Learned this one from an old timer in the early eighties. used it hundreds of times since. He would say " make sure that line is as tight as a guitar string"
Any method that you do not need to measure each stud individually is going make way way less mistakes and yield a better outcome! Nice trick to adapt to lots of things! Thank you for sharing
Been doing wall framing for years. This is a new one. Only problem. You need to waste more lumber. Most framing is with precut studs. Shim sill plate or top plate as required for uneven substrate. Good idea though.
I really like this idea, the only thing for me is if when you stand the stud up to the line and its not perfectly plumb then that will change the height when you do install it plumb.
@ClegFromCullman agreed, it's pretty forgiving. Usually you have something in the background you can use as a reference to keep the studs plumb, but even if you're out two degrees on a 9' stud, its only 1/16th. We originally did them with a spirit level but quickly found it unnecessary. Plus if you rub them a little bit on the line, the shortest point will always be plumb. It's a good method.
I completely agree with you. I think the better method would be to only do a few studs every whatever feet, install the top plate and eye it up to fill in the rest or possible shim/trim the first temporary studs. With that being said not all framing has to be absolutely perfect and this technique is way better then people just throwing the studs up.
Holding a board up to a line and eyeing it doesn’t ensure that it’s plumb. Apparently you haven’t done any framing ,but then again most framers are hacks because they can’t be precise enough to get a masters in a real trade. Any kid out of junior high can be a framer.
Yeah, I wasn't sure how plumb it would need to be, so I did the math and on a 104 inch stud. You could be off plumb by about 1/2 inch at the top and still cut it to within 1/8 inch. At 1-1/2 inch (about 1 degree) off plumb you have about 1/4 inch. Which is probably acceptable, but I'd rather be closer to 1/8. A taller stud-say 10 foot-is harder to hold plumb but is more forgiving - you could be about 2 inches off plumb before you hit 1/4 inch That being said if your bottoms are cut square and you plant it on the plate, I think you'd be within tolerance.
I do thos same thing but with a laser. Set the laser, get instrument height, figure out how much board should be above that. Do your whole first floor without reseting string lines. The chaulk line idea is neat, the laser is just quicker in the long run. Doing this makes going up on the rest of the house much easier.
I had an old italian boss when i was a kid. He showed me this trick while framing a walkout basement. He also showed me how to cut jack studs as an L, as opposed to a square cut. Inspectors dont like it and you apparently have to pack them w/ insulation due to dead space.. but they install perfectly/easily, and your header will stay plum as a young bum
As a 3rd generation framer i can verify this works like a charm. Just make sure to hold the stud straight and on layout. My dad taught me this when i was younger.....best framer i ever saw. Rest high on that mountain pop! We love and miss you every day!!
This is how I learned to frame out basements. Get your green plate on the top and then nail together three blocks of 2x4 to represent your bottom and double top plate. Put the stack on the basement floor and the stand the stud on top and twist against chock line. If your line is nice and tight it will be perfect. Now I’m the basement I always take off at least a blade to a 8th extra to keep you from having your floor joists becoming a teeter totter. It’s a crap show when you have to start notching out every topplate to get them sitting down right.
Exactly!! I installed the tile floor in my dudes house that he was building. Heated floor with 1×2 tiles. Slab. Crete was poured and finished to perfection by the concrete finishers! No need to level any part afterwards! Level, square, and plumb isnt that hard to achieve!
this. i can see this trick being more useful on renovations where the concrete has settled in places. new construction the concrete should be flat enough. i do concrete and i shoot for 1/8th difference at most
Some older Canadian taught us that 25 years ago. Definitely idiot proof. Especially when the string is set with a lazer. We had this lovely task on countless occasions doing temporary walls, form stringers for brick and stone work.
Fine for 3 little walls like this. But when the whole foundation has 1 1/2 variance over 26' we put double mud sills and shim them up. Check level with the transit and start dropping joists.
