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DIY s52/M52 Oil Pump Rebuild
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- Опубліковано 18 лют 2018
- Today I show you how to rebuild a S/M50/2 Oil pump! only a few everyday tools and less than 1 hour of your time.
FCPeuro
BMW Timing Chain Tensioner Spring- goo.gl/SMDhDv
BMW Engine Oil Pump Seal - goo.gl/Cw4YgJ
BMW Oil Pump Control Valve - goo.gl/GkDfwv
BMW Engine Oil Pump Rotor Inner - goo.gl/dmmW16
BMW Engine Oil Pump Rotor Outer - goo.gl/NxHSo5
SHIRTS! SHIRTS!- teespring.com/stores/eurogara...
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![BMW E36 Engine Teardown [Pt 2]: How to remove pistons, oil pan, oil pump (m50 m52 s50 engines)](/img/n.gif)
Nice video as always. I'd recommend using assembly lube or plain motor oil during assembly since everything is as dry as it gets after applying brake clean.
MgBag It just needs to be primed with oil.
I have been waiting for you to upload... keep up the great work!
Nice video. I just disassembled mine, and have a comment to add for anyone trying it. I pulled the snap ring, and went to get my brake clean, to use your trick. As i walked away, the piston holding the spring back fired out like a gunshot. It flew across the garage and hit the door 20 feet away with a loud bang. Took me 30 minutes to find the piston. I'd recommend putting a rag behind the piston after the snap ring is out. Perhaps mine wasn't as gummed up as yours was.
Nice work man! Keep it up!
Nice video.
But i think it shouldn't be put together dry...
It just needs to be primed with oil.
Oil on the O-ring. Always lube all kinds of O rings / rubber gaskets with the substance they are going to be sealing.
Just lost respect after that comment. Putting o-rings in dry is just unwise.
The dimple on the outer rotor is supposed to face inwards from my understanding but you assembled is facing outwards. When I disassembled my stock pump, it was facing inwards and also the inner rotor only had one dimple on it and not 3 like yours. It also faced inwards. Maybe the direction they face is diffeent between your pump and mine?
Thanks for the video, Im building the same engine as you for my 1999 M3 Vert.
Tip: you shouldve filled it with assembly lube or oil just so it doesnt have a rough initial breakin and also so the pump is somewhat primed and keeps less air from being pumped into the oil passages. Before starting the motor just crank over the motor a few times to help prime the pump with oil from the oil pan before running the engine.
Hi! Nice video! Really helped me. Btw where could I buy the sproket nut? Thank you!
thanks
Do you know how to remove that inner rotor gear from the axle?
Use oil when assembling...
Great video but remember next time use some assembly lube to prevent a dry start up 😎
Nice work. Where did you purchase the Parts needed for rebuild? Greatings from Germany...
Well done! Have you considered changing the sproket as well? You mentionned it was loose at the beginning of the video, was it tight on the new shaft? Also i guess there's no ideal solution for the nut, are you concerned about imbalance due to the extra mass of the wire?
Thanks
Mathieu Bolduc the sprocket slack was gone when torqued down.
No I’m not really worried about the imbalance, it’s very common practice on many parts in many disciplines.
Great video as always. Are you still working with Garagistic? I'm about to do my first order from them
Kinda, on and off.
Can bad spring cause that my m50b20 ( hot engine) got almost
1 bar on idle but on 5000-6000 rpm i got only 2.8bar.... And that is max pressure. On manual there are written that on 5000-6000 should be minimum 4bar.
Installing an oring without oil is asking for the it to tear.
Do not assemble orings dry on anything
Where is my 10mm