@@ntj030885 when you accelerate hard or add resistance by climbing a hill, the controller will pull more amps. I did have the bms cut out on this battery when I installed the Altrax AC1 conversion kit but that cart was going nearly 45mph. If you stay within the recommended specs you shouldn’t have an issue. Also you can reset the bms by just plugging it into the charger
@@projectkarr ok that makes sense I think. If I just have a factory cart from a golf course or something and put this battery in there I should be ok then I think. I know that’s kind of vague but I don’t know much about golf carts.lol. I just need something factory but with lifepo4 batteries.
@ no problem at all. There’s so many options out there it’s tough to know where to go. I know quite a few people running these batteries plus I’m running them in multiple carts with no issues so I feel pretty good about recommending them
We have a club car precedent. It is all stock except we had the speed code 4 unlocked. Will the LiTime 48v 60ah battery be sufficient?? We use this cart at the beach and ride around daily with 2 adults and grandbabies. Also we want to install one in our farm cart that is just all stock. Thank you!
@@therustedsouth2599 you shouldn’t have any problems unless you are typically needing more than 15-20 miles of range. Also I’m not sure which year club car you have, but the early precedents have the controller mounted in the middle which could cause problems installing. If your controller is mounted on the rear of the compartment it should fit with only minor trimming.
Thanks for the video. Do you think the Li Time 48v 100ah battery (says max 5000 amps) will work for a golf cart that has a 400 amp Curtis 1268 controller setup for 25 mph?
@@lilsky12 you shouldn’t have any problems with that setup. Most controllers won’t pull anywhere near their max. I’ve never had my Navitas 600a controller pull more than 300a.
Thank you for the reply. Do you have a recommendation on a charger. I was told the Li time one was not so great. Maybe Noco GX 4820 or something else? Tks again.
@@lilsky12 I’m currently using a few different ones. Do you plan to use it onboard? Is so it’s definitely a good idea to get a charger with some sort of weatherproof rating. The Noco charger you listed would work great but is probably a bit overkill. I’m using chargers from big battery, battery evo and allied. They are all weatherproof and seem to work great.
I've been looking at this exact 48v 60ah battery to power my 48V outboard on my boat. The max current draw is exactly about 120-122A depending on voltage. I only intend to run it at max draw for a couple minutes at a time so I'd like to see if this battery can handle it. I'm wondering if you could do a test at 125A to see if it can go for a couple minutes before cutting out or generating too much heat? Thanks!
Sorry for the delayed reply but yes I did a test at higher output with no issues as of yet. Even with the controller set high, it only pulls above 100a during initial acceleration. Driving up a hill or offroad may be a different story.
@projectkarr am I missing something in the comparison here? My Trojan batteries are 120ah. They are what I would call the "run of the mill" batteries. So are normal lead batteries also 60ah? Or is it that a 60ah lifepo4 is comparable to 120ah lead acid? Please clarify if you happen to read this. Thank you!
@@dannydivine7699 that’s a really good question since it takes a different charger to charge lithium batteries. It doesn’t seem to be an issue and I can watch the positive charge voltage on my meter as the regen kicks in.
What are all the small wires attached to your battery? I thought that was all the 12v accessories. I received a 48V cart with no batteries an wasn't sure about the 12 v system.
Those wires are all 48v wires for charger, volt meter and voltage reducers. Since this battery is 48v I have to run a voltage reducer from the battery to all of my 12v accessories. If you are running lead acid then you should be able to pull 12v from the first battery in series. Be sure to test with a volt meter to make sure you don’t fry anything.
@@projectkarr , Thank you. Makes sense, I received a 48v cart without batteries and purchased the LiTime 48v. Trying to trace all the wire to see what is 12v or 48v. Wire diagram from manual is useless....lol
@@projectkarr Thanks for the quick response and feedback. If I only need 25-30mph top speed (completely flat terrain) and 95% of the time only 2 adults. Do I need the 600amp version or will the 440amp version work. It’s a 5 year old CC Precedent with 6” lift. Thanks in advance.
@@brianford9522 I think the 440a version would be plenty. I’ve never even turned my controller up past 350a. I don’t think the 440a controller comes with the on the fly controller which I would highly recommend.
@@projectkarrthe wheelie that 5kw 48V motor pulled off raised my eyebrows really high. That thing punches with so much power, probably too much power for the golf cart. Also, sorry. If the motor is a 5kw and runs from 48v DC, shouldn't it be using just about 100A max, rather than the 200A or 250A you calibrated it to in the Navitas app? I may be wrong
How is this holding up? I have the same motor/controller (and body kit). I have 23” tires and live on flat terrain. I go maybe 10 miles max. Will this be good?
