He's using metric! Love it. That shows he's a teacher that knows what's good. Will you make a soldering tutorial video also explaining every material separately and why/when to use what
Awesome soldering tips. I had always joined the half connectors and thought I it was brittle. Sacrificing one led to get a full pad is a great idea. That and doing power injection on the next LED. No more mondo solder bulge.
Applying some additional rosin/flux to the pads will help loads with getting a good flow and adhesion .. you can get a pen style applicator to minimize the mess
Tip for ip65, use clear shrink tube so you don't have to worry as much about the size of tube used (i.e. if an led is partially covered, light won't be blocked). You didn't seem to have that issue. As for IP67, I love it, as I just mount it directly outside without worries (almost 2 years now in Canada, so -40c to +40c). If using 5v, I agree, don't get IP67. If 12v (what I use), you can inject power at each end of 5m no problem. If you need to shorten a section, it is easy to create a water proof wire joint at the end (just create one same as the factory using similar methods you showed in the video). Another tip, but if using hot glue, not really needed. There is shrink tube with glue already inside for making waterproof connections even easier.
Rob, nice tips! I use 18AWG wire for power Injection, and solder the wire to the back and protect with clear heat shrink, when using aluminum channels. Then I drill a hole in the channel where the wires connect and run it outside of the channel.
If you don't want to sacrifice an LED, you could solder a wire between half pads to create a strong joint. It actually may be stronger than just using solder. Just take a small (22 gauge) piece of hookup wire and solder it to each of the pads on one end then (tinning the other pads first) butt the two strips together and then solder the wires to the pads on the other strip.
Im sorry but more often than not u have a left over piece of wire that has about 1/4 of the solderpads still on em. If you want to make sure your strip doesnt randomly die, just cut off an led and solder it propperly. its a quallity thing
THANK YOU for this, I have been wrecking my brain on how to connect a pair of microscopic 2020 LED strips (300 per meter, super awesome!), and when I saw you just lay one on top of the other it was like "of course it's that straight forward" I would have done something silly and complicated were it not for your video.. Thank you for demystifying LEDs!!!
Great video. I need to finish soldering my joints. Been too lazy to actually get it done. Suggestion: I would have showed how to use a multimeter to check continuity between the strips to ensure power/signal will pass through properly and none of the connections are touching one that it shouldn't. Better to find out before connecting power.
Wish I saw this video 1 week ago, after 2 yrs and some bedroom remodeling I finally got around to installing the LED lights on my daughter's bedroom (a saint for waiting so long) originally planned on solderless connectors but quickly learned they don't fit in the channels, so I decided to solder the joints. Nerve wrecking as I never done this and my connections were not pretty at all. They work now but your tips would have been great in advance. Onto my next LED project... Again thanks for tips.
Another absolutely masterful video tutorial. I needed to join 2 addressable strips, and this was right on point. As always, thank you so much. BTY, I'm making the bedroom Sunrise effect project!
I will have to try this out. Had to solder 2 LEDs on the end of a strip the other day and spent 20 min before I realized the alum channel was acting like a big heat sink sucking away the heat from the pads :) Once I popped up the end of the string it was easy peasy. Nothing like being on a ladder trying to solder with an alum channel cooling the work down
I use marine heat shrink. It has a hot melt glue lining the inside of tubing. Obviously not as thick as applying hot glue separately, but works great and one less step. Could also use conformal coating instead of glue, but have to wait for it to dry and good idea to use 2-3 coats. Your way is an easy, effective method.
Followed this advice and it worked well enough. Only issue I had was I had previously put up all my lights with the connectors and I needed to just fill in a pixel, but it was too long of a gap to just solder a pixel in. I ended up using a section of the 3 wire pieces.
Thanks for this! I'm working on some LED projects mostly inspired by you and your channel. Would be awesome if you could cover 6 pin (RGBTW / RGBCT / etc) in another video in the future. Thanks again man love this channel!
Another great video Rob. Thanks! Could you provide a few more pictures of your cable management inside the aluminum channel? Specifically around all of the soldering you did in the video. I’m on the Facebook group if it’s easier to share pictures there. Thanks!
2 questions, where do you put the injection wires in the channel? And do you have a good source on a decent length of whatever gauge you use for injection?
Can you desolder the factory solder joints to make a corner connection for example? You desoldered the attached wires but I'm talking about where you showed the example of the factory solder joints in the beginning.
Thanks a lot! Is there a video as to how to run power injection wire along led strips inside channels and how to inject at multiple points for upto 15, 5 meter 12 volts strips?
