BIAS BINDING up a storm! 3 great WAYS + one I DISLIKE WITH PASSION. Neat woven armholes & necklines.
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- Hello friends, here is a helpful sewing technique episode for you. I know a lot of us have struggled with bias tape and binding armholes and necklines at some point. Happily, it’s an area where we can all improve. The finish with bias tape is super neat and gives you a lot of freedom in your sewing.
I am sharing 3 ways to do this. One is where the bias tape is hidden inside the garment, another where the tape wraps around the raw edge and is exposed and the third is my favourite shortcut way. Towards the end, you will see a method I dislike with passion too lol.
Come join me and let’s bias bind up a storm together!
Helpful video: How to make continuous bias tape from a square plus 2 seams. • Continuous Bias Tape t...
Chapters
00:00 Introduction
13:50 Hidden bias binding for armholes and necklines
22:31 Exposed bias binding for armholes & necklines
22:31 Exposed bias binding: the short cut - my favorite
24:26 The binding finish I DISLIKE with passion lol
Music from Uppbeat (free for Creators!):
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I just wanted to get to the way to apply bias tape not to have to sit through a long monologue!
She gives time stamps for each example in her description before the video. Just skip to it…
My mother was a professional dressmaker and she always said that hand basting was the answer to a superior finish.
Love your videos.
I disregarded 🤦🏼♀️ your comments on hand basting .As it reminded me of boring homecraft lessons at school.
I was making top trying to pin the binding on , the fabric was like water. Bingo remembered your video. It took me less time to hand bast then all the time I tried to pin! And so much easier to sew.
Thank you it’s always great to learn , relearn and remember techniques. Specially from someone as articulate as you.
Fantastic thanks so much, blessings from BC 🇨🇦🙏🙏🙏
I can finally see a clear shot of how you join the bias binding together under the arm
Thank you for your video, I like the method you use and I am a quilter so I have to have the ends joined like yours!😊
I LOVE the diagonal method you described! I've never heard of that before! I'm obviously not a quilter! lol Thanks so much!
My hidden bias always ends up rippled when I topstitch. I'm excited to try this technique :)
Such a good tutorial! And… 24:00 this pattern is so gorgeous. LOVE! ❤️
Thank you for another excellent tutorial - so clear. You’ve really helped me to get my neckline to look so much better. 😄
I'm so glad!
I'm a quilter and all you need to do is add the width of the actual bias tape to the length of the measurement and you will have enough for making the diagonal join👍
Great tutorial! I came and watched and then am going back to your current video right now, but you had this one mentioned and I wanted to see this one 1st. HI BTW ❣️💙
I have a suggestion to help instantly make that top stitched seam look ultra professional; use a edge stitching foot! It will help keep your needle at the exact same distance from the edge for the entire length of top stitching.
I LOVE your fabric choices with your blouses!! Great tutorial!!
I use the blind hem presser foot (with the needle to the left) all the time to edge stitch and I show that on all my videos. I do alternate with the regular presser foot.
Karina, this was so much fun to learn. Thank you. 😊
You are so welcome!
Another GREAT tutorial Karina, thank YOU! I have not tried bias binding for armscye *yet* but now I can with your easy to understand tutorial. It provides me with the confidence to try. I admire all of your beautiful clothing and the attention to detail and quality you get in everything you make. This is why I have tried to make my own clothing. Thank you for sharing and teaching your sewing techniques. It is very helpful to all of us!
Love how thorough you are. Thank you for all of your videos.
Karina! I love watching your videos for your techniques. There is always something you have to refresh my memory. I prefer having neat finishes too. Thank you for showing the diagonal technique.
