555 A simple planer sled
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- For the past several months while I've been on the road for work my wife Samantha has been tackling a kitchen project.
I've been helping out where, and when I could, but for the most part it was all her sweat and effort going into it (and before anyone asks, no, I didn't build any cabinets or new doors for the kitchen.)
In fact, aside from removing a small partition wall, along with tearing out the countertops and backsplash, the project was really more of a "facelift" than remodel.
But now that it's completed, the one project Samantha requested all along was a set of live-edge shelves for where a cabinet once sat. I doubt I'll do much to document their installation; it's pretty straight-forward.
Probably the most difficult part of the build will be carefully drilling through ceramic tile to install them.
Of course with that said now, finding a way to mill the 12" wide boards I'm planning to use could've been an even bigger struggle if it weren't for my thickness planer sled.
On today's episode, we're breaking out the thickness planer sled, first featured in the Tall Dresser build, and putting it to use again.
Nice! I like this much better than the other excessively thick and complicated jigs.
Nice to see you back Matt. I'm from the Greenville/Belding area, but now but now, I live in the UP, eh. Many of your videos are great for persons like me. Small shop with limited resources. Your tips and tricks are very helpful to myself and others too. Thanks, and keep them coming.
Nice video: It would be possible to preserve some thickness by shimming from opposite corners. That should reduce the planing by half.
Darrell Thomson I agree with you 110% sir. In addition to what you said, thickness of the board won't be the same after planing, the shimmed end will be thinner than the clamped end.
Made one exactly like yours... Great Great Great... love it. Works beautifully. Hot glue simple and no damage to jig... Thanks so much!!! Keep on keepin' on!
Monte Hines this was going to be my question, if the glue damaged the jig.
Mat, glad to see you back. Not knocking just one detail. You could put one shim at the back and one at the front and plane away less wood to get your flat surface.
Where were you when I was doing it LOL! Actually...for the second board, I did something very similar. Thankfully I had already anticipated I was going to be removing a significant amount of material anyways, but if I had needed to remove far less, I would certainly have added a shim or two to the front to take fewer passes.Thanks for watching.
Nice to see you in the shop again Matt, cool tip on the shims and hot glue
Hot glue to the rescue!
You are super fun to listen to, learned something new today, thanks for sharing. Hope your wife loves her new shelves. : )
Thanks for the video and the tips. My son and I built this simple sled today to help setup my new DW734. We used 3/4 MDF for the base and a strip of 1/2 birch ply for the "toe kick"; it worked perfectly.
How has the mdf held up over time?
Very nice video. I especially appreciate your pacing. So many of these woodworking videos are either too rushed, or too chatty, or filled with uhs, ahs, and digressions. You get right to the point, proceed clearly and directly. And...no annoying music.
Good to see a new video from you Matt! Nice job with the sled and that wood is pretty.
Thickness planer is on my list. Saving for it now. Can't wait until I get one. This sled will come in handy once I get one.
Very good explanation, Matt. Appreciate the tips! Those are some monster freakin shelves for the kitchen!! Cheers
Matt, thanks for the info. You answered a lot of my questions in only 6 minutes. Excellent video!
Great to see you back, Matt!
Pretty excited I found this video. Headed to my local lumber supply so that I can make one today!
Great to have you back man! great setup!
Good to see your video's again. Great tip.Thanks for posting.
Matt, first time I saw one of your videos and what a great tip. Thanks!
That was helpful, thanks. Good to see you in the shop.
Nice easy jig. That’s what I like, EASY!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
great idea. Matt... Greetings from Pakistan 🤩🤩
great to see you back at it Matt!!!!!! hope all is well
All is good, thank you, and thanks for watching also!
Great technique- only tip is to do any good your stop should be on the trailing edge not the leading edge. In reality between the mass, the hot glue, and the roller pressure the stop is optional. I do use one but I glue it- no metal fasteners. Ask me why I know to avoid those LOL - I have some very cool nylon nails that my finish nailer can shoot - perfect for something like that.
Awesome idea man! Gives me ideas how to work around my 6" jointer issues in the future. What is it they say, but a jointer, and your next project will be bigger than the new jointer!
I have 15 teak boards 8" × 2" × 10 feet and some need attention. They are all rough sawn at present and I was going to make a steel frame to support a router to flatten one side. However I think your method is so simple and the hot glue seems foolproof. I have seen other more fussy ideas but yours seems really worth a firstvtry. All I have to do is buy a planer now. I'm in Asia expat so equipment is limited here. I do envy the Americans, you seem to be able to get anything there. Buying online for me can be complicated to get through customs and of course the extra tax is added. OH, I am making a large dining table. Cheers.
Good to see you again!
Matt, I'm using my wife's you tube and your idea is fantastic. I will use it many times, as I am cutting lumber tomorrow. Terry
A good thicknesser, the key to success. Good luck! Like!
Yes! the right tool makes all the difference.
He's back! Miss you on Wood talk. Hope your new job is going well.
Nice and simple.
Thank you!
Very Cool ! I have some foot wide red oak rough sawn boards that I need to surface for thirteen stair treads. I'll be giving your technique a tryout !!
I have been also been using this technique recently, and it does work quite well. I was shocked how well the hot glue holds.
I need to invest in my own hot glue gun. While my wife doesn't do a ton of crafts, it's amazing how quickly she notices when it's not in its usual hiding spot.
+Matt Vanderlist im in the same boat I'm using the wife's pink zebraprint hot glue gun
Thank you for the tips I really appreciate the information you provide thanks again
Thanks for watching.
Very helpful, thanks for sharing.
Well explained Matt, thanks!
Thanks!
I love your idea.
