experience was well worth it. Next time will be a breeze. Thank you for the nice instructional video!
Nice work, glad the video helped!!
This is a great video, I wasn't confident stripping this carb down at all, but after watching this I stripped, cleaned and reassembled in a couple of hours. Thanks Guys :-)
yeah we easily ordered over $2000 dollars worth of stuff from your website, its the only site we use and I go out and tell all my friends about how fast shipping is and how easy it is to order stuff. No more putting your orders in someone elses hands when its so easy and simple to order parts yourself. I'm in love with your website.
Video is grade A. You did a very good job and anybody could clean a Carb using this video! Thanks a lot.
You are correct! Nice catch, we overlooked the float needle! Thanks! Yes the tip of the float needle can also swell and become useless if sprayed with carb cleaner.
The o rings for the float bowl? you spryaed it with carb cleaner and then didnt replace it.
If you're working on a carb from a Suzuki motorcycle, be sure to use a JIS screwdriver (Japanese Industrial Standard) and NOT a philips. They look identical (cross style screwdriver) but a philips will strip a JIS screw even if it appears to fit. Just about everyone who has a DR or DRZ motorcycle who tries to open the carb to clean the jets ends up stripping the screws for this reason. I learned this the hard way. You can replace the JIS screws with allen key head or regular philips screw (should be a M4 x 10 automotive screw on the float bowl assembly).
There are some decent videos for doing this on a VTX1300 but none as detailed as this, great video.
Thank you for the feedback. Glad to see you found it helpful.
Yep you'll definitely want to have your shop/ garage doors and windows wide open! Thanks for the tip
If the bike is hard to start i would check your valve clearances first. A lot of times that will cause the bike to be hard to start and can cause it to backfire. You can refer to our Valve Clearance video for instructions on how to do this. If your timing was off you would know, the bike wouldn't start and if it did you would definitely feel that something was off. Check clearances first and if that doesn't fix it look into jetting. Try adjusting the fuel screw and then move onto the jets...
Still commenting on a 2 year old video, that's how you can tell RM is here for us.
Hyra Crane 2 year's and rolling.. :) Thank you for your comment!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC np
Rocky Mountain ATV MC my yfz 450 sat for about 2 years without turning it on. Now im trying to turn it on but it won’t start at all. When i push the start button it don’t do anything and the temperature red light comes on as soon as i press the start button. Any ideas what is doing that?. Thanks
Try 7 yearrs now
That was a Great how to video!! I like how you explained where each of the circuits, bolts, and holes are located on the carburetor while your were spraying it down. It was really helpful when you would state what tools you were using when disconnecting pieces!! Have a Great day man
I'll add it to the list. The 2 stroke carbs are a little different but if you have a service manual for your bike it will show how to disassemble your carb and clean it. As long as it goes back together the same way it came apart you'll be fine
That's going to depend on how dirty and gummed up your carb is. If you've got a plugged jet or circuit clearing that up can make a world of difference! It can help with easier starting and help your bike idle and run like it should. This is basically to clean all the dirt and other stuff out of the carb and to make sure there's not anything plugged up in there.
@5:04 I tried praying carburetor cleaner down the fuel line and it does not squirt out the accelerator/throttle nozzle. How can I trouble shoot a possible clog?
This is literally the best how to I swear. Ive never had time to do the carb myself ive always had someone else doing it , but this time my wallet was empty so what the hell why not right? Followed every step in the video nd long behold the accelerator diaphragm was corroded bad I mean BAD!! Also my main nd starting jets most definitely need to be replaced. Leaving rusty liquid nd rust dust all over the place. Thank God I found out before anything else happened! Thanks much appreciated. ------Andrew
Andrew Ibarra Nice job! Thanks for the feedback man. Glad it helped!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thanks you guys taught me something no one else could. I have a quick question tho im tring to look for just the diaphragm but seems like no one has it. Is it called acceleration pump diaphragm or gasket? Any help appreciated ______Andrew
Andrew Ibarra What year, make and model is your bike? You can search for all OEM parts here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Its a 2006 kawasaki kx250f. You guys did it again man I just found it nd you have it in stock! I couldnt even get the other sites to understand me. Thank you so much! Fer sure a believer of RM now!
Thanks for the help. This worked great for my first time. I'm leaking gas, so i have to try again, but i wouldn't have been able to do anything if it wasn't for you! Thanks again!