I'm in Australia and our large sewing stores ( Spotlight and Lincraft ) have very bland and rather expensive packets of bias binding. Solid colours only which I guess is fair enough, but around $8 to $11 for 3 metres from memory which is un-necessary added cost for me when I'm putting a project together . Fortunately I started out sewing many moons ago in home furnishings so learned to make my own bias binding ( usually to make piping ) right from the get go so I have only ever bought a store pack maybe twice. What's more... I might be the odd one out here but I actually enjoy making bias binding, especially continuous lengths. I've had a Simplicity Bias Binder Maker sitting in my sewing room unboxed for about 20 years now but I plan on checking it out this weekend. I'd love to hear if any Aussies know of somewhere better than S & L.
Thanks so much for the great tutorial. You are a wonderful teacher and the first place I go to when looking for sewing help. thanks!
You are so welcome!
Love you in those colors. The background and blouse. ✨
Wonderful instructions & filming! Thank you for this
There are places where you can use wider bias tape. I used it for pocket, pants and skirt waist. sometimes on acrylic jackets, baby blankets...
Yes but this video was about rounded areas like necklines and armholes. Of course straight areas handle wider binding but it was not my focus here.
Thanks for sharing all the tips for sewing on Bias tape.
I recently purchased a Simplicity Bias tape maker. It's been a game changer in making and using bias on my garments.
That angled join is brilliant - I don't know why it never occurred to me! Will do that from now on, thank you.
That is what I already used in1970.
@@Avotts Well, if that wasn't already clear to you from your superiority in this tiny area, I wasn't even alive yet in 1970. Good for you, I guess?
Well EXCUSE ME for having learned that so long ago. You really dont have to be snotty and rude. The video people ask for comments as it is how they get paid. I just stated a fact.@@beth12svist
@@Avotts Well, yes, that was a bit snotty of me. Seriously, though, you replied to me, not directly to the video. What WAS I supposed to make of it, without any further context tying it to what _I_ said? It did come across rather patronising.
@@beth12svistyour comments are justified. It’s as if she wants you to give her a big ol pat on the back.
I guess it’s our responsibility to feed these people egos.
I have learned so much from you. THANKS!!
Many thanks again Karina, for a very well explained tutorial. The neckline is so important in a garment and your methods give such a professional finish
Once I tried bias binding for the first time, I ditched facings which I’ve always hated. As I sew with mostly Rayon due to my humid climate in Northern Australia, I’ve mostly used the cotton double sided bias tape from Spotlight, which works out well and gives a neat finish (I do a “stitch in the ditch” using a guideline I’ve sewn for the seam allowance, then similar instructions as yours). But, from this video, I will definitely start making my own, and also try an exposed bias binding - thank you for your wonderful tips❤️
It's hard for me to sew facings too. Bias tape uses less fabric and is so much faster, no fuss at this point.... though they still have their place :)
Hey RebeccaW - I live in Cairns (that's Far North Queensland for people overseas). I also love rayon because it stands up to the tropic heat and is so easy to wear and wash. I have the normal problems with getting the grain straight, but I've always done what you suggested in another video to pin the two selvages along the length of the fabric. I thought I was the only person that thought of this, but I'm glad to see I'm not alone. The more advice you can give on using rayon fabric, the better. We can always use more information and tricks of the trade. Thank you so much.
U have done a great job educating me with crotches n bias binding. I wish I lived near u n could soak up all of your wisdom .
Excellent tutorial!!! Thank you!!!!
You're very welcome!
What a coincidence, I just watched your „old“ video last week, and used your technique with cutting away one fold. As always, your tutorials are great. Thanks a lot.
Glad it was helpful! I didn't film under stitching or how to join the ends back then. Oops :)
Your binding looks so much better than facings. Thanks for another great video!
Thanks for all these tips! Hand basting is such a good idea! Very helpful!
Thank you! This is such an important skill! You are a master!
I always make my own bias binding. I use the fold in half method, I find it to be more stable.
Very well done Karina
Cute summer top. Love the new Itch to Stitch pattern. I will definitely get this one. Yours is gorgeous. Love the print.
