Omg this thing is jammed I love it some would say that’s to much but this looks amazing thanks for the inspiration I’m now on a hunt for a lot of torches now great 😅
Nah, he's perfectly fine getting away with it. Hell you could even go 5 gallons. It all just depends on keeping up with the right chemicals, testing pH and what not, and making sure that you got the right light and flow.
You sound like me when it comes to remembering the "scientific" name of corals. Scientists: "this is a blah blah blah Zoanthid". Me: "this what this looks like to me. So I'm calling it this". 🤣😂🤣
Hey man, the tank looks great. I'm looking at those hammers and I want to get one like that and see if my clown hosts them. Hey, by any chance there is a way you can do a video of your sump pump? I think I have the same 29G tank as you and I'm looking to add a sump pump but I'm confused on where to start and what kind of pump to put. I was thinking of buying a cheap 10-20 gallon tank for the sump and putting acrylic dividers with some marine silicone. Add a skimmer, some bio balls, filtering sponges. If you can shed some light that would be awesome.
I used a 15g sump (24x12x12) with single divider that's made of 2 panels about 2" apart - just wide enough to fit a row of marinepure blocks in-between. For the pump - it's got a jebao dcp-3000. I also have a very similar setup with a frag 24x24x12 frag flat and a DCP-3500. I drive a manifold with a UV and a GFO/carbon reactor attached on both of those setups, so not all the flow is dedicated to the tank. They actually are very similar setups - except one is a flat and one is a display tank - both use kalk. have a similar sump/skimmer/returnpump, and similar total volume. The flat is my coral quarantine tank. I'll see if i have time to do a video on this at some point
@@shane6450 it's not really about parameters being perfect. but i'm also not going to say whether you should or shouldn't chase parameters - the ocean is very stable, and stability is good. however - we aren't entirely simulating the ocean - we're almost trying to be better than the ocean - fish and corals have candy falling from the sky, we're using lights with peak spectrums amplified in the ranges that corals like, etc, etc. I would say its a myth that things have to be perfect - but I'd also say there's just as much nonsense around "parameter chasing" - on both sides of the argument, actually. this tank generally runs higher nitrate, phosphate, maybe like 20-40 nitrate, 0.1 - 0.2 phos. I do some other stuff, like aminos, heavy feedings, coral foods mixed in, mostly frozen foods that i feed, etc, etc. It's just my method, garbage in, garbage out, i have never been one of those people doing the "ultra low nutrient system" or other such BRS fads, either. high nutrients can be a good way to grow things faster, as can be high light, but if you can get both in balance that's when you will maximize growth. ultimately i only had this tank in this "ideal" state for so long, it's still not bad right now, definitely not as packed as it was here, but of course, it had to be pruned, some things didn't last, etc, etc, as it goes in this hobby, it will humble the best of us. lastly, the big thing that is sort of my "trademark method" on this tank - i chase ph. Some people say dont do that, well, look to the latest actual scientific data, there's a very interesting thread on R2R i could show you about this, but basically, it amounts to: a stable ph provides a more stable carbonate concentration than a stable alk does. Of course, you still need a stable alk to maintain a stable ph - but alk is not the number to chase - PH, actually is. This tank runs kalk - controlled by a PH cutoff of 8.4, when above 8.4, it doses straight RO - when below 8.4, it uses the other dosing head to dose the RO through my kalk-stirrer instead. Right now i'm holding at an average of 8.38, with a maximum deviation of -.15/+0.05, so it'll peak/valley to 8.25 - 8.45, but a majority of the time it's in the 8.30-8.40 range. I have a friend who, inspired by this, does similar to my setup, but rather than using kalk, he's doing a more traditional 2 or 3 part style dosing, but he's basically got two parts for alk instead, and based on PH - he doses sodium hydroxide (lye/caustic soda) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), to similarly control ph. I think this setup is probably more sensible on a larger tank. It gets harder to use kalk by itself on larger systems, you can push it to its limits by purposely increasing evaporation to dose more kalk, and you can also vinegar spike the RO water to increase kalk concentration - but ultimately it runs into a wall, my friends method isn't a bad idea, or you could run kalk + calcium reactor - I may be trying that on my new large system.
