The best yet . I did my rear brake shoes correctly because of this video ......and they tested ok ,,,,the drums stayed cool ....yep about fifty times on the pedal for adjustment ...thanks again ...have a good life
I am a DIY guy. This took me about 5h to do, in the end i went and bought the tool for the spring holder by snapon. With the tool install took 3 sec... Brske drums are always hard to DIY
Having the right tools always makes a big difference in terms of speed, ease of doing the job and even reducing the risk of injury in some instances. I’ve worked with dealer techs who hated replacing brake shoes, back in the day when they were commonplace on most cars but the more you do the quicker you get!
Hello, great work. I've already done it on my Smart. A little tip: if you press the brake pedal and hold it down, the brake fluid won't keep running out. Greetings from Old Germany 🥸
You make first class videos. They're far better and more expertly explained than most. It makes me sad to see that the world has not discovered your channel yet; you really deserve to go viral. Keep at it, it might take some time for your channel to really take off.
So well explained got one as a private job and wanted to see what sort of job it was, ended up watching the whole thing! I've gotta unseize/replace the handbrake cable too on the offside.
You, sir, are an absolute life saver! Thank you so much for your amazing content. It is all very professional, and the tips throughout the video are gr4eat as well. I've actually taken notes as if I were in a class lol. Thanks again!
Thank you my friend. Because of you I could change my rear brakes. The foot brakes works perfectly when I put the brakes together, but somehow I never got the handbrakes to work. I put the auto adjuster on the closest position and at first I needed to pump with my foot a few times, but then the normal foot brakes worked perfectly. Then when I tried the handbrake, the handbrake never works. I tried a bunch of combinations with like the handbrake and the footbrake, but somehow the handbrake never adjusts itself. I don't know what to do. Then I did the mistake, like so many people do, like you said at the end of the video. I adjusted the auto adjuster myself, so the brake drum fits very closely. And then I got the handbrake to work, but I had a problem, that when I drive, my rear right brake got very hot. There was even some form of smoke coming up. So that is not a solution. Can you help me how to adjust the handbrake? Thank you
@@Carmaniac-j8y it is very difficult to be sure of any problem without seeing the vehicle. I would be closely examining the brake assembly and paying special attention to the adjusters to ensure that they are assembled correctly, including the springs and that the adjusters are moving freely. The adjuster bar that goes between the two shoes must also be located correctly into the correct place on the shoe. I’d also check that the handbrake cables are functioning correctly and operating the arm on the brake shoe. It’s important to avoid a smoking/overheating situation as it quickly destroys the brake linings, can distort the drums (causing brake judder at the pedal) and in extreme cases ruin the wheel cylinders too. Because you are dealing with brakes, take care to ensure the vehicle is safe/roadworthy and if in doubt entrust a qualified car technician.
You make that look sooo easy! 🤣 seriously... really good clear video. Of course, can't wait for the Jeep fuel tank change. I saw the price of the plastic replacement! Will be changing my Jeep droplinks shortly thanks to your earlier video 👍
Thank you! I’ve changed so many over the years. When I was a VW and Vauxhall dealer tech I was doing these all the time on Polo, Golf, Corsa, Astra etc. Most of my Smarts have needed wheel cylinders so fairly well versed! Got the old tank out of the Jeep last night and it’s going back together today. It’ll be next weekends video.
Very good. I just removed the screw for the drum and it did not "fall off". I need to drive it tomorrow so, now I just watched our video and think I may need to pull harder or a pulling tool?
I have just successfully carried out some maintenance on my 2013 Smart 451 cabriolet rear brakes, and I have to say that thanks to your excellent video It was all very straightforward. I only really struggled when it came to refitting the top spring, I just don't have the strength that I had when I was younger, it took my wife and I, a set of mole grips and a long screwdriver which we used as a lever to get it back on, but we did it! Many thanks. Have you considered a video on how to carry out a full belt change?