Well, I took the store bought bias binding off my Rhapsody blouse and finished it with a combo of techniques I have seen you use on your channel. Much improved. I think I will wear it now. Thank you for all your tips. With your help, I am slowly upping my sewing game. 🥰
I’m in process of making my first dress. Just simple shift type of dress. I did goof on my shoulders but I figure with fall coming up I’ll be wearing a sweater or jacket with it. I was following this tutorial where you do a basting stitch on inside and flip it over to right side & stitch right above basting stitch. What a pain! I like your method of just stitching on wrong side and it looks good on right side. I’m pretty excited as I see so many ways to change look of shift and even shorten it for tops. I do have a couple of pattern changes to make but it is a learning process.
Thank you! Such a helpful video and I wish it was available when I first got back into garment sewing. I ended up sacrificing a top to try all the different binding methods I had used over the years. This video will be a great resource in the future ❤️
So helpful! Thank you 🙏
Just love your tutorials! It’s like you read my mind. Sewing my Cadence tank and wanted to do a bias binding on the neckline and armholes. Had some oddly shaped pieces of fabric and somehow ended up with a really nice tank (the back peplum technique) Make #1 will be completed tomorrow and then onto #2 - the gathered shoulders style. ❤️🇨🇦
Thank you
I just used your exposed method! Thank you. Such good directions!
I love the blue and white blouse!
Love your tutorials, you brought me back to sewing. I hadn't sew a garment in years but stumbled across one of your videos and started with a Love Notions PDF. Thank you! Love from Canada PS I do not have a good source of nice bindings where I live.
Oh, Thank You! The angled join always intimidated me, but I followed your video and it wasn't so hard at all!
Glad it helped!
Great tutorial👍
Wow so easy.I appreciate this much. It supercedes having to do a fba🎉
Hello. I’m in the UK. I just love your videos. You explain it so simply without OVER explaining, if you know what I mean by
No worries dear Karina , yr older video on Bias binding has been very helpful indeed 😋.
I saw a blouse yesterday at the shop , it had an Exposed facing ( just learn this terminology from this video ! ) . I spent all day wondering how to sew bias tape / necklines this way . Thank you for this video, for sharing your techniques and for explaining so well . I will watch it a couple of times to learn Karina’s way !
I mostly make my own bias tape because I only have the packages of bias tape available to me which I hate (I am in the US). I have learned so many great tips from your videos on using bias binding, especially the trimming of one folded edge of the tape, and now the diagonal join.
Thank you for sharing all this info.. I have just cut out the harmony blouse and realized the instructions included a non-visible binding on the neckline and I was in a bit of a panic as I have not sewn this before.... this was perfect timing for me :)
Thanks for shearing - I'v used both methods, depending on fabrics and if it's innside og for show. Works for me . Love to make my own, using your tutorial, super fun.
Thank you so much. So informative.
Glad you liked it 😀😀
Another fantastic vlog, thank-you and very interesting to see the different sewing widths for necklines vs arms. I would love to see how to combine knit bindings on woven fabrics - ratios etc.
I don’t actually use knit binding on woven fabrics, ever. I keep wovens with wovens and knits with knits when I sew. Can you tell me why this is something you’d like to do?
Really useful video, thanks. For quirky bias binding in the U.K. I go to The Specky Seamstress ❤️
Wonderful update on bias binding. 🤓. Would you please consider teaching the fine points of hand basting with rationale why you do as you do?
I actually do nothing technical with hand basting at all. There is no finesse. It's really quite messy and I take long stitches. I just want to hold the fabric down exactly where it needs to be for the technique I am sewing.
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Well, Karina, I've noticed that your basting looks uniform sized, with straight lines, all a given distance from the edge. When you matched your stripes to form chevrons, you were particular about needle placement. Maybe your lesson would be brief, but I'd appreciate your thought process as you hand sew. What you take for granted as second nature from experience must be taught to the likes of me. Also, I see you place pins sometimes perpendicular to the sewing line and other times parallel, even directly on the seam line. You must have good reasons. Do tell?