Its better/faster to set a nail in each corner of the bottom foundation green plate and string it super tight. Then loosen your foundation bolts and shim the low spots and retighten the foundation bolts. Can even do this before you sheer the wall.
@@sjoroverpiratSo you build the wall with double bottom plates and shim them to level once you raise the wall? Am I comprehending correctly? I want all points of view.
This mailman really knows his stuff
😂😂😂😂
@@AwesomeFramers hahah the fact that you liked and laughed made this even funnier, I love UA-cam, great framing trick by the way
Yeap. That's what I thought
😂😂😂
I was not expecting this comment, but I'm so glad it was said 😂. Good hearty laugh. Much appreciated
Carpentry is such a weird trade.
Despite how long you've been in the trade, there's always something new to learn
That's all trades
Everyones brains are different, so that’s why so many people think and work differently lmao
That's life in general. Somebody always has a different perspective on the matter
Totally learned something today, why not use it for a few years, but learned it
Been doing it for half my life now, 18 years in a week. I have never seen this trick
Learned this one from an old timer in the early eighties. used it hundreds of times since. He would say " make sure that line is as tight as a guitar string"
Tight as a ducks arse works for me, and that’s water tight😂
Tighter than a fat girls sock
Tiger tight
tighter than a wh0res dream
I was always told fiddle string tight
This is a method i've never seen but will definitely incorporate, cheers 👍
Any method that you do not need to measure each stud individually is going make way way less mistakes and yield a better outcome! Nice trick to adapt to lots of things! Thank you for sharing
Great for fence boards too
thank you for this comment!!!!! i dont do much framing but ive built a few fences
I learned something new today. Thank you.
Love this tip. The GC I work for does a lot of renovation and I see this being quite helpful in that application.
LO freaking L! Been there, done that. Especially true on buildings older than 100 years, moreso for a building from the 17th century.
Been doing it this way since 1977
I’m upset you haven’t shown me in the last 30 years Mr.!
For shame…
I’ll bet you’re hogging up all kinds of cool tips and techniques, aren’t you…
'Cos before that they could make concrete level?
It's pretty accurate, I like doing it this way on steped foundation walls.
The longer I do this the more I realize I don’t know!
That my friend is called the dunning Kruger effect
Awesome! Great tip
Been doing wall framing for years. This is a new one.
Only problem. You need to waste more lumber. Most framing is with precut studs. Shim sill plate or top plate as required for uneven substrate. Good idea though.
It seems like a decent idea for pony walls that aren't at a standard stud height.
I really like this idea, the only thing for me is if when you stand the stud up to the line and its not perfectly plumb then that will change the height when you do install it plumb.
With experience you’re eyes will get you close enough to plumb to use this method
@ClegFromCullman agreed, it's pretty forgiving. Usually you have something in the background you can use as a reference to keep the studs plumb, but even if you're out two degrees on a 9' stud, its only 1/16th. We originally did them with a spirit level but quickly found it unnecessary. Plus if you rub them a little bit on the line, the shortest point will always be plumb. It's a good method.
I completely agree with you. I think the better method would be to only do a few studs every whatever feet, install the top plate and eye it up to fill in the rest or possible shim/trim the first temporary studs. With that being said not all framing has to be absolutely perfect and this technique is way better then people just throwing the studs up.
@@petermoore143no it's not I have used this method on every house I have ever built and my floors never have a dip or hump.
Whoa ok carpenter master sorry guess I don't know what I'm talking about
Thanks gentlemen
Always something else to learn!!!
Cool beans! I’m going to use this. I’ll most likely use a plum bubble on the stud
Awesome tip! Thanks for sharing! 💯💯💯
Thanks for sharing. I was wondering how to for a job coming up. I'm definitely going to use this.
Its so much better when your foundation is plumb, and square, and the surfaces flat and level, you just build, stand, brace, tie in and sheathe.
We spot checked elevations on the foundations as per spec sheet. None of the lumber went up until the results were calculated.
