Nice to see someone putting up a video of floating step construction in Australia. I guess the principle would be the same for deeper steps with say 800mm treads and and longer cantilever to give a better impression of the steps actually floating. I've got a job coming up where the client wants treads that are 1m x 1m and offset, meandering up the slope to the entrance door. It's going to be tricky for me as I've never built floating steps before. So thanks again, i feel more confident now! You're doing great work! Onya mate!!!
Don’t build them the way I did in this video. You build every second step. For the shadow line on second pour you build up off previously poured step. I use 5mm foam with 12mm ply to create a 17mm shadow line.
Looks good. Different approach. So the floating concrete just sits on the existing stair case ? Was there any reo drilled in the existing concrete to hold onto floating part ?
Yeah mate, reo was drilled in. We don't do it this way anymore. Just did it that way to try it out. We still pour it 2x pours but we pour every second step instead.
Great job Is there any steel reinforcement ? If not is it strong enough at the cantlivar section? What about bonding old with the new concrete? Sorry if it was long questions Thanks for sharing
unfortunately I was not there during the pour, my work sat there for 3 months before they poured it! We offered to pour it but the builder also wanted foot paths and driveways poured which I don't do or have time to do. It is supposed to be scabbled (roughed up) and then bars drilled in and glued. Plus mesh. I hope it was done correctly but I suspect maybe it wasn't as there is some vertical cracks which says there are no horizontal bars... 🤔
Hey mate, that cantilever board you put in, did you put a couple of fixings into the strip you concrete nailed on or just let it sit there and let the strong back with kickers take care of that?
I think a longer cantilever, maybe twice as long, so that you can't actually see the back of the riser from a normal angle, would look a bit more refined.
Good question, I used to do it that way for many years but the way in my videos is much much quicker and easier. Reason is I don't need to fix into concrete/brick ect with a hammer drill 3-4 times each side for every rise. I do about 5 per side for my backing board. So a 20rise set might have 160 fixings into wall vs 10-20 with my method. That's 140 less holes to drill which ate nail gunned instead. I can nail 2 nails a second vs drilling about 1 hole a minute. It is more accurate too because the riser can move when drilling. This does not happen with nail gun. Also you have more room for error with your riser lengths, you don't have to make them as tight for them to install easy.
Good video mate, good explanation on what you are doing. Have you got any videos where you freeform the stairs (steps) or do you always put rough steps under your floating a steps? Cheers and keep up the great work.
I only built them this way as this is the way the concretors wanted it done. You can pour them all in one but not recommended. Best way is to pour every second step. As soon as I get a set I will definitely make a video.
I would like you to talk a bit about stripping these forms. It seems, as do your other infill stair forming videos, that it may be hard to strip the forms. Any footage?
Where ply join is, I just use a multitool and sabre saw to cut an opening for crow bar. if you don't have the tools just leave an opening and put a peice of thin tin over the opening so you have room for crow bar. but this will not give a nice straight edge to the stairs. I chose to prioritise the finish knowing the stripping will be harder. In future I'd leave a gap but either either. No need to pull nails as they are not imbedded into the conc much.
I thought the best in the West or the only ones in the world. That knew how to do this
😂
Not the same. Besides BinW doesn't pour stairs twice. They can finish in few days.
Hahahah burrrnnnn
Lol!!
Nice to see someone putting up a video of floating step construction in Australia. I guess the principle would be the same for deeper steps with say 800mm treads and and longer cantilever to give a better impression of the steps actually floating. I've got a job coming up where the client wants treads that are 1m x 1m and offset, meandering up the slope to the entrance door. It's going to be tricky for me as I've never built floating steps before. So thanks again, i feel more confident now! You're doing great work! Onya mate!!!
Don’t build them the way I did in this video. You build every second step. For the shadow line on second pour you build up off previously poured step. I use 5mm foam with 12mm ply to create a 17mm shadow line.
Haha! I was wondering about that. I watched a few other videos and got the idea.
Keep up the great work. Your correct if pour them yourself you will be come a great stair former. If you care about quality.
Thanks for sharing. Wish all concretors were as thorough. Like what you're using as release agent, easy peasy.
Thanks
I live in Russia. I'm making concrete stairs. I am very interested in watching your videos. Thank you very much!
Спасибо
Form work is fun and therapeutic great work guys !!
I enjoy it
Friggen Art ..talk about a good job.👍🏻⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Thanks
I've learnt a lot from your videos. Keep going, nice work.
Love from Nigeria.
Thanks bro
Awesome clip mate great work. 👍 keep them coming
Thankyou
Great video! Can you please share the sizes of the finished steps ? Trying to recreate this look but want to ensure proportions are right. Thank you!
great technique sir.
Thx
Thanks for the video, wished you showed the pouring and fixing
Unfortunately that's not what we do
Really appreciate your vids, formwork really can do my head in at times!
no worries!
Love your detailed explanations. Well curated video.
Thanks mate
wicked mate thanks
Cheers
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 be well outstanding job
You'd also have to scarify the treads and use bonding agent this will only last in your weather conditions in aussieland
Hopefully they did when they installed the reo
Hey mate, awesome video! How the little bits go that were nailed into the concrete coming out?
Is that where strip lighting was mounted?
Yeah it wasn’t great getting them out. Better way is to pour every second step
Well done sir sir 👍👍👍
Thank you sir
Awesome work - thanks
No problem
I like that you can so seamlessly join stairs/planters and other areas of the landscaping together 👍👍
chur
Good job mate, salute
Ta
Great Video very informative, what laser level do you use?