Love your videos=- very informative. Question on LED Strip lighting. I'm installing in kitchen but have a couple of sections where I want to run and join the LED Strip lighting but don't want the LED's to show in a particular section. In other words I want a gap and want it to look classy. I'm lighting up a long eating bar and have a section where I don't want to see LED's going up a wall to the underside of a kitchen cabinet. I saw someone use black tape but that will be an eye soar.
Hi Rob - Thanks for the detailed video for soldering the LED Strips. I was wondering What was your soldering temperature when you desolder the original LED cables. I am not able to desolder them even at 350c
I think you are thinking of flux. You can add extra flux if you want, but the solder itself has a core of flux that provides all that you need. Any time you are soldering and you see the puff of smoke come off of the iron that's the flux burning and doing its job.
Awesome helpful video. What do you recommend for DIYers who are setting up LED Strips as main lighting source in ceiling with profiles built into the entire ceilings in long extended strips on entire ceiling space covering about 1000 square feet? Main question here is power source? Controller Source? And how to control individually or together as one? If I install a LED Strip all over my ceiling on the entire ceiling on every room and hallways how/what is the best way to setup from LED product, power product, and controller product.
Great Video....one question though. I am using LED light strips for a shadow box and had to buy more than I am using. I don't want to waste the left over strip, so what do I need to add to the left over LED strip (s) in order to connect it to a power supply ? Thank you in advance.
For IP67/IP68 silicon tubing LED strips just use regular clear color (transparent) silicon. Yes it takes 10 - 20 minutest to harden, but it works and also does not allow leaks. Even something more - it is more flexible than the hot glue. :)
@@TheHookUp Sorry to hear that .. My Christmas tree (16 pieces) and star (10 piecess) are made of pieces of IP67 strip. At each 2 ends of each picece and all of the pieces joints I've put sanitary clear color silicon. It already resisted 5 months of heavy rain, very heavy snow, winds with 60 up to 100km/h and temperatures varying from +20 donw to -16 degrees celsius and it is mounted outside, I mean directly under the sky.
@@TheHookUp Ah, so It wansn't so bad sealing. :) 1 year is not so bad if we aren't talking for permanently mounted lights. My tree and star are detachable and can be dissasembled till the last piece of strip, so I haven't made it to last that long and each year, before I mount them, I check them to see if any piece needs additional isolation, soo .. Yeah, you're right - this is not suitable for permanent instalation. But this is something I knew, and I'm actually surprised it lasted so long, because by datasheet these strips are not meant to be used in such harsh weather conditions like ours. Sometimes it gets cold as -20 degrees celsius here (and even much lower as -27). So for 5 months I've lost only one pixel and it is not even dead, it just lights only in red. :) Anyway .. I know this isn't the right strip for this purpose, not because of the water, but because it is very flimsy, jelly and shaky in a strong wind. It isn't very easy to make it stay steel. :) This year I'll have to switch to another type of strip or I'll have to use alumininium channels, which will solve all the problems. :)
Awesome video and that looks like a “home run” power injection - correct? Do you have any video that shows how to do the wiring to make parallel power injections in the aluminum channel, so a person could hit 4 injection points with the same power run?
I would like to see how to make parallel power injections into an LED strip also. Can't find anything on UA-cam. And I can't believe they don't make power injection splicing clips. Seems like a no brainer but what do I know.
Great! I didn't know the power injection trick ! Please could you share here the link where find further info? I mean: the voltage rating for sure will remain the same of the main source, but what about the current need? The additional power source must be exactly the same of the main one? Or less current is needed? Many thanks !!
Just one question: Why only power inject the positive rail for traditional strips? The ground lead on the strip would have the same voltage drop on both types, right?
From your video, I think I understand how to connect "home-run wire" power injection, but I'm still confused about running a parallel wire for power injection. Is there one positive wire from the power supply to a solder seal butt connection to two wires (one the injects to the strip and another that keep running additional distance to the next injection point)? Does there need to be a parallel ground wire with similar connections or just the positive wire?
In the video you show how to solder wires to inject power while maintaining strip continuity. However, are these wires left inside strip? If so, how do you prevent them from getting in front of the LED and blocking light in some spots? If not, how do they enter and exit the strips while keeping rain out? Also, are the wires attached to the house or to the outside of the channel? Would love to see a video on this.
