you can get canadian hard rock maple shims that are not tapered and gain 2mm height back, simplem.. you can chamfer the corner of that saddle using a file as well... sand paper taped on a flat surface easy nuff.. don't be afeerd to get your hands dirty on therse upgrades and builds, FRANKLY, you need a SS base plate to get any transfer benefits from the stainless saddles, the junk metal the ltd base plate is made from will soak up and or destroy any tone benefit from the stainless saddles, then you post and anchors need to be stainless as well to bring it on home... tuning stability improves because the vibrations moving back and forth form saddle to nut has improved, there for the headstock is receivinga better signal or vibration.. a SS nut, locker and bolts is a big improvement as well, or Ti . . using all Ti is rediculous, I have a Charvel I am using an all titanium trem, plate, saddles, adjuster screws, posts and bolts, EVERYTHING, wooly mommoth tusk nut dialed in... and its something else, I can get harmonics anywhere on the fretboard, all the way up, if I pick an inch above the bridge I can get harmonics directly over the pups, anywhere really. its rediculous the harmonics that thing has, guitar is nothing special, its a 6 pt, alder body, maple neck, rosewood fingerboard, abalone star inlays for some reason maybe it was to be a Sambora neck? got it used off thebay.. has no floyd locking nut shelf tho so dunno really? body has a very very thin like 1 coat of lacquer, flaking here and there, its a square body if yuo know what that means, none of the endges were rounded over much at all, less than a mm... emm like that one Ibanez.. the guitar is rediculous to play cuz you feel so much in your hands even on the skinny strings, the A and G ARE farkin crazy, not the volume jsut the vibrations you feel in the hands and chest where body touches .. if you plug it into a amp with good harmonics it gets stupid real quick.. a guy never wants to put it down..> I'll wake up and someone has it on their lap snoozed out, prolly to get first dibs in the mornin? lol yea man titanium is real ncie, stainless is second to Ti IMO, or a combo, Ti plate, stainless saddles, bolts any mixture has different feels . . to me its more important than the wood, the strings sit RIGHT ON THE METAL not the WOOD! so obvioulsy it has a say of anything does right? also regarding this tone thing everyone bickers about, to set it stright ALL tone comes fromt he strings, hands, however, ANYTHING that vibnration touches has a chance to absorb it, so you pluck a string sitting ona metal saddle and nut.. if you can measure ALL the vibrations using spohisticated seismic tools and software, then record that data.. then mount said bridge and nut to a guitar and record again then compare, you will see some frequncies are missing, some arent lasting as long so on so forth, valume has diminished across all 6... thats because wood will absord and extinguish vibrations, its soft, ever notince they dont use metal to isloate vibrations, say on a motor mount? becasue metal doesnt abosrb as well as rubber, so they use rubber, if you moiunted siad bridge and nut to an all rubber body and neck, a whole bucnh of vibrations would be missing, it really absorbs vibration well.. so if you use this set up to rate various species of hardwoods or tonewoods as they say, you will find each one has its own damping characteristics.. it moves around with different woods, some dampen his more than another, some dampen mids more than another, highs, so on so forth NONE OF THE WOODS create vibrations, or ENHANCE, they dont, the only material we know of that deos that is bell bronze, and it has to be shaped a certain way, certain thickness and certain mixture, bronze is brass mixed with copper right? so there isa ration thats PERFECT for bells becasue it amplifies, not diminish like wood, were finidng the right Titanium can amplify as well, not create like bell bronze, but amplify.. if you play with the alloys you might find a magic ratio? who knows? they found it with bronze,, whenb I say create it can rearrange the vibrations to something other than what the string offers.. sorta like harmonics wher it changes it some what, bell bornze can take 3 or 4 frequencies and turn it into a single diffrent frequency not offered when the bell was struck, I am sure you heard, it... its why they can tune bells, of couse you know about xzylaphones, thats done with size and shape, notes, or barrel membranophone, shape and thickness tune, with bells you can alter somewhat with ratios, materials.. of course size matters to a degree, as does shape, but one cannot stray much from the bell shape before it begins to suffer loss and degridation, the idea is the exact opposite of loss and degridation, the idea is to amplify and tune.. lol
