Always a lesson learned . Thanks for your time and the knowledge you share. Most people with this type of building and troubleshooting skills don't want to share their knowledge or experience with an odd failure like this . Have been to school with your lessons on the 4r75w. Thanks again my friend!
Thank you for posting this video. Just overhauled 6R80 in a 15 Mustang with the same exact problem. Unfortunately I did not see It during the overhaul so I had to go back in it, but found your video and knew I was going to find a crack in the 456 drum, sure enough did!
Hello Hiram..... I really enjoy listening to all your videos because you take the time to explain (in detail from experience) with proper terminology all the possible problems to be aware of!! You are by far one of the best builders because you take alot of pride in what you do and strive to be the best!! Your customers are in good hands for sure!! I wish all professionals trades strived to be the best but alot of people cut corners and rip people off for lots of money which is a sad state of affairs for the consumer!! Kudo's to you my friend and keep up the "GREAT WORK" that you do!! You put alot of people that do videos to shame for sure!! Sincerely Tim D
Hiram, I can see you are really good with 6r80. Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80. Codes P0706,0707,0712,0715 I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2. We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem. Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens. Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change. After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear. We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it. What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home. Now I’m thinking torque converter too. Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans? Where would the fluid have come from? It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
Glad you are back. Missed your videos. And you show how to put them back together unlike some other channels. Why take your secrets to the grave with you? Makes no sense. Glad you share your knowledge with us all.
I have a 2011 f150 6R80 290000+ miles. New clutches, seals from WIT, oem front pump, torque converter and valve body. Problem I'm having is a squak noise on 3-4 and 6/4/5 to 3 down shift. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Also it feel like torque converter shutter under light acceleration 35-50 mph.. Thanks again
Excellent!! And you are right about road tests. Nobody drives exactly the same. I've even had to have the customer drive it so it would show up problems, and the way they drove it was not quite what the manufacturer had in mind. Bill
Yeah, we usually put them under different loads after any repairs. Just to make sure no problems will arise later down the line. We usually put about 30 miles before delivery. Just to make sure.
Mate, you saved SOOO much trouble you have no idea. Story: My PX Ford Ranger (Not US Ranger) had a transmission issue. Overheat, no lockup, lucky to make it home, 500km of towing at 80Kph then off to mechanic. “No worries! Gearbox rebuild at a specialist in Perth, Western Australia, 500km away- we’ll send them the box, they rebuild and we’ll put it back in!” $11kAu and it’s back. Transmission specialist said it was the worst they’ve seen, didn’t understand how it was so worn. Picked up the vehicle: “Bit rough as it’s learning mate!”. Well. I immediately suspected it was in need of a LOT of learning, as it was bumpy, weird changes etc. “Oh that’s the computer! We’ll reset it for you, it’s good, off you go again!”. Noooo it was NOT good, changing into first from 5th at 100Kph then neutral. Got the “incorrect rating in 5th” fault. Transmission specialist on phone assured the mechanic all was fine with his work, must be electronic. EVERYTHING was then reset, car taken by them to Ford dealer, fuel system overhauled, control modules changed, gear selector changed… nothing. I was starting to sweat, if it was an unrelated fault, I would be up for $$$$. I trawled UA-cam and found THIS!! I immediately sent it to the mechanic and they agreed, and told the transmission specialist to take the box back and “find a fault or they could keep it and refund the cash paid”. The transmission specialist took it apart and reluctantly did your test, and FOUND THE CRACK! All the clutches needed replacing again, my mechanic had spent 26hrs on it and over 400km of driving. They were pretty stoked to have seen your presentation. Buy you a beer or two, heck, a carton of them, if you’re ever in Western Australia!! Well done, really happy with you. Unbelievable to find this, and so well presented. Keep it up!! P.S. Unfortunately I don’t think the transmission specialist and my mechanic are friends now… as they figure out who is gonna sort the $3k of “problem solving” that went on!
I almost overlooked it. Being thorough is the key. First I determined to find out the missing gear and where the fault really is, then inspect the areas where the issues operate at. It narrow down the diagnosis.
I have the same transmission in my 2016 Mustang and it’s been shifting funny also. It will upshift so quickly that by the time you’re going 45-50 its in 6th gear.
My Gen 2 6R80 with only 1600 miles on it after a rebuild, flared 300rpm from a 5-6 gear shift while just cruising. When engaging into D from Park, the tranny goes into 2nd gear, and then 5th gear. This sequence takes as long as 7-8 seconds as well. No codes or wrench light. Reverse engages perfectly fine. I swapped a new valve body/leadframe, and no change.. I'm thinking something is going on with the forward (A) drum assembly???