In an industrial/manufacturing environment that's needing a lighting solution for not only equipment changeover and pharmaceutical cleaning but also inspection for cleanliness prior to reassembly, what is/are the best LED strips to approach when it comes to safely lighting long and short locations that typically are shadowed yet need to get sprayed down with some slightly boosted pressurized hot city water pressure? In such an environment, how would wiring best be ran and protected?
I have a question! I’m trying to build a 5v system and I’m confused at power injection. You say tap in at the beginning and end of every strip for running the parallel wires inside channel. But if I’m joining 88 ft of LED strips for the perimeter of the front of my house do I just do the injection every 5meters? Or should I do at the end of one strip then literally jump a couple LEDs then tap in for the “beginning” of the next strip? Then another 5 meters? Repeat? I think it’s the first. Every 5 meters.
thanks, great video. two questions, if i want to connect around 80 mts. (16 strips of 5 mts. each) can i do it like this and wont be a voltage drop? if so, i will just need to calculate the power supply nedded, am i right?
i got these 12 v light from btf and the output on the controller is also 12v i plugged it all up and it was good tried to use a connector but it didnt go so well had to keep pressing down on it to work and when it did the end lights was playing up so im thinking to solder it now but im trying to figure out if i shoud be powering it differently
Hello Sir. Amazing content. I always watch your content. I am facing a problem and i think you might be able to help. I have a 12v UV LED Strip. The brightness is not what i expected but to my surprise suddenly the Led went to the brightness i needed and when i switched it off and then on agaim it went back to being dim again. I tried with different power supplies but it is the same. What can i do to make them to the brightness level i need? Watching it back in India. Thank you again.
After cutting my strip i had a lot more leftover. How do i use to the other half in entire new area of the house? Do i need an adapter? I have the govee wifi lights.
This is super helpful! I was all ready to start installing my permanent LEDs along my roofline, but now I’m wondering a few thing. If you solder all these together, how do you install them? All at once?seems like you’d have to have lots of help. Also, how do you do the 90 degree corners? I have IP65. Also how do you get the wires into the channel? The end pieces hole seems too small, if I cut, and resolder , then I guess I widen the hole and just try to seal it up with silicone or something? Any help appreciated! Thanks
I would like to see how to make parallel power injections into an LED strip also. Can't find anything on UA-cam. And I can't believe they don't make power injection splicing clips. Seems like a no brainer but what do I know.
Please help ! I have a 5 pin (12mm wide ) aquara led strip . I am doing it for stairs but electicians did 2 wires out some steps ?!? Any idea how i can connects 2 power sources to 1 led strip . Links would be ideal i have been searching for days
Can you split the data line on individually addressable LEDs so that two sets of strips run the same pattern at the same time? Using Rob's concrete countertop as an example, could one data line control both LED strips?
hi i have the same strip as yours and the same black connector but i am trying to connect the t shape and L shape white connectors to the strip but the grb are in a different order at the top they say bgr instead of grb on the strip and on the other end of the connector it says rgb which does not match up to the led strip do i have to match up the letters the same if so what can i do.
I am trying to do a 70ft run indoors, is this possible? I can not find any information and have emailed companies selling these products and get no response.
would you like to know 12V individual control ws2812 led strip ? RGB ,RGBW , one end connect power transformer , no brightness difference at whole 5m led strip or 10m led strip
Hi, how reliable are the LED strips, or pixel strings, the consumer LED strings fail all to often for no apparent reason. Then we have squirrels that will chew a LED bulb out of a string, (furry Tailed Tree Rats)! I have lost many, many, strings of LED lights to these critters. These strings have been placed in trees and shrubs!
Great video as usual. One question. If your joining where the 2 lights connect and don’t have room for the connector couldn’t you just cut that off on each side and solder those wires together?
@@TheHookUp it doesn’t say anything about low voltage wiring but I was more concerned with a potential fire hazard and what kind of insulated wiring I can use for an extra measure of safety
Sorry if the question sounds too dumb to you.. Is there anyway I can turn off every 2nd diode? I am using it to light a switch panel and I would need the LEDs to be only 1 inch a part. I can't seem to find any strips with 1 inch a part LEDs
no.... some rgb strips can control ever 5cm - 10 cm separately... there is some new led strips that do what you want.... ua-cam.com/video/DCsjd79aUlc/v-deo.html
Hi Rob. I ordered 5x 5m SK6812s which should be in my grubby paws any day now. Since ordering from China is something that doesn’t happen everyday, I added those snap connectors into the mix just in case. Considering that I plan to lay the strips into aluminum channels, would those snap connectors fit in those channels together with power injection wiring? Or should I rather just bite the bullet and solder strips together as you had demonstrated in this video.
