I bought a Browning Nomad Stalker at a garage sale when I was 9…39 years ago. Shot my first archery deer with it and a Bear Razor head on a 2216 game getter. I still have it. 48@28 52” AMO
Wow when I clicked on this I thought it was just going to be some guy tinkering with some sandpaper and some kind of finish, but you're like this pro bow-refinishing dude. Really good video!
Thanks for sharing this. I have the same bow except in 50#. I've been considering returning to hunting with it and I to had painted mine many years ago. Yes the original finish was very shiny and after trying camo tape and limb socks gave up and painted what had been a beautiful bow. Good to hear the weight has remained pretty much as marked, I've yet to test mine. I'll soon be turning 70 and will have to see how my old shoulders deal with it. Great video, and information.
I’m sure it will still shoot as good as it did last time you used it. It seems like camo paint is becoming popular again so you made it full circle. I’m sure if you need to drop the weight a few pounds you can sand the edges of the limbs a little. Just make sure to count strokes so the tiller doesn’t change and everything stays even. Good luck and happy hunting
True. If you have one it's just a little special. I have a 3 lam myself. She's old as the trees and shoots like the breeze. wouldn't give her up, never.
That would be great. Is your Alaskan one that doesn’t have a lot of recurve in the limbs? I think they called them semi recurves. I’ve always wanted to shoot one to see if it has more of a hybrid longbow feel. Good luck on your restoration.
@@Makingitwild No this one is heavily recurved, looks allot like a modern bear. It's in amazing shape, I honestly don't know if it's been refinished before but I'd like to put a new finish on it and really take my time to get it perfect.
Well done 😊 I have a Gen I Browning D shaped wheel bow, and you are right, it's shiny. I also have a Wing Archery White Wing recurve in way worse shape than your project. No matter how much I work that crooked limb, it's still crooked ... So I'm going to cut the limbs off both and route pockets for some no-name bamboo core take-down limbs. Very hard to get center sections that have comfortable grips and good arrow shelves out of the orient. But old USA bows like these are comfy and the centers are strong enough to handle 45# rated limbs , so why not 😁
You Probably could have used the Just by the limb tip overlays I see older Dynamo--77/D--77string that is not the Dynamo--97/D--97 but an older hard to find string material even for making own string. The bows outer finish should not be a Satin as this tends to make the most slick bows on the market. I would use a Matt or a Semi-Gloss due to how Satin is slick on the bow I have, a OEELINE Airobow the one piece 54 inch bow. One way that takes a bit for a fix like a micro/mini warp is to keep the string on the bow every other day for about a year.
Great video Ty, thank you. I have a vintage Bear Kodiak that has been spray painted and I want to take it back to the original finish. Will the acetone attack the finish or just the spray paint?
As long as you work a small area at a time and don’t put too much acetone it shouldn’t eat the finish. The spray paint will come off pretty easy so I just put the acetone on the rag. Good luck. I hope it turns out great.
This is awesome, my dad has an old browning explorer he bought years ago cheap which looks exactly the same as this bow. One of the tips is delaminating a little bit. What would you do to it to make it safe to shoot? Id like to fix it for him. Is it a big deal for small delamination and can it be fixed
If it’s not delaminated too bad you can use the other limb to pattern a form and glue it up. You will probably need to tiller the bow again but will work. Make sure to use a glue that can flex like smooth on or other bow glued. I’ve heard of people using gorilla glue but I haven’t tried it. I hope this helps a little. Let me know how it turns out.
I would never think of sanding the finish on a nice vintage bow like that unless it was really bad shape and needed to be replaced but its your bow so to each his own. B55 is a good bowstring. Most people who use it are pleasantly surprised. What has been your thoughts of B55 on this bow? Your refinish job looks really nice!
If it was a rare or expensive bow I would be a little more cautious about removing the original finish but there isn’t anything too special about that bow. B55 is a good replacement to the old B50 or what everyone just called Dacron. It doesn’t stretch as much but is still safe for most bows that couldn’t handle more performance string material
Hi... I found a bow in my basement too... I was wondering if after sanding it would be good idea to give it a hand or two of oil... so wood doesn't brittle (it's a pretty old bow). Finally after drying it, apply some finish. I notice you just fixed the finish but you didn't put any oil on yours. What do you think?
If the limbs are dry and brittle I would be a little worried about shooting it because it will probably break. Usually if the bow has fiberglass on the back and belly the laminations will separate before that happens. If its just the riser that is a little dry the best thing to do is sand it smooth and then apply thin superglue all over it to seal it and fill in any cracks. You can do this a few times sanding between coats. Once everything is the way you want it you can use a finish after the last sanding.
