Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
This is exactly what I was looking for. Answered every question that I have. I will be running my vacuum next weekend. I have done this before but been so long I was unsure of the steps. Thanks again. Great tutorial. I also love that there was no extra fluff involved.
It's more advisable to use a micron gauge than the manifold gauge to pull a vacuum. The latter does not have the pressure unit resolution required for a deep vacuum.
Yes Steve! I have used this one because of Bluetooth capabilities..... amzn.to/2ZX10ta The video demo was to show a DIYer that does not have one. Typically, 20 minutes of the gauges not moving after the vacuum pull is equivalent to a tight lineset.
A vacuum test is two-fold... to clear the system of any foreign matter, and to double check your system for leaks. Think of it like a nail in a hole... if you use vacuum, the nail will be suctioned into to hole ander pressure and create a better seal. If pressure is applied frome the inside, the nail will leak. A/C systems operate at pressure, NOT vacuum. Mini-splits operate at 450 psi on average. So, pressure testing is going to need to be at at least 150-200 psi. That's more than an air compressor can handle. The pressure test doesn't need to be nitrogen. It can be any inert gas. I use my oxygen bottle from my oxy/fuel torch. Lowe's sells a (1/4 flr x 1/4 mip) half union for just over $2 that will hook up to your 1/4" vacuum line. So, if you have an oxy/fuel setup, or know someone who has one, it's very cheap and easy to pressure check your system first. Just pressurize to 150-200 psi, put some dish soap on the connections with a brush, then wait and check for bubbles. Tighten as needed. Then vacuum the system and introduce refrigerant. And you should be introducing refrigerant before disconnecting the blue line. You will lose a minimal amount of refrigerant, but the pressure will keep foreign matter from entering the system. If you disconnect the blue line before releasing th refrigerant charge, that split second that the Schrader valve is open will allow foreign matter into the system because the system is under a vacuum and trying to equalize with the outside atmosphere. If you disconnect the blue line first, you'll have to vacuum again.
I'm curious. What about using a high pressure air gun hand pump to put regular air in (such hand pumps go to ~5000 psi and only cost around $50)? Regular air consists of ~78% nitrogen, ~20% oxygen, and the rest is carbon dioxide and argon. If many use nitrogen, you suggest oxygen, and you also suggest that any inert gas will do (which includes argon and carbon dioxide, at least within the context here), then why can't regular air be used? Isn't whatever gas(es) used vacuumed out afterward anyway?
Don't forget to shut the valves on the manifold before you shut the pump off. Why well because I once didn't do that and I sucked mineral oil from the vacuum pump back into the auto AC system I just got done replacing everything on. I had to completely disassemble and flush it all out replace the oil in the compressor. I have a really old vacuum pump from the 80's it was a good one back then just old maybe newer pumps have a way to keep the mineral oil from being sucked up. Once you turn off the pump now the system is at a vacuum and will suck back though the pump.
Thanks for your great explanation. Are you pulling a vacuum with the high and low side valves closed? If the low side valve is closed then how does the vacuum reach the lines? Does it bypass the closed valve? In other words, does closing the low side valve just seal the unit from the low side line while the Schroeder valve still can access the line?
Yes. You are vacuuming the lines, not the unit. The valves keep the refrigerant sealed inside the unit until the lines are vacuumed, then the valves are opened one at a time to release the refrigerant into the lines. No valves are touched on the unit while vacuuming.
I just figured out how to see if my Schrader valvenis engaged, all I did was crack open the low side in front of the valve and low an behold the neg pressure went up. Ok good. I'm neg Vacuum again, pinned at 30 and will wait for a good hour or 2 vacuum just to try & get any moisture out, then let it hold over night. If pressure is good on the morning, o release the gas and STOP SWEATING!! HA! Thanks for the video!
By releasing the refrigerant with the manifold still connected, wouldn't the blue hose fill up with refrigerant? Are you saying this is a negligible amount of wasted refrigerant? Would it be worth getting a small shutoff valve to put right by the service port? Thanks for the great video!
Thanks. How about releasing only a very small of refrigerant until the pressure in the gauge crosses into the positive, then stop the flow of refrigerant, disconnect manifold, then release the full amount of refrigerant. Would this be a valid strategy to minimize the amount of wasted refrigerant?
In which case is the charge side common for both low/high pressure ... and if so, if low/high pressure valves are open wouldn't the pressure equalize through the charge side?
My vacuum isn't reaching 30 in hg. It's like at -20 in hg. I'm in Santa ana that's supposed to be around sea level and I should expect -30 in hg. Is the vacuum just not strong enough? Or is the dial just out of calibration? Does it matter if it's not low enough but doesn't leak is that ok?
In my opinion, not a professional but it it is stable and not leaking your good. Let it sit for awhile to make sure. Actually what did you end up doing?
Hard to spend money on a micron gauge when we install only 1 or 2 every 5 years . Last one I installed was 10 years ago and this next year I will install and other . I debated but not doing it every day we can just wing it . If it doesn't chow any leakage
First Thank you for the video. I am a DIYer in the South Pacific in the middle of No where! I guess I am now the chief HVAC guy, God help me! Ha. 2 question's 1 Unfortunately I cant get any Nog any time soon , like 4 to 6 months, so i used the slightest amount of wd40 on my threads and back of flare only. Also no torque wrench either, I just snuged it, went 1/4" past, loosened then tightened again. Doesnt seem to be leaking. So question is when I have done my vacuum test & i pulled a -30 quite quickly (16ft of line) , and it has stayed there for 25 minutes or so, But How do I know that my adapter to the Ac unit is depressing that shrader valve? I cant waste any gas to positive test as it is not in this country.... any other way to tell? 2:
Also, it is not Freon. Freon is banned for some decades already. But still even modern refrigerant that are used today, I guess are not allowed to be released to atmosphere. Of course as Scott said, small puffs may happen during disconnecting from lines and you cannot avoid it.
