DIY Undermount Laminate Sink Countertop Instructional Video
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- Опубліковано 17 січ 2016
- This Instructional video will show you how to build an undermount sink into a laminate countertop with perhaps the most frugal means, yet with very professional results!
It did take a long time to edit to make it as concise as possible, while there are other videos that show many of the steps, no video I found showed them all let alone with modestly priced tools! . Further all pro videos expensive edge bonding glues/ guns that could run up to $300. This technique very high quality, avoiding hundreds of $ using G-flex 2 part epoxy-- for about $20! Our sink is now 7years + and still looks exactly as this video shows. But recently, I have felt called to do videos on Health Freedom, Dating and Nutritional alternatives that are BETTER than vaccines. The current crisis (Covid) was a 'pan-demic' a manufactured 'crisis' built on a foundation of lies. While many are blindly obeying, I pray that their eyes will be opened and that our country as a whole, will turn our hearts back to God and repent.
Appreciate your skills but pandemic and anti-vaccine conspiracy theories harm public health and the channel's credibility. Please leave them out of future videos.
very good video and especially liked the biblical reference at the end
Thanks Doug, even as modest as our kitchen is, at the time, I got all wrapped up in the material aspects of remodeling our kitchen. And in the process I even put it above relationships!! I didn't realize it myself until much hurt had happened in our family as a result...It was a very painful lesson, but God allowed me to see the folly of my choices. If we meditate on His word daily, this becomes easier. This whole experience was as dramatic to me as the 'glue test' (in the video) was--proof to me of how important Matthew 6:19-21 is!
Awe some video and thanks so much for sharing about our Lord!! I like to identify with the 2nd "glue" test -with Jesus-He will stick to us tighter than we could ever imagine!! Thank you for your video and esp for the unexpected verse at the end!
Lovely skills. It's sad that so many people today are spiritually dead and live their lives COMPLETELY on the material level.
@@fontybits Thanks for your reply. It is sad, but at least it gives true Christians an opportunity to be different and I think as we love others bravely (which we need God's grace to do--for sure) we will affect people who live on a pure material level. I was (and have to fight regularly) on that 'material' level, as it can be SO seductive and deceiving as luxuries and comforts of this world appear to give us 'security'. So I encourage you to pray, as I will pray, to stay focused on Loving God #1 and others as ourselves.
Loved the verse at the end. May God bless you...
Great video! You are diligent worker and God rewards his people. Thank you for the bible verse and sharing your testimony.
Felecia, thank you for the encouragement!
Nicely edited. I really appreciate how you showed as much of any particular process as necessary to show what needed to be shown - and then moved on to the next step! Made this video very easy to watch.
Thank you Jerry! Kind of you. It did take a long time to edit to make it as concise as possible, while there are other videos that show many of the steps, no video I found showed them all, let alone with modestly priced tools! . Further all pro videos expensive edge bonding glues/ guns that could run up to $300. This technique very high quality, avoiding hundreds of $ using G-flex 2 part epoxy-- for about $20! Our sink is now 7years + and still looks exactly as this video shows. But recently, I have felt called to do videos on Health Freedom, Dating and Nutritional alternatives that are BETTER than Vaccines.
Awesome job and excellent information. Very well done. Love the verse at the end.
Terry, thank you so much! Appreciate it. And Praise God that he can use our mistakes to glorify him!
Utmost respect for your ingenuity! You are one of the few that are able to see a challenge & come up with an economical and real solution. Excellent, PROFESSIONAL video....kuddos! Love the detail diagrams & all the work you put into it. We however, have purchased a composite sink & are planning to use 'pre-fab' laminate top so not sure what all we'll face. Saving this link for reference LOL Thx again! PTL
Diane, Thank you so much for such kind words and your encouragement : ) I recall seeing the Karran video (and just searched it on youtube--it's titled) 'Karran acrylic sink install in laminate - Postform method' is that what you are contemplating? If so, it would be a good video to watch. Thanks again for your comment! Hope your countertop turns out well!
This doesn't look like an easy to do, so I guess people would need to hire a professional like you.
Thank you for the instruction and encouragement!
