Two Chucks
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2021
- Hi, this video is about how I was able to use two chucks on my Warco WM250V lathe.
The reason I did this was to help me swap the chucks quicker, use more of the main bed slide (instead of wearing out one small area on the slide) and to give me a more versatile workpiece holding system.
I later found, that I may also be able to use the same device on my Clarkson tool cutter grinder.
(Apologies for some of the sound quality) - Навчання та стиль
I have been a tool room machinist since 1976. The idea of having a rotating chuck opposite the spindle is a great idea. This greatly expands the machining options. This idea can be applied to all larger machines. Thanks for sharing your idea.
Hi, thanks for watching, I'm happy to publish anything I do. However, I'm sure you are aware that not all toolroom opperations go to plan, I did have to use some..... old techniques to bring things in to tollerance. That was fine emery cloth on the spindle between each cut because the finish was poor, and over reaching on the chuck spigot, vibration was an issue but working at 30 rpm stopped the finish problem but the finish was effected..
I am going to modify this unit by making and fitting a DIY parallel drive coupling.. when I get a few minutes to get back in the workshop.
regards
I was just passing by and thought I'd give you a couple of minutes. Now I'm a subscriber. I get great pleasure watching old fashioned skill with a large dose of ingenuity, coupled with a gentle, low voltage presentation. Well done Sir. Greetings from Australia.
G’day, thanks for your comments mate. good to have you along. cheers
Excellent project, not only do you have the ease of setting up the four jaw, but you have the possibilities of a tail mount chuck. An added benefit of spreading your work over a larger part of the ways, for anyone who has a very old lathe with all the past wear near the head stock. Enjoyed, cheers!
Hi, Thanks for that, glad you enjoyed the video.
utterly mesmerizing, fantastic craftmanship!
Wish you had been one of my teacher's when I was actually interested in school your humorous commentary made me laugh😆😆😆😆😆😆🤗🤗🤗
My missus reckons I'm as funny as B.O. in a que.
Stunning work. So wonderful to get clear, concise, explanations, as you go.
Thank you for sharing it with us.
I would love to see a walk around the shed.
Tom Melb Aust
Hi, thanks for watching, I've put some pictures up on my website. the shed looks massive but its far from it, 4mtrs wide by 12mtrs long and almost everything (apart from the heavy machines) is on wheels
Beautiful job. Love how you go from vision to actual item and explain the process. Glad I found your channel. You deserve a lot more subs. Thanks for sharing.
Hi, Thanks for your comments, thanks for watching.
A fascinating solution to a common problem, thank you for a very enjoyable build .
Hi Steve. I think if you watch my video on 'resetting the tailstock' you should see how it was made and the principle by which it works.
Wonderful!! Thank you so much for all the work you put into these videos!
Hi, thanks for your kind comments.
Excellent work. Planning, explanation and executed in total precision. Thank you. 👏
Hi, thanks for your kind comments.
Excellent work, that was a very involved project, great modification and addition to the shop.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi, Glad you enjoyed. Thanks for watching
You most feel like a proud papa w/that creation. The many ways that can be used is incredible.
Hi, thanks for watching, I do like devices that are universal.
Fantastic Paul!....You have greatly increased your workshop possibilities. Keep these inspirational videos coming(love em)...Kevin.
Hi, thanks for watching, Thanks for your kind comments.
I enjoyed that! great content and excellent execution of the project. your videos are getting better and i look forward to them. Thanks for sharing its appreciated.
Brilliant idea and very good executed. Excellent.
Hi. thank you, thanks for watching
Beautiful. A job meticulously done.
Hi, thank you , thanks for watching
Love your videos and your engineering .. if you were my neighbour I'd be the little boy (44 years old) who would watch and ask a million "why" questions .. very much appreciate you sharing your knowledge
Hi, thanks for watching. I already have one of those. LOL.
Wonderful to see a proper engineer at work. Who can machine and measure using mics, vernier, dti etc. Which is called the old fashioned way now.
Hi, thanks for watching. :-)
That was excellent, learned some things and enjoyed watching it come together.
Hi, i'm glad you enjoyed the video.
A very interesting video with a lot of skill and ingenuity .
im soooo glad i discovered your channel. cant wait for the next vid. i love building machines to solve problems, and walking roud srap metal dealers, not only to find treasure but also look at how others solved the problem
Hi, Thanks for your comments, glad you enjoyed the video.
