Watched this video long ago and only remembered it in time of need. Bought an abs r200 diff not realising it wouldn’t fit into my s14. I was able to swap the ring gear / crown wheel from the non abs diff internals and fit it into my old abs diff. I was quoted 450$ to get job done, but thought to give it a go. Couldn’t thank you enough! One of the most underrated channels on the platform.
very detailed video man. thank you! cant believe you took your time like that to get the center and washers in line like that. im going on 2 weeks trying to get my j30 shimmed and assembled back together. cant get the axle stubs to go back in. also kinda weird that my driver side has the 1 washer and the passenger side has the 2 washers, yours appear to be vice versa, im pretty sure i didnt mix them up but now im kinda worried haha.
You may have to look at either getting a size smaller side carrier bearing shim or lighty take some material off, on a flat surface with some wet and dry paper on the flat surface. I remember doing this year's ago when I had a neighbour help me shim my diff back in 2007. Always try remember, place in order the shims, bearing ide carriers so that they go back in the same order. It's hard getting the centre in with the side carrier bearings with shim washers. If it's way too tight and just won't go in no matter how hard you're trying, maybe consider taking a touch off the shim to make it slightly a hair thinner. That might help.
@@JoeYates77 I’ve got the old open oem centre with bearings and the new nismo centre with new bearings so might measure the height of both and compare. If they are very different I may do as you suggest or buy different shim size from Nissan
S15 and R34 (and Z33 and newer stuff) ring gear bolts are M13 while S13/14/R32/33 is M12, as you figured out. Nismo sells special bolts to go the other way, for putting an older ring gear on an S15, R34, or Nismo GT diff - they have M12 threads and an M13 shank. I got a set because I'm about to do this job to put an S15 HLSD in my S13.
I'm doing this job currently. And I also find filming and taking pictures helps me remember better. :) also...lucky man s15s native to your country. I'm in the states with a usdm 240 hatch.
Yeah man, very fortunate indeed to have the s15 as locally delivered here. I love the 240 hatches too btw 🙂👌I actually have a 180sx I'll be building as well. I missed my old 180sx's too much so had to buy another to rebuild one this time before there won't be too many left. It's a long way from being a car again, tho plan to gradually build it back to great again. 🙂
@@JoeYates77 precisely why I built mine. I orginally had a coupe. But hatches over here are more plentiful. But as you say...they are getting pretty uncommon as many are getting trashed.
Great video, thanks! Two questions if you don't mind: 1) if the long stub axle c-clip broke so you're having to put a new one on, do you have to get the c-clip in the differential and then install the axle stub? Or can you put it in the groove on the stub axle and then insert the stub axle? 2) I have 5 bolt flanges on my diff like the ones in this video. If I get an R200 with 6-bolt flanges, can I swap my 5-bolt axles into it? Thanks in advance and really appreciate the detail in your video!
Awesome video, thanks! I'm hoping to do my open diff to LSD soon. I noticed you drilled out the 10mm LSD to fit the 12mm bolts on the ring gear. My ring gear is 10mm bolts and the LSD I'm looking at is 12mm. Will it be ok to fit it with the 10mm bolts or should I tap the ring gear to fit 12mm bolts?
Thanks for the video , actually i install a Kaaz 1.5 in my Mazda Rx8 diff and when i turn it by handle there is a little hard point, then it's turning very easy. All bolt are torque with the specs what do you think ? normal because all is new ?
Hey Joe amazing video, I'm looking at replacing my welded centre piece(diff) with an identical vlsd centre. I just wanted to ask if I am able to reuse the stub axles from the welded one for the new centre diff. Thanks!
Yeah mate, as long as they are the same length. You may have to hunt around and purchase 1 x longer stub axle. From memory for the VLSD centre, r33 diff one side has a longer stub axle. Hope that helps 🙂
hey man cheers for the video. I've struck some trouble. wanting to put the centre of my abs diff into my non abs housing. put it back together correctly with the right shims and torqued it. but I can spin the diff basically the whole way around then it gets caught. do I need to swap the pinion from the abs diff too? both diffs were 4.3 so I figured the pinions will be the same. unsure what to do
Hey Dom, thanks mate. Actually I tried this myself, I tried swapping the pinion from an ABS into a short nose non ABS. Unfortunately although the length of the pinion at first seems the same length the bearing size of the bearing on the pinion is not the same size between housings. Found this out the hard way. Also the pinion must be kept with the same ring gear as designed because of the no. of teeth.
@@JoeYates77 ah bugger. any recommendations on what I can do? maybe use the abs diff and get an abs rear half driveshaft for it. do you need to block off where the sensor goes? since I won't have one
@@DomBeal57 yeah you could get a tailshaft to suit the ABS diff and just tie up the ABS sensor or chop it off. (Save the connector and wiring if you wanted to later use it on another car). That's probably the best solution seeing that you don't need the wheel speed sensor in the diff. Easier going to an ABS diff if you don't need the wheel speed reading from the diff than if you wanted to go the opposite. The tailshaft for ABS suited diffs will be shorter. A rear section of an s15 tailshaft should do the trick & keep the not needed tailshafy section just in case you decide to go back.