When I was a tranny tech at ford I’ve actually seen that piston in overdrive cracked but it would only act up hot and it would fall on its face when going into fourth, tore it apart twice in order to find that problem
i have a problem of my 6r80 ford ranger 3.2 desiel engine if cold running is very good all shifting is good but if i reach the 85° to 92° heat and overtake another car i feel the car same horse inside
I have a question not directly related. At 12:08 I noticed the snap ring. I wonder if you would share the type and brand of pliers you use to remove this type of snap ring? I encounter this type rebuilding hydraulic cylinders and recently had a large one that my little pliers were not large enough nor supplied the force needed to open the snap ring enough to remove and replace it. I can find the large, ratcheting type that use a pin tip but not for this type snap ring. Or maybe any of your subscribers that might be able to help?? I have searched everywhere I know and the Knipex 45 21 200 is the closest I can find but I need longer handles.
Hi, I've got a 2016 F150 with 5.0 w/ 99k miles on it. My torque converter went out about 10k miles ago and I had it replaced. Transmission tech checked everything out while he was in there and said everything looked good. He replaced the fluid and filter also. Now, I've got the 5-3 "Squawk" happening. The first time it did it was shortly after the repair. Currently, just about everytime it shifts from 5 to 3 it squawks. I just ordered a tube of the XL-16 6R ATF Additive. In your experience, is the additive going to fix the Squawk for good? Trying to determine whether or not to trade it in. Thanks!
You're probably right, more common in different areas of town I suppose. Where there's a lot of stop and go traffic. I've noticed that on transmission with highway driving have more miles before repairs are needed.
Great catch for sure. That could have been easily missed and you be pulling the transmission back out. That really could get a guy go down a rabbit hole and get all turned around.
Yes indeed, that's where the intensive drive payed off fishing out the issue. Going directly to the affected components. In this case the Overdrive drum.
@@AutomaticTransmission I think that is what has gotten lost at a lot of the shops these days. Actually listening to the customer complaint and trying to really find the problem. I used to own semis and most mechanics working on big trucks don't even have a CDL. They scan it, unleash the parts cannon and push you out the shop as quick as possible hoping you make it a couple hundred miles down the road before the money light comes back on.
Depends on what you’re towing I guess! And over what, in what temperatures. Here in Australia they are used behind the less powerful 3.2 duratorque diesel, for 3.5 tonnes (metric) towing. But many would fit a modified cooler and heavier duty TC, plus bypass the thermostat that stops lower temperature flow to the cooler. However that’s for constant towing at 100°f +. Apart from factory faults and weak TC issue, I believe the box itself is ok. But with enough force and/or stupidity, I’m sure one could bust it!
Hello thank yoi for sharing this vidéo ! I wanted to know if this issue can cause à bumpy shifting only from 3rd to 4th ? Or if you have a cracked drum, it will have malfunction on multiple gear ? Regards
Very good catch and great effort showing it to us. I am positive many others would have missed this one.
Always a lesson learned . Thanks for your time and the knowledge you share. Most people with this type of building and troubleshooting skills don't want to share their knowledge or experience with an odd failure like this . Have been to school with your lessons on the 4r75w. Thanks again my friend!
Thank you for posting this video. Just overhauled 6R80 in a 15 Mustang with the same exact problem. Unfortunately I did not see It during the overhaul so I had to go back in it, but found your video and knew I was going to find a crack in the 456 drum, sure enough did!
Hello Hiram.....
I really enjoy listening to all your videos because you take the time to explain (in detail from experience) with proper terminology all the possible problems to be aware of!! You are by far one of the best builders because you take alot of pride in what you do and strive to be the best!! Your customers are in good hands for sure!! I wish all professionals trades strived to be the best but alot of people cut corners and rip people off for lots of money which is a sad state of affairs for the consumer!! Kudo's to you my friend and keep up the "GREAT WORK" that you do!! You put alot of people that do videos to shame for sure!! Sincerely Tim D
Thank you Tim.
You're very welcome!! Sincerely Tim D
When I started rebuilding again I subscribed to your channel, didn’t here from you for awhile, Welcome Back
Thanks brother, more to come.
You just saved my a$$. Thanks for posting.
Hiram, I can see you are really good with 6r80.
Glad I found your channel. I have a 15 transit 350 with 3.7. 6r80.
Codes P0706,0707,0712,0715
I have been having this vibration sound for a long time, I would describe it like a low bass sound, from big sound system. It comes and goes at any speed above prob 40mph. It will sometimes happen every few seconds and it last for a second or 2.
We now have 135k and it started 50k or so ago. I have taken it to several shops and they all say it’s tires or shocks or something and never fixed the problem.
