What you'll need: LCD Polarizers: amzn.to/3MxWwSB (This looks like a good option, the one I bought is no longer available, there are loads of options here: amzn.to/3q6x3Ip) Cutoff tool: amzn.to/2TjAICB Hot stapler: amzn.to/3dnbJW3 Black 3M 5200: amzn.to/3y7JySX Hacksaw along these lines: amzn.to/35XXz9B or amzn.to/3hf0eAZ Razor scraper: amzn.to/3dp0KLI Razor Blades: amzn.to/3hvNer1 Trim clip tool vaguely like this for removing needles: amzn.to/3F7P258 (These links are affiliate links, which earn me a small commission on qualifying purchases from them, this is done at no cost to you, and helps support me continuing to make videos like this)
This video deserve way more like u have no idea how much this video means to me my cluster is the same type and the information screen is complete burned cant see a thing this will really help me get it back to normal
I had to rotate the polarized film 45 degrees to get the best contrast. I would think it would be set at 90 degrees or zero. Glad I test fit it before installing. I had to order more film as my practice pieces were ruined. The LCD screen has sun damage but it should be better than nothing!
I bet your experience is why some folks have lackluster results. I can't imagine why the film would be oriented like that. Must be I got lucky with some that is 0 or 90 degrees. Thanks for the info!
Nice work on the console! I have the 2007 150 Speedster 215 HP. I have a slightly different problem, my digital information center has stopped working, it flickered a few times and now its doesn't show anything. Do you know if there is a fuse that needs to be replace, or does the whole console need to be replaced? Have you ever done that? Do you have a video or know of a video that shows how to replace and recapture the correct data (hours specifically). Any help or direction would be much appreciated. Really love this boat, but not knowing how much gas I have, among other things, is a little bit of a problem!!
There is a fuse on the PWC versions, on the MPEM module thingy, I forget which one it is, I feel like its a 1 or 2a fuse, real small, and don't put a bigger one in or it might fry the mpem if the wiring is shorted. Where the hood opens on the PWC models there is a bundle of wires back in where the hood strut is (Video for reference: ua-cam.com/video/GE9ui12pY6o/v-deo.html) I see them get chewed by mice, or sometimes they just break from being opened and closed. I'll take a look a little later and report back which fuse it is, I'll reply with the fuse location once I'm back at the shop this afternoon or evening.
Hi! I've tried this repair no my 04 GTX since watching your video (very helpful by the way) and found my gauge was beyond repair. I found a replacement gauge off an 04 XRP that looks exactly the same. I plugged it in and it won't work when it was working fine on the XRP. Is there something else I need to do to make this work? I had assumed it would just start working.
Hello from Thailand, a great video! I would like to try it on my jet ski too. What is the best way to remove the device? Do you have a video? Thanks a lot for your help.
I sprayed a little soapy water around the gauge to help is slide out better, and then just gripped the gauge and wiggled while pulling it straight out and it popped right out.
I sprayed some soapy water around the sides of it and pull straight out towards the rider. Only 05 and older are that way, newer ones use a different cluster.
Be careful when removing the needles, one of mine broke off at the stem and I didn't notice until I had completed the whole repair and went to reinstall the needles😭
I have taken the panel apart, removed all of the dmaged film and adhesive, the polarizing film I tried from Ebay (different seller as yours are no longer available) including one from Amazon. The graphics look sharp but the look transparent with only black edges on letters?? Very hard to see in the daylight? Any suggestions on film that would work, outstanding tutorial but dissapointed with the end result. Thank you in advance for your help.
Ugh, I was afraid getting film would prove to be a problem, I'm not sure what the differences are, I think it is the direction it is polarized in. As a test, you could try removing everything again (I'm sorry, I know thats a pain), put the gauge needles on so they don't get out of calibration, and then plug it into the machine, power it up and hold your film and turn it 90 degrees at a time and see if it changes how it looks. If there is a direction it looks better in, cut it and apply it facing that direction, failing that, drop me a line: tom at trythistv dot com and I can mail you a sheet of the film I used and see if that is any different. I have had varying results, my one dash isn't as bright and crisp as I would like, but it also had a lot more severe sun damage than the one in the video.