@@DomBeal57 if you choose to go this route, measure the rear sections of each to be sure that it will suit. I think from memory it's a 15mm difference, approx. Otherwise what you could do is swap the centres but you won't be able to use the pinion and ring gear, also you'll have to use the stub axles to suit/driveshafts another angle to consider. Id probably look at the easier solution which would be obtaining the rear section of an ABS s14/s15 tailshaft and swapping that over.
Hey bud i too ran into that issue where the ring gear bolts from my open diff were 13mm bigger then my cusco holes which were 12mm .. i wanted to ask have u ran into any issues from drilling the holes bigger to fit the bolts? I might have to drill the holes on mine bigger as well..
No troubles at all, tested and working multiple drift meets now. Just drill each hole out in a drill press carefully and as accurately as you can and you should have no dramas 🙂✌
Great video but what I’ll like to find out which shims/spacers did you use. Did you use back the same ones that came out originally or use the ones that came from either diff
From memory, I replaced the worn shims with approximately the same thickness of new shims to replace the old ones because they were scoured, then I added 1 x extra new shim to make the vlsd centre tighter. Hope this helps 🙂
hello,I'm also use kaaz 2way powerlock it's very noise to me and I use 140w oil ..your video use 80w一90w oil, it's better that Kaaz 2way?what kind of powerlock oil refer to kaaz and efficiently to lower the noise🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻many many thanks
Hey Dickson, I would recommend using Kaaz lsd diff oil. Don't worry too much about the diff being noisey, that is just how Kaaz are. I believe Nismo are a little quieter. 🙂
The clutches bind and lock up normally maybe more so if the 2 way clutch type is new. The clutches need to be bedded in by doing figure of 8s for 30min and then changing the oil. It's pretty normal 🙂 however my Kaaz 2 way has half the amount of clutch plates and is more of a sports version. I find my 2 way doesn't bind much at lower speed manoeuvring. However my old 2 way in my 180sx (Kaaz) locked hard most of the time and was clunky, noisey when maneuvering at low speed.
How important is the cap orientation i mixed mine up when installing a nismo diff and don’t wanna ruin a brand new diff should I get a new housing or not worry about it?
Hey Abe, I wouldn't personally go get a new housing. As long as the bearings are not mixed up I would continue. Even if I accidentally mixed up the bearing outer racers I'd still assembly it, install it, if there is a constant wine after installation and testing on the road particularly at highway speed I would then know the bearing may be noisey. If its just the caps and you still have the bearing races matched to their respective side carrier bearing you should be fine. Look for any orientation marks on the caps. I think you will be fine, torque the cap bolts down to spec and send it. 🙂
Hey Pavlos, it's just because of the design of the VLSD put simply. It's the size of the coupling internally compared to a mechanical clutch type LSD. I think both sides are even on a clutch type LSD & on the VLSD one half of the centre with couple is larger than the other side.
It will chatter and bind a bit at low speeds on hard Park low speed cornering and manoeuvring this is normal. The only other source for a clicking noise could be your C.V joints in the drive shafts themselves. Otherwise you can pretty much expect a 2 way to be noisey. However on my Kaaz 2 way sports diff it is not noisey as compared to the 2 way Kaaz I had with 16 plates vs 8. I've got currently a less aggressive sports version it seems.
Watched this video long ago and only remembered it in time of need. Bought an abs r200 diff not realising it wouldn’t fit into my s14. I was able to swap the ring gear / crown wheel from the non abs diff internals and fit it into my old abs diff. I was quoted 450$ to get job done, but thought to give it a go. Couldn’t thank you enough! One of the most underrated channels on the platform.
Thankyou bro, all I can ask is that you spread the word. YT algorithm is not kind! I'm glad you were able to benefit from it mate. Winner 🙂🤙
Super helpful and detailed, mate! Love it. Thanks for the effort 👍🏼
very detailed video man. thank you! cant believe you took your time like that to get the center and washers in line like that. im going on 2 weeks trying to get my j30 shimmed and assembled back together. cant get the axle stubs to go back in. also kinda weird that my driver side has the 1 washer and the passenger side has the 2 washers, yours appear to be vice versa, im pretty sure i didnt mix them up but now im kinda worried haha.