Hello Paul,
A very useful addition to your workshop and a nice design to make it reversible... I feel sure you've sparked the imagination of many of your viewers...
Take care.
Paul,,
Hi, thanks for you very kind comments.
Huge amount of work there, most impressive !
Hi, thanks for watching
Good project , excellent workmanship, big like.
Hi, thanks for watching glad you enjoyed
Congratulations on passing 10,000 subscribers ! Well deserved mate,keep up the good work !
Hi, thanks
That's a very creative solution. Nice work.
Hi, thanks for that. How are you lately...
Nice build, looks very capable!!👍
Hi, thanks for watching, I hope so..
Du très beau travail comme on aimerait en voir tous les jours !!!! Extraordinaire !!!!
Very good work as we would like to see every day !!!! Extraordinary !!!!
Bonjour.. Thank you for your comments, thank you for watching.
Brilliant! I have just found your channel, thank you for sharing it.
Hi, you’re welcome, thanks for watching
How do you get to be so clever? This so good to watch, thank you.
Hi, I don’t consider myself as clever, I just look at a problem that I am having (and I’m sure I'm not the only one having the same issue) and I try to find a solution. If it works, fine. If it doesn’t then you don’t see it…
Excellent work, thank you.
Hi, Thank you, cheers
Nicely done and great idea. I wish I can buy something like this, don't have the skills or the equipment to make one but I can see it being very handy.
Hi, thanks for watching, it takes time to accrue equipment.
You’re a machinist’s machinist. Though I’m 67, I would sign on to be your apprentice any day.
Hi, thanks for your very kind comments. I'm sure there are many, more qualified than me, to show people how to use these machines, I just show people what I go through to achieve my goal.
@@Thesheddweller Un saludo grande desde Argentina....Excelente!!!!!!!!
@@KyMJose Hola, gracias por mirar, me alegro de que hayas disfrutado el video.
i would also with him (nice job).
@@KyMJose Hola, gracias, gracias por vernos.
Delightful to watch. Thank you very much.
Glad you enjoyed it
Una idea brillante felicitaciones maestro.
Hola, gracias, gracias por tu comentario. Pero, no soy un profesor ... soy un antiguo alumno.
Wonderful work, I struggled to make a 4 jaw chuck mounting plate ( I have the same bolt spacing as you do with my Emco V10 ) let alone make a bearing that is spot on center with the spindle. Pleasure to watch
Hi, this system is a very useful addition to my tool box. But there is the possibility that the spindle could accidentally become misaligned due to even the slightest bit of dirt or swarf getting between the main slide and pedestal base, or should the main slide (over time)become worn.
I’m currently making an experimental parallel coupling that is quick and easy to make, repair or replace.
very cool project
Hi, Thanks
beautiful job perfect
Hi, thanks for watching, I'm glad you enjoyed.
On an older lathe, that will help keep the carriage off of the more worn areas of the bed. On a new one, it will (or should) wear more evenly. I've seen one or two use something like that for doing critical work on an older, worn, lathe.
Someone might consider designing a castings kit that could be machined to fit the popular older models. You know how some like their heavy cast iron.
Hi, Quite true, thanks for watching.
Nice!!! Given me a few ideas - although changing chucks on my small lathe is not such a big deal, same system as yours but more space for fingers. I bought a front-mounting 4 jaw chuck that I can also use on the mill, intend to buy a similar 3 jaw chuck when funds permit. Then I'll drill out the spindle back plate and fit thread inserts so both chucks can be easily front mounted.
Hi, thanks for watching, glad to have helped.
wouaou reaiy good idea!!!! i have to learn e lot !! theng you !!
nice work mate
Hi, thanks
Great idea!
Hi, thank you, thanks for watching.
Nice job, made me glad I have a camlock spindle though. Those outer races aren't going to move any time soon with 638 on them! :-)
Hi, thanks for watching. I sort of forgot about that when I put them together thank g(heavens) I didn't need to remove them for the grease nipple.
Nice machining job, changing chucks on the Chinese lathes is a little tedious. However, for smaller jobs where I need a four jaw Chuck I mount a small one on the three jaw chuck and for most purposes works fine.
Hi, yes i agree. thanks for watching.
Nicely Done. Peter Sweden
Hi, thanks for watching.
Brilliant!
Hi, thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video.
Really nice. I have a question doe, how can you grab a totally cantered par with a 3 jaw chuck? I thought they always have a little bit of run out because of how they work. Would this run out cause the headstock bearings to fight with the adapter bearings?
