We are using the glue stick trick on the magnetic bed, with a 20mm/s for most of our prints, which let us print with just skirts, and are very happy with the quality for the price,
I’ve also found that 200c-210c works very well for my prints too. As a side note, I’ve also found that using a soldering iron to join, correct, or repair prints that 185c-195c works as a good starting point. I can always go up the extra amount, if I need, but the heat moves to quick at higher temps. Thanks again for your video!
Great video! I've been using Cura 4 with 40mm/s, 0.1mm layer height, 200 °C and the output is pretty reliable, after 100-or-so hours of operation. If I had to complain, the extruder retraction default settings seems to be a bit too short(compared to the provided slicer) and it's adding some stringing to the prints. Nothing that can't be experimentally fixed, just annoying.
Great great video, so useful, I bought this printer and I love it because it's my first 3D printer, but the main board damaged, so, while the spare arrives, I will use it with a ramps, the settings of the steps were very useful, thank you. Saludos desde colombia.
@@Zachary3DPrints Can you help me watching in the pronterface, the setting of step/mm forthe extruder? to calibrate mine, because of mine is damaged, I cant do that
Hello Luis, did you get the same board? If so, it's not really possible to calibrate the printer, since Easythreed 3D stated that this is a kids 3D printer, however, I did find a way to crack the firmware, this video is going to come pretty soon.There is a lot of work in this process which I recorded, but I need to do some other things in the mean time. I will come back to you, to help and support you with the issue. OK?
Sorry for my late reply! You still having issues? Try to clean the bed almost every time, if possible. And make sure that the is on the same level on all 4 corners on the printer. Slow the print speed to like 30mm/s and use the printing temp of 205-210
Hi!, excuse me; I purchased this 3d printer on ebay and after the first printed experiments I noticed that circles and rounded parts are somehow "squared", I just tight the belts and had better results but I cannot tight them anymore and the problem persists, do you have any tutorial or something to correct this? thank you very much for the info you can provide!
I did do some more videos on this printer and they are in the same playlist from this printer, please check it on my channel. Sorry for the late respons back.
Sad to hear. If you need to level the Easythreed X1, heat up the printer by pressing the feed button, and after heating, press it again, so it doesn't feed filament in the nozzle. Home the printer, put a piece of paper between the nozzle and the first thumbscrew. If it grips a little bit, move the printhead to the next point repeat the leveling there, move the bed to the next point and continue the bed leveling until all 4 corners has the same grip on the paper. Download the latest Cura, add this printer as a custom printer, 100x100x100mm, No heated bed and by tab Extruder check if the nozzle is 1.75mm. Please check this video again to follow the right slicer settings
In the start Gcode from the Creality Ender 3 Pro there is a part after the G28 home all axises. Copy that part of the start Gcode and paste it into your Easythreed X1 start Gcode after the G28. Make sure that this little piece of code is adapted to the length of your bed
Your remarks on missing bootloader are wrong. Printer could store custom settings to EEPROM (commands M500 etc), it has nothing to do with bootloader. Issue is that firmware in the printer doesn't support EEPROM, this can be verified with some experiment (M500, M501, M502, M503) or with ISP programmer, like AVRDUDE with programming probe, Marlin in this printer doesn't touch EEPROM in ATMEGA1284P, it is empty. This is just a firmware configuration it has nothing to do with bootloader, printer just ignores commands M500 and M501.. Bootloader is an extra code that allows to upgrade firmware directly over USB cable, without need of a special hardware, like USBASP dongle. I am not sure if bootloader is there, I have not tested it and it is not important for common user. Other serious issue of this small printer is backlash, firmware doesn't support command M425 to compensate backlash in the firmware; this is serious design failure because motors used in this printer are source of high backlash, like 0.3 or 0.5 mm; it is visible when you try print round objects, you cannot print perfect circle, in most cases circle is deformed. It is possible to pre-process G-CODE with anti-backlash filter, it will modify moves of nozzle with extra steps to compensate backlash. This could be a topic for another video... ;-)