You'll not be able to see the display. I'm not an expert but the LCD panel is polarized one way and you need a polarizing film going another way to make the letters and stuff visible, or something like that, otherwise the light just passes through and doesn't show up.
Any advice on what to do if the orientation of the needles is not correct? My rpm needle winds all the way around settling under 0 rather then showing 2k rpm
I've not had that problem, but if I did, here is what I would do: Open the cluster back up, Plug in the cluster, pop the dess key on to wake stuff up, let the needles sweep, and once they come to rest pop them off with the little tool thingy, then pop them back on at 0 before the machine powers down, usually they stay awake for a minute or two with the dess key on the post. If needed do one at a time, get the tach removed and replaced at 0, power the machine down by pulling the dess key, and then repeating on the speedo needle. Hope that works, I've not had to do it but that would be my first try.
I believe it should be the same on my RXP, so I can film that soon! It is super easy. Basically the cluster pulls straight out, is held in by a rubber gasket/grommet thing, so a little soapy water or something to help it slide out, sit on the machine, grab it and pull.
They all do seem to have a little amber tint, sometimes the sun damage is more severe than a new polarizer will undo, but often it will at least be legible.
I need to do this on 2005 RXP and I see this video is a few years old. Any updates to completing this or anything you'd do differently now? Thanks for the help
There is a way to install a 06-up cluster into an earlier machine, it isn't super hard but may require software changes or at least a scantool to marry the cluster, while the older clusters didn't require that. I'm tempted to sell my older clusters and try installing a new style one in the sea-don't.
Up to 05 (06 and newer is totally different) you should be able to spray some soapy water around the perimeter of the cluster and then grab it and pull straight out, it has a rubber gasket that can get a little stuck and the soapy water can make it a little easier
Hello - I appreciate your video but I just don’t have the patience to do this repair. Can I ship my gauges to you & pay you to repair them? Let me know. Thx Rodney
the key is finding the natural resting position of the mechanism that controls the needles, as they will likely spin to that natural resting position when the needles are removed and there is no drag to hold them at the zero position. If you don't do that the readings may end up being skewed and the cluster would have to be disassembled to correct that.
What was the tool you used to lift off the needles? I didn't see it linked. Just pulled my cluster from my 04 and building up my confidence to replicate your video.
I'm not sure why I didn't include that, I know it is a trim clip removal tool, I'm not even sure where I got it, but I believe this is essentially the same as what I have: amzn.to/3F7P258
This style cluster is just held in with a rubber gasket basically, a little soapy water sprayed around the perimeter of the cluster and then pull it straight out and disconnect the wires from the back.
I know you said 2005 and earlier......but I have a 2006 4-TEC. Have you tried the same technique with a 2006? Significant differences? Possible? Thank you
I have been told the 06 clusters are impossible to repair in the same fashion and the only solution is replacement. However I happen to have 3 or 4 of them laying around that are completely trashed beyond legibility, and fully plan on attempting to repair them, or at least disassemble them to see if it is possible
The hours are stored in non-volatile memory in the ECU, so disconnecting the cluster, battery or anything else doesn't have any effect, the hours will still count up if you went riding with the cluster disconnected.
Hey man. Enjoyed your video. Thanks for making it. Ive got an 06 RXT with the full digital dash. Its not burnt nearly as bad as yours, but none of the lcd is clearly readable. Do you think the polorizing filter might be the issue as well? Im unsure. If it would help id buy some IPAD film and do the same procedure .
I'm not sure if the 06 and up would be the same, I do have one or two damaged 06 clusters so I should try cutting one apart, I do know that you can still get new clusters for the 06 machines, but they are expensive and require programming, so not exactly a quick fix. I would hate to suggest taking it apart and end up making it worse, I will have to look into repair options and see what I come up with!