I just spent 2 hours trying to fit the centre absolutely fighting the spacer and preload washers. Dreading trying again tomorrow
You may have to look at either getting a size smaller side carrier bearing shim or lighty take some material off, on a flat surface with some wet and dry paper on the flat surface. I remember doing this year's ago when I had a neighbour help me shim my diff back in 2007. Always try remember, place in order the shims, bearing ide carriers so that they go back in the same order. It's hard getting the centre in with the side carrier bearings with shim washers. If it's way too tight and just won't go in no matter how hard you're trying, maybe consider taking a touch off the shim to make it slightly a hair thinner. That might help.
@@JoeYates77 I’ve got the old open oem centre with bearings and the new nismo centre with new bearings so might measure the height of both and compare. If they are very different I may do as you suggest or buy different shim size from Nissan
S15 and R34 (and Z33 and newer stuff) ring gear bolts are M13 while S13/14/R32/33 is M12, as you figured out. Nismo sells special bolts to go the other way, for putting an older ring gear on an S15, R34, or Nismo GT diff - they have M12 threads and an M13 shank. I got a set because I'm about to do this job to put an S15 HLSD in my S13.
Oh I didn't know that, do you have a part number at all? might be worth sharing the part number. That's handy to know. Thankyou 🙂
@@JoeYates77 38102-RS500 "bolt-drive gear".
This is really a very nice explanation of all steps, thank you!!
Thankyou Filip, you're very welcome 🙂
Really helpful video thanks, exactly what I needed to see. Methodical and great explinations
You're welcome mate. Really happy that you were able to make use of the info and it helped you. 🙂😁✌
I'm doing this job currently. And I also find filming and taking pictures helps me remember better. :) also...lucky man s15s native to your country. I'm in the states with a usdm 240 hatch.
And subbed
Yeah man, very fortunate indeed to have the s15 as locally delivered here.
I love the 240 hatches too btw 🙂👌I actually have a 180sx I'll be building as well. I missed my old 180sx's too much so had to buy another to rebuild one this time before there won't be too many left. It's a long way from being a car again, tho plan to gradually build it back to great again. 🙂
@@JoeYates77 precisely why I built mine. I orginally had a coupe. But hatches over here are more plentiful. But as you say...they are getting pretty uncommon as many are getting trashed.
This is great mate, will reference when I attack my diff!
Likewise, when I have to strip that spare 5 speed box I'll be checking your video out again and again 😀👌
Great video, thanks! Two questions if you don't mind:
1) if the long stub axle c-clip broke so you're having to put a new one on, do you have to get the c-clip in the differential and then install the axle stub? Or can you put it in the groove on the stub axle and then insert the stub axle?
2) I have 5 bolt flanges on my diff like the ones in this video. If I get an R200 with 6-bolt flanges, can I swap my 5-bolt axles into it? Thanks in advance and really appreciate the detail in your video!
Awesome video, thanks! I'm hoping to do my open diff to LSD soon. I noticed you drilled out the 10mm LSD to fit the 12mm bolts on the ring gear. My ring gear is 10mm bolts and the LSD I'm looking at is 12mm. Will it be ok to fit it with the 10mm bolts or should I tap the ring gear to fit 12mm bolts?
Thanks for the video , actually i install a Kaaz 1.5 in my Mazda Rx8 diff and when i turn it by handle there is a little hard point, then it's turning very easy. All bolt are torque with the specs what do you think ? normal because all is new ?
Hey Joe amazing video, I'm looking at replacing my welded centre piece(diff) with an identical vlsd centre.
I just wanted to ask if I am able to reuse the stub axles from the welded one for the new centre diff.
Thanks!
Yeah mate, as long as they are the same length. You may have to hunt around and purchase 1 x longer stub axle. From memory for the VLSD centre, r33 diff one side has a longer stub axle. Hope that helps 🙂
30:05 Why not just buy proper limited slip oil 🤔
Any idea why my output shaft keep pulling out? Already changed the c clip in it
hey man cheers for the video. I've struck some trouble. wanting to put the centre of my abs diff into my non abs housing. put it back together correctly with the right shims and torqued it. but I can spin the diff basically the whole way around then it gets caught. do I need to swap the pinion from the abs diff too? both diffs were 4.3 so I figured the pinions will be the same. unsure what to do
Hey Dom, thanks mate.
Actually I tried this myself, I tried swapping the pinion from an ABS into a short nose non ABS. Unfortunately although the length of the pinion at first seems the same length the bearing size of the bearing on the pinion is not the same size between housings. Found this out the hard way. Also the pinion must be kept with the same ring gear as designed because of the no. of teeth.
@@JoeYates77 ah bugger. any recommendations on what I can do? maybe use the abs diff and get an abs rear half driveshaft for it. do you need to block off where the sensor goes? since I won't have one
@@DomBeal57 yeah you could get a tailshaft to suit the ABS diff and just tie up the ABS sensor or chop it off. (Save the connector and wiring if you wanted to later use it on another car). That's probably the best solution seeing that you don't need the wheel speed sensor in the diff. Easier going to an ABS diff if you don't need the wheel speed reading from the diff than if you wanted to go the opposite. The tailshaft for ABS suited diffs will be shorter. A rear section of an s15 tailshaft should do the trick & keep the not needed tailshafy section just in case you decide to go back.