Is there a easier preferably in a can that I can use to coat my bow after sanding that would work as well as what you did would love to get a similar appearance but I don’t have a spray gun and stuff awesome well explained video gets me motivated thanks again
The first dozen bows I made I just used spray polyurethane you can get at any hardware store or even Walmart. It holds up and look great as long as you keep it out of the weather. I left a bow out in the rain once to test it and it still held up. Some people use Diamond clear coat made for rims. They have that at most parts stores but I've never tried it. From what I've heard it works really well but has a longer drying time between coats. I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@Makingitwild Have you done any with tung oil like you mentioned in the video? I just found an old bow I remember from childhood and just started sanding last night, which is how i landed here. Anyway, I typically treat my axe handle etc. with boiled linseed oil. I just don't really care for the feel of a lacquer. Was wondering if you had any input on that. I think it should be fine other than extended outdoor use.
@@abcxyz9643 I did one with tung oil a long time ago and it seemed to do just fine. I also use boiled linseed for hammer handles and axe handles. I think it would work just fine but you would need to reapply it often. It also tends to hold dirt and oils off your hands so that’s just something to keep in mind but it’s worth a shot. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
@@Makingitwild So I started the sanding last night. Got all the old finish and dirt off. Riser looks so much better with the nice wood grain showing. Its a Ben Pearson Cougar by the way. I believe the front and back are both fiberglass. I sanded down the edges of the limbs and the sand paper definitely put some scratches in the glass. At one point I was brushing the dust off and I found a small splinter broke off from one of the edges. I do not believe it is enough to make a structural problem for the limbs, however I am now nervous to sand the finish off of the top and bottom of the limbs. I also want to make sure I stop those small problems from turning into big problems. I was thinking I might try to apply epoxy to those small areas. If you have any advice specifically for the fiberglass portions I would really appreciate hearing it. I have some homemade walnut husk stain I think I might apply once its ready. I still have some aesthetic decisions to make though.
@@abcxyz9643 The best way I’ve found to take care of those small splinters is to sand the big part of it off and then put superglue (CA glue) on it and sand it smooth so it can’t hang up on anything. When you are sanding it, work your way towards the limb tip sanding in only one direction. This keeps the sand paper from catching the fibers in the fiberglass. Try not to sand too much off because it will change the tiller of the bow. If it’s bad enough you will need to take the same amount off the other limb. You will also loose a little draw weight. The stain will look nice in it.
Jason Rigsby you’re right that it’s hard to find small amounts. The only place I’ve found it in quart containers is at Big Jim’s archery. They buy it in gallons and repackage it. They are really good to work with so give them a call or check out their website. Good luck
Hey Ty, Nicely done!! Enjoyed the video!! Have a question for you. I have a York recurve...35# @ 28" and 66". Would like to refinish as you did and you mentioned straightening a limb. The lower limb on this bow is slightly twisted. How would you recommend attempting to straighten it. This is a York Super Crest...laminated wood with fiberglass. If you have the time I'd sure appreciate any help!! Thanks Ty
If it has a slight twist what I’ve found best is to string it and leave it strung. Every day or a couple times a day twist the limb past straight and then let it relax. After a few days it should straighten up. This seems to work really well on lighter weight bows. If it’s a really bad twist you will need to use heat to straightening it out. You can use a heat gun or even a blow dryer but you have to be really careful not to get it too hot because it can separate the laminations. I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@Makingitwild That's perfect Ty!!! Thank you soooo much for taking the time to respond!!! I'll do just as you say...just didn't know where to start. Thanks again Ty
Heh Ty great video thanks . can you advise me please i have a browning nomad stalker 1 along the limbs it has lengthways splits in the shiny finish or I suppose the glass i cannot tell and have no experience so how do you know how far to sand the shiny finish and would polyurethane spray be okay to coat the limbs with ? I sanded and coated the riser with true oil which looks nice but have no idea about the limbs any advice would be really generous as I found no answer online so far . Thanks again for the great video Ty
@@deathfromabove9888 if the cracks are in the finish it’s no big deal. You want to sand evenly throughout the limb but you don’t want to get into the fiberglass too much because it can mess up the tiller of the limb or make a weak spot. Polyurethane works well on everything. If the crack is in the fiberglass a thin flexible glue can keep it from getting worse but it depends on which part of the limb. I hope it works out for you. Good luck.
Just got my dads old bow for chriamtas needs a new coat of paint. Its a recurve like yours all wood so can you help me with what kind of paint i can use? Will spray paint crack from the bow flexing?