I assume for thinner boards you would have shims all the way to prevent the board bending under the rollers. This boards were quite thick: bending would have been unlikely. Like the thick chipboard, on my side of the world I'd have to glue 3x16mm together to get that sturdyness. Great vid.
Great idea! Really didn´t want to buy a jointer :)
Forgive my lack of attention if you already addressed the following, but the plank you were planing for cupboards is 6inch thick. Do you have access to a wood mill to make horizontal cuts in think planks or did you use the wood as a thick plank for the cupboards?
Simples, funcional e muito útil. Valeu a dica. Com certeza irei aproveitar a ideia. Parabéns!!!
Over the length of the board, does the center where it is not supported get pushed down by the rollers? Should the center be shimmed and every few inches / feet? I've always figured the rubber on the rollers pressed down a little deeper than the knives to ensure engagement and let the rubber "mush" out of the way normally.
Great question! Yes, if the board is bowed in a way that there's a gap between it and the sled, then it also should be shimmed.
I've used this technique a number of times, and everyone of those times, I've only needed to shim it where there's a gap and the boards turn out as expected.
With that said, I'll write an article about it later this week for my website, and go into a little more detail.
Nice job thanks for the tip
Great video. I'm just starting out in woodworking and can't afford both a jointer and planer. Would you say that I could get by without a jointer by using this technique and combining that with an "edge jointing jig" for the table saw?
Yes.
Hi from southeast Michigan!
going to build one for sure....but for squaring up edges what joiner would you recommend, very small shop, looking for an eight inch bench top
Wouldn't using a long sled also reduce snipe? Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent refresher. Thanks. I have the same planer as you, but I've never been happy with the thickness gage on it. I tried an after market gage, but still significant differences between what it is set at and actual board thickness. Do you do anything or is your gage accurate?
Thank you
Great tip Thanks
As a newbee to woodworking this sled is fine and will be an addition in my shed in the next few days, question is however is there a way to thickness shorter pieces of timber, say 9" with maybe 2 or 3 at a time when the thicknesser manufacturer recommends minimum lengths of 12"
YEAHHHHHHHHHH ,Matts Back!!!!!!
Awesome video, do you have any videos on building a jointer jig with the table saw?
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but what keeps the piece of particle board straight? Won't it just flex with any bow in the board?
Good video. I recently did this with several dozen 4/4 maple planks ~9' long. What I found is that the whole setup had to be very very rigid and very flat in order to work. Your very thick shelf piece provides the rigidity, so the jig just has to provide flatness.
But if you're working with 4/4 or thinner and only have a piece of 3/4 particle board or MDF under it, the planer rollers can actually bend the whole apparatus out of flat. I ended up making a long torsion box ~4" tall that was flat, but also much more rigid than just a piece of 3/4" material.
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Thanks for the video. Now if I'm planing very thin planks how do you suggest I secure them to the sled? With hot glue gun?
The ideal way is to shim both ends equally so you remove as less material as possible
Yes, that is an exceptional way to do it to remove less material, thankfully I already had planned to remove a lot more, so it worked out for me. Thanks for watching.
Dude, you're back! Where'd you go?
Thanks for the tip Matt. Do you get any snipe when using your sled?
I did get a little at first. I discovered my outfeed roller wasn't high enough to properly support the sled as it passed all the way through. After a quick adjustment, I was able to reduce it to practically nothing. Of course, I usually leave the boards a little long just in case. Thanks for watching!
With that jig setup aren’t you running it through backwards?
nope, since the planer is wanting to push the wood forward the plate should be at the front to stop it from pushing the top piece off and leaving the bottom piece in place
@@seejohnmake interestingly yours is the only video I have found with the plate at the front. having just tried a similar jig and had wood pulled through and off the wedges, it would appear to make more sense to have the plate at the leading edge as the rollers create more forward force than the blades backwards force.
"I've got little to no play. Yes, I have no play at all."
Why did you not put one shim per side?
A variation on the theme ... my planer has it's drive rollers in the top, above the board you'd be feeding through. Therefore, the cleat must be on the top, front of the sled. Don't ask me how I discovered this fact.
How quickly does using the hot glue repeatedly on the sled make that unusable?
unrelated question. Do you have an issue with dust being sucked in to furnace
Does the sled control snip?
instead of glue or tap i use 80 grit sand paper.
What about snipe?
Why are you feeding the sled in backwards? That defeats the purpose of the kick back block you screwed down at the end.
Noticed the shirt. Are you a fellow Michigander?
born and raised! I love going up north, and drinking both Faygo and Vernors...and kind of miss Towne Club Soda (I think I have a case of empties I inherited sitting around here somewhere also?)
+Matt Vanderlist lol well up north can mean anything in this state. Do you mean the u.p.? I lived there for 7 years! Marquette to be precise. Grand Rapids is my stomping ground now. Anyways, love your work. Your beard comb video brought me here. Wish I had the tools to make one haha. Thanks, brother!
+Jdyke2059 I'm on the shoreline just West of you. Originally from the Detroit area, so up North is everything north of a line from Detroit to Muskegon LOL!
Thanks for watching!
how do you hadle longer boards?
Longer jig.
Hi Matt.... I'm assuming this sled will eliminate planer snipe as well ?
I wouldn't go so far as to ever say "eliminate" but at least help to further minimize.
OK Matt thanks....great video
You have the end board screwed onto your sled to keep the board from sliding off the end of the sled; so why did you then put *that* end into the planer first? It seems it should be at the back.
Larry B good catch. But then I thought about it and I’m guessing it’s because of the direction the rollers are feeding the stock through. Perhaps the rollers are actually pushing it against the toe kick.
Ha, just did the sled trick exactly like this yesterday for some 14/4 cedar.
1008th!