That top spring can be a challenge but I’m glad the video was helpful. I do feature elements of belt replacement in my air con compressor video. It will be different for an MHD model though, as mine is the 84bhp turbo model. The link is below: ua-cam.com/video/aJCAN-WyQhc/v-deo.htmlsi=7EwCZJHYTTYPeU6y
I have a smart fortwo 2008 passion I love my little car with one exception I cannot seem to find parts for it the bottom panel is falling off I had someone zip tied up there but it's falling off again I don't know if you might know how or where I could go to get a new one? My next question is yesterday evening I went to close my top and it will not close and I realized that my mirrors don't move and my radio is I'm not sure how to fix these problems or maybe there's a fuse box somewhere? Do you have any advice for an old lady with a cute little Car I just adore
Great video as always. But may I ask why you changed the cylinders? As they didn't look like they were leaking. I always tend to add a little bit of copper slip to the thread of the torx bolt. As over the years, ive drilled may of them out. Then used grips to wind them out.
@@Tony95192 The wheel cylinders are so prone to leaking on these that I just changed them anyway. It made sense to do it all in one job at the same time as the rest of the rear brake components were being changed.
How are you finding the Apec brake shoes. Need to get mine replaced, but not sure of this brand. Thanks. Great videos...really inspire me to get stuck in.
They are operating beautifully. I used to work at a dealership where we used Apec a lot for ‘other makes’, as our local factors supplied them. Never had a problem.
Firstly, fantastic video. So much so I'm newly subscribed to your channel. Very detailed and full of tips and tricks to get the job done right, such as using a brake shoe clip tool; it was worth every penny! I just finished doing the rear brakes on my '08 and decided to replace not just the shoes but all the hardware (springs, self adjuster, cylinder and drum). It seemed to come out fine as I took my time since I wanted to do it right the first time. However, i now I have rear brake shudder - I feel it coming through the pedal especially during high speed braking. I was careful to use brake cleaner on the inside of the drums and even on the shoes in case I had anything on my hands when assembling. I also bled all 4 corners carefully using a DOT3/DOT4/DOT5.1 fluid. Any idea why the brake shudder? Your opinion would be highly valued.
My first thought is, was this judder evident straight away after the replacement, or did it appear over time and if so how long after? Also, are either of the rear wheels becoming hot? An over-adjusted set up will overheat and cause judder. I’d be removing both drums and inspecting the shoe set up really carefully and check that the adjusters are performing as they should, springs positioned correctly and nothing is out of place. My next thought would be brand of components. Are the adjusters genuine, along with other parts used? If everything else seems fine, you may just be unfortunate and have a new brake drum that has somehow gone out of round. I’ve had the same with front brake discs before and sometimes we had to replace under parts warranty. In some cases though I often wondered if the customer failed to take any time to allow them to bed in. I’m glad the video has been useful and I’ll be interested to hear what you find and how you resolve it.
@@autoknight747 Thanks for the super quick reply. The judder started immediately, the first test drive after completing the brake job. All the parts I used are aftermarket. And yes (ugh) I may not have given the brakes shoes enough time to bed in - I was a bit aggressive testing my handiwork. In any case, tomorrow I'll take off the drums and see what's going on. I'll lightly sandpaper the shoes and inside the drum and see if that changes anything as I may have glazed them. I will keep people interested updated with what I find. It may help out another Smart car owner. Again - thanks!
@@autoknight747 Here's an update if anyone else is having similar brake shudder/judder issues. Firstly, if you've serviced all 4 brakes then the way to know if shuddering coming from the front or rear is via the 'feel'. If you're feeling the shudder predominantly through the brake pedal then it's most likely the rear brakes; if you're feeling it predominantly through the steering wheel it's likely the front brakes. So to start with I took off the drums and lightly sanded the shoe contact surface of the drum with 400grit sandpaper. I did this in case of mild imperfections or if it had contaminants. I then lightly sanded the shoe surface with 150grit. I cleaned both with brake cleaner. I went for a drive and disappointingly the shuddering persisted. This morning I cleaned, sanded and then cleaned again the old OEM brake drums to see if they made any difference to the shuddering issue. Well, much to my surprise - no shuddering! It seems autoknight747 hit the nail on the head when he said the new drums may be out of round. My 2 cents...I suggest you buy genuine drums if you're looking at updating the entire rear brake kit. You'll save a few dollars going aftermarket, but it's a crap-shoot on the quality you'll get. I think aftermarket brake springs and other hardware may be ok but when it comes to the close tolerances of drums and their fitment then spend the extra coin and go genuine. I purchased Centric brand drums from Rockauto (USA) and I'll be attempting to get a refund. Yes the OEM drums have outer surface rust and look ugly, but they're thicker metal and (importantly) allow me to brake properly! Excuse the long diatribe, but if it helps one Smart owner following autoknight747's lead of doing stuff for themselves, then it's was worth it.
