Dear Mr. Appleton, you are a Gentleman! Many many thanks for the birthday good wishes! Many thanks also for mentioning my UA-cam channel. The best channel has to be yours though! My wife also sends the warmest regards and thanks you for fulfilling her request. I have made it. I am at home, surrounded by steam locomotives, and inspite of that, have a lovely wife. Thanks again, best regards from Germany!!!
Your quality workmanship and gentle commentary are such a great features of your videos, but your British sense of humor is truly hilarious. “...and a mouse came into my workshop, took one look at what I was doing and threw himself onto the trap.” LMAO
That is a lovely casting, I tried Lost Wax Casting once, Lost the wax, Lost the metal, almost lost a boot. decided I would leave Lost Wax Casting to those who do not shake when pouring liquid metal.
Thank you for explaining the wheel thing again, I certainly appreciated it, no doubt others will too. I don't know a lot about this sort of thing, so it's always nice to learn more.
There I was composing a Blackgates Order for Jinty parts, and Your Mouse story comes on!! I must ask Adam Cro to do some lovely fittings! Current thinking at the Reading Club is to have these wonderful and delicate just fixed on for display but easy to remove for moving and running. I am sad as there was no mention of the Baco spanner this time. Never mind I used mine to part the frames having drilled the holes in all the right places today. My tedious bit was filling all the miss drilled holes up with ends of rivets and filing down to invisible!! Lovely work again Keith. David and Lily. PS They are not MY miss drilled collection? Just left by the previous part built owner!!!
Hi Keith, love the videos. I have a 10 1/4” royal Scot, and the suspension seems to be out of adjustment. The centre drivers (using your screwdriver method) feel like they are supporting all of the weight, while the front and rear drivers lift fairly easily. To adjust these front and rear driving wheels to put more weight down, do I need to tighten the suspension spring nuts on the keeper plate, or loosen them?
Try tightening them first and have a feel to see what the pressure difference between the wheels is. Maybe you should slacken off the springs for the centre pair. Stiff suspension is undesirable on a miniature locomotive running on the usual uneven track.
I noticed that as you were working on the drive wheels the trailing wheels would lift up. Is that normal or should they all be level on the rolling rails? I was not sure if this matters or you had just not mentioned adjusting them. I always like the videos and I learn a lot from them.
Hi Keith, after watching many of your videos it got me thinking. I am currently gauge 1 but would like to upsize on a live steam locomotive. Would you recommend 3.5” or 5” for a beginner?
Keith Appleton Thanks very much Keith. Just 1 last question if I may, I will be operating by myself and for weight purposes and lifting what locomotive would you recommend for a beginner? I have heard Tich difficult
Keith Appleton Thanks Keith will have a look! Also considering Juliet, Rob Roy and Ajax as heard they are also simple! Spoke to Simon at The Steam Workshop
Once the water is added to the engine, won't the balance between the sets of wheels change? But I'm guessing that most of that water will be held in the front 2/3ds of the engine(?), so it should only help with the traction on the 4 drive wheels, no?
That really is some fine detail on the part, I think you called it a vacuum brake system. One would imagine leprechauns or pixies doing the machine work to make the casting dies. I am not asking the purchase price, but am curious what you think of the value of the engine, considering it is assembled and finished instead of a kit. Regards, Jay.
I follow what you are saying, Roger. The smaller diameter rear wheels will sink slightly lower between the rollers of the unit, whereas wheels of larger diameter than the drive wheels will sit slightly higher.
If all 3 sets are the same then the set of rollers under the smaller trailing wheels will not touch the rims. That set needs the rollers closer together. Relative to the point that the wheel touches the track, the rollers are forward and backward, and up. On the smaller diameter wheel, if you have the rollers set to the same value of up, they need to be less forward and less backward....or put another way, if you have a big and small wheel on a track, then roll 4 balls on the track until they touch the rims of both wheels, the balls touching the small wheel will be closer together
I think what Roger means is that the smaller diameter trailing wheels would (if they had enough weight over them) drop down further in between their pairs of rolling road rollers than the larger driving wheels; but since they don't have much weight on them, they sit up out of contact with the rollers
Keith, as the trailing wheels are a smaller diameter than the driving wheels, the ball bearings on the rolling road block for the trailing set need to be closer together, to get the wheel rail contact height the same as the driving wheels.