I would urge the opposite opinion. Ip65 is to be avoided and ip67 is always used. I have had more issues with that silly coating on the leds than silicone tubing. The thing is hot glue is not the binder to use. You need to use silicone on silicone and it will make a perfect waterproof bond. To attach hvb tape. Is to apply silicone o the back and roll your tape on since hvb will not adhere to silicone tube on its own.
Hi Rob. Got my SK6812s today but noticed two extra wires (white and red) in addition to the 3 wires (white, red and green). Could these be power injection wires?? Maybe there is no need for me to run power injection wires as the strip has made provision for this? I would attach a photo, but unable to.
@@TheHookUp Yes, but they will be installed under my thatched entertainment area along the rim so won’t be directly exposed to the weather. It is going to be awesome!
You can check out that other video that I linked for the specifics, but basically I'm using a combination of home runs using 18awg stranded and parallel runs using thin solid core wire.
Trying to figure this out and I can't find any references other than this video, I'm trying to inject power to my 5-pin RGB-W, 24V, so I run positive lead from my power supply to +Pin, but no negative?? "while a traditional RGB or RGBW strip typically only needs additional power on the positive voltage connection since the ground is shared between each of the 3 or 4 other traces, which is how those strips change their colors."
He's using metric! Love it.
That shows he's a teacher that knows what's good.
Will you make a soldering tutorial video also explaining every material separately and why/when to use what
Was just going to add the same comment. So nice to see the superior metric system being used.
CVS
The USA moves towards the metric system, inch by inch.
Awesome soldering tips. I had always joined the half connectors and thought I it was brittle. Sacrificing one led to get a full pad is a great idea. That and doing power injection on the next LED. No more mondo solder bulge.
Applying some additional rosin/flux to the pads will help loads with getting a good flow and adhesion .. you can get a pen style applicator to minimize the mess
That's what I said. You're smart, too :-)
@@iambyrdman can you share a link to the applicator pen you guys are talking about? Thanks!
Tip for ip65, use clear shrink tube so you don't have to worry as much about the size of tube used (i.e. if an led is partially covered, light won't be blocked). You didn't seem to have that issue.
As for IP67, I love it, as I just mount it directly outside without worries (almost 2 years now in Canada, so -40c to +40c). If using 5v, I agree, don't get IP67. If 12v (what I use), you can inject power at each end of 5m no problem. If you need to shorten a section, it is easy to create a water proof wire joint at the end (just create one same as the factory using similar methods you showed in the video).
Another tip, but if using hot glue, not really needed. There is shrink tube with glue already inside for making waterproof connections even easier.
Dude your channel it’s like a box of endless wisdom… 🙏 Thank you!
Rob, nice tips! I use 18AWG wire for power Injection, and solder the wire to the back and protect with clear heat shrink, when using aluminum channels. Then I drill a hole in the channel where the wires connect and run it outside of the channel.
If you don't want to sacrifice an LED, you could solder a wire between half pads to create a strong joint. It actually may be stronger than just using solder. Just take a small (22 gauge) piece of hookup wire and solder it to each of the pads on one end then (tinning the other pads first) butt the two strips together and then solder the wires to the pads on the other strip.
Im sorry but more often than not u have a left over piece of wire that has about 1/4 of the solderpads still on em. If you want to make sure your strip doesnt randomly die, just cut off an led and solder it propperly. its a quallity thing
THANK YOU for this, I have been wrecking my brain on how to connect a pair of microscopic 2020 LED strips (300 per meter, super awesome!), and when I saw you just lay one on top of the other it was like "of course it's that straight forward" I would have done something silly and complicated were it not for your video.. Thank you for demystifying LEDs!!!
Great video. I need to finish soldering my joints. Been too lazy to actually get it done.
Suggestion: I would have showed how to use a multimeter to check continuity between the strips to ensure power/signal will pass through properly and none of the connections are touching one that it shouldn't. Better to find out before connecting power.
Wish I saw this video 1 week ago, after 2 yrs and some bedroom remodeling I finally got around to installing the LED lights on my daughter's bedroom (a saint for waiting so long) originally planned on solderless connectors but quickly learned they don't fit in the channels, so I decided to solder the joints. Nerve wrecking as I never done this and my connections were not pretty at all. They work now but your tips would have been great in advance. Onto my next LED project... Again thanks for tips.