If you are wanting a color most spray paints will work. I prefer krylon but a thin coat of anything will work and won’t crack when it’s bending. You can get creative with stencils and make it look however you want. If you are wanting a clear wood finish spray on polyurethane works just fine. Good luck with your new bow.
I found and bought a Bear Kodiak Magnum at a yard sale for $10. But the lower limb is bent from standing in a corner and will not straighten. Looks nice on my bedroom wall, though.
Hi, Please advise what are mixing 10 with Crystal finish 1? Did you sand in-between coats?Also, did the finish change color over time ? I've seen True Oil finish changed to ugly yellow. Thank you. Where did you purchase the pints ? How much do you charge refinish a bow ?
10 parts Krystal to 1 part hardener. You are advised to sand between coats but I usually don’t unless there is a run or I need to fix something. I started using this about 7 years ago and haven’t had any yellowing issues like some other products. It’s not as durable as some things but I think it’s easier to use. You can get pints from Big Jim’s archery. I would have to see what all needs to be done before giving a price to refinish one.
@@Makingitwild Thank you very ! I'm not a reseller. I'm do the work myself. Wilson Brothers charge $200 Satin and $300 Gloss plus $50 for return delivery. Thank you again
Yes I did. Sanding the glass is fine as long as you don’t get too carried away. On that one I just sanded enough to get the old finish off and to give something for the new finish to adhere to.
I am doing 2 bows right now what is your opinion on putting tung oil on it I just put 3 coats of was on them and they are curing now after a couple of days I was going to put tung oil on it is that wise than you
Would you be so kind as to list the products used to refinish. I'm down to the glass. I need things like a sealer and then the topcoat. Don't they have to flexible? What about compounding the glass before sealing? Thank for any help
There are many options for finishing the bow. I prefer Cambell Krystal a catalyst epoxy that is used for kitchen cabinets but it’s hard to find and usually only comes in gallon cans. The easiest and most available option is spray on polyurethane in a spray can. I’ve done about a dozen bows with it and never had any issue. I’ve also tried tung oil and it works with multiple coats but you have to be careful it doesn’t get too thick. Thunderbird is another epoxy for bows that is really tough but it takes about 3 days to dry. You can also use clear rim paint from a parts store. If it’s not a rare bow and you just want it for average use than spray on poly would be my recommendation. Hope this helps.
If it has a slight twist what I’ve found best is to string it and leave it strung. Every day or a couple times a day twist the limb past straight and then let it relax. After a few days it should straighten up. This seems to work really well on lighter weight bows. If it’s a really bad twist you will need to use heat to straightening it out. You can use a heat gun or even a blow dryer but you have to be really careful not to get it too hot because it can separate the laminations. I hope this helps. Good luck.
If it has a slight twist what I’ve found best is to string it and leave it strung. Every day or a couple times a day twist the limb past straight and then let it relax. After a few days it should straighten up. This seems to work really well on lighter weight bows. If it’s a really bad twist you will need to use heat to straightening it out. You can use a heat gun or even a blow dryer but you have to be really careful not to get it too hot because it can separate the laminations. I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@Makingitwild Yep keep the bow strung every other day and once a day twist the limbs on the strung day for about a year. The bow he had was a Bear Grizzly from 1970--1972 that is 45 pounds. I got the old Grizzly before I knew I was a left eye dominate right handed person and was planning to wait to use it anyhow since it was too high poundage for me. So my brother got bow in late 2000's in high school when big enough for the bow. Now it is his first bow I gave him not as a present but as a I can't use it, second we think is a Ben person duel sided all fiberglass Super Jet, the markings match others selling on E-bay with the writing on them, the bow got a base of blue powder coat like spray and the outer is mostly green with other colors like the Helmets the Rebels wore in Return Of the Jedi an ugly white brown a tiny bit of tan with the bow. It is a 62 inch bow and is about 55 pounds at the 28 inch mark though like his 45 pound Grizzly he can only pull the bow to 45--47 pounds at his 26 inch draw. Now the reason the bow my brother has needed the Grizzly strung every other day for a year was that the bow was test fired strung backwards with the string left with the bow made smaller with a knot by a Compound only hunter guy since he started hunting in high school in the mid 1970's and Compound outsold the recurves for the first time who had never used a recurve before. He hated old tech and only had the lastest Mathew for hunting each year a new of the same or similar model came out save for his old Mathew Genesis that he called his fuk!ng bow fishing bow as that was the last model that Mathews made that could be fired with fingers , was set up like that in the garage of which he sold the Bear for $20--$25 and My dad got a 35 pound Root/Shakespeare Targetmaster for $25--$30 my dad used for a bit that is a spare bow my brother and I have to use for people who are right eye dominate before my dad got a Compound from 1995 from the first owner that if used the compound today would need a whole new string put on and the cams corrected to straight when I looked at bow last in 2018. The Aluminum arrows with feathers that are 2114 or 2116 and a single skinny 2118 are in great shape though.