@mattbantick8963 Nope not yet. Too many other projects and jobs going on...wasn't a priority, and the easy fix is way to expensive ( replacement) . Still needs dealing with but....my own business, a second job, and 3 kids lol
I do not, but I would recommend checking the fuses and wires, I've seen a number of machines where a mouse has chewed through the wires that go to the cluster up where the hood lift strut is, and it blows I believe the 1 amp fuse on the MPEM
There is a fuse on the mpem for the gauge cluster, I feel like it's a very small one like a 1a fuse maybe, if that burns out it could indicate a wiring issue, I've seen the wires under the hood where the gas lift spring is get eaten by mice or crack from age and short out and blow the fuse. If you put in a bigger fuse I have heard it will burn out the cluster driver circuit in the mpem and then it won't ever work unless you replace the entire mpem. I'd check fuses, if one is burnt out, check the wires for breaks under the hood
Hello! Excellent video! Where did you buy the tool for removing the dials? I’ve tried this repair in the past and it didn’t go so well, broke the shaft off when removing the needle. I have another remaining to fix and I’m hoping for a better result this time around.
Yeah, the description that I typically put that info in is getting harder and harder to find. Here you go: LCD Polarizers: amzn.to/3MxWwSB (This looks like a good option, the one I bought is no longer available, there are loads of options here: amzn.to/3q6x3Ip) Cutoff tool: amzn.to/2TjAICB Hot stapler: amzn.to/3dnbJW3 Black 3M 5200: amzn.to/3y7JySX Hacksaw along these lines: amzn.to/35XXz9B or amzn.to/3hf0eAZ Razor scraper: amzn.to/3dp0KLI Razor Blades: amzn.to/3hvNer1 Trim clip tool vaguely like this for removing needles: amzn.to/3F7P258
When applying the new film, does it have to be turned a certain way. I read where most lcd film had to be turned correctly to be able to see. Or is that for "linear" sheets.
I wondered the same thing, I haven't noticed any difference on the ones I've done but I may just have incredibly good luck or something and always happen to put it on the same direction, but I don't think these screens/polarizers are that kind.
If the cluster looks like this one and not the newer 06-up style then yes it's incredibly easy to remove. There is a rubber seal gasket on the pwc hood, you basically grab the cluster and pull it straight toward the handlebars, a little soapy water spritzed around the outside of the cluster tends to make it pop out easier, but usually 2 hands and a decent pull and it'll pop right out
I know on my 05 RXP, as well as customers 03 and 04 GTX models it pulls straight out toward you if you're sitting on the machine looking at it. They can be real stuck sometimes, I've felt like I'm going to break something or end up punching myself in the face with how hard they get stuck, lubricating around them is often a big help, soapy water or some silicone spray wd40 or something like that can loosen them up a bit, but if you tell me what year and model ski you're working on I can check and see just in case there is some form of clip or something on your specific machine
What year and model? There is a fuse on some of the mpems that controls the cluster, and I've seen fairly common that the wires to the cluster that are in with the gas strut for the hood get chewed by mice, short out and then it pops that fuse.
Possibly, I'm not sure what it's worth, or I do have one that I repaired that I had as a spare that I might be interested in selling, send me an email with your thoughts on prices and such, Tom at trythistv dot com
Be careful when removing the needles, one of mine broke off at the stem and I didn't notice until I had completed the whole repair and went to reinstall the needles😭
What you'll need:
LCD Polarizers: amzn.to/3MxWwSB (This looks like a good option, the one I bought is no longer available, there are loads of options here: amzn.to/3q6x3Ip)
Cutoff tool: amzn.to/2TjAICB
Hot stapler: amzn.to/3dnbJW3
Black 3M 5200: amzn.to/3y7JySX
Hacksaw along these lines: amzn.to/35XXz9B or amzn.to/3hf0eAZ
Razor scraper: amzn.to/3dp0KLI
Razor Blades: amzn.to/3hvNer1
Trim clip tool vaguely like this for removing needles: amzn.to/3F7P258
(These links are affiliate links, which earn me a small commission on qualifying purchases from them, this is done at no cost to you, and helps support me continuing to make videos like this)
just did mine, no breakages and it still works!!! Thanks for taking the time to make the video.