Just bought several addressable strips and was already starting to poke around to figure out how to do this! Thanks!
Another absolutely masterful video tutorial. I needed to join 2 addressable strips, and this was right on point. As always, thank you so much. BTY, I'm making the bedroom Sunrise effect project!
Awesome, that’s definitely still in my top 5 favorite projects.
I will have to try this out. Had to solder 2 LEDs on the end of a strip the other day and spent 20 min before I realized the alum channel was acting like a big heat sink sucking away the heat from the pads :) Once I popped up the end of the string it was easy peasy. Nothing like being on a ladder trying to solder with an alum channel cooling the work down
Clean, neat, and simple. Excellent video!
I use marine heat shrink. It has a hot melt glue lining the inside of tubing. Obviously not as thick as applying hot glue separately, but works great and one less step. Could also use conformal coating instead of glue, but have to wait for it to dry and good idea to use 2-3 coats. Your way is an easy, effective method.
I got a battery powered hot glue gun and I'm never going back to wired, it makes the hot glue step super easy.
@@TheHookUp what one do you have?
Followed this advice and it worked well enough. Only issue I had was I had previously put up all my lights with the connectors and I needed to just fill in a pixel, but it was too long of a gap to just solder a pixel in. I ended up using a section of the 3 wire pieces.
Every video adds a bit more confidence in my DIY
That's what I like to hear!
Thanks for this! I'm working on some LED projects mostly inspired by you and your channel. Would be awesome if you could cover 6 pin (RGBTW / RGBCT / etc) in another video in the future. Thanks again man love this channel!
Really nice presentation of tips on how to deal with the common tasks associated with creating custom strip lengths. Just what I was looking for!
Another great video Rob. Thanks! Could you provide a few more pictures of your cable management inside the aluminum channel? Specifically around all of the soldering you did in the video. I’m on the Facebook group if it’s easier to share pictures there. Thanks!
Finally someone who knows how to solder on UA-cam. :)
You mean, besides Louis, Eli, and Jessica?
@@alexp9303 Don't forget Dave and Bruce
Big Clive does it one handed!
I learned a lot from you before making my DIY Ambilight, thank you!!
Great video! So clear and concise.
2 questions, where do you put the injection wires in the channel? And do you have a good source on a decent length of whatever gauge you use for injection?
Been waiting for this video since I started playing around with LEDs
Were you successful at making your power injections? I'd love to ask how you did it
Can you desolder the factory solder joints to make a corner connection for example? You desoldered the attached wires but I'm talking about where you showed the example of the factory solder joints in the beginning.
Just in time for my whole home led project. Thanks for making this great video!
Best video i've seen so far for doing this particular task. Thank you :)
Thanks for the tutorial. Any advice/tips for joining right angle corner sections (of IP65 SK6812 60LEDs/m) ?
Thanks a lot! Is there a video as to how to run power injection wire along led strips inside channels and how to inject at multiple points for upto 15, 5 meter 12 volts strips?
Excellent info. Thanks for your great content!
I love my pinecil soldering iron. USB-C powered open source iron for$20-30.
any tips on using IP68 strips? I would like to lay some LEDstrips in profiles on wood-chips in my garden
Love your videos=- very informative. Question on LED Strip lighting. I'm installing in kitchen but have a couple of sections where I want to run and join the LED Strip lighting but don't want the LED's to show in a particular section. In other words I want a gap and want it to look classy. I'm lighting up a long eating bar and have a section where I don't want to see LED's going up a wall to the underside of a kitchen cabinet.
I saw someone use black tape but that will be an eye soar.
Hi Rob - Thanks for the detailed video for soldering the LED Strips. I was wondering What was your soldering temperature when you desolder the original LED cables. I am not able to desolder them even at 350c
2:56 You should be adding flex here befor Soldar.... Because flex makes Solder go where it's suppose to.
Thanks for all your precious time!!!
I think you are thinking of flux. You can add extra flux if you want, but the solder itself has a core of flux that provides all that you need. Any time you are soldering and you see the puff of smoke come off of the iron that's the flux burning and doing its job.
@@TheHookUp extra helps my flow. More important for smaller stuff but you are 100% about Flux core. Thanks again! Love you long time
Awesome helpful video. What do you recommend for DIYers who are setting up LED Strips as main lighting source in ceiling with profiles built into the entire ceilings in long extended strips on entire ceiling space covering about 1000 square feet? Main question here is power source? Controller Source? And how to control individually or together as one? If I install a LED Strip all over my ceiling on the entire ceiling on every room and hallways how/what is the best way to setup from LED product, power product, and controller product.