@@pepedc2203 It is great to read this update and understand the outcome here. Just as well that you kept the old drums! I’ve found that it can be ok to deviate from genuine Smart components providing I stick with quality German brands. Not had a problem with Bosch or Febi Bilstein but genuine is definitely the gold standard. Glad you found the cause!
Much like brake discs, the contact surfaces of a brake drum can become ridged and lipped. Over prolonged mileage the shoes wear away at the drum surface, taking them past their maximum wear limit. My drums were at that stage and it made sense to replace the drums at that point, so the whole assembly was new and good for many miles to come.
Thank you. Wheel cylinders generally need replacing if they are leaking (they usually leak behind the rubber boots before it becomes externally evident), or if they are seized. If going to the expense & effort of changing drums and shoes I would personally change them too regardless, so I know the whole set up is new. Those on a budget might disagree!
Are you planning on making a video on how to replace the auxiliary belt on the Smart for two 451? Also what’s the name of that tool used to remove the rear drum brake pads? What grade of abrasive cream did you use on the polycarbonate roof? 👍😊
Auxiliary belt issues generally apply to 71bhp MHD models and with mine being an 84bhp, there is currently no reason for replacement. If I ever have to replace, I’ll video. The tool is a Snap-on product and to be honest I bought it so many years ago, I cannot remember it’s designation but it’s for removing brake shoe retaining cups, pins and springs. The cutting compound was Farecla G3 Pro D.A. - marketed to eliminate P1500 sanding marks.
Hi, when trying to diagnose rear wheel bearing hub assembly on my 2013 451 I found that I cannot spin the rear wheels when up on a jack. The emergency brake is not on. Is this normal? Any help would be appreciated.
The brake must be binding. Rear drum brakes are quite prone to this following lack of use or moisture entering drum assembly. The surface of the brake drum and the sintered metal particles in the linings can corrode together. Failure of shoe return spring or shoe retaining spring, pin or cup can also cause a brake assembly to lock up.
HELLO, CAN YOU HELP ME, I HAVE A PROBLEM. IN MY SMART 2001 IT WORKS BUT AFTER DRIVING THE EXCLAMATION POINT APPEARS AND IT STOPS ADVANCE BUT THE ENGINE CONTINUES ON AND I HAVE TO SWITCH OFF AND IT WORKS AGAIN. I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION SINCE NO FAULT APPEARS IN THE SCANNER. THANK YOU..
Your videos are so constructive, encouraging and wonderful for people who may be doing this for the first time. Thanks a million!
The best yet . I did my rear brake shoes correctly because of this video ......and they tested ok ,,,,the drums stayed cool ....yep about fifty times on the pedal for adjustment ...thanks again ...have a good life
This is great to read. Thank you for this feedback!
非常好的视频教程,我已经成功更换我的2014 smart,两个小插曲:刹车鼓卡住,用铁锤不断敲击震动,才把刹车鼓拆下,以及在安装新的刹车片后,自调整装置有点卡滞,在我反复踩刹车时,只有左后刹车会有“咔哒”的调节声,最后只有把右后刹车鼓重新拆下,重新安装自调整装置,现在一切正常,手刹也恢复到3-4格。非常感谢~
Done my rear brakes today.
This video gave me the confidence to do this myself
Absolutely brilliant, well done for being so thorough. That little tool for the springs is awesome
Really appreciate this! Having the right tools always makes a big difference. That tool has paid for itself many times over!
I am a DIY guy. This took me about 5h to do, in the end i went and bought the tool for the spring holder by snapon. With the tool install took 3 sec... Brske drums are always hard to DIY
Having the right tools always makes a big difference in terms of speed, ease of doing the job and even reducing the risk of injury in some instances. I’ve worked with dealer techs who hated replacing brake shoes, back in the day when they were commonplace on most cars but the more you do the quicker you get!
