41-7059 is an unbranded 40223 facet for reefers. its a little cheaper. And It's easier to get power on your key on ignition off post on the starter relay on your fender. Its shorter than running a wire to the gpr. Good vid.
Thats cool that it works. I’m sure it would be fine because the pump only draws 1.5A but you should really have a relay with power coming direct from the battery and a 5A fuse inline. The wire your drawing off of is a signal wire (not designed to be put under load) and if the lift pump motor were to ever short to ground you might get a little electrical fire action under the hood maybe under the dash. No big deal lol
No all it does is strain large particulates that could be in your fuel. It does t really do anything for separating air, it will act as a secondary water separator though
It did a few thing it increased overall reliability because after having 3 mechanical pumps fail(original and 2 aftermarket ones) I went to the electric pump. It was a more consistent flow rate and pressure instead of fluctuating with the rpm, but most importantly it allowed an ease of getting air out of the fuel system
To the best of my knowledge it has not. Truck drives great though I don’t drive it much anymore. Mostly only when I need to pull something heavy, I mostly run a trailer welding rig now and pull it with my explorer most of the time, but sometimes use old blue for something’s.
@adamswelding5052 They make 2 models..WOT do you outrun this 9-11.5psi pump?.. I'm considering 12-15psi..50gph but still the injection pump at WOT needs 74gph..just curious before I pull the trigger..thanks again!
I believe the difference is pump output psi. I went with this one because it’s the one everyone tell you to get I got it for mine and it has been working amazing since! Only thing I did different that what is in the video is I added a inline fuse to the 12V power line
That’s a good quest and it isn’t really used as a filter because it doesn’t filter to a low enough micron to do that job good enough to be called a filter but it’s purpose is mainly as a strainer to keep any debri that could be pulled from the fuel tank from getting into the pump
You don’t have a pump in the tank just a pickup tube, normally if you are having a issue in the tank it’s either a broken showerhead(part of the pickup tube it’s like a strainer), the tank selector valve isn’t working properly, or it is a bad mechanical pump, it you install this electrical pump you have to delete the mechanical one or else you will have issues
41-7059 is an unbranded 40223 facet for reefers. its a little cheaper. And It's easier to get power on your key on ignition off post on the starter relay on your fender. Its shorter than running a wire to the gpr. Good vid.
Thats cool that it works. I’m sure it would be fine because the pump only draws 1.5A but you should really have a relay with power coming direct from the battery and a 5A fuse inline. The wire your drawing off of is a signal wire (not designed to be put under load) and if the lift pump motor were to ever short to ground you might get a little electrical fire action under the hood maybe under the dash. No big deal lol
So would running the pump off the battery with a relay in between is the best option?
Does this pump strain the air from the fuel inside of that fuel filter housing?
No all it does is strain large particulates that could be in your fuel. It does t really do anything for separating air, it will act as a secondary water separator though
How did it increase reliability please.
Did it affect cold or hot start. Which was the biggest improvement please.
It did a few thing it increased overall reliability because after having 3 mechanical pumps fail(original and 2 aftermarket ones) I went to the electric pump. It was a more consistent flow rate and pressure instead of fluctuating with the rpm, but most importantly it allowed an ease of getting air out of the fuel system
Very good job. I have a 1988 Ford 7.3 power stroke . Needs a little work
No such thing as a Power Stroke until 1994.5
I’m gonna do this to my 6.9 IDI. Nice video!
Question: did it affect the IP timing or adjustments at all?
To the best of my knowledge it has not. Truck drives great though I don’t drive it much anymore. Mostly only when I need to pull something heavy, I mostly run a trailer welding rig now and pull it with my explorer most of the time, but sometimes use old blue for something’s.
I install same pump and it fells like I lost some power, anyone has noticed that as well?
Hi Adam, very cool idea. One question, is the electric pump running all the time, or just during starting.
The electric pump runs as long as the key is in the on position
@adamswelding5052 They make 2 models..WOT do you outrun this 9-11.5psi pump?.. I'm considering 12-15psi..50gph but still the injection pump at WOT needs 74gph..just curious before I pull the trigger..thanks again!
@@tbobmann2299-11 works just fine buddy
Could i use that fuel pump on my 94 7.3 idi with turbo?
I clicked on your hi torque starter link and it goes to a case backhoe starter. Is that the one you used on your 7.3 idi?
No it isn’t I’ll check it out they may have changed the linked page on Amazon so I may have to create a new link
@@adamswelding5052
I read further down the page and it also fits Ford idi. Good to know. My backhoe will be needing one soon also.
Why not use the facet 40285 pump what's the difference between the 40285 an di 40222
I believe the difference is pump output psi. I went with this one because it’s the one everyone tell you to get I got it for mine and it has been working amazing since! Only thing I did different that what is in the video is I added a inline fuse to the 12V power line
Oh I heard the mechanical fuel pump out put is 6 psi can i use di 40285 which is 4-7 psi output or should I use the 9-11 psi which u install?
I used tha 9-11 because that was the part number recommended to me and it works great in my truck without issue.
Why do u use a filter before the electric fuel pump?
That’s a good quest and it isn’t really used as a filter because it doesn’t filter to a low enough micron to do that job good enough to be called a filter but it’s purpose is mainly as a strainer to keep any debri that could be pulled from the fuel tank from getting into the pump
Can you use this on 91 7.3 IDI to replace bad in tank unavailable pump / sending unit?
You don’t have a pump in the tank just a pickup tube, normally if you are having a issue in the tank it’s either a broken showerhead(part of the pickup tube it’s like a strainer), the tank selector valve isn’t working properly, or it is a bad mechanical pump, it you install this electrical pump you have to delete the mechanical one or else you will have issues
What year is your 7.3? Is it the 7.3L Power Stroke?
It’s a 1990 f350 7.3idi NA(natural aspirated) it’s the 7.3 before the power stroke motor
@@adamswelding5052 that's the vehicle you will still be able to ride around in after a nuclear EMP goes off, while my 2003 will be dead as a doornail.
@@massa-blasta lol yup I love full mechanical diesel motors
How y'all saying that on a video that literally replaces a mechanical component with electric!?!?! Hahahahahah
@@scott76421 he blew up that 7.3 and quit his channel
Honestly it should be closer to the tank
No it shouldn't. Dura-LIFT pumps pull vertically buddy. Do some damn research
Ac tank 🤣
I need boyfriend 💋💋💋💋💋💞💞💞💞
You want a 7.3 to be reliable??? LEAVE IT ALONE.. Mine is 30 years old. No problems.. I don't try to modify any on it.
Not true with the quality of parts available now you have to to get reliability I changed mechanical pumps 3 times before swapping to the electric