Dude thank you for your comment on this video... Yeah that was me back then... I still need to learn a lot, but I'll get there. I did use the programmer last time and it was great. Last week livestream I did work on the Easythreed Board
well, i own a Easythreed X1 - but, to be fair, it can't get higher than 40mm/s in Printing speed. so there must be something wrong with the 60mm/s... actual, i use it in cura 15 with Draft, 0,2 Layer high, 195° or 210°c Temperature (depends on the PLa - that's what i want to know what one you use on that "grey" calibration cubes) and 40mm/s printing speed. i also set up "retract at z-Hop" for better printing results, travel-speed is at 50mm/s. with the "gift" - Pla i get very good results out of that, even without any raft / brim / skirt. But, to be fair, i also had printing issues, especially when it were bigger prints - even the benchy with raft "must" be secured with tape, that the print wouldn't fail at all. i even had issues with "noyes" - filament, but that's a problem from the filament... it broke 3 weeks later after first use, as it were many years old. but with the given filament (i don't know the brand, that were interesting what for a brand it was) it produce very high-quality prints, what doesn't let that printer look like a toy. now i'm trying another filaments, maybe i find one who let the prints in the same or better quality as the given one.
Cura 15? But with the given settings should this also work in Cura 4.7... after some board issues that I got because of calibration that I wanted to do, my prints are going well. Soon a new video about it.
@@Zachary3DPrints What's the topic of the new video about the Easythreed X1 going to be? Mine will arrive monday and that's why I'm trying to soak up every last bit of information about this printer.
@@Zachary3DPrints there are 50 different ways to make your bed sticky.. just thought of trying to use ski wax.. stays tacky and will not dry...even with squeezing the first layer and using a raft nothing... they suggest high quality Pla+... i had a roll and it sticks like hot glue..
Ja dat klopt, deze printer valt onder custom FFF printer, deze moet je manueel invoeren. 100x100x100 mm, no heatbed, nozzle 0.4mm, Marlin als firmware en print snelheid op 30-50mm/s
Thanks for the video. Have you experienced z-axis issues with the Easythreedx1? my prints suddenly have compressed lower layers but the rest of the layers print properly. I end up with an uneven shorter print vertically whether i use ideamaker or cura.
Nice sir,we have same printer but why I put in the files from fusion 360 trial version to easyware or cura the quality is not nice I blur,but when I make in fusion so nice.so when I print so so disappointed
Hello buddy, so you created something in Fusion360 and later you want to print this? Which Slicer did you use? Try Cura 4.8, follow the instructions of this video and save it on the Micro SD card. The printer should print it just fine. Think about slow printing speed at 30-50 mm/s
i tried your recommended settings and the settings for the best print you got and its no different, ive tried hundreds of different settings, both small and large on the same cube and none of them are good, they all seem to have the same problems despite me having a bigger printer and using he same settings to fix the common problems, still not good print from my one
@@Zachary3DPrints yes i have the easythreed X1, it is the exact same as yours and it has 2 fans, one for the extruder and one for the moter, both work fine as i have done my own mods to the machiene, giving it a better fan port and such and still no good results, i have since made my shell and bottom/top thickness a little thiker and added 17% infll along with a 15% speed, the prints are coming out good, not great but good and possibly workable. I am getting some problems but ile have to do anther cube to know what they are for sure
I have always suspected my Easythreed Nano might be a terrific little printer, if the slicer weren't of toy quality. When I have time and more experience I'll work on it.
Hey, did you try the mentioned settings in the description of this video? If not, contact me over on Facebook page Zachary 3D Prints and I can send you my settings
Hello, yes indeed, I'm from the Netherlands. Do you want the slicer settings? Or you want to get help in setting this printer up in Cura or Prusa Slicer?
