I’m afraid I’m a 5 1/2 lover but mine is a spiers of ayre infill plane an absolute joy to use so the first plane I gravitate to every time I’m in the shop Love your enthusiasm for this subject which has ruled my entire life Keep up the good work
This puts you on a higher PLANE. No need to ADJUST the screen, LATERALLY or any other way. My MOUTH was wide open the whole time. You're really SMOOTH. You're definitely not SQUARE!!! Thanks James. And have a blessed Christmas.
Hi from the UK you so have answered my Conundrum question thank you sir what a bloody mind field but after watching your video I have found the answer to my question toodaloo old chap
The #5-1/4 was very common in public schools where smaller hands, arms, and bodies were better accommodated by the smaller dimensions of the #5-1/4. They were significantly cheaper than #5s in quantity. It was my brilliant shop teachers go-to plane. Well into my 70s, I love my #5-1/4s (yep, I have 2 of them) as smoothers since it takes smaller bites which helps mitigate my loss of strength. Following that theme, my #3 gets more use these days too. Some days my trusty #6 takes over for my #7, etc.. However the slightly longer #5-1/4 will certainly joint smaller stock. Right back where I started... Lasty I’m a bit ham-fisted and #4s crowd my grip, where the #3 and #5 family don’t. All my remaining #4s, except my Footprint #4, and Veritas #4 bevel-up are shelf warmers. Their totes are roomy.
Thanks for this video. I was totally confused about the types of planes and numbers. Your video has helped me a lot in understanding the different planes. As a beginning woodworker at an older age, I know now what planes I will look for and need.
I started with a crappy 12-204 Stanley(which ive put quite a bit of work into, now its nice!) And a 69½ block. Then i got a no6C type 11... Then a no3 type??. I feel like for my NYC apartment woodworking all i need(lol) now is a no10. Id love to get one of them to clean up my tenon's and laps better. I always love your content, James.
I followed your chanel for quite a while now and remember a few times you spoke about the #1. Congrats for having them all on your bench at last. And thank you for this great overview!
Good job sir I've got a no 3 Then my grandfather gave me a no 5 1/2 my best since 1995 I don't need anything else thank you for sharing this information god bless
Love my 5.5 plane - it’s the only plane I’ve properly ‘clicked’ with (block plane notwithstanding). Had the 4 and 5 before it, and could never quite get them to work, never knew why
Nice explanation , now i know what theyre all for i might use em more. Was on ebay looking for a christmas prezzie for my mother a couple of hours ago....Now ive got a No.7 on its way...she'll love it.
My favorite plane is one I don't think any collector is looking for. It's not a Stanley or Bedrock or Veritas or Lie-Neilson. It's a Dunlap No.3 which I don't believe is really in any relation to the Stanley No. 3. I think it was just the third plane they made. It was a line made by two different companies for Sears & Roebuck and my particular one was made in 1939. It was purchased by my great grandfather who passed it to my Pépère who passed it to my Dad who passed it to me. Growing up I remember watching my Pépère do a lot of things with it and my Dad mostly used it as a carpenter's tool to shave stubborn wooden doors and stuck storm windows. When I got it it had lain in a drawer in a workbench in the cellar for years. I had to restore it including replacing the handle and the screw that attached it. It must have been dropped at some point as it was cracked in half the the screw was bent. A week soaking it in coke a cola saw all the grime and most of the rust come off. The japanning was still in perfect condition and all the other parts were good. There was one drip of grey paint on the fore knob which I did not clean off. I remember how that drip got there. My Pépère and Dad were repainting the pipes they used for pipe clamps and a stray drip was lain. It's great for smoothing. It has everything except the frog adjust screw. I don't think they ever implemented it. You can adjust the frog but you have to loosen the two screws that secure it to the bed and slide the frog in it's slots. I don't care how worthless it is. It's my favorite plane.
Hahaha great video, this one slightly hit a nerve!. A couple of years ago I decided that I would like to learn something and use my hands ... yep woodwork was the one as I've alway's been a keen DIYer so woodwork seemed the next step. Even though I have never done any of this before, but yet suddenly I decided that while I saved to build my own workshop I would take my time and start purchasing things for my as of yet unbuilt shop!. Over the past two year's I decided that because I'm from the UK and Stanley's a well known company the world through, I thought yep Stanley's handplanes especially when I keep seeing the UA-cam woodworkers had rather nice ways to display their tools not everyone but alot ! So like I said I started buying the Stanley planes and over the past two year's I have managed to buy a good collection of them but unfortunately no number 1 anywhere 😕 😢 😐 😔2 to 8 yep got them! Now the thing is as I said I now have a nice little collection but to tell you honestly the truth is....I still haven't built my workshop...I know mental or what? But that aside plans are in place to build the workshop this year 2021 , aslong as I don't suddenly start buying all the different types of woodsaws that have been made over the past couple of hundred years 😳 😄 😀. Great video and thanks for sharing it made me laugh 💯% 👍🇬🇧
I have a modern #1 that I use over a block plane in certain situations. The #1 is a niche plane, but if you have enough planes, they almost all are. I enjoyed the video, thanks for posting!