Tremendous job! Thanks.
Nicely done!
Excellent video! Very much appreciated!
I followed every step and my stainless steel installation went perfectly. Thanks!!
Anon, wow--thats great! Thanks for the info. It makes sense that G-flex would bond well, even better to stainless. I discovered a simple steel washer that was glued to an aluminum piece (w/Gflex) just for testing around the time I build the sink. I could NOT separate the washer from the aluminum strip even with very strong hammering with a screw driver!
Thank You, this was very helpful. I will be referring to it until the kitchen is done. Great illustrations and descriptions.
I just finished my stainless steal undermounted sink following the instructions of your vid. Came out perfectly fine. A few needed variations due to the type and shape of my sink but I couldn’t have done this without you. Thank you! Would love to send you a pic.
Mark Adkins, that's awesome!! So happy to hear. Also, it would be awesome if you you could just do a short 30 second video ( and tell us about it as you show it) would be great. Then you could post the link here in the comments.
Way to go!!
@@i-changeus Would be very happy too. If you don’t see it by the end of the holidays, please remind me. So busy with home/work for the next week or so but am still so grateful for your video. I really could not have accomplished this without you.
@@subvocal1 Would love to see it! Thanks!
Very nice and detailed video. I wish I would have seen this before I re-did my kitchen cabinets and laminate counter top.
Wow. Heck of a tutorial. Great work on the counter and video.
Hugh, thank you very much-- Really appreciate your feedback!
@Joe Average Sorry for the huge delay! I know it's far to late now, but just in case, search other videos on UA-cam, and make sure you use Titebond III as it is waterproof.
great video and a special thanks for the bible verse!
Thank you Kathryn Fields...appreciate it!
As ex-painter and auto-body repairman I'd recommend scuffing the surface when applying that bondo, it may not bond well to shiny/smooth surface, and it's what you see along edge where bondo ends and acrylic shows, though the bondo is simply for looks.
Great point. It would have been good to sand the SIDE of the LIP of the sink. However I pushed the bondo in deep and it went down and contacted the plywood support below (shown at 5:05 and that built in 'support redundancy' if you will. Therefore it didn't need to rely soley on the side to side adhesion of only the bondo. At 7 years now, and still doing great. Thanks for watching!
Very nice video, excellent explanation
Awesome Video!
Thanks William, really appreciate the feedback!
Thanks for the vid. Wish I would have seen this before I started! I used two pieces of MDF glued and screwed, cut out the sink, used a paint-on stone texture, was cleaning up trim, dropped it and cracked everything at the corner of the sink! (Doh!) Planning to router out the bottom layer to fit the sink, which will give a 3/4" lip on the countertop itself. Gonna user your centering method. wish me luck!
Blair, sorry to hear about that mishap! I realize this is now 3 months ago, were you able to repair it? Perhaps you could remove some areas of the lower layer of MDF and build it back with strips of 3/4" wood? I went that way because the wood has a better 'strength to weight' ratio. I used the MDF on the top b/c if you use plywood, it may not be as flat, but more importantly, it can delaminate from the laminate as it can expand more than MDF. MDF expands similarly to laminate. Hope things worked out for your countertop. Interesting that you did the paint on texture.
Thank you for demonstrating this process. Very helpful.
Thanks Marylou!
Awesome video, thank you
Thank you!
amazing video
Thank you, appreciate the feedback!
Wonderful tips and video! I have been trying to figure out how to use laminate with an undermount sink and you have done an excellent job answering my question. Thanks!
CarveTools, Thanks so much for your feedback!
- Beautiful job. Very helpful instructions. Particular thanx 4 sharing the Bible verse.
lady kenja, Thank you very much.
Great work and awesome Video skills!
Thank you 3D Concepts!
Super nice job, you make us think maybe we could do this.
Hello Sandra, you can do it! Just take small steps, and practice as you go. Sure you might make a small mistake, but often you may do better than you imagined!
Nice Work!.
Thanks for the feedback!
beautiful work sir, inspiring..
Thank you!
This is great on so many levels: great video, editing, tutorial, project, quality of work... Shame this is the only video you have made.