Last week I was headed up in elevation on a road trip, no trailer. And I was noticing the rpm would bounce +\- 200, when the sound happens.
Then, the sound went away. Approx 50miles later I noticed fluid getting on my rear Windows. I kept driving and made it the next 100 miles to our destination. During the 100 miles, it didn’t ever shift down when pulling hills, it stayed in 6. Even if I manually tried selecting another gear, it wouldn’t allow me to change.
After getting into town, I shut it off and when restarted tried, it shifts hard to reverse and drive. It operated fine in R. But feels like I’m still starting in a higher gear.
We trailered it back to our town. Where I now have it and am ready to work on it.
What are your thoughts? I purchased: lead frame, case of fluid, filter, and it was all here by the time we got home.
Now I’m thinking torque converter too.
Or am I too far into it and should just bite bullet and order a trans?
Where would the fluid have come from?
It looks wet on bottom of bell housing…
Glad you are back. Missed your videos. And you show how to put them back together unlike some other channels. Why take your secrets to the grave with you? Makes no sense. Glad you share your knowledge with us all.
Exactly. Thanks for the comment.
Great catch.! Very informative video. Thanks again.
p.s. I thoroughly enjoy your videos and I'm glad to see you back on the YT!
Thanks brother
I have a 2011 f150 6R80 290000+ miles.
New clutches, seals from WIT, oem front pump, torque converter and valve body.
Problem I'm having is a squak noise on 3-4 and 6/4/5 to 3 down shift. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Also it feel like torque converter shutter under light acceleration 35-50 mph..
Thanks again
Also new bushings
That's not a really common issue but the torque converter does make that particular noise between the gears going into and out of lock up.
You need to warranty that torque converter
Excellent!! And you are right about road tests. Nobody drives exactly the same. I've even had to have the customer drive it so it would show up problems, and the way they drove it was not quite what the manufacturer had in mind.
Bill
Yeah, we usually put them under different loads after any repairs. Just to make sure no problems will arise later down the line. We usually put about 30 miles before delivery. Just to make sure.
Mate, you saved SOOO much trouble you have no idea. Story: My PX Ford Ranger (Not US Ranger) had a transmission issue. Overheat, no lockup, lucky to make it home, 500km of towing at 80Kph then off to mechanic. “No worries! Gearbox rebuild at a specialist in Perth, Western Australia, 500km away- we’ll send them the box, they rebuild and we’ll put it back in!” $11kAu and it’s back. Transmission specialist said it was the worst they’ve seen, didn’t understand how it was so worn. Picked up the vehicle: “Bit rough as it’s learning mate!”. Well. I immediately suspected it was in need of a LOT of learning, as it was bumpy, weird changes etc. “Oh that’s the computer! We’ll reset it for you, it’s good, off you go again!”. Noooo it was NOT good, changing into first from 5th at 100Kph then neutral. Got the “incorrect rating in 5th” fault. Transmission specialist on phone assured the mechanic all was fine with his work, must be electronic. EVERYTHING was then reset, car taken by them to Ford dealer, fuel system overhauled, control modules changed, gear selector changed… nothing. I was starting to sweat, if it was an unrelated fault, I would be up for $$$$. I trawled UA-cam and found THIS!! I immediately sent it to the mechanic and they agreed, and told the transmission specialist to take the box back and “find a fault or they could keep it and refund the cash paid”. The transmission specialist took it apart and reluctantly did your test, and FOUND THE CRACK! All the clutches needed replacing again, my mechanic had spent 26hrs on it and over 400km of driving. They were pretty stoked to have seen your presentation. Buy you a beer or two, heck, a carton of them, if you’re ever in Western Australia!! Well done, really happy with you. Unbelievable to find this, and so well presented. Keep it up!!
P.S. Unfortunately I don’t think the transmission specialist and my mechanic are friends now… as they figure out who is gonna sort the $3k of “problem solving” that went on!
Glad your issue got resolved.
@@AutomaticTransmission Well, really appreciate you taking the time to upload! May your future be smooth shifting under acceleration!
Hey Hiram :) Now that is sure a sneaky spot for that crack and you must have the eye sight of an eagle..
I almost overlooked it. Being thorough is the key. First I determined to find out the missing gear and where the fault really is, then inspect the areas where the issues operate at. It narrow down the diagnosis.
Yeah you had to get it warm up that's why it wasn't obvious. Love your channel
I have the same transmission in my 2016 Mustang and it’s been shifting funny also. It will upshift so quickly that by the time you’re going 45-50 its in 6th gear.