Hi, yes you're right, you'll notice that I marked jaw number 1 this is because I had a cigarette paper under it. I currently have two options internal grind the pre-stressed jaws while set to the grab dimension or modify the drive connection through a schmitt coupling or something similar. by the way, Thanks for watching.
That or I banged me head at some time. Lol. Brilliant.
Hi, thanks for watching. it took almost 3 months to do.
Brilliant, maybe a couple of Oring grooves to eliminate dirt entry in your locking nuts
Hi, thanks for watching, I did think of that but I'm kind of hoping that a 0.15mm (0.006") air (or grease)gap will take care of that.
awesome!
Hi, thanks
A beutifull build.
Did you think sbout driving the 4 jaw via the head morse taper to eliminate the efects of runout in the 3 Jaw?
Hi, thanks for watching, thats a good idea, that gives me three different ways to sort the future issues where as I only had two thoughts on that particular issue.
I would also consider a Flexible Drive (Spider) Coupling. I cam see that being very useful.
@@jonedmonds1681 Hi. I am currently doing a video about fitting a parallel coupling...
Incredible work but I can't help thinking it might have been easier to just buy a second lathe! lol.
A second lathe would be fantastic, better if I could pick one up for nothing.. :-)
@@Thesheddweller Always the goal! lol
Love this channel. You never know what’d they think of next.
I wonder what was the white liquid you squirt on the work, baby formula?
Hi, glad you enjoyed the video. The white liquid is emulsified machining fluid, an oil that when water is added, it becomes a coolant that aids the cutting action, cools the work piece and slows down rusting amongst many other advantages.
cheers.
I'd very much agree that a D1 series quick change on the spindle would have been a much better choice by the manufacturer. But with the design of lathe chuck mounting that your lathe came with, many don't seem to know there's two separate and distinct set ups that use the same stud and thread sizes and on the same PCD for the chucks and face plates. For some reason most of the UK does seem to use the simpler set up where you have to fumble with the nuts and washers in a space hardly big enough for your fingers. And this chuck mounting system is actally fairly old with even it's own German DIN designation. I believe at one time even Emco used this exact chuck mounting design on there lathes.Both my Asian lathes are just about the same as what you have, but still slightly a bit different than yours. My spindle flange is drilled large enough the nuts stay on the studs and can be passed through the clearance holes in that front spindle flange. Behind that face flange on the spindle there's a large fairly thick knurled ring with curved slots and what looks to be loose fitting rivets so that ring is captive but can still be partially rotated. That ring also has 3 key slotted shapes in line with the clearance holes that are through that front spindle flange.
In use and to remove the chuck, you slacken all three nuts a bit, that allows you to then rotate that knurled ring to there nut clearance position and slide the chuck off. To mount the chuck you start the nuts on the chucks mounting studs, slide the chuck onto the spindle register with the nuts and studs lined up with those through holes in the spindle face and ring with those key shaped holes. Once the nuts clear the rear face of that knurled ring, rotate it that partial turn so the narrow area of those key hole shapes are up against the side of each stud. That face of the ring is then used as a one piece washer for the nuts to tighten against. Then just tighten the nuts. A chuck change takes me about one minute. I'd be very surprised if the manufacturer didn't offer and have replacement spindles in stock for your lathe with this improved design. Both my 10" swing Seig C6 lathe and my 11" swing Weiss branded machine use this exact set up. When I was ordering that 11" lathe I learned through the dealer that most off shore machine tool manufacturers do have multiple available factory options the tool dealers like Warco in the UK, Grizzly Tools in North America etc can pick and chose from. I was able to order for example mine with a MT 3 tail stock taper and a rear mounted milling head and column that came with a R8 taper. Both options at that time weren't usually stocked and both the tail stock and milling heads normally had MT 2 tapers when buying from most tool suppliers in my country. So if your having to work that hard and long just to change chucks, maybe see if you can upgrade your spindle with a factory replacement part.
Hi, Thanks for watching. I am aware of the various different types of chuck locking systems available, I bought this lathe on a very tight budget knowing that any extras would tip the scales between have and have not. The system I am most used to is either three or six pin cam-lock. However, the key hole locking ring is in, my mind, the best way to deal with the multiple chuck dilemma on smaller lathes.
