I have a L3200 that needs exactly what you just gained. Thanks for all the time you put into the video. Ordering a gauge and some shims. I know a guy that put his grapple bucket from his 4000 series Kubota on his new Bobcat skid steer and broke the grapple. The Bobcat was set around 3500 psi. WOOPS, sometimes experience takes time, money, and a welder to get there.
Thanks for the spreed sheet along with the explanation of 1.3 factor . I normally would not leave feed back but you definitely take it as far as possible on your modifications and justifying the improvements. Douglas
@@netmagi Thanks for the great video. The loader ram force does increase in direct proportion to the pressure, but... part of that ram force is used to lifter the loader itself. As you increase the pressure, all of the "extra" ram force goes into increasing useful load, since the weight of the loader stays the same. I think that's why the useful (measured) load increases by a higher percentage than the pressure does.
Best "show" I've seen. I have a B3200 that I installed a larger diameter cylinder and added brackets below the boom to relocated the new cylinders. I also have a 4n1 bucket that I bought from a Bobcat dealer. The bucket was quite heavy. I cut 9" of the front and removed some other bracing to lower the dead weight of the bucket. I always have some counterweight on my quick hitch for stability. I just built a counterweight with a pump pressure tank and misc. iron(mostly train rail). I had shied away from increasing the hyd pressure. Again, great detail on the instructions.
As a fellow L2501 owner and small UA-cam channel poster, I appreciate the time involved and the breakdown. Very interesting info. And the 1.3% gain in results. I think you nailed the largest factor is having enough ballast to be safe. Most guys won't have the weight, (and leverage being out away from the tractor distance wise) that the backhoe provides. Just with any machine, I believe seat time will provide the "feel" that is important for safety. Like my L2501, I can feel when I'm pushing certain limits. I do see myself eventually adding this ability. I would add, if you haven't added a rear wheel spacer, I strongly recommend it, I added 3" to each side and it made my tractor "feel" and look like a whole new tractor. I'll be subscribing to your channel, can't wait to see more of your videos. I run some pretty oversized stuff on my L2501, like my 1100lb snow pusher. Lol. RB3772 rear blade (same one "Outdoor with the Morgan's run on his 55hp) and my 68" rear snow blower meant for a 35hp. If your curious, check out a few on my videos. Great work and I do soooooo appreciate the time put in.
Great vent blocking tip! Messicks has a good video about hydraulic spike pressures. Getting crazy on the implements is more damaging to the system. Next, need a gas tank is near full beeper. 😩
I believe kubota regulates lift capacity for safety reasons….without bias im sure the tractor would donkey over ! Great video …I did this to my tractor and made a big difference
Looking for a L3901 or bobcat 2040. Both 40 hp. For tree service, land clearing and landscape. Very interested in removing dpf ! I've heard- you can just remove the filter and run it.. like to know for sure
Hey buddy, I just saw a post on Facebook that made me think of this video. A guy had issues with his lifting on a L3901. He had the dealer come to his place, do a test and then shimmed him to 2700psi and documented the trip and work. He loves the lifting power now. I was surprised a dealer would go that high and "document" it to save the warranty I guess?? I'm interested in your thoughts.
Brand new l2501. My pressure is 2075 psi stock. Mine had two .4 and two .2 shims it looked like. I added a .4 and a .2 and now I’m at 2400 even with the same winters gauge. I have no way of testing weight lifting. I know I easily lifted 1250lbs in the bucket before. My only seat of the pants test will be with a extremely full bucket heaped with moist 22a gravel. Stock it would lift but you could tell that was just about it.
Get RimGuard in those rear tires! (if you haven't yet) You will not regret it! Better stability, traction and helps tractor stay planted when using backhoe.
I considered it, but the BH does a good job counterbalancing whatever I lift, and I don't want the overall machine to weigh any more. Aside from when it's real wet and soft in the winter, I can go pretty much anywhere in my yard without leaving ruts/tread marks and I really like that.
@@netmagi Totally understand on that rut making. Just in case you ever find you do need to fill the tires, I have a B2650 (which is lighter than the L) tires filled RimGuard and have the B77 as well. I have found even with the yard wet (not saturated) lm not leaving any ruts. Just for reference to give you some idea. 👍
Thx, and welcome. Been sub'd on your channel for a while. Thx for all the vids. ZERO issues with the higher pressure. Everything is designed to handle well over stock pump PSI due to pressures created even if the tractor was off and weight was being applied at the loader pivot, up to the amt that would cause it to tip forward. In theory, you'd have to the chain the rear down to the ground and exceed the tipping weight at the loader pivot to cause damage. I think Kubota tends to just set the PSI at where the tipping point isn't reached over a few inches of lift with no counterweight for safety. Most industrial machines are set high enough to reach tipping point, as the hydraulic lines/controls have to support that pressure anyway. One exception would be the pump, as you're driving it 'harder' with a higher setting, but there doesn't seem to be any documented cases of people wearing them out any faster, and we don't know what it's *really* rated for. Obviously the more weight you have at the front pivot (with or without a PSI change) the faster any pins or other moving parts will wear in daily use.