Same bow, same arrow. Shoot through chronograph with b55 and fast flight string. Minimal difference at best. But b55 is safer for old bow, especially since almost no old bows have reinforced limb tips.
Anything that can be done about hairline cracks in the fiberglass bow limbs? I have a couple of older bows that have hairline cracks and I'm wondering if refinishing the bow as you did will make them go away. Thanks for the video.
It depends on which direction the cracks are running. If they are horizontal there probably isn’t much you can do other than putting a piece over it but it won’t be very good looking and will change the tiller. If the cracks are running with the limbs you can use a thin flexible glue depending on there the cracks are and it should hold up just fine.
@@mohawkdriver4155 if they are hair line cracks just check them often to make sure they aren’t getting worse. If it’s not an expensive bow I would just shoot them.
@@Makingitwild Olivia Newton John says No. 😃 - I'm old. Still have my '70's Bear "Black Bear" 45# and have that gloss problem. She still shoots well, no twist. Operator not withstanding.
@@Makingitwild Yes Sir Im going to hunt with it, Just to swim upstream. Trying to decide on arrows and heads. Heavy or light both have their pluses and minuses. Thoughts?
@@minnesotaqpitmaster4259 for hunting I try and stay a little on the heavy side. I shoot a minimum of 10gr per pound but usually end up around 11-12. I did a lot playing around with it and if you do the math with kinetic energy a slightly lighter arrow is better but for some reason you will definitely get better penetration with heavier arrows. I fought it for years because light arrows have such a flat trajectory making it more forgiving but once you get used to it heavy is better. I also don’t calculate FOC but to get my weight up I put most of it in the head so I know it’s relatively high. I am also a fan of two blade cut on contact broad heads. The last few years I’ve been shooting cutthroats from Rocky Mountain specialty gear. They are hard to beat for the price although I still think they are expensive. Some argue that you don’t get a good blood trail with single bevel broad heads without bleeder blades but I haven’t had a issue. This topic could be talked about for days and will change with everyone you talk to but it really comes down to shot placement and having a tuned arrow. If you hit them in the right spot it will work no matter what you’re shooting. This was a little long winded but I hope it helps
I agree that you can’t get too carried away while sanding and you need to check tiller. You can also loose some draw weight. Fiberglass is some nasty stuff and you definitely don’t want to breath it in.
Those Browning bows were very well made bows. Great quality
I love to see old bows brought back to life!
My very first bow was one that my Dad cut down from a bow that he had made for my
Mum!
Beautiful job. Pearson bows are hard to beat.
Excellent video. Excellent craftsmanship. Thanks for posting
Thank you
Have a 71 Browning recurve, definately shiny. Nice job on refinish.
I have browning cobra2, and a explorer 2 both made in the 70s I believe, and I have Hoyt ,Bear , Pearson, Herters, Wing, Damon Howit.
I bought a Browning Nomad Stalker at a garage sale when I was 9…39 years ago. Shot my first archery deer with it and a Bear Razor head on a 2216 game getter. I still have it. 48@28 52” AMO
Wow when I clicked on this I thought it was just going to be some guy tinkering with some sandpaper and some kind of finish, but you're like this pro bow-refinishing dude. Really good video!
Thank you.
Love that finish. Looks satin. Great job
Hey like that finish on the bow it made it look good and not so glossy
Thanks. I agree
Thanks for the video. Very informative.
good clean up, that bow looks beautiful now.
Thanks for the vid my friend was enjoyable.
Super cool great job! 😀
Thank you so much!😎
Good job! I will have to do this to my Nomad!
Thanks for sharing this. I have the same bow except in 50#. I've been considering returning to hunting with it and I to had painted mine many years ago. Yes the original finish was very shiny and after trying camo tape and limb socks gave up and painted what had been a beautiful bow. Good to hear the weight has remained pretty much as marked, I've yet to test mine. I'll soon be turning 70 and will have to see how my old shoulders deal with it. Great video, and information.