Hello, your content is helping me a lot and that is why I want to ask you if you could guide me with a video about smoothing plans on how to correctly adjust the pieces where the blade rests. Thank you
I am 61 and was first introduced to woodwork at 11at school. Today I saw another UA-cam woodworking guy put a Stanley Bailey number 1, 4 and 7 on a set of scales, they weigh 1, 4 and 7 pounds respectively. I never knew that! Don’t have them to check if this holds true for all sizes I have Stanley 4’s, 5’s, and a Record 7.
Great info, I just purchased a vintage #4 on Ebay in great condition. Blade needs minimal work and I can't wait to use it! Might need a #5 one day, need to get my skills up to snuff to enable the benefits of a #5.
I use my 6 for stock removal and flattening as a scrub plane basically. My 8 is the only jointer I use, so my 7 never gets touched. My 5 is used for everything I need done for random projects and getting the board ready for smoothing. That means my 3 is also generally unused except when I need to plane something quick and that might damage the iron. My 4 1/2 from woodriver is my dedicated smoother. I have a 4 that is a secondary spot scrub plane. Basically I am on the cusp of the collector, but I use almost all!! 😂😂
That is similar to the classic swedish set up of wood planes. One scrub plane. One corse smoothing plane, one fine and perhaps one in between and maybe one smaller smothing plane/coffin plane and one to three jointers. One corse. One fine and perhaps one extra long (ca 80 cm) All set to one depth. If you needed to take more less material you just grabbed another plane. That was of course the professional setup. Normal people had a smother and a jointer. Mid size "jack planes existed here but were not as common as in the us and were classed as a small jointer "rubank"
Great video James, but I will pipe up on one thing you said because you repeated it a couple times. The going cost of a used bench plane today is mostly based on the number that were sold originally. The planes that were most wanted, and used, decades ago, were sold the most. Those are the ones that are the most available today. Supply and demand means that those are the least expensive on the second hand market today. The planes that sell for the highest prices today are the ones that few people wanted back in the day. Rarity today makes them cost more, because, as you pointed out, there are nuts, uhm, I mean collectors, who really bid up the prices for them. Collectors don't want them to use, they want them to fill out their set, and to collect dust. In other words, the most expensive ones are the least useful. But the cheapest ones are the most useful, which is great news to us users. My advice to new woodworkers is that #4s, and #5s, are so plentiful and cheap, that there's no reason to not buy one of each. I see good ones selling for $30.00 - $40.00 on a regular basis. A guy should focus on getting all the other basic tools before spending between $100.00 - $200.00 on a #7, or a #8. The price is just high enough to where the ratio of cost to need is not in it's favor. He'll use it at times if he has one, but it's not essential, especially if he has a table saw.
Folk always diss the #1.... It does have a place though. My Mentor had one that he used on every Guitar build. It is a perfect size for Luthier work. It has the weight that palm planes just don't have so it shines on jobs such as planing down sides before fitting sound boards and backs. Also a very handy plane for making braces as well. How I wish I had gotten my sweaty hands on it when he retired.......
Just minutes ago I bought a no.5-1/2 to join my no.4. I've been struggling to flatten and joint my stock, but it's nigh impossible to get any larger planes here. Even 4s and 5s are rare! It's like the metal body never managed to replace wooden planes. I'm excited for it and hope it does me well.
@@WoodByWright Interesting! Yeah, I am. You can get some good things off ebay UK and vintage tool shops, but getting it across the Channel is still rather dear. Power tools are too hectic for me. And probably too loud for my neighbours!
Pretty much all the supply of vintage metal planes in Europe comes from the UK, and prices on eBay are getting stupid. I bought almost all of my planes from Tooltique in England, I’m grateful they’ve kept their prices quite stable over the last few years - and the planes are all expertly restored. In Germany, the prices for used wooden planes are going up too - which is nuts, since there must be millions of them lying around in people’s basements. I’m quite sure I could snag a few freebies just by asking around in the neighbourhood. Even in Britain and the US it took a very long time for metal planes to replace the wooden ones, and when the time came to introduce them to mainland Europe, the war disrupted all the trade.
The more planes I get to try out, the more I realize that all you really need is a jack, jointer, and smoother. It's nice to have a block plane and some specialty planes for very specific projects, but those three will do 95% of the work.
I have a selection, but not like that. 4,5,6,7,block,rebate. Think that's it. I may come back with the rebate number if I remember. Well explained video. Ty
Have you got a T5 which is a 5 but a bedrock design as you need the increased area of the sides for using on a shooting board. It also comes with a third handle that screws into a hole on either side as on a shooting board plane you use it on it's side holding the third handle. Lovely video.
OK, I read somewhere that , that 5,1/4 is really a 5"-" 1/4. Five minus a quarter. Tried to find it today, but couldn't. Great video, "I'm loving it." steve
I do find only using certain planes, my Winchester no 5 1/2 seems to be my go to plane for jointing, I recently noticed that even Lie Nielsen doesn't find much use in the number 1, 2, and all of of the carriage makers planes as they have pulled them off of their web site, which is a shame because I always counted on them to always be available if i were to be so inclined to purchase one.