Great video series on the L2501! Thank you! The engine improvements is an outstanding project. I’m disappointed with Kubota for producing a tractor that pumps out so much soot. Almost criminal.
You can bet the hydraulics are set to keep you from flipping it over in most situations, not necessarily what the frame will take, that said if you are going to do this sort of thing, use a spotter to make sure you are not lifting wheels or getting unstable. plus since you have the counter weight of a backhoe, you may actually have far exceeded the lift capacity of a bar tractor with the same bucket. Not saying this is a bad idea, just saying watch those rear tires when you are doing this
hey man great vid and sub'd! how's the l2501 D1703 engine mod vid coming along? im gonna get my bro n law to help with this and the D1703 tuning mod when him comes down for the holidays. im jonesing man... BOLO! btw im tractorX on OTT.
Good info and thanks for posting. One note though. I've never used a digital micrometer, only the good old fashioned vernier units, but I assume they work the same. If not, I'll stand corrected. Use the large barrel to measure the thickness, not the small one on the end. That is used to adjust the "feel" so the operator can be consistent when measuring. Some will want to "clamp" a little harder than others. Yeah, yeah, not a C-Clamp!
The small barrel on a modern micrometer isn't used to adjust the tension, it works instead like a mechanical slip clutch ensuring all operators apply the same force.
I know you said you the back end did not lift on you with the increased lift capacity. Since that was a static test, I am curious if the increased load while moving makes any difference. I have a backhoe too and they make an awesome ballast. weight.
I guess you need to speak up, provide close caption or wear a mic. Overall good info, however I'm trying to locate the relief valve on the B7800 to bump up the grunt and all the vids on YT are of BX and L series units. I'll have to dig into a hydraulic parts diagram to try and locate it's where abouts. Thanks for sharing!
I don't recall, but it will vary a bit from tractor to tractor. I would strongly advise measuring pressure before and after. The shims are cheap. I would just pickup a small assortment. The shipping will probably be more than the shims.
All significantly above this. Why?: Due to the pressures created when stopping a falling load. Basically, everything is sized to accommodate AT LEAST the pressure created to cause a machine to tip forward with the max rated weight on the 3-pt as ballast.
There's a throttle-limit bolt on the right side of the engine under the black side cover. Move the throttle while watching that side and you can see the bolt that stops it. I would recommend setting to ~2700rpms. I rarely rev the machine that high, I'm usually between 1800 and 2500 rpms's, but it's good to have it there when you need it.
Possibly. They would have to prove your adjustment is what caused the issue. For example, if your seat safety switch fails, they're going to have a tough time saying you voided warranty on seat by increasing hydraulic pressure. . . If your loader, valving, or pump fails. . yeah, you're on your own. BOTTOM LINE: I would recommend waiting till the warranty is up before making any major changes/adjustments to your tractor. I may not if I needed the performance, but that's on each owner to make that call and take responsibility for their actions. In my case, the warranty was up almost a year ago.
Freedom to make changes & adjustments comes with risk. The intent of this video is to help people understand how the system works, the limitations, and other factors to consider towards assessing that risk. This video isn't for everybody, and everyone needs to take personal responsibility for their own actions.
@@netmagi my stock pressure was almost 2100 psi…..bumped it to just over 2500 psi…big difference in lift capacity …. Should be safe imo ….I mean the hoses are rated to 3000 psi.
While I usually try not to feed the trolls, this is straight up misinformation. The Kioti comparable loader, the KL4030 lifts 1,835lbs from the pins @ just under 60" lift height. The LA525 lifts 1,803 lbs at the same height, at the same PSI setting, or 1,490lbs at factory PSI. Even factory PSI vs. factory PSI, that's a difference of less than 25%, not 100% (or twice as much) like you claim. Kioti likes to lead with their 60" number (1,835lbs), while Kubota leads with their lift capacity at FULL HEIGHT, 95" (1,082lbs). Don't get tricked by the marketing folks at Kioti that are banking on folks making this same mistake when comparing.