Great Video....one question though. I am using LED light strips for a shadow box and had to buy more than I am using. I don't want to waste the left over strip, so what do I need to add to the left over LED strip (s) in order to connect it to a power supply ? Thank you in advance.
For IP67/IP68 silicon tubing LED strips just use regular clear color (transparent) silicon. Yes it takes 10 - 20 minutest to harden, but it works and also does not allow leaks. Even something more - it is more flexible than the hot glue. :)
I did that in my landscape LED lighting, it unfortunately leaked.
@@TheHookUp Sorry to hear that .. My Christmas tree (16 pieces) and star (10 piecess) are made of pieces of IP67 strip. At each 2 ends of each picece and all of the pieces joints I've put sanitary clear color silicon. It already resisted 5 months of heavy rain, very heavy snow, winds with 60 up to 100km/h and temperatures varying from +20 donw to -16 degrees celsius and it is mounted outside, I mean directly under the sky.
Mine lasted a little over a year before it started giving me problems.
@@TheHookUp Ah, so It wansn't so bad sealing. :) 1 year is not so bad if we aren't talking for permanently mounted lights. My tree and star are detachable and can be dissasembled till the last piece of strip, so I haven't made it to last that long and each year, before I mount them, I check them to see if any piece needs additional isolation, soo .. Yeah, you're right - this is not suitable for permanent instalation. But this is something I knew, and I'm actually surprised it lasted so long, because by datasheet these strips are not meant to be used in such harsh weather conditions like ours. Sometimes it gets cold as -20 degrees celsius here (and even much lower as -27). So for 5 months I've lost only one pixel and it is not even dead, it just lights only in red. :) Anyway .. I know this isn't the right strip for this purpose, not because of the water, but because it is very flimsy, jelly and shaky in a strong wind. It isn't very easy to make it stay steel. :) This year I'll have to switch to another type of strip or I'll have to use alumininium channels, which will solve all the problems. :)
Excellent. On point and informative 👌
I am really appreciated for your video. It's very helpful
Thanks for the awesome content you've taught me a lot. Do you have a video about setting up a junction box for LED setup? Thanks!
Any tips for corners?
Awesome video and that looks like a “home run” power injection - correct?
Do you have any video that shows how to do the wiring to make parallel power injections in the aluminum channel, so a person could hit 4 injection points with the same power run?
I would like to see how to make parallel power injections into an LED strip also. Can't find anything on UA-cam. And I can't believe they don't make power injection splicing clips. Seems like a no brainer but what do I know.
Great! I didn't know the power injection trick !
Please could you share here the link where find further info? I mean: the voltage rating for sure will remain the same of the main source, but what about the current need? The additional power source must be exactly the same of the main one? Or less current is needed? Many thanks !!
Just one question: Why only power inject the positive rail for traditional strips? The ground lead on the strip would have the same voltage drop on both types, right?
In a 5 wire (RGBW) strip, the + voltage is 1/5 the size of the -, which is split between RGB and W.
OK, makes sense. Thanks!
Can you please leave a link for the stranded copper wire you use for the power injection. Thanks!!
From your video, I think I understand how to connect "home-run wire" power injection, but I'm still confused about running a parallel wire for power injection. Is there one positive wire from the power supply to a solder seal butt connection to two wires (one the injects to the strip and another that keep running additional distance to the next injection point)? Does there need to be a parallel ground wire with similar connections or just the positive wire?
Great tips, thanks Rob. Doing this up a ladder making repairs is the real challenge. :)
In the video you show how to solder wires to inject power while maintaining strip continuity. However, are these wires left inside strip? If so, how do you prevent them from getting in front of the LED and blocking light in some spots? If not, how do they enter and exit the strips while keeping rain out? Also, are the wires attached to the house or to the outside of the channel? Would love to see a video on this.
I usually just add a dab of hot glue every 24" to keep the injection wires in place.
In an industrial/manufacturing environment that's needing a lighting solution for not only equipment changeover and pharmaceutical cleaning but also inspection for cleanliness prior to reassembly, what is/are the best LED strips to approach when it comes to safely lighting long and short locations that typically are shadowed yet need to get sprayed down with some slightly boosted pressurized hot city water pressure? In such an environment, how would wiring best be ran and protected?