@@sinistarxx my guess is that it's a vacuumed line now so the moment you pull the gauge line off, gas /air pressure will go into the lines first. But if you release the refrigerant first.. the line will be filled with refrigerant and once you release the gauge line, refrigerant will force out vs air coming in the vacuum. The amount of refrigerant you lose during this situation is negligible. In our case, our minisplit is filled with enough refrigerant to accommodate a 25ft line whereas we'll be only use a 16ft line so we can definitely lose a lot more refrigerant!
Yes. Machine is off. Technically the electrical doesnt even need to be connected yet. This is just to make sure that there is no air or moisture in the line and also that there are no leaks. If the pressure were to rise you either have a lot of moisture in the the line or there is a leak at one of your connection points and air is getting in to the the line.
Most of the other videos I've watched instructed to remove the shader valve from the condenser before vacuuming. I'm assuming you did not do that here, otherwise it would seem that coolant would be lost when removing the vacuum hose?
I like yr video!..but I wish you would of started from connecting the manifold hoses and opening/ closing the service valves...thats where Im confused...how to start the vacume prosess from Zero...help me out..please..
The red valve is high pressure side, blue is low pressure side. You would use them both if you're checking the running pressures on a refrigeration unit to determine if it's properly charged.
I have to leak in my system, and I have to make a new flare. Do I down pump and put the freon (at least what's left) back inside the unit, close the service ports? Or do I just run the vacuum pump to take it all out (with service ports open)?
Hi there right at the end you did not disconnect the blue hose , when you disconnect it ,are you going to loose refrigerant since the refrigerant was already released ? THANK YOU.
I tried this, it works. Please don't do what I did and unscrew the blue line from the adaptor, make sure you unscrew the adaptor from the condenser. I lost a bunch of refrigerant and now have to get somebody to come out and add refrigerant.
@@SaveGreenHere I disconnected the hose from the adaptor, so the valve stem thingy on the compressor stayed pushed in and let a bunch of oil and refrigerant out... Speed wouldn't have mattered, I was just dumb. Caused my own problem. I can't believe I did that. I'm waiting for a hvac place to come out and add 410a back in now while I heat the shop with a 240v elec forced air heater. $$$$
The right procedure here is to release small amount of refrigerant into system (so that it only reaches 2-5 psi) from the high side port and then shut it off. Then remove the manifold gage line. Only minuscule amount of refrigerant gas should escape.
You have to pump it down to get the refrigerant out of the lines and back into the outdoor unit, close them off and then vacuum the lines. If you don't vacuum it water (in the air) gets in and eventually your compressor won't be able to work properly. Instead of your unit lasting 15 years it will last maybe a few instead.
Where do I get that adapter you glazed over so quickly. You said it was important but you didn't go any further about what it is, where to get one etc. Does it come with the manifold gauges? Thank you
How crucial is a digital micron gauge verses analog? My installation instructions give pressure specifications for vacuuming in microns but I'm wondering if there's a way to calculate the conversion so i can use the gauges
Well, when the video was filmed, they were super expensive, but they have come down a bit, and are really the best way to ensure a few vacuum 100%. This one is a solid one...... amzn.to/3YqQWaP
What kind of oil for the vacumm pump did you use ? I bought the same pump that u got , but it didn't come with oil , manual says that I need HFV32 but nobody has it or heard of it Thanks
Pump n gauges arrived today Hooked up ,ran 15 mins My question gauge never went under zero during running stage , Is this ok ? Or needs to go below zero?
@@gazd4812 Yes, you open the blue knob/hose before turning pump on, run pump for 15 minutes, turn off blue knob/hose and yurn off pump aswell. Wait 15 minutes and check blue gauge to see if it stayed at minus 30 or whatever minus pressure your unit instructions say. If stays the same then open refrigerant on both copper lines and at the end remove blue hose from ac.
Yes, use this tool, and check particularly the screw connections on the condenser unit, and on the indoor unit........... amzn.to/4cio76j It is simple, and effective for basic detection. If you prefer a professional tool, this is what pros use..... amzn.to/3Vfythe
Hello. Excellent video. When it comes to releasing the gas into the system, does it make a big difference if the low line is opened first? I'm not sure if I did that or not. I appreciate your response. Thank you.
Not really. The system is going to balance out so that the pressure is balance on both the low and high side. Just dont open one side all the way and not the other. Slowly release. You could possible slam the TXV or metering device open or closed.
Wish there was more to the video regarding how to take the line off. I tighten my blue line too much and assumed it was pressure coming off when unscrewing it. I closed it back up but I'm afraid of trying again and losing too much refrigerant =|
Read Read Read. The video description has all the links of everything, including the adaptor. Anyway, here it is...... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN
I lost all the pressure and my mini-split lines does vacuuming create pressure order the pump actually creates the pressure to put the refrigerant through cuz I'm not getting nothing it barely wants to run out back
The link is in the video description, if you go there. Has been there since day one, lol. Anyway, here it is..... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN
Is the red valve just shut off in your video? I see you have that hose looped. Do I just open the blue low know then run my pump? Thanks! Great video explanation.😂
Red valve shut, and red hose, looped as shown in the video. The blue valve has to be open while running the pump, otherwise you cannot perform a proper vacuum, and get the moisture out. So open the valve, and turn the pump on. Run pump for 20 minutes just to make sure. Follow the rest of the steps on the video after running the pump.