I've got and love corrugated 3 to 8 myself. I tend to use 3,5, 51/4,and 8 the most. Guess I'm a collector/user. I agree once you get an 8 moving it blasts through anything. But the 7 is easier
@@WoodByWright are they no good? Seems like a better design with respect to mitigation of vibration having a far larger surface for clamping the blade down
#4, chisels, and a pair of winding sticks... or... #3 through #6/7 and a pair of winding sticks... Of course need the chisels too... And of course my kids need to help me, so that's why I need the #2!.... 😁
I have the 4 1/2 which I tend to use as a small panel plane and a 6, which I use as a jointer and panel plane, even though I have a 7 !!! The 7 wears me out quickly as I'm an old fossil.
Can I ask to add to the collection, line up all the various types of one size then explain the variations for us please James . Pretty please😎 As I have passed into the next phase, Collector status.
Hmmm… I bought a No. 5 1/2 thinking that the extra width would make things easier as it covers more surface, but now I’d trade it in for a No. 5 in a heartbeat, which I don’t have (they’re not as common and easy to find in Europe as they are in the US). I prefer narrower irons: narrower iron, less resistance, and it really only takes a few more strokes to get a good finish (pun not intended, but recognised). The 5 1/2 makes a good shooting plane, though. As I often work on smaller pieces, I’d quite like a No. 2 or a No. 3, but I’m not wild about it - the No. 4 really is small enough. Although I would get a No. 1 (and use it) if it was affordable, just because it’s cute. I recently gave in and bought a No. 7. UA-cam woodworkers usually insist that nobody needs a 7, but at some point I noticed that all of them own one, and I bet they all use it when the cameras are off, because it’s a joy. Is it necessary? No, but it gives you more confidence when jointing a larger piece, you don’t have to check all the time if you’re straight - it just finds the high spots by itself. So of course I agree, start with a No. 4 or a No. 5, then identify what else might come in handy. I’m not sure I get the point of a No. 6 or a No. 8, but I can’t really speak to that because I’ve never worked with either. What I’m sure about is that I’d use a No. 5 more often than my 5 1/2.
Thank you for the excellent video and great info! I now have 3 old stanley planes and after watching your video plan on collecting them. Couple questions about them. What is the best way to store the hand plane? Shelf, two pegs supporting the ends, flat or on its side, etc. Also, in restoring them what paint do you use to paint them and what are the standard colors for ones made in the usa or england? Where is the best place to get new wooden handles and front grips? Thanks, appreciate the help. Patrick
There really is no best way to store them. It all depends on the method you have for storing your tools I have a plain till on my wall that I hang them on I like it as it's quick and easy to access them with one hand but other people like to have them in a slight angle and a cabinet or in a box some people swear by keeping them on their sides and most people keep them flat on their soul so it really comes down to what you like. Originally they were not painted they used japanning. It's actually turpentine asphaltum and boiled linseed oil. I have a few videos on applying that if you'd like to see it. once I started to get into colors then they used all kinds of paints and all kinds of colors throughout the years. I generally use a rustal limb spray paint over top of a self etching primer. There are a few places where you can buy totes and knobs however most people just make their own. They're pretty quick and easy to make in a matter of an hour or two. I have a few videos on doing that if you'd like to see details. Feel free to send me an email with questions or pictures if you like specific information on something.
I'm at the stage where I can now afford to buy all the tools I thought needed (wanted) back in the day but will probably now never get to use. Does that make me a collector or a madman? Okay, I'm a madman. The doctors will come, diagnose my condition and take me away. Even stressing that I'm just autistic will not help . Oh, woe is me...!
Where do you plug them in, said the 18 yr old punk gen Z apprentice. So I showed him how to walk 64’s off a teak closing plank, then told him to drop his bags and pick up a broom for the rest off the day.
I have to disagree with being unable to use a #1. I don't have a Stanley #1 but a more modern version from a different company but its the same size. I find it very useful for smaller work
It's OK to be a collector. Really! Stanley made great planes for over 100 years and we don't want that legacy to be forgotten. We have gone back to our roots and want to revive the hand woodworking industry. We know that power tools dominate, but we want to keep hand woodworking alive and we collect so we can restore and never let them be lost to time. I get it. Collect my friend!
Stanley did a lot of thinking. I heard that their big breakthrough was packaging the screws along with their hinges. Wow...not. Who knows? Those days were different. I can see it. But here's what doesn't make too much sense to me. Collectors want the whole set. Okay fine. But for ever collector there are a thousand people that want/need a plane. Give them too many choices and they're very liable to go home and think about it. That's a dead sale. It happens all the time. Don't get the customer thinking about choices. It's the kiss of death that every sales expert will tell you. Stanley didn't care and didn't follow that thinking. Interesting. I don't know what they were thinking with the #1 or anything else. I think they were and are nuts. Today Stanley B&D owns almost all the companies. They must be doing something right.
Not to argue with anybody or to pat myself on the back, but I am totally wowed by a Millers Falls No. 15 I recently bought on Ebay. I didn't need to do that much to it other than clean and adjust it and give the iron a preliminary sharpening and honing. A day or two ago I tried using it for cleaning up the edge of a 3/4" inch thick piece of tulip poplar. I know this is not the right plane for the job, but it performed like a champ. Naturally, I was curious to see what else this big, heavy plane was able to do so I took a scrap of construction spruce/pine/fir and planed the edge grain. Again the plane worked fine, taking smooth cuts with fairly heavy shavings. I'm as curious as a cat, so I decided to see how thin I could make shavings with this big chunk of iron. Would you believe that I was able to make shavings that measured .00035 of an inch thick? They were thinner than the finest tissue paper. I was flabbergasted! If there's a point to this story it's that planes don't have to cost a small fortune to be terrific tools. I paid around $100.00 for this one and have more expensive planes from Veritas and Lie Nielsen that I'm not sure could outperform it.
