Another good use case for these is as lighting for wardrobes and cupboards. My eyesight isnt great so i have lights in my closet that come on when i open the door, controlled via a little plunger switch of the kind used to operate dome lights in cars. Others use an IR sensor.
Cool video. I actually did this with an old LED bulb that stopped working. They used 7 volt LEDs so I isolated 2 on each side. I made a 12 volt lamp that worked pretty well. :-)
I'm going to modify a TV that I previously modded into a light because the power supply is junk on it and it keeps turning off. I bought some 12v LED strip lighting off Amazon and I'll be replacing the CCFL lamps with the strips.
I got a few of these laying around and my idea was to make a light box, I was planning on using two glass shelves and use the diffuser from an old lcd tv screen and place it between two panes glass. Not sure if it will work but I don't see why not as it should be just like a glass tv screen.
Interesting. I would like to try that. If i got some LED strips. Oh, the series thing: Christmas miniature incandescent bulbs are in series, but if one goes out, the rest stay on. They use a shunt? I suppose some LED strips have those?
This may be a dumb question but have a set of 4x2 strips (4 strips of 15 built in separable 7 and 8 LED pieces. Ive played with some others from a different tv just to learn and experiment so hopefully i could make a nice light for my assembly table in the shop. Theyre the Samsung LM41-00001(Q&Z) respectively. Dont fully understand the way the tv drove them as 2 strips were in series and 2 were independent. I do understand that these are 3v forward current but while I have a decent understanding of electricity its less electronics and more utilty and I am still not sure how to size a resistor to keep from letting the smoke out. On the previous ones i experimented with i could make them blaze using a couple 9v batteries but it was often followed by a diode with a black 8 ball of death in the middle... So simply put, i understand the voltage and but how do I know the current to push that at to get light without the smoke... the power supply board says 235v at 423mA and if i understand correctly the actual voltage will be closer to the 180v 60×3v theoretical voltage but how is the amperage worked, and i read that the LEDs are steady voltage so the current controls brightness or magic smoke release. How do I figure that, 423mA for all 4 strips or as a sum of the 3 circuits? It also says Duty 100%,300hz Dimmable if that helps. Appreciate any help in where im going wrong and how to go from that to a simple light of 4 15 LED strips in parallel. I have the original power board but would prefer to dig into my power supply/transformer bin and figure what works best for getting the voltage which isnt my issue as much as not burning them out with too much current.
I've always been curious, when the backlights have many pairs of lines going to the strips, 2 3 or 4 pairs of wires. Do they run the strips out of phase from one another, possibly to reduce current that the driver needs to supply? As it would only need to supply a fraction at any moment.
In my humble opinion my friend.. they use "series" instead of "parallel" for exactly the same reason they also do it with lithium batteries.. "Programmed obsolescence"......... In the case of LEDs they know that sooner or later.. one will heat up.. produce more resistance.. heat up more.. and the all thing fail... and you need a new TV.... or a new bulb (That's why LED bulb are also in series) .......... in parallel every LED have his own SMD resistor and that prevent the LED for over heating or over current..... if the led shorted the resistor burns and that's it..... all the rest keeps running...... that was the original design.. you can still get it.. in 5V stripes work like that........... in lithium you have the same thing... eventually one cell will gas up (because the series will still charge her up at a level she can not reach anymore).... the CID will break (or you will need the fire department)... and the all battery is done... even when all the rest of the pack is still fine.. you will need another.......... the worst is that we use to made lamps with a little bit of metal (tungsten wire and a metal chunk for the thread) + a pinch of the most abundant material in the world sand (for glass)...... today we threw down mountains.. looking for rare materials like gallium.. with machine that suck barrels of 300 liters of fuel per hour..... and just for ONE of the materials of those white LED's.....
Because they drive the shit out of them. Put your car in first floor it till the rev limiter kicks in and drive it all day and see how long it can sustain that before something breaks.
In my humble opinion my friend.. they use "series" instead of "parallel" for exactly the same reason they also do it with lithium batteries.. "Programmed obsolescence"...._..... In the case of LEDs they know that sooner or later.. one will heat up.. produce more resistance.. heat up more.. and the all thing fail... and you need a new TV.... or a new bulb (That's why LED bulb are also in series) .......... in parallel every LED have his own SMD resistor and that prevent the LED for over heating or over current..... if the led shorted the resistor burns and that's it..... all the rest keeps running...... that was the original design.. you can still get it.. in 5V stripes work like that........... in lithium you have the same thing... eventually one cell will gas up (because the series will still charge her up at a level she can not reach anymore).... the CID will break (or you will need the fire department)... and the all battery is done... even when all the rest of the pack is still fine.. you will need another...._...... the worst is that we use to made lamps with a little bit of metal (tungsten wire and a metal chunk for the thread) + a pinch of the most abundant material in the world sand (for glass)...... today we threw down mountains.. looking for rare materials like gallium.. with machine that suck barrels of 300 liters of fuel per hour..... and just for ONE of the materials of those white LED's..._..
Great point about rationale for why they are wired in series. Also, it's great to reuse electronics rather than discard!
Another good use case for these is as lighting for wardrobes and cupboards. My eyesight isnt great so i have lights in my closet that come on when i open the door, controlled via a little plunger switch of the kind used to operate dome lights in cars. Others use an IR sensor.
I see the spam bots are out in force. The ban list is growing
there just getting out of hand unfortunately
@12voltvids i know right
Those bots are out of control
@@huhnx5 let's just say my ban list is out of control. When i drop a new vid i spend the first hour or so adding to the ban list.