Glad it helped you! Sure is handy to have a fuel gauge, not to mention the other instrumentation!
This video deserve way more like u have no idea how much this video means to me my cluster is the same type and the information screen is complete burned cant see a thing this will really help me get it back to normal
The hero wanted and the hero we needed
Its because I'm batman... Wait no, thats someone else. Glad the video helped you out!
I had to rotate the polarized film 45 degrees to get the best contrast. I would think it would be set at 90 degrees or zero. Glad I test fit it before installing. I had to order more film as my practice pieces were ruined. The LCD screen has sun damage but it should be better than nothing!
I bet your experience is why some folks have lackluster results. I can't imagine why the film would be oriented like that. Must be I got lucky with some that is 0 or 90 degrees. Thanks for the info!
I just did my gtx 155 today, worked awesome! Thanks for taking the time to make this awesome video!
Glad it helped you out! Shame these clusters aren't available anymore, but at least they can be repaired!
Great video very well presented instructions I did mine today thanks for posting this video mine now works perfectly again
Awesome! Glad to hear it helped you get your display working again!
this guy is a hero. will try thiis with my friend cluster
Wonderful job than you for sharing.
Very great replacement. Thanks
Thanks for posting very helpful video, when i removed polarizing film lcd screen looks burned from sun damage any suggestions?
Nice work on the console! I have the 2007 150 Speedster 215 HP. I have a slightly different problem, my digital information center has stopped working, it flickered a few times and now its doesn't show anything. Do you know if there is a fuse that needs to be replace, or does the whole console need to be replaced? Have you ever done that? Do you have a video or know of a video that shows how to replace and recapture the correct data (hours specifically). Any help or direction would be much appreciated. Really love this boat, but not knowing how much gas I have, among other things, is a little bit of a problem!!
There is a fuse on the PWC versions, on the MPEM module thingy, I forget which one it is, I feel like its a 1 or 2a fuse, real small, and don't put a bigger one in or it might fry the mpem if the wiring is shorted.
Where the hood opens on the PWC models there is a bundle of wires back in where the hood strut is (Video for reference: ua-cam.com/video/GE9ui12pY6o/v-deo.html)
I see them get chewed by mice, or sometimes they just break from being opened and closed.
I'll take a look a little later and report back which fuse it is, I'll reply with the fuse location once I'm back at the shop this afternoon or evening.
Hi! I've tried this repair no my 04 GTX since watching your video (very helpful by the way) and found my gauge was beyond repair. I found a replacement gauge off an 04 XRP that looks exactly the same. I plugged it in and it won't work when it was working fine on the XRP. Is there something else I need to do to make this work? I had assumed it would just start working.
Some of these clusters need to be "married" to the ECU in the machine, A dealer, or someone with Candoo/BUDS type equipment can do that.
Hello from Thailand, a great video! I would like to try it on my jet ski too. What is the best way to remove the device? Do you have a video? Thanks a lot for your help.
I sprayed a little soapy water around the gauge to help is slide out better, and then just gripped the gauge and wiggled while pulling it straight out and it popped right out.
thank you sir, this is by far the best video. just did mine
Glad it was helpful to you, being able to read the messages and fuel level is certainly nice!
Thanks for the great video. My one question how did u remove the cluster from the jetski? Thanks
I sprayed some soapy water around the sides of it and pull straight out towards the rider. Only 05 and older are that way, newer ones use a different cluster.
Be careful when removing the needles, one of mine broke off at the stem and I didn't notice until I had completed the whole repair and went to reinstall the needles😭
I have taken the panel apart, removed all of the dmaged film and adhesive, the polarizing film I tried from Ebay (different seller as yours are no longer available) including one from Amazon. The graphics look sharp but the look transparent with only black edges on letters?? Very hard to see in the daylight? Any suggestions on film that would work, outstanding tutorial but dissapointed with the end result. Thank you in advance for your help.