So true. I've never paid over $45 for any of my planes on the wall with the exception of the veritas custom plane. You don't have to spend a lot for a good plane. Miller falls made some fantastic planes. and there are lots of other companies out there that used to make great things.
There is no best just personal preference, but most prefer a bevel up. Of the normal bench planes most prefer the #5. But you will find people that use anything from a #4-#7. Just personal preference.
Love my #5½. One "gotcha" with the #5½ is that prior to Type 16 it was ⅛" narrower than the #4½ & #6. They did make a #5½H, with a 2⅜" iron, but those are fairly rare.
I have a new-manufacture plane which works well, but has a screw-down "lever" cap. I have a much crappier plane that I don't like. Can I take its lever cap off and use it on the good plane?
It's possible to use it on another plane. But I would have to ask why you would want to? Every plane is a little bit different so the screw would have to be the right size and then the right place but some of them might work with it.
Generally I say don't buy from eBay. The prices are going to be fairly high unless you're willing to do a lot of digging. And the sellers don't always know what problems they have. I would suggest going to handtoolfinder.com there's a list of online sellers there that are trusted. You're not going to find any crazy deals but everything there has a fair price. And if there's problems that let you know.
Congratulations! You really look like a small boy!! Happy!!! 1 question! I haven't found or heard anybody talking about the jappaning in stanley plane! Until what year(or type)they use jappaning and not paint!
I actually just received a new-in-box blue #5 from an uncle (one of mom's brothers) he gave me the plane indicating it was his father's. I can't tell if it was ever used. It's got plastic handles that make me cringe... I'll stick with my type 13 #5C Sweetheart
Who needs that many planes? ;)
Why ME, of course...
people who lend tools, AND can't remember to whom :)
@@madscientist5969 And me, too
that is a really good question!
Says the guy who also has at least one large room full of tools!! Yep, I’m jealous! :-)
I’m afraid I’m a 5 1/2 lover but mine is a spiers of ayre infill plane an absolute joy to use so the first plane I gravitate to every time I’m in the shop
Love your enthusiasm for this subject which has ruled my entire life
Keep up the good work
A thorough and thoughtful video! Enjoyed every second of it.
Thanks man. Maybe some day with the Cs, As and Hs!
@@WoodByWright my first Stanley was a 5c, so that’s all I have, the Cs.
Only the right carpenter can give these values. It is a great pleasure to be able to choose just the right one for a particular job.
This puts you on a higher PLANE. No need to ADJUST the screen, LATERALLY or any other way. My MOUTH was wide open the whole time. You're really SMOOTH. You're definitely not SQUARE!!! Thanks James. And have a blessed Christmas.
LOL love it!
You’re quite the amusing SOLE.
From tote to toe funny.
Hi from the UK you so have answered my Conundrum question thank you sir what a bloody mind field but after watching your video I have found the answer to my question toodaloo old chap
The #5-1/4 was very common in public schools where smaller hands, arms, and bodies were better accommodated by the smaller dimensions of the #5-1/4. They were significantly cheaper than #5s in quantity. It was my brilliant shop teachers go-to plane. Well into my 70s, I love my #5-1/4s (yep, I have 2 of them) as smoothers since it takes smaller bites which helps mitigate my loss of strength. Following that theme, my #3 gets more use these days too. Some days my trusty #6 takes over for my #7, etc.. However the slightly longer #5-1/4 will certainly joint smaller stock. Right back where I started... Lasty I’m a bit ham-fisted and #4s crowd my grip, where the #3 and #5 family don’t. All my remaining #4s, except my Footprint #4, and Veritas #4 bevel-up are shelf warmers. Their totes are roomy.
Right on. There's a reason that Stan Lee referred to it as the junior in the catalog
Thanks for this video. I was totally confused about the types of planes and numbers. Your video has helped me a lot in understanding the different planes. As a beginning woodworker at an older age, I know now what planes I will look for and need.
I started with a crappy 12-204 Stanley(which ive put quite a bit of work into, now its nice!) And a 69½ block. Then i got a no6C type 11... Then a no3 type??. I feel like for my NYC apartment woodworking all i need(lol) now is a no10. Id love to get one of them to clean up my tenon's and laps better. I always love your content, James.
@james wright it looks like you are so excited you are shaking!! especially at the beginning. glad you got it done
Lol yeah I've never really had that study of a hand.
I followed your chanel for quite a while now and remember a few times you spoke about the #1. Congrats for having them all on your bench at last. And thank you for this great overview!
Some day I will have one to go on the wall.
@@WoodByWright and I shall be there to witness!
Good job sir
I've got a no 3
Then my grandfather gave me a no 5 1/2 my best since 1995 I don't need anything else thank you for sharing this information god bless
Your enthusiasm makes me enthused
I agree with your plane choices. I've got a 3, 4, 5 and 7. They cover all the needs i have. Would I like to have the other, of course!