Hello Keith, I´m writing you in behalf of a friend of mine who´s absolutely desperated after buying an 042 14XX because this engine ( british made )can´t run. The engine supposed to be new but it´s not. He dismantled the cylinder block and everything seems to be Ok.The cranks and eccentrics seems to be Ok too. But now the situation is that the engine ( with compressed air ) is not able to do a complete lap. It moves about 180 degrees and stops. Do you have an idea about where the problem is?. Also there is no tight spots ...Thank you very much, steam master!Kind regards, Carlos
I believe the Nylon locking nut was invented by or for the RAF during the second world war. And Standard Triumph used them from the restart of postwar production. So they're no more modern than a TR3 which is to say not very modern at all.
There's actually some debate over the effectiveness of split washers as locking devices these days. In testing they've been shown to not significantly prevent nuts from loosening under vibration, and in some tests actually loosened the joint faster than no nut at all (see website: boltscience for one such test). Many industries have abandoned their use altogether (notably NASA describes them as "completely useless" in their fastener design manual), and I suspect that wherever you do see them in new products it's likely down to ignorance or habit. Nylocs are much more suitable in that application as you rightly put it.
Dear Mr. Appleton, you are a Gentleman! Many many thanks for the birthday good wishes! Many thanks also for mentioning my UA-cam channel. The best channel has to be yours though!
My wife also sends the warmest regards and thanks you for fulfilling her request. I have made it. I am at home, surrounded by steam locomotives, and inspite of that, have a lovely wife. Thanks again, best regards from Germany!!!
Your quality workmanship and gentle commentary are such a great features of your videos, but your British sense of humor is truly hilarious. “...and a mouse came into my workshop, took one look at what I was doing and threw himself onto the trap.” LMAO
That is a lovely casting, I tried Lost Wax Casting once, Lost the wax, Lost the metal, almost lost a boot. decided I would leave Lost Wax Casting to those who do not shake when pouring liquid metal.
Lovely video collection. I have a 14XX, and you've got me fired up to do some improvements!
Very enjoyable video. Happy Birthday to Phil, too.
Bruce Boschek Thank you very much Bruce, most kind. Best regards to you from Germany!👍🏻
Thank you for explaining the wheel thing again, I certainly appreciated it, no doubt others will too. I don't know a lot about this sort of thing, so it's always nice to learn more.
Happy birthday Phil! :)
ThreePounds thanks very much mate, also to you, best wishes from Germany!!
Happy Birthday Phil , from South Wales Britain :-)
welshpete12 thank you very much welshpete12, with best steamy regards from Germany
There I was composing a Blackgates Order for Jinty parts, and Your Mouse story comes on!!
I must ask Adam Cro to do some lovely fittings! Current thinking at the Reading Club is to have these wonderful and delicate just fixed on for display but easy to remove for moving and running.
I am sad as there was no mention of the Baco spanner this time. Never mind I used mine to part the frames having drilled the holes in all the right places today. My tedious bit was filling all the miss drilled holes up with ends of rivets and filing down to invisible!!
Lovely work again Keith.
David and Lily.
PS They are not MY miss drilled collection? Just left by the previous part built owner!!!
Thanks for the video.
The pipe near wheel, what is this for? You see it 4:09 before your hand came over it.
Axle pump water feed pipe.
Hi Keith, love the videos. I have a 10 1/4” royal Scot, and the suspension seems to be out of adjustment. The centre drivers (using your screwdriver method) feel like they are supporting all of the weight, while the front and rear drivers lift fairly easily. To adjust these front and rear driving wheels to put more weight down, do I need to tighten the suspension spring nuts on the keeper plate, or loosen them?
Try tightening them first and have a feel to see what the pressure difference between the wheels is. Maybe you should slacken off the springs for the centre pair. Stiff suspension is undesirable on a miniature locomotive running on the usual uneven track.
That’s great thankyou very much I’ll give it a try. Find all your videos very helpful!
