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No-Mar Tire Changer & The Mystery of the Inner Tube Locknut
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- How to change a dirt bike tire using the No-Mar Tire Changer machine. A close up detailed step by step view of my process . Including a look at various inner tube locknut strategies I've come across in the world of motorcycle maintenance .
To see a great video on how to change a tire the traditional way and "Never Struggle Again " watch this video
ua-cam.com/video/yxZl9pQOf3A/v-deo.html
O.K people listen up. If your tube comes with 2 nuts (e.g Vee Rubber tubes) the bottom nut is to hold the valve to the actual tube, do not unscrew or remove this nut, it stays under the rim. If your tube only comes with 1 nut (e.g Michelin tubes) then your valve if fixed to the tube in the manufacturing process so does not need a nut under the rim. The external nut does NOT screw down to the rim! That would put unwanted pressure pulling up on the valve stem it needs to be able to move if your tyre slips. The purpose of the valve stem nut on any tube is to assist in installation and inflation to stops the valve from pushing back into the hole on the rim and it also used to help straighten the valve after having the tire slip, Jay Clark has a good video on this. Once it is mounted and aired up you have a few options, take the nut off completely, screw it up to the cap so you have it ready to use when you need although it is a pain to keep screwing it down every time you check pressures. I was a my local Husky dealer yesterday and noticed that they do not come with the valve nut anymore and I'm going to assume the same with KTM. Or you can just keep doing whatever you want, screw the nut down to the rim and be happy.
This has to be one of the best comments I've ever recieved .You have explained the locknut question perfectly. Your last sentence is great because you and I know there will be those out there who ,no matter what ,will still do what they are going to do regardless of being show a better path .Thank you very much for taking the time to weigh in so succinctly with really solid information .Cheers to you good sir
Excellent advice! Just one question though. If your tyre slips, isn't likely that it'll just tear the stem out of the tube anyway? If it's slipped because your pressure was too low then I'd think it's likely to keep slipping unnoticed until the tube tears and you finally feel you have a flat?
That is the whole idea behind not tightening the nut down to the rim, it gives you a visual clue with just a quick glance that it has slipped.
@@kingkire1556 I've had sooo many rear tire flats from the wheel spinning inside the tire that I have ordered a new rim, cos there's something wrong with the original. Even at road pressures and 2 rim locks, it still does it. I've had 6 punctures in 6 rides with the thing, I'm deeply sick of it. Next time I'll try this 'don't tighten the valve' thing.
@@bigglyguy8429 Something is definately not right with that. Hope that new rim sorts it out.
great vid! some more tips and reasons why... for each stem nut option shown, you're leaving gaps for sand to get inside the tire which can cause a flat. even with the nut tight on the rim, sand can get in because the rim face is not square. as for the first nut on the tube stem, i leave that one there to protect the tube from the hole in the rim.
once the tire swap is complete, the trick is to put a bead of silicon around the base of the stem to seal it at the rim. let the silicon get up the stem threads about 3/8". now spin the single stem nut down to 1/4" away from the rim, or just past where it gets in the way of the stem cap. so like 1mm lower than the cap. the silicon should be mushing a bit from the nut and be sealing well at the rim. this not only keeps sand out, it allows the stem to tell you if the tire is slipping on the rim, because the stem can still move with the tube. the nut will stay-put due to the sealant. the rim lock nut also needs silicon under it to keep out mud etc. it's the same reason we duct tape the back side of the spokes, which also keeps broken spoke ends from moving.
it's smart to rotate the tire on the rim just before seating the bead to set the tube stem at a 25 degree angle. it will straighten up after a few rides as the tire breaks in properly, but it's fine if it stays at that angle. will give it room to slip without ripping the stem from the tube if air pressure is later set lower for a traction situation. obviously the stem lean direction is determined by how the forward drive on the rim leaves the tire behind ever so slightly. if you later see the stem angle change, you know you need to deal with a low pressure issue or a broken rim lock.
putting the talcum powder inside the tire and rotating the warm dry tire will evenly coat the inside. then dump out the powder so it won't ball up later. do the same to the tube before putting it in, as he showed. this way there is no loose powder. it also helps keep the bead clean and ready for installation (no powder sticking to the bead lube).
WD40 is good for rubber, and can also have a helpful vulcanizing effect (you can actually glue grips to handlebars using only WD40, if its only a light dusting). thus i think it's better to use WD40 as a bead lube than tire grease or tire lube. it evaporates into the rubber and will not cause rim slip like rubber grease can. it still works great to make installation easy. spray it on the bead right before you lay the tire on the rim, then just before you seat the beads with air. i've done all this for decades and never have tube or tire issues... just wear out the knobbies.