@@netmagi You get a gold star for this response. In hydraulics the PSI, Cyl size, and where it is placed on the lever arm are ALL that matters. In the case of loaders, all about in the same configuration. You can't beat physics.
Tend to agree with you in general, and their fork frames probably wouldn’t hold up on a skid steer, but on an L-series tractor, their fork frames are a good match and economical.
Thank you soo much for this video. L3901 owner here.
I have a L3200 that needs exactly what you just gained. Thanks for all the time you put into the video. Ordering a gauge and some shims.
I know a guy that put his grapple bucket from his 4000 series Kubota on his new Bobcat skid steer and broke the grapple. The Bobcat was set around 3500 psi. WOOPS, sometimes experience takes time, money, and a welder to get there.
Glad I could help
Thanks so much for the video. As a L3901 owner I have been disappointed with the loader, so your fix is on the agenda!
Thanks for the spreed sheet along with the explanation of 1.3 factor . I normally would not leave feed back but you definitely take it as far as possible on your modifications and justifying the improvements. Douglas
Thx! I try and capture the thought process, reasoning and considerations vs. just 'sending it', but I think it's too much for a lot of ppl
@@netmagi Thanks for the great video. The loader ram force does increase in direct proportion to the pressure, but... part of that ram force is used to lifter the loader itself. As you increase the pressure, all of the "extra" ram force goes into increasing useful load, since the weight of the loader stays the same. I think that's why the useful (measured) load increases by a higher percentage than the pressure does.
@@yabbut thx, that makes sense.
Best "show" I've seen. I have a B3200 that I installed a larger diameter cylinder and added brackets below the boom to relocated the new cylinders. I also have a 4n1 bucket that I bought from a Bobcat dealer. The bucket was quite heavy. I cut 9" of the front and removed some other bracing to lower the dead weight of the bucket. I always have some counterweight on my quick hitch for stability. I just built a counterweight with a pump pressure tank and misc. iron(mostly train rail). I had shied away from increasing the hyd pressure. Again, great detail on the instructions.
As a fellow L2501 owner and small UA-cam channel poster, I appreciate the time involved and the breakdown. Very interesting info. And the 1.3% gain in results. I think you nailed the largest factor is having enough ballast to be safe. Most guys won't have the weight, (and leverage being out away from the tractor distance wise) that the backhoe provides. Just with any machine, I believe seat time will provide the "feel" that is important for safety. Like my L2501, I can feel when I'm pushing certain limits. I do see myself eventually adding this ability. I would add, if you haven't added a rear wheel spacer, I strongly recommend it, I added 3" to each side and it made my tractor "feel" and look like a whole new tractor. I'll be subscribing to your channel, can't wait to see more of your videos. I run some pretty oversized stuff on my L2501, like my 1100lb snow pusher. Lol. RB3772 rear blade (same one "Outdoor with the Morgan's run on his 55hp) and my 68" rear snow blower meant for a 35hp. If your curious, check out a few on my videos. Great work and I do soooooo appreciate the time put in.
appreciate the response, but not sure where you are seeing 1.3% gain. It's ~21%. See the chart at 46:46: ua-cam.com/video/b_mvKc9g1q8/v-deo.html
I watched your vid with that huge snow pusher before picking mine up. Gave me confidence that I would be ok with a 6' model weighing in @ ~550lbs
Very interesting! Thank you for taking the time to collect all the data on this.
Glad you enjoyed it! I found it quite interesting as well.
Great vent blocking tip! Messicks has a good video about hydraulic spike pressures. Getting crazy on the implements is more damaging to the system.
Next, need a gas tank is near full beeper. 😩
Thanks for doing the research here. I was very interested in seeing the differences just the way you showed it!
Was fun doing it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the information!
I believe kubota regulates lift capacity for safety reasons….without bias im sure the tractor would donkey over ! Great video …I did this to my tractor and made a big difference
Tractor shopping.
Super helpful !
I subscribed. !
Thanks for your time
Looking for a L3901 or bobcat 2040. Both 40 hp. For tree service, land clearing and landscape.
Very interested in removing dpf ! I've heard- you can just remove the filter and run it.. like to know for sure
Thanks for the sub!
Bought a bobcat CT 4045 SST (manual transmission).
Only got 11 hours on it so far..bit I LOVE IT ! ! !
exactly what I need.
Hey buddy, I just saw a post on Facebook that made me think of this video. A guy had issues with his lifting on a L3901. He had the dealer come to his place, do a test and then shimmed him to 2700psi and documented the trip and work.
He loves the lifting power now. I was surprised a dealer would go that high and "document" it to save the warranty I guess?? I'm interested in your thoughts.