Yeah Buddy droppin' the K bombs, preach it friend! I'm pinning this so everyone can soak it up. I would love to see/hear that guitar, the description is amazing. Feel free to drop a link of your video showing it right here. :)
I did the same with the Floyd Rose Special on my Jackson SL4X Soloist. I used my Dremel to round the lower edges of the string clamps of the bridge. I got Titanium clamp inserts and a Floyd Rose FL TFR-TIN R3 Titanium Locking Nut R3. Now, I don't have issues anymore with the Floyd Rose on my Jackson SL4X Soloist. My advice : Don't over-tighten the screws which mount the saddles on the Floyd Rose bridge plate, otherwise you risk to strip the thread of the bridge plate, simply because the metal of the bridge plate is way way softer than the stainless steel of the screws. Also, don't over-tighten the clamps of the Titanium locking nut, because you will CUT your high B or E strings (unwound strings) ... believe me, it happened to me, until I realized that I didn't have to tighten the nut clamps too much before the high strings were locked to sustain any "trem abuse".
Great advice, yeah the harder metals bring a new set of potential problems for sure. I wanted to get the Titanium Nut but mine was made of steel so I was happy enough, just trying to get rid of the zinc as much as possible. It makes so much of a good difference I'll bet your Jackson plays like a dream. :)
@@peehandshihtzu You're most certainly right, I guess the Titanium nut and the Titanium bridge clamps inserts were probably a bit "over-kill" for the job.😆 Now, the parts which will "give up" sooner than later will be the bridge plate and the 2 pivot screws. I guess we can find such screws in very good quality metals like stainless steel, but it's a whole different game with the bridge plate, 'cause there's no stainless steel Floyd Rose bridge plate sold separately, so you got to be careful with that "soft metal" Floyd Rose Special bridge plate.
As a machinist for 30 years, I can tell you there is a reason to not having the threads go to the end of those licking screws. You dont need them for one, and if you dont have threads going to the end they wont be smashed and expanded so if you back them out the damaged threads wont damage the internal threads of the base plate.
I knew there was a reason why that trade does that I just wasn't sure of the purpose and wasn't going to speak to something I was unsure of. In this case I use those threads all the way to the base plate, so I do use them. I never cranked them down so hard as to cause such a problem as they are simply thumb screws for fine adjustability, not a fastener. Been playing with these type bridges for about 40 years and never saw the fine tuner threaded like this, not to say there aren't examples out there. Just saying on the 50+ different guitars that had the FR bridge that I personally have laid hands on they were always threaded to the hilt. But hey that's just my experience, there are millions of these things made by all sorts of manufacturers.
I wasn't talking about the ones under the head, I was referring to the ones at the end. It doesn't take much pressure to mushroom soft metal set screw so if it isn't well hardened grade five or better it can potentially mushroom and it would be in an area that you can't get to tofix that.
Harder material is exactly why I replaced these. I would have loved to do Titanium but who can really justify that, especially on a cheap guitar, LOL. :)@@randywollin5732
As far as adjusting intonation: I stopped using "The Key" almost a year ago, it constantly would get stuck after setting intonation on one string and was almost impossible to remove. I now use the VERY EXCELLENT Red Bishop Accu-Locator instead. Made in Japan by the parent company that owns Luminlay and crazy simple to use with a much easier design to work with. Definitely check it out if you haven't yet, and kiss "the key" goodbye.
Wow thats much much cleaner looking machining. Great video here. I miss my LTD 103 QM. I hate i sold it. It was one of the best I ever played once I got it set up.
Yeah I've been liking these a lot. Can't go wrong with these LTD's. I've even played with the lowest end ones and they still feel good in the hand and have a nice balance output. :)
You have achieved a feat, changing floating bridge is no easy task, I have hard time changing only the strings bro. Thanks Buddy for explaining how floyed rose is adjusted, I bet such detailed video isn't avl here. Lastly bro, you have really nice onscreen presence and talking skills, super likeable!