I’m sure it will still shoot as good as it did last time you used it. It seems like camo paint is becoming popular again so you made it full circle. I’m sure if you need to drop the weight a few pounds you can sand the edges of the limbs a little. Just make sure to count strokes so the tiller doesn’t change and everything stays even. Good luck and happy hunting
I’ve got good results with some 0000 steel wool on high gloss finishes.
Thank you
Cool bow, I like Brownings, you sometimes find they have 3 or even 4 lams in the limb, instead of the usual two.
True. If you have one it's just a little special.
I have a 3 lam myself.
She's old as the trees and shoots like the breeze.
wouldn't give her up, never.
Nice job! I love the flat finish, vs shiny, for hunting. I would love to see more detail on how you straightened that limb!
Thanks. The next one I straighten them limbs on I’ll make a video and explain it better.
Looks good to me very good
Looks like a new bow! I have a late 60's alaskan I want to refinish
That would be great. Is your Alaskan one that doesn’t have a lot of recurve in the limbs? I think they called them semi recurves. I’ve always wanted to shoot one to see if it has more of a hybrid longbow feel. Good luck on your restoration.
@@Makingitwild No this one is heavily recurved, looks allot like a modern bear. It's in amazing shape, I honestly don't know if it's been refinished before but I'd like to put a new finish on it and really take my time to get it perfect.
Sweet tks
Well done bro looks great. 10th sub
Looks like a mild super curve recurve. My ben pearson spoiler looks exactly like that bow.
Looks like Bubba got into archery at some point
👍
Well done 😊 I have a Gen I Browning D shaped wheel bow, and you are right, it's shiny. I also have a Wing Archery White Wing recurve in way worse shape than your project. No matter how much I work that crooked limb, it's still crooked ... So I'm going to cut the limbs off both and route pockets for some no-name bamboo core take-down limbs.
Very hard to get center sections that have comfortable grips and good arrow shelves out of the orient. But old USA bows like these are comfy and the centers are strong enough to handle 45# rated limbs , so why not 😁
That will be a fun project.
You Probably could have used the Just by the limb tip overlays I see older Dynamo--77/D--77string that is not the Dynamo--97/D--97 but an older hard to find string material even for making own string. The bows outer finish should not be a Satin as this tends to make the most slick bows on the market. I would use a Matt or a Semi-Gloss due to how Satin is slick on the bow I have, a OEELINE Airobow the one piece 54 inch bow. One way that takes a bit for a fix like a micro/mini warp is to keep the string on the bow every other day for about a year.
Wow, guess I'm old school, I would have left it original, unless the finish was compromised.
Without to much work you straightened it out . How .
Great video Ty, thank you. I have a vintage Bear Kodiak that has been spray painted and I want to take it back to the original finish. Will the acetone attack the finish or just the spray paint?
As long as you work a small area at a time and don’t put too much acetone it shouldn’t eat the finish. The spray paint will come off pretty easy so I just put the acetone on the rag. Good luck. I hope it turns out great.
This is awesome, my dad has an old browning explorer he bought years ago cheap which looks exactly the same as this bow. One of the tips is delaminating a little bit. What would you do to it to make it safe to shoot? Id like to fix it for him. Is it a big deal for small delamination and can it be fixed
If it’s not delaminated too bad you can use the other limb to pattern a form and glue it up. You will probably need to tiller the bow again but will work. Make sure to use a glue that can flex like smooth on or other bow glued. I’ve heard of people using gorilla glue but I haven’t tried it. I hope this helps a little. Let me know how it turns out.
I would never think of sanding the finish on a nice vintage bow like that unless it was really bad shape and needed to be replaced but its your bow so to each his own. B55 is a good bowstring. Most people who use it are pleasantly surprised. What has been your thoughts of B55 on this bow? Your refinish job looks really nice!
If it was a rare or expensive bow I would be a little more cautious about removing the original finish but there isn’t anything too special about that bow. B55 is a good replacement to the old B50 or what everyone just called Dacron. It doesn’t stretch as much but is still safe for most bows that couldn’t handle more performance string material
Nice. Wondering what model Browning bow it is. I have a few vintage Browning bows. Like them.
That one is a Nomad Stalker.
Hi... I found a bow in my basement too...
I was wondering if after sanding it would be good idea to give it a hand or two of oil... so wood doesn't brittle (it's a pretty old bow). Finally after drying it, apply some finish. I notice you just fixed the finish but you didn't put any oil on yours. What do you think?