I have a question! I’m trying to build a 5v system and I’m confused at power injection. You say tap in at the beginning and end of every strip for running the parallel wires inside channel. But if I’m joining 88 ft of LED strips for the perimeter of the front of my house do I just do the injection every 5meters? Or should I do at the end of one strip then literally jump a couple LEDs then tap in for the “beginning” of the next strip? Then another 5 meters? Repeat? I think it’s the first. Every 5 meters.
Great vid thank you!
We need a good quality source of reliable, 90+ CRI RGBW/WW, high quality addressable strips!
Hi, great video but I have a question that what is a good temperature setting for the solder gun? I always seem to set too high and melt too fast.
thanks, great video. two questions, if i want to connect around 80 mts. (16 strips of 5 mts. each) can i do it like this and wont be a voltage drop? if so, i will just need to calculate the power supply nedded, am i right?
awesome tips. I'm going to use it for training my guys
i got these 12 v light from btf and the output on the controller is also 12v i plugged it all up and it was good tried to use a connector but it didnt go so well had to keep pressing down on it to work and when it did the end lights was playing up so im thinking to solder it now but im trying to figure out if i shoud be powering it differently
So what would be the longest string of led you would use with this method
Hello Sir. Amazing content. I always watch your content. I am facing a problem and i think you might be able to help. I have a 12v UV LED Strip. The brightness is not what i expected but to my surprise suddenly the Led went to the brightness i needed and when i switched it off and then on agaim it went back to being dim again. I tried with different power supplies but it is the same. What can i do to make them to the brightness level i need? Watching it back in India. Thank you again.
Hello, at 4:00 you taking about you power injection leads, what leads did you use?
After cutting my strip i had a lot more leftover. How do i use to the other half in entire new area of the house? Do i need an adapter? I have the govee wifi lights.
I just have one question is it too late to put deffussers over your LED light strips after you already put your strips up
Any good way to join aluminum strip channels? I have some to try for my underglow, but they're 1m long- not good enough for the sides.
This is super helpful! I was all ready to start installing my permanent LEDs along my roofline, but now I’m wondering a few thing. If you solder all these together, how do you install them? All at once?seems like you’d have to have lots of help. Also, how do you do the 90 degree corners? I have IP65. Also how do you get the wires into the channel? The end pieces hole seems too small, if I cut, and resolder , then I guess I widen the hole and just try to seal it up with silicone or something? Any help appreciated! Thanks
How did you get on with your 90 degree corners?
Hi, btw I would love to see how you tap your led into your 22G wire? Did you use any T connector?
I would like to see how to make parallel power injections into an LED strip also. Can't find anything on UA-cam. And I can't believe they don't make power injection splicing clips. Seems like a no brainer but what do I know.
6:12 I suppose that technique is good enough but I push the hot glue in/around the joints and seal the back of the strip as well.
3:00 You should definitely have some solder flux and the joint will end up much better.
Please help !
I have a 5 pin (12mm wide ) aquara led strip .
I am doing it for stairs but electicians did 2 wires out some steps ?!?
Any idea how i can connects 2 power sources to 1 led strip . Links would be ideal i have been searching for days
I'd like to see this done on a philips hue 6 pin set up!
Do you need any flux when using the solder for this method?
Oh nice, metric! Thanks for that :)
Can you split the data line on individually addressable LEDs so that two sets of strips run the same pattern at the same time? Using Rob's concrete countertop as an example, could one data line control both LED strips?
Yes, I run four strips off of the same data line from an ESP8266.
hi i have the same strip as yours and the same black connector but i am trying to connect the t shape and L shape white connectors to the strip but the grb are in a different order at the top they say bgr instead of grb on the strip and on the other end of the connector it says rgb which does not match up to the led strip do i have to match up the letters the same if so what can i do.
How do you join the strips at the peaks of your roof so they look seamless and the connection is waterproof?
please tell me what do you mean with "ADDITIONAL POWER" ???? .... does the wire come from the basic power supply ???
I am trying to do a 70ft run indoors, is this possible? I can not find any information and have emailed companies selling these products and get no response.
would you like to know 12V individual control ws2812 led strip ? RGB ,RGBW , one end connect power transformer , no brightness difference at whole 5m led strip or 10m led strip
So how do you get a ip67 25m strip working without injections?
Hi, how reliable are the LED strips, or pixel strings, the consumer LED strings fail all to often for no apparent reason. Then we have squirrels that will chew a LED bulb out of a string, (furry Tailed Tree Rats)! I have lost many, many, strings of LED lights to these critters. These strings have been placed in trees and shrubs!