So It holds negative 30 with pump on but gauge goes to zero slowly when it's off, guessing it's a leak? . Any tips to trouble shoot / what do I do from here?
@@SaveGreenHere hey man thanks for the prompt reply. Went back and checked the fittings and that ended up being the problem. Thanks so much for the video too it was super helpful
hello very nice channel very useful thank you for good useful shares i have a question i want to work with the air conditioner compressor externally I connected (+) L directly to c /// I made parallel connection from (-) N to capacitor // R I made a connection from the other leg of the capacitor or fuse blows or the compressor runs for 2 seconds 5/6 seconds stops and rings again for 2 seconds and it gets very hot.
Yes. You will have pressure on the system from the released refrigerant at that point. If you take the hose off while under vacuum you 'break' the vacuum and air/moisture will rush in.
I have a 3 head unit I just hooked up it says on the outdoor unit only vacuum 1 port. Does that mean only put vacuum to one line? I was thinking I'd have to vacuum all 3 line sets separately but when I saw that I wasn't sure. Thanks
@@SaveGreenHere This is true if you have the blue hose oriented correctly. If your hoses are like mine, the ends with the little extension on them has the nipple inside to engage the schrader valve to press it open while the gauges are hooked up. I just did this process on a new install this week, and when I hooked the hoses up the way you have them in the video, the only vacuum I was pulling was between the gauges and the service port schrader valve. If the schrader valve isn't getting engaged, you're not pumping down your line set, you're only pumping down the blue hose. Also, to anyone else installing one of these, if you cheap out on the gauges, make sure you at least buy a decent adaptor separately for the mini split connection. The cheap gauges I bought included the adapter, and it was garbage and leaked like a sieve.
@@SaveGreenHere Maybe I just don’t understand… Does this fill my vacuum line that is blue with refrigerant? Or is there some sort of magical thing happening at the valve that stops it from entering the vacuum line? I absolutely will do this exactly as you’ve shown, I’m just trying to wrap my brain around it.
Can these steps be done to remove air in an already installed and once working system? Refridergerent would already be in the pipes. The steps in your video were not done on installation of a system years ago.
So I would say no. If you have a system installed and refrigerant in the lines and you want to remove the 'air' that was trapped in the system since install or that somehow got into the system from a leak point no. You would need to RECOVER all the refrigerant from the system. Then vacuum and recharge with NEW refrigerant. Any refrigerant mixed with air or moisture is trash. If you are swapping out a condenser with and keeping the original lines and head unit then yes. Connect new condenser. Vacuum. Confirm no leaks. And release precharged refrigerant from new condenser.
so at the end, after you opened the high pressure valve on the AC (and before opening the low pressure valve), did you check if your blue gauge reading went up? per my AC installation instructions, it suppose to, but it never did. so i have the sense that i only vacuumed the hose to the AC and not the whole line.(i think my valve core never opened, to let the air escape). the AC still works, but i guess i shortened its life significantly. :(
I had the same problem - had to remove part of the valve from the adapter........ I managed to waste enough 421a that I needed to buy some more to refill
@@coscarart Same thing here - but I realized the low pressure hose was just backwards - one end has a pin to fit the schrader valve that's on the adapter, after I had already removed the valve core from it.
I couldn't find nylog so I used a paste on the "threads ONLY" NOT on the flare, so the flare is bare of any product. I know how to tighten a flare correctly. I pulled a vac in 2 minutes, and it holds for 30 min. -- Do I need to disassemble use nylog, and vac for 15 min (even if it reads -30 in two min)? >>> ALSO, I have a 4 way manifold with a black knob in front and blue on the left. I assume the red hose is just insurance. PS: great vid!
Can you test or check for a leak using vaccume pump ? Or does it need to be pressurized? Got leak in mini split. Need to find leak 1st to fix it before recharging unit.
Meaning will like a soap solution create bubbles to show you where leak is at with vaccume ? Or it has to be pressure to cause soap to bubble ? Thank you
@@SaveGreenHere thanks for responding. I will do the soap & water mixture test. Wasn't sure if a vaccume would cause bubbles though. Appreciate your time & video's!
You do the soap bubble test while the refrigerant is in in, NOT while under a vacuum. But while under vacuum, you can check that your gauge needle is steady and not moving. However the BEST APPROACH is a micron gauge...... amzn.to/3wvn2VK
@@chriscol6771 vacuum will not cause bubbles. The system must be under pressure to identify a leak with the bubble test. leaks under vacuum you will just have to reseat your connections and hope to hold the vacuum after adjustments.
My first mini-split install when smooth. My 2nd is a mess. Brand new unit, no refrigerant released, yet. While using the vac, gauge doesn't even get down to -30. Once vacuum is im turned off, immediately goes back to 0. Sprayed w/ windex for leaks around joints, nothing. What next or what's a better way to find a leak when I haven't introduced refrigerant to the system?
You're putting a vacuum on it, not pressurizing it, so you won't get bubbles when you spray it. If you can somehow pressurize it then you should find leaks that way, otherwise make sure you didn't leave a connection loose... Did you put Nylog blue on the flares? I haven't installed a mini split yet, but I'm researching it and read that factory flares tend to leak, but Nylog blue will help them to seal.
I would also recommend using a torque wrench when you make your connections. Most people dont but there is a reason it is recommended. Too tight OR too loose is bad. As a service technician this was one of the most common issues with minisplits that eventually stopped working; refrigerant leaks because a torque wrench was not used.
