Just disassembled a 6R80 from a 2017 half ton 4x4, 5.0L. Overdrive (4,5,6) is smoked to the point that there is no friction material on any of the clutch plates in 4,5,6. I know that there are issues with the drum. I have pressure tested with the drum on the table and through the forward clutch upside down, on the pump stator/4,5,6 input shaft (also through the stator/selective shim/bearings in place just as it would be in the case) and I can’t even get a small air bubble to show up. The piston moves nice and smooth. Can’t figure out why that clutch might have burned up. Any ideas?
Bushings are super critical in this unit. Especially the ones in the stator. But your problem is in the valve body and possibly the solenoids. I put these kits in when I do one. Don't forget you will need the separator plate as well. Usually destroy it when you take it apart. Number will be on the plate, match it up. Sonnax sells them. Also sells the solenoids. You will need the band number off the old ones. www.sonnax.com/parts/5233-zip-kit transgo.com/product-details/6r80-gen2-shift-kit/ transgo.com/product-details/zf6-kit-no-tools/
Well you seem to be the only expert on youtube that has done 545rfe. I have the 65rfe (2012 ram), that will frequently stall when I put it in rev or drive after it warms up. Cold no issues. Once in gear it drives perfectly. Just stalls the second it engages reverse or drive, more often reverse. Occasionally if I come to a stop quick, it'll almost stall the engine, shudder, rpm dip. So it's tcc, how can I determine if its the converter itself, or pump tcc valves etc? No codes. Desired/actual pressures good.
After the problem arises disconnect the wiring from the transmission. If the problem goes away, you probably have a bad computer. Also check the computer grounds. If it does not, I would look at the pump. May have a cross leak there. Could try flat sanding it. I use the bench builders stone, can get it from Transtar or WIT. ua-cam.com/video/zMB_9BREujM/v-deo.html
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Well the stalling on engagement began after I replaced the cam/lifters (hemi tick), and I forgot to hook up the trans cooler lines during first startup (lost 4 quarts which I did not know, dipstick lied showed good after adding 1 quart!) So first test drive after cam job was 3 quarts low. Made it 10 feet in reverse and stalled, would not go in gear until I added fluid. Engine runs perfect, those head ground straps are in good shape. No ECM/TCM codes. Only symptoms are stall when put in reverse or drive (after warm up) and occasional shudder right before coming to a quick stop. Shifts/pulls great. Do you have cashapp, venmo, or zelle? I would like to pay you for a little consultation when I pull the trans. Just a few questions along the way, I won't drive you crazy.
@@wesleydeer889 No I don't. Go to my Instagram, easier to have a conversation there. Ask away and if need be you can post photos there also. Is it full of fluid now? Because that can cause those symptoms also. Plugged cooler or lines can cause it also.
Tom, I've seen this on other videos too but what is the purpose of taking out that snap ring 180 degrees from the ring openings? I know there must be a technical reason but my mind won't let me figure it out.
I was not in a particularly good mood that day to begin with. Normally these do not have that much damage. I believe this van had close to 500,000 on it, if I remember correctly. They do have lots of problems with that lead plate and they can be hard to get nowadays sometimes.
Just noticed I’ve been subscribed, but forgot to ring the bell. Look forward to more informative and detailed videos, great job
Thanks
Just disassembled a 6R80 from a 2017 half ton 4x4, 5.0L. Overdrive (4,5,6) is smoked to the point that there is no friction material on any of the clutch plates in 4,5,6. I know that there are issues with the drum. I have pressure tested with the drum on the table and through the forward clutch upside down, on the pump stator/4,5,6 input shaft (also through the stator/selective shim/bearings in place just as it would be in the case) and I can’t even get a small air bubble to show up. The piston moves nice and smooth. Can’t figure out why that clutch might have burned up. Any ideas?
Bushings are super critical in this unit. Especially the ones in the stator. But your problem is in the valve body and possibly the solenoids. I put these kits in when I do one. Don't forget you will need the separator plate as well. Usually destroy it when you take it apart. Number will be on the plate, match it up. Sonnax sells them. Also sells the solenoids. You will need the band number off the old ones. www.sonnax.com/parts/5233-zip-kit transgo.com/product-details/6r80-gen2-shift-kit/ transgo.com/product-details/zf6-kit-no-tools/
I'm about to attempt a rebuild on my 16 mustang gt e clutch bad I assume no 4-6. Great video.
Thanks. That or a stripped planet.
Gracias maestro tom x sus valiosos consejos
Thanks for watching.
Great video I enjoyed it 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for watching.
Well you seem to be the only expert on youtube that has done 545rfe. I have the 65rfe (2012 ram), that will frequently stall when I put it in rev or drive after it warms up. Cold no issues. Once in gear it drives perfectly. Just stalls the second it engages reverse or drive, more often reverse. Occasionally if I come to a stop quick, it'll almost stall the engine, shudder, rpm dip. So it's tcc, how can I determine if its the converter itself, or pump tcc valves etc? No codes. Desired/actual pressures good.
After the problem arises disconnect the wiring from the transmission. If the problem goes away, you probably have a bad computer. Also check the computer grounds. If it does not, I would look at the pump. May have a cross leak there. Could try flat sanding it. I use the bench builders stone, can get it from Transtar or WIT. ua-cam.com/video/zMB_9BREujM/v-deo.html
@@CurmudgeonTransmission Well the stalling on engagement began after I replaced the cam/lifters (hemi tick), and I forgot to hook up the trans cooler lines during first startup (lost 4 quarts which I did not know, dipstick lied showed good after adding 1 quart!)
So first test drive after cam job was 3 quarts low. Made it 10 feet in reverse and stalled, would not go in gear until I added fluid. Engine runs perfect, those head ground straps are in good shape. No ECM/TCM codes.
Only symptoms are stall when put in reverse or drive (after warm up) and occasional shudder right before coming to a quick stop. Shifts/pulls great.
Do you have cashapp, venmo, or zelle? I would like to pay you for a little consultation when I pull the trans. Just a few questions along the way, I won't drive you crazy.
@@wesleydeer889 No I don't. Go to my Instagram, easier to have a conversation there. Ask away and if need be you can post photos there also. Is it full of fluid now? Because that can cause those symptoms also. Plugged cooler or lines can cause it also.
Tom, I've seen this on other videos too but what is the purpose of taking out that snap ring 180 degrees from the ring openings? I know there must be a technical reason but my mind won't let me figure it out.
It is easier to get the snap ring out there.
Pa q no c lastime y salga el solarcito yo si lo veo bien no. C lo quito
Good job 👍
Thanks 👍
Tom, you looked awful upset with this trans. Should I avoid getting a F-150 that has this transmission?
I was not in a particularly good mood that day to begin with. Normally these do not have that much damage. I believe this van had close to 500,000 on it, if I remember correctly. They do have lots of problems with that lead plate and they can be hard to get nowadays sometimes.