It's probably bacterial of some sort. Bacterial infections are like the achilles heel of euphyllia. Cipro and/or oxolonic acid look to be promising treatments, you can read up on the forums the various things people try. There's also certain species that just never live in my experience - the "purple" torches for example.
what remained was moved into the new 120g w/roller mat setup, which is basically an upscaled, improved version of this system. sadly, a lot of euphyllia was lost due to an infection that started after adding that gold hammer (on the bottom left), also just neglect and life happening and what not. Frankly, I often jump from hobby to hobby, and i'm a bit in "maintenance-only" mode with my reefs, while other hobbies are taking precedence. i'm just glad I still have my potters angel (from this tank) among a few other things... There's a lot of research lately about oxolonic acid, KFC dip, etc, etc, but frankly, even tidal gardens reported that long-term euphyllia farming is difficult, mostly for this very reason. I'm debating where to go next because of a lot of these challenges, I was also doing well with NPS in my other tank at the time, but the mainstream avenues of this hobby have definitely started to wear thin on me. I do still firmly believe that there's a lot related to flow, but I'm now also convinced that some people are just getting sick corals with infections, and no amount of flow is going to help you there. Similar is theorized about elegance corals coming in sick.
@@LXXero ok thanx for the update. With my years of dealing with corals, I can say I have been on the good side of getting and keeping healthy corals. I'm a LPS guy ( i like the movement). Hopefully we get an update of your recent setup
@@oofpokemon5275 dosing is a plus but it isn't necessary. I sometimes fed brine nd mysis but the main thing is having all parameters in check. Nd having some nitrate and po4 present. Too clean of water wasn't optimum for me. My corals showed the best colors and fullness when both were present
@@oofpokemon5275i fed a ton of stuff all at once, I think i did another video of my feeding routine at the time, but it was really a shotgun approach, and it was pretty labor intensive, i was feeding like 4-5 different types of frozen food daily plus powders, etc. this tank ran off kalk
Nice looking little tank bro! Those torches are loving life!!
Nice potters angle,tank looks good too.
Damn that some thick coral growth
Nice video and good looking tank
Oh man, this tank is amazing reef, I'm Brazilian aquarist. I'm your fan, your channel always help me. 👏✌️✌️✌️
Omg this thing is jammed I love it some would say that’s to much but this looks amazing thanks for the inspiration I’m now on a hunt for a lot of torches now great 😅
Wow. I dream of getting my tank to look like that.
Absolutely beautiful tank.
Good vid m8
Beautiful reef 🪸 tank the fish and coral are happy and healthy bravo 👏
YOU NEED A BIGGER TANK!!! But GREAT CORAL🙌🙌🙌
Nah, he's perfectly fine getting away with it. Hell you could even go 5 gallons. It all just depends on keeping up with the right chemicals, testing pH and what not, and making sure that you got the right light and flow.
You sound like me when it comes to remembering the "scientific" name of corals.
Scientists: "this is a blah blah blah Zoanthid".
Me: "this what this looks like to me. So I'm calling it this".
🤣😂🤣
Lol that's a fully bro!
haha, was adding some insight to an R2R conversation I was having.
@@LXXero lol well got to see again with lights on
Hey man, the tank looks great. I'm looking at those hammers and I want to get one like that and see if my clown hosts them. Hey, by any chance there is a way you can do a video of your sump pump? I think I have the same 29G tank as you and I'm looking to add a sump pump but I'm confused on where to start and what kind of pump to put. I was thinking of buying a cheap 10-20 gallon tank for the sump and putting acrylic dividers with some marine silicone. Add a skimmer, some bio balls, filtering sponges. If you can shed some light that would be awesome.
I used a 15g sump (24x12x12) with single divider that's made of 2 panels about 2" apart - just wide enough to fit a row of marinepure blocks in-between.
For the pump - it's got a jebao dcp-3000. I also have a very similar setup with a frag 24x24x12 frag flat and a DCP-3500. I drive a manifold with a UV and a GFO/carbon reactor attached on both of those setups, so not all the flow is dedicated to the tank. They actually are very similar setups - except one is a flat and one is a display tank - both use kalk. have a similar sump/skimmer/returnpump, and similar total volume. The flat is my coral quarantine tank.
I'll see if i have time to do a video on this at some point
how is that blue acropora on the right/top called?
nice tank! what percentage do you put your mp10's at? reef crest?
They change modes throughout the day. They're set pretty low. Under 20%
What are your parameters and dosing that make your corals are so happy growing so much
It uses ph controlled kalk dosing. I just target around 8.4ph and don't really watch much else.
@@LXXero do I have to dose to achieve a tank like this?