Thank you so much.
This is just great. I made the mistake of thinking it would be OK if I used wider bias binding. As you said, it ended up a puckered mess and was ruining the look of the rest of the dress. So I carefully picked out all the stitches and re-did it with more narrow binding and following our steps. I am much happier with the finished armhole now. So BIG THANKS for sharing your skills.
Thank u so much. I’ve struggled with bias tape in the past. Great tutorial. I use Wrights from the US. It’s pretty commonly used. U can find it at any sewing store or Walmart
Thank you very much for this video. I was asked for a commissioned project and the material is too thin looking for the facing pieces the pattern calls for.
I'm new to actually binding edges, so when you said facings were an option, I fell in love with the video.
Very Nice 🎉
Thanks!
Honestly I have never bought bias tape in a store. I have bought it at yard sales and estate sales here in North Florida USA. I have also been gifted by people looking for someone to take their family members stash after they passed. So I look for yard sales and I take whatever someone gives and sort it out afterwards. I have made my own as well and I use oversized bias on the edges of quilts and hot mitts or hotpads.
Oh Karina, this was sooo helpful....just what I needed. I do have a bias tape maker and I never even opened the package, but I do know where it is 😊..... I'm working on bias binding right now and had a hard time moving forward with it. Thank you once again!
Once you start doing it a lot, you'll love it.
Thank you for your wonderful tips and tutorial. I have learned some of this a long time ago but since I haven't used it I needed a refresher and you helped me out a lot and gave me some new tips. There is no quality bias tape I have found in the big box fabric stores. I do have some on hand for emergencies if somebody wants her costume made quickly or something but I prefer to make my own as you do also. I have subscribed thank you so much. I also forward you to a friend of mine😁
I've actually never found nice tape to purchase. That's why I like making mine :)
I haven’t found a good source for bias tape in either the USA or Europe. I mostly make my own too! Sure, I can buy it but it’s over priced and often poor quality and packaged in small amounts. Thanks for the refresher course.❤
Your bindings always turn out so well, they’re so pleasing to look at.
I make my own, i much prefer my binding to be made from the same fabric. I have one of those Singer bias making machines, they’re a bit pricey but worth it if you prefer bindings. Best. Thing. Ever!
Wonderful! that machine sounds like a dream. I love making my own too. I'll grab the bought one when I'm too exhausted :)
Never heard of this machine to make bias tape. Looked it up on Amazon 😳wow, $500 ! I’ll definitely be making my own.
Thank you Karina, your videos are always very helpful and full of such great professional and handy tips.
Another informative and practical video Karina. I make my own binding for quilts and in Australia I haven’t seen the lovely binding you have access to. Maybe another Aussie can chime in and share their info. 😀
It’s generally hard to find nice bis tape out there. I hope the one I have lasts for a long time
I used binding on a dress neckline and the only way it looked good was to pull it a bit as I sewed. First time just sewing flat looked awful, not sure why this was. I try to use my own binding, prefer the same fabric as the garment. Thanks for a fantastic channel, I'm learning so much from you 😍
Hi Karina, Another very helpful and clearly explained tutorial for which I am grateful especially as Ive just watched your video on the Rhapsody Blouse you made into a lovely dress using Crepe (it has the nice wide ties/bow at the neckline, gorgeous). Your binding techniques are fabulous and I am grateful for your hard work which benefits all of us so much. xx
Glad it was helpful!
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Genuine thanks to you Karina - you are a gem.
Cool
I tried using shop bought bias binding a couple of times and hated the results. I probably wasn't doing it right. But it put me off completely and I now draft narrow facings if the pattern doesn't have them. I know at some stage I should try bias finishes again. When I do, I shall follow your methods. Thanks for covering this topic so clearly and comprehensively 🙏
Narrow facings are nice too but I find them
More work. I hope you give binding a go again.