Ugh, I was afraid getting film would prove to be a problem, I'm not sure what the differences are, I think it is the direction it is polarized in.
As a test, you could try removing everything again (I'm sorry, I know thats a pain), put the gauge needles on so they don't get out of calibration, and then plug it into the machine, power it up and hold your film and turn it 90 degrees at a time and see if it changes how it looks. If there is a direction it looks better in, cut it and apply it facing that direction, failing that, drop me a line: tom at trythistv dot com and I can mail you a sheet of the film I used and see if that is any different.
I have had varying results, my one dash isn't as bright and crisp as I would like, but it also had a lot more severe sun damage than the one in the video.
Do you have to apply the protecting screen? What if you just peel the old one off and put it back together?
You'll not be able to see the display. I'm not an expert but the LCD panel is polarized one way and you need a polarizing film going another way to make the letters and stuff visible, or something like that, otherwise the light just passes through and doesn't show up.
Any advice on what to do if the orientation of the needles is not correct? My rpm needle winds all the way around settling under 0 rather then showing 2k rpm
I've not had that problem, but if I did, here is what I would do:
Open the cluster back up, Plug in the cluster, pop the dess key on to wake stuff up, let the needles sweep, and once they come to rest pop them off with the little tool thingy, then pop them back on at 0 before the machine powers down, usually they stay awake for a minute or two with the dess key on the post. If needed do one at a time, get the tach removed and replaced at 0, power the machine down by pulling the dess key, and then repeating on the speedo needle.
Hope that works, I've not had to do it but that would be my first try.
@@trythistv appreciate your response your guess is better than mine so I’ll give it a try
Can you share a how-to video on how to access and remove the instrument cluster from a 2005 Seadoo RTX?
I believe it should be the same on my RXP, so I can film that soon! It is super easy. Basically the cluster pulls straight out, is held in by a rubber gasket/grommet thing, so a little soapy water or something to help it slide out, sit on the machine, grab it and pull.
@@trythistv thank you. It seems a little intimidating to just pull so I look forward to seeing your video.
Hello I’m trying to do it but the visor won’t come out how can I do it.
I just did mine, everything went well. I’m afraid the new polarizing lens isn’t clear enough, it has an amber tint to it. Is this normal?
They all do seem to have a little amber tint, sometimes the sun damage is more severe than a new polarizer will undo, but often it will at least be legible.
Do you know how to bench test that same display? What leads on the back to power it up out of the ski?
Pin 8 should be Ground, Pin 7 should be power, however without communication on pins 5 and 6 you may not get much action.
Thanks I just want to show power so I can sell it.
I need to do this on 2005 RXP and I see this video is a few years old. Any updates to completing this or anything you'd do differently now? Thanks for the help
There is a way to install a 06-up cluster into an earlier machine, it isn't super hard but may require software changes or at least a scantool to marry the cluster, while the older clusters didn't require that. I'm tempted to sell my older clusters and try installing a new style one in the sea-don't.
I do these on a daily basis.
@@trythistvI would be interested in buying all the 02-05 clusters you have. I can also explain to you how to use the 06 style cluster
Great video! I want to do it but I cant find any info online to REMOVE the cluster from an 03 gtx di 155. HELP please!
Up to 05 (06 and newer is totally different) you should be able to spray some soapy water around the perimeter of the cluster and then grab it and pull straight out, it has a rubber gasket that can get a little stuck and the soapy water can make it a little easier
Too easy! Got it out in 5 min. Time to dremel. Thank you!!
Hello - I appreciate your video but I just don’t have the patience to do this repair. Can I ship my gauges to you & pay you to repair them? Let me know. Thx Rodney
I don't offer that kind of service, but there are several folks on ebay that do offer that service, here is a link to one option: ebay.us/RSTQM6
I’m about to do this job but I have a question.