@@shane6450 definitely
@@LXXero what do you recommend and all my parameters are perfect so would dosing extra hurt the corals? What should I do
@@shane6450 it's not really about parameters being perfect. but i'm also not going to say whether you should or shouldn't chase parameters - the ocean is very stable, and stability is good. however - we aren't entirely simulating the ocean - we're almost trying to be better than the ocean - fish and corals have candy falling from the sky, we're using lights with peak spectrums amplified in the ranges that corals like, etc, etc. I would say its a myth that things have to be perfect - but I'd also say there's just as much nonsense around "parameter chasing" - on both sides of the argument, actually.
this tank generally runs higher nitrate, phosphate, maybe like 20-40 nitrate, 0.1 - 0.2 phos. I do some other stuff, like aminos, heavy feedings, coral foods mixed in, mostly frozen foods that i feed, etc, etc. It's just my method, garbage in, garbage out, i have never been one of those people doing the "ultra low nutrient system" or other such BRS fads, either. high nutrients can be a good way to grow things faster, as can be high light, but if you can get both in balance that's when you will maximize growth. ultimately i only had this tank in this "ideal" state for so long, it's still not bad right now, definitely not as packed as it was here, but of course, it had to be pruned, some things didn't last, etc, etc, as it goes in this hobby, it will humble the best of us.
lastly, the big thing that is sort of my "trademark method" on this tank - i chase ph. Some people say dont do that, well, look to the latest actual scientific data, there's a very interesting thread on R2R i could show you about this, but basically, it amounts to: a stable ph provides a more stable carbonate concentration than a stable alk does. Of course, you still need a stable alk to maintain a stable ph - but alk is not the number to chase - PH, actually is. This tank runs kalk - controlled by a PH cutoff of 8.4, when above 8.4, it doses straight RO - when below 8.4, it uses the other dosing head to dose the RO through my kalk-stirrer instead. Right now i'm holding at an average of 8.38, with a maximum deviation of -.15/+0.05, so it'll peak/valley to 8.25 - 8.45, but a majority of the time it's in the 8.30-8.40 range.
I have a friend who, inspired by this, does similar to my setup, but rather than using kalk, he's doing a more traditional 2 or 3 part style dosing, but he's basically got two parts for alk instead, and based on PH - he doses sodium hydroxide (lye/caustic soda) or sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), to similarly control ph. I think this setup is probably more sensible on a larger tank. It gets harder to use kalk by itself on larger systems, you can push it to its limits by purposely increasing evaporation to dose more kalk, and you can also vinegar spike the RO water to increase kalk concentration - but ultimately it runs into a wall, my friends method isn't a bad idea, or you could run kalk + calcium reactor - I may be trying that on my new large system.
I feel like your corals grow really fast you got any tips?
My lps coral don’t grow.
My ph is to low is that the problem?
Maybe PH, but do you feed them? LPS love to eat
What species of angel do you have in that tank?
It's a potters. I've had it since 2017.
I have sps going strong but after a month or two my torches melt and die? Idk what I’m doing wrong
It's probably bacterial of some sort. Bacterial infections are like the achilles heel of euphyllia. Cipro and/or oxolonic acid look to be promising treatments, you can read up on the forums the various things people try. There's also certain species that just never live in my experience - the "purple" torches for example.
Do you still have this tank? Update vid maybe
what remained was moved into the new 120g w/roller mat setup, which is basically an upscaled, improved version of this system.
sadly, a lot of euphyllia was lost due to an infection that started after adding that gold hammer (on the bottom left), also just neglect and life happening and what not. Frankly, I often jump from hobby to hobby, and i'm a bit in "maintenance-only" mode with my reefs, while other hobbies are taking precedence. i'm just glad I still have my potters angel (from this tank) among a few other things...
There's a lot of research lately about oxolonic acid, KFC dip, etc, etc, but frankly, even tidal gardens reported that long-term euphyllia farming is difficult, mostly for this very reason. I'm debating where to go next because of a lot of these challenges, I was also doing well with NPS in my other tank at the time, but the mainstream avenues of this hobby have definitely started to wear thin on me. I do still firmly believe that there's a lot related to flow, but I'm now also convinced that some people are just getting sick corals with infections, and no amount of flow is going to help you there. Similar is theorized about elegance corals coming in sick.
@@LXXero ok thanx for the update. With my years of dealing with corals, I can say I have been on the good side of getting and keeping healthy corals. I'm a LPS guy ( i like the movement). Hopefully we get an update of your recent setup
@@HNiCDuke what did you dose at the time the torches were growing fast?
@@oofpokemon5275 dosing is a plus but it isn't necessary. I sometimes fed brine nd mysis but the main thing is having all parameters in check. Nd having some nitrate and po4 present. Too clean of water wasn't optimum for me. My corals showed the best colors and fullness when both were present
@@oofpokemon5275i fed a ton of stuff all at once, I think i did another video of my feeding routine at the time, but it was really a shotgun approach, and it was pretty labor intensive, i was feeding like 4-5 different types of frozen food daily plus powders, etc.
this tank ran off kalk