My Gen 2 6R80 with only 1600 miles on it after a rebuild, flared 300rpm from a 5-6 gear shift while just cruising. When engaging into D from Park, the tranny goes into 2nd gear, and then 5th gear. This sequence takes as long as 7-8 seconds as well. No codes or wrench light. Reverse engages perfectly fine. I swapped a new valve body/leadframe, and no change.. I'm thinking something is going on with the forward (A) drum assembly???
When I was a tranny tech at ford I’ve actually seen that piston in overdrive cracked but it would only act up hot and it would fall on its face when going into fourth, tore it apart twice in order to find that problem
What year vehicle was that transmission out of?
2013 F150 w/80k miles. Clunks into 2nd gear when shifting from first. Any opinions?
Thank you for sharing ... Very helpful
Wish we had a mechanic like u at our ford dealer.
i have a problem of my 6r80 ford ranger 3.2 desiel engine if cold running is very good all shifting is good but if i reach the 85° to 92° heat and overtake another car i feel the car same horse inside
Una pregunta sobre cambiar el conductor plate en esta trasmission se nesecita programar ?
I have a question not directly related. At 12:08 I noticed the snap ring. I wonder if you would share the type and brand of pliers you use to remove this type of snap ring? I encounter this type rebuilding hydraulic cylinders and recently had a large one that my little pliers were not large enough nor supplied the force needed to open the snap ring enough to remove and replace it. I can find the large, ratcheting type that use a pin tip but not for this type snap ring. Or maybe any of your subscribers that might be able to help?? I have searched everywhere I know and the Knipex 45 21 200 is the closest I can find but I need longer handles.
Snapon and Mac Tools have them. I'll post a video of them later.
very infirmative-- thank you so much.
Hi bro. I loose reverse on my 6R80 when is hot. I have not codes. Excuse for my bad English.
Hi, I've got a 2016 F150 with 5.0 w/ 99k miles on it. My torque converter went out about 10k miles ago and I had it replaced. Transmission tech checked everything out while he was in there and said everything looked good. He replaced the fluid and filter also. Now, I've got the 5-3 "Squawk" happening. The first time it did it was shortly after the repair. Currently, just about everytime it shifts from 5 to 3 it squawks. I just ordered a tube of the XL-16 6R ATF Additive. In your experience, is the additive going to fix the Squawk for good? Trying to determine whether or not to trade it in. Thanks!
Hi Hiram how can I get in contact with you or your shop or you have other social media?
Hello sir please can you help me I have expedition 2014
Issu is 6 gear down shift hard
That definitely is a valve body issue.
By reaming the two valves and installing the kit will correct the issue.
Or purchase a new valve body.
Wuddup brother
Hey what's the most difficult transmission to work on in your experience? Thanks
Great find. Any idea why it cracked? Google search shows this may be a more common 6R80 issue.
You're probably right, more common in different areas of town I suppose. Where there's a lot of stop and go traffic. I've noticed that on transmission with highway driving have more miles before repairs are needed.
Great catch for sure. That could have been easily missed and you be pulling the transmission back out. That really could get a guy go down a rabbit hole and get all turned around.
Yes indeed, that's where the intensive drive payed off fishing out the issue. Going directly to the affected components. In this case the Overdrive drum.
@@AutomaticTransmission I think that is what has gotten lost at a lot of the shops these days. Actually listening to the customer complaint and trying to really find the problem. I used to own semis and most mechanics working on big trucks don't even have a CDL. They scan it, unleash the parts cannon and push you out the shop as quick as possible hoping you make it a couple hundred miles down the road before the money light comes back on.
@@AutomaticTransmission what’s the name of this part.
Do you think this transmission is tough enough for a F150 5.0 V8 engine if you want to tow with it?
Depends on what you’re towing I guess! And over what, in what temperatures. Here in Australia they are used behind the less powerful 3.2 duratorque diesel, for 3.5 tonnes (metric) towing. But many would fit a modified cooler and heavier duty TC, plus bypass the thermostat that stops lower temperature flow to the cooler. However that’s for constant towing at 100°f +. Apart from factory faults and weak TC issue, I believe the box itself is ok. But with enough force and/or stupidity, I’m sure one could bust it!
Where are you located
Good find, definitely an easy one to overlook if air checking fast.
Yes indeed.
gracias hermano por tu informacion
I've got P07AA
Cracked drums…..dang fords.
I cracked one in my 5R110 -coast clutch-
They need to use real steel drums and not the stamped pot metal garbage…..imho
معلومه جديده 👍👍
Hello thank yoi for sharing this vidéo ! I wanted to know if this issue can cause à bumpy shifting only from 3rd to 4th ? Or if you have a cracked drum, it will have malfunction on multiple gear ? Regards
2013 F150 w/80k miles. Clunks into 2nd gear when shifting from first. Any opinions?