@@lonelyblackhole727 well, maybe i had one of them... i had a part-cooler in it, who was build in - and don't need of printing my own, like the most other need to do.
We are using the glue stick trick on the magnetic bed, with a 20mm/s for most of our prints, which let us print with just skirts, and are very happy with the quality for the price,
That's a great idea! I did try it 1 or 2 times, but it didn't worked out that well
U mean the iron thing below the beds or are you using the beds cuz the beds kinda suck for me :/
I’ve also found that 200c-210c works very well for my prints too. As a side note, I’ve also found that using a soldering iron to join, correct, or repair prints that 185c-195c works as a good starting point. I can always go up the extra amount, if I need, but the heat moves to quick at higher temps. Thanks again for your video!
Sorry for my late reply. Oh that is great to hear. I always use 200-210 as printing temp.
Great video! I've been using Cura 4 with 40mm/s, 0.1mm layer height, 200 °C and the output is pretty reliable, after 100-or-so hours of operation.
If I had to complain, the extruder retraction default settings seems to be a bit too short(compared to the provided slicer) and it's adding some stringing to the prints. Nothing that can't be experimentally fixed, just annoying.
Yeah true, I didn’t say that much stringing. I’ll look for that soon
Great great video, so useful, I bought this printer and I love it because it's my first 3D printer, but the main board damaged, so, while the spare arrives, I will use it with a ramps, the settings of the steps were very useful, thank you. Saludos desde colombia.
Hey that’s great. What happened that the main board got damaged?
@@Zachary3DPrints I don't know, maybe a peak of voltage damaged the integrated.
@@Zachary3DPrints Can you help me watching in the pronterface, the setting of step/mm forthe extruder? to calibrate mine, because of mine is damaged, I cant do that
Hello Luis, did you get the same board? If so, it's not really possible to calibrate the printer, since Easythreed 3D stated that this is a kids 3D printer, however, I did find a way to crack the firmware, this video is going to come pretty soon.There is a lot of work in this process which I recorded, but I need to do some other things in the mean time.
I will come back to you, to help and support you with the issue. OK?
@@Zachary3DPrints Ok, thank you for your attention, I am using the Ramps 1.4, because the spare has not arrived yet.
hi what do you use to get the print to stick to the bed, ive levelled my bed, but nothing wants to stick. cheers.
Sorry for my late reply! You still having issues? Try to clean the bed almost every time, if possible. And make sure that the is on the same level on all 4 corners on the printer. Slow the print speed to like 30mm/s and use the printing temp of 205-210
Hi!, excuse me; I purchased this 3d printer on ebay and after the first printed experiments I noticed that circles and rounded parts are somehow "squared", I just tight the belts and had better results but I cannot tight them anymore and the problem persists, do you have any tutorial or something to correct this? thank you very much for the info you can provide!
I did do some more videos on this printer and they are in the same playlist from this printer, please check it on my channel. Sorry for the late respons back.
I am having so much trouble zeroing in mine. Not a successful print yet but I have been using cura 15
Sad to hear. If you need to level the Easythreed X1, heat up the printer by pressing the feed button, and after heating, press it again, so it doesn't feed filament in the nozzle. Home the printer, put a piece of paper between the nozzle and the first thumbscrew. If it grips a little bit, move the printhead to the next point repeat the leveling there, move the bed to the next point and continue the bed leveling until all 4 corners has the same grip on the paper.
Download the latest Cura, add this printer as a custom printer, 100x100x100mm, No heated bed and by tab Extruder check if the nozzle is 1.75mm. Please check this video again to follow the right slicer settings
I thought that the X1 could only print at 40 mm/s top speed, does it really go any faster than 40 mm/s?
With 40mm/s you get the best results
how do you get the filament to make a line before the actual print?
In the start Gcode from the Creality Ender 3 Pro there is a part after the G28 home all axises.