If the limbs are dry and brittle I would be a little worried about shooting it because it will probably break. Usually if the bow has fiberglass on the back and belly the laminations will separate before that happens. If its just the riser that is a little dry the best thing to do is sand it smooth and then apply thin superglue all over it to seal it and fill in any cracks. You can do this a few times sanding between coats. Once everything is the way you want it you can use a finish after the last sanding.
Is there a easier preferably in a can that I can use to coat my bow after sanding that would work as well as what you did would love to get a similar appearance but I don’t have a spray gun and stuff awesome well explained video gets me motivated thanks again
The first dozen bows I made I just used spray polyurethane you can get at any hardware store or even Walmart. It holds up and look great as long as you keep it out of the weather. I left a bow out in the rain once to test it and it still held up. Some people use Diamond clear coat made for rims. They have that at most parts stores but I've never tried it. From what I've heard it works really well but has a longer drying time between coats. I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@Makingitwild Have you done any with tung oil like you mentioned in the video? I just found an old bow I remember from childhood and just started sanding last night, which is how i landed here. Anyway, I typically treat my axe handle etc. with boiled linseed oil. I just don't really care for the feel of a lacquer. Was wondering if you had any input on that. I think it should be fine other than extended outdoor use.
@@abcxyz9643 I did one with tung oil a long time ago and it seemed to do just fine. I also use boiled linseed for hammer handles and axe handles. I think it would work just fine but you would need to reapply it often. It also tends to hold dirt and oils off your hands so that’s just something to keep in mind but it’s worth a shot. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out.
@@Makingitwild So I started the sanding last night. Got all the old finish and dirt off. Riser looks so much better with the nice wood grain showing. Its a Ben Pearson Cougar by the way. I believe the front and back are both fiberglass. I sanded down the edges of the limbs and the sand paper definitely put some scratches in the glass. At one point I was brushing the dust off and I found a small splinter broke off from one of the edges. I do not believe it is enough to make a structural problem for the limbs, however I am now nervous to sand the finish off of the top and bottom of the limbs. I also want to make sure I stop those small problems from turning into big problems. I was thinking I might try to apply epoxy to those small areas. If you have any advice specifically for the fiberglass portions I would really appreciate hearing it.
I have some homemade walnut husk stain I think I might apply once its ready. I still have some aesthetic decisions to make though.
@@abcxyz9643 The best way I’ve found to take care of those small splinters is to sand the big part of it off and then put superglue (CA glue) on it and sand it smooth so it can’t hang up on anything. When you are sanding it, work your way towards the limb tip sanding in only one direction. This keeps the sand paper from catching the fibers in the fiberglass. Try not to sand too much off because it will change the tiller of the bow. If it’s bad enough you will need to take the same amount off the other limb. You will also loose a little draw weight. The stain will look nice in it.
Where did you find small amounts of Krystal? I’ve only ever seen it in gallons. What pressure do you spray at as well?
Regards,
Jason
Jason Rigsby you’re right that it’s hard to find small amounts. The only place I’ve found it in quart containers is at Big Jim’s archery. They buy it in gallons and repackage it. They are really good to work with so give them a call or check out their website. Good luck
Hey Ty,
Nicely done!! Enjoyed the video!!
Have a question for you.
I have a York recurve...35# @ 28" and 66".
Would like to refinish as you did and you mentioned straightening a limb.
The lower limb on this bow is slightly twisted. How would you recommend attempting to straighten it.
This is a York Super Crest...laminated wood with fiberglass.
If you have the time I'd sure appreciate any help!!
Thanks Ty
If it has a slight twist what I’ve found best is to string it and leave it strung. Every day or a couple times a day twist the limb past straight and then let it relax. After a few days it should straighten up. This seems to work really well on lighter weight bows. If it’s a really bad twist you will need to use heat to straightening it out. You can use a heat gun or even a blow dryer but you have to be really careful not to get it too hot because it can separate the laminations. I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@Makingitwild That's perfect Ty!!!
Thank you soooo much for taking the time to respond!!!
I'll do just as you say...just didn't know where to start.
Thanks again Ty
I was also wondering about untwisting a twisted limb. Again, thank you for all this information.
Heh Ty great video thanks .
can you advise me please i have a browning nomad stalker 1 along the limbs it has lengthways splits in the shiny finish or I suppose the glass i cannot tell and have no experience so how do you know how far to sand the shiny finish and would polyurethane spray be okay to coat the limbs with ? I sanded and coated the riser with true oil which looks nice but have no idea about the limbs any advice would be really generous as I found no answer online so far .