Ty I knew I was doing something wrong joining the bias straight, but could nt figure out what the solution was. Thank you so much.
What about with knits, for like finishing collars? Thanks for this video btw. Also can we see more on pockets, and other places to add bias tape for wovens and knits. 😊
This video is about wovens, not knits and it's not applicable to knits at all. I don't use bias tape on knits at all.
OMG, thank you so much for this, Karina! I thought I was going crazy. I bought ready-made bias tape and it has zero stretch. I couldn't understand why the call it bias tape. If it doesn't stretch, what's the point? It's not wide enough to use in quilting, and it doesn't conform to curves. Such a waste of money. I'll be making my own from now on.
Thanks for another great tutorial!
I like the bias tape from Wawak. I live in the United States.
Which one is soft and the correct width? I need a couple other things from there but stumped on this item.
This is a great video that I will refer back to. I'm currently sewing a pattern with very skimpy instructions, all it says is "sew binding to neckline". So I appreciate the detailed instructions you give. Also, I was wondering if you could share the pattern information for the top/blouse with the gathered grown on sleeve and front panel you show the line drawing for? I haven't seen that one anywhere before! Thank you!
This is a great video! I had already watched your old one a bunch of times trying to up my bias binding game, but this one is very comprehensive. Love it! ❤️ Also, I used store bought bias tape on a Rhapsody blouse I made and I hate it. I have never worn the blouse. I couldn’t really pinpoint why. It came out like it was supposed to but it looks so wrong! I am going to take it off and do something better. Thank you so much. 🥰
Thanks so much for the video! Very helpful as usual! I love the top you are wearing. What pattern is that? I usually make my own binding but I know Wawak has a lot online in the United States. Not sure if they ship internationally.
It's the perfect tunic from Wardrobe by me. This is the video about it ua-cam.com/video/fOBYa37i_sc/v-deo.html
I have a pattern that has straight grain binding. I've never heard of it and can't imagine how that won't twist and make puckers.
If it’s a knit, that’s how it’s supposed to be but if it’s for woven…. Like you say, it won’t work around curves at all.
I don't really know what constitutes good quality bias tape, I just get mine from my local Joann's in the U.S.
I think I will be more mindful about buying it in the future
Some of them are very stiff and hard to press into curves.
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Oh ok.... I'll keep that in mind
do knit fabrics have to be cut on the bias for bias tape? Wonderful video. thanks.
This video is only about using woven fabric to bind woven garments. Knit sewing is completely out of context for this video and nothing in this video applies to knit. Have a look at my knit binding Masterclass video instead: ua-cam.com/video/y73XVGTDz1g/v-deo.html
Short answer: no, no bias cutting for knits. You also can’t use woven bias tape on knit sewing.
Thank you for this post! I am about to make the LN harmony with very finicky crinkle, viscose crêpe fabric that did not do well with facings previously, so I’m hoping I can make bias tape from it to make the harmony. If it’s too finicky, would you recommend making bias tape from satin fabric since I can’t find premade, nice bias tape, other than the packaged kind that is stiff and icky? I’m familiar with making cotton bias tape for quilts, but apparel fabric is different. Thank you for your awesome videos!
If you are going to make it, the same fabric you are using for your garment it always going to be better. Making it from satin is difficult, not impossible but it’s slippery, hard to cut and press.
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles thank you; the crinkle rayon is a bear to work with, but I’m going to attempt it. It frays like crazy and because it’s crinkled, it behaves like a knit in some ways.
@@Wnderlnd spray starch can help manage it
Hmm, might try the shortcut method, thank you. Off topic, but do you have a video about getting rid of excess fabric pooling at the small of your back on knit fabric? I've watched videos about doing a sway back adjustment on the pattern, but can't find any info on how to fix on the actual garment. Thanks Karina.