Hey Jon .Thanks very much for the excellent information with detailed explanations of why .I think I need to make another video using all of the suggestions you made. I will most certainly mention and credit you for sharing .This has to be one of the best comments I've ever recieved .Thanks for taking the time to send it along .Cheers to you my friend
@@TRyanLearnBikes hey thanks man! you're welcome, but no need to credit me in your vids though, just say it was from a comment. later!
I don’t know about all that other stuff but I agree with the WD40 and using silicone rubber parts. If there’s a way the tube can be allowed to float in the tire it won’t put any pressure on the stem - no better way than to keep it dry and maybe powdered.
I didn't read all of the comments below but I know they say what I'm about to say. I'm on UA-cam viewing vids about the No Mar machine I'm about to use, and I found this video. Absolutely the best edited video I've seen so far, and I hit the subscribe button at lightning speed.
Hey @tricepilot ,thank you very much for taking the time to leave me such a great comment .I truly appreciate you doing that and also subscribing .You may not realize how much of a positive impact it makes ,but you made my day .Cheers to you good sir . Oh ...and good luck with your tire changing job .I'm sure you'll find it a breeze using the No-Mar changer .It's a fantastic tool .
Great video. Quick. Concise. Love to see it!
Thanks very much, Rhett. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment. Cheers 🍻
Great Video. I like the nut backed up to the cap so that I can see if the tire has spun on the wheel. i can then address it before any damage. With the nut run tight, and the valve stem held rigid, the first indication of a spinning or spun tire is a torn tube.
Thanks very much. I agree with your strategy. It makes the most sense and it must be right because many pro riders seem to do it that way too .Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Cheers my friend 🍺
Tell me about it.I'm fixing my son's right now Is where the valva stem ripped off
love how you make your vids man and this one is just as good as any you have done....slick editing and sound effects to go with it.You got my thumbs man and keep safe
Hey R.K. Thanks very much ,as you know the instructional type vids are a bit challenging to try and keep interesting throughout so the extra sound effects and fast pace are certainly helpful. I appreciate you noticing and commenting. Cheers to you my friend. 🍻
@@TRyanLearnBikes Your welcome and heads up given it's winter here now I don't put much out on youtube over this time but come back to it in the warmer months.
@@rolandkeith5322 Ahh yes ..I can relate to that ..but you're a very creative guy so I'm guessing while your output may be less frequent it will always be interesting and extremely well crafted .Either way I always look forward to your posts .Cheers 🍻
What a great video! Well edited! Thank you!
Hey Ken thanks very much for your great comment. Cheers to you good sir 🍻
You always make the best videos!
Oh jeez ,thats some high praise right there .Thanks very much .I wish it was true. Thanks very much for the kind words .you made my day .Cheers Gloria
The box that Michelin inner tubes are packaged in, clearly show both nuts for the valve stem on the outside with the domed washer on the inside..
Ok . Thanks for the info .
Fantastic video!
Oh Jeez man I had no idea you guys watched this one .Wow ..thanks very much for the great comment .I truly appreciate it. You made my day.
Side note I really like your tire changer design..its fantastic and I always recommend it when I can .Thanks again. Cheers 🍻
Great vid and many thanx, too, to some of the commetators to explain what they do why. so everyone is invided to find out the best solution. I like a lot the hints of yukon ("to put a bead of silicon around the base of the stem") and kingkire ("The external nut does NOT screw down to the rim! That would put unwanted pressure pulling up on the valve stem it needs to be able to move if your tyre slips"). So many helpful ideas. I wish everybody a Happy New Year 2024!!! KR Henry
Hi Henry ,Thank you very much .I agree ,it's great to hear many different perspectives on how people deal with similar issues .We are all in this together and can learn so much from each other .Thanks for taking the time to leave such a graet comment .Cheers and have a a great new year.
I changed a lot of tires in the backyard on a milk crate, (and bloodied a lot of knuckles), when I was a racing MX in my younger days. I don't know why, but I always pinched a tube when using tire irons, but never did using big flat head screw drivers. As far as marring the rim? I am glad the rims were not color anodized back then. :)
Bloody knuckles and flathead srewdrivers kind of go together .I can certainly relate to your words my friend .Back in the day it was all about getting the job done ASAP and getting back on the track .A few scrapes along the way were just part of the process..Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment .Cheers
Thanks, great video!