Subbed.
Dufffaas93, thank you so much for that encouragement and compliment!! Very kind of you... I'll tell you, you really made my day! : )
Because of all the work I put into this video, and realizing the method phase significant money, I wanted to monetize it (filming/editing/revising, and researching glues...etc. took a ton of work!) this video but I haven't figured out how to do it!
Also, I just finished our kitchen bench! And it has a ton of storage, so who knows maybe I'll do one on that or countertop edges...etc. But, I also now feel called to create content on matters that affect our lives of our children, and to encourage change. In our consumer lifestyle, it's easy to forget "what world are we leaving to our children?" And if we are not careful, we get caught up in chasing 'things'. But I love to work with my hands and make things so I will try to squeeze in some DIY videos coming up here soon thanks again for your kind words!!
thanks
Thanks for watching, Keith!
How do you finish the edges of the countertop? That is how do you mount a small strip of laminate and how do you get it to go at those angles? Paul
Excellent tutorial video, Richie -- more detailed and professional than most slick, professional videos I've seen from manufacturers. I have a question: what grits did you use on the belt sander and the orbital sander?
Linda, thank you! I started with 60 grit on the belt sander. Then as you get closer, I'd go to a flat sander with 100 grit.
Our plans changed not being able to afford granite. Our cabs & undermount s/s sink were already bought. The cabs now finished & installed, I'm left to figure out the sink ($470) install. Your example may be the ticket as any water will need to travel 1" thru epoxy & glue before leaking. I may feather the bondo out a bit more than you did (6-8") and scratch the s/s lip up really good before committing to laying on the plam. Knowing what to do and being prepared gives confidence needed to tackle this project and get it done by the holidays for cooking.
Ours is now 9-10 yrs old and looks exactly as it does in the video. Roughing up the edge gently of the SS sink should be plenty as the Gflex can bond to it. I glued a steel washer to a piece of aluminum ~3 yrs ago and cannot remove it! Not sure though you'd have to go to such lengths with feathering the bondo. I think the approximate amount I did in the video is good. Just make sure to get some deep below the surface to offer a stronger bond. Good luck.
@@i-changeus I'm going to go for it. Hard to find Gflex maybe an Amazon order. Found this to be a marine quality glue. Maybe some other product could be just as good? The s/s sink we plan to use is one-bowl 17x30. Thinking how violent the disposer can get sometimes (lol) let's hope there is no way the sink might crack the thin plam vibrating. Getting that sink lip bonded to the sub-straight should also be a focus point. I saw the bondo maybe making a hump in the front edge being a diff thickness also getting it sanded down good like you did to be unnoticeable. YEP...I can over think shtuff !
@@clutch5sp989 I think you should level it,(like I did in video) flush with screws to tweak the height. Then, consider lifting it out and putting plenty of bondo about 1/2" of bondo all the way around the perimeter BELOW the lip to secure it to the substrate, then press it in, (dont worry if some small amounts of bondo ooze out). Confirm it is flush and gently weight it to make sure it doesn't rise before it sets. Be careful to mix the Bondo correctly, without too much hardener so that it does not set up fast. (More time to work) I think that's what I would do for SS sink. Little more demanding on the leveling but better adhesion to laminate.
@@i-changeus Today is the day the sink goes in the top. I used high quality plywood and machined the inset for the sink lip. Made it a little deeper so the Bondo OR JB Weld could makeup the distance to flush. I'm using the screw leveling advise you showed and it's perfect. I also sealed the plywood sink cutout edges and back of countertop with a floor sealer product to help prevent rot in case of any leaks etc...I'm debating to use Bondo or long set time JB Weld for the initial sink setting to top adhesion. Then it's Bondo like you used to blend smooth the top. Imagine the disposer shaking the sink and cracking something later if not secured well? The sink is a single bowl 17"x30" +lip. It's huge.....Kraus product.
@@i-changeus PERFECT....everything worked out great and looks PERFECT. I did choose the JB long set time product. Also used it for the lip around the sink to Formica. The dark grey helped blend edge of plam to s/s. As a bonus, I used 1-1/4" (for the OD dims) pvc couplers epoxied into holes made in the top for faucet assys. No chance for leaks rotting the subtop.