Brand new l2501. My pressure is 2075 psi stock. Mine had two .4 and two .2 shims it looked like. I added a .4 and a .2 and now I’m at 2400 even with the same winters gauge. I have no way of testing weight lifting. I know I easily lifted 1250lbs in the bucket before. My only seat of the pants test will be with a extremely full bucket heaped with moist 22a gravel. Stock it would lift but you could tell that was just about it.
Get RimGuard in those rear tires! (if you haven't yet) You will not regret it! Better stability, traction and helps tractor stay planted when using backhoe.
I considered it, but the BH does a good job counterbalancing whatever I lift, and I don't want the overall machine to weigh any more. Aside from when it's real wet and soft in the winter, I can go pretty much anywhere in my yard without leaving ruts/tread marks and I really like that.
@@netmagi Totally understand on that rut making.
Just in case you ever find you do need to fill the tires, I have a B2650 (which is lighter than the L) tires filled RimGuard and have the B77 as well. I have found even with the yard wet (not saturated) lm not leaving any ruts. Just for reference to give you some idea. 👍
Awesome walkthrough on how to add shims! How has it performed since? Any issues with the higher pressure? Thanks for sharing!
Thx, and welcome. Been sub'd on your channel for a while. Thx for all the vids. ZERO issues with the higher pressure. Everything is designed to handle well over stock pump PSI due to pressures created even if the tractor was off and weight was being applied at the loader pivot, up to the amt that would cause it to tip forward. In theory, you'd have to the chain the rear down to the ground and exceed the tipping weight at the loader pivot to cause damage. I think Kubota tends to just set the PSI at where the tipping point isn't reached over a few inches of lift with no counterweight for safety. Most industrial machines are set high enough to reach tipping point, as the hydraulic lines/controls have to support that pressure anyway. One exception would be the pump, as you're driving it 'harder' with a higher setting, but there doesn't seem to be any documented cases of people wearing them out any faster, and we don't know what it's *really* rated for. Obviously the more weight you have at the front pivot (with or without a PSI change) the faster any pins or other moving parts will wear in daily use.
Great video.
Can u do a video for the backhoe to increase the pressure so it digs more and faster.. ty
I always ask the same question by doing that do you void the warranty? Because that ain't the way it came from the factory
Great video series on the L2501! Thank you! The engine improvements is an outstanding project. I’m disappointed with Kubota for producing a tractor that pumps out so much soot. Almost criminal.
You can bet the hydraulics are set to keep you from flipping it over in most situations, not necessarily what the frame will take, that said if you are going to do this sort of thing, use a spotter to make sure you are not lifting wheels or getting unstable. plus since you have the counter weight of a backhoe, you may actually have far exceeded the lift capacity of a bar tractor with the same bucket. Not saying this is a bad idea, just saying watch those rear tires when you are doing this
The links for shims do not produce the shims you mentioned. Could you send current links for the shims?
updated the links
hey man great vid and sub'd! how's the l2501 D1703 engine mod vid coming along? im gonna get my bro n law to help with this and the D1703 tuning mod when him comes down for the holidays. im jonesing man... BOLO!
btw im tractorX on OTT.
Thanks for the sub. I'm working on editing the D1703/L2501 vid and the last part of the mower fix vid now
Good info and thanks for posting. One note though. I've never used a digital micrometer, only the good old fashioned vernier units, but I assume they work the same. If not, I'll stand corrected. Use the large barrel to measure the thickness, not the small one on the end. That is used to adjust the "feel" so the operator can be consistent when measuring. Some will want to "clamp" a little harder than others. Yeah, yeah, not a C-Clamp!
The small barrel on a modern micrometer isn't used to adjust the tension, it works instead like a mechanical slip clutch ensuring all operators apply the same force.
I know you said you the back end did not lift on you with the increased lift capacity. Since that was a static test, I am curious if the increased load while moving makes any difference. I have a backhoe too and they make an awesome ballast. weight.
You are definitely an engineer! Lol
Does the kubota manual give you a stock preasure range?
I guess you need to speak up, provide close caption or wear a mic. Overall good info, however I'm trying to locate the relief valve on the B7800 to bump up the grunt and all the vids on YT are of BX and L series units. I'll have to dig into a hydraulic parts diagram to try and locate it's where abouts. Thanks for sharing!
I'm sure you said it, but I must have missed it. How much total shim stack did you end up adding?? Great info, thanks!
I don't recall, but it will vary a bit from tractor to tractor. I would strongly advise measuring pressure before and after. The shims are cheap. I would just pickup a small assortment. The shipping will probably be more than the shims.
what shims did you add beside stock ones ?