Thanks friend, I've found the more I work with this thing the less of a pain it is to tune up. I really dig these saddles, feel nice under the palm. Thanks for the kind words, I may do more about some different pieces of gear I own while I write new material. So good to hear from you buddy, I really enjoyed yesterdays song you uploaded, I is fire. I meant to write more but was being interrupted by life at the time, LOL. :)
Very useful video, thanks. I’ve been looking to upgrade all these parts on my special. I’m also going to try a stopper instead of the middle spring. It’s supposed to make a massive difference to the stability. 👍
Thanks, I've wondered about the stoppers too. There is also a precision adjustment spring claw I have my eye on that allows the spring tension to be changed with the turn of a single Allen key instead of two independent screws. I mean I can imagine some potential pros and cons but the tough part is justifying it as I pretty much keep this guitar in the same tuning all the time. The stopper on the other hand seems like it would be useful all the time. :)
@@peehandshihtzu yea I agree the stoppers don’t seem to have anything negative said about them, just all good reports about the improvements. Seems to make it nigh on 100% stable which would be nice 😂
Very nice video. Upgrading a Jackson by Floyd Rose now. Noticed that the by floyd rose saddles are not compatible with licensed by saddles. Also the "by" saddles are quite a bit more than the special saddles . Still cheap but 40% more in gold at least. Not sure why they are more than specials as they are cheap zinc as well. Saw some Made in japan SS saddles and complete trems. For the price I might try that setup. Hard putting more in the bridge than I paid for the guitar. May try brass block too before I look at pickups. Have a feeling it may be unnecessary with quality hardware. Good audio and great video. Could really see the details between the two🤘
If you need threads all the way up the fine tuner, you probably should release the nut clap and reset your tuning or change your strings anyway. Nice video, but how did it affect the sound???
Thanks, why would one want to do that prematurely if they didn't have to would be my question, these are the only ones I ever saw like this, seems more likely it was an oversight on their part. I agree though, that's the inevitable chore especially regarding a new set of strings. One can only pre stretch them so much before locking them down and then you get a small about of threads before you have to reset. I'm half deaf so I can't really say it changed my tone, LOL. What is clear is how much better my tuner tracks, so there is a better intonation of fundamental frequencies in some way. :)
@peehandshihtzu very cool. I have some of these on my Epiphone Les Paul Access. Building another guitar with a flatter fingerboard radius and ordered matching saddles from Schaller directly. I might make a video on the entire build, but it's taking a long time to get all the parts together from around the world. So far Switzerland, Germany, France, and Japan. Ive got more time than talent or money... 😁
For real, LOL. That's cool your dialing in the radius's, Bet it turns out sic. I subbed you just in case you upload that video. :)@@onlyfromadistance7326
@peehandshihtzu wow. Wasn't notified of your second response. An my next comment was deleted. Just wanted to tell you about the STRING STRECHA. EVH'S guitar tech brought this up. Great tool!
So can you please tell me, where does one get those titanium saddle, coincadencly I just striped-out one of those Floyd rose "special" and it was too easy to do, this was just 3 hours ago!
the real weakness of floyd special is the knife edges/baseplate, wears out fairly quickly due to softer steel, the performance of the floyd special should be fine until it starts to wear
Nice video! I tried the DOPRO (instead of the Kaish branded) stainless steel inserts and fine tuners off of Amazon. So far so good with the inserts but at the moment I'm using FR brass fine tuners instead. Might try the stainless fine tuners again though, you never know. Interesting info on those saddles!
The non threaded tips on those screws made up for non threaded section under the head, giving you the same amount of travel. Well... until you ground them off.
The things stuck up ridiculously high and only like 3 turns were were actually usable. I think this is the weak link and ordered some stainless ones that follow the patent that are just solid threads.