Copy that part of the start Gcode and paste it into your Easythreed X1 start Gcode after the G28. Make sure that this little piece of code is adapted to the length of your bed
Your remarks on missing bootloader are wrong. Printer could store custom settings to EEPROM (commands M500 etc), it has nothing to do with bootloader. Issue is that firmware in the printer doesn't support EEPROM, this can be verified with some experiment (M500, M501, M502, M503) or with ISP programmer, like AVRDUDE with programming probe, Marlin in this printer doesn't touch EEPROM in ATMEGA1284P, it is empty. This is just a firmware configuration it has nothing to do with bootloader, printer just ignores commands M500 and M501.. Bootloader is an extra code that allows to upgrade firmware directly over USB cable, without need of a special hardware, like USBASP dongle. I am not sure if bootloader is there, I have not tested it and it is not important for common user. Other serious issue of this small printer is backlash, firmware doesn't support command M425 to compensate backlash in the firmware; this is serious design failure because motors used in this printer are source of high backlash, like 0.3 or 0.5 mm; it is visible when you try print round objects, you cannot print perfect circle, in most cases circle is deformed. It is possible to pre-process G-CODE with anti-backlash filter, it will modify moves of nozzle with extra steps to compensate backlash. This could be a topic for another video... ;-)
Dude thank you for your comment on this video... Yeah that was me back then... I still need to learn a lot, but I'll get there. I did use the programmer last time and it was great. Last week livestream I did work on the Easythreed Board
well, i own a Easythreed X1 - but, to be fair, it can't get higher than 40mm/s in Printing speed. so there must be something wrong with the 60mm/s...
actual, i use it in cura 15 with Draft, 0,2 Layer high, 195° or 210°c Temperature (depends on the PLa - that's what i want to know what one you use on that "grey" calibration cubes) and 40mm/s printing speed. i also set up "retract at z-Hop" for better printing results, travel-speed is at 50mm/s. with the "gift" - Pla i get very good results out of that, even without any raft / brim / skirt. But, to be fair, i also had printing issues, especially when it were bigger prints - even the benchy with raft "must" be secured with tape, that the print wouldn't fail at all. i even had issues with "noyes" - filament, but that's a problem from the filament... it broke 3 weeks later after first use, as it were many years old.
but with the given filament (i don't know the brand, that were interesting what for a brand it was) it produce very high-quality prints, what doesn't let that printer look like a toy. now i'm trying another filaments, maybe i find one who let the prints in the same or better quality as the given one.
Cura 15? But with the given settings should this also work in Cura 4.7... after some board issues that I got because of calibration that I wanted to do, my prints are going well. Soon a new video about it.
@@Zachary3DPrints What's the topic of the new video about the Easythreed X1 going to be? Mine will arrive monday and that's why I'm trying to soak up every last bit of information about this printer.
In the New video, I changed the controller board of the X1
Question is How do you get it to stick to the none heated base Tape seems to be my best option since glue stick only worked once!!
I'm thinking about it to make 1 or videos about this printer, one of it would be this topic
@@Zachary3DPrints there are 50 different ways to make your bed sticky.. just thought of trying to use ski wax.. stays tacky and will not dry...even with squeezing the first layer and using a raft nothing... they suggest high quality Pla+... i had a roll and it sticks like hot glue..
Did you make those stands for the printer?? Have the same printer and would love to do that to it!
I did found those stands on thingiverse, but soon I'll be modifying this printer a lot.
Hi can you please share your best profile for cura? Dankie
For this printer, I mention the settings, they are also in the description.
Hey hoe heb je die stand offs gemaakt zo dat je controle box er onder kan liggen
Ik heb in een eerder video gemeld welke standoffs ik heb gebruikt, kijk anders eventjes op Thingiverse onder Easythreed X1
Hallo, in Cura, moet je een merk printer opgeven. De X1 staat daar niet bij .