Do the steps with the pump, as shown on the video. Keep an eye on the needle on your gauges. If no movement, as shown on the video, you have NO LEAKS. Simple.
Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Awesome!
This is exactly what I was looking for. Answered every question that I have. I will be running my vacuum next weekend. I have done this before but been so long I was unsure of the steps. Thanks again. Great tutorial. I also love that there was no extra fluff involved.
Fantastic James! Make sure you get the adapters I linked on this video. You definetely need it for a mins split.
@@SaveGreenHere I dont see a link for the adaptor, can you please double check and post?
It is the second one, but here it is.... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN
I don't know why you have likes off Man. Your channel is the best source of simple and to-point step-by-step instructions for DIYs like me. Thank You!
Thank you so much 👍
Making a video exactly 4:10 long was a nice touch. 👌
Thanks for a great explanation of how this is done. You saved me a couple of thousand in installation fees!
Glad it helped!
This video helped me to finally understand-after watching other tutorials and not understanding. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Glad it helped!
It's more advisable to use a micron gauge than the manifold gauge to pull a vacuum. The latter does not have the pressure unit resolution required for a deep vacuum.
Yes Steve! I have used this one because of Bluetooth capabilities..... amzn.to/2ZX10ta The video demo was to show a DIYer that does not have one. Typically, 20 minutes of the gauges not moving after the vacuum pull is equivalent to a tight lineset.
Thank you for posting this video... not complicated to follow as others.... thank you for making this video in plain English...
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for your video. I installed a multi zone system and followed your directions. Worked out perfect, thanks for the education!
Glad it helped
A vacuum test is two-fold... to clear the system of any foreign matter, and to double check your system for leaks.
Think of it like a nail in a hole... if you use vacuum, the nail will be suctioned into to hole ander pressure and create a better seal. If pressure is applied frome the inside, the nail will leak.
A/C systems operate at pressure, NOT vacuum.
Mini-splits operate at 450 psi on average. So, pressure testing is going to need to be at at least 150-200 psi. That's more than an air compressor can handle.
The pressure test doesn't need to be nitrogen. It can be any inert gas. I use my oxygen bottle from my oxy/fuel torch. Lowe's sells a (1/4 flr x 1/4 mip) half union for just over $2 that will hook up to your 1/4" vacuum line.
So, if you have an oxy/fuel setup, or know someone who has one, it's very cheap and easy to pressure check your system first. Just pressurize to 150-200 psi, put some dish soap on the connections with a brush, then wait and check for bubbles. Tighten as needed.
Then vacuum the system and introduce refrigerant.
And you should be introducing refrigerant before disconnecting the blue line. You will lose a minimal amount of refrigerant, but the pressure will keep foreign matter from entering the system. If you disconnect the blue line before releasing th refrigerant charge, that split second that the Schrader valve is open will allow foreign matter into the system because the system is under a vacuum and trying to equalize with the outside atmosphere. If you disconnect the blue line first, you'll have to vacuum again.
Patrick, thanks for adding those points! Much appreciated.
I'm curious. What about using a high pressure air gun hand pump to put regular air in (such hand pumps go to ~5000 psi and only cost around $50)? Regular air consists of ~78% nitrogen, ~20% oxygen, and the rest is carbon dioxide and argon. If many use nitrogen, you suggest oxygen, and you also suggest that any inert gas will do (which includes argon and carbon dioxide, at least within the context here), then why can't regular air be used? Isn't whatever gas(es) used vacuumed out afterward anyway?
@@AEMBowers just do the soap and water test while its runnig. if no bubbles, no leaks
You do you.. lol
The instructions with my pump where not very good, this video made it so much easier
Thanks for the help, we now have lovely cool AC
Thank you!
Don't forget to shut the valves on the manifold before you shut the pump off. Why well because I once didn't do that and I sucked mineral oil from the vacuum pump back into the auto AC system I just got done replacing everything on. I had to completely disassemble and flush it all out replace the oil in the compressor. I have a really old vacuum pump from the 80's it was a good one back then just old maybe newer pumps have a way to keep the mineral oil from being sucked up. Once you turn off the pump now the system is at a vacuum and will suck back though the pump.
Awesome video man, to the point not BS - Thanks, Nick from Arizona
Appreciate it!
Thanks for your great explanation.
Are you pulling a vacuum with the high and low side valves closed?
If the low side valve is closed then how does the vacuum reach the lines? Does it bypass the closed valve?
In other words, does closing the low side valve just seal the unit from the low side line while the Schroeder valve still can access the line?
Yes. You are vacuuming the lines, not the unit. The valves keep the refrigerant sealed inside the unit until the lines are vacuumed, then the valves are opened one at a time to release the refrigerant into the lines. No valves are touched on the unit while vacuuming.
I just figured out how to see if my Schrader valvenis engaged, all I did was crack open the low side in front of the valve and low an behold the neg pressure went up. Ok good.
I'm neg Vacuum again, pinned at 30 and will wait for a good hour or 2 vacuum just to try & get any moisture out, then let it hold over night. If pressure is good on the morning, o release the gas and STOP SWEATING!!
HA! Thanks for the video!
Piece of cake stop sweating.. 😂
thank you: Straight to the point, understanding it and will make my Decommission/install easier with confidence. appreciate the showing.
Thanks!
So then I just leave the blue hose on there forever?
No you do not leave it on forever
You have to find another video that shows how to remove the blue house without letting all the gas out.