Thank you very much .Glad you enjoyed it .Cheers
I have a tip for you that I do when putting my front wheel on my 2019 YZ250 2-stroke.I don't know why, but there are no spacers for up-side-down forks that will keep the legs parallel as you tighten the front axle. I have seen 2 kinds of vids that claim to "align the forks". 1) Wheel of the ground, one pinch clamp loose, spin the wheel and hit the front brake. "See the fork end move on the axle? It is centered. Tighten the clamp." Yea, mine was still about .025" out of parallel. 2). "With one axle pinch clamp loose, grab the front brake and pump the forks up and down". I did not measure how far that was off. For that YZ250, I simply measured center to center on a triple clamp, subtracted one diameter of the lower slider tubes, and made a simple gauge that will get the fork legs +/- .001" in parallel, (for best sliding action. I actually had to go up one spring stiffness after freeing up the forks).
All I did was use a 1" diameter aluminum rod stock, faced off each end on my lathe to 5.661" long, (the measured distance between the legs with my bike). With the wheel off the ground, and one axle pinch clamp loose, (not the brake side), I put that rod between the legs as low as possible, (through my front brake disk), and tape the fork over with a light rubber mallet until the rod is tight between the legs, (and straight). Tighten the last axle clamp, and carefully wiggle the rod out of there. Now I know it is right for the forks to work as freely as possible, probably with less enteral bushing wear.
Hey @EarthSurferUSA That is some great info right there .Thanks very much .I appreciate you taking the time to forward the details .It will certainly help me and maybe a few others who find this comment. Cheers
this is a great tip thanks!
Great vid and comments. Tip: save the stems from old tubes and use them for the plastic fuel can vent hack.
Hey Thomas thank you very much for the kind comment good sir .And also for the great tip regarding the fuel can vent hack .That is magic ,I'd never seen that before .I will most certainly be installing them on all my fuel cans .Thanks again for enlightening me .Cheers 👍
I can tell your proud of that little edit you did there in the beginning lol. good video
Thanks for noticing and commenting on the edit .It was a fun one to try and figure out how to do .Cheers.🍻
Dig the channel. Short n sweet no BS
Dig the comment 👌 also short and sweet .Cheers 🍻
Earned my sub ....thank you for another great vid..
Hi Martin ,Thank you very much for taking the time to comment so kindly and also subbing .I genuinely appreciate it .Cheers to you good sir .Also I really like your channel icon .Did you design that yourself or is it professionally done? Or I guess it could be both if you are a graphic designer by trade . Just curious .
@@TRyanLearnBikes Hi and thanks for taking the time to reply back, I think I just found it on line somewhere. It’s nothing special but reminded me of a few trips and photos of me on my bike , hence the name lol . Keep up the good work , Martin from Cornwall in the UK 👍
@MartinHubbard1 Thats good stuff. It's a great logo and a cool back story .Thanks for your support. Cheers, my friend 🍻
I rode a Yamaha TT600N for a few years, I left the tube lock nut and cap off the outside of the wheel. Even with 2 new rim locks I had the tire twist on the rim under hard use. Before leaving the nut and cap off I had the valve stem rip out of the tube a few times. With no nut or cap the stem would pull into the wheel. Remove one side of the tire and pull the valve stem back into place. Save me a few flats.
Hey @curthenry9398 Thank you very much for this great bit of intel .Your experience backs up the claims that I eventually came to in a second tire changing video I made .This one right here
ua-cam.com/video/yxZl9pQOf3A/v-deo.html.
From now on I will be referencing your comment to all of the people who challenge the idea .I'm interested to hear your thoughts on wether to put a locknut against the beveled washer on the inside of the rim or not .This is another divisive point for many .Thanks again for taking the time to weigh in I truly appreciate it .Cheers to you good sir .
@@TRyanLearnBikes I left the inside nut in place. I might be wrong, but I believe it helps hold the stem in the tube.
@@curthenry9398 I agree 100% .Thanks for your feedback. Cheers 🍻
I have got to figure out how to edit better lol Great JOB Love this one
Well thanks Kev it was a fun one to put together..Cheers my friend 🍻
I actually found a pdf from continental moto showing how it's supposed to be installed. From the pdf:
"Before mounting the tube, place the washer on the valve stem.
