It looks like your car is in even worse condition than my 74 spider. I'll need to do similar work so will be watching these videos closely. Your metalwork skill appears to be next level also. Thanks for uploading.
Your welcome, thanks for the comment. More videos soon. I'm surprised how well put together the Alfa is so far, I can see why they fetch reasonable money.
I've picked up a '72 spider 2000. Most of the body I've tapped out, the old fashioned way. After a stroke, 2 of my boys used it as a ladder and platform to get down Christmas decorations down, for their mom. They kindly left heel marks all up and down right fender. And a few more bruises aling the same side. They were blocked to bare metal, then lows tapped smooth to a crosshatch block hammer and dollie out. It, an estimated 80 to 100 hours to bring back to where it was. She's mostly bare metal now, and gathering some surface rust. Any ideas? What was the rust worm bath formulia again? I'll be replacing the pans next. I'm sure I'll need it.
Hi, the surface rust needs to be addressed as soon as you can. There are a few products that I use to remove it. My video on how to remove rust on the wheel arch shows using deox gel from bilthamber. That would be the best product to use on your car. Deox c is the immersion rust remover from the same company.
I’ve just done a 1974 Spider in pretty much exactly the same state and worse in certain locations. I’m at 3 years in and am at the point of having the rebuilt engine dyno’d. Then it’s the hood to fit and it’s done. I custom built a rotisserie to make access easier. These are not easy cars to restore. Luckily the parts supply from Classic Alfa in Croydon is great. I’d recommend re-skinning that RH door quite soon to get the bottom shut-line against the cover sill gap right. You might find the wing to door edge will resolve, otherwise it’s a cut and shut exercise. Mine was! Good luck with yours! Looks like you are on the right lines. I
Hi and thanks for the comment, I've got a new door and fitted it in part 2. Totally agree they aren't easy cars to restore but I quite like them anyway. Glad your at the exciting stage. I've got a long way to go. 😉
Thanks and here is the link bilthamber.com/product/deox-c/ I use it on the maximum dilution and rinse with atom mac from the same company. I always dry the part after.
@@bensclassicbodywork Thanks very much! I'm up there filling my shopping cart now. I've been through the rocker part of this (as a helper) with one Spider, and am looking at another as we speak. One thing we did on mine that might be helpful to you was to tack weld a metal bar across the door opening to keep the body from flexing while we were playing with the rockers. You kind of have to do that with the car sitting and the doors off, before you start cutting. I'll be curious to see how you get everything to line up straight. I'm subscribed!
Thanks for this, yes I did as you suggested and welded a piece of box section across the top of the door gap before cutting anything. The panels removed were from a previous owner. I've done a few more videos on this car since this one. Cheers
If you don't mind me asking, how much (if at all) more difficult is the spider to work on compared to other projects you've had? I've got an '85MY that needs similar work and trying to gauge how much of it I could tackle myself with limited welding experience.
Hi, so far I would say it's a bit harder than other vehicles of the same era, just because of the way it's put together. Harder in that every tool in the box has been needed at some point, so if all you have is an electric grinder then a tricky job becomes near impossible. If your Workshop is well equipped then you have a much better chance, its more about the equipment than the skill in my opinion in this case as long as the panels you need are available.
Hi Tommy. The rust removal liquid is called deox C from a company called Bilt Hamber, it's a powder mixed with water at a ratio of 19:1 by volume. After removing from the tank you need another product called Atom Mac from the same company, spraying this on after with a hand pump sprayer prevents the flash rust that will occur. It will remove significant rust on its own after a few days but heavy rusted parts i Media blast first to speed up the process.
@@bensclassicbodywork There’s rust in little places all over the car, but only a couple deep pitted places. Window sills, front lower nose section near the roll bar, paint blisters, and some lifting, over thick sections of putty work have rust beneath. It is more a job of Removing the paint, sanding, a ton of hammer tapping. I don’t have a planisher. I am enjoying the project.
They certainly did and do have that reputation. I do think the majority of it is well built though, sills are very strong . Unlike a Morris minor convertible where you jack up the car and the doors open by themselves. 😆
What a monumental task. Sooner or later this task will be mine again.
You restore cars too?
It looks like your car is in even worse condition than my 74 spider. I'll need to do similar work so will be watching these videos closely. Your metalwork skill appears to be next level also. Thanks for uploading.
Your welcome, thanks for the comment. More videos soon. I'm surprised how well put together the Alfa is so far, I can see why they fetch reasonable money.