Wow! Great video! I was wondering about installing the faucet in the granite. We didn't see this video before so ordered our countertops with a stainless steel undermount already attached. That means the sink itself doesn't have holes for the faucets and we need to drill into the countertop. We're scared to ruin them. How did you do yours? It looks great.
Sorry for the late reply! I somehow missed your question...But for any coming to this question now, There are special techniques for drilling into true granite (in this video, it is simulated granite) which is stone. But have not worked with granite, so I cannot share.
But as far as drilling into LAMINATE, I first created a small pilot hole, exactly where I wanted the faucets, and then put the larger drill bits into the pilot holes to guide them. Then it was similar to drilling thru MDF with just a sheet of plastic/resin on the top. The pilot holes are essential to 'guiding' the big drill bits and keeping them from 'drifting' all over your new laminate!
Hi, great video. What adhesive would you use for undermounting an anthracite sink to laminate?
Anthracite appears to be a brand name of basically a Granite sink. Which 'should' be easier to bond to than say, Acrylic...although I read that this version of granite might be less porous...so, would be best to do a test just like I did on the new sink or if you can find a sample of the material, if you want to test before purchasing.
Hi, Richie. Nice work. How impossible would this be to use a undermount/flushmount stainless steel sink and building up the gap between the bottom of the counter and the rim of the sink with epoxy/bondo? That part doesn't worry me too much (maybe because I'm crazy) but then i am stumped as to how to flush the laminate to the edge of the stainless sink. The sink wuold probably have a very small curve and I don't know if that would work. Maybe acrylic sinks have sharp angled rims, which is a key factor in laminate undermounts. Thanks for any thought.
Hi Am Cart, you are not crazy!, I very seriously contemplated a stainless steel sink, and even went so far as to purchase one but it ended up being warped--so I returned it, but that was a blessing in disguise, because I also realized it didn't have an sharp enough 90 edge!!
The edge is critical, just as you mentioned "I don't know if it would work"
If you look REAL CLOSELY at the SS Karran sink in Lowes or Home Depot, they have fairly sharp 90 edge, and the non-Karran / general undermount SS sinks usually have a short but gradual curve which makes it difficult to decide: "Where do I end the laminate?" The only SS sinks I know of that have that somewhat abrupt edge are the Karran ones. They also have a bondo/composite edge build up that makes it a little easier to integrate into the Substrate and the laminate. But all that said, I felt it was just 'easier' to go with an acrylic sink that would alow me more margin for error! : ) Thanks for your question!
Thank you for video ^^. Is there any requirement for the material of the sink? Can this method be applied to stainless steel sinks?
Hi, Yes there is, the more 'stable' the material the better, also, the more porous I would think the better. Also if you read the product insert, G-flex shows the bond strength for various metals. Also, If you read some of the comments, here 2 people have had success!
You don't want to be sanding laminate bit damage from your sink, ever. Amana has a tapered flush laminate bit or just bevel it by hand after the flush router pass.
Do you know if the gflex can be used to glue in a copper sink?
Great vid! Thank you.
G Flex 655 I’m told. So do you know if the automotive bondo will work on the copper?
I never tried it myself, my concern is that copper is soft, but would think it should work, and using something like 100 grit sandpaper would do well to prepare a good bonding surface, But after doing a quick search for: G/Flex 650-8 Epoxy Adhesion Data I found that WestSystems did test it (with Copper) and has instructions for preparing it, so check it out.
It has now been almost 6 years and our sink /laminate still looks like new, and I believe the tensile strength (of bonding to Acrylic) was rated at 400psi, and copper, far above that! But again, IF you can somehow get a scrap of the copper to do a test, that would answer the question for you, as you can witness the strength of the bond.
Renovate Richie thank you! One other question. Your acrylic sink has a pretty thick lip to it. My sink will have a very thin lip. Do you leave the leveling supports underneath the sink, fill that gap with something? or did you remove them? Also which bondo did you use? Seems there are many types.
