I agree with you totally regarding the brass screws here. I stopped using any brass screws for major structural or major moving parts on tools, they tend to develop creep and stress cracks after time.. They can sometimes snap off without warning. I would replace the ones going into the casting with high tensile screws. My experience, just 304 steel will do the job, forget any kind of brass of the job. As for bronze, perhaps they're OK, knowing high tension electrical, heavy gauge bus-bars are fastened with phosphor bronze fasteners with great amount of torque..
The fit and finish of the Woodriver planes is lacking to say the least. I picked up a 5-1/2 about two years ago and it took me quite awhile to tune it up. That’s the last Woodriver plane I will buy. The whole thing had a bad taste about it. Glad to see you are happy with your purchase.
LN doesn’t make these anymore. I might pick up a Woodriver at some point - would be fun to have. I won’t pay the prices for Stanley (unless I find it at a ridiculously good price somehow). Not the most useful planes, but they’re so cute. =p
Hi Chester. Very informative Do you know if the machine screws of the lie Nielsen are bronze or brass? One advantage of having brass over steel might be that if over torqued the thread would strip from the screws rather than the casing, making repair easier and cheaper.
They appear, to me, to be brass. I might agree on the benefit of a brass screw in an iron frog but in the case where the brass screw is in a brass frog I’m not sure which threads might shear first. The head of the screw is definitely weaker and more susceptible to wear and twist over a steel screw. That said, if one is careful and considerate with them, as I am, they appear to hold up alright. Using the proper sized driver and not over tightening will help. Also, I always loosen the hold down screw and place the lever in loosely with the lever down. Then I tighten up the screw to snugness. Then I release the cam, give a slight rotation tightening and then snap down the cam lever. I have seen damage where someone assumes the screw is at the right height and clamps down the lever too tightly thus damaging the underside of the head of the screw.
@@ChetSpier That's a sensible technique. I just snug up to the point the blade doesn't shift in normal use, which in sure is less than intended, and only tighten further if needed.
Agreed, as these aren’t high load/torque verified fasteners, it’s a better practice to use equal or softer fasteners, it’s lot easier to replace a fastener vs. doing thread repairs (helicoil/twinserts/etc).
I wonder if you have looked into the Veritas No.1. I have only looked at it on a computer screen but it appears to display the refinement, innovation, and attention to detail that Veritas does so well. I am thinking of purchasing one and would appreciate your input. And thanks for the video.
@@ChetSpier I thought you might be interested to know that I have since purchased the Veritas No. 1 and so far I am very favorably impressed with its feel and performance. After watching the video about your experience with the Veritas shooting plane, I was careful to examine the No. 1 thoroughly. It is all that I expected. On another topic, I recently bought an English Stanley No. 71 (new old stock) in the original box with accessories at a garage sale. The seller informed me that the adjuster screw nut in the box was the wrong one. I tried the one from my (made in USA) 71 1/2 and it worked. This surprised me because I thought the English screw might have metric threads. But I wonder if you have any ideas about dating English Stanleys as I've been unable to find any info about this. The knobs are painted black. All the metal parts are nickel plated. Thanks again for all your videos.
Interesting video. But if are going to compare WoodRiver and Lie Nielson to traditional Stanleys, you should be using a Bedrock Plane. The new planes are based on the Stanley Bedrock, not the common frog mount shown here.
That would be fine for the larger planes but this was specifically about the No 1 size and not a general comparison. Stanley never mad a “Bedrock” no 1 so that renders your suggestion, impossible.
yer well what can one say. lie-Nielsen megger bucks wood river just about affordable that's the difference Stanley weather British or American still a brill plane.
I agree with you totally regarding the brass screws here. I stopped using any brass screws for major structural or major moving parts on tools, they tend to develop creep and stress cracks after time.. They can sometimes snap off without warning. I would replace the ones going into the casting with high tensile screws. My experience, just 304 steel will do the job, forget any kind of brass of the job. As for bronze, perhaps they're OK, knowing high tension electrical, heavy gauge bus-bars are fastened with phosphor bronze fasteners with great amount of torque..