I use Hilti
Love your work 🤙
Thx
How deep should the rebate be under the step mate? I’m doing some; I was thinking 20mm gap and wasn’t sure how far under the step it should go
You can do it any size you like. It looks best if it’s 20mm high and about 100mm deep
Awesome!
It helps so much to see different ways of doing formwork! Great content!! Thank you
Thanks for watching!
Looks good. Different approach. So the floating concrete just sits on the existing stair case ? Was there any reo drilled in the existing concrete to hold onto floating part ?
Yeah mate, reo was drilled in. We don't do it this way anymore. Just did it that way to try it out. We still pour it 2x pours but we pour every second step instead.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 ah yes. Ok second step method, I've seen that one too. Thanks for the reply.
Great job
Is there any steel reinforcement ?
If not is it strong enough at the cantlivar section?
What about bonding old with the new concrete?
Sorry if it was long questions
Thanks for sharing
unfortunately I was not there during the pour, my work sat there for 3 months before they poured it! We offered to pour it but the builder also wanted foot paths and driveways poured which I don't do or have time to do. It is supposed to be scabbled (roughed up) and then bars drilled in and glued. Plus mesh. I hope it was done correctly but I suspect maybe it wasn't as there is some vertical cracks which says there are no horizontal bars... 🤔
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 oh oh
👍 good questions
Hey mate, that cantilever board you put in, did you put a couple of fixings into the strip you concrete nailed on or just let it sit there and let the strong back with kickers take care of that?
We fixed it in. This is not the only way to build this type of stair though.
love your videos my man 💪 just wondering what's the laser model you're using there for the stairs?
I use a hilti
Great work .
Thx
Fantastic as always! Keep up the awesome work (y)
Thanks cobber
I think a longer cantilever, maybe twice as long, so that you can't actually see the back of the riser from a normal angle, would look a bit more refined.
Definitely, we do what ever the client asks for
what about a Cantilever overhang on a concrete landing, do it 2 pours or one?
Goal is to always do things in one pour.
Hey mate if you were to put led lights under the over hanging steps how eide should the gap be ?
Doesn't matter. You just cast the lights in
Dude it looks amazing!!!
cheers
Really neat stuff. Do you have any suggestions about any books that can support the style of work you do? Thx
No books exist that I know of.
Can I ask what’s the overhang size (height & depth) you have there?
Overhang I think was 120mm, rise was 170mm, rebate depth was 30mm I think
How come you always add thay stringer board along the sides rather than just fastening your backing which is attached to riser direct to the wall?
Good question, I used to do it that way for many years but the way in my videos is much much quicker and easier. Reason is I don't need to fix into concrete/brick ect with a hammer drill 3-4 times each side for every rise. I do about 5 per side for my backing board. So a 20rise set might have 160 fixings into wall vs 10-20 with my method. That's 140 less holes to drill which ate nail gunned instead. I can nail 2 nails a second vs drilling about 1 hole a minute. It is more accurate too because the riser can move when drilling. This does not happen with nail gun. Also you have more room for error with your riser lengths, you don't have to make them as tight for them to install easy.
Mate great job well done, Thanks for your video 👍
no worries mate
Bro what is the best mixture ratio for concrete form work bro
Depends on the Formwork, are you asking about walls or stairs or suspend’s
Good video mate, good explanation on what you are doing. Have you got any videos where you freeform the stairs (steps) or do you always put rough steps under your floating a steps? Cheers and keep up the great work.
I only built them this way as this is the way the concretors wanted it done. You can pour them all in one but not recommended. Best way is to pour every second step. As soon as I get a set I will definitely make a video.
Hey what brand laser is this?
Geo fennel
keep them coming so educational for novices
Will do mate!
Very nice job .. what If I want to do a floating stairs with porcelain finish.. how is the construction will differ
would differ quite a bit as it would not be as important to be accurate.
Hello nice video .please what did you spray on the form work exactly to ensure a nice finish when you remove the form work?
I use 2 products. 1 is a lanolin product by lanotec but you can use any lanolin. 2. Is a diesel based product by sika. Diesel works well on its own.
No video of the pouring process or video at night with the lights on???
No sorry
Wowwwww nice men
👍
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 follow menmen
Mate love the content keep it coming.
Thanks Gary, will do
This can all be mono poured at once why to have two pours and risking cold joint cracking.
never seen a scissor lift for a laser before gonna get me one
look up geofennel accessories brother. I have upgraded to a hilti laser and always wish i kept this scissor lift when I sold that geofennel laser.
I would like you to talk a bit about stripping these forms. It seems, as do your other infill stair forming videos, that it may be hard to strip the forms. Any footage?
Hi Anna, please see my latest video
Where are you from?
Australia
Hey just a quick question, did you put any reobar to tie in the floating stairs to the base stairs?
I dont install rebar, the concretors do this just before they pour. but yes hopefully there is rebar. if not it will crack
How did you remove the ply pieces underneath each step?
It looked like there would be very little room to get a nail puller in to remove the nails
Where ply join is, I just use a multitool and sabre saw to cut an opening for crow bar. if you don't have the tools just leave an opening and put a peice of thin tin over the opening so you have room for crow bar. but this will not give a nice straight edge to the stairs. I chose to prioritise the finish knowing the stripping will be harder. In future I'd leave a gap but either either. No need to pull nails as they are not imbedded into the conc much.
Where's the handrails for old people, children, and clumsy oafs like me?
I suppose they go in after I film.
How did you remove the molds?
remove nails and pull it off
👌🏻👌🏻😎
👍
Hi where u based ? Are u in Sydney ?
Do you have a website or contact number ?
in Perth, John
0475309553. no website anymore I don't really advertise, just get spam
10 years from now Australians will still be saying ..."because of COVID, we can't do....."
oh man I hope not!