I noticed that as you were working on the drive wheels the trailing wheels would lift up. Is that normal or should they all be level on the rolling rails? I was not sure if this matters or you had just not mentioned adjusting them. I always like the videos and I learn a lot from them.
Explained in Part #3 ..... please watch the series.
Hi Keith, after watching many of your videos it got me thinking. I am currently gauge 1 but would like to upsize on a live steam locomotive. Would you recommend 3.5” or 5” for a beginner?
5 inch Gauge - Easier to work with as ther are physically larger.
Keith Appleton Thanks very much Keith. Just 1 last question if I may, I will be operating by myself and for weight purposes and lifting what locomotive would you recommend for a beginner? I have heard Tich difficult
A Martin Evan's Simplex was the first one I ever built and it was fairly simple to build too.
Keith Appleton Thanks Keith will have a look! Also considering Juliet, Rob Roy and Ajax as heard they are also simple! Spoke to Simon at The Steam Workshop
Once the water is added to the engine, won't the balance between the sets of wheels change? But I'm guessing that most of that water will be held in the front 2/3ds of the engine(?), so it should only help with the traction on the 4 drive wheels, no?
That really is some fine detail on the part, I think you called it a vacuum brake system. One would imagine leprechauns or pixies doing the machine work to make the casting dies.
I am not asking the purchase price, but am curious what you think of the value of the engine, considering it is assembled and finished instead of a kit.
Regards, Jay.
🇦🇺. Thanks for sharing
Kieth do you have a link to Alexander in the USA please and thanks! Mark
ua-cam.com/video/csuCsGrQzlw/v-deo.html
Are those rolling road blocks bought to suit each wheel size, or do you have to adjust the spacing to get common "rail height".?
they are all exactly the same height - flat.
I follow what you are saying, Roger. The smaller diameter rear wheels will sink slightly lower between the rollers of the unit, whereas wheels of larger diameter than the drive wheels will sit slightly higher.
If all 3 sets are the same then the set of rollers under the smaller trailing wheels will not touch the rims. That set needs the rollers closer together. Relative to the point that the wheel touches the track, the rollers are forward and backward, and up. On the smaller diameter wheel, if you have the rollers set to the same value of up, they need to be less forward and less backward....or put another way, if you have a big and small wheel on a track, then roll 4 balls on the track until they touch the rims of both wheels, the balls touching the small wheel will be closer together
I think what Roger means is that the smaller diameter trailing wheels would (if they had enough weight over them) drop down further in between their pairs of rolling road rollers than the larger driving wheels; but since they don't have much weight on them, they sit up out of contact with the rollers
Keith, as the trailing wheels are a smaller diameter than the driving wheels, the ball bearings on the rolling road block for the trailing set need to be closer together, to get the wheel rail contact height the same as the driving wheels.
Hello Keith, I´m writing you in behalf of a friend of mine who´s absolutely desperated after buying an 042 14XX because this engine ( british made )can´t run. The engine supposed to be new but it´s not. He dismantled the cylinder block and everything seems to be Ok.The cranks and eccentrics seems to be Ok too. But now the situation is that the engine ( with compressed air ) is not able to do a complete lap. It moves about 180 degrees and stops. Do you have an idea about where the problem is?. Also there is no tight spots ...Thank you very much, steam master!Kind regards, Carlos
I would have to see it to evaluate the problem.
I believe the Nylon locking nut was invented by or for the RAF during the second world war. And Standard Triumph used them from the restart of postwar production. So they're no more modern than a TR3 which is to say not very modern at all.
There's actually some debate over the effectiveness of split washers as locking devices these days. In testing they've been shown to not significantly prevent nuts from loosening under vibration, and in some tests actually loosened the joint faster than no nut at all (see website: boltscience for one such test). Many industries have abandoned their use altogether (notably NASA describes them as "completely useless" in their fastener design manual), and I suspect that wherever you do see them in new products it's likely down to ignorance or habit. Nylocs are much more suitable in that application as you rightly put it.
that looks like a steam heat fitting, not vacuum brake pipe
You are probably right - either way the part is non-functional - it just looks good.