After mounting lock both nuts together with a space of about 5mm (0.2") above the rim. This type of mounting ensures, that on the one hand the valve isheld in position for inflation, but on the other hand it does not tear off thetube in case the tire and tube rotate slightly in the rim."
But I guess rim locks help a lot in keeping the tire and tube from rotating on the rim so probably doesn't really matter too much of you're using rim locks.
A couple things I do differently, I put the powder in the tire and also put just enough air in the tube before spooning on the tire so as to not get a pinch flat as easily.
Hey Moto Trini ,Thanks very much for responding to the debate with such outstanding information. You explained it perfectly, and as a direct recommendation from a prominent manufacturer the intel is definitely right .Thanks for taking the time to comment and help all concerned .Cheers 🍻
@@TRyanLearnBikes cheers 🍻, I just picked up the no mar tire changer and came across your video 👍🏽
@@mototrini Thats great I'm sure you and your friends will benefit in a big way from having such a great tool in your workshop .Big thumbs up and Cheers to you my friend 👍 And thanks again for watching and commenting
Can you please post a link to the PDF if there's a pic? Trying to understand if the order is: tube with a washer on the valve stem, then insert that through the rim and lock the 2 nuts together 5mm away from the rim? I replaced a tire last year before storing my bike, and this year I took it out and the tube was flat. When I replaced the tube, the valve stem had completely torn off the tube. The order was tube with valve stem, through the rim, and 1 lock nut tightened down to the rim. I'm guessing I probably tightened the nut too much and pulled the stem out of the tube, or at least stressed it.
@R C sorry can't find the link but you got the gist of it, stem with washer through rim, then tighten both nuts with 5mm gap to rim.
Here in the UK and many years ago I remember a bike owned by my friend failed it's annual roadworthiness test (known as an MOT over here), because the valve outer lock nut was missing..... I don't know if things have changed or not.
Of note, my 2020 RE Trials 500 came with valve outer lock nuts nipped down to the rim. . It makes sense though to leave some slack in the system though. Dunno what the answer is!
Hey Keith ,wow your MOT standards are pretty tight .The locknut debate seems to be quite divisivne .At this point after much discussion I think the argument that says one locknut on the inside against the beveled washer and the locknut on the outside of the rim backed up to the cap ,is the way to go . It makes sense to me as it allows an early warning sign of tire spin .If you see the least bit of angular change from 90 degrees you can address the issue before the valve gets ripped out of the tube .Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a great comment .Cheers
The spin dry takes practice so it does not run away.
I use a tube cap with a rubber motorcycle valve stem grommet (what ever colour I can get to match the bike) which fits around the valve stem and up against the rim to help keep dirt out but lets the valve stem / tube move.
Thats a great idea ,I will give that a try on one of my bikes .Thanks for the great info .Cheers
It makes sense my Honda XR650R came out factory with those rubber grommets.
Good stuff! Anyone recommend a tire balancer?
I have one purchased from Fortnine made by Bike Master . It works well for me and is fairly cheap . I would certainly recommend it .
I have one of the no mar tire changer, I generally use it for street motorcycles, now I need to use it with a dual sport bike that has spokes, Why you don't use the mount bar to get the tire install?
@csiautodetail Yes they are a fantastic set up .I didn't use the mount bar because that tire in the video is not very wide and the spools on the mount bar take up a lot of room so I have found it much easier to just lever the tire into place especially as the rim is held so tightly in place .It's just my preference.
mine has a metal washer and 2 nuts.. so i make sure 1 nut under rim isnt too tight to the tube.. then outside rim nut holds to it tight! then i used glow in dark valve stem cap ! i used to use automatic pressure read caps.. but they slow leak cause always keeps stem depressed.. so i threw away the 32 green..20lbs yellow.. empty red ..valve stem auto read caps.
Interesting strategy. Good info on the automatic pressure reading caps .I was unaware they were out there .Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Cheers 🍻
Awesome video You would think that a lockout inside the rim would create a localized pressure point, kyle
Hey Kyle, thanks man .I thought that about a locknut on the inside too , but apparently that's what the good guys do so I figure they must do it for a good reason .
Thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment. Cheers 🍻
Underrated channel! So glad I found this.
Thank you very much Bryan I appreciate the kind comment, cheers 🍻
Also thank you for subscribing .Cheers 🍻
Just mu opinion and what I did/do.
Its very different depending upon use, when I did Trials riding in the 70s on an OSSA MAR 6 psi was common so you had two rim locks and never tighted the valve nut. After each meet there was alot of tube creep.