Unfortunately I cannot find my calipers, it's driving me nuts. But I can tell you they are the same as a typical, most common FR Special. Pretty sure the FR website has technical diagrams that can help. :)
@@ankush2801 Floyd Rose, All Parts, Graph Tech, FU Tone sites will all have good options. Musicians Friend & Sweetwater will have a selection also. Even Amazon will have some cheap replacements that work. Good luck and happy playing.
Nice new saddles. But I dont like the sharp edge on the front corners of each saddle right where your palm muting occurs... They need to fix that because there is no need to have that sharp edge there
@@weedhunter6681 That's awesome bro, I hope you find the folks you want. This video gets more hate than it does love, LOL. Seriously someone actually threatened me the other day, over a FR upgrade, LOL. They have no idea, no idea. :)
@@peehandshihtzu social media bro, you get views you win, I highly recommend you do more gear related videos, you got super likeable onscreen presence and good voice too
you can get canadian hard rock maple shims that are not tapered and gain 2mm height back, simplem.. you can chamfer the corner of that saddle using a file as well... sand paper taped on a flat surface easy nuff.. don't be afeerd to get your hands dirty on therse upgrades and builds, FRANKLY, you need a SS base plate to get any transfer benefits from the stainless saddles, the junk metal the ltd base plate is made from will soak up and or destroy any tone benefit from the stainless saddles, then you post and anchors need to be stainless as well to bring it on home... tuning stability improves because the vibrations moving back and forth form saddle to nut has improved, there for the headstock is receivinga better signal or vibration.. a SS nut, locker and bolts is a big improvement as well, or Ti . . using all Ti is rediculous,
I have a Charvel I am using an all titanium trem, plate, saddles, adjuster screws, posts and bolts, EVERYTHING, wooly mommoth tusk nut dialed in... and its something else, I can get harmonics anywhere on the fretboard, all the way up, if I pick an inch above the bridge I can get harmonics directly over the pups, anywhere really. its rediculous the harmonics that thing has, guitar is nothing special, its a 6 pt, alder body, maple neck, rosewood fingerboard, abalone star inlays for some reason maybe it was to be a Sambora neck? got it used off thebay.. has no floyd locking nut shelf tho so dunno really? body has a very very thin like 1 coat of lacquer, flaking here and there, its a square body if yuo know what that means, none of the endges were rounded over much at all, less than a mm... emm like that one Ibanez.. the guitar is rediculous to play cuz you feel so much in your hands even on the skinny strings, the A and G ARE farkin crazy, not the volume jsut the vibrations you feel in the hands and chest where body touches ..
if you plug it into a amp with good harmonics it gets stupid real quick.. a guy never wants to put it down..> I'll wake up and someone has it on their lap snoozed out, prolly to get first dibs in the mornin? lol yea man titanium is real ncie, stainless is second to Ti IMO, or a combo, Ti plate, stainless saddles, bolts any mixture has different feels . . to me its more important than the wood, the strings sit RIGHT ON THE METAL not the WOOD! so obvioulsy it has a say of anything does right?
also regarding this tone thing everyone bickers about, to set it stright ALL tone comes fromt he strings, hands, however, ANYTHING that vibnration touches has a chance to absorb it, so you pluck a string sitting ona metal saddle and nut.. if you can measure ALL the vibrations using spohisticated seismic tools and software, then record that data.. then mount said bridge and nut to a guitar and record again then compare, you will see some frequncies are missing, some arent lasting as long so on so forth, valume has diminished across all 6... thats because wood will absord and extinguish vibrations, its soft, ever notince they dont use metal to isloate vibrations, say on a motor mount? becasue metal doesnt abosrb as well as rubber, so they use rubber, if you moiunted siad bridge and nut to an all rubber body and neck, a whole bucnh of vibrations would be missing, it really absorbs vibration well..