They are not Phillips head screws they are JIS. A Phillips head screw driver will cam out if the screw is stiff. You see ruined screws on Japanese bikes all the time because of this. The little dot on the screw head is the give away.
Thanks for watching! and we're sorry to hear about your trouble! If you need you can find a parts list in your service manual or on the OEM diagrams of the carburetor so i would refer there to make sure you have all the parts! Good luck!
You bet! Thanks for watching!
At 5:04 you are spraying cleaner through the accelerator line. What is the part number for the brass fitting the cleaner comes out of.
To make sure you get the correct part, your best bet is to check the OEM parts finder for your bike and locate that brass piece. You can find OEM parts here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts
Could you guys PLEASE do a video with a 2 stroke? You have the best videos and all I cant find is a 2 stroke carb cleaning video.
I purchase from RM simply for these vids. Fantastic explanations.
please, could you tell me if the all piece (its seems like a little car) on the 5:33min is assembled with a plate? I pulled it out and it was separated
awesome video. ordered a rebuild kit from you and used this video to assist. Thanks for putting these how to videos together.
Hello and thank you for your in-depth video. I have a Suzuki Vinson 500 and it had Sat without being started for about 2 years. I wanted to get it running again so I bought a carb rebuild kit, tore the carb off and apart and cleaned it, as well as replaced all the jets, springs, and gasket and then reinstalled it. I then replaced the air filter, spark plug, and oil/oil filter. New battery as well. After doing all this, I then completely drained the old fuel and replaced it with 93 oct. When I try to start it now, it'll start but will only continue to run as long as the choke is on. No matter how long I warm it up for, as soon as I try to slowly turn the choke off, it'll stall. It will do the same if I even just touch the throttle as well.
I'm not extremely well versed in engine repair and this is actually my first carb clean/rebuild, so I'm assuming I did something wrong when I reassembled the carb. Can you please give me any ideas as to what I can do to maybe adjust something in or on the carb to fix the issue please?
Thanks for your time.
shawn Murphy Thanks for checking out our video. What your describing could be caused by a couple different things. Its definitely a carb related issue. It could be because your float is not adjusted right and not allowing enough fuel into the carb. A lot of times after a carb has been sitting, a jet or one of the ports will get clogged again by something that was missed. I would check you jets again and make sure that they are clear and see if that makes any difference. Let us know what you find, so we can get you back on the trail!
Thank you so much for your quick reply. I'll be sure to check them and let u know.
Thanks again,
Shawn
shawn Murphy Anytime man. We'll get it figured out.
I am going to say yes
need to get a meter on the plug and get the correct volts. Just need to know what lead goes where. Positive to the center pin and neg to one of the pins o the side?
Thanks rockymoutain for the info.
You will definitely be getting my money this summer lol...
Hi, can i apply this "tutorial" to a 2001 ktm exc400 carb?
so, I didn't take mine completely apart like in the video, but still blasted it with carb cleaner, should I be worried about the inner diaphragms seals been compromised?
Do any carb rebuild kits include the Accelerator Pump and Air-cut diaphrams ? mine look like the ones in the video...destroyed from carb cleaner..
Do I have to buy OEM ones separately?
How much does rocky mountain charge to rebuild a carburetor in Winchester KY
I lifted the throttle chap control arm without unscrewing it and now it won't go back down any tips?
Just to be sure, the O ring's and the float bowl seal are ok getting carb cleaner on them and not destroy them?
Great video btw.
The carb cleaner will generally cause any piece of rubber to swell to a point, it's just those two diaphragm pieces are thinner and are usually ruined if they get a lot of carb cleaner on them. You want to use the cleaner sparingly and try not to spray the o-rings.
What happens if I unbolted the throttle position sensor off the side of the carby? Did I jeopardize anything? Or can I just bolt it back on and it should be fine?
How do you safely remove the throttle shaft screw for a second cleaning after it has been secured with medium thread locker?
George S If you can't remove it safely without stripping the head of the screw, there are impact driver tools you can buy. The impact driver will come with multiple size screwdriver tips so you can select the best size for the job. We sell a Tusk Impact Driver and its $9.99. Check it out.. www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/32614/Tusk-Impact-Driver
Thanks for your response. I will give that a try! Great videos btw.