Thanks again! Always great work and excellent camera angles.
Hello, great work. I've already done it on my Smart.
A little tip: if you press the brake pedal and hold it down, the brake fluid won't keep running out. Greetings from Old Germany 🥸
You make first class videos. They're far better and more expertly explained than most. It makes me sad to see that the world has not discovered your channel yet; you really deserve to go viral. Keep at it, it might take some time for your channel to really take off.
Incredibly kind words - thank you!
Immer wieder gut gemacht weiter so! Gruß aus Deutschland
Another EXCELLENT video! I'm about to tackle mine now! Thank you!!
So well explained got one as a private job and wanted to see what sort of job it was, ended up watching the whole thing! I've gotta unseize/replace the handbrake cable too on the offside.
You, sir, are an absolute life saver! Thank you so much for your amazing content. It is all very professional, and the tips throughout the video are gr4eat as well. I've actually taken notes as if I were in a class lol. Thanks again!
Thank you my friend. Because of you I could change my rear brakes. The foot brakes works perfectly when I put the brakes together, but somehow I never got the handbrakes to work. I put the auto adjuster on the closest position and at first I needed to pump with my foot a few times, but then the normal foot brakes worked perfectly. Then when I tried the handbrake, the handbrake never works. I tried a bunch of combinations with like the handbrake and the footbrake, but somehow the handbrake never adjusts itself. I don't know what to do. Then I did the mistake, like so many people do, like you said at the end of the video. I adjusted the auto adjuster myself, so the brake drum fits very closely. And then I got the handbrake to work, but I had a problem, that when I drive, my rear right brake got very hot. There was even some form of smoke coming up. So that is not a solution. Can you help me how to adjust the handbrake?
Thank you
It would very kind of you have help for me my friend
@@Carmaniac-j8y it is very difficult to be sure of any problem without seeing the vehicle. I would be closely examining the brake assembly and paying special attention to the adjusters to ensure that they are assembled correctly, including the springs and that the adjusters are moving freely. The adjuster bar that goes between the two shoes must also be located correctly into the correct place on the shoe. I’d also check that the handbrake cables are functioning correctly and operating the arm on the brake shoe. It’s important to avoid a smoking/overheating situation as it quickly destroys the brake linings, can distort the drums (causing brake judder at the pedal) and in extreme cases ruin the wheel cylinders too. Because you are dealing with brakes, take care to ensure the vehicle is safe/roadworthy and if in doubt entrust a qualified car technician.
Thank you very much for your video. Many greetings from Germany.
Thankyou Autoknight. Couldnt get the Apec ones in the end, so got some Delphi from GSF in the end. 🤞
You make that look sooo easy! 🤣 seriously... really good clear video. Of course, can't wait for the Jeep fuel tank change. I saw the price of the plastic replacement! Will be changing my Jeep droplinks shortly thanks to your earlier video 👍
Thank you! I’ve changed so many over the years. When I was a VW and Vauxhall dealer tech I was doing these all the time on Polo, Golf, Corsa, Astra etc. Most of my Smarts have needed wheel cylinders so fairly well versed! Got the old tank out of the Jeep last night and it’s going back together today. It’ll be next weekends video.
Thanks again the videos are very helpful 👌
Well done! Great details! Cheers!
thank you so much for your nice clips... very helpful
Thank you for this Classy tutorial video
This Video helped me alot 👌👌👌
Bravissimo 10 e lode!
Excellent videos, very thorough and straightforward. Keep at it 👍😊
Thank you! Lots more content to come 👍
Bro this video is perfect!!!
Very good. I just removed the screw for the drum and it did not "fall off". I need to drive it tomorrow so, now I just watched our video and think I may need to pull harder or a pulling tool?
Very clear , helpful
I have just successfully carried out some maintenance on my 2013 Smart 451 cabriolet rear brakes, and I have to say that thanks to your excellent video It was all very straightforward. I only really struggled when it came to refitting the top spring, I just don't have the strength that I had when I was younger, it took my wife and I, a set of mole grips and a long screwdriver which we used as a lever to get it back on, but we did it! Many thanks.
Have you considered a video on how to carry out a full belt change?