The fit and finish of the Woodriver planes is lacking to say the least. I picked up a 5-1/2 about two years ago and it took me quite awhile to tune it up. That’s the last Woodriver plane I will buy. The whole thing had a bad taste about it. Glad to see you are happy with your purchase.
LN doesn’t make these anymore. I might pick up a Woodriver at some point - would be fun to have. I won’t pay the prices for Stanley (unless I find it at a ridiculously good price somehow).
Not the most useful planes, but they’re so cute. =p
Hi Chester. Very informative Do you know if the machine screws of the lie Nielsen are bronze or brass? One advantage of having brass over steel might be that if over torqued the thread would strip from the screws rather than the casing, making repair easier and cheaper.
They appear, to me, to be brass. I might agree on the benefit of a brass screw in an iron frog but in the case where the brass screw is in a brass frog I’m not sure which threads might shear first. The head of the screw is definitely weaker and more susceptible to wear and twist over a steel screw. That said, if one is careful and considerate with them, as I am, they appear to hold up alright. Using the proper sized driver and not over tightening will help. Also, I always loosen the hold down screw and place the lever in loosely with the lever down. Then I tighten up the screw to snugness. Then I release the cam, give a slight rotation tightening and then snap down the cam lever. I have seen damage where someone assumes the screw is at the right height and clamps down the lever too tightly thus damaging the underside of the head of the screw.
@@ChetSpier That's a sensible technique. I just snug up to the point the blade doesn't shift in normal use, which in sure is less than intended, and only tighten further if needed.
Agreed, as these aren’t high load/torque verified fasteners, it’s a better practice to use equal or softer fasteners, it’s lot easier to replace a fastener vs. doing thread repairs (helicoil/twinserts/etc).
Thank you for making this video. I do appreciate the effort and the input provided in this video.
zolek2003 thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing, always nice to see, considering I am always looking for planes and don't have any experience. Nice.
Carbonite Gamorrean I appreciate the comment. I hope I am sharing something helpful and worthwhile.
Love your stuff.
Carbonite Gamorrean thank you kindly.
Nothing beats an original stanley... but LN sure does come close
Muy buena revicion amigo...
I wonder if you have looked into the Veritas No.1. I have only looked at it on a computer screen but it appears to display the refinement, innovation, and attention to detail that Veritas does so well. I am thinking of purchasing one and would appreciate your input. And thanks for the video.
I have just recently seen it. Interesting. A bevel up low angle No 1
@@ChetSpier I thought you might be interested to know that I have since purchased the Veritas No. 1 and so far I am very favorably impressed with its feel and performance. After watching the video about your experience with the Veritas shooting plane, I was careful to examine the No. 1 thoroughly. It is all that I expected.
On another topic, I recently bought an English Stanley No. 71 (new old stock) in the original box with accessories at a garage sale. The seller informed me that the adjuster screw nut in the box was the wrong one. I tried the one from my (made in USA) 71 1/2 and it worked. This surprised me because I thought the English screw might have metric threads. But I wonder if you have any ideas about dating English Stanleys as I've been unable to find any info about this. The knobs are painted black. All the metal parts are nickel plated. Thanks again for all your videos.
Interesting video. But if are going to compare WoodRiver and Lie Nielson to traditional Stanleys, you should be using a Bedrock Plane. The new planes are based on the Stanley Bedrock, not the common frog mount shown here.
That would be fine for the larger planes but this was specifically about the No 1 size and not a general comparison. Stanley never mad a “Bedrock” no 1 so that renders your suggestion, impossible.
Is it better to get a block plane.
i would say so, unless you do alot of small work and need a smoothing plane with a higher angle of cut.
yer well what can one say. lie-Nielsen megger bucks wood river just about affordable that's the difference Stanley weather British or American still a brill plane.
This is why I go out of my way to avoid Made in China crap!