It’s like a bike tire. Remove it fast and your done
I prefer the hoses with the quick disconnect fittings on them. No frostbite. Or even the ones with ball valves
@@kevinkubed7683but where can we find it? I’m trying to find a 5/16 to quick connect style that you find on cars
I woulfd use a micron guage with the vaccuum. You want to make sure you dont have moisture or air
Are you using a digital one? I am using this one for a few years now and works great! amzn.to/319FFSg
Best video I’ve seen. I’ll be up and running today
Awesome!
Thanks for keeping this simple and straight forward
YOU ARE WELCOME!
Is the process the same for a multi zone unit? I'm installing an Alpine 4 zone Hyper-Heat
Great instruction. Simple, easy to follow, and helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
By releasing the refrigerant with the manifold still connected, wouldn't the blue hose fill up with refrigerant? Are you saying this is a negligible amount of wasted refrigerant? Would it be worth getting a small shutoff valve to put right by the service port? Thanks for the great video!
Yes, you can get something like this..... amzn.to/2Tc4nxn
@@SaveGreenHere Yes, it is a negligible amount, or yes you should get the shut off valve?
Yes, as get the shut off valve
Thanks. How about releasing only a very small of refrigerant until the pressure in the gauge crosses into the positive, then stop the flow of refrigerant, disconnect manifold, then release the full amount of refrigerant. Would this be a valid strategy to minimize the amount of wasted refrigerant?
Great video brother. Its the best how to for this job on the Tube. Thanks man!
Glad to help
How do you isolate the refrigerant into the outdoor unit before this procedure is done? I can't find any videos from anyone on that. Thanks!
Outdoor units already come with refrigerant inside the compressor.
Great video man. Clear and to the point. This helped me a lot installing my mini split unit!
Glad it helped!
Big Thank You for this video. Huge help for nubbie installation. Appreciate you.
You're welcome!
I may be wrong but if you close the valve after turning off the pump your no longer hooked to the system you won't know if it leaks down or not.
The gague reads the line side, not the charge side. When you shut the valve, it only shuts off the charge side.
In which case is the charge side common for both low/high pressure ... and if so, if low/high pressure valves are open wouldn't the pressure equalize through the charge side?
My vacuum isn't reaching 30 in hg. It's like at -20 in hg. I'm in Santa ana that's supposed to be around sea level and I should expect -30 in hg. Is the vacuum just not strong enough? Or is the dial just out of calibration? Does it matter if it's not low enough but doesn't leak is that ok?
That’s because you have a leak in your line sets
In my opinion, not a professional but it it is stable and not leaking your good. Let it sit for awhile to make sure.
Actually what did you end up doing?
yes how did it go? was -20 psi good enough?
Get a micron gauge and run the system until you are under 500 microns
Yes, this is the one we use..... amzn.to/3sDrx1F
Hard to spend money on a micron gauge when we install only 1 or 2 every 5 years . Last one I installed was 10 years ago and this next year I will install and other . I debated but not doing it every day we can just wing it . If it doesn't chow any leakage
What if it is a previously owned system with no refrigerant in it? What additional steps are required?
Do a proper full vacuum! You MUST use this....... amzn.to/3VUYVNh
@@SaveGreenHere how about the VG64?
Thank you blowing nice and cold in the RV
Our pleasure!
Thanks for mentioning the oil needed for the pump. Had no idea
Yes, just as mentioned on the vid, and don't forget to bleed any air out of the line, and you will be ok.
Basic question , so this valve is one way meaning once we put vacuum we do not need to do anything ? Just disconnect the pump ?
First Thank you for the video. I am a DIYer in the South Pacific in the middle of No where! I guess I am now the chief HVAC guy, God help me! Ha. 2 question's
1 Unfortunately I cant get any Nog any time soon , like 4 to 6 months, so i used the slightest amount of wd40 on my threads and back of flare only. Also no torque wrench either, I just snuged it, went 1/4" past, loosened then tightened again.
Doesnt seem to be leaking.
So question is when I have done my vacuum test & i pulled a -30 quite quickly (16ft of line) , and it has stayed there for 25 minutes or so,
But How do I know that my adapter to the Ac unit is depressing that shrader valve?
I cant waste any gas to positive test as it is not in this country.... any other way to tell?
2:
very simple and to the point, thanks.
You're welcome!
Question: Since you released the refrigerant into the system before removing gauges, won't freon leak from system once you remove gauges?
Scott it's a small amount. It happens when you take the gauges off after checking pressures. Just pull the gauges off at the connections swiftly.
Also, it is not Freon. Freon is banned for some decades already. But still even modern refrigerant that are used today, I guess are not allowed to be released to atmosphere. Of course as Scott said, small puffs may happen during disconnecting from lines and you cannot avoid it.
@@SaveGreenHere Is there a reason why you can't just pull the gauge line off of the service port before releasing the refrigerant?
@@sinistarxx my guess is that it's a vacuumed line now so the moment you pull the gauge line off, gas /air pressure will go into the lines first. But if you release the refrigerant first.. the line will be filled with refrigerant and once you release the gauge line, refrigerant will force out vs air coming in the vacuum. The amount of refrigerant you lose during this situation is negligible. In our case, our minisplit is filled with enough refrigerant to accommodate a 25ft line whereas we'll be only use a 16ft line so we can definitely lose a lot more refrigerant!
The questions in the comment section has me curious. How did some of you make it this far in life?
🤷♂️
I assume the AC unit is off while test is being conducted ?
Yes. Machine is off. Technically the electrical doesnt even need to be connected yet. This is just to make sure that there is no air or moisture in the line and also that there are no leaks. If the pressure were to rise you either have a lot of moisture in the the line or there is a leak at one of your connection points and air is getting in to the the line.