And if my Aunt had balls she'd be my Uncle!!!😂😂
Square, plumb, and level foundation huh? That'll be a first for sure
Now there’s a great trick! Thank you for that 🙏👏
Есть нюанс, стойку надо максимально вертикально выставлять, иначе малейшее отклонение тут же прибавит несколько миллиметров к реальному размеру.
Why would your concrete be bad?
That is pretty cool and efficient
As long as you make sure the board is plumb before you mark it.
Huh? He said he was crowning the board. You must have never framed before.
Holding a board up to a line and eyeing it doesn’t ensure that it’s plumb. Apparently you haven’t done any framing ,but then again most framers are hacks because they can’t be precise enough to get a masters in a real trade. Any kid out of junior high can be a framer.
Both you guys need your heads clinked together like like Larry and Curly😅
Negligible
Yeah, I wasn't sure how plumb it would need to be, so I did the math and on a 104 inch stud. You could be off plumb by about 1/2 inch at the top and still cut it to within 1/8 inch. At 1-1/2 inch (about 1 degree) off plumb you have about 1/4 inch. Which is probably acceptable, but I'd rather be closer to 1/8.
A taller stud-say 10 foot-is harder to hold plumb but is more forgiving - you could be about 2 inches off plumb before you hit 1/4 inch
That being said if your bottoms are cut square and you plant it on the plate, I think you'd be within tolerance.
Nice trick man. Thanks for all the videos!
I do thos same thing but with a laser. Set the laser, get instrument height, figure out how much board should be above that. Do your whole first floor without reseting string lines. The chaulk line idea is neat, the laser is just quicker in the long run. Doing this makes going up on the rest of the house much easier.
Actually really good idea!
In order to get the chalk line tight enough to be perfectly straight without any say it would break.
The string will sag more the longer the span.
Exactly
Doesn't matter if it sags its just gotta be straight
@@dustinpomeroy8817 it can sag up to an inch depending on the span . Of course it matters
@@dustinpomeroy8817 you’ll have a dip in the floor lol.
Thanks. Solid tip!
"perfectly flat" - freehands the crosscuts
Pretty good tbh. Most of these tricks are silly. This one is actually a good one
Outstanding
I love learning new stuff and this is a great thing to learn
Pretty slick I love all the little tricks to every trade and they all work
been doing this for 42 years....only way to go , never fails..
How do you level the string?
Fantastic tip!!
Wow great tip thank you. I will definitely use this 100%. Keep up the great work
That chalk line sags so you're not getting a perfect flat top😂😂😂😂
Good information
I had an old italian boss when i was a kid. He showed me this trick while framing a walkout basement. He also showed me how to cut jack studs as an L, as opposed to a square cut. Inspectors dont like it and you apparently have to pack them w/ insulation due to dead space.. but they install perfectly/easily, and your header will stay plum as a young bum
As a 3rd generation framer i can verify this works like a charm. Just make sure to hold the stud straight and on layout. My dad taught me this when i was younger.....best framer i ever saw. Rest high on that mountain pop! We love and miss you every day!!
Thats actually genius
Imagine we also used to use plumb bobs. Back in the 1900’s
This is how I learned to frame out basements. Get your green plate on the top and then nail together three blocks of 2x4 to represent your bottom and double top plate. Put the stack on the basement floor and the stand the stud on top and twist against chock line. If your line is nice and tight it will be perfect. Now I’m the basement I always take off at least a blade to a 8th extra to keep you from having your floor joists becoming a teeter totter. It’s a crap show when you have to start notching out every topplate to get them sitting down right.
Pro method. And I bet everyone remembers who they learned it from.
clever. ty. i would suggest also making sure the bottom corner of the timber is on the bottom plate before chalking ie not up in the air a little bit
Make sure to finish your foundation top flat and move on with life.
That's a different trade buddy ol pal
Exactly!! I installed the tile floor in my dudes house that he was building. Heated floor with 1×2 tiles. Slab. Crete was poured and finished to perfection by the concrete finishers! No need to level any part afterwards! Level, square, and plumb isnt that hard to achieve!
