Thanks for this Tutorial, it really helped me realize i am about to buy the wrong tools. And yes its true, that the end-cap, it was so tight.. Used a big torque wrench with Adapter as a lever.
Yes, you can remove the crank arm from either side, but require the Cannondale Crank Extraction Tool (KT013) for both. If you want to remove the spider from the drive side crank arm, there is one additional step which I'll mention, below. The crank arm spider is attached to the crank arm with a lockring that is accessed and located inboard to the spider (abutting the BB on the drive side). This lockring is removed with a special Cannondale Hollowgram Spider Lockring Removal Tool (KT012). An exploded diagram is found in the crankset installation instructions. Here is the link: www.cannondale.com/-/media/files/manual-uploads/manuals/sisl2_road_crankset_instr_1012.pdf I hope this answers your question. Thanks for watching!
How do you get the crank bolt cap off first? What tool do you need for that? Mine looks similar to Shimano (of which I have a tool, but the Cannondale is smaller and I can’t find a tool anywhere)
I'm lost with my crankset. Got the canonndale tool, screwing it in as specified. In your video it seems very easy to pull of the crankarm. In my case, barely anything moves. The crankarm doesnt move even when putting in 10nm of force. Is that normal? Didnt go any further as I didnt want to damage the crankset.
My apologies. Because I had removed the crank arm once before filming, my demo makes it look easier than it actually is. If your crank arm hasn't been removed for some time, then it will require a lot of force to extract the crank arm. Screwing in the crank arm extraction tool in a clockwise direction should require very little force as there is nothing there to cause resistance. It should be as easy as screwing a nut onto a threaded bolt. But when you start the process of extracting the crank arm by turning the extraction tool counter-clockwise there will be a lot of resistance at first. At least until you get the crank arm moving laterally. This is because the crank arm gets wedged in very tightly onto the crank spindle spline. If there is corrosion within the assembly or very little grease was used when it was first installed, this can be extremely tight. I'm just guessing, but I probably used over 40 Nm of force to get mine going. Using the proper tools, it is very difficult to cause damage during the extraction process. Good luck and let me know how it goes!
this is the best guide in youtube that clearly shows what needs to be done. perfect, thank you so much.
Great! Glad it helped.
Thanks for this Tutorial, it really helped me realize i am about to buy the wrong tools.
And yes its true, that the end-cap, it was so tight.. Used a big torque wrench with Adapter as a lever.
Glad it helped. Cheers!
Hello very clear video. But, when wee do this , can be remove the drive side ?
Yes, you can remove the crank arm from either side, but require the Cannondale Crank Extraction Tool (KT013) for both. If you want to remove the spider from the drive side crank arm, there is one additional step which I'll mention, below.
The crank arm spider is attached to the crank arm with a lockring that is accessed and located inboard to the spider (abutting the BB on the drive side). This lockring is removed with a special Cannondale Hollowgram Spider Lockring Removal Tool (KT012).
An exploded diagram is found in the crankset installation instructions. Here is the link: www.cannondale.com/-/media/files/manual-uploads/manuals/sisl2_road_crankset_instr_1012.pdf
I hope this answers your question.
Thanks for watching!
How do you get the crank bolt cap off first? What tool do you need for that? Mine looks similar to Shimano (of which I have a tool, but the Cannondale is smaller and I can’t find a tool anywhere)
The crank bolt cap on the non-drive side is removed with a 10mm hex key.
I'm lost with my crankset. Got the canonndale tool, screwing it in as specified. In your video it seems very easy to pull of the crankarm. In my case, barely anything moves. The crankarm doesnt move even when putting in 10nm of force. Is that normal? Didnt go any further as I didnt want to damage the crankset.
My apologies. Because I had removed the crank arm once before filming, my demo makes it look easier than it actually is. If your crank arm hasn't been removed for some time, then it will require a lot of force to extract the crank arm.
Screwing in the crank arm extraction tool in a clockwise direction should require very little force as there is nothing there to cause resistance. It should be as easy as screwing a nut onto a threaded bolt. But when you start the process of extracting the crank arm by turning the extraction tool counter-clockwise there will be a lot of resistance at first. At least until you get the crank arm moving laterally. This is because the crank arm gets wedged in very tightly onto the crank spindle spline. If there is corrosion within the assembly or very little grease was used when it was first installed, this can be extremely tight. I'm just guessing, but I probably used over 40 Nm of force to get mine going. Using the proper tools, it is very difficult to cause damage during the extraction process.
Good luck and let me know how it goes!
Muy útil, gracias
Thanks for watching!
Can we use Sram remove crank bolt for this sisl crank ??
That’s an interesting question. I don’t know the answer, but curious if others know.
Very good video. Thanks
Glad you liked it!