Would like to know if this upgrade would affect a power beyond loop I installed for my backhoe? Backhoe schematic shows a 2175 psi at inlet.
I believe the BH has it's own relief
How many lbs are those hoses retap for and how many lbs are those cylinder seals rated for? You have to consider internal parts as well.
All significantly above this. Why?: Due to the pressures created when stopping a falling load. Basically, everything is sized to accommodate AT LEAST the pressure created to cause a machine to tip forward with the max rated weight on the 3-pt as ballast.
If you did only the hydraulic pump shims without the engine fuel pump shims would you have gotten the same results?
yes
@@netmagi where did you get your shims from for the hydraulic pump?
@@bjl1226 Messick's
Nice
awesome, ! question how did you raise RPMs ? thank you
There's a throttle-limit bolt on the right side of the engine under the black side cover. Move the throttle while watching that side and you can see the bolt that stops it. I would recommend setting to ~2700rpms. I rarely rev the machine that high, I'm usually between 1800 and 2500 rpms's, but it's good to have it there when you need it.
@@netmagi thank you, thank you for the fantastic video
@@netmagi Any way to do a video on changing the rev limiter?
Is that a factory front wheel / tire combo
Yes
@@netmagi what size is the tire?
Wont doing this void the warranty?
Possibly. They would have to prove your adjustment is what caused the issue. For example, if your seat safety switch fails, they're going to have a tough time saying you voided warranty on seat by increasing hydraulic pressure. . . If your loader, valving, or pump fails. . yeah, you're on your own. BOTTOM LINE: I would recommend waiting till the warranty is up before making any major changes/adjustments to your tractor. I may not if I needed the performance, but that's on each owner to make that call and take responsibility for their actions. In my case, the warranty was up almost a year ago.
What forks please?
Titan
L2501 has a max 1,920 lifting capacity.
It’s rated for 1150# or so…..not sure where your getting 1920# specs?
that's the 3-pt hitch (on the back)
What are you going to say when someone starts blowing hoses and seals from over loading?
Freedom to make changes & adjustments comes with risk. The intent of this video is to help people understand how the system works, the limitations, and other factors to consider towards assessing that risk. This video isn't for everybody, and everyone needs to take personal responsibility for their own actions.
They'll learn real quick to not be stupid and do more than the equipment is capable of. Stupid is expensive.
Let's ban UA-cam? Lol snowflake
When the tractor tips, you know you went too far.
where do i order washers
Messick's Equipment has them online
Is yours a hst model
yes
Commercial happy
That loader says 1100 pounds. U got a lot out of it. Right?
Yes, and remember, that 1100 lb rating is at the pins. I'm measuring ~28" forward of the pins (24" + fork frame)
So this means that you can 30/35 lbs more right?
~21% increase in lift capacity. Way more than 30-35 lbs. It's hundreds of lbs. See the chart at 46:46: ua-cam.com/video/b_mvKc9g1q8/v-deo.html
@@netmagi my stock pressure was almost 2100 psi…..bumped it to just over 2500 psi…big difference in lift capacity ….
Should be safe imo ….I mean the hoses are rated to 3000 psi.
A kioti will lift nearly twice as much without any modification. Research before you buy. Not after.
While I usually try not to feed the trolls, this is straight up misinformation. The Kioti comparable loader, the KL4030 lifts 1,835lbs from the pins @ just under 60" lift height. The LA525 lifts 1,803 lbs at the same height, at the same PSI setting, or 1,490lbs at factory PSI. Even factory PSI vs. factory PSI, that's a difference of less than 25%, not 100% (or twice as much) like you claim. Kioti likes to lead with their 60" number (1,835lbs), while Kubota leads with their lift capacity at FULL HEIGHT, 95" (1,082lbs). Don't get tricked by the marketing folks at Kioti that are banking on folks making this same mistake when comparing.
@@netmagi You get a gold star for this response.
In hydraulics the PSI, Cyl size, and where it is placed on the lever arm are ALL that matters. In the case of loaders, all about in the same configuration.
You can't beat physics.
Yea but this tractor will continue to run trouble free. Good luck doing that with a Kioti…
I’m not being mean but Titan attachments are cheap made in China junk! Public service announcement.
Tend to agree with you in general, and their fork frames probably wouldn’t hold up on a skid steer, but on an L-series tractor, their fork frames are a good match and economical.
@@netmagi I recommend Land Pride or MDS. Your fellow American workers will thank you. 🇺🇸
@@StubProductions I do as well. This one came with the tractor from the previous owner.
@@netmagi thank you for the videos!! 🙏👍