Climbing Basics: How to Tri Cam!
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- Can you Tri Cam like the TRI CAM-MAN can CAM!?
In this Episode I cover the basics of a tri cams. After this one you should know how one is placed and some of its limitation. DO NOT go out and start trad climbing just because you have watched UA-cam videos. There is a ton of knowledge an experienced climber needs to know, so go with some one that has the beta first!
Tri-Cam Set: amzn.to/3i2012j
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This is a seriously undersubscribed channel. Such good content.
Yea man, seriously. No one gets there overnight tho! But I say within the next couple years, BetaClimbers will blow up compared to the amount of subs right now.
0 downvotes. I repeat, “zero downvotes”
You’re a legend
I got a set of tricams this past spring and they have quickly turned into my favorite piece of gear!
Awesome Intro! Your videos are entertaining and educational at the same time. Keep up the good work!
Great video's man! I found them yesterday and i love them
There are only pink tri cams. The others are a myth.
Love the videos Josh. Keep it up mate
Good stuff, still haven’t tried these myself. Might just grab that pink one on your recommendation though, more gear is always a good thing.
Can't wait for your channel to blow up man. High quality content
pink red and brown are standard gear at the gunks....great to have as a save my cams for later piece!! also they rach super clean on the harness!!
Love your videos really inspirer me to go climb!
Also great in standard horizontal placements where you might otherwise use a totem or an X4 or something. Tricams are lighter, use up less space on your rack, you can save the cams for later on, the narrow head width fits similar irregular cracks to totems and X4s, and less likely to damage the tricam webbing over an edge where you would risk kinks in cam wires and stems if you whip.
Thank you. Well done.
Been using them since they came out and they can really save you on certain types of rock. Sink the pink when all else fails.
Hey Josh good video and extra points for the DragonBall shirt
I use tricams every time I lead in the Daks. Great for flaring cracks where nothing else will work.
Liked the tricams video much more than the nut video. I think it was the over setting of the nuts (in my opinion, of course) that put me off of that one. Keep up the good work! Many more likes than dislikes on this channel.
Thank you, man!
Best intro on UA-cam!
Nice!
Nice video, subscribed
Killer intro!
this is awosme thanks
Tricams are prob my #1 piece of gear when climbing the Water Gap. Super handy, although if your follower doesn't know how to take them out it can be easy to lose them...
I just bought the SLACK t shirt its very nice and good quality thx mate
jay Helsby right on! 🤙🏻 Cheers!
Awesome intro!
derek atwood 🤙🏻
I'm yet to see these being used on British gritstone or lime yet. Cheers for the video though I might have to look around for some placements.
Wish I had some experience over there maybe when the travel ban is lifted! 🤙🏻 Cheers.
@@BetaClimbers Yeah definitely head over to the Roaches or Stanage.
I don't have any personal experience using tricams on that type of rock, however, I have heard that they work particularly well in medium/soft or wet rock because the dimple of the cam bites into the actual rock. No experience yet to back this up but it is what I have heard!
I love tricams for holes and pockets
Nice video. I have an unrelated question / request. A guide I was with today didn't like the rope I had to make the prusik-block for rappelling. Apparently nylon is no good, it needs to have a kevlar core...? Why don't you do a video on rope and sling materials ?
I’d say 5mm-6mm nylon accessory cord is very common for prussics however sense you are rappelling you have to worry about the nylon getting much hotter and melting. Yeah that is a great topic thanks.
Hi Josh
First, 'passive mode' in a constriction is as strong as the rock, the webbing, and the pin; the cammed mode can approach, but never exceed that ultimate strength, as the leverage magnifies wedging forces that can pop flakes, crumble weak rock, etc. The camming is initiated by the foot, which has to engage a pit, or crystal, or groove, etc. to stop it from just sliding out, as contrasted with spring loaded cams that can more actively initiate outward force to generate friction sufficient to stop sliding. Especially with larger ones, the foot is almost always going to be Down, because that's the way gravity and the tipping action sets it in. Larger Tricams with the foot up can just loosen with a sideways tug, and then its weight collapses it into a flatter profile where it will easily pull out. The foot generally needs to be oriented down in horizontal camming placements, so the dragging tooth will tend to catch, and tip/rotate the cam up, wider and tighter. As with many things, sizes range from best to least - 0.25, 0.5, 1.0 are the most useful, fitting into narrower and shallower placements, especially piton scars, with greater strength than SLCs in the same spots. Above 3, their weight creates issues of stability, and lots of compact SLCs fit better with no strength compromise.
no Amazon - buy from rock & snow & support local
Not sure where you are getting your strength ratings from @1:40. CAMP's website says a pink tricam holds 7kN in passive, and 9kN in active (www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/rock-protection/tricam/). Much higher than your reported (3/5 kN).
I think I correct my self at 3:30
@@BetaClimbers You're right! My bad.
@@derekjones6947 it’s all good 🤙🏻 I try to get everything right the first time doesn’t always work out🤣
tricams are the dream protection of leaders and the bane of followers.
You just have to know how to clean them and they are way easier than most make them out to be. 98% of the time I don't even use my nut tool to clean them, just two fingers on the rockers and the rest of my hand gripping the sling. Push in slightly until it loosens from the placement and hold the rockers down as I pull the tricam out.
¿Have you ever read the boltin bible? ¿What you think about it?
andres felipe cuervo vega never heard of it I’ll try and find it. 🤙🏻
@@BetaClimbers It's called The Bolting bible, was written for the creator of How not to Highline.
andres felipe cuervo vega Thanks!
Yeah also in Australia we have lots of sandstone, a local legend wrote up a soft rock bolting guide that's worthy of a read if your rock might be so inclined and youve ever wondered about assessing your sandstone bolts! Or learning more www.onsight.com.au/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2014/01/Bolting-guide-V7.pdf
Tricams are awesome.
I've once even tried placing them in vertical parallel cracks in active mode on my practice board.
They would catch even if the crack was expanding top-down like so.
ibb.co/KmxjFQH
I haven't tried this in real rock yet, but I presume the LESS friction the stone gives the better their active action kicks in (hence they worked flawlessly on my board).
Yeah thats scary I would avoid placing anything in an expanding crack like that one. Lol I’d move on to find something better 😂 maybe place it to the left haha
the wood is soft the tricam might've bit into it
😂❤ 🎉
Man you are funny. Like best friend funny. But i can garanty that your kids won’t find you funny. Lol. But I will.
🤣🤣🤣
no such thing as "active mode" with passive gear.
active requires an "active spring...
Not necessarily, That whole debate relies on the fact you agree of the definition of active, and many many people refer to the tricam having a active mode
Active in my mind simply means that the piece has expanding geometry when a load is applied to it thereby exerting more friction on the rock and an active placement of a tricam most certainly fits this criterion.