@@12voltvids 😬🙄😬🙄
Cool video. I actually did this with an old LED bulb that stopped working. They used 7 volt LEDs so I isolated 2 on each side. I made a 12 volt lamp that worked pretty well. :-)
I'm going to modify a TV that I previously modded into a light because the power supply is junk on it and it keeps turning off. I bought some 12v LED strip lighting off Amazon and I'll be replacing the CCFL lamps with the strips.
Good luck
I did that too
I got a few of these laying around and my idea was to make a light box, I was planning on using two glass shelves and use the diffuser from an old lcd tv screen and place it between two panes glass. Not sure if it will work but I don't see why not as it should be just like a glass tv screen.
I have some of these light strips. I am going to try something like this.
Interesting. I would like to try that. If i got some LED strips.
Oh, the series thing: Christmas miniature incandescent bulbs are in series, but if one goes out, the rest stay on. They use a shunt? I suppose some LED strips have those?
This may be a dumb question but have a set of 4x2 strips (4 strips of 15 built in separable 7 and 8 LED pieces. Ive played with some others from a different tv just to learn and experiment so hopefully i could make a nice light for my assembly table in the shop. Theyre the Samsung LM41-00001(Q&Z) respectively. Dont fully understand the way the tv drove them as 2 strips were in series and 2 were independent. I do understand that these are 3v forward current but while I have a decent understanding of electricity its less electronics and more utilty and I am still not sure how to size a resistor to keep from letting the smoke out. On the previous ones i experimented with i could make them blaze using a couple 9v batteries but it was often followed by a diode with a black 8 ball of death in the middle...
So simply put, i understand the voltage and but how do I know the current to push that at to get light without the smoke... the power supply board says 235v at 423mA and if i understand correctly the actual voltage will be closer to the 180v 60×3v theoretical voltage but how is the amperage worked, and i read that the LEDs are steady voltage so the current controls brightness or magic smoke release. How do I figure that, 423mA for all 4 strips or as a sum of the 3 circuits? It also says Duty 100%,300hz Dimmable if that helps.
Appreciate any help in where im going wrong and how to go from that to a simple light of 4 15 LED strips in parallel. I have the original power board but would prefer to dig into my power supply/transformer bin and figure what works best for getting the voltage which isnt my issue as much as not burning them out with too much current.
It's a good idea to reuse again
I've always been curious, when the backlights have many pairs of lines going to the strips, 2 3 or 4 pairs of wires. Do they run the strips out of phase from one another, possibly to reduce current that the driver needs to supply? As it would only need to supply a fraction at any moment.
Do you mean as in they could be multiplexed (one strip at a time)?
@@Enigma758 yes
In my humble opinion my friend.. they use "series" instead of "parallel" for exactly the same reason they also do it with lithium batteries.. "Programmed obsolescence"......... In the case of LEDs they know that sooner or later.. one will heat up.. produce more resistance.. heat up more.. and the all thing fail... and you need a new TV.... or a new bulb (That's why LED bulb are also in series) .......... in parallel every LED have his own SMD resistor and that prevent the LED for over heating or over current..... if the led shorted the resistor burns and that's it..... all the rest keeps running...... that was the original design.. you can still get it.. in 5V stripes work like that........... in lithium you have the same thing... eventually one cell will gas up (because the series will still charge her up at a level she can not reach anymore).... the CID will break (or you will need the fire department)... and the all battery is done... even when all the rest of the pack is still fine.. you will need another.......... the worst is that we use to made lamps with a little bit of metal (tungsten wire and a metal chunk for the thread) + a pinch of the most abundant material in the world sand (for glass)...... today we threw down mountains.. looking for rare materials like gallium.. with machine that suck barrels of 300 liters of fuel per hour..... and just for ONE of the materials of those white LED's.....
LEDs are usually very reliable. Why do the ones in TVs go so often? Note: This is almost a rhetorical question
Because they drive the shit out of them. Put your car in first floor it till the rev limiter kicks in and drive it all day and see how long it can sustain that before something breaks.
@@12voltvids ...so the backlight settings should be set to what - for longevity?
@@lox_5017 75% max i would guess.
In my humble opinion my friend.. they use "series" instead of "parallel" for exactly the same reason they also do it with lithium batteries.. "Programmed obsolescence"...._..... In the case of LEDs they know that sooner or later.. one will heat up.. produce more resistance.. heat up more.. and the all thing fail... and you need a new TV.... or a new bulb (That's why LED bulb are also in series) .......... in parallel every LED have his own SMD resistor and that prevent the LED for over heating or over current..... if the led shorted the resistor burns and that's it..... all the rest keeps running...... that was the original design.. you can still get it.. in 5V stripes work like that........... in lithium you have the same thing... eventually one cell will gas up (because the series will still charge her up at a level she can not reach anymore).... the CID will break (or you will need the fire department)... and the all battery is done... even when all the rest of the pack is still fine.. you will need another...._...... the worst is that we use to made lamps with a little bit of metal (tungsten wire and a metal chunk for the thread) + a pinch of the most abundant material in the world sand (for glass)...... today we threw down mountains.. looking for rare materials like gallium.. with machine that suck barrels of 300 liters of fuel per hour..... and just for ONE of the materials of those white LED's..._..
do you think a 42 volt 2 amp power supply could run typical led backlights on a 50 inch tv. the lights are 7 x 6v, 4 strips