George S Good to hear man! Hope that works out for you. Thanks for watching
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Update: I didn't need to battle the screw after all. The float needle was stuck. Watching the vid I knew instantly when you lifted the floats and the needle came out too. I ordered a new one plus a Tusk fuel screw and a OEM manual from you guys and I'm up and running! Great service, prices and videos. Thanks again.
Another option (genius) is to heat up the screw with a soldering iron.
What about the spring? There was a spring that came out with one of the jets and don't remember where it goes
Ran into a little problem when I put the slide valve plate back in *with a new o ring* it has play back and forth so when I give it gas I can hear it chatter. What am I doing wrong?
Great video! It helped me with my first carb cleaning by myself!
really wish you would have told me to count the ammount of turns on the air fuel screw befor hand.. I have no idea how to set that
Yea, sorry about that. 2-3 turns out is where you should be at with the fuel mixture screw. If you need anymore turns than that you'll want to rejet your bike.
I'm stuck getting the carb off my quad. What am I missing to get the throttle cable disconnected?
if u clean the carb. does the bike go better? does it work better?
i really need help my bike 05 rmz 250 bike fires when i let off the throttle and i got a aftermarket header pipe with i think stock jetting would it be the jetting that is causing the back fire if so do i go richer or leaner or could it be my timing chain cause my bike is kinda hard to start and its board 40 over. Thanks
Where does the little spring come from?
Could tell me the number of turns of the fuel(pilot) screw,i install aJD Jetting Jet Kit and i do a airbox mod, and my
crf250x used to turn on the first without problems, now discharge the
battery and does not start, I have to kick 3 minutes to work, what can i do?
I didn't remove the throttle shaft screw before rotationg the control arm and now the whole arm is stuck and i can't push it back down, How do you fix this?
Does anybody know, if in addition to fuel and pouring fuel stabilizer affect the plastic interior parts, of the carburetor?
I rebuilt my Carburetor on my 03 Yamaha Kodiak 400 4x4
I have one that runs great for about 10 - 30 seconds then runs terrible and bogs down and barely idles, and it gets worse if I give it throttle but wont quite die no matter what. This was a problem Before and after I cleaned the carb.
I need to replace the top and bottom gasket on my carb. Do I need to use sealant on them or just put the gaskets in dry?
@MotoJ90 Install dry.
sorry iam brazilian and dont understand what you talk at 10:57... the white plastic spacer? what is the correct name, u can write here? thanks!
Yamaha calls it a: PLATE
Part# 5JG-14346-00-00
thanks so much.. very good vid. cheers
Mauricio Freisleben
Seja bem-vindo
Can I use brake spray cleaner for this?
You can yes. Be cautious of where you're applying it like around o-rings and gaskets, can damage the rubber gaskets
Alright. Thanks for replying and thanks for the informative video! Cheers!
Anytime 4ndR3w!
You can always use regular gas
Thanks for the video.
How can i remove the plastic air vent hose joint that looks like a T ,just beside the hot star knob?
starfee990 It's most likely glued and press fit into the body of the carburetor and with it being plastic it's likely to break if you try to remove it. I would just remove the hoses from it and clean that ports out the best you can.
Do you guys ever measure the float height, also whats a good indicator that the float is not set correctly. Thanks for the great videos.
+SlammedBeretta To know whether or not the float is set correctly.. grab the drain hose and raise it up along the carburetor. Loosen the drain screw out and the fuel level should line up pretty close to the top of the bottom bowl.. where it meets the bowl gasket.
Thanks for this great video 👌👌 , I follow step by step your instructions for my outlaw 525s and everything was so easy. Thanks again, you saved me at least $300 , that's how much they charge me for a full service like this at the shop. 🤝🤝🤝🤝🤝. By the way I thought you did only powder coating but I see you are a complete MacGyver .Lol. ☝️☝️☝️
Glad it helped you out and saved you some $$$! Appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching.
Great video, thank you
Can you guys do one for a YFZ 450 my carb is not the same at all
Hello, Iv just received a second hand 39mm FCR to go on a honda air cooled FMX650 lump (same as an xr650), It looks identical to this one. Iis from an 05 bike, looks in good condition but definitely been apart due to the rounded off screws on the bowl. If you don't mind I have a couple of questions...