Ja dat klopt, deze printer valt onder custom FFF printer, deze moet je manueel invoeren. 100x100x100 mm, no heatbed, nozzle 0.4mm, Marlin als firmware en print snelheid op 30-50mm/s
Thanks for the video. Have you experienced z-axis issues with the Easythreedx1? my prints suddenly have compressed lower layers but the rest of the layers print properly. I end up with an uneven shorter print vertically whether i use ideamaker or cura.
Yup, so true. I had the same issue. For that reason, you didn't see a running printer. I'm going to check with Easythreed to get this issue solved
Nice sir,we have same printer but why I put in the files from fusion 360 trial version to easyware or cura the quality is not nice I blur,but when I make in fusion so nice.so when I print so so disappointed
Hello buddy, so you created something in Fusion360 and later you want to print this? Which Slicer did you use? Try Cura 4.8, follow the instructions of this video and save it on the Micro SD card. The printer should print it just fine. Think about slow printing speed at 30-50 mm/s
@@Zachary3DPrints thanks buddy for your effort to reply me I appreciate,okay I will try or else I will ask help again to you
Sure, I love to help
i tried your recommended settings and the settings for the best print you got and its no different, ive tried hundreds of different settings, both small and large on the same cube and none of them are good, they all seem to have the same problems despite me having a bigger printer and using he same settings to fix the common problems, still not good print from my one
Did you also use a parts cooling fan?
@@Zachary3DPrints yes i have the easythreed X1, it is the exact same as yours and it has 2 fans, one for the extruder and one for the moter, both work fine as i have done my own mods to the machiene, giving it a better fan port and such and still no good results, i have since made my shell and bottom/top thickness a little thiker and added 17% infll along with a 15% speed, the prints are coming out good, not great but good and possibly workable. I am getting some problems but ile have to do anther cube to know what they are for sure
Could u do this for the x4
I don't have that printer... but you can use the same method on the X4 as well
X1 specification says printing speed 10 - 40 mm/sec., you choose 60 mm/sec.!?
Yes indeed, but less print quality, more ringing visible
hi bro ... can it print directly from the pc using easyware or cura instead of saving to a SD card. Thanks
I have tested many times with Cura, that you can connect it with USB and controlling it and send Gcodes
@@Zachary3DPrints thanks bro
My X1 works very well, but i've accidentally deleted my software from the tf card. Do you know where i can get replacement software?
I have them somewhere, I'll come back over that
Do you still need the software? I got it saved, if you still need it.
@@Mimonsi Yeah bro please share on some web hosting,or link,thanks
I have always suspected my Easythreed Nano might be a terrific little printer, if the slicer weren't of toy quality. When I have time and more experience I'll work on it.
Pygar2 it does have great print quality, but you have to dial it in, and that takes some time. Have fun
@@Zachary3DPrints Do you have a profile you might be willing to share? It's my first printer and I'm not exactly overwhelmed with experience...
Hey, did you try the mentioned settings in the description of this video? If not, contact me over on Facebook page Zachary 3D Prints and I can send you my settings
@@Zachary3DPrints I'm not on Facebook, but thanks anyway. Could you export your profile and post it on WeTransfer?
Yes that is possible, I'll check if I can add extra webpages to my website, with this kind of downloads on it...
Goeie dag als ik het goed hoor aan je acent ben uw nederlands als dat klopt is het mogelijk om wat hulp te kunnen krijgen betreft het computer werk
Hello, yes indeed, I'm from the Netherlands. Do you want the slicer settings? Or you want to get help in setting this printer up in Cura or Prusa Slicer?
@@Zachary3DPrints I knew it. You are dutch :-)
It's a nice printer but it will need some mods I guess...👍
luis manchego there are some mods coming for this printer. Just a few small ones
The new version has fix most of the problems of the first version plus it includes new upgrades
@@lonelyblackhole727 well, maybe i had one of them... i had a part-cooler in it, who was build in - and don't need of printing my own, like the most other need to do.