I just wanted to say thank you. I am new to trapping and I fell into the trap (pun intended) of just purchasing a bunch of traps as I go "Thinking I am all set and ready to go come trapping season." Then when it gets hear I start wondering how am I going to anchor these traps so they do not run off with my trap. Next thing I know I am struggling to decide what method I want to use, then of course, not one single store carries any anchors. Now I have to order on line and wait of pieces and parts to come in. Now I am way behind the 8 ball, and prime time is past. I wish all the pro trappers that put out videos would have said what you did. And because I am new and want to understand what I am doing I had to delay in order parts, etc. to make sure I had the correct tools for the job. IE: Cable thickness, ferrells, swivels, etc. etc. I wish the stores would take note. If you want to promote the trapping sport to the younger person, and just have traps at the store and send them on their way, they will not do it very long. Not one store in my area has proper anchors, but they sure do sell traps. Hardware stores do not carry the proper cable wire, and no ferrels, locks, swivels, etc. at the same store. I could go on but as you can see the frustration I am feeling now. You are spot on. Love your videos and very educational. The hard work you put into making them shows in the quality of your work. Peace, Mo
What are your thoughts on using a cable with a loop on the end for your dogproofs? And just putting the trap through the loop around the base of a tree? Thinking about trying that this season
50 years ago the most popular stake was a 3/8 steel rod with a broad head welded on the bottom. It was about 16 inches long and, if I remember correctly, it had an s-hook acting as a swivel. In 20 years of trapping the Adirondacks, I never lost one???
I wouldn't say its necessary, but has its benefits. The main point of a deflector rod is to keep your chain from getting hung up on or around the drag. Some drags are made with a flat top, which seems to leave little opportunity for it to hand up but some drags are made out of bent rod and have a nice little V that the chain could easily slip into and get hung up. Truthfully I've never really used drags so I can't say from experience but seems like it would be a good thing to have but not an absolute necessity.
Absolutely, just need to make sure you are using the appropriate size for your ground, if you're in soft sandy ground you probably want to use 2 stakes and cross stake them. In firm ground using a single rebar stake with a couple feet of trap chain should work just fine
Typically with rebar longer chain is recommended, unless you're cross staking in hard ground. The reason being if you're single staking with short chain, the short chain doesn't give the coyote alot of options for pulling so there is a good chance he may pull straight up, which depending on ground conditions could pull the stake up slightly. If that happens the swivel then slides back down to ground level when he lets up and if he continues doing that the stake slowly gets "jacked" up and out of the ground and you lose your coyote, trap and all. Whereas if you are running long chain the coyote is pulling away from the trap and has too much chain to pull directly up on the stake.
Looking for a vid on putting the stakes in the ground.
Paint your driver rod a bright color or two (I prefer crimson red and chrome ) that way it is easy to find.
I just wanted to say thank you. I am new to trapping and I fell into the trap (pun intended) of just purchasing a bunch of traps as I go "Thinking I am all set and ready to go come trapping season." Then when it gets hear I start wondering how am I going to anchor these traps so they do not run off with my trap. Next thing I know I am struggling to decide what method I want to use, then of course, not one single store carries any anchors. Now I have to order on line and wait of pieces and parts to come in. Now I am way behind the 8 ball, and prime time is past. I wish all the pro trappers that put out videos would have said what you did. And because I am new and want to understand what I am doing I had to delay in order parts, etc. to make sure I had the correct tools for the job. IE: Cable thickness, ferrells, swivels, etc. etc. I wish the stores would take note. If you want to promote the trapping sport to the younger person, and just have traps at the store and send them on their way, they will not do it very long. Not one store in my area has proper anchors, but they sure do sell traps. Hardware stores do not carry the proper cable wire, and no ferrels, locks, swivels, etc. at the same store. I could go on but as you can see the frustration I am feeling now. You are spot on. Love your videos and very educational. The hard work you put into making them shows in the quality of your work. Peace, Mo
How far do you drive the anchor into the ground. I'm in Kentucky it is the same ground as middle Tennessee where I grew up trapping.
I never understood how those cable stakes work
Do you now after watching the video?
Coyote Trapping School After watching a few I got the idea. Pretty clever design
Ok thank you very much! Love your videos!
You bet, Thanks!
What are your thoughts on using a cable with a loop on the end for your dogproofs? And just putting the trap through the loop around the base of a tree? Thinking about trying that this season
That is the ticket, especially for DPs
How much time do you give your set to catch a coyote before relocating?
C Harrheel I like to leave my traps set 1-2 weeks. I don't often leave traps for more than 2 weeks
50 years ago the most popular stake was a 3/8 steel rod with a broad head welded on the bottom. It was about 16 inches long and, if I remember correctly, it had an s-hook acting as a swivel. In 20 years of trapping the Adirondacks, I never lost one???
Is a deflector rod necessary on a drag?
I wouldn't say its necessary, but has its benefits. The main point of a deflector rod is to keep your chain from getting hung up on or around the drag. Some drags are made with a flat top, which seems to leave little opportunity for it to hand up but some drags are made out of bent rod and have a nice little V that the chain could easily slip into and get hung up. Truthfully I've never really used drags so I can't say from experience but seems like it would be a good thing to have but not an absolute necessity.
Do you have a website where we can email you? Getting started and will have a lot of questions and coyotes.
Check out www.coyotetrappingschool.com and go to the resources page. This should help. My email is there too, kris@coyotetrappingschool.com.
So can i use rebar stakes for coyote traping?
Absolutely, just need to make sure you are using the appropriate size for your ground, if you're in soft sandy ground you probably want to use 2 stakes and cross stake them. In firm ground using a single rebar stake with a couple feet of trap chain should work just fine
Will a stake and a short chain be expected to hold a coyote
What kind of stake you talking? I run short chain on my traps with earth anchors, no problem.
Coyote Trapping School I’m talking about just a rebar stake attached to a short chain no earth anchor
Typically with rebar longer chain is recommended, unless you're cross staking in hard ground. The reason being if you're single staking with short chain, the short chain doesn't give the coyote alot of options for pulling so there is a good chance he may pull straight up, which depending on ground conditions could pull the stake up slightly. If that happens the swivel then slides back down to ground level when he lets up and if he continues doing that the stake slowly gets "jacked" up and out of the ground and you lose your coyote, trap and all. Whereas if you are running long chain the coyote is pulling away from the trap and has too much chain to pull directly up on the stake.
TREES! Don't forget at times there's a pretty strong tree you can put though the loop and anchor it