Thanks again for the great video Ty
@@deathfromabove9888 if the cracks are in the finish it’s no big deal. You want to sand evenly throughout the limb but you don’t want to get into the fiberglass too much because it can mess up the tiller of the limb or make a weak spot. Polyurethane works well on everything. If the crack is in the fiberglass a thin flexible glue can keep it from getting worse but it depends on which part of the limb. I hope it works out for you. Good luck.
Just got my dads old bow for chriamtas needs a new coat of paint. Its a recurve like yours all wood so can you help me with what kind of paint i can use? Will spray paint crack from the bow flexing?
If you are wanting a color most spray paints will work. I prefer krylon but a thin coat of anything will work and won’t crack when it’s bending. You can get creative with stencils and make it look however you want. If you are wanting a clear wood finish spray on polyurethane works just fine. Good luck with your new bow.
I found and bought a Bear Kodiak Magnum at a yard sale for $10. But the lower limb is bent from standing in a corner and will not straighten. Looks nice on my bedroom wall, though.
That’s the great thing about those old bears, even if they can’t be fixed they still look great on the wall.
Hi, Please advise what are mixing 10 with Crystal finish 1?
Did you sand in-between coats?Also, did the finish change color over time ? I've seen True Oil finish changed to ugly yellow.
Thank you. Where did you purchase the pints ?
How much do you charge refinish a bow ?
10 parts Krystal to 1 part hardener. You are advised to sand between coats but I usually don’t unless there is a run or I need to fix something. I started using this about 7 years ago and haven’t had any yellowing issues like some other products. It’s not as durable as some things but I think it’s easier to use. You can get pints from Big Jim’s archery.
I would have to see what all needs to be done before giving a price to refinish one.
@@Makingitwild Thank you very ! I'm not a reseller. I'm do the work myself. Wilson Brothers charge $200 Satin and $300 Gloss plus $50 for return delivery.
Thank you again
Did you use 220grit on the Glass as well?
Yes I did. Sanding the glass is fine as long as you don’t get too carried away. On that one I just sanded enough to get the old finish off and to give something for the new finish to adhere to.
Nice! Turned out great!!
I am doing 2 bows right now what is your opinion on putting tung oil on it I just put 3 coats of was on them and they are curing now after a couple of days I was going to put tung oil on it is that wise than you
I’ve used tung oil before. It works good but takes a while to dry. If you put too many coats on the limbs it can crack. The finish not the limbs
@@Makingitwild Thank You I did put two coats on my other bows over the weekend
I have that bow
Would you be so kind as to list the products used to refinish. I'm down to the glass. I need things like a sealer and then the topcoat. Don't they have to flexible?
What about compounding the glass before sealing? Thank for any help
There are many options for finishing the bow. I prefer Cambell Krystal a catalyst epoxy that is used for kitchen cabinets but it’s hard to find and usually only comes in gallon cans. The easiest and most available option is spray on polyurethane in a spray can. I’ve done about a dozen bows with it and never had any issue. I’ve also tried tung oil and it works with multiple coats but you have to be careful it doesn’t get too thick. Thunderbird is another epoxy for bows that is really tough but it takes about 3 days to dry. You can also use clear rim paint from a parts store. If it’s not a rare bow and you just want it for average use than spray on poly would be my recommendation. Hope this helps.
How did you straighten the limbs?
If it has a slight twist what I’ve found best is to string it and leave it strung. Every day or a couple times a day twist the limb past straight and then let it relax. After a few days it should straighten up. This seems to work really well on lighter weight bows. If it’s a really bad twist you will need to use heat to straightening it out. You can use a heat gun or even a blow dryer but you have to be really careful not to get it too hot because it can separate the laminations. I hope this helps. Good luck.
How did you straighten the limbs?😎
Thanks Richard
If it has a slight twist what I’ve found best is to string it and leave it strung. Every day or a couple times a day twist the limb past straight and then let it relax. After a few days it should straighten up. This seems to work really well on lighter weight bows. If it’s a really bad twist you will need to use heat to straightening it out. You can use a heat gun or even a blow dryer but you have to be really careful not to get it too hot because it can separate the laminations. I hope this helps. Good luck.
@@Makingitwild Yep keep the bow strung every other day and once a day twist the limbs on the strung day for about a year. The bow he had was a Bear Grizzly from 1970--1972 that is 45 pounds. I got the old Grizzly before I knew I was a left eye dominate right handed person and was planning to wait to use it anyhow since it was too high poundage for me. So my brother got bow in late 2000's in high school when big enough for the bow. Now it is his first bow I gave him not as a present but as a I can't use it, second we think is a Ben person duel sided all fiberglass Super Jet, the markings match others selling on E-bay with the writing on them, the bow got a base of blue powder coat like spray and the outer is mostly green with other colors like the Helmets the Rebels wore in Return Of the Jedi an ugly white brown a tiny bit of tan with the bow. It is a 62 inch bow and is about 55 pounds at the 28 inch mark though like his 45 pound Grizzly he can only pull the bow to 45--47 pounds at his 26 inch draw.
