Metolius TCU vs 1 tonn boulder
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Found an old TCU in the mountains and decided to take it for a test. The first image shows the cam after the loadtest. The axel is clearly bent from the forces of the outer cams, making it impossible to release the lobes. Still quite amazing how an old and rusty 8 kN cam can take so much weight. When I found it the lobes had grown/rusted togheter and had to be beaten apart
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I need to watch more videos like this whenever I'm about to climb trad.
DownstairsB it's all about how you place the gear!
Better to be overscared than overconfident.
and force=mass x acceleration, and thus, 8kN (force)/9.81 m/s^2 (acceleration gravity) = 815.5 Kg rated haul mass (mass)... so it is lifting 185 kg more than it is rated for, which is 22% which is huge
There is a problem of definition here. What is "1 tonn"? Is it 1000kg or 2000 lbs? If it is 2000 lbs, then it is only 907.185 kg. Second how accurately is that nominal "1 tonn" boulder measured? As far as I know, "tonn" (with two n's) is nowhere defined.
@@professorsogol5824 A ton is an imperial unit of mass equivalent to 1,016.047 kg or 2,240 lbs. A tonne is a metric unit of mass equivalent to 1,000 kg or 2,204.6 lbs. And let me just add that if you're using the first one I have no respect for you as a human being.
@@c.l.368 The title of the video is "Metolius TCU vs 1 tonn boulder." I asked for clarification of the units: What is a "tonn"? As far as I have been able to determine, "Tonn" is an uncommon surname. I don't care if we are using metric, imperial or US customary measure, but please be clear on the terminology being used.
Awesomely reassuring
Well to estimate the weight of the Boulder, the math is pretty straight forward:
how big is that Boulder? 1m in diameter?
The volume of the Boulder: ~4/3 x pi x 0,5^3 = 0,523m^3
Average mass of granite: ~2691kg/m^3
Estimated weight of the Boulder is then 0,523 x 2691 = 1407kg [3096lbs]
Granite or limestone?
Pretty impressive considering the placement was in a cut, which likely has a much smoother surface than a natural crack. Good work Metolius
The strength of the gear is tested on smooth surfaces by the manufacturers (usually metal, I think). www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/experience-story?cid=qc-lab-ultimate-strength-gear-testing
Rumors has it that on the first try the placement was too shallow and the rock broke.
Weird how the carabiner gets loaded along a suboptimal axis
good observation. This was not a biner strength test but it is assuring to see it take the load along the gate and not the back. Of course an oval would be optimal here, but the choice of biner was not my priority :-D
Suddenly I feel a lot less reluctant to fall on my gear, let alone my 00+ size cams.
Lay underneath the boulder and you've got your very own sword of Damocles
You'd be surprised how dense granite can weigh. Work it out. Anyway, I'd hate to drop that boulder on my toe. ;)
I would bet that the boulder is 2000 lbs. Bear in mind that 1 cubic meter of water weighs 1 metric tonne or 2,204 lbs and the boulder will be more dense than water.
You win. Its a 2thousand lbs bouler
And just like that, I'm free falling on my cams..
VERY GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!! BEST WISHES!!!!!!!!!!
now i can fall on trad gear lol
Impressive, but where are the Kilo newtons?
The view count is 11,111. XD
Geologist much?
Funny how Albert Einstein is in every comment here 😁
Funny how knowing basic physics now is classified as being Albert Einstein
1 metric tonne = 1000kg = 9.8kN
Honestly I'm not a climber but I still wouldn't trust that cam as my friend. Just saying.
that boulder does not weight 900KG? is it made of lead?
It is VERY VERY DANGEROUS to stand near highly tensed line. Don't do that! What if this cam will break and all its parts will be tossed all over the place with great speed?
well, I did it for science. And youtube of course. Happy to be alive now that you mention it :-p
Man I was like "do not go near that do not go near that" - do you know how much potential energy that would be explosively released is in that f'n cam!? wow.
It did blow the on the first try because the groove was to shallow. Very uneventful you dramaqueens
@@GoProBros1 Safety third!
@@GoProBros1 because when cams fail due to poor placements they fail at very low force (like, just a couple hundred pounds). This is why your gear ripping doesn't slow you down by all that much. If this were to fail fully loaded, however, it would be incredibly dangerous to be anywhere near it. Learned this from someone who makes industrial ropes who has seen some ropes break under high load.
I think you will find Newtons are the unit of weight. Weight is the force (measured in newtons) due to gravity. Mass is measured in Tons and kg.
weight is force, not to be confused with mass. And a 1000kg rock suspended in gravity needs to be held by a 1000*9.81=9.81KN force
There is no way that weighs 2000lbs.
there is always ways!
kN is a unit of force not weight
Bruh. "The unit of measurement for weight is that of force, which in the International System of Units (SI) is the newton."
AND...if that boulder were unweighted and took a 6 inch drop, I'd guess that it would blow. Things change tremendously in more dynamic situations. Even small dynamic situations.
Good thing boulders don't trad climb, then.
Bruh learn physics and then come back