Firstly I have already ordered an upgrade an upgrade accelerator pump spring, is it a good idea to fit it? The one in it does look 'tired' to me. And is there any other internal parts worth changing out at the same time
Second, I am looking on ebay at an adjustable leak jet but wondered what it does and if it is something worth fitting while rebuilding the bike, if it counts for anything I'm fitting a 10.5:1 piston, forged conrod, stage1 cam and Kibblewhite complete rebuild kit.
Thirdly, and lastly, I am documenting the build as the Ugly Duckling Project and as such want to film the carb rebuild. I was going to use your video as a guide in the background, would you mind me doing this? I will give FULL credit as to what I am following and referring to while performing carb surgery lol
Off topic, would you believe that the carb fitted directly onto the Honda intake rubber!! I mean the thing is of a Kwak, not only is it the perfect ID/OD but the locator tap that stops it spinning even fits directly into the notches on the rubber... I could not believe it =D.... As far as air intake goes it will be directly attached to a 150mm mushroom so won't be starved of air, which is a potential issues from what I gather if usng factory air boxes.
Anyway, if your reading this thank you for taking the time and if you can answer the questions I would be over the moon.
All the best
Andy
Doberman Knives Honest, i would recommend you read up on some forums and see what other people have attempted on this bike. As far as the accelerator pump spring you should be fine. The adjustable leak jet i don't really think you'll need unless you are racing? But i've heard good things about them. Thanks for watching our video!
Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thank you for getting back to me, I have trawled the forums massively with regards to compression upgrades, cams, valves, con rods etc. And tried to find info on the carb but struggled to get the exact answers I was looking for. You have answered them for me though so I am grateful for that :) Thank you. And your video has helped me massively. Totally unrelated, for anyone reading this be careful buying second hand carbs, the one I bought after disassembly showed not only that the hot start cable is jammed in like a b@stard, but underneath the accelerator pump was pitted with corrosion. My guess would be that a channel in the pump could be blocked. It will clean up though thankfully. Thanks again RMATVMC
Great video! Thanks. Looks like I'm going to have to breakdown and buy an air compressor. What would suggest as the smallest (least expensive) size compressor I should looking at. I'm just a backyard hobby type of "mechanic"... I have an old Honda TA200 4 stroke that I'm restoring as a hobby... Thanks for any insights you can share!
I have a 10 gallon craftsman oiled air compressor. Reasonably cheap and does a fantastic job. I cleaned the same carb today. And I even use it for sand blasting
@@JGsgarage_unboxings Thanks. Can you share the model number?
@@tomm.149 tomorrow morning I can. Getting ready for bed soon. I have 2 videos on the air compressor on my channel. One is an unboxing. And another is an oil change
Hey I looked and can't find a number on the unit itself. It was probably on the box it came in. Sorry
@@JGsgarage_unboxings Thanks just the same.
Thank you and thanks for the tip! Yeah definitely avoid getting this stuff on the skin!
Is that Cameron Niemela??
What is that electronic thing on it? What does it do?
Great vid. Any chance of doing a KTM four stroke carb?
I cleaned the carb put everything back correctly but not she won’t start, I tried adjusting the idle screw and nothing
I have a very small o ring and washer that I have no idea where they came from. Anybody know?
This is a yfz450 carburetor right? Ima noob to cleaning carburetors
Nice!
I recently cleaned my carb too
hey, I'm wondering if this will finally start my ATV because I've changed the spark plug, ignition coil, starter solenoid relay, magneto starter coil, and battery but nothing and when I turn on the gas switch gas won't leak even after 30 min. do o have to clean or buy a new carb....Help!!!
+raptor _350 Hi. What year make model of ATV are you working on?
+Rocky Mountain ATV MC 06 Yamaha raptor 350
+raptor _350 It could be that you need to check the valves on it? make sure they're in spec. But i would start with cleaning the carb. first. Let us know how it goes!
+Rocky Mountain ATV MC OK thanks
I have a 2008 KTM 250 XCF, the bike only runs when the choke is fully open, as soon as I turn the choke off the bike dies, even after letting the bike warm up for a few minutes. I am thinking that maybe one of the jets is plugged up. Do you think that cleaning the carburetor thoroughly will help the bike run with no choke. It has a brand new K&N air Filter so I know that's not the issue. Any help would be appreciated
+Brian Schooping Yes, definitely. Also, check how many turns out you're at on the air fuel mixture screw as well. Let us know what ya find out?! Thanks for the question
+Rocky Mountain ATV MC Thanks for the video and the reply. It helped a lot, the bike seems to be running better now and will run without choke. I found that the fuel screw was 4 turns out, seems like a lot but the bike has high compression, unfortunately I'm not sure what the ratio is. What is your opinion on the fuel mixture?
