Another great video for reference. A few tidbits for someone looking to do this (and the rears). Super simple to do vs paying MB a ton of cash. Our GLKs don't have the electronic parking brake, so it's all straight forward. - The 15mm caliper bolts are removed like any other bolts. That 22mm (7/8") flat is there in case the bolt spins. But, have decent sockets and make sure you're squared up to the bolt or you might indeed strip the head. - You're correct about the E18 caliper bracket bolts. Not sure what that factory torque is but good god...... A nice long breaker bar is a must, or slide a piece of pipe over the ratchet handle. - For the guy who asked about jack points...correct. There's a rectangle pad under the front center of the vehicle. Jack it up there and place your jack stands in the proper location under the rails For the rear, jack it up at the differential and place your stands in the proper spots. - I bought a $15 brake piston tool on Amazon that ratchets and compresses the piston....best investment ever. - Since I'm OCD, I spent the $20 and bought new guide pins and slider bolts for the front and rear. The rear pin can strip easy, so it's simple insurance for me. Slap a little grease on the guide pin and you're good to go. I did my friend's GLK pads/rotors/fluid flush last weekend...doing mine today. Thanks again for your videos....well shot and comprehensive.
Great video - really helpful. I found that if I removed the caliper from the bracket first, it gave me better access to the E18 bolts that hold the bracket in place. I do wish you would have shown how you got those E18s out, as it took me FOREVER. I don’t have a pneumatic wrench, so had to use a breaker bar to back them out nearly the entire way.
Thanks for the clear instructions. When you put in the E18 bolts I did not see any loctite and the AllData manual says for 180Nm ~ 133 ft-lbs - which I thought was fairly excessive but it seems to be what they want.
Thank you for the comment. Absolutely do what you’re comfortable with. That does seem like a lot of torque together with loctite but I’m sure they manual is correct. Don’t forget to hit subscribe if you haven’t already.
Hey Chuck and thank you for the comment. If the rotors look okay, I would replace only the pads and do the rotors on the next pad change. I will say, if you're paying someone to do the work, it might be better to have it all done at once so they don't have to do it twice. Don't forget to hit the like button and subscribe to the channel if you haven't already.
You can use air impact or high power battery powered impact driver. I have one called Work Pro from Amazon. It is green and about $79. WORKPRO 20V Cordless Impact Wrench, 1/2-inch, 320 Ft Pounds Max Torque... www.amazon.com/dp/B08516T3NB/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_8CTWJF0CZZVA9HA9ACSW
Great video! Are you able to show exactly where the front/rear center jacking points are for the GLK(X204) when using two set of jack stands? Winter is coming and people may need to swap their wheels
Thanks for the comment. Front: there is a flat piece if you look under the car coming in from the front that will allow you to put a jack in and crank up and get stands on each side jack point. Rear: I do the rears one side at a time normally. Don’t forget to hit subscribe.
It’s easier if they are for sure. That way you have more leverage and space in general. Don’t forget to like, share and subscribe if you haven’t already.
Great video! I'm actually buying a 2010 used but really well maintained, I know nothing when it comes to Mercedes how do you like yours what problems, If any, have you come across? What should I look out for? Also what are the lights On top of the dash? They seem to light up when approaching something.
Thank you for the comment Michael. If you check out my library, I have a video on common issues on this car. Please like the video and consider subscribing to the channel. Costs you nothing and helps me a ton.
Beware of the ESL - electronic steering Lock - if that goes out your car is useless and Mercedes will charge you upwards of $1600 for the repair and an additional $456 to reprogram your key. This can only be repaired at a MB dealership so I hope you never have this problem in Death Valley in the summer.
Powinieneś dobrze wyczyścić szczotką drucianą piastę przed założeniem tarczy, jarzmo hamulcowe tak samo. Nie rozumiem dlaczego użyłeś tylko zmywacza do hamulców i szczotki do zębów, wszystko jest nadal brudne. Warto wszystko porządnie wyczyścić do gołej stali bo tutaj każde 0.01 mm jest ważne. Warto też skontrolować tłoczki hamulcowe, wszystki gumki czy nie są uszkodzone. Poza tym sama procedura wymiany ok
Another great video for reference. A few tidbits for someone looking to do this (and the rears). Super simple to do vs paying MB a ton of cash. Our GLKs don't have the electronic parking brake, so it's all straight forward.
- The 15mm caliper bolts are removed like any other bolts. That 22mm (7/8") flat is there in case the bolt spins. But, have decent sockets and make sure you're squared up to the bolt or you might indeed strip the head.
- You're correct about the E18 caliper bracket bolts. Not sure what that factory torque is but good god...... A nice long breaker bar is a must, or slide a piece of pipe over the ratchet handle.
- For the guy who asked about jack points...correct. There's a rectangle pad under the front center of the vehicle. Jack it up there and place your jack stands in the proper location under the rails For the rear, jack it up at the differential and place your stands in the proper spots.
- I bought a $15 brake piston tool on Amazon that ratchets and compresses the piston....best investment ever.
- Since I'm OCD, I spent the $20 and bought new guide pins and slider bolts for the front and rear. The rear pin can strip easy, so it's simple insurance for me. Slap a little grease on the guide pin and you're good to go.
I did my friend's GLK pads/rotors/fluid flush last weekend...doing mine today. Thanks again for your videos....well shot and comprehensive.
Nicely done! It’s rewarding to do your own work sometimes isn’t it? Glad it all worked out for you and your friend.