A random garage sale today started my interest and collection. Picked up a #3 a #5 a #7 and a # 20 today for a total of 30 bucks
2:55 I thought you were going to say "The 5 is Alive". I guess that movie Short Circuited my brain.
LOL I hae not seen that one in years!
Great video there I’m lucky enough to have this full set along with all the no 10s as well
subscriber from the Philippines
Merry Christmas
Everyone knows that the Stanley No. 1 is the jack plane for Santa's elves.
I'm pretty sure they use the Stanley 12-101. Aka the pocket plane.
What’s their smoothing plane? A stanley 1 1/4?
Indeed, elf plane
Love my 5.5 plane - it’s the only plane I’ve properly ‘clicked’ with (block plane notwithstanding).
Had the 4 and 5 before it, and could never quite get them to work, never knew why
We used the 5 Jack plane for fitting and hanging doors mainly. The 4 commonly used for smoothing , but I do prefer the 3 for this. Good demo, thanks
Great idea!!!! James..Have a great Christmas...richard, Normandy, France
Thanks I learned alot
Nice explanation , now i know what theyre all for i might use em more.
Was on ebay looking for a christmas prezzie for my mother a couple of hours ago....Now ive got a No.7 on its way...she'll love it.
this was along time in the making! i remember you talking about this like 4 years ago lol, congrats
From one 'Collector' to another. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to the Wood family 😎
Great video!
Thanks for the Video...alway like to learn something Without the sales pitches...stay safe...
My favorite plane is one I don't think any collector is looking for. It's not a Stanley or Bedrock or Veritas or Lie-Neilson. It's a Dunlap No.3 which I don't believe is really in any relation to the Stanley No. 3. I think it was just the third plane they made. It was a line made by two different companies for Sears & Roebuck and my particular one was made in 1939. It was purchased by my great grandfather who passed it to my Pépère who passed it to my Dad who passed it to me. Growing up I remember watching my Pépère do a lot of things with it and my Dad mostly used it as a carpenter's tool to shave stubborn wooden doors and stuck storm windows. When I got it it had lain in a drawer in a workbench in the cellar for years. I had to restore it including replacing the handle and the screw that attached it. It must have been dropped at some point as it was cracked in half the the screw was bent. A week soaking it in coke a cola saw all the grime and most of the rust come off. The japanning was still in perfect condition and all the other parts were good. There was one drip of grey paint on the fore knob which I did not clean off. I remember how that drip got there. My Pépère and Dad were repainting the pipes they used for pipe clamps and a stray drip was lain. It's great for smoothing. It has everything except the frog adjust screw. I don't think they ever implemented it. You can adjust the frog but you have to loosen the two screws that secure it to the bed and slide the frog in it's slots. I don't care how worthless it is. It's my favorite plane.
Hahaha great video, this one slightly hit a nerve!.
A couple of years ago I decided that I would like to learn something and use my hands ... yep woodwork was the one as I've alway's been a keen DIYer so woodwork seemed the next step. Even though I have never done any of this before, but yet suddenly I decided that while I saved to build my own workshop I would take my time and start purchasing things for my as of yet unbuilt shop!.
Over the past two year's I decided that because I'm from the UK and Stanley's a well known company the world through, I thought yep Stanley's handplanes especially when I keep seeing the UA-cam woodworkers had rather nice ways to display their tools not everyone but alot !
So like I said I started buying the Stanley planes and over the past two year's I have managed to buy a good collection of them but unfortunately no number 1 anywhere 😕 😢 😐 😔2 to 8 yep got them! Now the thing is as I said I now have a nice little collection but to tell you honestly the truth is....I still haven't built my workshop...I know mental or what? But that aside plans are in place to build the workshop this year 2021 , aslong as I don't suddenly start buying all the different types of woodsaws that have been made over the past couple of hundred years 😳 😄 😀. Great video and thanks for sharing it made me laugh 💯% 👍🇬🇧
Thanks a lot, James! 😃
Fantastic tips!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I very thought I'd like it but I absolutely love my number 3!! In fact my favorite
Excellent overview, James-the best that I’ve found on the web. Much appreciated!
very interesting and informative. I love Stanley hand planes; I have been collecting them in the past few years. Great job!! thank you
I have a modern #1 that I use over a block plane in certain situations. The #1 is a niche plane, but if you have enough planes, they almost all are. I enjoyed the video, thanks for posting!
Thank You James!!! Great Info!!! Job Well Done!!! 👍😎
Great video and explanation thanks for taking the time to do this.
Hello, your content is helping me a lot and that is why I want to ask you if you could guide me with a video about smoothing plans on how to correctly adjust the pieces where the blade rests. Thank you
There is a shorter one. ua-cam.com/video/vG-DULSw6Zk/v-deo.html
And here is a long format ua-cam.com/video/WMfLtGQKoIg/v-deo.html
@@WoodByWright thank you. ✌️
Planes are awesome. I really only have two. I envision having at least one more
You see... that's how it starts...I now have 13...
I am 61 and was first introduced to woodwork at 11at school. Today I saw another UA-cam woodworking guy put a Stanley Bailey number 1, 4 and 7 on a set of scales, they weigh 1, 4 and 7 pounds respectively. I never knew that! Don’t have them to check if this holds true for all sizes I have Stanley 4’s, 5’s, and a Record 7.