so if you use this set up to rate various species of hardwoods or tonewoods as they say, you will find each one has its own damping characteristics.. it moves around with different woods, some dampen his more than another, some dampen mids more than another, highs, so on so forth
NONE OF THE WOODS create vibrations, or ENHANCE, they dont, the only material we know of that deos that is bell bronze, and it has to be shaped a certain way, certain thickness and certain mixture, bronze is brass mixed with copper right? so there isa ration thats PERFECT for bells becasue it amplifies, not diminish like wood, were finidng the right Titanium can amplify as well, not create like bell bronze, but amplify.. if you play with the alloys you might find a magic ratio? who knows? they found it with bronze,, whenb I say create it can rearrange the vibrations to something other than what the string offers.. sorta like harmonics wher it changes it some what, bell bornze can take 3 or 4 frequencies and turn it into a single diffrent frequency not offered when the bell was struck, I am sure you heard, it... its why they can tune bells, of couse you know about xzylaphones, thats done with size and shape, notes, or barrel membranophone, shape and thickness tune, with bells you can alter somewhat with ratios, materials.. of course size matters to a degree, as does shape, but one cannot stray much from the bell shape before it begins to suffer loss and degridation, the idea is the exact opposite of loss and degridation, the idea is to amplify and tune.. lol
Yeah Buddy droppin' the K bombs, preach it friend! I'm pinning this so everyone can soak it up. I would love to see/hear that guitar, the description is amazing. Feel free to drop a link of your video showing it right here. :)
I did the same with the Floyd Rose Special on my Jackson SL4X Soloist.
I used my Dremel to round the lower edges of the string clamps of the bridge.
I got Titanium clamp inserts and a Floyd Rose FL TFR-TIN R3 Titanium Locking Nut R3.
Now, I don't have issues anymore with the Floyd Rose on my Jackson SL4X Soloist.
My advice : Don't over-tighten the screws which mount the saddles on the Floyd Rose bridge plate, otherwise you risk to strip the thread of the bridge plate, simply because the metal of the bridge plate is way way softer than the stainless steel of the screws.
Also, don't over-tighten the clamps of the Titanium locking nut, because you will CUT your high B or E strings (unwound strings) ... believe me, it happened to me, until I realized that I didn't have to tighten the nut clamps too much before the high strings were locked to sustain any "trem abuse".
Great advice, yeah the harder metals bring a new set of potential problems for sure. I wanted to get the Titanium Nut but mine was made of steel so I was happy enough, just trying to get rid of the zinc as much as possible. It makes so much of a good difference I'll bet your Jackson plays like a dream. :)
@@peehandshihtzu
You're most certainly right, I guess the Titanium nut and the Titanium bridge clamps inserts were probably a bit "over-kill" for the job.😆
Now, the parts which will "give up" sooner than later will be the bridge plate and the 2 pivot screws. I guess we can find such screws in very good quality metals like stainless steel, but it's a whole different game with the bridge plate, 'cause there's no stainless steel Floyd Rose bridge plate sold separately, so you got to be careful with that "soft metal" Floyd Rose Special bridge plate.
When it comes to guitars overkill for the job is the goal, LOL 😂@@TheWorstManOnEarth
As a machinist for 30 years, I can tell you there is a reason to not having the threads go to the end of those licking screws. You dont need them for one, and if you dont have threads going to the end they wont be smashed and expanded so if you back them out the damaged threads wont damage the internal threads of the base plate.
I knew there was a reason why that trade does that I just wasn't sure of the purpose and wasn't going to speak to something I was unsure of. In this case I use those threads all the way to the base plate, so I do use them. I never cranked them down so hard as to cause such a problem as they are simply thumb screws for fine adjustability, not a fastener.
Been playing with these type bridges for about 40 years and never saw the fine tuner threaded like this, not to say there aren't examples out there. Just saying on the 50+ different guitars that had the FR bridge that I personally have laid hands on they were always threaded to the hilt. But hey that's just my experience, there are millions of these things made by all sorts of manufacturers.
I wasn't talking about the ones under the head, I was referring to the ones at the end. It doesn't take much pressure to mushroom soft metal set screw so if it isn't well hardened grade five or better it can potentially mushroom and it would be in an area that you can't get to tofix that.