Best video I have seen for this car
Wow, thank you. Please like the video then and subscribe. Costs you nothing and helps me a ton.
Best video? lol never seen a person do everything the hardest way possible lol
Thank you for watching and the comment
Thanks for showing this, I'm thinking about buying a GLK.
Do it. Love ours still! Easy to work on too.
I've been really happy with my GLK250
Very good. I always take more short cuts. When I retire may have some time. Also like floor in garage. Ty
Thank you :-). Epoxy is great for garage space.
Also this car is a German masterpiece. 160000 no major issues
Mine has been pretty good as well. Easy to work on.
Great video - really helpful. I found that if I removed the caliper from the bracket first, it gave me better access to the E18 bolts that hold the bracket in place.
I do wish you would have shown how you got those E18s out, as it took me FOREVER. I don’t have a pneumatic wrench, so had to use a breaker bar to back them out nearly the entire way.
Thanks Andy and thank you for watching. Don’t forget to like and consider subscribing to the channel.
Thanks for the clear instructions. When you put in the E18 bolts I did not see any loctite and the AllData manual says for 180Nm ~ 133 ft-lbs - which I thought was fairly excessive but it seems to be what they want.
Thank you for the comment. Absolutely do what you’re comfortable with. That does seem like a lot of torque together with loctite but I’m sure they manual is correct. Don’t forget to hit subscribe if you haven’t already.
If the rotors look ok, is it acceptable to just replace the pads and call it done?
Hey Chuck and thank you for the comment. If the rotors look okay, I would replace only the pads and do the rotors on the next pad change. I will say, if you're paying someone to do the work, it might be better to have it all done at once so they don't have to do it twice. Don't forget to hit the like button and subscribe to the channel if you haven't already.
Why do you have a 7/8" wrench? Isn't everything on a Mercedes metric?
Maybe it was replaced by someone else in the past? Not sure.
Great video 👍 what would you suggest if the rotor set screw gets rounded ?can you use an extractor?
Yes, extractor or you could drill it out would be my suggestions.
What kind of impact would you recommend to remove the lugs?
You can use air impact or high power battery powered impact driver. I have one called Work Pro from Amazon. It is green and about $79.
WORKPRO 20V Cordless Impact Wrench, 1/2-inch, 320 Ft Pounds Max Torque... www.amazon.com/dp/B08516T3NB/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_api_glt_fabc_8CTWJF0CZZVA9HA9ACSW
Was your brake ware sensor displaying a message to replace the pads and rotors?
No but that is what it would do though if replacement was required. Most my work is proactive.
Great video! Are you able to show exactly where the front/rear center jacking points are for the GLK(X204) when using two set of jack stands? Winter is coming and people may need to swap their wheels
Thanks for the comment.
Front: there is a flat piece if you look under the car coming in from the front that will allow you to put a jack in and crank up and get stands on each side jack point.
Rear: I do the rears one side at a time normally.
Don’t forget to hit subscribe.
Quick question, do the wheels have to be turned in slightly ?
It’s easier if they are for sure. That way you have more leverage and space in general. Don’t forget to like, share and subscribe if you haven’t already.
Great video! I'm actually buying a 2010 used but really well maintained, I know nothing when it comes to Mercedes how do you like yours what problems, If any, have you come across? What should I look out for? Also what are the lights On top of the dash? They seem to light up when approaching something.
Thank you for the comment Michael. If you check out my library, I have a video on common issues on this car. Please like the video and consider subscribing to the channel. Costs you nothing and helps me a ton.
Beware of the ESL - electronic steering Lock - if that goes out your car is useless and Mercedes will charge you upwards of $1600 for the repair and an additional $456 to reprogram your key. This can only be repaired at a MB dealership so I hope you never have this problem in Death Valley in the summer.
Interesting. Thx for sharing and I hope no one has this issue.
Nice Job. Should the Brake Pad wear light automatically turn off or should I reset?
Mine just turned off once I replaced the sensor and started driving. If not, you can reset with most OBDII tools.
@@512TXSDIY Okay weird mind still says "Brake Pad Wear" after replacing the front. Didn't know if I need to keep driving or do the rest or something?
@@jaydab did you change both sensors in front and rear? If so and it’s still on, just reset it.
@@512TXSDIY only did the front brakes.
Maybe check the wear sensor in the rear?
What size wrench I need to remove the 2 rotors bolts
Do you mean the bolts that anchor the rotor to the hub?
Yes
@@marshallfowler9172 It is a torx 30. Video is at 8:37 for more details. I used an impact so you don’t strip the nut.
What size is that Torx socket
I’d have to rewatch the videos. It’s been a while since I’ve seen it.
E18
Why Meyle Rotors?, Brembo sells rotors too $101 each
$45 to $101, big difference in price.
That’s what popped up when I started my search for parts. Both are great options though. Don’t forget to hit subscribe if you haven’t already.
Don't to think about how much would this cost at the dealership.
Probably $1,500 to $2,000 I’m sure
Powinieneś dobrze wyczyścić szczotką drucianą piastę przed założeniem tarczy, jarzmo hamulcowe tak samo. Nie rozumiem dlaczego użyłeś tylko zmywacza do hamulców i szczotki do zębów, wszystko jest nadal brudne. Warto wszystko porządnie wyczyścić do gołej stali bo tutaj każde 0.01 mm jest ważne. Warto też skontrolować tłoczki hamulcowe, wszystki gumki czy nie są uszkodzone. Poza tym sama procedura wymiany ok
What he said. Thank you for watching!