Oddly enough I had to go weigh mine. They are all within 4 oz of their number.
@@WoodByWright my number 4 was a little under too but I believe the older ones were heavier, so maybe that accounts for it.
Thanks for the video! You provided some great information!!
5 1/2 set it up as a big smoother. Use it on table tops and the shooting board.
Great info, I just purchased a vintage #4 on Ebay in great condition. Blade needs minimal work and I can't wait to use it! Might need a #5 one day, need to get my skills up to snuff to enable the benefits of a #5.
I use my 6 for stock removal and flattening as a scrub plane basically. My 8 is the only jointer I use, so my 7 never gets touched. My 5 is used for everything I need done for random projects and getting the board ready for smoothing. That means my 3 is also generally unused except when I need to plane something quick and that might damage the iron. My 4 1/2 from woodriver is my dedicated smoother. I have a 4 that is a secondary spot scrub plane. Basically I am on the cusp of the collector, but I use almost all!! 😂😂
That is similar to the classic swedish set up of wood planes. One scrub plane. One corse smoothing plane, one fine and perhaps one in between and maybe one smaller smothing plane/coffin plane and one to three jointers. One corse. One fine and perhaps one extra long (ca 80 cm)
All set to one depth. If you needed to take more less material you just grabbed another plane.
That was of course the professional setup. Normal people had a smother and a jointer. Mid size "jack planes existed here but were not as common as in the us and were classed as a small jointer "rubank"
The #1 to rule them all... my precious. 😀😀
Great video James👍
Excellent video, thank you very much!
Great video James, but I will pipe up on one thing you said because you repeated it a couple times.
The going cost of a used bench plane today is mostly based on the number that were sold originally. The planes that were most wanted, and used, decades ago, were sold the most. Those are the ones that are the most available today. Supply and demand means that those are the least expensive on the second hand market today. The planes that sell for the highest prices today are the ones that few people wanted back in the day. Rarity today makes them cost more, because, as you pointed out, there are nuts, uhm, I mean collectors, who really bid up the prices for them. Collectors don't want them to use, they want them to fill out their set, and to collect dust.
In other words, the most expensive ones are the least useful. But the cheapest ones are the most useful, which is great news to us users.
My advice to new woodworkers is that #4s, and #5s, are so plentiful and cheap, that there's no reason to not buy one of each. I see good ones selling for $30.00 - $40.00 on a regular basis.
A guy should focus on getting all the other basic tools before spending between $100.00 - $200.00 on a #7, or a #8. The price is just high enough to where the ratio of cost to need is not in it's favor. He'll use it at times if he has one, but it's not essential, especially if he has a table saw.
Great collection. I use a 4 1/2 and a 5. I love your channel.
Folk always diss the #1.... It does have a place though. My Mentor had one that he used on every Guitar build. It is a perfect size for Luthier work. It has the weight that palm planes just don't have so it shines on jobs such as planing down sides before fitting sound boards and backs. Also a very handy plane for making braces as well. How I wish I had gotten my sweaty hands on it when he retired.......
Just minutes ago I bought a no.5-1/2 to join my no.4. I've been struggling to flatten and joint my stock, but it's nigh impossible to get any larger planes here. Even 4s and 5s are rare! It's like the metal body never managed to replace wooden planes. I'm excited for it and hope it does me well.
are you in Europe? over there power tools took hold before metal planes became available.
@@WoodByWright Interesting! Yeah, I am. You can get some good things off ebay UK and vintage tool shops, but getting it across the Channel is still rather dear.
Power tools are too hectic for me. And probably too loud for my neighbours!
Pretty much all the supply of vintage metal planes in Europe comes from the UK, and prices on eBay are getting stupid. I bought almost all of my planes from Tooltique in England, I’m grateful they’ve kept their prices quite stable over the last few years - and the planes are all expertly restored.
In Germany, the prices for used wooden planes are going up too - which is nuts, since there must be millions of them lying around in people’s basements. I’m quite sure I could snag a few freebies just by asking around in the neighbourhood.
Even in Britain and the US it took a very long time for metal planes to replace the wooden ones, and when the time came to introduce them to mainland Europe, the war disrupted all the trade.
The more planes I get to try out, the more I realize that all you really need is a jack, jointer, and smoother. It's nice to have a block plane and some specialty planes for very specific projects, but those three will do 95% of the work.
right on.
They all have their uses but you have to hand it to the electric planer, truly a thing of joy.
I have a selection, but not like that. 4,5,6,7,block,rebate. Think that's it. I may come back with the rebate number if I remember.
Well explained video. Ty
My wifes husband was called Stanley as well. Small world we live in. He didnt like planes, said they were dangerous.
So helpful!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge! Really enjoying your awesome videos!
Have you got a T5 which is a 5 but a bedrock design as you need the increased area of the sides for using on a shooting board. It also comes with a third handle that screws into a hole on either side as on a shooting board plane you use it on it's side holding the third handle. Lovely video.
Plane video today, thank you.
only the best!
OK, I read somewhere that , that 5,1/4
is really a 5"-" 1/4. Five minus a quarter.
Tried to find it today, but couldn't.
Great video, "I'm loving it."
steve
That would be interesting, but I have not seen them cast that way.