Some foundation guys can get it dead on and sometimes you need to shoot the concrete with a transit and get out the steel shims
It works well until the superintendent tries to help and sets them all one stud off...
this. i can see this trick being more useful on renovations where the concrete has settled in places. new construction the concrete should be flat enough. i do concrete and i shoot for 1/8th difference at most
I also learned this in the eighties .
I have seen many fails .
A builders level and a sharp pencil is the best way ...
Nice ❤
Nice work, an old tried and true method! Is that the 36 Voly Metabo HPT saw? Nice! Keep up the good work!
Excellent technique, thanks.
Love this. Genius. Would work on fencing etc. you could use laser and a boy in a ladder with a pencil if it was something heavier too
Nice
Some older Canadian taught us that 25 years ago. Definitely idiot proof. Especially when the string is set with a lazer. We had this lovely task on countless occasions doing temporary walls, form stringers for brick and stone work.
Nice tip i will be using that one!
“ThE wAlL fOlLoWs ThE cOnCrEtE”
Every time a framer tells me this I’m like “And??!”
Love how older carpenters lived by the k.i.s.s method!! super handy trick for major remodels thanks man!👍
There's a lot easier way. You put wedges in the middle of the two top late wherever it's low. And this will also make the facia straight.
I love this man’s humble sense of humor.
Almost 30 years exp. Never seen that trick.👍🇺🇸
Nice!😮
Balloon framing typically used in basement payouts
Framed alot of houses. This is new to me. Thanks
Larry Huan kinda approves your method.
Awesome
Good if your holding it fairly plumb
Fine for 3 little walls like this.
But when the whole foundation has 1 1/2 variance over 26' we put double mud sills and shim them up.
Check level with the transit and start dropping joists.
It's very common before lasers. Also, crossing slabs like basements floors.
“Of course crown them” does this mean make sure all timbers are curved the same way?
Not a term I’m familiar with in England
Good for short distances - the '90s weren't using lasers so best get with the program
Beauty tip!
Worm saws are nice!
l shoot all non concrete corners first with laser transit to insure level corners before pulling string lines.
What a clever trick!
I do that as well! Well done!
I knew he was good as soon as I saw the Metabo!!
Cordless wormdrive, sweet!
That’s brilliant. I’ve built houses for years, and for some reason never thought of this.
Thanks for mentioning me 👍
Wow, this tip is actually good! lol
Good information.
I had to watch this 3 times, I didn’t see the line and was so confused lol
We ditched the string for a laser
Awesome system
👍👍👍👍
Its better/faster to set a nail in each corner of the bottom foundation green plate and string it super tight. Then loosen your foundation bolts and shim the low spots and retighten the foundation bolts. Can even do this before you sheer the wall.
Great info
Great idea chippies always know best
Or use a transit… I swear I would fire someone for that
Please explain how a transit is faster? That requires 2 people. Shooting both ends with a laser and running a chalk line is idiot proof.
excellent
Build the wall on the ground and raise it up. Simple.
"Regardless of how bad the concrete is"?
@@SAGE795 what?
If the concrete haunching isn't perfectly level your wall won't be either.
@@SAGE795 i have no idea how you guys do it, but we use double 2x8 and shim it so it gets perfectly level. Quick shims are great for this.
@@sjoroverpiratSo you build the wall with double bottom plates and shim them to level once you raise the wall? Am I comprehending correctly? I want all points of view.
where you from.
love the tips and tricks
What brand saw is that I keep seeing them around and they look great
Works like a charm 👍
That's a great trick. Thanks!
Good job. I’ll take that one. I don’t listen to anyone badmouthing you in the comments.
Neat! I used a laser level at the base to mark a true line recently.
Great idea
Great tip, better then building a wall, setting it up, and working all day with shims trying to get all four the right height.
Thanks