In my Scramble ( motoX) competion days on a 250 CZ like now we only had the one rim lock but rarely suffered from any creep.... higher tyre pressure.
But hard ruts could cause slight creep so left 1/8th loose.
All my tubed road bikes higher tyre pressure with no chance of creep unless poorly maintained psi .
So valve nut to the rim but just finger tight.
Thats what I did .
Currently got a Royal Enfield Classic 350 so tubed wheels and valve nuts finger tight.
Thats some great intel right there .It sounds to me like you have the experience to back up your claims .Thank you very much for your insight and detailed explanation. I truly appreciate you taking the time to watch and leave such a great comment .Cheers to you good sir !
what do you use in the spray bottle
You can use a little bit of dish soap and water ...or windex , but in the video I used watered down tire lube .Hope that helps ?
why didn't you use the mount bar to install the tire? I don't know this machine, so just a question
You make a valid point .Dependind on the width and stiffness of a tire getting the head of the mounting bar in place is a big factor .Slimmer dirt bike tires are typically easier to fit using tire irons .In the case of wider more flexible tires like you find on most sport bikes , the mounting bar is the way to go and is very easy to just slip onto the rim with almost no effort at all .Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment .Cheers
@@TRyanLearnBikes thanks for the reply
So what do you do with the nuts?
My personal preference is to leave one nut on the inside against the beveled washer and the second nut on the outside run up against the cap, not tight against the outside of the rim.This allows some movement of the tube without ripping the valve stem out of the tube. It also can be used as an indicator of slip if you notice the angle of the valve stem is ever not perpendicular to the rim surface .
I pulled off the factory tire from two vintage Hondas, both locknuts were on the outside. I believe the dimpled washer is supposed to be pulled into the rim. My friend who is a moto mechanic swears by one nut on either side of the rim. Why? he says its never let him down. 🤷🤷 I have had either setup on many bikes, I dont think I would run with no locknut though.
Well those are some very interesting reasons you bring to light .The deeper we go down this rabbit hole the more variations and reasons behind them , surface .Your dimpled washer idea made sense to me too but I was talked out of it by one the bike mechanics I deal with .It seems everyone has an opinion of what's best .As it stands I'm more undecided than ever now .But I agree with you that I definitely wouldn't run without any locknuts .Thanks for taking the time to comment with your experiences I genuinely appreciate it. We're all in this together and can always learn from each other. Cheers my friend 🍺
One lock nut on the outside and cap.
Because that's what I was told when I first learned. Lol
Ok sounds good .I appreciate your input.
Cheers 🍻
I ride old motorcycles. The lock nut was always tight. Maybe with high output hp engines it might spin the tube . Thanks .
Thanks for taking the time to comment .I understand where you're coming from , my older bikes were set up the same way as yours too .But tube slip can occur on newer model dirt bikes because the tire pressure could be set quite low so there is a greater risk of movement thats why many pro riders keep the locknut away from the rim .So I guess the right answer is ....it depends on what and where you're riding . Thanks again Cheers
Its one nut against the washer that goes on the inner tube and one on the outside of the rim. Be sure to use baby powder on the inside of the tyre and the tube, this will keep the friction away and tube from spinning insidr.
Are suggesting the outside nut is tight against the rim ,essentially locking the stem in place ?
@@TRyanLearnBikes Yes, exactly. The nut against the rim will lock the stem in place and supported by the nut on the inside of the rim. Now if you over torque any of those you will have problems. Hand tight then like half a turn with the wrench :) And as mentioned before, if you've used e fair amount of baby powder on the inside, that tube will stay in place no matter what :) Hope this helped some people!
@AxisDSTC OK I get it .thanks very much .Cheers 🍺
Then why is the washer dimpled to fit the inside of the rim?
@SouthGeorgiaHotShot Good question.A curved washer mates with the tube and valve exit perfectly but without a nut to secure it to the outer side of the tube the joint is greatly compromised. This Is one reason many choose to install a nut on the inside against the beveled washer
مساء الفل 🌹🌹🌹 والجمال 🌺 والورود الله
I used to tighten mine together. Not anymore! I ripped 2 valve stems out in a few months! Both front and rear! (factory set tight) on new bike! Now i run mine loose. Have not had a problem since. On this was a fairly low powered electric dirtbike! (talaria sting). But they also have NO tire lock!!!!!!