Harder material is exactly why I replaced these. I would have loved to do Titanium but who can really justify that, especially on a cheap guitar, LOL. :)@@randywollin5732
Great up-close filming and awesome upgrades here and I enjoyed this informative video!!
Thanks my friend, it was worth the time and money. Cheerz to 2024! :)
As far as adjusting intonation: I stopped using "The Key" almost a year ago, it constantly would get stuck after setting intonation on one string and was almost impossible to remove. I now use the VERY EXCELLENT Red Bishop Accu-Locator instead. Made in Japan by the parent company that owns Luminlay and crazy simple to use with a much easier design to work with. Definitely check it out if you haven't yet, and kiss "the key" goodbye.
Good info I actually came across those and they look a lot better suited. Yeah the key only get me so far. I'll have to get one. :)
Wow thats much much cleaner looking machining. Great video here. I miss my LTD 103 QM. I hate i sold it. It was one of the best I ever played once I got it set up.
Yeah I've been liking these a lot. Can't go wrong with these LTD's. I've even played with the lowest end ones and they still feel good in the hand and have a nice balance output. :)
Thank you for your instruction. I really should know more about these things. Hope your Christmas was nice.
You too and looking forward to a happy new year! :)
You have achieved a feat, changing floating bridge is no easy task, I have hard time changing only the strings bro.
Thanks Buddy for explaining how floyed rose is adjusted, I bet such detailed video isn't avl here.
Lastly bro, you have really nice onscreen presence and talking skills, super likeable!
Thanks friend, I've found the more I work with this thing the less of a pain it is to tune up. I really dig these saddles, feel nice under the palm. Thanks for the kind words, I may do more about some different pieces of gear I own while I write new material. So good to hear from you buddy, I really enjoyed yesterdays song you uploaded, I is fire. I meant to write more but was being interrupted by life at the time, LOL. :)
@@peehandshihtzu your giving this guitar an identity, the more you customize more often u play... \m/
Ha! You read my mind, that's the idea anyway. :)@@weedhunter6681
Very useful video, thanks.
I’ve been looking to upgrade all these parts on my special.
I’m also going to try a stopper instead of the middle spring. It’s supposed to make a massive difference to the stability. 👍
Thanks, I've wondered about the stoppers too. There is also a precision adjustment spring claw I have my eye on that allows the spring tension to be changed with the turn of a single Allen key instead of two independent screws. I mean I can imagine some potential pros and cons but the tough part is justifying it as I pretty much keep this guitar in the same tuning all the time. The stopper on the other hand seems like it would be useful all the time. :)
@@peehandshihtzu yea I agree the stoppers don’t seem to have anything negative said about them, just all good reports about the improvements. Seems to make it nigh on 100% stable which would be nice 😂
Spot on. :)@@waynehughes8297
the FL looks set up to perfection ! very nice upgrades
Thank Man, I never put much stock in them before but the guitar is a whole different beast with these upgrades. Plus I love tinkering with stuff. :)
Very nice video. Upgrading a Jackson by Floyd Rose now. Noticed that the by floyd rose saddles are not compatible with licensed by saddles. Also the "by" saddles are quite a bit more than the special saddles . Still cheap but 40% more in gold at least. Not sure why they are more than specials as they are cheap zinc as well.
Saw some Made in japan SS saddles and complete trems. For the price I might try that setup. Hard putting more in the bridge than I paid for the guitar. May try brass block too before I look at pickups. Have a feeling it may be unnecessary with quality hardware. Good audio and great video. Could really see the details between the two🤘
Thanks good luck, happy playing! :)
If you need threads all the way up the fine tuner, you probably should release the nut clap and reset your tuning or change your strings anyway. Nice video, but how did it affect the sound???