Finally, now I know. Thanks.
Hi jim we got 2x stanley no 1 planes for sale here in the uk and a bedrock 602
A collector !! I called it plane addiction , I'm trying not to buy more but really I can't help it 😖 .
If you look up hoarding as a mental condition... tools are one of the commonly-hoarded items.
I do find only using certain planes, my Winchester no 5 1/2 seems to be my go to plane for jointing, I recently noticed that even Lie Nielsen doesn't find much use in the number 1, 2, and all of of the carriage makers planes as they have pulled them off of their web site, which is a shame because I always counted on them to always be available if i were to be so inclined to purchase one.
Great info! I pick up ones that are rusty but still have the original tote and knob. They have to be cheap, too.
OK, nobody needs the full set. But they look so pretty all in a line!
Great informations.
Great info thanks. Constant battle for me to not buy more tools. Helps that I have no extra money lol
Good video
You forgot about the corrugated bottoms.
I have a complete set 1 thru 8 along with the " C's "
Yes there are the Cs the Hs and the As. some day. some day!
I've got and love corrugated 3 to 8 myself. I tend to use 3,5, 51/4,and 8 the most. Guess I'm a collector/user. I agree once you get an 8 moving it blasts through anything. But the 7 is easier
Next series...the 60x Bedrocks...I'd love to snag one of those to restore...but I've already got a handful that need some TLC
Lol I've got rid of every bedrock I purchased. That would be a fun video though.
@@WoodByWright are they no good? Seems like a better design with respect to mitigation of vibration having a far larger surface for clamping the blade down
#4, chisels, and a pair of winding sticks... or... #3 through #6/7 and a pair of winding sticks...
Of course need the chisels too...
And of course my kids need to help me, so that's why I need the #2!.... 😁
Stanley planes are the Pokemon of the tool world
LOL yup!
I have the 4 1/2 which I tend to use as a small panel plane and a 6, which I use as a jointer and panel plane, even though I have a 7 !!! The 7 wears me out quickly as I'm an old fossil.
Can I ask to add to the collection, line up all the various types of one size then explain the variations for us please James . Pretty please😎
As I have passed into the next phase, Collector status.
That would be a fun one.
Hmmm… I bought a No. 5 1/2 thinking that the extra width would make things easier as it covers more surface, but now I’d trade it in for a No. 5 in a heartbeat, which I don’t have (they’re not as common and easy to find in Europe as they are in the US). I prefer narrower irons: narrower iron, less resistance, and it really only takes a few more strokes to get a good finish (pun not intended, but recognised). The 5 1/2 makes a good shooting plane, though.
As I often work on smaller pieces, I’d quite like a No. 2 or a No. 3, but I’m not wild about it - the No. 4 really is small enough. Although I would get a No. 1 (and use it) if it was affordable, just because it’s cute.
I recently gave in and bought a No. 7. UA-cam woodworkers usually insist that nobody needs a 7, but at some point I noticed that all of them own one, and I bet they all use it when the cameras are off, because it’s a joy. Is it necessary? No, but it gives you more confidence when jointing a larger piece, you don’t have to check all the time if you’re straight - it just finds the high spots by itself.
So of course I agree, start with a No. 4 or a No. 5, then identify what else might come in handy. I’m not sure I get the point of a No. 6 or a No. 8, but I can’t really speak to that because I’ve never worked with either. What I’m sure about is that I’d use a No. 5 more often than my 5 1/2.
I don't need a No 1, I want a No 1 for my collection!
Thank you for the excellent video and great info! I now have 3 old stanley planes and after watching your video plan on collecting them. Couple questions about them.
What is the best way to store the hand plane? Shelf, two pegs supporting the ends, flat or on its side, etc.
Also, in restoring them what paint do you use to paint them and what are the standard colors for ones made in the usa or england?
Where is the best place to get new wooden handles and front grips?
Thanks, appreciate the help.
Patrick
There really is no best way to store them. It all depends on the method you have for storing your tools I have a plain till on my wall that I hang them on I like it as it's quick and easy to access them with one hand but other people like to have them in a slight angle and a cabinet or in a box some people swear by keeping them on their sides and most people keep them flat on their soul so it really comes down to what you like. Originally they were not painted they used japanning. It's actually turpentine asphaltum and boiled linseed oil. I have a few videos on applying that if you'd like to see it. once I started to get into colors then they used all kinds of paints and all kinds of colors throughout the years. I generally use a rustal limb spray paint over top of a self etching primer. There are a few places where you can buy totes and knobs however most people just make their own. They're pretty quick and easy to make in a matter of an hour or two. I have a few videos on doing that if you'd like to see details. Feel free to send me an email with questions or pictures if you like specific information on something.
Aren't we fortunate they didn't make left and right handed versions.
Obviously, the only plane that you need is a number one which you can then sell to a collector to get the ones you actually need
I'm at the stage where I can now afford to buy all the tools I thought needed (wanted) back in the day but will probably now never get to use. Does that make me a collector or a madman? Okay, I'm a madman. The doctors will come, diagnose my condition and take me away. Even stressing that I'm just autistic will not help . Oh, woe is me...!
My 4 1/2 is my go to plane, my number 7 has grooves in the bottom.