@@DomBeal57 if you choose to go this route, measure the rear sections of each to be sure that it will suit. I think from memory it's a 15mm difference, approx.
Otherwise what you could do is swap the centres but you won't be able to use the pinion and ring gear, also you'll have to use the stub axles to suit/driveshafts another angle to consider. Id probably look at the easier solution which would be obtaining the rear section of an ABS s14/s15 tailshaft and swapping that over.
@@JoeYates77 Yea will do I'll let you know how I get along. its for my c33 laurel. been doing a lil s15 sr20de+t build for it
Awesome dude thank u
Hey bud i too ran into that issue where the ring gear bolts from my open diff were 13mm bigger then my cusco holes which were 12mm .. i wanted to ask have u ran into any issues from drilling the holes bigger to fit the bolts? I might have to drill the holes on mine bigger as well..
No troubles at all, tested and working multiple drift meets now. Just drill each hole out in a drill press carefully and as accurately as you can and you should have no dramas 🙂✌
Great video but what I’ll like to find out which shims/spacers did you use. Did you use back the same ones that came out originally or use the ones that came from either diff
From memory, I replaced the worn shims with approximately the same thickness of new shims to replace the old ones because they were scoured, then I added 1 x extra new shim to make the vlsd centre tighter. Hope this helps 🙂
Killing it. Can’t wait to see it on track. P.s.. how good is diff oil smell. Should make a scented candle or something with the scent haha
Thanks mate, me too, I'm definitely looking forward to it.
Haha, yeah the diff oil smell lasts for days. Well... the old diff oil smell anyway.
hello,I'm also use kaaz 2way powerlock it's very noise to me and I use 140w oil ..your video use 80w一90w oil, it's better that Kaaz 2way?what kind of powerlock oil refer to kaaz and efficiently to lower the noise🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻many many thanks
Hey Dickson,
I would recommend using Kaaz lsd diff oil.
Don't worry too much about the diff being noisey, that is just how Kaaz are. I believe Nismo are a little quieter. 🙂
Any reason you went with a 2-way rather than a 1.5 or 1-way?
Are the stub splines the same size on the 6 bolt and 5 bolt?
My G37's r200 only has one mounting bolt on the diff cover 🥺
Gktech I believe make a mid to convert your hat to 2 stud. Definitely worth a look into.
Is the diff centre in this video a Kaaz or a Tomei? I have the same diff in my S13 but struggling to identify it. Cheers!
i have a kaaz 2 way....on tight turns do you sometimes hear the clutchs locking and unlocking quickly? like a shuttering on tight turns
The clutches bind and lock up normally maybe more so if the 2 way clutch type is new. The clutches need to be bedded in by doing figure of 8s for 30min and then changing the oil. It's pretty normal 🙂 however my Kaaz 2 way has half the amount of clutch plates and is more of a sports version. I find my 2 way doesn't bind much at lower speed manoeuvring.
However my old 2 way in my 180sx (Kaaz) locked hard most of the time and was clunky, noisey when maneuvering at low speed.
How important is the cap orientation i mixed mine up when installing a nismo diff and don’t wanna ruin a brand new diff should I get a new housing or not worry about it?
Hey Abe, I wouldn't personally go get a new housing. As long as the bearings are not mixed up I would continue. Even if I accidentally mixed up the bearing outer racers I'd still assembly it, install it, if there is a constant wine after installation and testing on the road particularly at highway speed I would then know the bearing may be noisey.
If its just the caps and you still have the bearing races matched to their respective side carrier bearing you should be fine. Look for any orientation marks on the caps. I think you will be fine, torque the cap bolts down to spec and send it. 🙂
Why tomei has same lenght axle flanges and the vlsd has one short and one longer??
Hey Pavlos, it's just because of the design of the VLSD put simply.
It's the size of the coupling internally compared to a mechanical clutch type LSD. I think both sides are even on a clutch type LSD & on the VLSD one half of the centre with couple is larger than the other side.
@@JoeYates77 so it is just up to the lsd manufacturer if the diff will keep the uneven flanges or to go with two of the same size
Installed mine and sometimes hear a clicking when making certain turns in lower gears. This normal vro?
It will chatter and bind a bit at low speeds on hard Park low speed cornering and manoeuvring this is normal. The only other source for a clicking noise could be your C.V joints in the drive shafts themselves. Otherwise you can pretty much expect a 2 way to be noisey. However on my Kaaz 2 way sports diff it is not noisey as compared to the 2 way Kaaz I had with 16 plates vs 8. I've got currently a less aggressive sports version it seems.