Thanks again for this great vid and for taking the time to answer questions.
@@subvocal1 Great Question, I did leave my supports in as the Bondo is pressed in, it shaped itself around them, and therefore when dry, adds structural support. And I just used 'Bondo' brand. I made sure I got a fresh (where stack is replenished often and it's unlikely that it sat on the shelf for a year or two) can from wherever you purchase such supplies.
What’s the reason for no contact cement on the bondo just curious thanks
Contact cement is fine over the 'outer' parts of the bondo, but should NOT be applied to the sink edge. If you look at 8:45 you can see the contact cement coming close to the G-Flex but not quite touching
What CAD software did you use? It looks great!
Thanks Cerd71. I used C4D, but any basic 3D app would work. In retrospect, I would try to go for a kitchen designing app to save time, I spent too much building models!
Can you do a video on how to apply the endcaps?
Sorry for the delay. I will try. Thanks
G flex holidays for life😂😂😂😂😂
You haven't had an issues with the particle board getting wet? I read an undermout sink with laminate counter tops are not recommended due to water getting under the edges and damaging the tops.
When I was contemplating this countertop project I actually wanted to use 3/4 inch CDX plywood! But
expansion and flatness were factors, as I'll explain. I think the waterproof OSB would be an option too, but it doesn't lay as flat as MDF. (but you could skim coat it with bondo--but that would take alot of extra work!) I hate that MDF will 'crumble' on edges in certain ways, and that it is heavy, but the old countertop I pulled out was MDF, got wet a million times, but held, although it did delaminate. I do think MDF (paper fibers glued together) is far better than traditional particle board (sawdust glued together).
But, from all the research and reading I did on FABnet, other fabricating forums etc; the biggest issue
is always finding a substrate that expands or contracts at the same rate as the laminate itself otherwise it will delaminate, (due to temperature fluctuations) and would cause failure of the whole
counter top.
So I chose to use the 3/4" MDF, (identical expansion/contraction to laminate) Also Titebond III does an amazing job of waterproofing wood or in this case MDF to keep it stable/inert even if it does get wet, ours gets wet daily for 8-12hrs on the edges and and the seal around the sink is about an 1" deep of G-flex, which is even more water resistant!
So now at around 6 years out, it still looks amazing and exactly as it does in the video! Great question and one worth making a video on!!
Ritchie.... which color pattern of laminate is it that you used? Antique Mascarello? Lapidus Brown?
It IS Antique Mascarello! It's a beautiful, but I think too much of it in a kitchen can be too busy...we only did that island. The other counters have 'Black slate' laminate, its a 'rock' pattern but mostly black. Great contrast.
What did you do for the edges?
Hugh, I did traditional 'bevel edges'. I also hope to get a video done on edges as I had just a couple of DIY ideas.
Renovate Richie Hope you do! Your videos are really well done.
Where do I get the sink? Big Box store?
Terry, sorry for the delay. I bought it from 'FabSolution Sinks', but doing a search now (4 years after purchasing it) I cannot find the same retailer. But they advertised on thefabricatornetwork.com which is a great place to learn other helpful tips. Just about any acrylic undermount sink will do, again as stated in the video, likely the more 'solids' in the acrylic the better.
Also worth mentioning: In fact that site was instrumental for helping me learn about alternative glues to seam the edge of the bowl. Take a look here: www.thefabricatornetwork.com/Forum/tabid/164/aft/257724/Default.aspx
And 3M 5200 has been used by some pros, but it involved using an intermediate rim. G-flex works much better!
I am so sure that you will find good way to make it on woodprix.
Too much work for something that will not last.
It's now ~7years old and still looks exactly as it does in the video! And we give it heavy use daily!
I have been working with laminate for 24 years and you couldn't get any more wrong if you tried. Definitely no warranty and definitely going to fail. NEVER use a file on acrylic sinks!!! DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY!!!
There are always different ways to accomplish the same goal. The whole point of this video is to get professional results with more know how and less money. It's over 9years now as I write this, and the sink and countertop are used heavily, every day, and still is in pristine shape, no delaminating, no bulges, still looks exactly as in the video!