Most of the other videos I've watched instructed to remove the shader valve from the condenser before vacuuming. I'm assuming you did not do that here, otherwise it would seem that coolant would be lost when removing the vacuum hose?
I cant find an answer to this either
I like yr video!..but I wish you would of started from connecting the manifold hoses and opening/ closing the service valves...thats where Im confused...how to start the vacume prosess from Zero...help me out..please..
Thanks, I can do this now. Simple and straightforward. I will follow exactly.
You're welcome!
Thank you very much this video helped me
Glad it helped
Do you need the red cable, or can you simply close the valve?
Thanks for a clear, concise refresher mate 👍🏼
No problem 👍
Before you hook up to vacuum you have to close the high and low vale s to the mini split???
Do it as shown on the video and you will be fine
They are already closed, the refrigerant is pre-charged in the outdoor unit. You are checking to be sure the lines are all properly sealed.
Thank you for this educational video! Well explained! Very helpful, Great job!
Glad you enjoyed it!
What's the purpose of the red valve. When do you open it and when do you close it?
Nothing in this case. You need two gauges when working on car AC.
The red valve is high pressure side, blue is low pressure side. You would use them both if you're checking the running pressures on a refrigeration unit to determine if it's properly charged.
Thanks for the video, I have a dual mini split and I assume that I will have to vacuum both sets of lines? Thanks
Yes you do
I have to leak in my system, and I have to make a new flare. Do I down pump and put the freon (at least what's left) back inside the unit, close the service ports? Or do I just run the vacuum pump to take it all out (with service ports open)?
Great video. Short and simple.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi there right at the end you did not disconnect the blue hose , when you disconnect it ,are you going to loose refrigerant since the refrigerant was already released ? THANK YOU.
Minimal refrigerant goes out, very little.
@@SaveGreenHere .thank you
I tried this, it works. Please don't do what I did and unscrew the blue line from the adaptor, make sure you unscrew the adaptor from the condenser.
I lost a bunch of refrigerant and now have to get somebody to come out and add refrigerant.
You got to go fast on the disconnect.
@@SaveGreenHere I disconnected the hose from the adaptor, so the valve stem thingy on the compressor stayed pushed in and let a bunch of oil and refrigerant out... Speed wouldn't have mattered, I was just dumb.
Caused my own problem. I can't believe I did that.
I'm waiting for a hvac place to come out and add 410a back in now while I heat the shop with a 240v elec forced air heater. $$$$
Can you go into detail what should be done? I've watched two videos now and they both ignore how to remove that adapter from the condenser low port.
😁
The right procedure here is to release small amount of refrigerant into system (so that it only reaches 2-5 psi) from the high side port and then shut it off. Then remove the manifold gage line. Only minuscule amount of refrigerant gas should escape.
Is the low side where you add the refrigerant always on top and the bigger line?
It's always the bigger line. Not always on top.
did you have the low side closed the whole time then release at the end
What is the adaptor at hose end?
i did not vacuum prior to adding the refrigerant, what do I do now? Should I vacuum?
Yes, you need to vacuum as shown on the video.
I did 2 ac and didnt vacuum them and there been running for 2 years no problem! 🤷♂️ im just a diy....
You have to pump it down to get the refrigerant out of the lines and back into the outdoor unit, close them off and then vacuum the lines. If you don't vacuum it water (in the air) gets in and eventually your compressor won't be able to work properly. Instead of your unit lasting 15 years it will last maybe a few instead.
@@porthugiz1 I drove a car with no oil in it and never had a problem.... until the engine blew.
Where do I get that adapter you glazed over so quickly. You said it was important but you didn't go any further about what it is, where to get one etc. Does it come with the manifold gauges? Thank you
I put it on the list of items on this video's description. Here it is anyway..... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN
Also the hoses that connect to the adapter with out the depression piece we should remove those valves where they connect if that makes sense? Thanks
The adaptor piece, yes can be removed when done using.
@@SaveGreenHere Do you remove the adapter after you release the gas? Wouldnt that allow some of it to escape?
How crucial is a digital micron gauge verses analog? My installation instructions give pressure specifications for vacuuming in microns but I'm wondering if there's a way to calculate the conversion so i can use the gauges
Well, when the video was filmed, they were super expensive, but they have come down a bit, and are really the best way to ensure a few vacuum 100%. This one is a solid one...... amzn.to/3YqQWaP
Enjoyed video of mini split HVAC unit.
Thanks 👍
What kind of oil for the vacumm pump did you use ? I bought the same pump that u got , but it didn't come with oil , manual says that I need HFV32 but nobody has it or heard of it
Thanks
They probably do not include it anymore. But it's the V32, and it's this one..... amzn.to/3qbZFuW
Thanks 👍
Pump n gauges arrived today
Hooked up ,ran 15 mins
My question gauge never went under zero during running stage ,
Is this ok ? Or needs to go below zero?
Did you open the blue knob?
So did you open the blue knob?
@@gazd4812 Yes, you open the blue knob/hose before turning pump on, run pump for 15 minutes, turn off blue knob/hose and yurn off pump aswell. Wait 15 minutes and check blue gauge to see if it stayed at minus 30 or whatever minus pressure your unit instructions say. If stays the same then open refrigerant on both copper lines and at the end remove blue hose from ac.
I'm replacing my condenser on my mrcool mini split can i check for leaks before changing it ?