@@AdrianPhillips-hk6fh this battery has been great. The only thing I will say is limit it to around 200a max and you shouldn’t have a problem with the bms shutting down the battery. Range has been around 16 miles with the cart flat out so 10 miles shouldn’t be a problem.
So this is pretty much a bare battery that isn’t cart specific. It does fit in the stock battery tray without cutting anything, but you need to put a piece of angle iron to support one side of it. Self tapping screws are enough to hold in the piece of angle. The charge port wires can go directly to the battery or you can wiring an onboard charger directly to it. Just make sure if you convert to lithium that you are using a charger capable of charging lithium batteries.
When you depleted the battery, how long did it take to fully recharge? My current lead acid batteries take a while. Do you think it would have a longer range if you ran at a lower average speed?
Your last question, you should have a longer range with lower speed technically, cos lower speeds, lower current draw....higher speeds, higher current draw..🤔
Most people are testing these 60ah batteries with a Navitas. I have a stock motor and controller in my club car but it’s flashed to so 25mph. 60ah wasn’t enough for that set up. I learned the hard way and had to upgrade
Ya the Navitas AC setup would probably be a bit more efficient. It all comes down to your intended use and range needed. My main setup was 90ah which wasn’t enough but thankfully I was able to add an additional battery for 120ah total
Any tips for someone about to do a lithium swap on a Navitas chasis cart (lifted) with 5kw/600amp. Looking at the 100AH version of this since its on sale right now. Also did you need to modify the battery compartment or cut off the lead acid battery lock down points
I am getting ready to buy a lithium 48v battery for my older EZGO TXT. I use it on my farm for getting around but never go more than 5 miles in a day. It has Ocelot Cross Country 4-Ply Modified V-Tread Utility ATV Tire 22X11-8 P308. A gentle slope but mostly flat. I don't need to go fast. It has a 500 amp alltrex contoller. Will this 60AH work for me for this short of daily distance? 5 to 10 miles a day at the most? I can get the 100AH but don't need to over spend if the 60AH will do the trick. Thanks
Thinking about purchasing this. Would you know for a 2012 Yamaha G29 stock motor and controller, would this be enough? I'm confused if I need to purchase a 100ah or 120ah? Thanks
I’m not too familiar with Yamaha carts, but a standard 48v lead acid battery pack is very close in usable capacity to a 60ah lithium pack. I would expect you to easily get 20 miles running a stock motor/controller with the 60ah pack. If you need more then you may want to go higher
Didn't see any hills on the test run fast-forward. Not really a test of output capacity. You could do that run with a bunch of portable drill batteries as there is no current load on flat ground for the most part. 10km run up a 15% grade will show you the real life of a battery. Those don't hold up anywhere but in Flat Florida where everything is paved. You need resistance to get to the higher current draws.
@@gregoryperes1385 while I understand your point there’s many reason I don’t do that. I try to remove as many variables as possible to have a consistent result between different batteries. Everything will affect range (terrain, speed, tire size, psi, temperature, weight, bearings, aerodynamics, etc). I’m showing a test of the range you should get on level ground knowing your range will potentially go down with hills. I’m consistently getting 200+ amp draws under acceleration with sustained 100+ which is where I set the controller output at. And no, I don’t live in flat Florida.
Keep Postin !👍
Nice video!! Thank you~ I also expect you can have a test on their mini
Is that a body kit? Looks great
Thanks! It’s the madjax storm body kit for an Ezgo txt.
Question do you not have a way to see how many amps you’re pulling? I think you need a shunt
@@dmax9731 I have installed a battery meter with shunt since this video. Definitely recommended
@@projectkarr can you remake this video using the shunt now?
@@projectkarr I believe you can put the discharge on your AC kit to 300 but it’s only really gonna pull 117 can you confirm that?
Some people say that the BMS will cut out if you try to accelerate too fast or go up a hill at wide open throttle. Why would this be happening
@@ntj030885 when you accelerate hard or add resistance by climbing a hill, the controller will pull more amps. I did have the bms cut out on this battery when I installed the Altrax AC1 conversion kit but that cart was going nearly 45mph.
If you stay within the recommended specs you shouldn’t have an issue. Also you can reset the bms by just plugging it into the charger
@@projectkarr ok that makes sense I think. If I just have a factory cart from a golf course or something and put this battery in there I should be ok then I think. I know that’s kind of vague but I don’t know much about golf carts.lol. I just need something factory but with lifepo4 batteries.
@ ya this battery is really designed to replace a factory set of lead acid batteries. I would be shocked if you had any issues hitting the bms.