+Brian Schooping Nice job. I would refer to your service manual for your specific bike.. but generally the manual recommends no more than 3 turns out. If you need to go past that, you would want to address your jetting and jet accordingly. I know there are some forums out there to help you dial in your jetting, but a main factor to jetting is the elevation that you're at as well.
What about the middle body?
how many turns i have to do it on the fuel screw to letf on the original setting?
+Otniel Vega I would refer to your service manual for your bike.. but we recommend no more than 3 turns out. If you need to go past that, you would want to address your jetting. Let us know what ya find out!
If you spray carb cleaner on a o ring or gasket, just put it in a bottle of cold water for a few minutes then will go back to normal
Do u have to put thread locker?
No
If you don't want that screw to vibrate loose on you while you're out trail riding I would say yes.
What if i put carb cleaner on the L ring what do i do
can anyone help got an 06 yz250f. first of all bike takes forever to start. bike is backfiring and hang idling. wont idle unless idle screw is adjusted pretty high. cleaned and replaced the jets. any other suggestions?
Bad rings maybe
I've been having a problem with my 250 Raptor for a few years now. When it's in N or if I have the clutch in & I give it gas it's fine. When I put it in gear & start to take off, it slowly boggs out. I had a friend of mine who owned an ATV shop fix it & it happened again when he brought it back to me & I test drove it. He took it back, "fixed" it again & it was fine for a few rides. It happened so much that I just stopped riding it all together. Can you please tell me what could possibly causing this to happen? He said it was bad gas but it runs fine in N & when I have the clutch in. I need to drain the gas & clean the carb sometime soon but I know that's not the issue. I'd apprecaite any suggestions. Thanks!
hey, i see this was a year ago.. but mine did the same thing. try taking the gas cap off and see if it works fine. if so the gas cap is not letting air into the tank, causing gas not to flow freely into the carb.
The float needle also swells and is ruined if sprayed with carb cleaner!
Hey Team, Thank you for making this video. I had issues with my Bike Carburetor.
This Video gave me a good understanding about how to go ahead and clean the Carb, The Jets were blocked, once i fixed this my bike staring issue is fixed. :-)
how do i get in touch with you over Email ? just in case i've any queries,
@ChennaKeshava KJ You can contact us here: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Contact-Us
We also have live chat available on our website: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/
+Rocky Mountain ATV MC what would us DIYers do without people like the people at RMATV.. live chat motorcycle and atv info.... u guys just nailed it. At certain times i swear i would pay $5 for a pro mechanic to hear me out for a minute but chances are they listen to half of what u say and can tell u the problem!! its crazy bigs up at Rocky Mountain ATV
YeahWeRepTheSameSmartech Really cool to hear! Thanks for sharing your thoughts.. we love to hear them! We're here to help out the motorcycle community anyway we can :)
so no oil or grease needed or recomended on any part of the carb??
kurtis bardin You'll want to refer to your service manual for instructions specific to your bike but yes there is one place I know some manuals recommend a special grease for and that is the carb slide wheels.
Please Can anyone tell me why when I crank my fourwheeler all it does is rev very loud as if it were on full throttle and the exhaust gets flaming red from being hot
Neutral?
zach vinson you probably need to adjust the fuel flow screw on the side of the carb
ugh a friend guided me with pulling my carbs for a clean , didn't finish disassembling it by the time he left. so for a solid week they've been off and he told me to study the shit out of manual, but reassembling it intimidating for me as a newbie.
anyway you guys used carb cleaner in this video right? cant that damage the o rings? my friend emphasized to not apply carb cleaner to the o rings but my dad recommended I dont take them off. you didn't take them off. what gives
It is true that carb cleaner can break down the life of the rubber o-ring gaskets. If you wipe them off quickly you'll ok. There are only a couple to watch out for, but carb cleaner cleans the best or a brake cleaner. If you choose to take them off that's fine as well.