Yes, use this tool, and check particularly the screw connections on the condenser unit, and on the indoor unit........... amzn.to/4cio76j It is simple, and effective for basic detection. If you prefer a professional tool, this is what pros use..... amzn.to/3Vfythe
Or soap bubble all joints where it was brazed at for starters
Hello. Excellent video. When it comes to releasing the gas into the system, does it make a big difference if the low line is opened first? I'm not sure if I did that or not. I appreciate your response. Thank you.
Not really. The system is going to balance out so that the pressure is balance on both the low and high side. Just dont open one side all the way and not the other. Slowly release. You could possible slam the TXV or metering device open or closed.
Do i need 4 way Manometer or is a 2 way fine?
Wish there was more to the video regarding how to take the line off. I tighten my blue line too much and assumed it was pressure coming off when unscrewing it. I closed it back up but I'm afraid of trying again and losing too much refrigerant =|
u have to be quick in the process
@@SaveGreenHere So that quick disconnect -- I need to pull quickly. I should expect even a small bit of escaping refrigerant?
Thanks for the help.
Happy to help
Adapter is important, yet no mention of the Adapter or where to get it
Read Read Read. The video description has all the links of everything, including the adaptor. Anyway, here it is...... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN
5th line down in the description my man
Some just don’t get how you tube works. They are not tech savvy
What would you recommend to use if you used the nylog, triple checked the lines and the gauge needle still moves after vacuum?
Use a spray bottle with 1 tbsp of soap and spray the connections. Check for bubbling. If you see bubbles, you have a leak.
I lost all the pressure and my mini-split lines does vacuuming create pressure order the pump actually creates the pressure to put the refrigerant through cuz I'm not getting nothing it barely wants to run out back
Thanks for posting this very clear explanation, will be my guide in my current mini-split first installation
You are welcome!
You said "make sure you have this adapter" - it would be helpful to know what kind of adapter it is (or a link)
The link is in the video description, if you go there. Has been there since day one, lol. Anyway, here it is..... Adapter for mini split (5/16 to 1/4)... amzn.to/2Ys9qLN
@@SaveGreenHere why is the adapter needed? My hose bolts right up
Would a 3.5cmf dual stage vacuum pump work? I know you recommended a 5cmf
It would work and will take longer, but dual stage is better.
Is the red valve just shut off in your video? I see you have that hose looped. Do I just open the blue low know then run my pump? Thanks! Great video explanation.😂
Red valve shut, and red hose, looped as shown in the video. The blue valve has to be open while running the pump, otherwise you cannot perform a proper vacuum, and get the moisture out. So open the valve, and turn the pump on. Run pump for 20 minutes just to make sure. Follow the rest of the steps on the video after running the pump.
So It holds negative 30 with pump on but gauge goes to zero slowly when it's off, guessing it's a leak? . Any tips to trouble shoot / what do I do from here?
Check if your ends are not tight enough. Did you use Nylog? If not, you are asking for it......... amzn.to/30BBQ5R
@@SaveGreenHere hey man thanks for the prompt reply. Went back and checked the fittings and that ended up being the problem. Thanks so much for the video too it was super helpful
Looking to buy a set of gauges and pump .What do u recommend?
amzn.to/3kyrDP8 but if you look at the video description, there is an economy one there that is listed.
hello very nice channel very useful thank you for good useful shares i have a question i want to work with the air conditioner compressor externally I connected (+) L directly to c /// I made parallel connection from (-) N to capacitor // R I made a connection from the other leg of the capacitor or fuse blows or the compressor runs for 2 seconds 5/6 seconds stops and rings again for 2 seconds and it gets very hot.
So you remove the blue hose after you release the refrigerator?
Yes
@@jamminwrenches860 thanks!!
I had the same thought, but you're better off losing a tiny bit of refrigerant than a bit of humid air getting in the system.
Yes. You will have pressure on the system from the released refrigerant at that point. If you take the hose off while under vacuum you 'break' the vacuum and air/moisture will rush in.
Thanks so much
No problem!
what if you need to pump a dual mini split?
Do you have to vacuum each set of refrigerant lines individually on a multi zone minisplit?
I have one that has 3 lines I did each line . ya I had the same question. also does that mean each line is on its own line inside.?
Should have used a micro gauge but all in all love the video
Yes, we have this one, amzn.to/3AWWz6z but many DIY folks cannot spend the money and the method works, like you mentioned.
I have a 3 head unit I just hooked up it says on the outdoor unit only vacuum 1 port. Does that mean only put vacuum to one line? I was thinking I'd have to vacuum all 3 line sets separately but when I saw that I wasn't sure. Thanks
I have the same question.... any replies? For a multi-zone mini split system? Do we vacuum individually?
Do I need to refrigerant or R410 after vacuum? It's new and just installed.
Systems come pre charged already. But if you ever need 410a, we have the link of the seller on this video description.
Is a shrader valve removal tool nessecary? The kind that holds vaccum when removing, installing?
Don't mess with the schrader valve unless your schrader valve is bad. You don't need the removal tool for vacuuming the air out of the lineset.
@@SaveGreenHere This is true if you have the blue hose oriented correctly. If your hoses are like mine, the ends with the little extension on them has the nipple inside to engage the schrader valve to press it open while the gauges are hooked up. I just did this process on a new install this week, and when I hooked the hoses up the way you have them in the video, the only vacuum I was pulling was between the gauges and the service port schrader valve. If the schrader valve isn't getting engaged, you're not pumping down your line set, you're only pumping down the blue hose.
Also, to anyone else installing one of these, if you cheap out on the gauges, make sure you at least buy a decent adaptor separately for the mini split connection. The cheap gauges I bought included the adapter, and it was garbage and leaked like a sieve.