@@Thesheddweller Warco now sell this key hole locking ring on the WM290v model, hopefully this will appear on other models, on my earlier 290v nuts & washers as yours I removed all studs put a good lead on end of threads & chamfer, the washers I made them all slightly thicker with a good knurl on them, so much better now, very good video so informative so professional, 👍🇬🇧 from Coventry.
@@grahameblankley3813 Hi, thanks for that. I’m surprised that warco didn’t specify the key hole ring as an option. but when I bought my lathe I had to keep the costs right down or get a slightly smaller lathe with a few more bells and whistles.
Very nice work there. A lot of planning must have gone into the sequence of operations to get the final product truly concentric.
Is your boring bar just clamped in at the chuck end or does it run in a bearing? Some pictures of the boring bar set up would be nice.
Hi, see my video on repairing my tailstock
Alan Milyard likes his hacksaw!
Hi, Yeah,… I know.
Far superior to the idea of a chuck mounted in the tailstock IMO. I've thought about a steady rest with a cat head that turns in a bearing concentric with the lathe spindle. To save space a 4 point QJ bearing sounds workable. While they do not like sustained high speed they are very rigid both axially and radially. We used them on centrifuges for waste treatment plants to take the axial load of the internal conveyor that pushes the cake out.
Hi, I used the bearings as fitted to the lathe, mainly because they are proven to the task.
regards
Do you calculate your feeds and speeds when milling or do you just go by experience and by just knowing what to set it at ?
Hi, thanks for watching, I do sometimes take a look at the feeds and speeds chart but to be honest… I often re-evaluate when the first chips come off. In truth experience plays a big part. cheers
Brilliant
Hi, thanks for watching.
Good idea
Hi, thanks for watching.
Hi, what is the milling machine, plese tell me that it's a Nu-tool 12 speed? cheers P
Hi. thanks for watching, the milling machine is a 6 speed Warco Major GH.
Brilliant solution, I've seen it done on large lathes before, but never on the small the small import ones.
Hi, thanks for watching, I thought it was worth ago.
Flux capacitor next Paul?
Very enjoyable, thanks for sharing,
Cheers
Hi, I’ll get the wigets out of the way first. :-D
ingenious.
Only missing a morse taper in the spindel so you could insert a morse taper collet chuck too ;-)
Hi, Nice idea but I've got one in the tailstock, regards
@@Thesheddweller But for that you have to dismantle you 3-jaw-chuck again ;-)
Watch out for those red jumping maggots....deadly.
Hi, yeah it hit me on the chest and it was very greasy. thanks for watching
Did you consider chuck cam studs? Probably an easier mod.
Hi, I did consider many forms of rapid chuck change systems. Fitting a camlock system to this small lathe has one big problem, that is the chuck will extend further out from the headstock creating less ridgity and more vibration, on this lathe vibration is a problem. Using the coupled chuck system as I have explained in the video, evens the main slide wear along more of the main slide than in just one patch. Regards
as an open minded person, this is a unique solution, lot of very well done work, did you get the answer you expected?
Absolutely, I use it a lot. Cheers
👍👍👍
Hi, thanks for watching.
Howdy!
I'll say this only once:
It DOES NOT MATTER how accurately you "think" you have aligned the main spindle and your "auxiliary" shaft...
If you do not provide a flexible coupling between the primary shaft (machine spindle / main chuck) and the "auxiliary" shaft / second chuck, there will exist MASSIVE forces in all three axes, which, over time, will cause accelerated wear and stresses on the components.
You are free to doubt me, but you do so at your own peril.
Good luck, in any case...
Cheers,
Dave
ETA: If you doubt my statements, do a little research into shaft couplings and limits of precision in alignment of independent rotating machines.
'Nuff said...
Hi, you are so right and I do know this. I hope to make a parallel coupling for it next.
very nice video bravo
Hi, thanks for watching. thank you for your kind
322👍. 86 comments
Bravo !
Hi, thanks for watching
Donkey's ear 100% Great
hi, thanks pal
ACE
Cheers
you could have welded and trapanned the supports together then separated them
Hi, you’ve probably noticed… I don’t do welding too often, or too well.
Hey mate, why not just turn it on live centers like they used to, eh! No mistakes.
Hi, actually, in the good old days, engineers mostly used dead centres, and I actually made ‘that' offset stub axle between centres in a much earlier video. Cheers
Eat your heart out CNC men.
:-)
Brilliant!
Hi, thanks for watching. glad you enjoyed the video.
Brilliant!
Hi, thanks for watching. glad you enjoyed