I've picked up a '72 spider 2000. Most of the body I've tapped out, the old fashioned way. After a stroke, 2 of my boys used it as a ladder and platform to get down Christmas decorations down, for their mom. They kindly left heel marks all up and down right fender. And a few more bruises aling the same side. They were blocked to bare metal, then lows tapped smooth to a crosshatch block hammer and dollie out. It, an estimated 80 to 100 hours to bring back to where it was. She's mostly bare metal now, and gathering some surface rust. Any ideas? What was the rust worm bath formulia again? I'll be replacing the pans next. I'm sure I'll need it.
Hi, the surface rust needs to be addressed as soon as you can. There are a few products that I use to remove it. My video on how to remove rust on the wheel arch shows using deox gel from bilthamber. That would be the best product to use on your car. Deox c is the immersion rust remover from the same company.
I’ve just done a 1974 Spider in pretty much exactly the same state and worse in certain locations. I’m at 3 years in and am at the point of having the rebuilt engine dyno’d. Then it’s the hood to fit and it’s done. I custom built a rotisserie to make access easier. These are not easy cars to restore. Luckily the parts supply from Classic Alfa in Croydon is great. I’d recommend re-skinning that RH door quite soon to get the bottom shut-line against the cover sill gap right. You might find the wing to door edge will resolve, otherwise it’s a cut and shut exercise. Mine was! Good luck with yours! Looks like you are on the right lines. I
Hi and thanks for the comment, I've got a new door and fitted it in part 2. Totally agree they aren't easy cars to restore but I quite like them anyway. Glad your at the exciting stage. I've got a long way to go. 😉
Excellent video! Could you please post a link to the rust solution you mentioned in the video?
Thanks and here is the link
bilthamber.com/product/deox-c/
I use it on the maximum dilution and rinse with atom mac from the same company. I always dry the part after.
@@bensclassicbodywork Thanks very much! I'm up there filling my shopping cart now. I've been through the rocker part of this (as a helper) with one Spider, and am looking at another as we speak. One thing we did on mine that might be helpful to you was to tack weld a metal bar across the door opening to keep the body from flexing while we were playing with the rockers. You kind of have to do that with the car sitting and the doors off, before you start cutting. I'll be curious to see how you get everything to line up straight. I'm subscribed!
Thanks for this, yes I did as you suggested and welded a piece of box section across the top of the door gap before cutting anything. The panels removed were from a previous owner. I've done a few more videos on this car since this one. Cheers
Nice work.
If you don't mind me asking, how much (if at all) more difficult is the spider to work on compared to other projects you've had? I've got an '85MY that needs similar work and trying to gauge how much of it I could tackle myself with limited welding experience.
Hi, so far I would say it's a bit harder than other vehicles of the same era, just because of the way it's put together. Harder in that every tool in the box has been needed at some point, so if all you have is an electric grinder then a tricky job becomes near impossible. If your Workshop is well equipped then you have a much better chance, its more about the equipment than the skill in my opinion in this case as long as the panels you need are available.
Hello Ben. Exciting to follow your work and resto-tips from here i n Norway☺️What are the rust removal liquid you are ising?
Hi Tommy. The rust removal liquid is called deox C from a company called Bilt Hamber, it's a powder mixed with water at a ratio of 19:1 by volume. After removing from the tank you need another product called Atom Mac from the same company, spraying this on after with a hand pump sprayer prevents the flash rust that will occur. It will remove significant rust on its own after a few days but heavy rusted parts i Media blast first to speed up the process.
Thought I would mention the deox c doesn't remove paint, that has to be done separately. Are you restoring a car ?
I’m rebuilding my 72 spider as well
How's it going ? Let me guess you've found some rust. 😉
@@bensclassicbodywork There’s rust in little places all over the car, but only a couple deep pitted places. Window sills, front lower nose section near the roll bar, paint blisters, and some lifting, over thick sections of putty work have rust beneath. It is more a job of Removing the paint, sanding, a ton of hammer tapping. I don’t have a planisher. I am enjoying the project.
This brand had a special talent for building cars that corrode majorly. They deserve an award.
They certainly did and do have that reputation. I do think the majority of it is well built though, sills are very strong . Unlike a Morris minor convertible where you jack up the car and the doors open by themselves. 😆
Being from dry California, I'm not used to seeing cars dredged up from the bottom of the sea.
Ha! Yeah, here in the Uk if you leave steel unprotected for more than an hour it's gone. Can't imagine the dry of California.
you have made the classic mistake of confusing MAXIMUM disk speed with working speed
Hi, How have I confused working speed with maximum disc speed ? The working speed will be slower making the situation even worse.
Really neat work! 👍👌
Thank you 👍😀
Cor! Got to watch out for those rust worms…! Ha ha!
Ha, yes they are a particular problem here in the uk.