Why do you move the needles before removing instead of letting them rest in the zero position?
the key is finding the natural resting position of the mechanism that controls the needles, as they will likely spin to that natural resting position when the needles are removed and there is no drag to hold them at the zero position. If you don't do that the readings may end up being skewed and the cluster would have to be disassembled to correct that.
@@trythistv understood. Thanks for the answer and the video, of course.
It’s amazing that a tiny little screen protector can solve this problem.
What was the tool you used to lift off the needles? I didn't see it linked. Just pulled my cluster from my 04 and building up my confidence to replicate your video.
I'm not sure why I didn't include that, I know it is a trim clip removal tool, I'm not even sure where I got it, but I believe this is essentially the same as what I have: amzn.to/3F7P258
Hello, the finishing product looks great but “ how I will take out form the gtx base “ I need help
This style cluster is just held in with a rubber gasket basically, a little soapy water sprayed around the perimeter of the cluster and then pull it straight out and disconnect the wires from the back.
Thanks I will do it
I know you said 2005 and earlier......but I have a 2006 4-TEC. Have you tried the same technique with a 2006? Significant differences? Possible?
Thank you
I have been told the 06 clusters are impossible to repair in the same fashion and the only solution is replacement. However I happen to have 3 or 4 of them laying around that are completely trashed beyond legibility, and fully plan on attempting to repair them, or at least disassemble them to see if it is possible
Also, how does the cluster remember the hours once you reinstall it? Does it reset?
The hours are stored in non-volatile memory in the ECU, so disconnecting the cluster, battery or anything else doesn't have any effect, the hours will still count up if you went riding with the cluster disconnected.
Hey man. Enjoyed your video. Thanks for making it. Ive got an 06 RXT with the full digital dash. Its not burnt nearly as bad as yours, but none of the lcd is clearly readable. Do you think the polorizing filter might be the issue as well? Im unsure. If it would help id buy some IPAD film and do the same procedure .
I'm not sure if the 06 and up would be the same, I do have one or two damaged 06 clusters so I should try cutting one apart, I do know that you can still get new clusters for the 06 machines, but they are expensive and require programming, so not exactly a quick fix. I would hate to suggest taking it apart and end up making it worse, I will have to look into repair options and see what I come up with!
Hey did you get around to trying to fix one of those 06 guages?
@mattbantick8963 Nope not yet. Too many other projects and jobs going on...wasn't a priority, and the easy fix is way to expensive ( replacement) . Still needs dealing with but....my own business, a second job, and 3 kids lol
@@mattbantick8963 oh. You weren't talking to me lmao
Hi do you have any spare parts kicking around. I have a broken needle.
Hi, did you ever get a replacement needle? Am looking for one too.
How do you remove the Cluster from the Jet ski
If you sit on the ski, grab the cluster and pull it straight toward you. A little soapy water sprayed around the outside of the cluster helps.
Hello, good night, I have one that I would like to repair how much you charge me and where I can send it
I have one 2 that needs repair
My cluster does not work at all. It look beautiful but does not work at all. Do you repair the electronics?
I do not, but I would recommend checking the fuses and wires, I've seen a number of machines where a mouse has chewed through the wires that go to the cluster up where the hood lift strut is, and it blows I believe the 1 amp fuse on the MPEM
Would you have one for sale
Mine 2005 not show anything ,no speed,rpm,nothing,where can be a problem?
There is a fuse on the mpem for the gauge cluster, I feel like it's a very small one like a 1a fuse maybe, if that burns out it could indicate a wiring issue, I've seen the wires under the hood where the gas lift spring is get eaten by mice or crack from age and short out and blow the fuse. If you put in a bigger fuse I have heard it will burn out the cluster driver circuit in the mpem and then it won't ever work unless you replace the entire mpem. I'd check fuses, if one is burnt out, check the wires for breaks under the hood
I used a battery pack to jump off my battery last season and it blew the 1amp fuse. No gauges were working.
Hello! Excellent video! Where did you buy the tool for removing the dials?