Now the reason the bow my brother has needed the Grizzly strung every other day for a year was that the bow was test fired strung backwards with the string left with the bow made smaller with a knot by a Compound only hunter guy since he started hunting in high school in the mid 1970's and Compound outsold the recurves for the first time who had never used a recurve before. He hated old tech and only had the lastest Mathew for hunting each year a new of the same or similar model came out save for his old Mathew Genesis that he called his fuk!ng bow fishing bow as that was the last model that Mathews made that could be fired with fingers , was set up like that in the garage of which he sold the Bear for $20--$25 and My dad got a 35 pound Root/Shakespeare Targetmaster for $25--$30 my dad used for a bit that is a spare bow my brother and I have to use for people who are right eye dominate before my dad got a Compound from 1995 from the first owner that if used the compound today would need a whole new string put on and the cams corrected to straight when I looked at bow last in 2018. The Aluminum arrows with feathers that are 2114 or 2116 and a single skinny 2118 are in great shape though.
Acetone with bare hands?
Yeah…. It’s probably not very good for you.
Same bow, same arrow. Shoot through chronograph with b55 and fast flight string. Minimal difference at best. But b55 is safer for old bow, especially since almost no old bows have reinforced limb tips.
That would be an interesting test. It would also be good to measure how much stretch each has.
Anything that can be done about hairline cracks in the fiberglass bow limbs? I have a couple of older bows that have hairline cracks and I'm wondering if refinishing the bow as you did will make them go away. Thanks for the video.
It depends on which direction the cracks are running. If they are horizontal there probably isn’t much you can do other than putting a piece over it but it won’t be very good looking and will change the tiller. If the cracks are running with the limbs you can use a thin flexible glue depending on there the cracks are and it should hold up just fine.
@@Makingitwild Thanks. Are the cracks, horizontal or vertical, compromising the bow in any way?
@@mohawkdriver4155 if they are hair line cracks just check them often to make sure they aren’t getting worse. If it’s not an expensive bow I would just shoot them.
Would you be willing to refinish a bow for me? Thanks, Mark
I don’t usually refinish other peoples bows but what do you have?
Camo bow sleeves on each limb instead? Just saying.
You definitely could but didn’t leg warmers go out in the 80s?
@@Makingitwild Olivia Newton John says No. 😃 - I'm old. Still have my '70's Bear "Black Bear" 45# and have that gloss problem. She still shoots well, no twist. Operator not withstanding.
@@minnesotaqpitmaster4259 those old bears were ahead of their time for sure. Make sure you hang on to that one. They are becoming harder to find.
@@Makingitwild Yes Sir Im going to hunt with it, Just to swim upstream. Trying to decide on arrows and heads. Heavy or light both have their pluses and minuses. Thoughts?
@@minnesotaqpitmaster4259 for hunting I try and stay a little on the heavy side. I shoot a minimum of 10gr per pound but usually end up around 11-12. I did a lot playing around with it and if you do the math with kinetic energy a slightly lighter arrow is better but for some reason you will definitely get better penetration with heavier arrows. I fought it for years because light arrows have such a flat trajectory making it more forgiving but once you get used to it heavy is better. I also don’t calculate FOC but to get my weight up I put most of it in the head so I know it’s relatively high. I am also a fan of two blade cut on contact broad heads. The last few years I’ve been shooting cutthroats from Rocky Mountain specialty gear. They are hard to beat for the price although I still think they are expensive. Some argue that you don’t get a good blood trail with single bevel broad heads without bleeder blades but I haven’t had a issue. This topic could be talked about for days and will change with everyone you talk to but it really comes down to shot placement and having a tuned arrow. If you hit them in the right spot it will work no matter what you’re shooting. This was a little long winded but I hope it helps
i regularly dry fire my bows to clear any moisture in the limbs
I've heard good feedback about the Woodglut plans.
No Restoration Done, At least Not On This Video, Refinishing is Not Restoration,
Just a word of caution….sanding too much on your bow will change its performance. Also wear a respiratory when sanding
I agree that you can’t get too carried away while sanding and you need to check tiller. You can also loose some draw weight. Fiberglass is some nasty stuff and you definitely don’t want to breath it in.