That top spring can be a challenge but I’m glad the video was helpful. I do feature elements of belt replacement in my air con compressor video. It will be different for an MHD model though, as mine is the 84bhp turbo model. The link is below:
ua-cam.com/video/aJCAN-WyQhc/v-deo.htmlsi=7EwCZJHYTTYPeU6y
Bel lavoro...grazie per questo tutorial anche io riuscirò a cambiare i freni alla mia Smart. Posso sapere dove hai comprato i ricambi?
Good video
I have a smart fortwo 2008 passion I love my little car with one exception I cannot seem to find parts for it the bottom panel is falling off I had someone zip tied up there but it's falling off again I don't know if you might know how or where I could go to get a new one?
My next question is yesterday evening I went to close my top and it will not close and I realized that my mirrors don't move and my radio is I'm not sure how to fix these problems or maybe there's a fuse box somewhere? Do you have any advice for an old lady with a cute little Car I just adore
Great video as always. But may I ask why you changed the cylinders? As they didn't look like they were leaking.
I always tend to add a little bit of copper slip to the thread of the torx bolt. As over the years, ive drilled may of them out. Then used grips to wind them out.
@@Tony95192 The wheel cylinders are so prone to leaking on these that I just changed them anyway. It made sense to do it all in one job at the same time as the rest of the rear brake components were being changed.
How are you finding the Apec brake shoes. Need to get mine replaced, but not sure of this brand. Thanks. Great videos...really inspire me to get stuck in.
They are operating beautifully. I used to work at a dealership where we used Apec a lot for ‘other makes’, as our local factors supplied them. Never had a problem.
Firstly, fantastic video. So much so I'm newly subscribed to your channel. Very detailed and full of tips and tricks to get the job done right, such as using a brake shoe clip tool; it was worth every penny!
I just finished doing the rear brakes on my '08 and decided to replace not just the shoes but all the hardware (springs, self adjuster, cylinder and drum). It seemed to come out fine as I took my time since I wanted to do it right the first time. However, i now I have rear brake shudder - I feel it coming through the pedal especially during high speed braking. I was careful to use brake cleaner on the inside of the drums and even on the shoes in case I had anything on my hands when assembling. I also bled all 4 corners carefully using a DOT3/DOT4/DOT5.1 fluid. Any idea why the brake shudder? Your opinion would be highly valued.
My first thought is, was this judder evident straight away after the replacement, or did it appear over time and if so how long after? Also, are either of the rear wheels becoming hot? An over-adjusted set up will overheat and cause judder. I’d be removing both drums and inspecting the shoe set up really carefully and check that the adjusters are performing as they should, springs positioned correctly and nothing is out of place. My next thought would be brand of components. Are the adjusters genuine, along with other parts used? If everything else seems fine, you may just be unfortunate and have a new brake drum that has somehow gone out of round. I’ve had the same with front brake discs before and sometimes we had to replace under parts warranty. In some cases though I often wondered if the customer failed to take any time to allow them to bed in.
I’m glad the video has been useful and I’ll be interested to hear what you find and how you resolve it.
@@autoknight747 Thanks for the super quick reply. The judder started immediately, the first test drive after completing the brake job. All the parts I used are aftermarket. And yes (ugh) I may not have given the brakes shoes enough time to bed in - I was a bit aggressive testing my handiwork. In any case, tomorrow I'll take off the drums and see what's going on. I'll lightly sandpaper the shoes and inside the drum and see if that changes anything as I may have glazed them. I will keep people interested updated with what I find. It may help out another Smart car owner. Again - thanks!
@@autoknight747 Here's an update if anyone else is having similar brake shudder/judder issues. Firstly, if you've serviced all 4 brakes then the way to know if shuddering coming from the front or rear is via the 'feel'. If you're feeling the shudder predominantly through the brake pedal then it's most likely the rear brakes; if you're feeling it predominantly through the steering wheel it's likely the front brakes.
So to start with I took off the drums and lightly sanded the shoe contact surface of the drum with 400grit sandpaper. I did this in case of mild imperfections or if it had contaminants. I then lightly sanded the shoe surface with 150grit. I cleaned both with brake cleaner. I went for a drive and disappointingly the shuddering persisted.