I’ve tried this repair in the past and it didn’t go so well, broke the shaft off when removing the needle. I have another remaining to fix and I’m hoping for a better result this time around.
I'm not entirely sure, I've had it sitting in a drawer for a while, but this kit has something basically the same: amzn.to/3iaJXyl
@@trythistv That looks perfect, thanks for all of your help!
You're very welcome, I've done a few of them now, and they have all gone very smoothly thusfar. Hopefully your attempt goes well also!
Hello, good night, I have one that I would like to repair how much you charge me and where I can send it
@@AdelHarami If you still need a repair i can do it for you!
I can't find the links to tools
Yeah, the description that I typically put that info in is getting harder and harder to find. Here you go:
LCD Polarizers: amzn.to/3MxWwSB (This looks like a good option, the one I bought is no longer available, there are loads of options here: amzn.to/3q6x3Ip)
Cutoff tool: amzn.to/2TjAICB
Hot stapler: amzn.to/3dnbJW3
Black 3M 5200: amzn.to/3y7JySX
Hacksaw along these lines: amzn.to/35XXz9B or amzn.to/3hf0eAZ
Razor scraper: amzn.to/3dp0KLI
Razor Blades: amzn.to/3hvNer1
Trim clip tool vaguely like this for removing needles: amzn.to/3F7P258
When applying the new film, does it have to be turned a certain way. I read where most lcd film had to be turned correctly to be able to see. Or is that for "linear" sheets.
I wondered the same thing, I haven't noticed any difference on the ones I've done but I may just have incredibly good luck or something and always happen to put it on the same direction, but I don't think these screens/polarizers are that kind.
let me explore this channel... look interesting...
Is it easy to take off and put back on?
If the cluster looks like this one and not the newer 06-up style then yes it's incredibly easy to remove. There is a rubber seal gasket on the pwc hood, you basically grab the cluster and pull it straight toward the handlebars, a little soapy water spritzed around the outside of the cluster tends to make it pop out easier, but usually 2 hands and a decent pull and it'll pop right out
@@trythistv thank you!
@@trythistv that didn't seem right. I pulled but it didn't budge. It just pulls straight out? Or do I have to go in under the hood?
I know on my 05 RXP, as well as customers 03 and 04 GTX models it pulls straight out toward you if you're sitting on the machine looking at it. They can be real stuck sometimes, I've felt like I'm going to break something or end up punching myself in the face with how hard they get stuck, lubricating around them is often a big help, soapy water or some silicone spray wd40 or something like that can loosen them up a bit, but if you tell me what year and model ski you're working on I can check and see just in case there is some form of clip or something on your specific machine
@@trythistv okay thank you. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to break anything. It's a 2002 GTX 4-tec
Ok but my cluster isn't working at all.
What year and model? There is a fuse on some of the mpems that controls the cluster, and I've seen fairly common that the wires to the cluster that are in with the gas strut for the hood get chewed by mice, short out and then it pops that fuse.
@@trythistv it's a 2002 GTX 4-tec
Hey do you provide repair services?
I mean technically yes because I run a shop that fixes pwcs, but I haven't really gotten into repairing stuff and shipping it or anything like that.
Would you be interested in repairing one if I shipped it to you? I'd be happy to pay for the shipping, materials, and your time...
Possibly, I'm not sure what it's worth, or I do have one that I repaired that I had as a spare that I might be interested in selling, send me an email with your thoughts on prices and such, Tom at trythistv dot com
@@trythistv how do I send you a direct message? Sorry if that's a stupid question, I don't use this platform very often besides for shorts...😅
I do on a daily basis
I did it !!!!!😅
Awesome, so glad you got it, they can be a little tricky, I was coming to see how I could help but I'm so happy you figured it out!
chapuzas!!!!🤣🤣🤣
Be careful when removing the needles, one of mine broke off at the stem and I didn't notice until I had completed the whole repair and went to reinstall the needles😭
Oh no! They can be very fragile, sorry that happened to your gauge.