See my recent comment above ^^
Hi, i have a very annoying problem with my honda cr85. if anyone can help me figure this problem out, it would be greatly:
My bike has too much smoke coming out from the muffler. WAY too much, It has a hanging idle when i rev it up while its idling. (also while riding). i changed the spark plug to see if it would fix the problem but nothing. i adjusted the air screw to factory specs which is 2 turns out but it didnt make a difference. i even turned the airscrew out more than 3 turns and i didnt notice a difference. then i turned the air screw in till it seated lightly and didnt notice a difference. ironically, the bike didnt stall either time when the screw was too far out or too far in. i thought initially that this problem occured from using fuel from last year but it doesnt seem to be the case. it started happening when i was trail riding. i was going pretty slow so it mustve done something. then there was alot of smoke, and the bike stalled. i started it back up and rode home. i even replaced the spark plug but the problem is still there. i took the carb apart and took all the jets apart and used some carb cleaner. they were clean anyway. i also did notice when tipping the bike over slightly, fuel would leak from the carb. i diagnosed that problem as being a stuck floar bowl and fixed it. please please help me out with whats going on.
Change your jet sizes and float height
Could a dirty Carb cause a loss of power?
very helpfull as iv just brought a wr :)
Thank you very much tacokiller!
Can i use wd 40 to for cleaning?
Thank You!!!
can i use break cleaner for it?
Wait. How am i supose to put that back to gather.
Great Video. Thank you.
Thank u, that really helped 👍👍
Very good video! Thanks a lot.
How much do mechanics charge for this? (just curious)
doomiz Depends on the experienced mechanic's wage he charges and parts he'll need to replace in the carburetor if any? But most experienced mechanics charge around 30-40$ an hour.
Rocky Mountain ATV MC cool (i hope i find some1 that will actually properly tune mine and not make it worse).Thnx for the input man greatly appreciated :)
doomiz Anytime sir! Thanks for watching
Rocky Mountain ATV MC I change 45.00 a hr
No probs.
I wouldn't recommend it, the brake cleaner is far more toxic when burned than carb cleaner and it's designed to simply degrease and then leave no residue behind. Carb Cleaner on the other hand is designed to break down and cut the varnish and other deposits the fuel leaves behind. It will leave a little residue for longer effectiveness. Both are hard on plastics and rubber but i tend to stick with using what the product was intended for.
Hey RM! i have a problem with my Kawasaki kx250F and the problem is the bike is backfireing like in this video (not my vid) ua-cam.com/video/A3jMlBywZDA/v-deo.html me and my dad has been adjusting the valves 4 times and changing piston and rings every time as the compression is al gone after just 2-4 hour of riding on the track. the 5th time we submitted the bike to a workshop and it did the same thing again after a few hours of riding... what can it be? why is it backfireing? why are the piston rings burned down after just 2-4 h on the track? may it be the carb jetting? or may it be valves in some strange way? or may it be the ignition? only thing i know is that the bike has been working corectly for the first 2 years of my own and that i have paid 1000$ for that "reparation" on that workshop and have been buying piston, rings, gaskets and shims for 620$ every time we adjusted the valves by our own.
Im from sweden so i dont have the best writing skills in english ^^
Emil Sverin What year is your KX250F? Jetting or your Air/Fuel Mixture would be the first place to look for a backfire. As far as your loss of compression that could be caused by a number of different things and the backfire issue might be part of it. Have you checked the sealing surfaces of your valves? You could do a leakdown test to determine if that is the problem. It's hard to really isolate a problem without having the bike in front of me but start with the obvious and the process of elimination might be your best bet. Run side by side with the manual and make sure everything is within spec and functioning properly.
is a KX250F year 2009, i set the carb in part a few days ago and cleaned the whole carb, as i found the hotstart stuck in open position... so it may be why the bike runs in wrong fuel/air mix. but the bike wont start now as i have to change piston rings again to get my comp back XD we will see if it works! thanks for answear! =)
and i have runned with the same jetting al the time! can i be that i have to change jetting after a while or why would it be the problem anyway? =)
Had the same problem with my 09 kx250f. Rejetted it and it went away.
huh with the same jettsize? thanks fort reading my comment LMPimp2
Спасибо!!!
Why isn't he worried about the float bowl o-ring? He sprays carb cleaner all over it. I've always removed that o-ring before spraying.
sweet video👊
Thanks you. :)