If i need to vacumm after using the minimsolit. Do i need to recharge my mini split first or vacuum it first? Thank you.
Vacuum to make sure there are no leaks.
this sir was very helpful thank you.
Glad it helped
Do you apply nylog to the service caps ? thanks
Yes I do, just for good measure.
@@SaveGreenHere .thank you
Can you disconnect the blue line from mini split before releasing refrigerant? So you don’t have it come out at all
No because you will introduce air back into the lines as it is under vacuum
NO. If you do, air will enter. Not good.
@@SaveGreenHere Maybe I just don’t understand… Does this fill my vacuum line that is blue with refrigerant? Or is there some sort of magical thing happening at the valve that stops it from entering the vacuum line? I absolutely will do this exactly as you’ve shown, I’m just trying to wrap my brain around it.
Can these steps be done to remove air in an already installed and once working system? Refridergerent would already be in the pipes. The steps in your video were not done on installation of a system years ago.
You mean as a replacement of an older system, yes! Just make sure you vacuum the lines. Thanks for supporting our channel. Please SUBSCRIBE!
So I would say no. If you have a system installed and refrigerant in the lines and you want to remove the 'air' that was trapped in the system since install or that somehow got into the system from a leak point no. You would need to RECOVER all the refrigerant from the system. Then vacuum and recharge with NEW refrigerant. Any refrigerant mixed with air or moisture is trash. If you are swapping out a condenser with and keeping the original lines and head unit then yes. Connect new condenser. Vacuum. Confirm no leaks. And release precharged refrigerant from new condenser.
so at the end, after you opened the high pressure valve on the AC (and before opening the low pressure valve), did you check if your blue gauge reading went up? per my AC installation instructions, it suppose to, but it never did. so i have the sense that i only vacuumed the hose to the AC and not the whole line.(i think my valve core never opened, to let the air escape). the AC still works, but i guess i shortened its life significantly. :(
I had the same problem - had to remove part of the valve from the adapter........ I managed to waste enough 421a that I needed to buy some more to refill
@@coscarart Same thing here - but I realized the low pressure hose was just backwards - one end has a pin to fit the schrader valve that's on the adapter, after I had already removed the valve core from it.
I couldn't find nylog so I used a paste on the "threads ONLY" NOT on the flare, so the flare is bare of any product. I know how to tighten a flare correctly. I pulled a vac in 2 minutes, and it holds for 30 min. -- Do I need to disassemble use nylog, and vac for 15 min (even if it reads -30 in two min)? >>> ALSO, I have a 4 way manifold with a black knob in front and blue on the left. I assume the red hose is just insurance. PS: great vid!
DO NOT put any paste etc on the treads as this will affect the amount of Torque you put on the nuts. You could strip the thread.
Can you test or check for a leak using vaccume pump ? Or does it need to be pressurized? Got leak in mini split. Need to find leak 1st to fix it before recharging unit.
Meaning will like a soap solution create bubbles to show you where leak is at with vaccume ? Or it has to be pressure to cause soap to bubble ? Thank you
Bubbles will be clearly visible if there is a leak, particularly at the connections.
@@SaveGreenHere thanks for responding. I will do the soap & water mixture test. Wasn't sure if a vaccume would cause bubbles though. Appreciate your time & video's!
You do the soap bubble test while the refrigerant is in in, NOT while under a vacuum. But while under vacuum, you can check that your gauge needle is steady and not moving. However the BEST APPROACH is a micron gauge...... amzn.to/3wvn2VK
@@chriscol6771 vacuum will not cause bubbles. The system must be under pressure to identify a leak with the bubble test. leaks under vacuum you will just have to reseat your connections and hope to hold the vacuum after adjustments.
Do you have to use the vacuum on every mini split or just the bottom one?
Yes you need to pull a vacuum.
Why do I need the adapter on a split unit. My hose are the same thread pattern and can bolt right up
Did you verify this?
My first mini-split install when smooth. My 2nd is a mess. Brand new unit, no refrigerant released, yet. While using the vac, gauge doesn't even get down to -30. Once vacuum is im turned off, immediately goes back to 0. Sprayed w/ windex for leaks around joints, nothing. What next or what's a better way to find a leak when I haven't introduced refrigerant to the system?
You're putting a vacuum on it, not pressurizing it, so you won't get bubbles when you spray it. If you can somehow pressurize it then you should find leaks that way, otherwise make sure you didn't leave a connection loose... Did you put Nylog blue on the flares? I haven't installed a mini split yet, but I'm researching it and read that factory flares tend to leak, but Nylog blue will help them to seal.
Correct! Here's the Nylog blue link...... amzn.to/3UUiVhg
Thank you both. I'll check out the Nylog Blue.
I would also recommend using a torque wrench when you make your connections. Most people dont but there is a reason it is recommended. Too tight OR too loose is bad. As a service technician this was one of the most common issues with minisplits that eventually stopped working; refrigerant leaks because a torque wrench was not used.
Must I pressure test the lines? Also, must I vacuum both lines?
Do the steps with the pump, as shown on the video. Keep an eye on the needle on your gauges. If no movement, as shown on the video, you have NO LEAKS. Simple.
@@SaveGreenHere thanks
stupid question. so when you buy a new mini split unit, internally, they already have enough refrigerant to run the system? -- nice video.
Not a stupid question. They do come precharged. However, if the lines are ran over 12 feet, more refrigerant may be required.
Check the product literature, it will tell you (usually) how long a line set the charge is good for.
Mine seems to fit just fine without the adapter.why is the adapter important ? Thank you
Some. MS's have a smaller fitting requiring you to down size with a reducer adapter.