This morning I cleaned, sanded and then cleaned again the old OEM brake drums to see if they made any difference to the shuddering issue. Well, much to my surprise - no shuddering! It seems autoknight747 hit the nail on the head when he said the new drums may be out of round.
My 2 cents...I suggest you buy genuine drums if you're looking at updating the entire rear brake kit. You'll save a few dollars going aftermarket, but it's a crap-shoot on the quality you'll get. I think aftermarket brake springs and other hardware may be ok but when it comes to the close tolerances of drums and their fitment then spend the extra coin and go genuine. I purchased Centric brand drums from Rockauto (USA) and I'll be attempting to get a refund. Yes the OEM drums have outer surface rust and look ugly, but they're thicker metal and (importantly) allow me to brake properly!
Excuse the long diatribe, but if it helps one Smart owner following autoknight747's lead of doing stuff for themselves, then it's was worth it.
@@pepedc2203 It is great to read this update and understand the outcome here. Just as well that you kept the old drums! I’ve found that it can be ok to deviate from genuine Smart components providing I stick with quality German brands. Not had a problem with Bosch or Febi Bilstein but genuine is definitely the gold standard. Glad you found the cause!
Thanks, 👍👍
Good~!
Can I ask you why you changed the brake drums? Do they wear so much they need to be replaced? Other wise great video.
Much like brake discs, the contact surfaces of a brake drum can become ridged and lipped. Over prolonged mileage the shoes wear away at the drum surface, taking them past their maximum wear limit. My drums were at that stage and it made sense to replace the drums at that point, so the whole assembly was new and good for many miles to come.
Great video! Do you need to change break cylinders every time you change drum and shoes? Thank you
Thank you. Wheel cylinders generally need replacing if they are leaking (they usually leak behind the rubber boots before it becomes externally evident), or if they are seized. If going to the expense & effort of changing drums and shoes I would personally change them too regardless, so I know the whole set up is new. Those on a budget might disagree!
nice guide, do you have a link to the tool used to remove the spring? TIA
Thank you! No link as I bought it from the Snap On truck but the item number is BT17A
Are you planning on making a video on how to replace the auxiliary belt on the Smart for two 451? Also what’s the name of that tool used to remove the rear drum brake pads? What grade of abrasive cream did you use on the polycarbonate roof? 👍😊
Auxiliary belt issues generally apply to 71bhp MHD models and with mine being an 84bhp, there is currently no reason for replacement. If I ever have to replace, I’ll video. The tool is a Snap-on product and to be honest I bought it so many years ago, I cannot remember it’s designation but it’s for removing brake shoe retaining cups, pins and springs. The cutting compound was Farecla G3 Pro D.A. - marketed to eliminate P1500 sanding marks.
Hi, when trying to diagnose rear wheel bearing hub assembly on my 2013 451 I found that I cannot spin the rear wheels when up on a jack. The emergency brake is not on. Is this normal? Any help would be appreciated.
The brake must be binding. Rear drum brakes are quite prone to this following lack of use or moisture entering drum assembly. The surface of the brake drum and the sintered metal particles in the linings can corrode together. Failure of shoe return spring or shoe retaining spring, pin or cup can also cause a brake assembly to lock up.
What’s the name of that handy dandy tool for the retainer clips?
It’s a retainer spring tool by Snap-on, product code BT17A
Have you ever had to replace the thermostat in a 451
Not so far!
@@autoknight747 do you know how to take the intake manifold off or know of a pdf that I can download that tells you where all the bolts are:
HELLO, CAN YOU HELP ME, I HAVE A PROBLEM. IN MY SMART 2001 IT WORKS BUT AFTER DRIVING THE EXCLAMATION POINT APPEARS AND IT STOPS ADVANCE BUT THE ENGINE CONTINUES ON AND I HAVE TO SWITCH OFF AND IT WORKS AGAIN. I AM LOOKING FOR INFORMATION SINCE NO FAULT APPEARS IN THE SCANNER. THANK YOU..
Unfortunately, faults cannot be diagnosed remotely. The car needs checking out at a garage.
I would pay you to do mine! Lol
Dommage que ça soit pas en français .👀🧐🇨🇦
Thank you for a really helpful video 👍🏻