Just ordered some solder from your Amazon link. Go enjoy a free extra piece of cheese on your burger with that fat commission check!
Hi, i'd like to know which strip you would recommend me to buy between IP30 or IP65 if I want to use L or T connectors, please?
Always get the least waterproofing you can get away with. If water won’t be an issue get ip30.
Great video as usual. One question. If your joining where the 2 lights connect and don’t have room for the connector couldn’t you just cut that off on each side and solder those wires together?
I assume you mean the wires on the end? The best option is to just desolder those wires and solder the pads directly together.
@@TheHookUp Yes that's what I meant. Okay thanks I will take that approach
Is it safe to run led wires behind sheet rock? Looking to do an install in bathroom
You'll need to check with your local low voltage electrical code, but whether it is up to code will depend on the type of wire.
@@TheHookUp it doesn’t say anything about low voltage wiring but I was more concerned with a potential fire hazard and what kind of insulated wiring I can use for an extra measure of safety
Exactly how ive been doing it
Thanks for the video! It's a big facepalm moment, it seems so obvious, but never thought about it. 👍👍👍
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!!!
Sorry if the question sounds too dumb to you.. Is there anyway I can turn off every 2nd diode? I am using it to light a switch panel and I would need the LEDs to be only 1 inch a part. I can't seem to find any strips with 1 inch a part LEDs
no.... some rgb strips can control ever 5cm - 10 cm separately... there is some new led strips that do what you want.... ua-cam.com/video/DCsjd79aUlc/v-deo.html
That's a lovely concrete and resin table, did you make it?
Thanks! Yes, I made it: ua-cam.com/video/l8dRm8PApLE/v-deo.html
Every video you make has hidden things
What am I missing here? The only other option is watching my solder for 20 minutes... no one wants that.
Hi Rob. I ordered 5x 5m SK6812s which should be in my grubby paws any day now. Since ordering from China is something that doesn’t happen everyday, I added those snap connectors into the mix just in case. Considering that I plan to lay the strips into aluminum channels, would those snap connectors fit in those channels together with power injection wiring? Or should I rather just bite the bullet and solder strips together as you had demonstrated in this video.
In my experience the snap connectors do not fit well in the channels. You can buy deeper channels, but they are more expensive.
how do i use Arduino to program argb lights also how can i program a touchscreen interface to control them
I would urge the opposite opinion. Ip65 is to be avoided and ip67 is always used. I have had more issues with that silly coating on the leds than silicone tubing. The thing is hot glue is not the binder to use.
You need to use silicone on silicone and it will make a perfect waterproof bond.
To attach hvb tape. Is to apply silicone o the back and roll your tape on since hvb will not adhere to silicone tube on its own.
Hi Rob. Got my SK6812s today but noticed two extra wires (white and red) in addition to the 3 wires (white, red and green). Could these be power injection wires?? Maybe there is no need for me to run power injection wires as the strip has made provision for this? I would attach a photo, but unable to.
Yep, those are injection wires. Are you installing them outside?
@@TheHookUp Yes, but they will be installed under my thatched entertainment area along the rim so won’t be directly exposed to the weather. It is going to be awesome!
for power injections do you need fuses or any type of resistor or you just soldering it on the strip?
Fuses are always a good idea, no resistor needed.
@@TheHookUp oh okey but can I do this without the fuses cause I don't know what type of fuse should I use to each power injection
@@Ydooo It will work without a fuse, fuses are just safety devices.
@@TheHookUp thanks a lot !
Thanks for the video! What gauge wire are you using for the power injection?
The pigtails in the video are 22. I often use 18awg home runs and 24awg parallel runs.
@@TheHookUp Thanks!
@@TheHookUp LOL. All video instructions in metric, but give wire sizing in crazy AWG.
What are you using to up the power to the led?
You can check out that other video that I linked for the specifics, but basically I'm using a combination of home runs using 18awg stranded and parallel runs using thin solid core wire.
Thanks Rob. 👍
Trying to figure this out and I can't find any references other than this video, I'm trying to inject power to my 5-pin RGB-W, 24V, so I run positive lead from my power supply to +Pin, but no negative?? "while a traditional RGB or RGBW strip typically only needs additional power on the positive voltage connection since the ground is shared between each of the 3 or 4 other traces, which is how those strips change their colors."
Correct, just + for traditional strips.
Just make sure your data line is all going the same way as well.
Nice vid. Thanks!