Thanks for confirming the right process. Many people argue this issue. Based on your experience it proves the best way is to leave them loose .It's odd there are no rim locks on your bike ,I guess it's cost cutting for them and cost adding for us the consumer. Thanks for sharing your info. Cheers good sir 🍻
@@TRyanLearnBikes yea it’s dumb they don’t have locks. Electric is very torquey but not real fast. And have a strange rim size. But no problems since. Great vids by the way!!
@jondoe6618 Yes we have a couple of electric bikes and heck ya they are little torque monsters for sure I'm glad you brought them up ,they would make an interesting video .And thanks for the kind comments, I genuinely appreciate it. Cheers 🍻
@@TRyanLearnBikes no problem. Happy riding!!
The last nut on the upper position with the cap is correct. Before, I used to have my nut adjusted down with the cap and once I was riding with my bike, i hit a huge nail that punctured my rear tire and the valve got damage so bag it bent and rendered unusable because of the nut below locking into place in the rims.
That's a great bit of advice 👍. Thanks very much I appreciate you taking the time to comment and share your experience. Cheers my friend 🍻
what if you have tubliss?
Not much choice here , valve stems are locked in place into the rim .And as far as locking down the cap ,sure if you want to but there may not be enough threads on the stem to bury the cap and allow for a locknut to seat against it .
With Tubliss they recoment to have a nut tighten to the cap on the high pressure tube. is what I use since the day Tubliss was produced! And for the Tubes, usually for the front tyre, just the cap. sometimes is pulled in all the way.
@ZonaEnduro Good to know ,thanks for the insight .Cheers
🤘🏻
The lock nut should only be used to hold the valve stem for initial inflation. After that, throw it away. It should never be locked down on the rim when the bike is in use. It is not at all uncommon for the tube to "walk" inside the tire (at the low pressures dirt bikes use), and if the valve stem is tightly locked in place, the tube will tear at the base. If you're worried about dirt entry there are a variety of little rubber seals you can buy. I go through tires so fast that dirt entry never becomes an issue for me.
Thanks for taking the time to offer up some great information.
I genuinely appreciate your input .
Cheers 🍻
But at the first place is was placed there so there must a purpose for that
There should not be a nut on the stem on the inside of the rim. The metal base of the valve stem is curved for a reason; it fits nicely into the curve of the rim. For the outside....Buy a set of rubber valve stem grommets ($3-4). Install the rubber grommet over the valve stem and seat to the rim. This helps to keep dirt out of the hole and provides a "rubber-mount" so the stem can move slightly in the hole and prevents the stem from tearing. Install one nut and run it down to the grommet, finger tight. Install the cap.
First person to recommend the rubber grommet installation ,sounds like a fantastic idea .Not entirely on board with not securing the beveled washer with a nut on the inside .Over many years of trying both methods, a nut tight against the inside washer has consistantly proven better results for me .Far less failures at the valve stem joint to the inner tube . I appreciate you taking the time to share your ideas ,Thank you very much .Cheers
Opinions are like balls, everyone has their own...
Well said good sir👍
Not a lip reader, but eyes OK
If you use tyre shine or silicone spray on the tube lil but if air you cooking with gas
Also I reckon it goes one nut under the rim one on top but not tight so it lets it move around a tad
Good info right there ,I will give your suggestions a try .I think you are right with the locknut position too. In further conversations with those in the know it seems to be the right way . Thank you very much for watching and taking the time to comment in such a positive way .Cheers to you good sir .
Is it really necessary to remove the valve stem core? I didn't and it came off (with difficulty), well one side so far and the tube's still in there, but I don't have the tool yet to remove the core. One shop told me they never replace the cores, which I thought may be one reason, but wouldn't pressing on the pin in the middle release all the air? Or enough of it?
Its not necessary but easy enough to do .But what ever works best for you is certainly the way to go
Would this work on ATV tires with the right attachments? We have not only a street bike (tourer with tubeless), adventure bike and dirt bikes with tubed tires, but a 700xx Honda sport quad which I'll soon have to replace tires. In addition to saving lots of time from doing it myself, or of course paying a dealer at $70/tire CAD (that must be on the high side as another is $35/tire), if it saves a few pinched tubes and/or damaged rims it would pay for itself even sooner.
Well sir I'm pretty sure you'd be good with most of your machines except I'm not certain if the quad rims would work on this tire changer .It would be wise to contact the No Mar company for compatability to be absolutely positive if you were considering buying this changer .But if it doesn't do it I'd bet there's other tire changers out there that could.
Good luck ahead. Cheers 🍻
@@TRyanLearnBikes Okay, thanks!