@@projectkarr that’s good. Thank you for taking time to answer questions. It’s hard to find help about these things.
@ no problem at all. There’s so many options out there it’s tough to know where to go. I know quite a few people running these batteries plus I’m running them in multiple carts with no issues so I feel pretty good about recommending them
We have a club car precedent. It is all stock except we had the speed code 4 unlocked. Will the LiTime 48v 60ah battery be sufficient?? We use this cart at the beach and ride around daily with 2 adults and grandbabies. Also we want to install one in our farm cart that is just all stock. Thank you!
@@therustedsouth2599 you shouldn’t have any problems unless you are typically needing more than 15-20 miles of range. Also I’m not sure which year club car you have, but the early precedents have the controller mounted in the middle which could cause problems installing. If your controller is mounted on the rear of the compartment it should fit with only minor trimming.
What make is that cart. I love the front end
It’s an Ezgo txt with a madjax storm body kit
Great vid & test but air temp was what 75* now do the test in 35*
Thanks for the video. Do you think the Li Time 48v 100ah battery (says max 5000 amps) will work for a golf cart that has a 400 amp Curtis 1268 controller setup for 25 mph?
@@lilsky12 you shouldn’t have any problems with that setup. Most controllers won’t pull anywhere near their max. I’ve never had my Navitas 600a controller pull more than 300a.
Thank you for the reply. Do you have a recommendation on a charger. I was told the Li time one was not so great. Maybe Noco GX 4820 or something else? Tks again.
@@lilsky12 I’m currently using a few different ones. Do you plan to use it onboard? Is so it’s definitely a good idea to get a charger with some sort of weatherproof rating. The Noco charger you listed would work great but is probably a bit overkill. I’m using chargers from big battery, battery evo and allied. They are all weatherproof and seem to work great.
After 10 months since posting, are you still running this battery and if so, how is it doing?
PS. Are you Cal from Pepper Geek?
I've been looking at this exact 48v 60ah battery to power my 48V outboard on my boat. The max current draw is exactly about 120-122A depending on voltage. I only intend to run it at max draw for a couple minutes at a time so I'd like to see if this battery can handle it. I'm wondering if you could do a test at 125A to see if it can go for a couple minutes before cutting out or generating too much heat? Thanks!
Sorry for the delayed reply but yes I did a test at higher output with no issues as of yet. Even with the controller set high, it only pulls above 100a during initial acceleration. Driving up a hill or offroad may be a different story.
@projectkarr am I missing something in the comparison here? My Trojan batteries are 120ah. They are what I would call the "run of the mill" batteries. So are normal lead batteries also 60ah? Or is it that a 60ah lifepo4 is comparable to 120ah lead acid? Please clarify if you happen to read this. Thank you!
How does the regen work with the LiFePo4 chemistry vs wet lead I assume the cart was originally built for??
@@dannydivine7699 that’s a really good question since it takes a different charger to charge lithium batteries. It doesn’t seem to be an issue and I can watch the positive charge voltage on my meter as the regen kicks in.
Pls what's the wattage of the motor?
@@MrHandle_1 it’s the Navitas 5kw motor with the 600a controller.
What are all the small wires attached to your battery? I thought that was all the 12v accessories. I received a 48V cart with no batteries an wasn't sure about the 12 v system.
Those wires are all 48v wires for charger, volt meter and voltage reducers. Since this battery is 48v I have to run a voltage reducer from the battery to all of my 12v accessories. If you are running lead acid then you should be able to pull 12v from the first battery in series. Be sure to test with a volt meter to make sure you don’t fry anything.
@@projectkarr , Thank you. Makes sense, I received a 48v cart without batteries and purchased the LiTime 48v. Trying to trace all the wire to see what is 12v or 48v. Wire diagram from manual is useless....lol
Sorry if I missed it, are you running the Navitas 600amp / 5000W setup or the 440amp/4,000W version? Thanks! Any updates or issues in last 4 months?
No problem, I’m running the 600a/5kw motor controller setup. I personally haven’t had any issues to speak of.
@@projectkarr Thanks for the quick response and feedback. If I only need 25-30mph top speed (completely flat terrain) and 95% of the time only 2 adults. Do I need the 600amp version or will the 440amp version work. It’s a 5 year old CC Precedent with 6” lift. Thanks in advance.
@@brianford9522 I think the 440a version would be plenty. I’ve never even turned my controller up past 350a. I don’t think the 440a controller comes with the on the fly controller which I would highly recommend.
@@projectkarrthe wheelie that 5kw 48V motor pulled off raised my eyebrows really high. That thing punches with so much power, probably too much power for the golf cart.