Thanks, why would one want to do that prematurely if they didn't have to would be my question, these are the only ones I ever saw like this, seems more likely it was an oversight on their part. I agree though, that's the inevitable chore especially regarding a new set of strings. One can only pre stretch them so much before locking them down and then you get a small about of threads before you have to reset. I'm half deaf so I can't really say it changed my tone, LOL. What is clear is how much better my tuner tracks, so there is a better intonation of fundamental frequencies in some way. :)
@peehandshihtzu very cool. I have some of these on my Epiphone Les Paul Access. Building another guitar with a flatter fingerboard radius and ordered matching saddles from Schaller directly. I might make a video on the entire build, but it's taking a long time to get all the parts together from around the world. So far Switzerland, Germany, France, and Japan. Ive got more time than talent or money... 😁
For real, LOL. That's cool your dialing in the radius's, Bet it turns out sic. I subbed you just in case you upload that video. :)@@onlyfromadistance7326
@peehandshihtzu wow. Wasn't notified of your second response. An my next comment was deleted. Just wanted to tell you about the STRING STRECHA. EVH'S guitar tech brought this up. Great tool!
@@peehandshihtzu Tom Webber EVH setup video
So can you please tell me, where does one get those titanium saddle, coincadencly I just striped-out one of those Floyd rose "special" and it was too easy to do, this was just 3 hours ago!
I got mine from Amazon. So sorry about your luck, Floyd Rose should be ashamed of themselves. :)
the real weakness of floyd special is the knife edges/baseplate, wears out fairly quickly due to softer steel, the performance of the floyd special should be fine until it starts to wear
Good to know, i had wondered about that. :)
Nice video! I tried the DOPRO (instead of the Kaish branded) stainless steel inserts and fine tuners off of Amazon. So far so good with the inserts but at the moment I'm using FR brass fine tuners instead. Might try the stainless fine tuners again though, you never know. Interesting info on those saddles!
Thanks, yeah seems like brass would be nice too. Anything but zinc. :)
The non threaded tips on those screws made up for non threaded section under the head, giving you the same amount of travel. Well... until you ground them off.
The things stuck up ridiculously high and only like 3 turns were were actually usable. I think this is the weak link and ordered some stainless ones that follow the patent that are just solid threads.
What is the string to string spacing in these saddles???
Unfortunately I cannot find my calipers, it's driving me nuts. But I can tell you they are the same as a typical, most common FR Special. Pretty sure the FR website has technical diagrams that can help. :)
@@peehandshihtzu actually my fr special saddles are broken so can't find a proper saddle to fix it
@@ankush2801 Floyd Rose, All Parts, Graph Tech, FU Tone sites will all have good options. Musicians Friend & Sweetwater will have a selection also. Even Amazon will have some cheap replacements that work. Good luck and happy playing.
Merry Christmas Buddy ❤❤❤
Merry Christmas Awad! :)
Nice new saddles.
But I dont like the sharp edge on the front corners of each saddle right where your palm muting occurs...
They need to fix that because there is no need to have that sharp edge there
Agreed, there are some things they could do to improve these and bring them into the premium realm, the bones are good tho. :)
Man this guitar looks cool!
Thanks, I almost got the green one but I'm glad I got this one. :)
You are creative with your content sir
Thank you very much. :)
I gotta korean floyd on my dinky and works good for light work.
Even these ones I replaced were decent, now they are just a bit better, gave me a chance to upload another video too, LOL. :)
Great 🙂👍🔔
Thanks. :)
You could also grind the back yourself.
That's what I did, was pretty easy. :)
if that trem is made by floyd rose for esp the baseplate might be more like fr 1000 because esp demands quality
It is steel, not sure of what quality though. :)
Me Lee, what yr upto these days ☺
Not a lot how are you my Friend??? :)
I'm going good bruh, trying to find band mates for a serious project.
You guitar tech videos are doing good I just noticed, keep em coming Buddy
@@weedhunter6681 That's awesome bro, I hope you find the folks you want. This video gets more hate than it does love, LOL. Seriously someone actually threatened me the other day, over a FR upgrade, LOL. They have no idea, no idea. :)
@@peehandshihtzu my comment got deleted by ytube, reposting lol
@@peehandshihtzu social media bro, you get views you win,
I highly recommend you do more gear related videos, you got super likeable onscreen presence and good voice too