I love my 5 1/2
Where do you plug them in, said the 18 yr old punk gen Z apprentice. So I showed him how to walk 64’s off a teak closing plank, then told him to drop his bags and pick up a broom for the rest off the day.
Wax on wax off...
Love it!
I have to disagree with being unable to use a #1. I don't have a Stanley #1 but a more modern version from a different company but its the same size. I find it very useful for smaller work
I know some feel that way, but a block plane will do the same thing only it is more comfortable. But not everyone feels that way.
It's OK to be a collector. Really! Stanley made great planes for over 100 years and we don't want that legacy to be forgotten. We have gone back to our roots and want to revive the hand woodworking industry. We know that power tools dominate, but we want to keep hand woodworking alive and we collect so we can restore and never let them be lost to time. I get it. Collect my friend!
Stanley did a lot of thinking. I heard that their big breakthrough was packaging the screws along with their hinges. Wow...not. Who knows? Those days were different. I can see it. But here's what doesn't make too much sense to me. Collectors want the whole set. Okay fine. But for ever collector there are a thousand people that want/need a plane. Give them too many choices and they're very liable to go home and think about it. That's a dead sale. It happens all the time. Don't get the customer thinking about choices. It's the kiss of death that every sales expert will tell you. Stanley didn't care and didn't follow that thinking. Interesting. I don't know what they were thinking with the #1 or anything else. I think they were and are nuts. Today Stanley B&D owns almost all the companies. They must be doing something right.
THE #5 1/4 is called a Jr. Jack as they were made for students and their smaller hands.
Right on. A lot of the old Stanley catalogs actually had a name for all of them.
Not to argue with anybody or to pat myself on the back, but I am totally wowed by a Millers Falls No. 15 I recently bought on Ebay. I didn't need to do that much to it other than clean and adjust it and give the iron a preliminary sharpening and honing. A day or two ago I tried using it for cleaning up the edge of a 3/4" inch thick piece of tulip poplar. I know this is not the right plane for the job, but it performed like a champ. Naturally, I was curious to see what else this big, heavy plane was able to do so I took a scrap of construction spruce/pine/fir and planed the edge grain. Again the plane worked fine, taking smooth cuts with fairly heavy shavings. I'm as curious as a cat, so I decided to see how thin I could make shavings with this big chunk of iron. Would you believe that I was able to make shavings that measured .00035 of an inch thick? They were thinner than the finest tissue paper. I was flabbergasted! If there's a point to this story it's that planes don't have to cost a small fortune to be terrific tools. I paid around $100.00 for this one and have more expensive planes from Veritas and Lie Nielsen that I'm not sure could outperform it.
So true. I've never paid over $45 for any of my planes on the wall with the exception of the veritas custom plane. You don't have to spend a lot for a good plane. Miller falls made some fantastic planes. and there are lots of other companies out there that used to make great things.
I have a #5 I found all dirty and rusty. I restored it to a serviceable condition
The 5-1/2 Stanley Bailey I have is about15 inches long. I am guessing it is longer than the 5-1/2 you presented.
which one is best when using a shooting board?
There is no best just personal preference, but most prefer a bevel up. Of the normal bench planes most prefer the #5. But you will find people that use anything from a #4-#7. Just personal preference.
8:20 That is me.
Block, #4, and a #7.
I did not know there was a 5 1/4
Personally I’d be tempted to set it up as an aggressive scrub plane.
it is right about he same size as the scrub plane!
Back in the seventies a friend had a number 1. He wasn't a carpenter, didn't collect them, almost gave it to me... But didn't.
Oh the opportunities.
I was wondering about a Stanley A 5 plane, good or not, is it refinish worthy.
Sure. Only difference is it is aluminum. Slot of people like it as it is lighter.
Love my #5½. One "gotcha" with the #5½ is that prior to Type 16 it was ⅛" narrower than the #4½ & #6. They did make a #5½H, with a 2⅜" iron, but those are fairly rare.
I have a new-manufacture plane which works well, but has a screw-down "lever" cap. I have a much crappier plane that I don't like. Can I take its lever cap off and use it on the good plane?
It's possible to use it on another plane. But I would have to ask why you would want to? Every plane is a little bit different so the screw would have to be the right size and then the right place but some of them might work with it.
@@WoodByWright The one I *want* to use has an actual *lever* rather than a screw.
Any advice on buying a used plane from Ebay?
Generally I say don't buy from eBay. The prices are going to be fairly high unless you're willing to do a lot of digging. And the sellers don't always know what problems they have. I would suggest going to handtoolfinder.com there's a list of online sellers there that are trusted. You're not going to find any crazy deals but everything there has a fair price. And if there's problems that let you know.
Congratulations! You really look like a small boy!! Happy!!! 1 question! I haven't found or heard anybody talking about the jappaning in stanley plane! Until what year(or type)they use jappaning and not paint!
they Japanned tell they swiched over to the Blue handyman planes. if they are black they are probably japanned.
@@WoodByWright word. Good to know. About to have green hammerite on a couple of my rusty boys, though.
I actually just received a new-in-box blue #5 from an uncle (one of mom's brothers) he gave me the plane indicating it was his father's. I can't tell if it was ever used. It's got plastic handles that make me cringe... I'll stick with my type 13 #5C Sweetheart
Omg this video makes me realize that i am a colector