The excess fabric is not something you can fix easily once the garment is already sewn unfortunately. That’s what the pattern adjustment would fix before sewing it. Other than adding back waist darts or a seam at the waist after the fact, it’s not something you can perfect once the garment is sewn.
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Ok, many thanks for your reply.
Love it I would like the pattern not sure how to buy it
The Lemont top? Here is the link itch-to-stitch.com/product/lemont-top-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/?affiliates=218
Hi, one of your examples is for the new Itch to Stitch Lemont Top. The sizing doesn't make sense to me. What does she mean by regular and full bust, waist, and hip? I assume regular and full bust means B cup and D cup? These are listed in the body measurement chart. But what are regular and full waist and hip? These are listed in the finished measurement chart. I just bought the pattern with your affiliate link and want to print it off.
I just answered your question in the other comment and my
Video is about to go up now :)
I was also wondering in the Lemont pattern, in the two size ranges of patterns, is the smaller size range B cup and the larger size range D cup, or are both cup sizes in both size ranges of patterns?
There is no mention of B or D cup in the pattern. Regular bust is for 0-3” difference and that is A-C cup. And the full bust is for 3” or more difference between the high/full bust making it for more than a C cup. What I can say is that the full bust option has 3” extra in general at the bust and 2” extra at the hips. It’s very well made for a looser style like this. The regular and full bust is available in all the sizes 00-40US.
If you substitute a binding for a facing that has a 5/8 seam would you do a 5/8 seam on the binding.
That would be messy and hard to do. If you sew the binding at 1/4” (easier), the garment would end up being 3/8 “taller” and more coverage is not a bad thing.
I’ve been sewing for 50+ years and would never use the sneaky method - the “correct” method takes only a few minutes more but is much nicer.
It’s great to sew the way we like. I’ve done the sneaky way countless amounts of times and with all types of fabrics and it always looks just as nice as the “correct” way. That’s why I’m calling it sneaky…. I share how I sew on this channel and keep it real when showing the options. I’m not going to pretend I do it the traditional way 100% of the times, when I don’t 😀.
Is it okay to use scraps to make bias tape if it's not very thin and flowy like the pieces you are showing here? I always thought because it's not cut at the perfect angle, you shouldn't use scraps for bias. Thank you I'm learning this is new to me. Also, what about fabric with a 4 way stretch? Couldnt you cut the bias strip any way you want? Thanks you are very talented.
When I use scraps, I make sure to determine the grain or cross grain by pulling out one of the fibers. Then I get a straight edge to measure a 45 degree angle.
You don’t make bias tape with knit fabrics. This is just for wovens. To cut binding from knits, it has to be on the grainline…. Cutting it on the bias would negate the stretch the elastane provides horizontally and vertically.
@@LiftingPinsandNeedles Thank you so much for your help. This makes sense now.
This is so helpful. I’m confused about one thing. 9:51 wrt Understitching: Can anyone please explain the difference between the two methods (using different presser feet)? I have to watch on mobile and even zooming in I’m having trouble seeing what’s different between method one vs the one at 10:10. Many thanks!
The first one is using the blind hem presser foot… that one has a small metal ridge that goes along the seam and with the needle to the left it gives you perfect sewing on the edge without any effort. The second method is using a regular presser foot where you have to concentrate to sew straight because you are moving the fabric under the machine. They are both very different… if you don’t have a blind presser foot, it’ll be hard to visualise though.
What is the pattern for the second blouse? I love it!
The Lemont top from Itch to Stitch. I have the video up already. itch-to-stitch.com/product/lemont-top-digital-sewing-pattern-pdf/?affiliates=218
What pattern are you showing that has the shoulder seam and then gathered dolman. Its the section with exposed binding.
It’s a pattern releasing today! I’ll have a video about it soon today :)
I’m afraid of doing method #2. I fear the binding looking “wobbly” and unprofessional. Then, I would be unhappy.
It’s all about how often we do it. Practice makes all techniques look better over time. Mine turn out super neat, but they weren’t when I started.