Also, sorry. If the motor is a 5kw and runs from 48v DC, shouldn't it be using just about 100A max, rather than the 200A or 250A you calibrated it to in the Navitas app? I may be wrong
How is this holding up? I have the same motor/controller (and body kit). I have 23” tires and live on flat terrain. I go maybe 10 miles max. Will this be good?
@@AdrianPhillips-hk6fh this battery has been great. The only thing I will say is limit it to around 200a max and you shouldn’t have a problem with the bms shutting down the battery. Range has been around 16 miles with the cart flat out so 10 miles shouldn’t be a problem.
How much KW is that navitas motor? Would really appreciate your answer.
I have the 5kw motor with 600a controller
@@projectkarr Thanks for clarifying 👍👍
I am interested in purchasing this battery does it come in a kit for an EZGO 2018 cart?
So this is pretty much a bare battery that isn’t cart specific. It does fit in the stock battery tray without cutting anything, but you need to put a piece of angle iron to support one side of it. Self tapping screws are enough to hold in the piece of angle.
The charge port wires can go directly to the battery or you can wiring an onboard charger directly to it. Just make sure if you convert to lithium that you are using a charger capable of charging lithium batteries.
Where is the duramax Build
When you depleted the battery, how long did it take to fully recharge? My current lead acid batteries take a while.
Do you think it would have a longer range if you ran at a lower average speed?
Your last question, you should have a longer range with lower speed technically, cos lower speeds, lower current draw....higher speeds, higher current draw..🤔
Most people are testing these 60ah batteries with a Navitas. I have a stock motor and controller in my club car but it’s flashed to so 25mph. 60ah wasn’t enough for that set up. I learned the hard way and had to upgrade
Ya the Navitas AC setup would probably be a bit more efficient. It all comes down to your intended use and range needed. My main setup was 90ah which wasn’t enough but thankfully I was able to add an additional battery for 120ah total
So I was going to order this for my stock clubcar DS. You think this won’t work?
Any tips for someone about to do a lithium swap on a Navitas chasis cart (lifted) with 5kw/600amp. Looking at the 100AH version of this since its on sale right now. Also did you need to modify the battery compartment or cut off the lead acid battery lock down points
I am trying to repower a 24 volt scissor lift. Any suggestions?
A++
Nice video! haha I remember LITIME their name is pronounced lithium ... li. 🤣
Your a cool cat PK
May God protect you and your family in these troubling times 🙏
Things are about to get very dicey bro. Read your Bible ☝️✌️
I am getting ready to buy a lithium 48v battery for my older EZGO TXT. I use it on my farm for getting around but never go more than 5 miles in a day. It has Ocelot Cross Country 4-Ply Modified V-Tread Utility ATV Tire 22X11-8 P308. A gentle slope but mostly flat. I don't need to go fast. It has a 500 amp alltrex contoller. Will this 60AH work for me for this short of daily distance? 5 to 10 miles a day at the most? I can get the 100AH but don't need to over spend if the 60AH will do the trick.
Thanks
60ah should really be plenty for what you are using your cart for. 60ah is equivalent to a standard complete set of lead acid batteries.
hi, how many battery do you need for Golf Cart?
Thinking about purchasing this. Would you know for a 2012 Yamaha G29 stock motor and controller, would this be enough? I'm confused if I need to purchase a 100ah or 120ah? Thanks
I’m not too familiar with Yamaha carts, but a standard 48v lead acid battery pack is very close in usable capacity to a 60ah lithium pack. I would expect you to easily get 20 miles running a stock motor/controller with the 60ah pack. If you need more then you may want to go higher
Didn't see any hills on the test run fast-forward. Not really a test of output capacity. You could do that run with a bunch of portable drill batteries as there is no current load on flat ground for the most part. 10km run up a 15% grade will show you the real life of a battery. Those don't hold up anywhere but in Flat Florida where everything is paved. You need resistance to get to the higher current draws.
@@gregoryperes1385 while I understand your point there’s many reason I don’t do that. I try to remove as many variables as possible to have a consistent result between different batteries. Everything will affect range (terrain, speed, tire size, psi, temperature, weight, bearings, aerodynamics, etc). I’m showing a test of the range you should get on level ground knowing your range will potentially go down with hills.
I’m consistently getting 200+ amp draws under acceleration with sustained 100+ which is where I set the controller output at.
And no, I don’t live in flat Florida.
Made in China
How many batteries did that replace ? , I have 6 Lead Acid deep cycle batteries in a Club Car
It replaces a standard 48v lead acid pack so it should be very similar in performance to your lead acid